Getting the end float of the rockers within spec makes a big difference to engine rattle. There are no shims and from memory it's a matter of pinching the mounting pillars together and gently start tightening down the head nuts while checking the float with feeler gauges. Take your time, It's a right faff of a job but well worth the effort when the engine runs so quietly afterwards.
Good find on the broken ring, nothing worse then finishing a job and then learning you have to do it again to fix something you missed. Looking forward to seeing the progress on this project. This project is really great for someone like me, I have a rough understanding of how engines work, but seeing the same style of engine, limits how much I can learn. Having such a unique style engine on the channels, helps me in learning more about the fundamentals. Great work as always. Also putting it out there, if you need help with editing/post production of your videos, feel free to reach out, I be excited to help where I can.
When replacing the push rod tube seals you do not need to remove the head. Remove the rocker arm and pull the cylinder free to where you have enough space to remove the rubber seals. Coat the rubber seals with a silicone type grease I use Dow Corning 111 steam cylinder grease. The seals need to move a little in the block and on the tubes. Never torque the cylinder stud nuts tighter than 24 ftlbs. The treads in the block can pull out when torqued tighter than 24 ftlbs. Join the Airheads, Curt the Minnesota Airmarshal of the Airheads Beemer Club.
so glad I found your channel! I'm looking at buying a 1995 GSPD with 117,000 kms. It looks mint but seeing you do the work gives me confidence that I can do it. Dealers up here won't service a BMW older than 20 years. cheers from BC , Canada
your attention to detail and your calm demeanor makes watching worth while......no hurry here....just do it right.......will continue to watch......Oh BTW....got the diode for turn signal indicator corrected and wiring done.....time electronic ignition and fix sticky throttle sleeve and we are ready to go.....1970 honda cb350
If I needed my bike worked on by someone, you would obviously be the choice. Your skill set and common sense to problem solving are spot on. I really enjoy your videos, keep up the good work!
Good work. The big O-ring around the base of the cylinder should have a thin coating of Hylomar before installing the cylinder, and the gaps in the three piston rings should be 120° apart with none pointing at the ground🕊
I would've planned on putting some new rings in anyway because of the mileage. I worked at a BMW dealership during that time and that model was the only airhead that I even considered buying.
Good point, I don’t think he checked the ring gaps. The cylinder sounded brand new at 50k miles, which is sone tribute to BMW. But something must be the wear component, and it’s ideally the rings.
Taylor cool video, really cool bike, I'm glad you found that busted ring now instead of down the road. I see you still have the KLR there, you may want to keep it until you get the Dakar all tuned and set up to your liking. Looking forward to the new content always.
I am not into BMW, but this older in my eyes is probably one of the coolest bikes they made. I am looking forward to all the videos your going to make on this restoration, but most of all I know your busy with all the work you have stacked up, could you please plan a multi day ride some where & have yourself an adventure ride. Either by yourself or better yet with another adventure person or even a multi day with a group. I would really like to see you have fun with this machine!!!!!
More great content. For future reference, you can leave the head-to-cylinder (@12 and 6 o'clock) intact, pull back just enough to remove the wrist pin circlip then remove the unit together. The cylinders are Nikasil, extremely hard. That's why the cross hatching is still there at 57k (and will be much longer). Welcome to airheads! The head gasket actually only goes on one way, the wrong way will have the pushrods rubbing on the holes. Also, the top studs provide oil to the rocker arms, ergo the need for o-rings. If you run the bike without the valve cover, you'll see (or should see) oil running along the top studs down to the rocker arms.
Always do all cylinders at the same time. That way you know if you need other parts.One piece oil rings tend to break when they are removed from the bore that is what has happened to yoi. If that oil ring was broken before you removed the cylinder it would have been very obvious due to a cloud of smoke behind you . You now run a very high chance that the left cylinder will oil ring will break upon start up. I would redo the left cylinder with fresh rings also
My '92 R100 GS with oversized pistons is burning a lot of oil (0.5 liters every 300 km) but without blue smoke. During winter, I'm going to pull the cylinders and look inside. My guess is worn out valve guidances or also a broken piston ring.
So glad you're working on an Airhead. I'm also in the process of changing pushrod tube seals, unfortunately it had to stop as one of the cylinder studs stripped it's thread during re-torquing (a known possibility on certain Airhead studs because of the amount of engine block they have to bind on). During my work it was recommended to check the faces on the cam followers and potentially change these whilst everything is apart, will you be doing that as well? Thanks for all the great content BTW, been following for years. In fact you're the reason I bought a BMW to teach myself and to cafe it in the first place 👍 Also, Chris Harris BMW Service is an invaluable source of Airhead knowledge here on YT.
finding a broken ring is always a stress inducing proposition. hopefully it didn't score up the cylinder too bad. i suppose before you start riding it hard is the time to find it though. good thing you decided to swap out the seals on both sides.
Agreed, very “old school”. It’s how I work on my bikes, but I’m in my 60s and have been learning how to use tools for 45years, still learning. Recently elected to rebuilt both wheels on my 1977 Suzuki GT380B. Satisfying to ride a machine you’ve rebuilt from the smallest component back up, and for it to run & ride like it just rolled out of Hamamatsu. Kudos those old design engineers, they did an incredibly sound job. I doubt they expected, when drafting this bike in the late 1960s that there’d be some old guy tooling around on it in 2021!
@@y4nnickschmitt only on a four stroke! I’ve had a ring break on a two stroke multi, and if there’s a broken ring, it usually finds it’s way into a port & will trash an entire cylinder quite easily.
only found your channel recently and been happily binge watching, i'm enjoying this series of videos but i was wondering about an older series you had going during quarantine, has anything happened with that triumph you were tinkering with ?
Don't you wonder where the other portions of the broken rings are? Could they be inside your crankcase? Might it be worth trying to get it out so that it would not cause further damage when the engine is running?
I’ve sometimes treasured ability to proceed over cost & ordered parts to renew at current bore plus at one over, so when I strip the motor, I’ll be able to take it to my rebore guy if needed. I’m a very long term planner, too. I reason, if not this rebuild, then the next, those oversize top end parts will be there, when they may be unobtanium. My GT380, which is on second oversize, I knew if it develops a rattle, it’s going to be v expensive! No factory parts to go one more oversize, but a genius supplier found that in Italy only, the capacity was a little larger, so I have a stock top end kit from Italy, which I think is +2mm. Finally, I was super lucky five years ago to see advertised a set of new old stock cylinders! They were in Malaysia, still in their original boxes, blackened grease proof paper in the bores. I’ve never seen a single NOS cylinder for the later model, which has thicker exhaust studs, but to find a set is a miracle. So if ever I need to rebore, I‘ll use these! This bike should be in good order when they pop me into a grave.
@@matias7497 lets say you're tearing down a left cylinder for any gasket leak, replacing the gasket and reinstall it. Now you do the gasket to the other side and once open you find a cracked piston, a broken ring or whatever damage require to replace parts in both cylinders. That means you'll take off again the first one.
There are C-rings on either side of the piston wrist pin on my 1973 BMW R75/5. In the video you only fitted one. Is this correct for the later models ?
One of the best bikes ever built. I love my PD from 1993
As an airhead owner myself I have been looking forward to this project. As you say Taylor, good job you found the broken ring! 👍🏻
Your confidence and attention to detail reflects your love of this profession 👍👏
also polluting your neighborhood while cleaning you bike -priceless.
I like that you do pay attention to detail and methodically think things through.
Getting the end float of the rockers within spec makes a big difference to engine rattle. There are no shims and from memory it's a matter of pinching the mounting pillars together and gently start tightening down the head nuts while checking the float with feeler gauges. Take your time, It's a right faff of a job but well worth the effort when the engine runs so quietly afterwards.
Good find on the broken ring, nothing worse then finishing a job and then learning you have to do it again to fix something you missed. Looking forward to seeing the progress on this project. This project is really great for someone like me, I have a rough understanding of how engines work, but seeing the same style of engine, limits how much I can learn. Having such a unique style engine on the channels, helps me in learning more about the fundamentals. Great work as always.
Also putting it out there, if you need help with editing/post production of your videos, feel free to reach out, I be excited to help where I can.
When replacing the push rod tube seals you do not need to remove the head. Remove the rocker arm and pull the cylinder free to where you have enough space to remove the rubber seals. Coat the rubber seals with a silicone type grease I use Dow Corning 111 steam cylinder grease. The seals need to move a little in the block and on the tubes.
Never torque the cylinder stud nuts tighter than 24 ftlbs. The treads in the block can pull out when torqued tighter than 24 ftlbs.
Join the Airheads, Curt the Minnesota Airmarshal of the Airheads Beemer Club.
I wanted to replace the three O-rings under the cylinder while I was in there but I appreciate the tip.
Excellent tips Curt
so glad I found your channel! I'm looking at buying a 1995 GSPD with 117,000 kms. It looks mint but seeing you do the work gives me confidence that I can do it. Dealers up here won't service a BMW older than 20 years. cheers from BC , Canada
Lovely bike , looks in really good condition. The Paris Dakar is a very collectable bike with very strong prices here in Europe.
your attention to detail and your calm demeanor makes watching worth while......no hurry here....just do it right.......will continue to watch......Oh BTW....got the diode for turn signal indicator corrected and wiring done.....time electronic ignition and fix sticky throttle sleeve and we are ready to go.....1970 honda cb350
Sounds great fun & a triumph when you find that special part!
Great video Taylor... glad you found the broken ring when you did.
If I needed my bike worked on by someone, you would obviously be the choice. Your skill set and common sense to problem solving are spot on. I really enjoy your videos, keep up the good work!
Joshua Jackson still at motorcycle repair. Love it!
Good work. The big O-ring around the base of the cylinder should have a thin coating of Hylomar before installing the cylinder, and the gaps in the three piston rings should be 120° apart with none pointing at the ground🕊
Old airhead wrench, here. You're doing a great job!
Old airhead wrench here also. Of course I’m referring to my exhaust flange wrench. It’s hanging on the wall about 5 ft from me.
My favourite project so far. Awesome work. I love ADVs and I love the mechanics of these older BMWs.
Nicely done! Owned same identical GSPD. Kinda regret selling it. Great video - excellent explanations.
Nice bike, fun to work on. I put over 200,000 miles on my 900 and drove over 100 mph most of its life.
Inspiring level of detail. Thanks. Makes me feel better about fixing my own issues haha
I would've planned on putting some new rings in anyway because of the mileage. I worked at a BMW dealership during that time and that model was the only airhead that I even considered buying.
Good point, I don’t think he checked the ring gaps. The cylinder sounded brand new at 50k miles, which is sone tribute to BMW. But something must be the wear component, and it’s ideally the rings.
The mysterious sound of falling parts is never pleasant but at least it was found 👍🏼
Taylor cool video, really cool bike, I'm glad you found that busted ring now instead of down the road. I see you still have the KLR there, you may want to keep it until you get the Dakar all tuned and set up to your liking. Looking forward to the new content always.
great job exellent work taylor see you in the next video
I am not into BMW, but this older in my eyes is probably one of the coolest bikes they made. I am looking forward to all the videos your going to make on this restoration, but most of all I know your busy with all the work you have stacked up, could you please plan a multi day ride some where & have yourself an adventure ride. Either by yourself or better yet with another adventure person or even a multi day with a group. I would really like to see you have fun with this machine!!!!!
More great content. For future reference, you can leave the head-to-cylinder (@12 and 6 o'clock) intact, pull back just enough to remove the wrist pin circlip then remove the unit together. The cylinders are Nikasil, extremely hard. That's why the cross hatching is still there at 57k (and will be much longer). Welcome to airheads! The head gasket actually only goes on one way, the wrong way will have the pushrods rubbing on the holes. Also, the top studs provide oil to the rocker arms, ergo the need for o-rings. If you run the bike without the valve cover, you'll see (or should see) oil running along the top studs down to the rocker arms.
Mine had over 100k on it and the cross hatching was still there!
Always do all cylinders at the same time. That way you know if you need other parts.One piece oil rings tend to break when they are removed from the bore that is what has happened to yoi. If that oil ring was broken before you removed the cylinder it would have been very obvious due to a cloud of smoke behind you . You now run a very high chance that the left cylinder will oil ring will break upon start up. I would redo the left cylinder with fresh rings also
Nice to see more regular videos! Following closely.
Man! That's rough. I hope the bore is okay. While you are there, do check the cam followers on both sides.
My '92 R100 GS with oversized pistons is burning a lot of oil (0.5 liters every 300 km) but without blue smoke. During winter, I'm going to pull the cylinders and look inside. My guess is worn out valve guidances or also a broken piston ring.
So glad you're working on an Airhead. I'm also in the process of changing pushrod tube seals, unfortunately it had to stop as one of the cylinder studs stripped it's thread during re-torquing (a known possibility on certain Airhead studs because of the amount of engine block they have to bind on). During my work it was recommended to check the faces on the cam followers and potentially change these whilst everything is apart, will you be doing that as well? Thanks for all the great content BTW, been following for years. In fact you're the reason I bought a BMW to teach myself and to cafe it in the first place 👍 Also, Chris Harris BMW Service is an invaluable source of Airhead knowledge here on YT.
finding a broken ring is always a stress inducing proposition. hopefully it didn't score up the cylinder too bad. i suppose before you start riding it hard is the time to find it though. good thing you decided to swap out the seals on both sides.
Good job. I need the same work done to my 76 r90 .
You should check out the clutch system, when its wear out the clutch slips when engine is hot, 100k miles or so
Lube those splines!!!
Awesome bike! Enjoy the chill music. See you on the next one.
Watched one video and subscribed. You are M539 Restorations but in the motorcycle world! Great video.
World wide, engineers who have the attention to detail shown by this young man, are sadly, very thin on the ground!
Agreed, very “old school”. It’s how I work on my bikes, but I’m in my 60s and have been learning how to use tools for 45years, still learning.
Recently elected to rebuilt both wheels on my 1977 Suzuki GT380B. Satisfying to ride a machine you’ve rebuilt from the smallest component back up, and for it to run & ride like it just rolled out of Hamamatsu. Kudos those old design engineers, they did an incredibly sound job. I doubt they expected, when drafting this bike in the late 1960s that there’d be some old guy tooling around on it in 2021!
I like your attitude.
A broken ring is a good reason for a big bore kit! Com 'on man!
And don't forget the big carb kit and to port and polish the heads too!
LOL
Great vid as always!
Damn that's a beautiful car! Awesome motorcycle as well..
hi - good job on the bike. what is this bashplate/feetprotector thingy? also - where to get this high fender?
Great video Taylor cheers from New Zealand.
what a cool rare bike. great work
Great video. Will help me when I finally get round to pulling my 76 R100/7 apart 👍🏻
PS In the U.K. we call it a gudgeon pin
Indeed, we never call these wrist pins.
Beautiful bike! Thanks for sharing.
Did you check and adjust the rocker arm end play?
awesome vid, nice change up from the 550s
It only looked like part of the piston ring, where is/was the rest?
Hell yeah love the work man
Where did you get the manual and parts?
Was the other half of the oil ring still in the groove on the piston? Any damage to the bore?
Yes, all the pieces were still in the groove. Luckily no damage to the cylinder walls.
@@ClassicOctane Yeah its amazing how a piston with fucked up rings or cracked ringland can do no harm. Boggles my mind....✌️
@@y4nnickschmitt only on a four stroke! I’ve had a ring break on a two stroke multi, and if there’s a broken ring, it usually finds it’s way into a port & will trash an entire cylinder quite easily.
@@GT380manTrue. I thought it was fairly obvious that I was talking about 4 strokes though 😉
only found your channel recently and been happily binge watching, i'm enjoying this series of videos but i was wondering about an older series you had going during quarantine, has anything happened with that triumph you were tinkering with ?
totally love watching this love the bike i have the 2015 r 1200 GSA and totally love it .....
Don't you wonder where the other portions of the broken rings are? Could they be inside your crankcase? Might it be worth trying to get it out so that it would not cause further damage when the engine is running?
Other parts was still in the ring groove.
Yup, I've made the mistake of assuming I had standard bores and ordered the wrong rings.
I’ve sometimes treasured ability to proceed over cost & ordered parts to renew at current bore plus at one over, so when I strip the motor, I’ll be able to take it to my rebore guy if needed. I’m a very long term planner, too. I reason, if not this rebuild, then the next, those oversize top end parts will be there, when they may be unobtanium.
My GT380, which is on second oversize, I knew if it develops a rattle, it’s going to be v expensive! No factory parts to go one more oversize, but a genius supplier found that in Italy only, the capacity was a little larger, so I have a stock top end kit from Italy, which I think is +2mm. Finally, I was super lucky five years ago to see advertised a set of new old stock cylinders! They were in Malaysia, still in their original boxes, blackened grease proof paper in the bores. I’ve never seen a single NOS cylinder for the later model, which has thicker exhaust studs, but to find a set is a miracle. So if ever I need to rebore, I‘ll use these! This bike should be in good order when they pop me into a grave.
How many kilometers on this bike?
I’d like to look into buying one if you have any advice
I enjoy your videos finally I'm very helpful and knowledgeable but I have one question where are you going to shave
That was great man.. Thanks
Great job!
My questions to you...where is the other half of the piston ring...and is that something to worry about?
The rest is still in the groove.
Never take down and reinstall a cylinder without taking off the other side.
why
@@matias7497 lets say you're tearing down a left cylinder for any gasket leak, replacing the gasket and reinstall it. Now you do the gasket to the other side and once open you find a cracked piston, a broken ring or whatever damage require to replace parts in both cylinders. That means you'll take off again the first one.
Did you find the rest of that oil ring? Because the fragment you showed us isn't the whole ring.
They rest is still in the groove.
There are C-rings on either side of the piston wrist pin on my 1973 BMW R75/5. In the video you only fitted one. Is this correct for the later models ?
I never works on BMW but I just rebuilt Ural and it exactly the same process
you really should measure the bore instead of the piston to confirm the size rings you need
Yes but where.s the rest of the oil ring ?
Does anyone know who plays the guitar music on these videos? I really like it but can't find who plays it.
Trying To Escape by Arc De Soleil
@@stefanpia5419 Great thank you so much.
is that gray hair i see popping up in your beard????
Why didnt you changed rings? In India mechanics change rings whenever they open cylinder.
@Scott Riverwood yes until you ordered new rings for 1 piston which were broken but 1st cylinder you reused rings.
OT: Oberer Todpunkt
😀
Please return to the old Honda bikes
Superior German engineering. Right!
I like your channel, but pressure washer an oily and greasy engine on the driveway? Come on, we have 2021. Think about the environment
Great job!