That reminds me, I have a wonky thumb now, after using "inappropriate" starting methods on an old Briggs - Cost me a few hours in A&E that did! I also remember helping my brother to belt start a six cylinder Perkins diesel engine that was destined to go on his combined harvester. On that occasion the power source was my 1954 David Brown 25. It's funny how some engines need a bit of brute force to start 'em up after a long sleep, but start perfectly fine after that.
you need a wide flat canvas belt, much more surface area to transfer power from so won't slip. If canvas belt was still slipping, you could have turned the petter around and run the belt in a figure of 8 to keep lister rotation correct. Belt in a figure of 8 has more belt to pulley contact area so increases grip even more
No. That little air valve is stuck. Tried pulling it, tapping it. Unscrews but won't pull out as its on a spring. How can I free that off mate? Can it be stripped?
If you look under the carburettor there's 3 nuts if you remove them the brass plate will come off and you will be able to apply heat to both sides and tap the air valve up and down and apply lubrication they usually come loose.
@@NorfolkMancave That valve has to be free to move under suction from the engine, my D had been in a field uncovered for 40 years and I was sure I'd never the carb working again, oxy acetylene heat did the job on the mix wheel and the air valve, the spring even survived. Generally for a cold start the fuel mix wheel wants to be around 1/2 to 3/4 turn open, bit of a tickle on the floats, then crank and hold the top of the air valve down for a little bit of extra fuel, usually that's only for a second or two as mine usually fires right up, also the lightening mark should be at 12 o clock as the points open, the mark is around 2 inches (measured on outer flywheel circumference) before TDC.
That's just A suggestion and some information on products you could possibly give A try out on your videos. to see how much of A difference it really has and makes on those old-school types of small engines running and performances output is all I'm saying to you on that one. You might like it to.
Just don't use in fresh rebuilt small engines at all until after the initial break in first then you can switch it over to the klotz motor oil to use in your small engines.
try the choke on the engine if you don't know what it is you gust stop the air valve on the carb from opening by putting your finger in the top of the valve.
@@NorfolkMancave soke it with a rust penetrative fluid and gently tap it open then tap it closed until its free and when you tap it open make Shure you hit it directly in the centre so you don't bend it or snap it if it wont move try a little heat .also there is a spring in there too so if it runs better with a little pressure in it you problem need to give it a new spring also if you want to take it out completely under the carb there is a brass ring holed in with 3 screws around the valve remove that and you should be able to remove it.
It was great to see the old Lister bursting into life after all the perseverance.
Had to look twice , that extra hand .
You deserve so much more recognition for the work you do saving old machines that once built this world up such an amazing youtuber
Thanks very much. I try my best. You will love my next project. Keep watching out.
@@NorfolkMancave your voice is therapy for me
Great result....it won't take much to get it running continuously....well done mate
That reminds me, I have a wonky thumb now, after using "inappropriate" starting methods on an old Briggs - Cost me a few hours in A&E that did!
I also remember helping my brother to belt start a six cylinder Perkins diesel engine that was destined to go on his combined harvester. On that occasion the power source was my 1954 David Brown 25.
It's funny how some engines need a bit of brute force to start 'em up after a long sleep, but start perfectly fine after that.
Yeah carbon and gummy rings
The lightning mark should be at the top when the points open. There will be a straight line that identifies TDC which is about 1 1/2” further round👍
Nifty idea Adam, saves hand cranking.
Another great video. Keep them coming
you need a wide flat canvas belt, much more surface area to transfer power from so won't slip. If canvas belt was still slipping, you could have turned the petter around and run the belt in a figure of 8 to keep lister rotation correct. Belt in a figure of 8 has more belt to pulley contact area so increases grip even more
Awesome video, yeah you'll get it going
Nice to see it running there a big heavy lump
Love it, makes me want to get my Lister D going
Get the old D fired up mate.
Great work what would these engines be used for years ago
That Lister D was a good price, didn't look like it would take much to get it going!
You got a nice collection of caravan sitting off in the corner there
What happened to the old d please can we have another vid
Love seeing old engines back to life, just wondering if the air valve on the carb is free to jump up and down when the engine is running.
No. That little air valve is stuck. Tried pulling it, tapping it. Unscrews but won't pull out as its on a spring. How can I free that off mate? Can it be stripped?
If you look under the carburettor there's 3 nuts if you remove them the brass plate will come off and you will be able to apply heat to both sides and tap the air valve up and down and apply lubrication they usually come loose.
@@NorfolkMancave That valve has to be free to move under suction from the engine, my D had been in a field uncovered for 40 years and I was sure I'd never the carb working again, oxy acetylene heat did the job on the mix wheel and the air valve, the spring even survived. Generally for a cold start the fuel mix wheel wants to be around 1/2 to 3/4 turn open, bit of a tickle on the floats, then crank and hold the top of the air valve down for a little bit of extra fuel, usually that's only for a second or two as mine usually fires right up, also the lightening mark should be at 12 o clock as the points open, the mark is around 2 inches (measured on outer flywheel circumference) before TDC.
That's just A suggestion and some information on products you could possibly give A try out on your videos. to see how much of A difference it really has and makes on those old-school types of small engines running and performances output is all I'm saying to you on that one. You might like it to.
Just don't use in fresh rebuilt small engines at all until after the initial break in first then you can switch it over to the klotz motor oil to use in your small engines.
Oh yes I do live in Norfolk too that is Norfolk Virginia
When fitting the chain, do you know if the cam lobe should be in the 12 or 6 o clock position?
try the choke on the engine if you don't know what it is you gust stop the air valve on the carb from opening by putting your finger in the top of the valve.
That little valve stuck solid. Any idea how to strip it to free it?
@@NorfolkMancave soke it with a rust penetrative fluid and gently tap it open then tap it closed until its free and when you tap it open make Shure you hit it directly in the centre so you don't bend it or snap it if it wont move try a little heat .also there is a spring in there too so if it runs better with a little pressure in it you problem need to give it a new spring also if you want to take it out completely under the carb there is a brass ring holed in with 3 screws around the valve remove that and you should be able to remove it.
👍👍👍
Your only a young man 50 lol ,,,, cool 😎 what’s the water for on the green one ☝️
The water is to keep engine cool my friend. At the end of this video it was nearly hot enough to boil an egg.
What is the rally and I might bring my Peter a1 to strumpshaw
Game and country fair at Eston Park mate. Is the Strumpshaw one on this year? Thought they were both canceled?
I meant next year sorry