I really like this breakdown of disassembly.These axles are good axles but lots of parts. You have bin thorough where needed thanks for a great video and for sharing your experience with us! p.s I have bin a Toyota mater tech since the 70s and you did not miss a beat good work Mate !!!
On the locking hubs, to take them off turn the 12mm nuts loose until they are just proud of the stud. Using a brass punch, hit the nuts on the end and the conical washers will pop out. No dents to the outer.
Well I’ll be getting back to it here soon working through the COVID-19 pandemic has been a little difficult but many projects have been lined up so stay tune
Brifields or birfield? Nice recommendation on the rotors and calipers upgrade. Great notices and recommendations to make things remove and work properly. Could have made note to remove the soft line from the knuckle then remove the caliper when the axle is still attached to the vehicle. You really don't have to break the hard line to the caliper just to remove the caliper, this would also require bleeding the brakes and if that caliper is that hard to remove with those large bolts, guess what the bleeder will do... And such as you did, cut the hard line to the caliper as all this will be replaced at the upgrade. Would be great to toss into itsDeza's YJ to match the upcoming Toyota rear axle. Couple of ways, aftermarket axle housing with left hand drop setup, then transfer all the hardware over to that, still keeping the diff low-pinion setup (or upgrade that to the FJ80 high-pinion housing). Or use this axle housing and cut, rotate, weld the inner cup back in proper caster position. Then reassemble the housing. Or lastly, since itsDeza now has the 4.0l/AX15 trans setup, swap in a D300 on the back of the trans in place of the NP231 (they both will have the 23-spline input), add dual shifters, redirect the exhaust to clear the right hand drop tcase and front ds, and redo the rear ds to mate to the D300 yoke output. If you really want to get crazy, upgrade the D300 internals with 4:1 and 32-spline output shafts to go with the dual shifter setup.
PracTactical outdoors and things It absolutely is it’s a lot of stuff to take apart when you do have to maintenance them but they are very strong and ridiculously heavy
Hey thanks for checking back. I appreciate all of the work that went into crafting the video and not to mention the content it provides. People for years will be using this as a how to guide for Toyota front diff or axle rebuilds. I have an 85 and that is the reason for my interest. @@itsDeza
awesome video man one of the best ive seen question after bending back those lock tabs what do u suggest for gettin that big nut off mine isnt as loose as yours givin me a hard time longtime time youtube diy first time comment keep em comin
Great videos made the tear down on mine a lot easier today
1984 Toyota 4x4 bought it new.
This is outstanding info.
Many thanks.
PTL
Hello from San Diego!! Thanks for all your help!!
The land of rust free vehicles I’m jealous of your weather
I really like this breakdown of disassembly.These axles are good axles but lots of parts. You have bin thorough where needed thanks for a great video and for sharing your experience with us!
p.s I have bin a Toyota mater tech since the 70s and you did not miss a beat good work Mate !!!
Thanks man !!
Love these videos. Reminds me of how power nation used to be on saturday mornings! I dont even own a toyota...
Samwho? Lol thanks man
On the locking hubs, to take them off turn the 12mm nuts loose until they are just proud of the stud. Using a brass punch, hit the nuts on the end and the conical washers will pop out. No dents to the outer.
I never thought of that that’s a really good idea or you basically just flexing the stud to shoot out the conical?
brilliant absolutely brilliant content, keep em coming henry, many thanks
Well I’ll be getting back to it here soon working through the COVID-19 pandemic has been a little difficult but many projects have been lined up so stay tune
Brifields or birfield?
Nice recommendation on the rotors and calipers upgrade.
Great notices and recommendations to make things remove and work properly. Could have made note to remove the soft line from the knuckle then remove the caliper when the axle is still attached to the vehicle. You really don't have to break the hard line to the caliper just to remove the caliper, this would also require bleeding the brakes and if that caliper is that hard to remove with those large bolts, guess what the bleeder will do... And such as you did, cut the hard line to the caliper as all this will be replaced at the upgrade.
Would be great to toss into itsDeza's YJ to match the upcoming Toyota rear axle. Couple of ways, aftermarket axle housing with left hand drop setup, then transfer all the hardware over to that, still keeping the diff low-pinion setup (or upgrade that to the FJ80 high-pinion housing). Or use this axle housing and cut, rotate, weld the inner cup back in proper caster position. Then reassemble the housing. Or lastly, since itsDeza now has the 4.0l/AX15 trans setup, swap in a D300 on the back of the trans in place of the NP231 (they both will have the 23-spline input), add dual shifters, redirect the exhaust to clear the right hand drop tcase and front ds, and redo the rear ds to mate to the D300 yoke output. If you really want to get crazy, upgrade the D300 internals with 4:1 and 32-spline output shafts to go with the dual shifter setup.
Michael Moran That is excellent and knowledgeable information That clearly experience has taught you thank you so much for sharing
@@henryitsdeza5553 Been doing it since about 10ish with mags in the 70s...been wheeling for 30+yrs now...
Thank you for both tutorial videos part #1 #2
Awesome video guys!
Hide & Horns Outdoors Thanks man We appreciate it
Tapping the stubs with a brass hammer is way easier to take out the cone washers.
Vary interesting axil design
PracTactical outdoors and things It absolutely is it’s a lot of stuff to take apart when you do have to maintenance them but they are very strong and ridiculously heavy
I´m doing Tequila shots to ¨Brifield¨ great video BTW
😂😂
Great vid cant wait to see final product But that is one funky bracket welded on I guess for stabilizer ?
great info
Thanks!
Hey thanks for checking back. I appreciate all of the work that went into crafting the video and not to mention the content it provides. People for years will be using this as a how to guide for Toyota front diff or axle rebuilds.
I have an 85 and that is the reason for my interest. @@itsDeza
I got 2 of these to do and just wanna give you a virtual shot of Hennessy or three. Thanks so much
Accepted! Hahaha good luck!
Great informative clip. My question: the knuckle on my 74 fj40 has no caliper bracket. What knuckle can I use.
Birfield not Brifield
You are correct
😀
awesome video man one of the best ive seen question after bending back those lock tabs what do u suggest for gettin that big nut off mine isnt as loose as yours givin me a hard time longtime time youtube diy first time comment keep em comin
Let’s play a game! How many times can he say “ CONICAL”? And it’s BIRFIELD not BRIFIELD!
Next video 4.88 in dana 30/35
I do have some 4.88s in a box for my TJ project.. 🤔
All those parts bathed in grease still look brand new! Where do you find newly made Toyota Pickup parts?
The Old grease kept them safe But most of the parts can be found online
need better description is this off 1st gen tacoma? 96??
This is for solid front axle Toyota’s. The Tacoma has the independent front suspension, so unfortunately this video won’t help you out. Sorry!
not too sure how this works honestly bare with me
😂
Hi
Hello