Thank you for a really good video. Just a couple of thought I picked up from Rotax training at Lockwood. 1) After inspecting the oil tank’s “O” ring for cuts and nicks, be sure to lubricate the “O” ring before reinstallation. 2) To ensure the oil filter fills and any air that may have entered the lines is purged, rotate the propeller (as you described) 30-50 times until a normal oil pressure is achieved. The easiest way is first to ensure the magnetos are off* (shorted to ground), remove one plug from the bottom of each cylinder (noting the cylinder from which each plug was removed) and manually or using the starter, spin the propeller. If the latter, remember to pause after 30 seconds of cranking and allow the starter motor to cool down, then repeat until a normal oil pressure is observed. Re-install the plugs to the cylinders from which they were removed and torque to spec. *Note: It is really important that the magnetos are both grounded. Otherwise when cranking, the engine will attempt to start and without the plug, the high voltage will discharge into the electronic module, damaging it ($$$). If you’re not sure, disconnect the battery and manually turn the propeller. Thanx again. Great video.
Great thorough videos. Few weeks ago I had the thrust washer fail on my 912iS at 1700 hrs. Found lots of plastic debris in the bottom of the oil tank, and some slivers of metal. I've now replaced engine for new one. During take off I had drop in oil pressure followed by spike in oil temp and surging of my hydraulic prop, landed without issue. Probably could have had gear box rebuilt and flush engine but I use for survey work so I opted to replace the engine.
Very nicely done! I like to paint small witness marks on both the oil filter and filter mounting so that I can visually verify their continuing correct orientation during preflight inspection. (900+ hours on my RV-12)
Very grateful for your clear and careful presentation. Could you present a video on how to avoid introducing air into the oil lines and how to purge the oil system if necessary?
Very well filmed! Loud and clear understandable and correct. One thing- really important with Rotax: you've forgot to check the magnetic plug!! It is of great importance and mandatory. If there are metal parts found, the gearbox has to be inspected. So unscrew the mag plug, visual inspection, clean , rescrew calibrate and finaly secure it with wire.
My Rotax powered aircraft was spitting oil today. Upon inspection, the oil filter was noticeably loose. Wondering if it was improperly installed or vibrated loose over time. Mechanic said the Rotax motor is the only airplane motor he knows of where the oil filter doesn’t lock into place. Dipstick reading in the middle pre- and post-flight.
1. Did you actually rotated the prop. 50Xs?? 6:39. You mention putting 2.5 lt of oil, then running the engine, burp, then adding the additional remaining oil, correct? How long did you run the engine for? Great video!!!!
Great video. I use Avgas as well, maybe 60%, I installed the Curtis drain valve and had a lot of trouble opening the valve. Luckily I did not apply excessive force or used a tool. Turned out my 2016 Bristell with the ULS has a modified shelf at the bottom of the tank which is curved towards the bottom, preventing the drain valve to come out. So in the future is it OK to just open the clamp a bit before opening the valve?
Great instruction video Jeremy. As there's very little space to catch oil when removing the Mag plug, is there any reason why it can't be removed while the Filter is removed? Thanks James.
Some great tips! Really good info on cleaning out the oil tank. I always learn something new from your videos. Looking forward to possibly seeing a carburetor syncing tutorial in the future.
That’s because he has this drain valve on his. When you remove the drain plug on the bottom of the oil can, you logically replace the crush ring with a new one when re-assembling.
Excellent video, but I have a question: why adding the empty filter and priming it manually does not arm the engine putting air into the system? Is not the filter filled of air when you install it?
The anti-drainback valve isn’t the reason you can’t fill the filter before installing it. It is because Rotax mounted it horizontally. On my cars that have a vertical filter, I always fill the filter before installation and all cars have the AD valve. My Chevy truck also has a horizontal filter that can’t be prefilled. It would be nice if Rotax used a cartridge filter like my newer Chevy cars. They are on top of the engine and much cleaner to change and you can inspect them easily with no metal can to remove. I hope Rotax follows the automotive lead and includes that in future designs.
The 825-703/706 filters Rotax used for years until 2010 could be prefilled, after adding the anti drain valve to the new 825-012 and 825-016 filters you could no longer get oil into the filter without installing it and manuelly priming it.
Jeremy Macgregor I don’t see how this is a function of the AD valve. All cars have had those for years and it is still easy to prefill the filter. You just pour the oil in the hole in the center of the filter. Sure, you can’t fill through the perimeter holes as the AD valve blocks those, but you can still fill the filter through the center hole.
I know what your saying but on the Rotax filters you can’t even fill thru the center hole, the most you can get in there is about 1oz if that. Typically on an oil filter you can fill it thru the center and allow the element to get saturated but on the Rotax Oem filters that is not the case, I personally liked the oil style filters.
Jeremy Macgregor That is odd. When you cut it open, I didn’t see anything blocking the center hole. Is there another valve there that gets opened when the filter is screwed onto the engine?
@@LTVoyager what Jeremy means is the filter valve is closed so that stops the air escaping which in turn stops you getting oil into the filter. My simple life hack is to use a syringe and fill the new filter via one of the small holes. Very carefully displacing the rubber valve . That way you can fill the filter to the brim and then quickly fit it to the engine with very minimal oil loss 👍✅
Thank you for a really good video. Just a couple of thought I picked up from Rotax training at Lockwood.
1) After inspecting the oil tank’s “O” ring for cuts and nicks, be sure to lubricate the “O” ring before reinstallation.
2) To ensure the oil filter fills and any air that may have entered the lines is purged, rotate the propeller (as you described) 30-50 times until a normal oil pressure is achieved. The easiest way is first to ensure the magnetos are off* (shorted to ground), remove one plug from the bottom of each cylinder (noting the cylinder from which each plug was removed) and manually or using the starter, spin the propeller. If the latter, remember to pause after 30 seconds of cranking and allow the starter motor to cool down, then repeat until a normal oil pressure is observed. Re-install the plugs to the cylinders from which they were removed and torque to spec.
*Note: It is really important that the magnetos are both grounded. Otherwise when cranking, the engine will attempt to start and without the plug, the high voltage will discharge into the electronic module, damaging it ($$$). If you’re not sure, disconnect the battery and manually turn the propeller.
Thanx again. Great video.
Jeremy is a great Rotax mechanic!
Well done, Jeremy.
Very nice Video, good explanation, very good part when you show the tools which are neccesary. Greeting Germany
Great thorough videos. Few weeks ago I had the thrust washer fail on my 912iS at 1700 hrs. Found lots of plastic debris in the bottom of the oil tank, and some slivers of metal. I've now replaced engine for new one. During take off I had drop in oil pressure followed by spike in oil temp and surging of my hydraulic prop, landed without issue. Probably could have had gear box rebuilt and flush engine but I use for survey work so I opted to replace the engine.
Thanks a lot! Perfect step-by-step process description! Go ahead!!!!
Both Part 1 & 2 Oil Change videos were great. I learned a lot. I look forward to more.
mate greetings from Australia. just came across your channel. great information and very well explained. look forward to viewing more content. cheers
Awesome, thank you!🙏🏼
Very nicely done! I like to paint small witness marks on both the oil filter and filter mounting so that I can visually verify their continuing correct orientation during preflight inspection. (900+ hours on my RV-12)
Very grateful for your clear and careful presentation.
Could you present a video on how to avoid introducing air into the oil lines and how to purge the oil system if necessary?
Excellent videos! Nice detailed description of the process
Very well filmed! Loud and clear understandable and correct.
One thing- really important with Rotax: you've forgot to check the magnetic plug!!
It is of great importance and mandatory. If there are metal parts found, the gearbox has to be inspected.
So unscrew the mag plug, visual inspection, clean , rescrew calibrate and finaly secure it with wire.
I believe the mag plug is in Part 2 :-)
Just started working these Rotex powerplants, good vid ,kudos to you!!!!!
Love to see a video pulling the gearbox and sending off for inspection.
Nice. I learned a lot today. Thank you.
Great video! Thanks for the step-by-step process.
My Rotax powered aircraft was spitting oil today. Upon inspection, the oil filter was noticeably loose. Wondering if it was improperly installed or vibrated loose over time. Mechanic said the Rotax motor is the only airplane motor he knows of where the oil filter doesn’t lock into place. Dipstick reading in the middle pre- and post-flight.
Excellent
SUPER AWESOME video series. Can't wait for you to come back to HI and do our annual again!
Great video, now I can do my oil change with confidence, Thanks.
Glad I could help!
Excellent!!
Thank you!
very helpful indeed.
1. Did you actually rotated the prop. 50Xs?? 6:39.
You mention putting 2.5 lt of oil, then running the engine, burp, then adding the additional remaining oil, correct?
How long did you run the engine for?
Great video!!!!
Great video very clear information
Very nice, thank you! If you did want to drain the oil cooler, what is the procedure to fill the system? 100 turns?
Very thorough!
Excellent video! Thank you 😎👍🏻
Very helpful video ! Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Very Well Done!
Well done!! Great help to me. Thanks Jeremy . It will be my 1st oil change on my Pulsar XP in Germany.
Thx nice video!
Great video. I use Avgas as well, maybe 60%, I installed the Curtis drain valve and had a lot of trouble opening the valve. Luckily I did not apply excessive force or used a tool. Turned out my 2016 Bristell with the ULS has a modified shelf at the bottom of the tank which is curved towards the bottom, preventing the drain valve to come out. So in the future is it OK to just open the clamp a bit before opening the valve?
Great instruction video Jeremy. As there's very little space to catch oil when removing the Mag plug, is there any reason why it can't be removed while the Filter is removed?
Thanks James.
Thanks for the insight, could yo do more?
Some great tips! Really good info on cleaning out the oil tank. I always learn something new from your videos. Looking forward to possibly seeing a carburetor syncing tutorial in the future.
I fill my oil filter with oil before installing. I think that’s the procedure now.
THX!!
TBoone
Don't use 100LL and the tank very seldom gets sludge. MOGAS in your Rotax!
Thanks
Anything different for changing the oil in a Rotax 915? Thanks for the great video!
What about the compression washer that came with the 912 oil change kit I bought from LEAF? I didn't see that mentioned anywhere.
That’s because he has this drain valve on his. When you remove the drain plug on the bottom of the oil can, you logically replace the crush ring with a new one when re-assembling.
Excellent video, but I have a question: why adding the empty filter and priming it manually does not arm the engine putting air into the system?
Is not the filter filled of air when you install it?
the new oil filters can be filled 3 times before installing. No rotating prop required
Thanks for this video !
Would you do that with every oil change ?
No not required for a standard oil change as long as the oil cooler and feed line aren’t disturbed
The anti-drainback valve isn’t the reason you can’t fill the filter before installing it. It is because Rotax mounted it horizontally. On my cars that have a vertical filter, I always fill the filter before installation and all cars have the AD valve. My Chevy truck also has a horizontal filter that can’t be prefilled. It would be nice if Rotax used a cartridge filter like my newer Chevy cars. They are on top of the engine and much cleaner to change and you can inspect them easily with no metal can to remove. I hope Rotax follows the automotive lead and includes that in future designs.
The 825-703/706 filters Rotax used for years until 2010 could be prefilled, after adding the anti drain valve to the new 825-012 and 825-016 filters you could no longer get oil into the filter without installing it and manuelly priming it.
Jeremy Macgregor I don’t see how this is a function of the AD valve. All cars have had those for years and it is still easy to prefill the filter. You just pour the oil in the hole in the center of the filter. Sure, you can’t fill through the perimeter holes as the AD valve blocks those, but you can still fill the filter through the center hole.
I know what your saying but on the Rotax filters you can’t even fill thru the center hole, the most you can get in there is about 1oz if that. Typically on an oil filter you can fill it thru the center and allow the element to get saturated but on the Rotax Oem filters that is not the case, I personally liked the oil style filters.
Jeremy Macgregor That is odd. When you cut it open, I didn’t see anything blocking the center hole. Is there another valve there that gets opened when the filter is screwed onto the engine?
@@LTVoyager what Jeremy means is the filter valve is closed so that stops the air escaping which in turn stops you getting oil into the filter.
My simple life hack is to use a syringe and fill the new filter via one of the small holes.
Very carefully displacing the rubber valve .
That way you can fill the filter to the brim and then quickly fit it to the engine with very minimal oil loss 👍✅
Dear Jeremy, any tip for my 912ULS getting oil pressure indication on G3X just after 2 minutes running ? Thanks
👏👌