I used the paper towel method a week ago with some iris seeds and have them in the fridge. I plan to complete the cold stratification in 5 more weeks. I check on them every few days just for the fun of it. The anticipation is a bit like waiting for Christmas. LOL.
I'm excited to try this with the sand! I'm a believer of the 'paper towel method'. It works! You'd probably enjoy trying a new method I've learned. I've begun putting tough hulled seeds in a container of water in the fridge. Approx a week to a month sometimes. I check for the hull opening every few days. They pre sprout! I've done this with moonflower, honeywort, and lots of ornamental grasses. I'm in the process of trying lavender which is a toughie to start from seed in general! Love your video and thanks for sharing your info 💚🌱
Thank you so much! I've not tried just soaking seeds in water until germination. I could see that working on Golden Alexander, since it likes to germinate in colder temperatures. I'm about to put some tulip poplar seeds into some sand in just a few minutes. We'll see how they do, as I'm planning on only giving them a few months stratification (they are supposed to get six months).
Simple enough. Thank you for the video. What I don't understand is, I purchased seed packets that require cold stratification and nowhere on the packet does it mention cold stratification. I had to google the seed type for the information after germination failed in 2020, but too late to start again.
That's a bummer. I've found lots of germination info incomplete or too generic on seed packets. That's one of the reasons we started our website and channel. I had a heck of a time germinating Joe Pye weed and Ironweed based on instructions I found online or on a packet. But I eventually figured out a good system for both. It's kind of cool though, you really feel like you accomplished something when you get a high germination rate.
You are very welcome - if you've not done it before, it can get confusing. Most people talk about it like everyone already knows what it is and how to do it.
Thank you for the great instruction! I’m going to cold stratify some red maple seeds and I genuinely hope I don’t make it too wet! One small question though as you didn’t touch on that: do I come back to the bag, open it up and reapply some moisture to the paper towel? Thanks in advance for helping out, I’m new to this!
Hi - I would soak the seeds in tap water for 24 hours prior to stratifying. And then, with seeds as large as that, you can use coarse sand that is moist instead of the paper towel. Also - I don't know if you are in America, but if you are, Red Maple will bloom and set seed in about 1-2 months depending on where you live. And fresh Red Maple does NOT need stratification. See here - growitbuildit.com/red-maple-acer-rubrum/#germinate
Butterfly Milkweed needs cold strat? I'm in Central Florida (9b/10a) and our Milkweed seeds just fall off and self sow ... we get only a few days of cold here (30-40F).
Hi - they do benefit from a period of cold stratification. But I've germinated them without it before. If I were you I would just winter sow the seed, as that is the easiest method. Just keep the jug on the north side of your house. ua-cam.com/video/SKXY6dl-5Tk/v-deo.html
@@growitbuildit right on, didn't know that. I've just been letting mine self propagate when they go to seed, so technically they get a winter sow ... as far as Florida winter goes. 😆
How would you plant redbud seeds that overwintered on the tree and picked in early spring. Since they went through winter on the tree can I just plant the or do I need to do one of the stratification methods?
Hi - if they stayed on the tree all winter, they may have a lower germination rate from drying out. But, if they are viable, they will still need to go through the cold stratification in the fridge after the boiling water scarification method.
I started cold stratification of my pine trees 3 days ago. once the 30-45 days have passed, can I simply take the potting soil and transplant it into a pot? my seeds have been stratified already in the potting soil that I will use for growth
If your seeds have already been stratified then you can just plant them, or transfer the potting soil assuming you don't need to worry about planting depth, etc.
we tried sand for nettles, oops too small. I guess we will just put the sand out and see what happens, but we also did sand for turkish rocket and asian skullcap - I can see those seeds in the sand - thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge. -North East CT zone 6a
Yeah, I guess just putting the sand out is the best bet for your nettles! Spread the sand thin because I think those need exposure to sunlight to germinate. Good luck sir!
I'm trying to plant some swamp milkweed. I used the paper towel method but I put them in the freezer instead of the fridge. I took the seeds out and let them thaw before planting (sprinkling them on top) of some soil in some milk jugs about 2.5 weeks ago but them haven't germinated! Did I mess up? It's almost May now and I would have expected to have the beginnings of some seedlings :(
Hi Nina - I would think the freezer would be ok, since the most likely freeze sometimes in the wild while on the ground. But if you don't have seedlings yet, perhaps try again. Do the paper towel method, and after two weeks pull have the seeds and plant them, just pressing them into the soil. Place the container somewhere that gets morning sun, but afternoon shade (this is important). And only spray/mist them to water them. They need to stay moist and not dry out. If nothing in two weeks, pull the rest of the seeds (that will be four weeks stratification) and repeat. The other option is to buy more seed from a different source. As it is possible that you have non-viable seed.
@@growitbuildit Thank you. I will try again. I get anxious when I don't have little sprouts by summer. They are the same seeds from the same source I used last year. Last year I did the winter sow and they all germinated beautifully. Can seeds go bad from one year to the next? The only reason i don't have more mature plants this year (only 5 mature plants) is because last year my dogs decided it would be fun to throw my plastic pots around LOL.
Hi Nathan - I've got zero experience with poppy flowers. But if your instructions say cold stratification, this should work. Just make sure everything is as sterile as can be.
So, I found some redbud pods that were still attached to the tree recently. They were on there from last season. Very dry and very tiny. Does that mean they have been through stratification? Maybe I can just put them into planting soil? Or hot water first then into soil? Thoughts?
Hi Shane, unfortunately they haven't been through stratification. They must be in a cold/moist environment. Also, since they sat on the tree, they have totally dried out and probably are not viable. I would suggest you either purchase some seed online from a reputable company, or wait until Autumn to collect more pods and then store those in the fridge in a sealed zip-lock bag.
It's February 11 and I've kept Columbine seeds in the fridge in their pack for a month now. Do I still need to keep the seeds on moist paper towels. In the fridge for another month?
Hi - yes, or you could winter sow them. Personally, I would winter sow as there is basically no chance of mold. See here : ua-cam.com/video/SKXY6dl-5Tk/v-deo.html&lc=Ugz9YDHxGEZ1V2UPtfJ4AaABAg
I guess it would depend on how long and the species. But in general, if a seed needs 30 days but you give it six months, I bet it will be fine. Nature puts seed though a 3-6 month winter for many species all the time.
Hi - yes, you can do that. The only risk is that you may have problems with birds or rodents eating your seed. So, you should probably over-sow it a bit.
We wrote a detailed article with some additional info here; growitbuildit.com/seed-stratification-illustrated-guide/ We also have a ton of articles on how to grow other native plants too - so check it out.
Hi Morgan - you need to read the individual species. Generally it is 30 to 90 days, but different for each species of plant. Then, after having it in the fridge for that amount of time you just plant the seeds as normal, per the instructions.
When they have broken through and germinated, can I plant them then or put them in dirt and let them grow until it warms up? For reference to my seed needs I live in zone 7 Georgia
Hi Elizabeth - considering the time of year, I would think you may want to just Winter-Sow them. But, if they are on a paper towel and in the fridge, then I don't think they would germinate. The only seed I've seen have a germination in the fridge were White Oak acorns. Either way, once a seed germinates on a paper towel, you should plant them (gently). As of now though I would be concerned they may freeze if they were outside, particularly in pots. If you can, or just put them in the fridge, then I really would encourage you to Winter Sow them. Can I ask what kind of seeds, and if they have germinated?
@@growitbuildit , of course, I have wine cup, pale purple coneflower, Showy Beardtongue, Black-eyed Susan, Columbine, Coreopsis, and Red Bee Balm. They haven’t been started yet and that is why I thought I would use the paper towel method. There is not a lot of times one has to worry about freezing here as we’ve only just now have some cold weather. We get a lot of rain here. A lot of rain.
Hi Elizabeth - your reply got auto-deleted. That has been happening quite frequently with youtube. But in my notifications, I can see part of your reply, and that you had Winecups and Pale Purple Coneflower. Neither of those should be germinate in cold temperatures of the refrigerator. You could leave them in the fridge, and check them for mold periodically until Spring, or just plant them in pots and put them outside via winter-sowing (or just use the milkjugs). But there should definitely be enough time for the Pale Purple Coneflower to stratify for zone 7. I don't know why your reply was auto-deleted. But if you have more questions, or there was important info I couldn't see, just email me. You can find our email on our 'about' tab of our channel page. Joe
Question: If I don't mind when my Partridge Pea germinates can I just plant it in the fall or late summer and expect it to come up the following spring? I have a ton of seeds and I don't mind if I put a ton into the ground and only a fraction grow in, I just want something desirable to come up in the spring to help compete with undesirable weeds.
I love your videos. I have a couple questions I hope you don't mind answering. I decided to do this method on some Black-Eyed Susan seeds I just bought. I was probably a little overly cautious and only made the paper towel very, very lightly damp, probably half as much as in your video. Should I dampen them more, or do you think they'd be fine? And, how long should I leave them in the refrigerator? I was guessing thirty days.
Hi Justin - 30 days should be fine. You can always check it in a few days, and if it feels dry just mist it with water. If you live in zone 6, you could probably winter sow them yet. I've winter sowed in April and had plenty of success with these...as long as the evenings get cool.
Hi, you just wait the allotted time for cold stratification. In my experience, you can't see any obvious difference in the seeds. The cold moist conditions aren't for imbibing water, just for simulating winter. Just check your reference on how long to stratify. We have stratification times on articles we've written at our site growitbuildit.com. what seeds are you stratifying? I might know the time outright.
I just realized I need to do stratification. No wonder mine didn't grow last few years Bec I didn't know. What happens if it gets moldy or roots start to formed ? I know nothing about stratification Bec I have never done this before since I always buy plants or plugs. Thanks ! Question : Have you ever done scarification ? I wish seeds company needs to give information on the packets .
Hi Jin - I've had mold form before using the paper towel method for stratification. Generally that happens if it is too wet. Usually it doesn't effect all the seeds, just some (green circles emanating from specific seeds on the towel). But when that happens, I just try to select seeds that didn't have mold. If roots start to form, then the seed has sprouted, and you can just plant it. Just be very gentle. But I should let you know, that it being winter, you could just winter sow the seed. It is extremely easy. I do it every year, and you just let nature do the stratification for you. It really works, and it's easy. Here is a very simple step by step guide to winter sowing: growitbuildit.com/illustrated-guide-to-winter-sowing-with-pictures/ For scarification - I've done an entire video on that! Here it is: ua-cam.com/video/2GP6QUuE2JQ/v-deo.html If you have specific questions, I may be able to answer them. Or, if I've written it up on our website, it will have accurate information for how to germinate the seed. growitbuildit.com
@@growitbuildit Thank you, Sir ! You gave links too, awesome ! 🌸🌺 Well, I am in Orlando, FL, unfortunately we only have cold front days which is not enough only nights mostly so I considered myself living in tropical State. But wish me luck for doing everything in order for first time. Fingers cross for Spring 🌹🌸🌺
Thanks for the video. I collected redbud seeds from my yard in February. Will they need to be stratified? If so, do I need to soak them in hot water first?
Hi Jammie - yes, they need to be scarified and then stratified. Do the boiling hot water trick I show in this video. Make sure they swell up with water. If they don't, you may have to do the hot water trick again. ua-cam.com/video/ZMxZonkEUpM/v-deo.html Also - I have a good pic of what 'imbibed' seeds look like here: growitbuildit.com/eastern-redbud-tree-cercis-canadensis/#germinate
I have a question for you 🙋♂️, Do some people plant stratified seedlings in summer season? Do some people do this? I need to know this is because I haven’t heard more about planting stratified seedlings in summer season. I haven’t heard about this. Should stratified seedlings be planted in summer too?
If you have seeds that need stratification, and you haven't winter sowed them, then you can stratify them and plant in the summer. It is better to do so in Spring when temps are cooler. You just need to make sure you have enough time for the plant to grow after germination. If you plant stratified seeds in late summer, not long before frost, your plant may not grow that much to survive the winter.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Do I have to use sand for larger seeds? Also after I plant them in the little containers, do I use a growing medium or will regular bag soil work. Then I transplant into the ground after they get their true leaves? Thank you in advance. 😊
Hi Elizabeth - the way I think of it is that sand has a lot more water available than a paper towel, so with a large seed you want it to be able to stay moist, and as it absorbs water it could dry out with just a paper towel (it's happened to me). For sowing into small containers after stratifying in the fridge, I use a potting mix. The kinds I normally used are mostly sphagnum peat moss. ProMix is about the best, but a bit pricey. For flowers, I usually have the containers outside. For veggies - I start them on a paper towel about 4-6 weeks before transplant time, and keep them outside in direct sun during the day, and indoors at night. I monitor the temp to get the soil hot, as tomatoes/peppers don't grow much unless the soil is hot (tropical plants). Once there are a couple of sets of true leaves, transplant into the ground (assuming it is safe to do so - if a tender annual or veggie, make sure the danger of frost is past.) I feel I should also mention, that since it is Winter, you could probably just Winter Sow them based on your location. It is about the easiest way to handle the stratification and planting. I do have a detailed video on the procedure. ua-cam.com/video/SKXY6dl-5Tk/v-deo.html
If I've got a sandwich bag with sand, is there a limit to how many butterfly weed seeds I could do in one bag? Should I be doing just 5 or 6, or can I do a dozen or more?
Hi - you can do as many as you like or will fit, just make sure you don't damage the seed. Because the Butterfly weed seeds are so thin I always used the paper towel method when using the fridge for stratification.
Thanks for the video. Going to try this now. What if the seeds to go through warm stratification first, do i use the same process just leave them sitting outside of the fridge? How often should you check on the seeds to see if it needs moisture?
Hi Lawrence, when I had to do 'warm' stratification, I did the same process, but kept it on top of my hot water heater (which is insulated). It was basically at a temperature of 85F. If your hot water heater is hot to the touch, or above 90F, then you could try the top of the refrigerator. Regarding checking for moisture, if the bag is sealed, no moisture should escape. But, you should check periodically for any mold. If there is too much water, you can sometimes get mold/fungus forming around the seeds. Good luck! And I'm glad you found the video helpful!
I was wondering if there will be problem if you do this in summer and after they start to grow ( so 5 weeks in the fridge) you pull them out and the temperature is normally way higher than in the fridge so will they grow or this temperature difference will kill them ?
If the seeds germinate then they need to get into soil. If you manage to sprout them, I would plant them in pots and try to keep them in a garage or shed so the temperature stays cold. The best answer though may be to collect the seed in Fall (pinecones) and just Winter Sow the seed. I did this with Northern White Cedar last year and had some decent success germinating them.
@@growitbuildit Actually I have them in a little bit of humus soil and I pulled them out 3 days ago in the shade cause they already started germinate in the fridge.I hope they will continue to grow its 33 daily and 18 during night degrees Celsius nowadays here in Macedonia
Id like to know how succesful you are with seeds that generally need long stratification times like a taxus baccata. Also do you know if taxus baccata needs any other special requirements besides the long stratification time?
Hi - I have not tried that species, as I generally keep it to species native to North America. But from what I've read, soaking Yew seeds for a day or two can help soften them a bit. The trouble is Yew needs a 2-3 month warm moist period followed by an equivalent cold period. Even still, the germination make take a year or two. I've attempted one species with similar requirements, Witch Hazel. But I was unsuccessful. However, I may have tossed them prematurely. As often these 'difficult' seeds just need a whole lot of time. This year I grew Pawpaw (10 successful), which was stratified from October until Spring, but it still didn't germinate until mid-Summer. The 2 pots I have that never germinated (with Pawpaw) are still outside, and I'm keeping them moist. As I figure they may just germinate next year.
Hi Kim - I'm guessing the bag wasn't sealed or not enough water. It must have dried out. So it was probably partially stratified. If it is still cool in the evenings where you live, you could probably just plant them very shallow in an area that gets morning sun and afternoon shade. Just water it in the mornings so the soil stays moist.
Hi! How do you do the teeny lobelia seeds? In a paper towel? How long do they have to be cold? Oh--and did you say that lobelia seeds need light to germinate, and if so, is it both the red/cardinal flower and the blue lobelia that need light? I started both in peat pellets and for some reason, only one type germinated.
Hi Anna, for lobelia, I either winter-sow or don't bother stratifying. However, it is possible to stratify those tiny seeds. But, instead of stratifying in the paper towel, you just plant in a pot. Then put the pot in the fridge for a week or two. You could do this to a six-pack, or a single 4" pot. But, I have successfully germinated Lobelia without stratification. It just takes a bit longer (2+ weeks). As far as one of them germinating but not the other, you might just need a bit of patience. In my experience, Blue Lobelia will germinate faster than Cardinal Flower.
I have Red Butterflies milkweed (Asclepias Curassavica) seeds. I'm in 9B Apache Junction, AZ. Do I need to cold stratify for this zone? I want to share these seeds and want to make sure I include instructions on how to if it is necessary. thanks!
I want to start some Goumi bushes. Can’t seem to find much on stratification - whether hot stratification or cold stratification or scarification. Not sure exactly which it needs. Any knowledge on that particular seed?
@@growitbuildit it’s supposed to be the best fruit there is health wise. Got all kind of good things in it. Even supposedly being used to fight cancer and in some cases even reverse it. I can find how to propagate it from new growth but would really like to get some seeds going. Trying a few different ways but just looking for someone who’s already had success. Will just keep experimenting. Thank you for your reply though.
Do you have any knowledge on blackberry seeds? I just noticed the package says to cold stratify for 3-5 months. 😱 They grow in warm climates, so I guess that seems nonsensical to me. Won't they just mold in the refrigerator for that long!?
Hi Candace - I've not germinated blackberry seeds. But to prevent mold, you could soak them in a 1:10 bleach to water solution for about a minute, then rinse them off. The seeds of Blackberries are pretty hard. It also might help to soak in hot tap water for a day before stratifying for 90 days in the fridge.
Great video, very informational. I don't know how much experience you have with tree seeds, but how would you specifically go about germinating them? I'm planning on starting stratification for most at around this time (late Nov - early Dec) and starting them indoors about 100 days later. Is there a different way you would go about it? Thank you!
Hi TR - The sand method works with tree seeds. I've done it on several different species. But really, the best way to do trees in my experience is to winter sow them, which mimics what mother nature does. Depending on the size, you can do it in a pot buried in the ground, or in milk jugs or little six-packs. I'll give you a link to a good article on how to wintersow, which covers the background as well as step by step method. growitbuildit.com/illustrated-guide-to-winter-sowing-with-pictures/ But for trees, you really need to know the species well. Some species have strange 'pre-treatments'. For example, Witch Hazel needs to experience two summers, then two winters in moist soil before germinating. Others like the Eastern Redbud Tree need to get a hot water treatment (scarification). And many of the seeds can't be allowed to completely dry out and need to be stored in the fridge in a baggy. So, the absolute best thing you can do is to plant the seed to the correct depth, and mimic mother nature by winter sowing. But, first research if any scarification is needed. For scarification, I do have a good video on that too you may find helpful, if your seeds require it that is. ua-cam.com/video/2GP6QUuE2JQ/v-deo.html And finally, I will be winter sowing several different species within a week or two. Some of the seeds I've been storing in the fridge in baggies, others I've been stratifying in a vermiculite/Sphagnum peat moss mix, which is basically sand+acidic peat moss. Some of these I've germinated before, others it is my first attempt.
@@growitbuildit Thank you for the response. I'm located in Zone 6a, SW Michigan, for reference. The only seeds I have that require scarification are the Eastern Redbuds. The rest are trees native to the upper Midwest / Southern Michigan region (American Beech, Swamp White Oak, American Sycamore, Eastern Juniper, White Spruce, Red Pine, Eastern Hemlock are some examples, which obviously some require stratification and others do not). I do have another question, and that is, do you solely do stratification during the winter months, or do you also during Spring/Summer and start the seeds indoors/plant outside? Thank you again.
@@growitbuildit And one last question: container-wise, what would you recommend for winter stratification? I was thinking a couple trays along with a few various plastic/paper containers (like a coffee cup). Would the seeds benefit more from something primarily enclosed?
Ok - regarding when I do stratification, I do it when I need to. But, if given the choice - always in the winter and let mother nature handle it. It is just easier that way for Spring germination. Temperatures just warm up normally, and the seeds just sprout on their own. Stuff doesn't dry out as much either. But be warned - some species take a really long time to germinate. I had some Mountain Laurel this year that didn't germinate until Mid-August, or somewhere around there. It was planted in Feb. It took that long w/ constant moist soil to germinate (cells have the moss to prove it). For container question, the easiest thing to use would be a milk jug. You could probably use a large pot though, you just want to make sure the soil stays moist. A milk jug would have plenty of soil mass for larger seeds (acorns, beech), and it is a self sustaining greenhouse. Also, it is protected from Squirrels (they will be your nemesis with tree nuts). You can easily add water if needed. The guide I posted in my previous comment shows exactly what to do.
You would scarify the seeds before the refrigerator. Now, if you look at the video on growing Redbud trees from seed - you will see that I had the best success by just soaking them in very hot water. Then, check them to make sure they actually imbibe water. Once that is done, then you stratify them in the refrigerator.
My Sequoia seeds was in the fridge for about 16 days, and they germinated just fine. Had them on a hot bathroom floor for a week after that to make them germinate. Going to try only a week in the fridge for hazelnuts now, see if that's enough.
It was about 3 years ago I tried sowing witch hazel. It is a tough seed to germinate. I used moist vermiculite, as that is what the references suggested. I had to give it 'two' winters and a summer before sowing. So, after keeping it in the fridge for a month, I next stored it on top of the water heater (which was about 85F) for a month. Then, I just winter sowed it. I never got any germination from it (unfortunately). I ended up buying some bare root trees from coldstreamfarm (which I highly recommend). At least 2 of the 4 are doing fine. I think one of the others is still alive too. The problem is deer, as they will browse them. If I had to do it all over again, I think I would just try to locate a wild plant. Gather seed in the fall, and take it home and plant it outside immediately. The key thing being to plant it in an area that matches it's growing conditions. Then, if the seed was viable - nature should take its course in due time.
Hi Nina - With Pawpaw seeds, I soak them in a 1:10 bleach/water solution for a minute, then rinse in water before stratifying in the fridge. It seems to cut back on mold developing. I'm not sure if you can do it to all seeds, or if the bleach would harm the seed in some way. But for Pawpaws, it definitely works. If you are planting them into individual pots, I would personally probably try to use them. Maybe just dunk them in some Hydrogen Peroxide (the cheap one you get in the first aid section) to kill the mold.
I really have a question for you 🙋♂️ , is it okay that I can cold stratify seeds in the mini fridge? Can I cold stratify them in the mini fridge? Is that okay? Yes or no?
Hi everyone, this is our first time trying the paper towel method in the fridge. I started the seeds on January 13th, I just checked today (Feb 11) and some of the paper towels are getting some green mold or algae on them. Particularly my Nootka rose and Butterfly milkweed. The inside of the paper towel seems okay so far, most of the green stuff is on the outside. Should I be worried or is this pretty normal? Thanks for all your help!
Hi - it can happen if there was bacteria/fungi on your seeds or towel. I can't speak for the rose, but the Butterfly milkweed should have met all stratification requirements by now (13Jan-12Feb). You should be able to plant that one. For the rose, if the inside of the towel is ok, you could remove the seeds and transfer to a new towel. Or dunk in a mixture of one part bleach to 10 parts water for a minute, and put it in a new towel.
Does anyone have a good tip for getting rid of aphids on a new honeysuckle plant? I don’t want to use pesticides bc the honeysuckle is under the fence where I put out bird food & many of the birds skull food there that the ground birds pick up all day long & I don’t want to accidentally kill any birds or squirrels that I feed nor do I want pesticides in my yard bc I’m disabled & share my yard with 2 service dogs. I owe it to them to keep our surroundings as safe as can be. I’m new to gardening in Fort Collins, Colorado & these little tiny aphids are nothing like the ones I used to battles in Boston with my roses. I’ve tried spraying them with my hose & using dawn soap, but so fat I’m losing the battle & sadly I’m afraid I brought it home from the store this way bc I wasn’t wearing my glasses & I thought I could see something moving every so often around the leaves, but I wanted a honeysuckle to go with a climbing rose & let my heart get the better of my brain. Last time I go to the store without glasses! Lesson learned. I’ve just put in a complete garden from scratch including soil & I’m kicking myself for risking the health of my entire garden over one honeysuckle plant. Ugh. Lol. Worse, I wanted jasmine to plant with my climbing rose, but couldn’t find it so honeysuckle was my second choice. Lol. It was ready to bloom & now all the leaves are curled & the blooms are filled with aphids as are the undersides of the leaves. Seriously thinking about cutting it back to the ground. I’ll take any tips anyone offers. Thanks! Loved, the video & I’m hoping to try it one Day.
Hi Sherri - I have also used a hose, and soapy water and found both to be OK at controlling aphids. The best method though, although gross, is to just squish them with your fingers. The thing is, no matter what you try, there will always be more. Hose, soap, squishing - even lady bugs won't get them all. Again, this is just my experience. I hope someone answers you who has a 100% effective solution.
I was going to suggest the spraying off with a garden hose, but see that you have tried. To me it's being drastic when you gotta get out the hose, but spraying them off the plant and onto the ground does work. Probably the thing to do when you water each day or so. Neem oil is an option. I am going to be trying it again myself. In the past was skeptical of spraying anything on my plants and have killed plants with Neem (over did it), but Neem is generally safe with good bugs and Earthworms and bad for the pests. It says to stop two weeks before harvest for it to break down and wash off. Predator bugs are needed, like the Ladybug. You can pick up a container of them at a local grow store or order online and turn them loose in the garden. They are fond of eating Aphids and Spider Mites. For Thrips, Gnats and White Flies I use the yellow sticky sheets. They work well. The blue ones not so much.
Trust me when you start growing more different types of wildflowers you'll find out that putting them in just the fridge is not enough to get them to sprout.
I used the paper towel method a week ago with some iris seeds and have them in the fridge. I plan to complete the cold stratification in 5 more weeks. I check on them every few days just for the fun of it. The anticipation is a bit like waiting for Christmas. LOL.
I completely understand!
Did it work and bloom that summer?
Watched to learn how to cold stratify columbine flower seeds. Thank you for the informative demonstration.
You are very welcome Laura - good luck starting your seed!
I'm excited to try this with the sand! I'm a believer of the 'paper towel method'. It works! You'd probably enjoy trying a new method I've learned. I've begun putting tough hulled seeds in a container of water in the fridge. Approx a week to a month sometimes. I check for the hull opening every few days. They pre sprout! I've done this with moonflower, honeywort, and lots of ornamental grasses. I'm in the process of trying lavender which is a toughie to start from seed in general! Love your video and thanks for sharing your info 💚🌱
Thank you so much! I've not tried just soaking seeds in water until germination. I could see that working on Golden Alexander, since it likes to germinate in colder temperatures. I'm about to put some tulip poplar seeds into some sand in just a few minutes. We'll see how they do, as I'm planning on only giving them a few months stratification (they are supposed to get six months).
Woow I didn't realize some required such a looong stratification period! That's good to know! Thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge 💚🌱
Good stuff. Thanks for keeping it simple.
You are very welcome!
Simple enough. Thank you for the video. What I don't understand is, I purchased seed packets that require cold stratification and nowhere on the packet does it mention cold stratification. I had to google the seed type for the information after germination failed in 2020, but too late to start again.
That's a bummer. I've found lots of germination info incomplete or too generic on seed packets. That's one of the reasons we started our website and channel. I had a heck of a time germinating Joe Pye weed and Ironweed based on instructions I found online or on a packet. But I eventually figured out a good system for both. It's kind of cool though, you really feel like you accomplished something when you get a high germination rate.
Thank you and I love you.
You're welcome
Thank you! This helped me cold stratify some pitcher plant seeds.
You are very welcome - good luck!
Clear and to the point! Thank you! Off to stratify my artichoke seeds! 😁
Thank you - glad you enjoyed it. Good luck with your artichokes!
Thank you so much, starting my cold stratification now I was a bit confuse on how to do it. Your video was very well made.
You are very welcome - if you've not done it before, it can get confusing. Most people talk about it like everyone already knows what it is and how to do it.
Subscribed 1min in because I learned something ! ! Thanks
Thank you Benny! Glad you found it helpful.
Thanks for that video! I was wondering how to cold stratify my Edelweiss seeds, so now I have an idea on how to go about it. Have you ever grown them?
Hi - I am not familiar with that species, unfortunately
@@growitbuildit Oh ok thanks, well I'll let you know how things go when I've cold stratified them.
Great information. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it.
Great information and straight to it. Thank you!
You are welcome Yadelsy
Would the paper towel method work for Tall and Maximilian's sunflower seeds?
Yes, it would work for both. I must say though - if you can - winter sowing is BY FAR the best method for both of those species.
Also thank you for all your info.
Thank you - great info! 😊
You are very welcome!
Thank you for the great instruction! I’m going to cold stratify some red maple seeds and I genuinely hope I don’t make it too wet! One small question though as you didn’t touch on that: do I come back to the bag, open it up and reapply some moisture to the paper towel? Thanks in advance for helping out, I’m new to this!
Hi - I would soak the seeds in tap water for 24 hours prior to stratifying. And then, with seeds as large as that, you can use coarse sand that is moist instead of the paper towel.
Also - I don't know if you are in America, but if you are, Red Maple will bloom and set seed in about 1-2 months depending on where you live. And fresh Red Maple does NOT need stratification. See here - growitbuildit.com/red-maple-acer-rubrum/#germinate
Very informative. Thank u so much!
You are very welcome Celia!
Butterfly Milkweed needs cold strat? I'm in Central Florida (9b/10a) and our Milkweed seeds just fall off and self sow ... we get only a few days of cold here (30-40F).
Hi - they do benefit from a period of cold stratification. But I've germinated them without it before. If I were you I would just winter sow the seed, as that is the easiest method. Just keep the jug on the north side of your house. ua-cam.com/video/SKXY6dl-5Tk/v-deo.html
@@growitbuildit right on, didn't know that. I've just been letting mine self propagate when they go to seed, so technically they get a winter sow ... as far as Florida winter goes. 😆
How would you plant redbud seeds that overwintered on the tree and picked in early spring. Since they went through winter on the tree can I just plant the or do I need to do one of the stratification methods?
Hi - if they stayed on the tree all winter, they may have a lower germination rate from drying out. But, if they are viable, they will still need to go through the cold stratification in the fridge after the boiling water scarification method.
How long do poppy seeds need to be stratified? Can you reduce the time by placing them in the freezer, or is that where you put all of your seeds?
I stored my seeds in the fridge oops
I thought frig was better. Hmmm 🤔 Am I wrong? 2:41
Excellent video! Thx for the info!
You are welcome Sherri!
I started cold stratification of my pine trees 3 days ago. once the 30-45 days have passed, can I simply take the potting soil and transplant it into a pot? my seeds have been stratified already in the potting soil that I will use for growth
If your seeds have already been stratified then you can just plant them, or transfer the potting soil assuming you don't need to worry about planting depth, etc.
Do you do the scarification before stratification? Or do I scarify right before planting after stratification?
Scarify before stratify. You are opening the seed coat so that embryo can gain access to the moisture.
we tried sand for nettles, oops too small. I guess we will just put the sand out and see what happens, but we also did sand for turkish rocket and asian skullcap - I can see those seeds in the sand - thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge. -North East CT zone 6a
Yeah, I guess just putting the sand out is the best bet for your nettles! Spread the sand thin because I think those need exposure to sunlight to germinate. Good luck sir!
I'm trying to plant some swamp milkweed. I used the paper towel method but I put them in the freezer instead of the fridge. I took the seeds out and let them thaw before planting (sprinkling them on top) of some soil in some milk jugs about 2.5 weeks ago but them haven't germinated! Did I mess up? It's almost May now and I would have expected to have the beginnings of some seedlings :(
Hi Nina - I would think the freezer would be ok, since the most likely freeze sometimes in the wild while on the ground. But if you don't have seedlings yet, perhaps try again.
Do the paper towel method, and after two weeks pull have the seeds and plant them, just pressing them into the soil. Place the container somewhere that gets morning sun, but afternoon shade (this is important). And only spray/mist them to water them. They need to stay moist and not dry out.
If nothing in two weeks, pull the rest of the seeds (that will be four weeks stratification) and repeat.
The other option is to buy more seed from a different source. As it is possible that you have non-viable seed.
@@growitbuildit Thank you. I will try again. I get anxious when I don't have little sprouts by summer. They are the same seeds from the same source I used last year. Last year I did the winter sow and they all germinated beautifully. Can seeds go bad from one year to the next? The only reason i don't have more mature plants this year (only 5 mature plants) is because last year my dogs decided it would be fun to throw my plastic pots around LOL.
It's possible that they lost viability, but in my experience they last for 2-3 years
@@growitbuildit Thanks. My seed packet said they were harvested in on 9/2020 so maybe they have lost it. We'll see in 2 - 4 weeks. Thank You!
Would this work for most poppy varieties?
Hi Nathan - I've got zero experience with poppy flowers. But if your instructions say cold stratification, this should work. Just make sure everything is as sterile as can be.
So, I found some redbud pods that were still attached to the tree recently. They were on there from last season. Very dry and very tiny. Does that mean they have been through stratification? Maybe I can just put them into planting soil? Or hot water first then into soil?
Thoughts?
Hi Shane, unfortunately they haven't been through stratification. They must be in a cold/moist environment. Also, since they sat on the tree, they have totally dried out and probably are not viable. I would suggest you either purchase some seed online from a reputable company, or wait until Autumn to collect more pods and then store those in the fridge in a sealed zip-lock bag.
It's February 11 and I've kept Columbine seeds in the fridge in their pack for a month now. Do I still need to keep the seeds on moist paper towels. In the fridge for another month?
Hi - yes, or you could winter sow them. Personally, I would winter sow as there is basically no chance of mold. See here : ua-cam.com/video/SKXY6dl-5Tk/v-deo.html&lc=Ugz9YDHxGEZ1V2UPtfJ4AaABAg
@@growitbuildit thank you so much! I will get them in water jugs right now. I appreciate your help!
How often, if at all do you need to redampen the towel/sand?
If the bag is sealed, you never have to. A couple of times I've found that the bag wasn't completely sealed, it did dry out.
If you do forget em in the fridge will it damage em
I guess it would depend on how long and the species. But in general, if a seed needs 30 days but you give it six months, I bet it will be fine. Nature puts seed though a 3-6 month winter for many species all the time.
Can you cold stratify straight into the ground and cover with mulch or pine needles ? Thank you for the information .
Hi - yes, you can do that. The only risk is that you may have problems with birds or rodents eating your seed. So, you should probably over-sow it a bit.
@@growitbuildit thank you very much ! I’m going to try it .
What about adding sugar to the water? I know this is done for germinating older seeds, but how does that fit in with this technique?
Hi - I've actually never heard of that before. I do not know if it would have any effect on the cold stratification though.
@@growitbuildit I mostly see it in reference to cannabis seeds, but I imagine this is done with a number of others.
We wrote a detailed article with some additional info here; growitbuildit.com/seed-stratification-illustrated-guide/
We also have a ton of articles on how to grow other native plants too - so check it out.
Thank you so much. Will follow up.
Could I use seed starting mix instead of sand? I was going to put a whole covered tray in the fridge
If you are planting seeds in soil/containers, then placing that in the fridge - that is perfectly fine.
@@growitbuildit great! I just finished my trays on Valentine's day and put them in the fridge. Thank you again!
When you use paper towel method you can use cinnamon to prevent molding. Sprinkle some on paper towel after you wet it .
That is a cool tip. I will have to try that. Thank you!
What is the latest I can plant my seeds outside to get cold stratification. I live in the St Louis MO area?
For St, Louis? I would guess March 1st. That should give you 30 days cold stratification with cool to freezing evenings.
How do you know when they are done? I have some seeds but when i am reading gis anywhere from 2 weeks-3 months of cold stratification?
Hi Morgan - you need to read the individual species. Generally it is 30 to 90 days, but different for each species of plant. Then, after having it in the fridge for that amount of time you just plant the seeds as normal, per the instructions.
When they have broken through and germinated, can I plant them then or put them in dirt and let them grow until it warms up? For reference to my seed needs I live in zone 7 Georgia
Hi Elizabeth - considering the time of year, I would think you may want to just Winter-Sow them. But, if they are on a paper towel and in the fridge, then I don't think they would germinate. The only seed I've seen have a germination in the fridge were White Oak acorns.
Either way, once a seed germinates on a paper towel, you should plant them (gently). As of now though I would be concerned they may freeze if they were outside, particularly in pots. If you can, or just put them in the fridge, then I really would encourage you to Winter Sow them.
Can I ask what kind of seeds, and if they have germinated?
@@growitbuildit , of course, I have wine cup, pale purple coneflower, Showy Beardtongue, Black-eyed Susan, Columbine, Coreopsis, and Red Bee Balm. They haven’t been started yet and that is why I thought I would use the paper towel method.
There is not a lot of times one has to worry about freezing here as we’ve only just now have some cold weather. We get a lot of rain here. A lot of rain.
Hi Elizabeth - your reply got auto-deleted. That has been happening quite frequently with youtube. But in my notifications, I can see part of your reply, and that you had Winecups and Pale Purple Coneflower.
Neither of those should be germinate in cold temperatures of the refrigerator. You could leave them in the fridge, and check them for mold periodically until Spring, or just plant them in pots and put them outside via winter-sowing (or just use the milkjugs). But there should definitely be enough time for the Pale Purple Coneflower to stratify for zone 7.
I don't know why your reply was auto-deleted. But if you have more questions, or there was important info I couldn't see, just email me. You can find our email on our 'about' tab of our channel page.
Joe
Question: If I don't mind when my Partridge Pea germinates can I just plant it in the fall or late summer and expect it to come up the following spring? I have a ton of seeds and I don't mind if I put a ton into the ground and only a fraction grow in, I just want something desirable to come up in the spring to help compete with undesirable weeds.
Just scatter the seed where you want it to grow in Fall. If it is somewhat open or disturbed ground, you should get lots of germination.
I love your videos. I have a couple questions I hope you don't mind answering.
I decided to do this method on some Black-Eyed Susan seeds I just bought. I was probably a little overly cautious and only made the paper towel very, very lightly damp, probably half as much as in your video. Should I dampen them more, or do you think they'd be fine? And, how long should I leave them in the refrigerator? I was guessing thirty days.
Hi Justin - 30 days should be fine. You can always check it in a few days, and if it feels dry just mist it with water. If you live in zone 6, you could probably winter sow them yet. I've winter sowed in April and had plenty of success with these...as long as the evenings get cool.
@@growitbuildit
Thank you so much.
do they seeds look different at the end of the time in the fridge? how do you know if they are ready to plant?
Hi, you just wait the allotted time for cold stratification. In my experience, you can't see any obvious difference in the seeds. The cold moist conditions aren't for imbibing water, just for simulating winter.
Just check your reference on how long to stratify. We have stratification times on articles we've written at our site growitbuildit.com. what seeds are you stratifying? I might know the time outright.
I just realized I need to do stratification. No wonder mine didn't grow last few years Bec I didn't know.
What happens if it gets moldy or roots start to formed ? I know nothing about stratification Bec I have never done this before since I always buy plants or plugs.
Thanks !
Question :
Have you ever done scarification ?
I wish seeds company needs to give information on the packets .
Hi Jin - I've had mold form before using the paper towel method for stratification. Generally that happens if it is too wet. Usually it doesn't effect all the seeds, just some (green circles emanating from specific seeds on the towel). But when that happens, I just try to select seeds that didn't have mold.
If roots start to form, then the seed has sprouted, and you can just plant it. Just be very gentle.
But I should let you know, that it being winter, you could just winter sow the seed. It is extremely easy. I do it every year, and you just let nature do the stratification for you. It really works, and it's easy. Here is a very simple step by step guide to winter sowing: growitbuildit.com/illustrated-guide-to-winter-sowing-with-pictures/
For scarification - I've done an entire video on that! Here it is: ua-cam.com/video/2GP6QUuE2JQ/v-deo.html
If you have specific questions, I may be able to answer them. Or, if I've written it up on our website, it will have accurate information for how to germinate the seed. growitbuildit.com
@@growitbuildit
Thank you, Sir ! You gave links too, awesome ! 🌸🌺
Well, I am in Orlando, FL, unfortunately we only have cold front days which is not enough only nights mostly so I considered myself living in tropical State. But wish me luck for doing everything in order for first time. Fingers cross for Spring 🌹🌸🌺
Ah, no winter sowing there! Good luck Jin!
Thanks for the video. I collected redbud seeds from my yard in February. Will they need to be stratified? If so, do I need to soak them in hot water first?
Hi Jammie - yes, they need to be scarified and then stratified. Do the boiling hot water trick I show in this video. Make sure they swell up with water. If they don't, you may have to do the hot water trick again. ua-cam.com/video/ZMxZonkEUpM/v-deo.html
Also - I have a good pic of what 'imbibed' seeds look like here: growitbuildit.com/eastern-redbud-tree-cercis-canadensis/#germinate
@@growitbuildit thanks for the information!
I have a question for you 🙋♂️, Do some people plant stratified seedlings in summer season? Do some people do this? I need to know this is because I haven’t heard more about planting stratified seedlings in summer season. I haven’t heard about this. Should stratified seedlings be planted in summer too?
If you have seeds that need stratification, and you haven't winter sowed them, then you can stratify them and plant in the summer. It is better to do so in Spring when temps are cooler. You just need to make sure you have enough time for the plant to grow after germination. If you plant stratified seeds in late summer, not long before frost, your plant may not grow that much to survive the winter.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Do I have to use sand for larger seeds? Also after I plant them in the little containers, do I use a growing medium or will regular bag soil work. Then I transplant into the ground after they get their true leaves? Thank you in advance. 😊
Hi Elizabeth - the way I think of it is that sand has a lot more water available than a paper towel, so with a large seed you want it to be able to stay moist, and as it absorbs water it could dry out with just a paper towel (it's happened to me).
For sowing into small containers after stratifying in the fridge, I use a potting mix. The kinds I normally used are mostly sphagnum peat moss. ProMix is about the best, but a bit pricey. For flowers, I usually have the containers outside. For veggies - I start them on a paper towel about 4-6 weeks before transplant time, and keep them outside in direct sun during the day, and indoors at night. I monitor the temp to get the soil hot, as tomatoes/peppers don't grow much unless the soil is hot (tropical plants).
Once there are a couple of sets of true leaves, transplant into the ground (assuming it is safe to do so - if a tender annual or veggie, make sure the danger of frost is past.)
I feel I should also mention, that since it is Winter, you could probably just Winter Sow them based on your location. It is about the easiest way to handle the stratification and planting. I do have a detailed video on the procedure. ua-cam.com/video/SKXY6dl-5Tk/v-deo.html
How do you successfully grow marigolds?
I'm sorry but I've not grown that species before.
If I've got a sandwich bag with sand, is there a limit to how many butterfly weed seeds I could do in one bag? Should I be doing just 5 or 6, or can I do a dozen or more?
Hi - you can do as many as you like or will fit, just make sure you don't damage the seed. Because the Butterfly weed seeds are so thin I always used the paper towel method when using the fridge for stratification.
Thanks for the video. Going to try this now. What if the seeds to go through warm stratification first, do i use the same process just leave them sitting outside of the fridge? How often should you check on the seeds to see if it needs moisture?
Hi Lawrence, when I had to do 'warm' stratification, I did the same process, but kept it on top of my hot water heater (which is insulated). It was basically at a temperature of 85F. If your hot water heater is hot to the touch, or above 90F, then you could try the top of the refrigerator.
Regarding checking for moisture, if the bag is sealed, no moisture should escape. But, you should check periodically for any mold. If there is too much water, you can sometimes get mold/fungus forming around the seeds.
Good luck! And I'm glad you found the video helpful!
@@growitbuildit Thank you!
I was wondering if there will be problem if you do this in summer and after they start to grow ( so 5 weeks in the fridge) you pull them out and the temperature is normally way higher than in the fridge so will they grow or this temperature difference will kill them ?
If the seeds germinate then they need to get into soil. If you manage to sprout them, I would plant them in pots and try to keep them in a garage or shed so the temperature stays cold.
The best answer though may be to collect the seed in Fall (pinecones) and just Winter Sow the seed. I did this with Northern White Cedar last year and had some decent success germinating them.
@@growitbuildit Actually I have them in a little bit of humus soil and I pulled them out 3 days ago in the shade cause they already started germinate in the fridge.I hope they will continue to grow its 33 daily and 18 during night degrees Celsius nowadays here in Macedonia
Trees can generally be over wintered in pots, as long as they don't freeze solid
Id like to know how succesful you are with seeds that generally need long stratification times like a taxus baccata. Also do you know if taxus baccata needs any other special requirements besides the long stratification time?
Hi - I have not tried that species, as I generally keep it to species native to North America. But from what I've read, soaking Yew seeds for a day or two can help soften them a bit. The trouble is Yew needs a 2-3 month warm moist period followed by an equivalent cold period. Even still, the germination make take a year or two. I've attempted one species with similar requirements, Witch Hazel. But I was unsuccessful.
However, I may have tossed them prematurely. As often these 'difficult' seeds just need a whole lot of time. This year I grew Pawpaw (10 successful), which was stratified from October until Spring, but it still didn't germinate until mid-Summer. The 2 pots I have that never germinated (with Pawpaw) are still outside, and I'm keeping them moist. As I figure they may just germinate next year.
@@growitbuildit Thank you very much for your response! I appreciate it a lot. Also very helpful video straight to the facts!
I did this with swamp milkweed and noticed the paper towel was crispy suggesting it may have had frost or freeze. Will this affect the seeds?
Hi Kim - I'm guessing the bag wasn't sealed or not enough water. It must have dried out. So it was probably partially stratified.
If it is still cool in the evenings where you live, you could probably just plant them very shallow in an area that gets morning sun and afternoon shade. Just water it in the mornings so the soil stays moist.
I'm talking about pine seeds though
Hi! How do you do the teeny lobelia seeds? In a paper towel? How long do they have to be cold? Oh--and did you say that lobelia seeds need light to germinate, and if so, is it both the red/cardinal flower and the blue lobelia that need light? I started both in peat pellets and for some reason, only one type germinated.
Hi Anna, for lobelia, I either winter-sow or don't bother stratifying. However, it is possible to stratify those tiny seeds. But, instead of stratifying in the paper towel, you just plant in a pot. Then put the pot in the fridge for a week or two. You could do this to a six-pack, or a single 4" pot.
But, I have successfully germinated Lobelia without stratification. It just takes a bit longer (2+ weeks). As far as one of them germinating but not the other, you might just need a bit of patience. In my experience, Blue Lobelia will germinate faster than Cardinal Flower.
I have Red Butterflies milkweed (Asclepias Curassavica) seeds. I'm in 9B Apache Junction, AZ. Do I need to cold stratify for this zone? I want to share these seeds and want to make sure I include instructions on how to if it is necessary. thanks!
Hi Kimberly - soaking the seeds for 24 hours should help with germination. But you shouldn't need to cold stratify these seeds.
@@growitbuildit Thanks for letting me know. Just wanted to make sure before I share the seeds at the Little Free Garden Stands.
I want to start some Goumi bushes. Can’t seem to find much on stratification - whether hot stratification or cold stratification or scarification. Not sure exactly which it needs. Any knowledge on that particular seed?
Hi Bobby - I've not heard of that plant. Sorry.
@@growitbuildit it’s supposed to be the best fruit there is health wise. Got all kind of good things in it. Even supposedly being used to fight cancer and in some cases even reverse it. I can find how to propagate it from new growth but would really like to get some seeds going. Trying a few different ways but just looking for someone who’s already had success. Will just keep experimenting. Thank you for your reply though.
Do you have any knowledge on blackberry seeds? I just noticed the package says to cold stratify for 3-5 months. 😱
They grow in warm climates, so I guess that seems nonsensical to me. Won't they just mold in the refrigerator for that long!?
Hi Candace - I've not germinated blackberry seeds. But to prevent mold, you could soak them in a 1:10 bleach to water solution for about a minute, then rinse them off. The seeds of Blackberries are pretty hard. It also might help to soak in hot tap water for a day before stratifying for 90 days in the fridge.
Great video, very informational. I don't know how much experience you have with tree seeds, but how would you specifically go about germinating them? I'm planning on starting stratification for most at around this time (late Nov - early Dec) and starting them indoors about 100 days later. Is there a different way you would go about it? Thank you!
Hi TR - The sand method works with tree seeds. I've done it on several different species. But really, the best way to do trees in my experience is to winter sow them, which mimics what mother nature does. Depending on the size, you can do it in a pot buried in the ground, or in milk jugs or little six-packs. I'll give you a link to a good article on how to wintersow, which covers the background as well as step by step method. growitbuildit.com/illustrated-guide-to-winter-sowing-with-pictures/
But for trees, you really need to know the species well. Some species have strange 'pre-treatments'. For example, Witch Hazel needs to experience two summers, then two winters in moist soil before germinating. Others like the Eastern Redbud Tree need to get a hot water treatment (scarification). And many of the seeds can't be allowed to completely dry out and need to be stored in the fridge in a baggy.
So, the absolute best thing you can do is to plant the seed to the correct depth, and mimic mother nature by winter sowing. But, first research if any scarification is needed. For scarification, I do have a good video on that too you may find helpful, if your seeds require it that is. ua-cam.com/video/2GP6QUuE2JQ/v-deo.html
And finally, I will be winter sowing several different species within a week or two. Some of the seeds I've been storing in the fridge in baggies, others I've been stratifying in a vermiculite/Sphagnum peat moss mix, which is basically sand+acidic peat moss. Some of these I've germinated before, others it is my first attempt.
@@growitbuildit Thank you for the response. I'm located in Zone 6a, SW Michigan, for reference. The only seeds I have that require scarification are the Eastern Redbuds. The rest are trees native to the upper Midwest / Southern Michigan region (American Beech, Swamp White Oak, American Sycamore, Eastern Juniper, White Spruce, Red Pine, Eastern Hemlock are some examples, which obviously some require stratification and others do not).
I do have another question, and that is, do you solely do stratification during the winter months, or do you also during Spring/Summer and start the seeds indoors/plant outside?
Thank you again.
@@growitbuildit And one last question: container-wise, what would you recommend for winter stratification? I was thinking a couple trays along with a few various plastic/paper containers (like a coffee cup). Would the seeds benefit more from something primarily enclosed?
Ok - regarding when I do stratification, I do it when I need to. But, if given the choice - always in the winter and let mother nature handle it. It is just easier that way for Spring germination. Temperatures just warm up normally, and the seeds just sprout on their own. Stuff doesn't dry out as much either. But be warned - some species take a really long time to germinate. I had some Mountain Laurel this year that didn't germinate until Mid-August, or somewhere around there. It was planted in Feb. It took that long w/ constant moist soil to germinate (cells have the moss to prove it).
For container question, the easiest thing to use would be a milk jug. You could probably use a large pot though, you just want to make sure the soil stays moist. A milk jug would have plenty of soil mass for larger seeds (acorns, beech), and it is a self sustaining greenhouse. Also, it is protected from Squirrels (they will be your nemesis with tree nuts). You can easily add water if needed. The guide I posted in my previous comment shows exactly what to do.
And man - you really have a lot of seeds there! Looks like you are going to start a forest.
Do you "knick" redbud seeds after fridge time or before? Confused...
You would scarify the seeds before the refrigerator. Now, if you look at the video on growing Redbud trees from seed - you will see that I had the best success by just soaking them in very hot water. Then, check them to make sure they actually imbibe water. Once that is done, then you stratify them in the refrigerator.
Hi
How many days should i keep my seed in refrigerator
Hi, it depends on what species. Most are 30 to 60 days.
My Sequoia seeds was in the fridge for about 16 days, and they germinated just fine. Had them on a hot bathroom floor for a week after that to make them germinate. Going to try only a week in the fridge for hazelnuts now, see if that's enough.
When you did the witch hazel in sand, how did it turn out?
It was about 3 years ago I tried sowing witch hazel. It is a tough seed to germinate. I used moist vermiculite, as that is what the references suggested. I had to give it 'two' winters and a summer before sowing. So, after keeping it in the fridge for a month, I next stored it on top of the water heater (which was about 85F) for a month. Then, I just winter sowed it. I never got any germination from it (unfortunately). I ended up buying some bare root trees from coldstreamfarm (which I highly recommend). At least 2 of the 4 are doing fine. I think one of the others is still alive too. The problem is deer, as they will browse them.
If I had to do it all over again, I think I would just try to locate a wild plant. Gather seed in the fall, and take it home and plant it outside immediately. The key thing being to plant it in an area that matches it's growing conditions. Then, if the seed was viable - nature should take its course in due time.
@@growitbuildit thank you for the response, I'll check out the bare root options. It's always fun to try different things!
A lot of the seeds Ive tried stratifying get pink around them. Is that a mold or fungus? I havent had much good success with stratifying hehe
I get the 'pink' color sometimes too. Often I think it is just coming of the seed, or if the seed came from a fruit.
Do you check on the seeds while in the fridge? My concern is that they may germinate in the bag with all that moisture..
Hi - most seeds don't germinate due to the cold temperature of the fridge. I'm actually unaware of any that would germinate prematurely.
@@growitbuildit ok got it. I’ll give it a try. Thank you for the video.
So basically if you have big seeds, you should for the sand and if the small seeds the paper towel is better?
Yes, you've got it right. Or, you can winter sow the seeds. That is a really good option, as there is basically no risk of mold.
Here is winter sowing - this is the primary way I germinate seeds. ua-cam.com/video/SKXY6dl-5Tk/v-deo.html
I kept some chestnuts and pawpaw seeds in the fridge and they got moldy after a month 🙄 what went wrong?
Hi Nina - With Pawpaw seeds, I soak them in a 1:10 bleach/water solution for a minute, then rinse in water before stratifying in the fridge. It seems to cut back on mold developing. I'm not sure if you can do it to all seeds, or if the bleach would harm the seed in some way. But for Pawpaws, it definitely works.
If you are planting them into individual pots, I would personally probably try to use them. Maybe just dunk them in some Hydrogen Peroxide (the cheap one you get in the first aid section) to kill the mold.
I really have a question for you 🙋♂️ , is it okay that I can cold stratify seeds in the mini fridge? Can I cold stratify them in the mini fridge? Is that okay? Yes or no?
Yes, as long as the temperature is around 35-40F (5C) it should be fine.
Hi everyone, this is our first time trying the paper towel method in the fridge. I started the seeds on January 13th, I just checked today (Feb 11) and some of the paper towels are getting some green mold or algae on them. Particularly my Nootka rose and Butterfly milkweed. The inside of the paper towel seems okay so far, most of the green stuff is on the outside. Should I be worried or is this pretty normal? Thanks for all your help!
Hi - it can happen if there was bacteria/fungi on your seeds or towel. I can't speak for the rose, but the Butterfly milkweed should have met all stratification requirements by now (13Jan-12Feb). You should be able to plant that one.
For the rose, if the inside of the towel is ok, you could remove the seeds and transfer to a new towel. Or dunk in a mixture of one part bleach to 10 parts water for a minute, and put it in a new towel.
@@growitbuildit okay thanks for your help!
Does anyone have a good tip for getting rid of aphids on a new honeysuckle plant? I don’t want to use pesticides bc the honeysuckle is under the fence where I put out bird food & many of the birds skull food there that the ground birds pick up all day long & I don’t want to accidentally kill any birds or squirrels that I feed nor do I want pesticides in my yard bc I’m disabled & share my yard with 2 service dogs. I owe it to them to keep our surroundings as safe as can be. I’m new to gardening in Fort Collins, Colorado & these little tiny aphids are nothing like the ones I used to battles in Boston with my roses. I’ve tried spraying them with my hose & using dawn soap, but so fat I’m losing the battle & sadly I’m afraid I brought it home from the store this way bc I wasn’t wearing my glasses & I thought I could see something moving every so often around the leaves, but I wanted a honeysuckle to go with a climbing rose & let my heart get the better of my brain. Last time I go to the store without glasses! Lesson learned. I’ve just put in a complete garden from scratch including soil & I’m kicking myself for risking the health of my entire garden over one honeysuckle plant. Ugh. Lol. Worse, I wanted jasmine to plant with my climbing rose, but couldn’t find it so honeysuckle was my second choice. Lol. It was ready to bloom & now all the leaves are curled & the blooms are filled with aphids as are the undersides of the leaves. Seriously thinking about cutting it back to the ground. I’ll take any tips anyone offers. Thanks! Loved, the video & I’m hoping to try it one Day.
Hi Sherri - I have also used a hose, and soapy water and found both to be OK at controlling aphids. The best method though, although gross, is to just squish them with your fingers.
The thing is, no matter what you try, there will always be more. Hose, soap, squishing - even lady bugs won't get them all. Again, this is just my experience. I hope someone answers you who has a 100% effective solution.
I was going to suggest the spraying off with a garden hose, but see that you have tried. To me it's being drastic when you gotta get out the hose, but spraying them off the plant and onto the ground does work. Probably the thing to do when you water each day or so. Neem oil is an option. I am going to be trying it again myself. In the past was skeptical of spraying anything on my plants and have killed plants with Neem (over did it), but Neem is generally safe with good bugs and Earthworms and bad for the pests. It says to stop two weeks before harvest for it to break down and wash off. Predator bugs are needed, like the Ladybug. You can pick up a container of them at a local grow store or order online and turn them loose in the garden. They are fond of eating Aphids and Spider Mites. For Thrips, Gnats and White Flies I use the yellow sticky sheets. They work well. The blue ones not so much.
And poppyseeds
Trust me when you start growing more different types of wildflowers you'll find out that putting them in just the fridge is not enough to get them to sprout.
🌱🌿🪴THANKS ‼️
You are very welcome Marlise! Good luck!