i dont know if you are aware that before you came with this "things" for me and a lot of people from the entire world christmas light show was just a dream and watching others show videos on youtube(of course because of the controllers prices),now thanks to you that dream become reality,in the name of all this people i want to wish you all the best,i take my hat off to you
Awesome! I have one little addition at 6:00 : When enabling Ethernet, I would simultaneously clear the Network name (SSID) field. Most of the time it works regardless, but sometimes wifi might take initialization precedence over Ethernet, which could lead to weird behavior as the code doesn't expect to have two working network interfaces. It is on my bucket list to prioritize Ethernet in such a case, and use wifi only as a fallback in case Ethernet is disconnected, but that is not implemented yet.
Just a follow up from my comments on my previous, I have got the WLED-AP Wi-Fi to work but the SSID Wi-Fi dose not show . The only way I can use the unit is via the WLED-AP local Wi-Fi.
I have a noob question. I have the Dig-Quad ABE. I am planning on using it with Xlights to run my show. My question is Do I hook the other end of the ethernet cable to my home network? or to the computer running Xlights? Thank you for the Dig-Quade ABE I used it with Wled for Independence day here in USA. We live on a lake and drove around with the lights on our UTV. The kids in the lake were very excited to see it. Thanks keep up with improving . I would recommend it to anyone.
If I’m very new to this and most of what he’s saying is a completely new language where would you guys suggest I start? I mostly just work with led bulb art projects but I’m trying to expand my knowledge in order to do more complex things. Thanks in advance!
Could you ever wireless control an ESP controller using a wall switch with zones? I have multiple LEDs in my kitchen but need to control them easily with a quick switch.
Great work, Any of the Wled options allows a random effect to play all provided effects randomly, or is it only one effect at the time effect, as some led controllers have this option, Thanks
Just purchased a QuinLED-Dig-Quad with ESC32 AE as pre assembled, I can not get the WiFi to work, can you give me any pointers what my be wrong with the unit.
After I tick "make a segment for each output" nothing 6 to the segment section.. any advice what is the issue.. I just received my dig-quad last week with pre-progam unit.
I bought a few WT32-ETH01 from aliexpress a few months back as when they came i realised they didnt have a usb port so not a clue how to flash them with WLED, it only has an ethernet port, is it possible to put WLED on these things?
I am running a ws2815 5M strip on a MEAN WELL LRS-350-12v psu. Do you recommend front and end loading injection and if so, would 12v injection be overkill or should I use a step down converter to 5v at end? Thank you for the informative channel!
I received my dig quad last month and wired it with my WS2811 (12v) and got the WLED to communicate with the controller. My WS2812 (5v) finally arrived and tried it as well but the board will not communicate. I don't see the WLED AP in my wifi settings.
Just curious, I flashed esphome onto the esp32 that came with my dig quad. I just like the simplicity of the inerface. Anyway I have connected exactly as your diagram and video shows to 3 separate WS2811 RGB strips. One of them on GPIO16 I can control with no issues having neopixelbus in my yaml. The other two strips connected to GPIO3 and 1 I cannot control. NO turn off, no variation in rgb. Any ideas?
Oh it's coming! I received the mainboard and CPU I want to use in the DIY Cloud backup series today and also some stuff for the HA-HA project but it'll take a little while to get the videos done. :)
I am using QuinLED-DIG-Quad located almost at 100 ft. away from the soffits. I using 18/3 cable. still having LED not functioning at all. How do I fix this? I am first time user. Thanks
I have seen in an older video with you and drzz. When you make your segments you had them grouped at 300 per channel. So you guys had segments 0: 0-150, segment on 1: 300-400, segment 2: 600-650, segment 3: 900-950. In this video you leave no gaps in the numbers. Just trying to figure out which way is better or if it makes a difference?
Since WLED 0.13 the interface has changed to do a lot more automatically so now you just give in the amount of LEDs which makes a bit more logical. Try it out!
@@IntermitTech Makes more sense. I just got a digquad external antenna from you site when it had a small restock. If finally came! Does it come pre flashed we’re all 4 channels are turned on?
Yes but that's just a simple default config, check this article and video here how to set it up: quinled.info/2021/03/21/wled-0-12-what-do-i-configure-for-quinled/
Good evening. I have a major question. Will the quinLED Dig quad will work with an external power bank? I’m wanting to do a helmet with full led animations and I wanted to see if is possible to run it with an external power bank? Thank you so much for your channel and your will definitely be buying couple of digquads
Sure, in theory that's no problem, most likely you'll only be able to pull about 3Amps from a USB port though and that officially already requires 2 pull-up resistors. Also maybe consider the Dig-Uno since it's much smaller in size and easier to hide in that regard.
@@IntermitTech then a 10k resistor on the ground would do the trick? Or should I power it with 12v batteries instead? That’s so I don’t have to use the resistor? Thank you so much for all your help and channel🙏🏻
Newbie with a more semi fried brain. But I'm still determined to give this a try. I ordered a Dig Quad with on-board antenna but now it seems I should have gone the ethernet route 🤷🏽♀️. May have to rebuy an ethernet Quad when stock is back. Do you recommend the fully enclosed power supply with a fan or the open power supply with "chicken" wire ? Did you ever make the video for power injectors?
In regards to power supply you need what you need. You'd first have to calculate your needs. 200w can generally be had fanless above that they often have a noisy fan. I have a power injection live stream here which takes you along to calculate everything you'd want to know:quinled.info/2020/09/26/power-injection-livestream/
I am in the process of planning my set up for a new apartment and was wondering if anyone can confirm my calculations and specifications or if I have overlooked something. I have 36m of indirect lighting planned which is a lot of power etc. I will be purchasing the following parts unless someone recommends something else: 36m ws2814 RGBW 24v 21w/m max on full brightness (probably won't be on full brightness all the time) = 756watts/32Amps 2x MEAN WELL NDR-480-24 - Each 480Watt/20Amp output QuinLED-Dig-Quad LAN Am I right in thinking that I can connect two power supplies to the Dig-Quad? The 30 Amps should probably be more then enough I think - Just if someone plays around it could go up to 40 max. Or should I better go for the Dig-Octa here? Are there any other things I should pay attention to - also in terms of safety? Also, my apartment is 6m long, so the strips will be a bit longer than the recommended 5m. Should I pull the power supply to both sides of the room or is 6m still enough/barely visible?
Please usr this guide, it will help you a lot in figuring this out: quinled.info/the-ultimate-led-strip-power-injection-guide/ You can never connect 2 power supplies to a single board unless you have really really expensive balanced PSUs (a special feature on the PSU itself).
I am new to this, but now have some Dig-Unos and Dig-Quads to set up as soon as I get some LED strips. I have the iPhone app for WLED, but would like to be able to configure and control the Dig-Unos and Quads from a Windows PC. What are you using to do this?
I want to do 500 linear feet of led on my house can I control my permanent led with those controls or I need something bigger my lay out is 250 feet bottom soffit and 250 top soffit. My central control will be 100 feet away from led strip.
What's the easiest way to connect ~1700 leds on 1 controller? I am using a digquad with power injection. Initially all of my leds lit up. Then after an update, it will only allow me to put 1500 leds on the controller. Is there a way I add the last 200 leds and set it so it looks like 1 segment? I've been trying to find an answer and I'm stumped. Thanks.
I’m new to this world and this was a very helpful video, thank you very much! Quick question, I have a dig quad with the ESP32-ABE ethernet board and have enabled it under the WiFi Setup tab using QuinLED-ESP32 as demonstrated, but am not getting the light indicators on the front of the Ethernet port. I tried it with leaving WiFi on and removing my SSID with no luck either way. When I remove it, the whole thing just disconnects altogether and cannot control it via WLED until I reconnect to the AP. There is an orange light, I believe power indicator, on the bottom of the Ethernet board but that is the only light I’m seeing on it. Everything else is working fine with the exception of the Ethernet port. Am I missing something or do you have any advice? Thank you again!
We all start somewhere! Come to the Discord server and we can do some troubleshooting with you (there is a #troubleshooting channel). If it ends up broken, no worries we just replace.
My Dig boards like the Dig-Uno, Dig-Quad or Dig-Octa do yes. Generally people have great results up to 5m/16ft and often up to 10m/32ft also works. For beyond that I have different solutions.
So I am waiting on 2 digg quads to come in from overseas and I would like to have the controller on separate power supply from leds themselves so I can keep power usage down when not in use. Can you show how to wire that setup please? Also when using channel 1 output for leds why can't I use output 2 for my power injection on the same sting of lights? I could change fuse out to a 10amp from the five correct? That would fuse both feeds for that string of lights on 1 fuse and keep the setup clean. I am using 12 volt led strings with approximately 100 ft. Length.
Hey, awesome! Yes, especially on the Dig-Quad it's pretty easy to use the vEXT setup, we're currently working on a re-newed article for exactly that setup, should be available soon! Regarding power injection, sure, you can use terminal 1&2 which use a single fuse. The idea has always been that if you had a single 5v strip you'd inject front and back from that single fuse (by changing it to a 10Amp fuse indeed). You won't make 100ft with just 2 injections though or you'd be running them VERY limited, but yeah. :)
Thanks for the quick reply and info. I am Going with 12 volt to decrease the amount of power injection needed. I appreciate all the hard work you have done to make the boards and keep them updated. I'm new to the led light community and I chose to go with your boards just because I like the content you and Dr.zzz put out for us new guys.. Thank You again.
I tried using the BTF WS2812B Fairy Light strip on my tree this past Christmas, and really liked the look. However, I've managed to blow out 2 separate strings from static shocks. Have others had this issue? Is there something I can do to the string/board to make it less static prone?
Why do you use 4 cables from the power supply? and then you connect the first pair, the red one to the number 2 and the black one 1. I only have one power supply (2 cables) how I should do it? What is the purpose of have doble input for power?
You run multiple cables from the same power supply to the board to minimize voltage drop to the board (which is the distribution point) as much as possible. See this video for the why and how: ua-cam.com/video/behbh8VqPTg/v-deo.html
Especially for 5v if you want to go up to 30A you want to minimize voltage drop and heating up of the wires at every stage. Power supplies have multiple terminals to accomplish this so if you really want to run 5v 30A it's recommended to connect with 2x 10AWG or at least 2x12AWG between the PSU and board. It makes it much easier (and cheaper) then running say 1x 6AWG.
Why is the Male connector on the supply end? Who has chosen that orientation? would it not be more logical if the supply side were female just like your Wall outlet??
You mean for the JST connector? That's just how the strips generally get made, it's also a bit of a difficult connector to call male or female since the strip side doesn't have the pins sticking out but that connector does go into the other connector, which does have the pins sticking out (but inside of the connector)
I have an ABE dig-quad board, I flashed with latest WLED but how do I get into the software to enable the Ethernet port? This is my first time setting one of these up. I pulled an ethernet cable in and checked my router but it does not see any ethernet connections.
@@IntermitTech I see the IP in my router network devices but when I try to connect to that IP I get nothing. Im trying to do this while still connected to the USB. Is that perhaps my problem?
It depends on the Amps you are going to run, if you are pushing more then 10Amps through the board out the various power injection points yes, it is, it will limit voltage drop between the power supply and the distribution point, in this case the Dig-Quad board. Especially when you are getting near 30Amps continuous, 2x set of 16AWG at least is no luxery.
Yes, no problem, you can go up to 2x10AWG in regards to what fits. Voltage always needs to match (so 5v LEDs get a 5v power supply) and Amps need to be enough, and more is fine. So if you expect 10Amp draw, get a 15Amps or 20Amps power supply (a bit over is recommended) and it's all good.
So there is a bit of a history there. The reason it's GPIO16 is because that mapped to GPIO2 which was used on the ESP8266 and when the board was ESP8266 and ESP32 compatible. My ESP32 modules are based on the WROOM modules from Espressif themselves and then there is no problem with that. But if you'd used WROVER based modules GPIO16 has functions tied to the PSRAM found in those modules which could create a conflict. Now while there is no problem on *my* boards since all are WROOM (no PSRAM) based, some other boards might use WROVER modules and then having the default for WLED on GPIO16 could thus create an issue. So for those technical reasons I do get why they would not keep it as default for WLED in that sense. :)
@@IntermitTech Great explanation, thanks!, so no reason to change an existing setup with one of your boards. I was just trying to prepare if there was a reason to move :)
I just want to connect my Ethernet Dig-Quad to the ethernet connection on my notebook rather than any existing router etc..can someone give me a link to an article as to what I have to do on Windows to make this happen . Many thanks
How can you add motion sensors to a project using a Dig-Quad and wled? any info would be most helpful, just ordered the board and looking forward to starting some projects
I actually ordered mine a week or so ago and it was delivered today... to the wrong address on the other side of the country. Guess I'll have to dispute the purchase. : (
Sorry which ones are we talking about? You mean having to remove the ESP board? It's to save on size mainly. But if that's of no concern look at the Dig-Octa, that should work better for you then I think!
i dont know if you are aware that before you came with this "things" for me and a lot of people from the entire world christmas light show was just a dream and watching others show videos on youtube(of course because of the controllers prices),now thanks to you that dream become reality,in the name of all this people i want to wish you all the best,i take my hat off to you
Awesome! I have one little addition at 6:00 : When enabling Ethernet, I would simultaneously clear the Network name (SSID) field. Most of the time it works regardless, but sometimes wifi might take initialization precedence over Ethernet, which could lead to weird behavior as the code doesn't expect to have two working network interfaces. It is on my bucket list to prioritize Ethernet in such a case, and use wifi only as a fallback in case Ethernet is disconnected, but that is not implemented yet.
Ah that's very good info to know, thank you! :)
Awesome advice :)
Great work, Any option for a random effect on wled, or only one at the time effect, Thanks
yes sir :)
is this the reason I hooked up my first ever DIG UNO EThernet version., It worked fine the next day it could not find it ?
You are a god to me since I discovered this channel !
Just received my quad. This was really helpful, thanks! I’m so late to the party lol.
Super nice work. Forget all other closed Software/ Hardware. This is the ultimative best.
Great video, really gives me a clear idea of what setup involves. I have this in mind for some projects down the road.
This video is perfect timing. Ordered mine a while ago and it's arriving next week. Can't wait!
Thanks, good timing. I just received my boards.
Just what I needed. An up to date video
WLED is the best. 👍👍
hi!! amazing video:) you need a special power supply for the esp32? im looking to use a 12v strip
Great video, finally sorted my segments!
Just a follow up from my comments on my previous, I have got the WLED-AP Wi-Fi to work but the SSID Wi-Fi dose not show . The only way I can use the unit is via the WLED-AP local Wi-Fi.
I have a noob question. I have the Dig-Quad ABE. I am planning on using it with Xlights to run my show. My question is Do I hook the other end of the ethernet cable to my home network? or to the computer running Xlights? Thank you for the Dig-Quade ABE I used it with Wled for Independence day here in USA. We live on a lake and drove around with the lights on our UTV. The kids in the lake were very excited to see it.
Thanks keep up with improving . I would recommend it to anyone.
Thnx! And yes, just hook both the computer and the Dig-Quad up to the same network and they can then talk to each other. :)
@@IntermitTech Thanks for your quick response.
A buddy and I ordered 2 Dig Quads with Ethernet and got the external antenna version. 🤷♂
Thanks for all your hard work!
If I’m very new to this and most of what he’s saying is a completely new language where would you guys suggest I start? I mostly just work with led bulb art projects but I’m trying to expand my knowledge in order to do more complex things. Thanks in advance!
Could you ever wireless control an ESP controller using a wall switch with zones? I have multiple LEDs in my kitchen but need to control them easily with a quick switch.
Great work, Any of the Wled options allows a random effect to play all provided effects randomly, or is it only one effect at the time effect, as some led controllers have this option, Thanks
Just purchased a QuinLED-Dig-Quad with ESC32 AE as pre assembled, I can not get the WiFi to work, can you give me any pointers what my be wrong with the unit.
After I tick "make a segment for each output" nothing 6 to the segment section.. any advice what is the issue.. I just received my dig-quad last week with pre-progam unit.
I bought a few WT32-ETH01 from aliexpress a few months back as when they came i realised they didnt have a usb port so not a clue how to flash them with WLED, it only has an ethernet port, is it possible to put WLED on these things?
I am running a ws2815 5M strip on a MEAN WELL LRS-350-12v psu. Do you recommend front and end loading injection and if so, would 12v injection be overkill or should I use a step down converter to 5v at end? Thank you for the informative channel!
Great video, thanks
I received my dig quad last month and wired it with my WS2811 (12v) and got the WLED to communicate with the controller. My WS2812 (5v) finally arrived and tried it as well but the board will not communicate. I don't see the WLED AP in my wifi settings.
Just curious, I flashed esphome onto the esp32 that came with my dig quad. I just like the simplicity of the inerface. Anyway I have connected exactly as your diagram and video shows to 3 separate WS2811 RGB strips. One of them on GPIO16 I can control with no issues having neopixelbus in my yaml. The other two strips connected to GPIO3 and 1 I cannot control. NO turn off, no variation in rgb. Any ideas?
Love the LED stuff, but was hoping on that more 'diversified content'. Too much LED lately:) I'll skip this one, but look forward to the next. Cheers!
Oh it's coming! I received the mainboard and CPU I want to use in the DIY Cloud backup series today and also some stuff for the HA-HA project but it'll take a little while to get the videos done. :)
@@IntermitTech good man! Keep it up bud
What guage wire should I use from meanwell to digiquad?
But of a sig Sauer flexvolt 20 volt 60 volt online up getting that done today I ain't no I was going to need it for my lights
I am using QuinLED-DIG-Quad located almost at 100 ft. away from the soffits. I using 18/3 cable. still having LED not functioning at all. How do I fix this? I am first time user. Thanks
I have seen in an older video with you and drzz. When you make your segments you had them grouped at 300 per channel. So you guys had segments 0: 0-150, segment on 1: 300-400, segment 2: 600-650, segment 3: 900-950. In this video you leave no gaps in the numbers. Just trying to figure out which way is better or if it makes a difference?
Since WLED 0.13 the interface has changed to do a lot more automatically so now you just give in the amount of LEDs which makes a bit more logical. Try it out!
@@IntermitTech Makes more sense. I just got a digquad external antenna from you site when it had a small restock. If finally came! Does it come pre flashed we’re all 4 channels are turned on?
Yes but that's just a simple default config, check this article and video here how to set it up: quinled.info/2021/03/21/wled-0-12-what-do-i-configure-for-quinled/
Good evening. I have a major question. Will the quinLED Dig quad will work with an external power bank? I’m wanting to do a helmet with full led animations and I wanted to see if is possible to run it with an external power bank? Thank you so much for your channel and your will definitely be buying couple of digquads
Sure, in theory that's no problem, most likely you'll only be able to pull about 3Amps from a USB port though and that officially already requires 2 pull-up resistors.
Also maybe consider the Dig-Uno since it's much smaller in size and easier to hide in that regard.
@@IntermitTech then a 10k resistor on the ground would do the trick? Or should I power it with 12v batteries instead? That’s so I don’t have to use the resistor? Thank you so much for all your help and channel🙏🏻
Ah no! USB needs a specific setup to tell it what to deliver. A simple 12v battery wouldn't though so that could work.
@@IntermitTech thank you so so much I wil go with them 12v then 🙏🏻
Newbie with a more semi fried brain. But I'm still determined to give this a try.
I ordered a Dig Quad with on-board antenna but now it seems I should have gone the ethernet route 🤷🏽♀️. May have to rebuy an ethernet Quad when stock is back.
Do you recommend the fully enclosed power supply with a fan or the open power supply with "chicken" wire ?
Did you ever make the video for power injectors?
In regards to power supply you need what you need. You'd first have to calculate your needs. 200w can generally be had fanless above that they often have a noisy fan.
I have a power injection live stream here which takes you along to calculate everything you'd want to know:quinled.info/2020/09/26/power-injection-livestream/
Awesome video
I am in the process of planning my set up for a new apartment and was wondering if anyone can confirm my calculations and specifications or if I have overlooked something. I have 36m of indirect lighting planned which is a lot of power etc.
I will be purchasing the following parts unless someone recommends something else:
36m ws2814 RGBW 24v 21w/m max on full brightness (probably won't be on full brightness all the time) = 756watts/32Amps
2x MEAN WELL NDR-480-24 - Each 480Watt/20Amp output
QuinLED-Dig-Quad LAN
Am I right in thinking that I can connect two power supplies to the Dig-Quad? The 30 Amps should probably be more then enough I think - Just if someone plays around it could go up to 40 max.
Or should I better go for the Dig-Octa here?
Are there any other things I should pay attention to - also in terms of safety?
Also, my apartment is 6m long, so the strips will be a bit longer than the recommended 5m. Should I pull the power supply to both sides of the room or is 6m still enough/barely visible?
Please usr this guide, it will help you a lot in figuring this out: quinled.info/the-ultimate-led-strip-power-injection-guide/
You can never connect 2 power supplies to a single board unless you have really really expensive balanced PSUs (a special feature on the PSU itself).
I am new to this, but now have some Dig-Unos and Dig-Quads to set up as soon as I get some LED strips. I have the iPhone app for WLED, but would like to be able to configure and control the Dig-Unos and Quads from a Windows PC. What are you using to do this?
Just any normal web browser (I used Chrome) will do that, just connect to the IP, done!
I have an esp32 s2, but I can't find a screw terminal to attach the chip to. Any ideas?
Thanks!!
I want to do 500 linear feet of led on my house can I control my permanent led with those controls or I need something bigger my lay out is 250 feet bottom soffit and 250 top soffit. My central control will be 100 feet away from led strip.
My master Quin!! Thanks, show us how to power inject using the board terminals please :)
Sure, I might do a new video about that at some point, for now make sure to watch this too: quinled.info/2020/09/26/power-injection-livestream/
What's the easiest way to connect ~1700 leds on 1 controller? I am using a digquad with power injection. Initially all of my leds lit up. Then after an update, it will only allow me to put 1500 leds on the controller. Is there a way I add the last 200 leds and set it so it looks like 1 segment? I've been trying to find an answer and I'm stumped. Thanks.
The screw terminals are the same usual stuff we get on Ali? I wonder how much amps can you push trough those ?
Yeah if you usr the ones from my hardware guide and make sure you get the ones with "copper feet" you should be good.
I’m new to this world and this was a very helpful video, thank you very much! Quick question, I have a dig quad with the ESP32-ABE ethernet board and have enabled it under the WiFi Setup tab using QuinLED-ESP32 as demonstrated, but am not getting the light indicators on the front of the Ethernet port. I tried it with leaving WiFi on and removing my SSID with no luck either way. When I remove it, the whole thing just disconnects altogether and cannot control it via WLED until I reconnect to the AP. There is an orange light, I believe power indicator, on the bottom of the Ethernet board but that is the only light I’m seeing on it. Everything else is working fine with the exception of the Ethernet port. Am I missing something or do you have any advice? Thank you again!
We all start somewhere! Come to the Discord server and we can do some troubleshooting with you (there is a #troubleshooting channel). If it ends up broken, no worries we just replace.
Aww... I left a long comment but it's disappeared. Anyway, love the boards. Wish you well.
Check the UA-cam spam, can't find it there either, sorry! Glad you like the boards! :D
Does it have any signal amplifier? And what is the maximum distance between the controller and led strip for data transfer?
My Dig boards like the Dig-Uno, Dig-Quad or Dig-Octa do yes. Generally people have great results up to 5m/16ft and often up to 10m/32ft also works. For beyond that I have different solutions.
@@IntermitTech Thanks for the response! "In my case, the distance would likely exceed 20 meters (65 feet). What would be an alternative solution?
@Beast6000jdjdieoeoidis using the Diff-Solo solution or the upcoming Diff-Adv, with those you can go up to 500m!
When are you guys coming out with a new Trailer Park Boys series?
If your three strips were different voltages could you just take the data feed from the Dig Quad and power the strips with their own power supplies?
Yes that is possible, make sure to share DC GND between all power supplies and that positives never meet, then it should work fine.
Can I use it with a five pin LED strip RGBWW I can’t seem to figure it out could be great with a little help😊
If it has positive and RGBW wires then no that's an analog strip and you need digital LED strip (so with a chip) for digital control!
@@IntermitTech thank you so much for taking the time to answer
Thanks, just received my Uno (quicker from China than expected, too)
Look forward to the huge expense in new toys ;-)
So I am waiting on 2 digg quads to come in from overseas and I would like to have the controller on separate power supply from leds themselves so I can keep power usage down when not in use. Can you show how to wire that setup please? Also when using channel 1 output for leds why can't I use output 2 for my power injection on the same sting of lights? I could change fuse out to a 10amp from the five correct? That would fuse both feeds for that string of lights on 1 fuse and keep the setup clean. I am using 12 volt led strings with approximately 100 ft. Length.
Hey, awesome! Yes, especially on the Dig-Quad it's pretty easy to use the vEXT setup, we're currently working on a re-newed article for exactly that setup, should be available soon!
Regarding power injection, sure, you can use terminal 1&2 which use a single fuse. The idea has always been that if you had a single 5v strip you'd inject front and back from that single fuse (by changing it to a 10Amp fuse indeed). You won't make 100ft with just 2 injections though or you'd be running them VERY limited, but yeah. :)
Thanks for the quick reply and info. I am Going with 12 volt to decrease the amount of power injection needed. I appreciate all the hard work you have done to make the boards and keep them updated. I'm new to the led light community and I chose to go with your boards just because I like the content you and Dr.zzz put out for us new guys.. Thank You again.
I tried using the BTF WS2812B Fairy Light strip on my tree this past Christmas, and really liked the look. However, I've managed to blow out 2 separate strings from static shocks. Have others had this issue? Is there something I can do to the string/board to make it less static prone?
Oh wow, interesting, I'm still using the same strings I got 2 years ago, so far no issue. Maybe work on it while the humidity is a bit better? :S
@@IntermitTech That'll work: I'll just set up the Christmas tree in August... ;)
Well, or fix the humidity at home. We had really bad problems with it too, kept zapping the GF so now have a humidifier which helps tone. ;)
Why do you use 4 cables from the power supply? and then you connect the first pair, the red one to the number 2 and the black one 1. I only have one power supply (2 cables) how I should do it?
What is the purpose of have doble input for power?
You run multiple cables from the same power supply to the board to minimize voltage drop to the board (which is the distribution point) as much as possible. See this video for the why and how: ua-cam.com/video/behbh8VqPTg/v-deo.html
@@IntermitTech thanks a lot :)
Where would I place sensors on this? any videos?
curious why you have 2+ve and 2-ve as input power.
Especially for 5v if you want to go up to 30A you want to minimize voltage drop and heating up of the wires at every stage. Power supplies have multiple terminals to accomplish this so if you really want to run 5v 30A it's recommended to connect with 2x 10AWG or at least 2x12AWG between the PSU and board. It makes it much easier (and cheaper) then running say 1x 6AWG.
Why is the Male connector on the supply end?
Who has chosen that orientation?
would it not be more logical if the supply side were female just like your Wall outlet??
You mean for the JST connector? That's just how the strips generally get made, it's also a bit of a difficult connector to call male or female since the strip side doesn't have the pins sticking out but that connector does go into the other connector, which does have the pins sticking out (but inside of the connector)
Do IT have pins it's a male No matter the housing / bessel
Is there a way to pass the GPIOs into FPP to be used as triggers in FPP?
I have an ABE dig-quad board, I flashed with latest WLED but how do I get into the software to enable the Ethernet port? This is my first time setting one of these up. I pulled an ethernet cable in and checked my router but it does not see any ethernet connections.
Join the WLED-AP, go to wifi settings, scroll down and selected QuinLED-ESP32 in the Ethernet settings, done!
@@IntermitTech I see the IP in my router network devices but when I try to connect to that IP I get nothing. Im trying to do this while still connected to the USB. Is that perhaps my problem?
I have also tried connecting the ESB32 board back on my dig-quad and powering it up normally. I still cannot connect to the IP
Why is there two lines (2 reds, 2 blacks) coming from your power supply to your dig-quad? Is that required?
It depends on the Amps you are going to run, if you are pushing more then 10Amps through the board out the various power injection points yes, it is, it will limit voltage drop between the power supply and the distribution point, in this case the Dig-Quad board. Especially when you are getting near 30Amps continuous, 2x set of 16AWG at least is no luxery.
@@IntermitTech I assume there's no harm in just using 2x set of 14awg wire to be on the safe side regardless of my ultimate voltage use?
Yes, no problem, you can go up to 2x10AWG in regards to what fits. Voltage always needs to match (so 5v LEDs get a 5v power supply) and Amps need to be enough, and more is fine. So if you expect 10Amp draw, get a 15Amps or 20Amps power supply (a bit over is recommended) and it's all good.
I caught that blip about going back to GPIO2 for the default for LED1... What's the reasoning behind that?
So there is a bit of a history there. The reason it's GPIO16 is because that mapped to GPIO2 which was used on the ESP8266 and when the board was ESP8266 and ESP32 compatible. My ESP32 modules are based on the WROOM modules from Espressif themselves and then there is no problem with that. But if you'd used WROVER based modules GPIO16 has functions tied to the PSRAM found in those modules which could create a conflict. Now while there is no problem on *my* boards since all are WROOM (no PSRAM) based, some other boards might use WROVER modules and then having the default for WLED on GPIO16 could thus create an issue. So for those technical reasons I do get why they would not keep it as default for WLED in that sense. :)
@@IntermitTech Great explanation, thanks!, so no reason to change an existing setup with one of your boards. I was just trying to prepare if there was a reason to move :)
I just want to connect my Ethernet Dig-Quad to the ethernet connection on my notebook rather than any existing router etc..can someone give me a link to an article as to what I have to do on Windows to make this happen . Many thanks
I don't have an article but basically you nerd to assign both a static IP in the same subnet and then they can talk to each other...
Can you use this with “dumb” LEDs?
WLED yes but you'll need a board with MOSFETs on there like my analog controllers.
What version of WLED got loaded? I'm trying to follow along and I don't see the selection to create a segment for each oiutput.
V13-b5 but since then v13-b6 came out, make sure you are on the v2 flasher website.
@@IntermitTech Ah, well then. I flashed V12 because I wasn't sure of the beta releases. Thanks!
Ah yeah, it's a new feature in v13, but you can easily set it manually in v12. :)
No matter what I do, I cannot get WLED .13 to output from more than one source. And now all my lights are completely static and won't change at all
I'm confused what you are asking? Maybe come to the Discord?
How can you add motion sensors to a project using a Dig-Quad and wled? any info would be most helpful, just ordered the board and looking forward to starting some projects
Your motion sensors and anything in wled should both be connected to Home Assistant. The you can have anything in HA control anything else easily.
I have a question on my wled app I don't get my channels to set up my lights I'm using pixels any suggestions
Not sure what you are asking. You mean in LED preferences.
Yes
If you can't see it in the app maybe try using a browser.
will WLED app work with GS8202?
I believe it will yes
heey leuk man kom je uit nederland ?
Yup
Does WLED support TM1814 led strips
Also, don’t see config options for 24v?
Yee
No need, the controller board needs to support it, which the QuinLED-Dig controllers
I actually ordered mine a week or so ago and it was delivered today... to the wrong address on the other side of the country. Guess I'll have to dispute the purchase. : (
Oh wow, what happened there, check with allnet to see what went wrong? Otherwise contact me on Discord and I'll do it. :)
@@IntermitTech Done. And thanks!
Why do you cover data ports by the board? Sorta a pain.
Sorry which ones are we talking about? You mean having to remove the ESP board? It's to save on size mainly. But if that's of no concern look at the Dig-Octa, that should work better for you then I think!
I appreciate your videos, but DIG is short for digital and should be pronounced “DIJ.”