Hi Chuck , somebody once suggested giving the Belt surface a coating of Olive Oil first before applying the dye . Would you concur with that option ? If so ,could I use Neatsfoot Oil instead. I see your using Fiebings Leather Balm as a finish coat. I was going to use Fiebings Tan Kote or Resolene . Is there much difference between them all ,or do you favor leather Balm ?
Hi Tom, We have a video showing the different top coats if you'd like to check that out. It's mostly up to personal preference and what works for you. We'll link it below. As far as the olive oil, I don't recommend it but. I'm just not a fan of adding a lot of oil to leather. I do know some people always do this because it's supposed to help the dye absorb more evenly but I dip dye most of my items and haven't had any issues with that. If anything, I'll do a very light coat of Neatsfoot oil after dyeing. I would say test it out and see if you like the results, just be careful to not oversaturate the leather with oil. ua-cam.com/video/8HtcBgkeQpg/v-deo.html
So pro dye won't bleed onto shirts if someone sweats? I do a ton of ren faires and people seat a ton and wear a belts over white shirts. Thank you in advance for all the good info! Love the videos!
Hello, Pro Dye will have little to no bleeding. What causes bleeding is powder stuff dye base and that tends to sit on the leather surface when dyed. Pro Dye is oil based and sinks into the leather instead of sitting on the surface.
Hey, love the videos, just working on my first belt now and they've been a huge help. Quick questions with the leather balm, did you apply to the inside of the belt also? And you said this isnt really a sealant, would you advise putting resolene on top after the balm? Irish weather can be rainy so worried about rub off. Thank you for all the video help, really made getting started so much easier in the craft, Cian.
Hi Cian, Very cool! I am so glad the videos are working for you! Yes, you can put the Leather Balm on the flesh side and it’s, actually, a very good idea to prevent rub-off. As sealants go there are all kinds of products that can help, but, the Balm will give you some good protection.
@@WeaverLeatherSupply thanks so much, the project is coming along great, first bit of serious tooling I've done and I can't be happier. Time to finish!
I purchased some fiebings edge ink and it contains xylol..... soon as I opened it I got a whiff and it smelled identical to pipeline primer ( butyl acetate) and fly hook head cement (toluene )... so 3 different solvents with the same smell ,break down bonding action and hard drying glass finish.... nail polish is ethyl acetate but comes in many colors... not pointing this question at dirextly at ya chuck ,, just curious if I could use nail polish as a edge dye after its burnished with water and tokonole?(no clue what that's made of) Also debating wallpaper glue (methylcellulose) with tattoo ink (alcohol, witch hazel, glycol and colour pigments on different variations) Just wanna add color that dosent just soak into the edges , mostly for chrom wallets and purses... ladies love colors
Hi Chuck! You are awesome and thank you for all of your helpful videos. My question is about rub off. I use ProDye and I've had rub off every time. But I also used Neatsfoot oil to condition the leather after I died it. I didn't consider this dye has oil and online everybody suggest to oil or condition the leather after dyeing. But, I've had rub off. I was assuming the extra oil was the problem and now listening to you on this video I think my assumption is correct. On a double layered belt with the grain side facing out on both sides of the belt - is that going to rub off if I use the ProDye and don't use Neatsfoot? As I said, I previously used Neatsfoot to re-oil the leather after dyeing and I am thinking that was the problem, but I have been using the ProDye and I did have rub off. Thank you!
Hi there, are you adding a top coat to the leather after dyeing it? We would recommend buffing the leather with a cotton rag after the dye has dried, if you are oiling it - use a very, very light coat and let that dry and soak in and then add a top coat to seal the dye in. Leather is porous so if the leather is getting any type of moisture there is a chance of ruboff but if you follow the steps above this will give you the best outcome of not rubbing off. If you are not oiling the piece, then follow these steps: Dye, let dry completely, buff with a clean cotton cloth, apply top coat and let dry.
Thank you! I greatly appreciate it. I think I had over oiled it. Been a while since the experience but I'm back into leathercraft for real now and I greatly appreciate all of the videos, questions and comments! @@WeaverLeatherSupply
@weaver leather supply it may not work but I was thinking I'd like to have the areas that were sta.ped dyed in turquoise or red. Is there a video that would show how to dye the belt one color and these sections in another?
I happen to have an airbrush, absolutely going to use it for my leather work now! I have different guns for different things. Makeup, painting, and now j need one for my dyes!
That's awesome! Yes, an airbrush will give you great results. You can also use Angelus paints in the airbrush as long as you thin it down and paint your leather.
Okay. Couldn't quite find it and tired of wondering... What does he keep saying with the dyes? Oil based dye "???" and powder based dye "???" Is he saying stock?
I'm having such a difficult time dying leather. Super Shene. Resolene, Leather Balm, even tried Neatsfoot, and Mink oil as a last resort, and there is rub off!! Sometimes I can get a solid seal, but the leather will be left with a unwanted high gloss. I will let the dye dry overnight and rub off before I seal, but it still bleeds. I know I'm doing something wrong, but just can't pinpoint it. Im using Fiebings pro dyes, eco flow water based dyes, and regular Fiebings dye. I even sent an email to Fiebings and (shame on them) didn't receive a reply. Any suggestions on solving my problem besides finding another craft? Thanks, and I love your videos.
Hi Jerilyn, Yes, I think we all have that “I may just try another craft” thought because we all have this issue to some degree. It’s dye and there is almost nothing we can do to get it to seal completely without, like you said, too much gloss (or the top coat peeling, cracking, stiffness…). The edges are the worst culprit. The regular dye is notorious for rub-off (powder based dyestuff) and the Eco-Flo, since it’s water based, doesn’t wick in like a solvent based dye. The Pro leaves the least amount of dye on the surface, so, see if this helps: In my shop I keep a cotton rag that is lightly oiled with Neatsfoot (very lightly so it doesn’t pool and I keep it in a baggie so it doesn’t evaporate) and I will rub down, very well, the panel front, back, and edges between dye and top coat. With the Pro Dye, a good rub-down (paying a lot of attention to the edges) and a good top coat on the face, edges, and back (buffing here as well will remove anything further), you should alleviate 99% of the rub-off. There are all manner of recipes for top coats that say “no rub-off”, but, we have heat in our summers, we have perspiration, we have rain, humidity…so, I can’t really give you the perfect answer other than to line the project and that isn’t always the way to go.
Oh well that makes me feel much better. I thought is was just me. Thank you for your detailed answer which has given me the answers I needed. I've also decided to include a letter in each bag I sell that has "Weather Resist Care" instructions. Basically this note tells the buyer to condition their bag every three months, and not to use in torrential rain. Thank you again, and I love your videos.
Hey there@@jerilynspaziano6330 Are you still doing leather? Ons suggestion is to not dye the back or to stitch a second layer to the inside and have a double layered belt with no dye on the inside. I've been having the same trouble. What I might try is stitching some pre tanned leather of comparable color to the inside. Good Luck we all need it I'm seeing!
What product do you us on back of belt to smooth out the leather so you can run it through the loops? Is there other dye product options that aren't so toxic smelling, with no rub off, and seems true to color of label? Maybe I am hoping too much for out there. Does anybody have any suggestions?
Hi there, Yes, you will want to use the same dye on the back of the belt as the front of the belt. Just make sure to add a top coat to avoid rub off. Hope that helps!
Hi, thank you very much for all your videos, you are great :) If you want to paint your edge with Fiebings edge kote how and when would you incorporate that in this whole process working with veg tan? Would you still prepare the edge the same way as in chapter two? I am not sure should it be apllied with a roller after or before applying leather finish ( balm, resolene, leather sheen ), and I guess that if it is applied after the finish you dont want to put a finish on the edges.....trying to make my first belts so i am a bit lost still :/
Would you apply a sealing finish such as resolene on top of the balm/wax for pieces that will be exposed more to water than belts (eg bracelets)? Thanks Chuck! Love your videos and Weaver.
Hi Tim, You'll want to use one or the other, if you apply Resolene on top of Leather Balm it probably won't stick. So, if you're wanting to use Resolene just apply that after dyeing as your top coat. Hope that helps.
I know this is an old video so you might not see it but you mentioned the pro dye doesn’t harden up the leather or make it darker with every pass but I’m having both of those problems. Any ideas why that is? I’m using fiebings pro dye. Thanks for any feedback
I was wondering if you could help me with a sticky guitar strap? I just started working with leather. I used a water based dye, then Fieblings pro resist, then Fieblings leather balm with atom wax. It’s really sticky. Is there anything I can do to remedy that? Thanks for all the videos. Mike
Hi Michael, About the only thing you can do to remove the top coat would be to use a deglazer. I would say use either the Pro Resist or the Leather Balm, not both. They are both top coats and either one will serve as a sealer. The only time you would use both is if you have a tooled piece of leather, you can use Pro Resist, then Antique and then Leather Balm. You could try buffing it with a cloth before using deglazer but if that doesn't work, I would just go with the deglazer. Hope that helps.
Hello, Sorry, we missed your question. Most times we would seal before antique, but in this case, it just gives the leather a little darker brown color and still highlights the tooling.
Hi Antonio, It all depends on whether the leather belly came from quality tannage, cheaper leather may not dye as evenly as a side of good quality leather but Pro Dye will be your best option for even coverage.
Hi Kyle, The only time you need to deglaze is on some imported natural veg tan hides there is a shiny "glaze". If that is present, then using a deglazer first will help get a more even dye. Otherwise, you shouldn't have to do anything to the leather before dying. Hope this helps!
We have pro dye and with just one pass it ends up way to dark and not the color at all that it shows on bottle. We don't like it and are looking for another product.
Hi Charles, The light brown dye won't lighten the belt if it is already a dark brown color if that is what you are looking to do. You shouldn't have any issues with dying it but if anything it will darken it more. Hope that helps!
@@charlesthrasher1761, I'm sorry to say but unfortunately, there is not a good way to lighten leather that I am aware of. Even a deglazer will only take the top coat off of the leather but it won't take any of the dye off. You could paint it but that will give it a completely different look. I'm sorry I don't have a better answer for you!
It’s a shame that the pro dye is not available in California due to our weird environmental laws. It would help those of us unable to get this product to get tips on using low voc dyes and water based dyes.😊
FOR DURability!!!!!! Do you Soak it in WATER . or Anything else added with WATER??? trying to look up . conditioning of leather belts??? No topics on youtube when im searching for a solution to soften the belt , rather than it being stiff as can be. ?
Hi there, We wouldn't recommend soaking it in water, otherwise it will mold to the shape you dry it in. the best way to soften leather is just daily use and wear. You can condition it but if it's a firm and stiff piece of leather it will take some time to get it to soften up.
This series has been SOOO educational and helpful! Thank you!
Thank you, Nick!
Thanks Chuck great color combination. Since this will be my first belt for my husband I will know he will like the coloring..
Thank you! Hope it turns out great!
Love tutorial videos, kinda my thing, keep them coming! I use a sponge to apply, but should try dip die for smaller work as well!
Thanks so much!
I would love to see the entire process or refinishing a leather jacket.
Thanks! Looking forward to the next chapter.
Thank you!
You should be able to view the entire series here: ua-cam.com/video/UY0uRdm5lEk/v-deo.html
Hi Chuck , somebody once suggested giving the Belt surface a coating of Olive Oil first before applying the dye . Would you concur with that option ? If so ,could I use Neatsfoot Oil instead.
I see your using Fiebings Leather Balm as a finish coat. I was going to use Fiebings Tan Kote or Resolene . Is there much difference between them all ,or do you favor leather Balm ?
Hi Tom,
We have a video showing the different top coats if you'd like to check that out. It's mostly up to personal preference and what works for you. We'll link it below.
As far as the olive oil, I don't recommend it but. I'm just not a fan of adding a lot of oil to leather. I do know some people always do this because it's supposed to help the dye absorb more evenly but I dip dye most of my items and haven't had any issues with that. If anything, I'll do a very light coat of Neatsfoot oil after dyeing. I would say test it out and see if you like the results, just be careful to not oversaturate the leather with oil.
ua-cam.com/video/8HtcBgkeQpg/v-deo.html
@@WeaverLeatherSupply Thankyou Chuck, I value your advice.
So pro dye won't bleed onto shirts if someone sweats? I do a ton of ren faires and people seat a ton and wear a belts over white shirts. Thank you in advance for all the good info! Love the videos!
Hello,
Pro Dye will have little to no bleeding. What causes bleeding is powder stuff dye base and that tends to sit on the leather surface when dyed. Pro Dye is oil based and sinks into the leather instead of sitting on the surface.
That is good to know, thank you!
You're welcome!
Hey, love the videos, just working on my first belt now and they've been a huge help. Quick questions with the leather balm, did you apply to the inside of the belt also? And you said this isnt really a sealant, would you advise putting resolene on top after the balm? Irish weather can be rainy so worried about rub off.
Thank you for all the video help, really made getting started so much easier in the craft,
Cian.
Hi Cian,
Very cool! I am so glad the videos are working for you! Yes, you can put the Leather Balm on the flesh side and it’s, actually, a very good idea to prevent rub-off. As sealants go there are all kinds of products that can help, but, the Balm will give you some good protection.
@@WeaverLeatherSupply thanks so much, the project is coming along great, first bit of serious tooling I've done and I can't be happier. Time to finish!
I purchased some fiebings edge ink and it contains xylol..... soon as I opened it I got a whiff and it smelled identical to pipeline primer ( butyl acetate) and fly hook head cement (toluene )... so 3 different solvents with the same smell ,break down bonding action and hard drying glass finish.... nail polish is ethyl acetate but comes in many colors... not pointing this question at dirextly at ya chuck ,, just curious if I could use nail polish as a edge dye after its burnished with water and tokonole?(no clue what that's made of) Also debating wallpaper glue (methylcellulose) with tattoo ink (alcohol, witch hazel, glycol and colour pigments on different variations)
Just wanna add color that dosent just soak into the edges , mostly for chrom wallets and purses... ladies love colors
Hi Chuck! You are awesome and thank you for all of your helpful videos. My question is about rub off. I use ProDye and I've had rub off every time. But I also used Neatsfoot oil to condition the leather after I died it. I didn't consider this dye has oil and online everybody suggest to oil or condition the leather after dyeing. But, I've had rub off. I was assuming the extra oil was the problem and now listening to you on this video I think my assumption is correct. On a double layered belt with the grain side facing out on both sides of the belt - is that going to rub off if I use the ProDye and don't use Neatsfoot? As I said, I previously used Neatsfoot to re-oil the leather after dyeing and I am thinking that was the problem, but I have been using the ProDye and I did have rub off. Thank you!
Hi there, are you adding a top coat to the leather after dyeing it? We would recommend buffing the leather with a cotton rag after the dye has dried, if you are oiling it - use a very, very light coat and let that dry and soak in and then add a top coat to seal the dye in. Leather is porous so if the leather is getting any type of moisture there is a chance of ruboff but if you follow the steps above this will give you the best outcome of not rubbing off. If you are not oiling the piece, then follow these steps: Dye, let dry completely, buff with a clean cotton cloth, apply top coat and let dry.
Thank you! I greatly appreciate it. I think I had over oiled it. Been a while since the experience but I'm back into leathercraft for real now and I greatly appreciate all of the videos, questions and comments! @@WeaverLeatherSupply
Great video. God bless. From Glenn CATT in Massachusetts.
Thank you very much for the video. Everything looks to me easy and symple to do it. Great job!
Thank you so much for watching!
@weaver leather supply it may not work but I was thinking I'd like to have the areas that were sta.ped dyed in turquoise or red. Is there a video that would show how to dye the belt one color and these sections in another?
I happen to have an airbrush, absolutely going to use it for my leather work now! I have different guns for different things. Makeup, painting, and now j need one for my dyes!
That's awesome! Yes, an airbrush will give you great results. You can also use Angelus paints in the airbrush as long as you thin it down and paint your leather.
Okay. Couldn't quite find it and tired of wondering... What does he keep saying with the dyes? Oil based dye "???" and powder based dye "???" Is he saying stock?
I'm having such a difficult time dying leather. Super Shene. Resolene, Leather Balm, even tried Neatsfoot, and Mink oil as a last resort, and there is rub off!! Sometimes I can get a solid seal, but the leather will be left with a unwanted high gloss. I will let the dye dry overnight and rub off before I seal, but it still bleeds. I know I'm doing something wrong, but just can't pinpoint it. Im using Fiebings pro dyes, eco flow water based dyes, and regular Fiebings dye. I even sent an email to Fiebings and (shame on them) didn't receive a reply. Any suggestions on solving my problem besides finding another craft? Thanks, and I love your videos.
Hi Jerilyn,
Yes, I think we all have that “I may just try another craft” thought because we all have this issue to some degree. It’s dye and there is almost nothing we can do to get it to seal completely without, like you said, too much gloss (or the top coat peeling, cracking, stiffness…). The edges are the worst culprit. The regular dye is notorious for rub-off (powder based dyestuff) and the Eco-Flo, since it’s water based, doesn’t wick in like a solvent based dye. The Pro leaves the least amount of dye on the surface, so, see if this helps: In my shop I keep a cotton rag that is lightly oiled with Neatsfoot (very lightly so it doesn’t pool and I keep it in a baggie so it doesn’t evaporate) and I will rub down, very well, the panel front, back, and edges between dye and top coat. With the Pro Dye, a good rub-down (paying a lot of attention to the edges) and a good top coat on the face, edges, and back (buffing here as well will remove anything further), you should alleviate 99% of the rub-off. There are all manner of recipes for top coats that say “no rub-off”, but, we have heat in our summers, we have perspiration, we have rain, humidity…so, I can’t really give you the perfect answer other than to line the project and that isn’t always the way to go.
Oh well that makes me feel much better. I thought is was just me. Thank you for your detailed answer which has given me the answers I needed. I've also decided to include a letter in each bag I sell that has "Weather Resist Care" instructions. Basically this note tells the buyer to condition their bag every three months, and not to use in torrential rain.
Thank you again, and I love your videos.
Hey there@@jerilynspaziano6330 Are you still doing leather? Ons suggestion is to not dye the back or to stitch a second layer to the inside and have a double layered belt with no dye on the inside. I've been having the same trouble. What I might try is stitching some pre tanned leather of comparable color to the inside. Good Luck we all need it I'm seeing!
Can you add saddle lak on top of the leather balm
What product do you us on back of belt to smooth out the leather so you can run it through the loops? Is there other dye product options that aren't so toxic smelling, with no rub off, and seems true to color of label? Maybe I am hoping too much for out there. Does anybody have any suggestions?
Can you put a darker dye on a belt that’s already been dyed?
I wonder what dye should I use if I were to dye the back of the leather belt. Any dye that use for the front can it be used for the back as well ?
Hi there,
Yes, you will want to use the same dye on the back of the belt as the front of the belt. Just make sure to add a top coat to avoid rub off.
Hope that helps!
@@WeaverLeatherSupply Thanks Guru ! I enjoy your tutorials very much!
Hi, thank you very much for all your videos, you are great :) If you want to paint your edge with Fiebings edge kote how and when would you incorporate that in this whole process working with veg tan? Would you still prepare the edge the same way as in chapter two? I am not sure should it be apllied with a roller after or before applying leather finish ( balm, resolene, leather sheen ), and I guess that if it is applied after the finish you dont want to put a finish on the edges.....trying to make my first belts so i am a bit lost still :/
Would you apply a sealing finish such as resolene on top of the balm/wax for pieces that will be exposed more to water than belts (eg bracelets)?
Thanks Chuck! Love your videos and Weaver.
Hi Tim,
You'll want to use one or the other, if you apply Resolene on top of Leather Balm it probably won't stick. So, if you're wanting to use Resolene just apply that after dyeing as your top coat. Hope that helps.
It *pops!*
i ordered these products, but am often seeing resolene come up as something I need. any thoughts?
I know this is an old video so you might not see it but you mentioned the pro dye doesn’t harden up the leather or make it darker with every pass but I’m having both of those problems. Any ideas why that is? I’m using fiebings pro dye. Thanks for any feedback
When you dip dye can you put the remaining dye in your dipping container back into the Pro Dye bottle?
Hi Peter,
Yes, I just pour it back into the bottle using a funnel!
I was wondering if you could help me with a sticky guitar strap? I just started working with leather. I used a water based dye, then Fieblings pro resist, then Fieblings leather balm with atom wax. It’s really sticky. Is there anything I can do to remedy that? Thanks for all the videos.
Mike
Hi Michael,
About the only thing you can do to remove the top coat would be to use a deglazer. I would say use either the Pro Resist or the Leather Balm, not both. They are both top coats and either one will serve as a sealer. The only time you would use both is if you have a tooled piece of leather, you can use Pro Resist, then Antique and then Leather Balm.
You could try buffing it with a cloth before using deglazer but if that doesn't work, I would just go with the deglazer.
Hope that helps.
Interesting, no sealing before antique?
Hello,
Sorry, we missed your question. Most times we would seal before antique, but in this case, it just gives the leather a little darker brown color and still highlights the tooling.
@@WeaverLeatherSupply ah ok, thank you for the reply :)
@@prowokator You're welcome!
Do you ge the same outcome if you are using belly leather or craftman leather when you use pro dye
Hi Antonio,
It all depends on whether the leather belly came from quality tannage, cheaper leather may not dye as evenly as a side of good quality leather but Pro Dye will be your best option for even coverage.
Is it ever necessary to wet the leather or deglaze before dying?
Hi Kyle,
The only time you need to deglaze is on some imported natural veg tan hides there is a shiny "glaze". If that is present, then using a deglazer first will help get a more even dye. Otherwise, you shouldn't have to do anything to the leather before dying. Hope this helps!
@@WeaverLeatherSupply Oh so maybe that's what has caused the mottling on my test piece after using the pro/oil dye?
@@jj.1412 It's definitely a possibility. Worth a try to deglaze a sample piece and see if that helps.
@@WeaverLeatherSupply Well so far it's not in my supply cart yet, might as well add it lol. Thanks much and keep up the great vids!
When you burn leather, do you dye it before you dye it?
Hi Brandi,
You will want to burn it before applying the dye.
I've watched alot of your vids and thoroughly enjoy them.
But just to be a little funny I went to the website to check for painters tape....lol
Lol, maybe we should add that!
We have pro dye and with just one pass it ends up way to dark and not the color at all that it shows on bottle. We don't like it and are looking for another product.
I want to use a light brown dye on a dark brown belt .... should I have any problems?
Hi Charles,
The light brown dye won't lighten the belt if it is already a dark brown color if that is what you are looking to do. You shouldn't have any issues with dying it but if anything it will darken it more. Hope that helps!
Weaver Leathercraft yes I have a dark brown belt and I want to make it light brown . What should I do?
@@charlesthrasher1761, I'm sorry to say but unfortunately, there is not a good way to lighten leather that I am aware of. Even a deglazer will only take the top coat off of the leather but it won't take any of the dye off. You could paint it but that will give it a completely different look. I'm sorry I don't have a better answer for you!
Great vid. Thanks. I subbscribed and liked. Well done.
Thanks for the sub!
It’s a shame that the pro dye is not available in California due to our weird environmental laws. It would help those of us unable to get this product to get tips on using low voc dyes and water based dyes.😊
FOR DURability!!!!!! Do you Soak it in WATER . or Anything else added with WATER??? trying to look up . conditioning of leather belts??? No topics on youtube when im searching for a solution to soften the belt , rather than it being stiff as can be. ?
Hi there,
We wouldn't recommend soaking it in water, otherwise it will mold to the shape you dry it in. the best way to soften leather is just daily use and wear. You can condition it but if it's a firm and stiff piece of leather it will take some time to get it to soften up.
@@WeaverLeatherSupply okay . thanks for the info
Pro dye. Yep need to walk away. If I smell the fumes too long on that dye it makes me feel like I have a runny nose and congested lungs.