@@shadowxxe carry some braking cable and you are fine. Nobody denies that hydraulic brakes are better the question is if you need the extra power as a normal biker. A carbon bike is better than a normal biker but for your daily commuter you really can't use these advantages and get some additional disadvantages.
I think everyone already knows hydraulic brakes are superior in terms of easiness to use, and actual braking power. Just because mechanically speaking, it is easier to apply force by a liquid instead of a cable (at least without using pulleys), that is a fact. But yeah, I'm interested in terms of maintenance and every day usage, how one beats the other. For example, how annoying or different in frequency is to change the cable vs bleed the oil for each of them, if they change at all in terms of tuning up frequency/easiness, etc.
Simple truth: hydraulic brakes are better. The question is if you can get the additional breaking power on the street. I don't even missed breaking power with V-brakes. If you are doing downhill hydraulic brakes are better but for everyone else the benefits of hydraulic brakes are irrelevant.
The disc brakes system all we talked about is the clamping mechanism, if you invested a decent pair of pads and rotor there is nothing wrong with mechanic ones. The hydros are made to make money from the biker let alone the messy maintenance! I use both, and I find the mechanic ones are far, far much better than the hydro, its all about setting them up properly.
In order not to skew the results, you should have used: -compressionless cable housing (the expensive stuff with added kevlar) -the same overall lever ratio (including hydraulic leverage) -identical pad material Then, the result would be: Same performance, but hydraulics are cheaper. ;)
Both good. But one of the things that people forget is with the new move to disc brakes on nearly every mid to high end bicycle. The spokes have much more torsional strain on them compared to rim brakes. And then we have the grove worn in the rim with rim brakes... Nothing is perfect.
brake manufactures (the good ones, anyway!) use a bicycle dyno to spin the wheel up with controlled torque values before locking the wheel and seeing how 'far' the braking distance is. my fat bike came with mechanical brakes, and I'm going to stick with that because Shimano mineral oil freezes in not-too-cold weather, making the brakes ineffective. that's nothing to worry about in Texas ;-)
Good point Panda! I obviously didn't consider that as it was about 90 degrees when I filmed this. Do you know if it's just Shimano mineral oil that doesn't like the cold, or does that apply to dot fluid as well?
@@CobraKyle DOT fluid doesn't last very long and more hygroscopic - it attracts water. there's many types of DOT brake fluid, too, but generally they have a much lower freezing point.
@@BikingWIthPanda Dot fluid lasts for tens of thousands of miles in car brake cylinders. TENS OF THOUSANDS. Most people don't ever flush their brake system... EVER. Car brakes are much higher pressure and get much hotter than nine brakes. Using DOT fluid in a bike makes the longevity and hygroscopicity concerns inconsequential. Most brake manufacturers DO use DOT brake fluid, except for Magura, Tektro, and Shimano. The fact that mineral oil is not hygroscopic is really the only upside, besides it not being corrosive like DOT fluid is to things outside of the braking system.
It would have been better if you take brake test from constant velocity. Also please mention the disc rotor diameter for reference. Appreciate your work.
TRP comes with semi metallic pads(red) Shimano Deore M6000 comes with Resin pads. the Shimano pads wear fast, TRP/Tektro wear slower, probably not as good performance as metallic, but better than Resin for sure.
@@TvehX nothing, just sharing stuff I know, but not spamming it, just contribute where it makes sense. Nothing wrong with pointing out things that are wrong or giving advice or explaining stuff, that's the point of comments, I don't count my comments, I just contribute where it makes sense, and don't just spam or write pointless comments.
Should have used a fixed starting speed using a phone GPS or the likes. There are way to many human variables in the test to really tell us much. One of the biggest would be tester bias.
Unfortunately there will always be human variables. I could have gained two pounds between filming each test....my arms or legs could have gotten stronger....etc... I tried to make this test as accurate and unbiased as possible given the resources I had. I'm not sponsored or paid to make this comparison, feel I was as consistent as possible, and came to the conclusion that hydraulics stopped slightly quicker.
Cobra Kyle I agree but you could have dispelled most of the confounding variables by just hitting the brakes at a consistent speed. Yes I get it, you don’t get paid but as the saying goes, if a jobs worth doing it’s worth doing right. Right ?
With all due respect, Saying that " ....feel I was as consistent as possible" doesn't make it true, @@CobraKyle . I appreciate the effort, but you did nothing to make sure that you were going at the same speed, or were applying the same pressure on the levers or that you started braking at the same spot. i.e. You didn't use any "scientific methods". Google that if you want to provide pertinent information from a test like this. Thanks for what you did :-)
I got both, if the hydraulic fail I still got spare brakes. I don't want to have no brakes, just because all of the brakes fail on all of the bikes, I had that happen once, with m615 & 396 brakes, but got it all replaced under warranty with m6000.
@@CobraKyle I Got a Trek 3700 and I detest the old style rim brakes.... plus I have hard tack candy in my wallet as well. Need something budget but quality.... and LOW MAINTENANCE for ease of mind.
the thing with mechs is their effectiveness depends on the fatigue level and strength of the rider. brakes that get less reliable the more you need them are not worth it tbh. hydros are always consistent one tug with a finger and they are locked could save someone's skin if they are tired and not as alert
Unbelievable how precise and scientific your experiment was conducted! Results were well founded regardless of expectations. Personally, I didn't feel as though the difference would be so drastic, until seeing this. Kinda opened my eyes. All kidding aside, good presentation and I appreciate the content. So, hydraulic brake bleeding is tricky??? Maybe a how to vid follow up to compliment this vid??? I know I'd appreciate it... great watch man, definitely changed my mind, and influenced my bike upgrade list.
Spent many nights in the laboratory conducting this one! Bleeding brakes was not a fun task. I watched a few great tutorials and still didn't get the results I was looking for. If I ever learn how to bleed them proficiently, then I will look into doing a how to video, but until then I'm the last guy you want to learn from on that subject haha.
as long as there are two pistons and you can apply the same force, have same rotors, same pads, then they are equally as powerful. I used one finger on both, but TRP Spyke will be more tiring, due to firm return spring. so my fingers hurt faster, much faster, but it's possible to modify it, but it will void warranty, but if you get stronger hands fingers it won't be much of an issue I guess.
It's not that I was going harder on the hydraulics, but it was easier to pull with the same amount of force I was putting on the mechanical, and that's kind of the whole point. It takes much less effort for the hydraulics to stop quicker than the mechanical.
If you are racing, doing serious down hill or just want every last little bit of performance and are able to pay the price get hydraulic. If your an average cyclists/mountain biker on a budget and don't need to shave seconds, quality mechanical breaks designed for your application that are setup correctly will stop you just fine.
How are hydraulic breaks in the winter when its -20 outside? I live in Winterpeg Manitoba where it gets to -40 sometimes. Not biking in that though lol.
I live in Texas, so I'm not 100% sure lol. I've heard mechanical brakes are better in cold conditions because the hydraulic fluid can freeze in very cold conditions. I found an article with this quote that may be helpful: "I would basically rank things as such: Down to around -15F, hydraulic brakes will work the best; some may develop a sluggish feel based on the quality of the product. Below that, DOT brakes will hold up better, but below -30F, if you really need to ride your bike, mechanicals [cable-actuated disc brakes] will be the most reliable - if you can move your fingers enough to pull the lever." This was on velonews.com
With cable brakes the cable can also freeze in winter, if water gets into the cable. In this case you can still brake, but the brake won't get loose again. The same can happen with the shifting.
Im currently working as a Uber EATS courrier on my 29 inch MTB and it has mechanical brakes but to be honest I consider them dangerous for this type of work, they get loose often and the cable haa break on me like 2 or 3 times (thanks God during a flat Terrain and not in a emergency situation or downhill). I decided to switch to the hydraulic system for it's advantages, let's see how it goes :)
@@Buckeye_4_Life_ i love them :D those hydro brakes and the anti puncture mtb tires i bought for my bike are the best investments i have done to a bike
@@Masterglitcher567 That's good. I heard the hydro brakes can be a problem to deal with at times, unfortunately the bikes I'm looking at only offer the hydraulic brakes.
@@Masterglitcher567 yeah the maintenance part of it. And if your like me and don't know much about hydro brakes it's just something I would rather not mess with. Plus I heard they can leak from time to time.
I´m currently riding a cheaper bike that I got used with mechanical disc brakes and I hate them. No matter what I do, it always feels as if I´m squishing on a sponge, I already installed new rotors and pads, tried to adjust cable tension multiple times, it always feels wrong. Stopping power is fine from what I can tell, but it just doesn´t feel safe in the levers.
The problem with mechanical is the braking depends on finger strength (not a big deal for me since I'm a climber) and the cables might snap, the good part is you can change cables on the fly in the wild. The problem with hydraulics is maintenance and if your tubes snap in the wild then you are SoL but that braking power strength ratio is unbeatable so 1 finger braking gives you more control than the usual 2 fingers braking vs mechanical.
Mechanical all the way ...hard to break.. Work in all weather... No special equipment needed and if you tour your bike in a different country they might not have hydraulic replacements
you really would have to use a machine to test it accurately. you might turn sightly, your body might move slightly different, there are many variables. I stopped about the same, to me it seems like your fingers are just too weak to pull them hard enough. I had no problems braking in about 50KM/Hh, but the problem for me was the fatigue, from firm spring, but if that was not the case I am sure you too could have had better luck with them.
Now lets see how you set them up? were the pads 1mm from the rotor? on both brakes? were the wire tension perfect? did you account for wire stretching? was the wire clamped correctly at the bottom under the bolt? not at the top? 2:53 the front brake at least was. this makes the leverage different. I have tested both, clearly a big difference, but still powerful enough, you just need more force.
The TRP's were set from the manufacturer and whoever owned the bike before me. They actually felt pretty good when I took ownership of the bike so I didn't have to mess with the adjustment too much.
@@CobraKyle I always check, evry thing I do is to presision, also I run these an hope rotors, and on trp, performed well. A thing to remember is not all bikes are the same, or are the rotors, so with hope rorotors I had to set them up to nit kit the rivets, same for the deore, the deore I had to add fluid to cus had too little. I always check Avery thing, never assume evry thing is correct.
Based on this and my own experience, I don't think hydraulics are better or necessary, at all. They are less reliable, can't be worked on in the field, and unless you are going crazy over-braked ( 4 pot etc.) are not always more powerful (see early Avid high leverage mech brakes and Paul's Brakes, Growtacs etc. Super powerful!). As is often the case, comparisons are usually between good hydraulics and cheaper, low end mechanicals. My increasing opinion is that this is more about making money and supporting the expensive bike-service industry than any real or required benefit to the buyer - On my, Giant Trance, trail bike, I recently dumped the hydraulics for a good set of mechanical brakes - I can service and adjust them easily, they work easily well enough and are very reliable - and they don't overheat. You can now even get excellent hybrid setups that offer cable actuated brakes with micro hydraulic pistons at the caliper, offering all the benefits of both options. Buy for yourself and your actual needs, not for the marketing men or manufacturers profiteering practices. I think for most people the complexity and reliability issues far out way the, potential but certainly not guaranteed, benefits of hydraulics.
If you just need to moove around v brakes are good little to no mainanance required and if you are not serious about biking v brakes are good Hydraulic brakes need lots mainanance and you need to be carefull and ussualy for commuting to work you dont need hydraulic brakes
I made the contrary experience - my commuter bike (5k to 6k km per year) has V brakes, I have to adjust the cables estimated every 2 month. If the rim is wet, you have to brake the rim first dry until they start to work. 2 other bikes have hydraulic discs - they adjust themself, and as long as you don't get oil on your discs they work fine, even in rain, and they offer a better brake feeling, and the modulation is better. In will modify the commuter one to at least a disc at the front, at the rear it isn't feasible because there is no IS or PM flange. My hydraulic brakes didn't make a lot of maintenance until now, even if they are relatively simple Shimano Altus ones. The braking power is good in both times, with good pads in dry conditions V brakes also offer excellent deceleration.
I cannot find a fcking video that showcases different types of hydraulic brakes. I have hydraulic brakes and they have less power that my old v brakes. They are bled properly and setup properly,everyone just says hydraulics are better,maybe but which ones im not gonna spend 6-10 more on hydraulics just to be able to use them with one finger while on the v-brakes i used to fingers. I am quite dissapointed in hydraulic brakes but didnt tried high end ones andif you keep you cables lubricated they slide quite nicely not requering much force to use them.
simple cable Tektros offer no good brake performance. The pads are also not the best, they tend to make noise, even the resin ones. Avids ate better, or the Spyre.
Thanks for the video! I have a 2013 Trek mountain bike with mechanical disc brakes and Although I have had the bike a while, I recently realized that I can’t lock up my brakes. (Likely b/c I’ve been thinking about upgrading and did test ride a “Pro” series Specialized with hydraulic brakes.Wow! Big difference.) So anyways, it got me wondering if there is something wrong with my brakes or they are just inferior in general. I’ve already made some adjustments to my brakes, now will probably look to see if my metallic pads need sanding or replacing and might even scuff up the rotors with sand paper. Otherwise, this may be as good as it gets. Thanks again!
I saw alot people now using hydraulic brake......i and my twin sister still using mechanic brake on our mobot ebike.....we been thinking using mechanical brake on our front and hydraulic brake rear.....or both change to hydraulic brake will be more better???
Hydraulic are good if your going local riding. Mechanical are good for touring around the World 😃
just carry a bleed kit and a bottle of DOT oil and you'll be be fine
@@shadowxxe liquids. flights. nope.
@@ariffau just get a 100ml bottle of it then should be more then enough and it will get past security
@@shadowxxe carry some braking cable and you are fine. Nobody denies that hydraulic brakes are better the question is if you need the extra power as a normal biker. A carbon bike is better than a normal biker but for your daily commuter you really can't use these advantages and get some additional disadvantages.
@@shadowxxe smaller bottles are more expensive
I think everyone already knows hydraulic brakes are superior in terms of easiness to use, and actual braking power. Just because mechanically speaking, it is easier to apply force by a liquid instead of a cable (at least without using pulleys), that is a fact. But yeah, I'm interested in terms of maintenance and every day usage, how one beats the other. For example, how annoying or different in frequency is to change the cable vs bleed the oil for each of them, if they change at all in terms of tuning up frequency/easiness, etc.
Simple truth: hydraulic brakes are better. The question is if you can get the additional breaking power on the street. I don't even missed breaking power with V-brakes. If you are doing downhill hydraulic brakes are better but for everyone else the benefits of hydraulic brakes are irrelevant.
The disc brakes system all we talked about is the clamping mechanism, if you invested a decent pair of pads and rotor there is nothing wrong with mechanic ones. The hydros are made to make money from the biker let alone the messy maintenance! I use both, and I find the mechanic ones are far, far much better than the hydro, its all about setting them up properly.
In order not to skew the results, you should have used:
-compressionless cable housing (the expensive stuff with added kevlar)
-the same overall lever ratio (including hydraulic leverage)
-identical pad material
Then, the result would be: Same performance, but hydraulics are cheaper. ;)
Both good.
But one of the things that people forget is with the new move to disc brakes on nearly every mid to high end bicycle.
The spokes have much more torsional strain on them compared to rim brakes.
And then we have the grove worn in the rim with rim brakes...
Nothing is perfect.
brake manufactures (the good ones, anyway!) use a bicycle dyno to spin the wheel up with controlled torque values before locking the wheel and seeing how 'far' the braking distance is. my fat bike came with mechanical brakes, and I'm going to stick with that because Shimano mineral oil freezes in not-too-cold weather, making the brakes ineffective. that's nothing to worry about in Texas ;-)
Good point Panda! I obviously didn't consider that as it was about 90 degrees when I filmed this. Do you know if it's just Shimano mineral oil that doesn't like the cold, or does that apply to dot fluid as well?
@@CobraKyle DOT fluid doesn't last very long and more hygroscopic - it attracts water. there's many types of DOT brake fluid, too, but generally they have a much lower freezing point.
if it freezes you got most likely got water in the system, I rode in -11C without problems.
ive ridden and stored my bike with hydros in -40 C temps and havent had problems
@@BikingWIthPanda Dot fluid lasts for tens of thousands of miles in car brake cylinders. TENS OF THOUSANDS. Most people don't ever flush their brake system... EVER. Car brakes are much higher pressure and get much hotter than nine brakes. Using DOT fluid in a bike makes the longevity and hygroscopicity concerns inconsequential. Most brake manufacturers DO use DOT brake fluid, except for Magura, Tektro, and Shimano. The fact that mineral oil is not hygroscopic is really the only upside, besides it not being corrosive like DOT fluid is to things outside of the braking system.
I think that for the test to be more accurate you should start from a ramp, to have the same speed ...
It would have been better if you take brake test from constant velocity. Also please mention the disc rotor diameter for reference. Appreciate your work.
TRP comes with semi metallic pads(red)
Shimano Deore M6000 comes with Resin pads.
the Shimano pads wear fast, TRP/Tektro wear slower, probably not as good performance as metallic, but better than Resin for sure.
Why did you make like 4000 comments? What is wrong with you?
@@TvehX nothing, just sharing stuff I know, but not spamming it, just contribute where it makes sense. Nothing wrong with pointing out things that are wrong or giving advice or explaining stuff, that's the point of comments, I don't count my comments, I just contribute where it makes sense, and don't just spam or write pointless comments.
Isn’t the point kind of moot, because if you can lock up the brakes, they all have roughly the same capability.
Braking isn't all about out & out power.
The best brake type is the tree in front of you you stop instantly and reliably
Works every time lol
Agreed, absolutely no contest - it's just the whole death thing, so annoying!
Should have used a fixed starting speed using a phone GPS or the likes. There are way to many human variables in the test to really tell us much. One of the biggest would be tester bias.
Unfortunately there will always be human variables. I could have gained two pounds between filming each test....my arms or legs could have gotten stronger....etc... I tried to make this test as accurate and unbiased as possible given the resources I had. I'm not sponsored or paid to make this comparison, feel I was as consistent as possible, and came to the conclusion that hydraulics stopped slightly quicker.
Cobra Kyle I agree but you could have dispelled most of the confounding variables by just hitting the brakes at a consistent speed. Yes I get it, you don’t get paid but as the saying goes, if a jobs worth doing it’s worth doing right. Right ?
With all due respect, Saying that " ....feel I was as consistent as possible" doesn't make it true, @@CobraKyle . I appreciate the effort, but you did nothing to make sure that you were going at the same speed, or were applying the same pressure on the levers or that you started braking at the same spot. i.e. You didn't use any "scientific methods". Google that if you want to provide pertinent information from a test like this.
Thanks for what you did :-)
I got both, if the hydraulic fail I still got spare brakes. I don't want to have no brakes, just because all of the brakes fail on all of the bikes, I had that happen once, with m615 & 396 brakes, but got it all replaced under warranty with m6000.
haha brakes are important!
Looks like you've got the George Costanza wallet over there! I don't miss my old bike as far as braking goes...or as far as anything else goes.
I don't miss my Trek 4300 that much either haha
@@CobraKyle I Got a Trek 3700 and I detest the old style rim brakes.... plus I have hard tack candy in my wallet as well. Need something budget but quality.... and LOW MAINTENANCE for ease of mind.
the thing with mechs is their effectiveness depends on the fatigue level and strength of the rider. brakes that get less reliable the more you need them are not worth it tbh. hydros are always consistent one tug with a finger and they are locked could save someone's skin if they are tired and not as alert
"while all of us would probably agree that hydraulic disc brakes are better" Perfect example of why it pays to think for yourself.
It just depends on what manufacturer you get them from.
For example Shimano hydraulics aren’t as good unless you are okay with a lot of maintenance
yeah tektros are very damn reliable and SRAM is so hard to maintain you're going to spend more time bleeding the things than actually on the trail
Put a Gps on your bike and start from from a distance far enough away to cruise in a set speed that way the test will be valid.
Unbelievable how precise and scientific your experiment was conducted! Results were well founded regardless of expectations. Personally, I didn't feel as though the difference would be so drastic, until seeing this. Kinda opened my eyes. All kidding aside, good presentation and I appreciate the content. So, hydraulic brake bleeding is tricky??? Maybe a how to vid follow up to compliment this vid??? I know I'd appreciate it... great watch man, definitely changed my mind, and influenced my bike upgrade list.
Spent many nights in the laboratory conducting this one! Bleeding brakes was not a fun task. I watched a few great tutorials and still didn't get the results I was looking for. If I ever learn how to bleed them proficiently, then I will look into doing a how to video, but until then I'm the last guy you want to learn from on that subject haha.
as long as there are two pistons and you can apply the same force, have same rotors, same pads, then they are equally as powerful.
I used one finger on both, but TRP Spyke will be more tiring, due to firm return spring. so my
fingers hurt faster, much faster, but it's possible to modify it, but it
will void warranty, but if you get stronger hands fingers it won't be
much of an issue I guess.
Gotta work on those finger exercises!
@@CobraKyle I think they should have had lighter return springs so they were not as tiring, or offer several types depending on riders need.
Awesome and informative video. Thanks for sharing this!
I appreciate the compliment. Thank you for watching!
You can tell he went way harder in the hydraulics
It's not that I was going harder on the hydraulics, but it was easier to pull with the same amount of force I was putting on the mechanical, and that's kind of the whole point. It takes much less effort for the hydraulics to stop quicker than the mechanical.
@@CobraKyle oh ok it jus looked like that
If you are racing, doing serious down hill or just want every last little bit of performance and are able to pay the price get hydraulic. If your an average cyclists/mountain biker on a budget and don't need to shave seconds, quality mechanical breaks designed for your application that are setup correctly will stop you just fine.
How are hydraulic breaks in the winter when its -20 outside? I live in Winterpeg Manitoba where it gets to -40 sometimes. Not biking in that though lol.
I live in Texas, so I'm not 100% sure lol. I've heard mechanical brakes are better in cold conditions because the hydraulic fluid can freeze in very cold conditions. I found an article with this quote that may be helpful: "I would basically rank things as such: Down to around -15F, hydraulic brakes will work the best; some may develop a sluggish feel based on the quality of the product. Below that, DOT brakes will hold up better, but below -30F, if you really need to ride your bike, mechanicals [cable-actuated disc brakes] will be the most reliable - if you can move your fingers enough to pull the lever." This was on velonews.com
With cable brakes the cable can also freeze in winter, if water gets into the cable. In this case you can still brake, but the brake won't get loose again. The same can happen with the shifting.
Someone with wrist problems (carpel tunnel) could benefit from the hydraulics since less force is required.
Hydro brakes are ON or Off, I personally like to feather my brakes doing manuals or wheelies and prefer the feel of mechanicals on my dirt jumper.
Good hydraulic systems are certainly not on/off. Modulation is one of the main advantages and selling points of hydro systems.
All braking is dependent on an o ring that needs to flex back and forth precisely or you get back in your car scratching your head
I like mechanical brakes downhill. I can feel the force of the brakes
Explain please
Im currently working as a Uber EATS courrier on my 29 inch MTB and it has mechanical brakes but to be honest I consider them dangerous for this type of work, they get loose often and the cable haa break on me like 2 or 3 times (thanks God during a flat Terrain and not in a emergency situation or downhill). I decided to switch to the hydraulic system for it's advantages, let's see how it goes :)
How do you like the hydro brakes now..?
@@Buckeye_4_Life_ i love them :D those hydro brakes and the anti puncture mtb tires i bought for my bike are the best investments i have done to a bike
@@Masterglitcher567 That's good. I heard the hydro brakes can be a problem to deal with at times, unfortunately the bikes I'm looking at only offer the hydraulic brakes.
@@Buckeye_4_Life_ what kind of problems? do you give the hassle of changing the oil and give the hydro brakes maintenace?
@@Masterglitcher567 yeah the maintenance part of it. And if your like me and don't know much about hydro brakes it's just something I would rather not mess with. Plus I heard they can leak from time to time.
I´m currently riding a cheaper bike that I got used with mechanical disc brakes and I hate them. No matter what I do, it always feels as if I´m squishing on a sponge, I already installed new rotors and pads, tried to adjust cable tension multiple times, it always feels wrong. Stopping power is fine from what I can tell, but it just doesn´t feel safe in the levers.
The problem with mechanical is the braking depends on finger strength (not a big deal for me since I'm a climber) and the cables might snap, the good part is you can change cables on the fly in the wild. The problem with hydraulics is maintenance and if your tubes snap in the wild then you are SoL but that braking power strength ratio is unbeatable so 1 finger braking gives you more control than the usual 2 fingers braking vs mechanical.
It depends. On worldwide touring its better to have a simple mechanical brakes
Add your weight to mechanical disc brake for more stopping power yey godly combo for me
Mechanical all the way ...hard to break.. Work in all weather... No special equipment needed and if you tour your bike in a different country they might not have hydraulic replacements
Those are all very valid points!
Yep. Trp spyke are the mechanicals I've ever used and are pretty much on par with hydraulic
you really would have to use a machine to test it accurately. you might turn sightly, your body might move slightly different, there are many variables.
I stopped about the same, to me it seems like your fingers are just too weak to pull them hard enough.
I had no problems braking in about 50KM/Hh, but the problem for me was the fatigue, from firm spring, but if that was not the case I am sure you too could have had better luck with them.
I wasn’t impressed with the hydraulic
Plus sub consciously you were bias because you’d already committed yourself to the hydraulic brakes
Just bring bleeding kit for touring.. Who would do that?
I think mechanical is more reliable too you don't need any fluid maintenance etc. The hydraulic requires less finger force and initiates faster.
Now lets see how you set them up? were the pads 1mm from the rotor? on both brakes?
were the wire tension perfect?
did you account for wire stretching?
was the wire clamped correctly at the bottom under the bolt? not at the top? 2:53 the front brake at least was.
this makes the leverage different. I have tested both, clearly a big difference, but still powerful enough, you just need more force.
The TRP's were set from the manufacturer and whoever owned the bike before me. They actually felt pretty good when I took ownership of the bike so I didn't have to mess with the adjustment too much.
@@CobraKyle I always check, evry thing I do is to presision, also I run these an hope rotors, and on trp, performed well. A thing to remember is not all bikes are the same, or are the rotors, so with hope rorotors I had to set them up to nit kit the rivets, same for the deore, the deore I had to add fluid to cus had too little. I always check Avery thing, never assume evry thing is correct.
Can anyone explain why would hydraulic actuated brakes be better? To me it logically makes no sense.
Cable brakes are reliable. Can be fixed trail side. But hydraulics are far more precise.
Based on this and my own experience, I don't think hydraulics are better or necessary, at all. They are less reliable, can't be worked on in the field, and unless you are going crazy over-braked ( 4 pot etc.) are not always more powerful (see early Avid high leverage mech brakes and Paul's Brakes, Growtacs etc. Super powerful!). As is often the case, comparisons are usually between good hydraulics and cheaper, low end mechanicals. My increasing opinion is that this is more about making money and supporting the expensive bike-service industry than any real or required benefit to the buyer - On my, Giant Trance, trail bike, I recently dumped the hydraulics for a good set of mechanical brakes - I can service and adjust them easily, they work easily well enough and are very reliable - and they don't overheat. You can now even get excellent hybrid setups that offer cable actuated brakes with micro hydraulic pistons at the caliper, offering all the benefits of both options. Buy for yourself and your actual needs, not for the marketing men or manufacturers profiteering practices. I think for most people the complexity and reliability issues far out way the, potential but certainly not guaranteed, benefits of hydraulics.
Push left leaver then the right one
In racing when your hands fatigue...no question hydraulic.
You got uncle Rico’s song on
You should be riding about 40 mph to test
If you just need to moove around v brakes are good little to no mainanance required and if you are not serious about biking v brakes are good
Hydraulic brakes need lots mainanance and you need to be carefull and ussualy for commuting to work you dont need hydraulic brakes
I made the contrary experience - my commuter bike (5k to 6k km per year) has V brakes, I have to adjust the cables estimated every 2 month. If the rim is wet, you have to brake the rim first dry until they start to work.
2 other bikes have hydraulic discs - they adjust themself, and as long as you don't get oil on your discs they work fine, even in rain, and they offer a better brake feeling, and the modulation is better.
In will modify the commuter one to at least a disc at the front, at the rear it isn't feasible because there is no IS or PM flange.
My hydraulic brakes didn't make a lot of maintenance until now, even if they are relatively simple Shimano Altus ones.
The braking power is good in both times, with good pads in dry conditions V brakes also offer excellent deceleration.
Can brakes be interchangeable between mechanical and hydraulic for all electric bikes ?
I think hydraulic have long life than mechanical...
Thank you for sharing!
My pleasure!
I cannot find a fcking video that showcases different types of hydraulic brakes. I have hydraulic brakes and they have less power that my old v brakes. They are bled properly and setup properly,everyone just says hydraulics are better,maybe but which ones im not gonna spend 6-10 more on hydraulics just to be able to use them with one finger while on the v-brakes i used to fingers. I am quite dissapointed in hydraulic brakes but didnt tried high end ones andif you keep you cables lubricated they slide quite nicely not requering much force to use them.
Riding That bike much be torture
Lol sort of. It's not as sluggish as you may think.
Hydraulics for the win!
Tektro used to suck. Avids might be a more interesting comparison
my H290's have lasted 2 owners and 4 years with no bleed and still actuate fine
simple cable Tektros offer no good brake performance. The pads are also not the best, they tend to make noise, even the resin ones. Avids ate better, or the Spyre.
It's 2019.... Didn't realise mechanical disc brakes still existed.. Lol
Right? I avoid bikes that still have them since they probably cut a lot of corners elsewhere too.
I am downgrading to cable because I can't commit to the attention that hidraulics need
@@etooamill9528 huh attention my H290'S have been through 2 owners and 4 years and still dont need a bleed
@@shadowxxe Well mine are shit and need a bleed every three month. I am not going to gamble for a pair like your
I use mechanical on my Gt pantera sport. Enough for me
The Pantera is a nice bike! Mechanicals work perfectly fine, but I prefer the hydraulics especially on the heavy fat bike.
Thanks for the video!
I have a 2013 Trek mountain bike with mechanical disc brakes and Although I have had the bike a while, I recently realized that I can’t lock up my brakes. (Likely b/c I’ve been thinking about upgrading and did test ride a “Pro” series Specialized with hydraulic brakes.Wow! Big difference.)
So anyways, it got me wondering if there is something wrong with my brakes or they are just inferior in general. I’ve already made some adjustments to my brakes, now will probably look to see if my metallic pads need sanding or replacing and might even scuff up the rotors with sand paper. Otherwise, this may be as good as it gets. Thanks again!
Fucking lord.
Mechanicals all the way, got no patience for hydraulics.
There is no comparition 😡🤬😠You compare a super high end mechanical brakes with cheap hydraulic brakes 😃🤣
ride brakeless
and then smack into a tree when going 26 mph down a trail and break a lot of bones
I saw alot people now using hydraulic brake......i and my twin sister still using mechanic brake on our mobot ebike.....we been thinking using mechanical brake on our front and hydraulic brake rear.....or both change to hydraulic brake will be more better???