Nice. Been looking at doing food-safe beeswax + oil mixture for blade, wood, leather, and skin care applications (kinda like a catch-all utility mix to have in a small container). Originally tried almond and coconut oil. Found out those go bad lol. Mineral oil it is
I love the "accountant breakdown"! Very thorough. I stripped down an old dining table and love the look of the raw wood, could I use this on a tabletop as well?
Love how people rub oils in with a towel or rag and then the conditioner gets absorbed into that instead of the board. Kind of a waste! Just use your fingers to rub in....
I tried this and after the first wash it came off and the wood looks white. How do I apply this so it repels more water. The fibres of the board have risen again.
I don't know why I never thought of that method to mix it 4 to 1. A simple but GREAT way! Great tip!!!! If you don't mind, saving money tip... Walmart sells mineral oil in their pharmacy area, its $1.89 I think for 16 oz. It is by far the cheapest source of mineral oil. How much is your oil?
Yup... I know it's not labeled "Food Grade", but I'd argue that pharmaceutical standards are more rigorous, and because it's meant for consumption, I'd say it's gotta be "Food Grade". Also, buying these 16oz bottles and 1oz bars of beeswax means no measuring. Just combine 1- 16oz bottle of mineral oil with 4-1oz bars of beeswax... easy.
Exactly. Walmart. Even Costco was way more and it has to be special ordered. By definition it's food grade in the pharmacy as it's sold as a laxative for human consumption. About to make up some more board butter right now. I was here trying to discover the characteristics of various ratios. I'm pretty sure I was 9:1 oil to beeswax last time. Maybe I'll try 4:1 this time.
Is there something I could add to this mix that will slightly change the color of my wood to a tiny bit darker? Still within food-safe for kitchen counters
Turmeric or charred wood carbon powder. You could use ochre/ocher for a redder color too, but would have to make sure it's a food safe kind. These ingredients might impart a mild flavor as well, but shouldn't be too strong if used sparingly and just for pigment.
jorgealvarez0525 - I use this method for new boards to finish them as it seems to hold in the moisture for longer than a thin layer of oil. That said, I always have a bottle of food grade mineral oil around to “freshen up” the boards once I have used them for a few months.
I plan on treating my new butcher block with mineral oil daily until it won't take anymore, then applying this 4:1 cream as a finish/sealant... and re-apply each periodically for maintenance.
Hmm, mine didn't turn out like your end result :(. Its like a really thick liquid, 24 hours later. The only difference was that I used weight to work out the 4:1 ratio. I'm guessing I maybe should have added more beeswax?
Where I live, coconut oil can be solid in cold weather and liquid in warm. Maybe this is similar? Companies have called finishes creams so maybe a really thick liquid might work like a lotion.
@@exzeroex Thanks, the mix still seemed to work fine as a semi liquid/cream. I did end up adding a bit more beeswax and that did then turn it into a thick paste, so think maybe my ratio was off.
You did not factor in your electricity cost as well as the cost for your time to produce it. This will increase your unit price slightly, but that would be a more accurate costing (especially for an accountant.......)
Would be hard to justify the costs of DIY, honestly. How many years will waxing your board take if you only wax at least once a month? 12 years? Can the wax mix last 12 years without degradation or change? It's not just the price of the items, it's the electricity used, as well as your time spent making them - things you haven't factored in and which you don't need to expend on if you just buy them ready made. A $14 expense yearly will hardly be eating into much funds anyway, if you can afford wooden utensils and boards.
Nice. Been looking at doing food-safe beeswax + oil mixture for blade, wood, leather, and skin care applications (kinda like a catch-all utility mix to have in a small container). Originally tried almond and coconut oil. Found out those go bad lol. Mineral oil it is
I love the "accountant breakdown"! Very thorough. I stripped down an old dining table and love the look of the raw wood, could I use this on a tabletop as well?
If non-food grade mineral is used,could this be used as wooden floor wax finish/polish?
great video. Love that you are looking for efficiencies to maximize your cash.
Love how people rub oils in with a towel or rag and then the conditioner gets absorbed into that instead of the board. Kind of a waste! Just use your fingers to rub in....
I tried this and after the first wash it came off and the wood looks white. How do I apply this so it repels more water. The fibres of the board have risen again.
I don't know why I never thought of that method to mix it 4 to 1. A simple but GREAT way! Great tip!!!! If you don't mind, saving money tip... Walmart sells mineral oil in their pharmacy area, its $1.89 I think for 16 oz. It is by far the cheapest source of mineral oil. How much is your oil?
Yup... I know it's not labeled "Food Grade", but I'd argue that pharmaceutical standards are more rigorous, and because it's meant for consumption, I'd say it's gotta be "Food Grade". Also, buying these 16oz bottles and 1oz bars of beeswax means no measuring. Just combine 1- 16oz bottle of mineral oil with 4-1oz bars of beeswax... easy.
Exactly. Walmart. Even Costco was way more and it has to be special ordered. By definition it's food grade in the pharmacy as it's sold as a laxative for human consumption. About to make up some more board butter right now. I was here trying to discover the characteristics of various ratios. I'm pretty sure I was 9:1 oil to beeswax last time. Maybe I'll try 4:1 this time.
Is there something I could add to this mix that will slightly change the color of my wood to a tiny bit darker? Still within food-safe for kitchen counters
Turmeric or charred wood carbon powder. You could use ochre/ocher for a redder color too, but would have to make sure it's a food safe kind. These ingredients might impart a mild flavor as well, but shouldn't be too strong if used sparingly and just for pigment.
Is this a only thing to use on a block/board? Or do u recomend a thin layer of oil followed with this? Or just this mixture
jorgealvarez0525 - I use this method for new boards to finish them as it seems to hold in the moisture for longer than a thin layer of oil. That said, I always have a bottle of food grade mineral oil around to “freshen up” the boards once I have used them for a few months.
I plan on treating my new butcher block with mineral oil daily until it won't take anymore, then applying this 4:1 cream as a finish/sealant... and re-apply each periodically for maintenance.
Hmm, mine didn't turn out like your end result :(. Its like a really thick liquid, 24 hours later. The only difference was that I used weight to work out the 4:1 ratio. I'm guessing I maybe should have added more beeswax?
Where I live, coconut oil can be solid in cold weather and liquid in warm. Maybe this is similar? Companies have called finishes creams so maybe a really thick liquid might work like a lotion.
@@exzeroex Thanks, the mix still seemed to work fine as a semi liquid/cream. I did end up adding a bit more beeswax and that did then turn it into a thick paste, so think maybe my ratio was off.
In general, when you're measuring with "parts", as in 4 parts oil and 1part beeswax, it's supposed to be volume, not weight.
Does it have a shelf life?
Nope its forever
You did not factor in your electricity cost as well as the cost for your time to produce it.
This will increase your unit price slightly, but that would be a more accurate costing (especially for an accountant.......)
Vertical video? Really?
Would be hard to justify the costs of DIY, honestly. How many years will waxing your board take if you only wax at least once a month? 12 years? Can the wax mix last 12 years without degradation or change? It's not just the price of the items, it's the electricity used, as well as your time spent making them - things you haven't factored in and which you don't need to expend on if you just buy them ready made. A $14 expense yearly will hardly be eating into much funds anyway, if you can afford wooden utensils and boards.