Drop sidestand as far as you can reach, lean bike to left putting some pressure on stand. Back bike up until sidestand is all the way forward. Pull bike back while leaning it to left and step off to left. Damn, I love that bike!
A little background on myself before I start. I've been riding and owned BMWs since 1982 and have maintained everyone of them myself. This included two airheads. A 1977 R100/7 and a 1984 R100RS. Between these two bikes, I put roughly 280 thousand miles on, much of it in Germany. My lifetime total is around 750 thousand. The idle on your GS in this video is so bad I almost passed out. Unless you forgot to tighten the valve adjusts all the way down and they've loosened up gone way out, unsynced valves between the sides will not cause as bad of an idle in this video. The rocking from side is almost as bad as if the bike was running on one cylinder. If you have made sure that you have equal play on the throttle cables on both sides, you need to adjust the idle speed on one side or the other until you get some smoothness. You do this by feel before attempting to sync it. If your carb balancer is showing that things are in sync, it is not working. Off idle on your R100 sounded horrible as well. If I remember correctly, I would sync at 2500 to 3000 rpm for the cables off idle. I used a vacuum balancer, but I got so good at balancing with feel and sound I really didn't needed. I mainly used the meter to check myself. The last time I owned an airhead was in 1994 so I don't have any videos showing how to do it. I did find one that actually covers more than I ever did. Matt Parkhouse is who did the video. I recommend you check it out. ua-cam.com/video/5bmJ0iYBYgQ/v-deo.html Once you get the sync dialled in the bike will feel SO much better. Almost forgot, check the choke to make sure it's not hanging up on one side or the other. this can throw things off a lot. Good luck and enjoy!
Regarding the carburetors, when synchronise, attach the vacuum meters, take a piece of plastic/wood to wedge into the throttle handle, lock it at around 1500 rpm, then synchronise the cables watching the vacuum readings, it's the only way to get it perfect 😊
The valve train noise is due to the rocker arm shaft having too much end play. Manuals don't tell you how to do this, it is quite a small end play, 0.03 - 0.07 mm. You need a 8" c-clamp and a couple of sockets to get it done. You will loosen the two head bolts holding the shaft, doing it at TDC, and squeezing the pillow blocks together with the c-clamp and socket spacers on each side. Sometimes it takes a couple of trys to get it right. Of course you retorque the head bolts too.
Sounds good to me. On adjusting the valves get 4 feeler gages, they have them on bmw sites with plastic handles. You really must adjust both sides Back and forth. People will say, it doesn't make a difference, but it does, one side affects the other ever so slightly. Also turn the crank by hand and re-measure after. Slight differences do matter. Adjusting perfectly is an art.
The kickstand is part of the bike's character and identity. I wouldn't change mine for anything. I kick it down with my heel at first, then I push it the rest of the way with my toes. It takes a little practice to get the calve muscle flexible enough to do it.
Like I said a couple of months ago, Airheads are just as addictive as Honda's. Two brilliantly engineered marques. I hope that you take some time out on the ole girl and get a camping trip in. Well done Taylor.
Great videos and great bike. I have a 1990 with the small tech and round clock on the dash with a metal headlight guard. Bought it in '94 and love it. Yours looks much cleaner. Thank you for making these videos. Oh the kickstand. I have always gotten off the bike to put down the kickstand. I just got use to it. The weirdest solution was a "pull cord" from a small engine that had a pulley on the cylinder guard to "Pull" the kickstand down.
You can use the carb balancers to measure the cable pull as well, if they're balanced at idle they will go out of sysnc if the cables don't align. Trick I used on my old R80RT. Very handsome bike. PS the valve noise is probably not the clearances if you've just checked them (Generally they run well with a generous gapping anyway) but on some models there's end play on the rocker arms which needs to be shimmed. Worth investigating if the valve clearances themselves are good.
At 6'7" I still struggled with the OEM side stand so bit the bullet and bought a Migsel replacement which cures the problem and even looks good! Not cheap though. Yours sounds good to me. A tappety engine is preferable to a silent one. I have just replaced the fork seals - a relatively easy job with no need to remove the forks. PD aficionados recommend 15w oil in the right hand fork (which deals with the rebound damping) and 10w in the left hand (compression damping) fork. Yours is leaking on the same side as mine was so check your brake pads for contamination. Mine had to be replaced. My '91 has 35k on it and still rides like new. I even prefer it to my R1200GS. It's a keeper. I'm really enjoying this series of videos. Good work! Thank you.
Ah memories, when doing the cable adjustment i would put a vice grip on the twist grip lightly against the brake lever and have it rev about 1500rpm and hold it there and adjust the cable, with your vacuum gauges, don’t worry about the valve noise that’s normal being air cooled, that’s a beautiful bike mate.
As many said, you can roll the bike back to put pressure on the stand. There are aftermarkets that stay down. Otherwise, the airhead should be parked on the center stand anyways... avoids oil seeping through on that lefthand cylinder.
Been looking at these because I love how they sound and look, I don't plan on using it off road but more to have fun on through the local country lanes. I was looking at a Ducati 1198s and i know two very different bikes but hopefully the GS will be just as much fun without scaring myself to death.
At about 14:15 when the bike is idling and you take off talking about the clutch engagement, it seemed like the bike has a very rough idle. So rough that I first thought that only one cylinder was firing. Maybe balancing the carbs like Peter Ferryman mentioned could get a smoother idle?
Regarding the speedo cable. check it where it plugs in by the driveshaft near your right hand foot. It may need to be tightened down underneath the boot. As for capability of you working on the bike. Anything you will need to do you can do yourself with a little knowledge and effort you shouldn't need to take it to a dealer. It is one of the great benefits of owning this bike that you can be almost anywhere in the world and work on it yourself.
Both the throttle and choke cables need end plays of between 0.5 - 1.0 mm. The initial settings of the carbs before syncing them are: Carb Mixture Jets - 2 turns out from seated position (rich Mixture). Idle Screws - 1 turn in from just touching arm. Then: Adj idle 1000 rpm, then air balance. Adj carb mix by screwing in to max rpm/smoothness. ReAdjust idle and check air balance. Adj cable end plays at 3000 rpm to air balance. Adj cable lengths to keep free play intact at 0.5 - 1.0 mm. You should have a clear mirror when you drive, without annoying blurred vibration.
Yup, the only way I’ve found for the side kick is to kill the bike and step off and drop the stand. Had her for years(1988) and have always wonder about that design. Safety issue.? You never forget to put your side stand up:)
Speedo and odometer may be more than just the cable. Would start with the cable. If that does not fix it, there are a couple of places that service speedo/odometers. One is Terry Vrla. You can find him on the internet. He has my R80ST instruments now. He could at least advise you if needed.
The engine is off, adjust one cable to specs, then twist the throttle until the slack on the adjusted cable reaches 0, then adjust the other cable until no slack, and there you go identical slack on both cables
If the speedometer is mechanical, the issue is probably related to the "alignment" of the cable/cogwheel. Try to remove it, turn the wheel a bit and insert it again. Repeat if necessary.
I had a feeling you would get leaking fork seals in your previous vids, buy yourself a fork saver. They go between the tyre and triple tree which stops the constant pressure on the forks being compressed while loaded on trailers and bench lifts 👍 very nice bike she's a beauty 😍
Yep. And when hauling, loosen the straps when you park. Keep it on a center stand, not a kickstand when you get home. We always just made little custom fork blocks out of wood for each bike.
@@stevebell4906 Where I work(construction) a common refrain is "hey we're not building a Swiss watch here". And my R100GS clocks are toast. My pseudo HPN inspired GS will have electronic gauges.
@@bernibeckmann9753 I had a K 100 RT....The forum was full of comments about those original gauges and Palo Alto even commented on them...it seemed that they were never intended as designed to be mounted outside in the weather...but were always supposed to to be mounted inside outside of the weather in an instrument panel or cockpit...and they were never intended to be weather proof... Mine wasn't working when I bought the bike and restored it...it had little plastic gears inside that just crumbled...Palo Alto had replacements that were upgraded to a different and better material...You had to know the tooth count on the replacement...to make it read the right indication for your speed... Many people on the forum just ignored it and replaced with a digital bike sped o from a bicycle shop....cheaper and more accurate and reliable and waterproof...Now a days your GPS is even better...but you lose that vintage and original look...
Yeah, you can adjust the valves till the cows come home and still have noise due to those pesky rocker arm shafts being just ever so slightly loose. They make the exact same sound as a loose tappet. When adjusted correctly, the bike makes very very little noise from the heads. When I finally figured this out, it was like I was riding a new bike...no lie!
Nice bike!, And would you be able to do a kickstart replacement video having some difficulty with the spring the kickstart will go down but won't come back up and having some difficulty turning it over with kick start but I'm able to run it with the starter
I have to get off the bike and then kick out the side stand - not found another way to do it! - With the tripometer try pulling the reset button up (out) and see if starts to work again?
In Germany the sidestand must be swinging back. A safety feature which is obligatory or else you don‘t pass the „TÜV“ road test every two years. Earlier BMW‘s like my 1973 R75/5 don‘t have a retractable sidestand which led to dome dicussions with the tester. I was able to convert it with patrs fom a later model. If the sidestand is not spring loaded there must be a kill switch which interrupts the ignition when the sidestand is out.
I'm really really enjoying the BMW videos and delighted to hear you might consider some more BMW stuff. I love the Honda rebuilds but for some reason I find the BMW stuff to be more interesting and inspiring 🤷🏻♂️ Awesome work as always 👏
By the way … having just watched your KLR videos too. I grew up on on Killers but ultimately let it go when I got the GSPD. More range, more comfort, as nimble, just as easy to work on. And cooler! 😎
Exactly. Can also use the short circuit method using 2 old spokes that need to be cut to approx. 3 inches. The nipples are then screwed on to the spark plug (happen to have same thread) and fix at 1500 rpm. Then short circuit left and then right and observe the rpm differences in drop.
just a guy adjusting some carbs on his drive with nature sounds and a nice copse in the background along side a classic muscle car. what's not to like!
I wonder if making the mixture as lean as possible is the right move on an air cooled bike used at slow speed though I always set my old trail bikes a bit rich, makes them run cooler I don't really care about losing a bit of power for that.
Yes. I get off and then kick out the stand.. not great is it. Dreamboat is right dude! I laughed when you said parts look like they're taken off like a car. Half the parts in this engine look like they're right off a Beetle! The coils? Hahaha
Kick out the stand whilst seated, lean the bike over to the left and roll back a couple inches :-) My tappets are louder on LHS. They do rock sideways and that can be adjusted or shimmed out. Of course, your hearing may not be as great as you hope it might be! I can hear birdsong clearly on my left, but not so much on my right. Too many metal concerts and steelworks. Lovely bike.
There's one of these Paris Dakar's being auctioned on Bring A Trailer right now. I'll be curious to see what it goes for. I'm not familiar with this model at all.
@@matthulstrunk6977 tried that as well as whisper kits all sorts of screens and even custom made earplugs.....all helped but was still very noisy..shoei helmet
Back in the day.... we removed the rear boot on the carbs and used a flat SU carb sink with ball gage and did them one at a time, old school, and that right side... you need to adjust the valve's again, it's the intake side. We did center stand for off and on.
My R100GS is "louder" on the right as well. The side stand just SUCKS! I get off, holding the front brake and balancing the bike, then deploy the stand. There are some people out there that build a regular type side stand but I hardly think it's worth 300 bucks.
I found the riding style called "the body english" works best for this bike. Sit square on the seat like at a kitchen chair and push down on the inside footpeg this transfers my 100 kgs to the hight of the footpeg and so develops less torque. To corner start from the outside as soon as you see centre line fold it over like a spitfire start from the centre and fold towards the edge of the road to corner the other way. You'll have to get a bit of practise in till it becomes second nature. If I'm teaching granny to suck eggs sorry
Useful session, thx. Could you consider doing a "How to..." video on fixing older carb bikes that are hard to start, especially in winter. Keep up the great work man.
T, if one side is ticking louder---check the end float on the rocker arms. Those should be shimmed on your bike. There should be no play ---up/down---but the RA should be able to move freely, otherwise. MAX BMW has a great parts fiche---if you've not seen it---that will show exploded views of all the parts components on the bike, including the shims for the RA. Good luck
That bike does NOT use shims to adjust the rocker arm shaft end play. The shaft is supported on pillow blocks that will move after you back off the head nuts to 10 lbs. Typically, the shaft is too loose and a c-clamp with socket spacers on each side for clearing the shaft end will close it up nicely. However, it might take a few tries because when you retorque the head bolts they will move a bit.
The needles on your sync gauge were perfectly still. Are they like that when you sync a Honda 4? When I sync my CB750 carbs the gauge needles aren't perfectly still like that, they bounce around a bit, even with dampening tubes.
The stock side stand was a sad joke on these bikes, impossible to put down while sitting on the bike. I never used it, would just get off the bike and put it up on the center stand. Since I was getting off the bike with no stand down it could be a PITA specially if I had bags/luggage strapped on the back rack. Getting on wasn't as bad as I would climb on with the center stand down and just ride off the center stand. Somebody did make an aftermarket side stand for these that worked as a normal side stand should but I was always too cheap to get one.
Get some ground pressure on the sidestand and then drag the bike back to lodge it into place. It's a shitty desgn supossed to make things safer - just makes things far more complicated than they need be.
Drop sidestand as far as you can reach, lean bike to left putting some pressure on stand. Back bike up until sidestand is all the way forward. Pull bike back while leaning it to left and step off to left. Damn, I love that bike!
That was my process on the R100 I used to ride.
A little background on myself before I start. I've been riding and owned BMWs since 1982 and have maintained everyone of them myself. This included two airheads. A 1977 R100/7 and a 1984 R100RS. Between these two bikes, I put roughly 280 thousand miles on, much of it in Germany. My lifetime total is around 750 thousand.
The idle on your GS in this video is so bad I almost passed out. Unless you forgot to tighten the valve adjusts all the way down and they've loosened up gone way out, unsynced valves between the sides will not cause as bad of an idle in this video. The rocking from side is almost as bad as if the bike was running on one cylinder. If you have made sure that you have equal play on the throttle cables on both sides, you need to adjust the idle speed on one side or the other until you get some smoothness. You do this by feel before attempting to sync it. If your carb balancer is showing that things are in sync, it is not working.
Off idle on your R100 sounded horrible as well. If I remember correctly, I would sync at 2500 to 3000 rpm for the cables off idle. I used a vacuum balancer, but I got so good at balancing with feel and sound I really didn't needed. I mainly used the meter to check myself. The last time I owned an airhead was in 1994 so I don't have any videos showing how to do it. I did find one that actually covers more than I ever did. Matt Parkhouse is who did the video. I recommend you check it out. ua-cam.com/video/5bmJ0iYBYgQ/v-deo.html
Once you get the sync dialled in the bike will feel SO much better. Almost forgot, check the choke to make sure it's not hanging up on one side or the other. this can throw things off a lot. Good luck and enjoy!
How do you hear the idle is bad?
Regarding the carburetors, when synchronise, attach the vacuum meters, take a piece of plastic/wood to wedge into the throttle handle, lock it at around 1500 rpm, then synchronise the cables watching the vacuum readings, it's the only way to get it perfect 😊
Thanks Peter, that was going to be my question and you just answered it!
@@cbrocetti6916 happy to answer your question!
The valve train noise is due to the rocker arm shaft having too much end play. Manuals don't tell you how to do this, it is quite a small end play, 0.03 - 0.07 mm. You need a 8" c-clamp and a couple of sockets to get it done. You will loosen the two head bolts holding the shaft, doing it at TDC, and squeezing the pillow blocks together with the c-clamp and socket spacers on each side. Sometimes it takes a couple of trys to get it right. Of course you retorque the head bolts too.
Sounds good to me. On adjusting the valves get 4 feeler gages, they have them on bmw sites with plastic handles. You really must adjust both sides Back and forth. People will say, it doesn't make a difference, but it does, one side affects the other ever so slightly. Also turn the crank by hand and re-measure after. Slight differences do matter. Adjusting perfectly is an art.
The kickstand is part of the bike's character and identity. I wouldn't change mine for anything. I kick it down with my heel at first, then I push it the rest of the way with my toes. It takes a little practice to get the calve muscle flexible enough to do it.
Like I said a couple of months ago, Airheads are just as addictive as Honda's.
Two brilliantly engineered marques.
I hope that you take some time out on the ole girl and get a camping trip in.
Well done Taylor.
Great videos and great bike. I have a 1990 with the small tech and round clock on the dash with a metal headlight guard. Bought it in '94 and love it. Yours looks much cleaner. Thank you for making these videos. Oh the kickstand. I have always gotten off the bike to put down the kickstand. I just got use to it. The weirdest solution was a "pull cord" from a small engine that had a pulley on the cylinder guard to "Pull" the kickstand down.
You can use the carb balancers to measure the cable pull as well, if they're balanced at idle they will go out of sysnc if the cables don't align. Trick I used on my old R80RT.
Very handsome bike. PS the valve noise is probably not the clearances if you've just checked them (Generally they run well with a generous gapping anyway) but on some models there's end play on the rocker arms which needs to be shimmed. Worth investigating if the valve clearances themselves are good.
At 6'7" I still struggled with the OEM side stand so bit the bullet and bought a Migsel replacement which cures the problem and even looks good! Not cheap though.
Yours sounds good to me. A tappety engine is preferable to a silent one.
I have just replaced the fork seals - a relatively easy job with no need to remove the forks. PD aficionados recommend 15w oil in the right hand fork (which deals with the rebound damping) and 10w in the left hand (compression damping) fork. Yours is leaking on the same side as mine was so check your brake pads for contamination. Mine had to be replaced.
My '91 has 35k on it and still rides like new. I even prefer it to my R1200GS. It's a keeper.
I'm really enjoying this series of videos. Good work! Thank you.
I recommend first hooking up both synchronizer gauges with valves to one carb making sure that they are in sync first.
Great video. I’ve got a 1993 GSPD and the kickstand has always been an oddity to me too. Doing a great job, bike looks awesome!
I always get off of my GS without any stand down. It is pretty easy to balance. After that, I decide whether to use the side or center stand
Ah memories, when doing the cable adjustment i would put a vice grip on the twist grip lightly against the brake lever and have it rev about 1500rpm and hold it there and adjust the cable, with your vacuum gauges, don’t worry about the valve noise that’s normal being air cooled, that’s a beautiful bike mate.
The valve noise can be an issue on the highway as it is REALLY GOOD at spooking dear into a panic run.
As many said, you can roll the bike back to put pressure on the stand. There are aftermarkets that stay down. Otherwise, the airhead should be parked on the center stand anyways... avoids oil seeping through on that lefthand cylinder.
My uncle and his friend both had those exact bikes. Rode it from KY to AK and back. Such cool bikes
Been looking at these because I love how they sound and look, I don't plan on using it off road but more to have fun on through the local country lanes. I was looking at a Ducati 1198s and i know two very different bikes but hopefully the GS will be just as much fun without scaring myself to death.
At about 14:15 when the bike is idling and you take off talking about the clutch engagement, it seemed like the bike has a very rough idle. So rough that I first thought that only one cylinder was firing. Maybe balancing the carbs like Peter Ferryman mentioned could get a smoother idle?
great job! Carbs are so black magic to me, your vintage skills are impressive.
Preload the gear lever and just fan the clutch for upshifts.
My SP1 Guzzi had the same daft side stand idea. A homemade bracket and an old Yamaha stand sorted it.
The side stand is not daft - there’s a good reason for it. People who can’t understand that are the daft ones😉
The fuel tank is from the first Paris Dakar edition,very interesting,nice video 👍👍
Regarding the speedo cable. check it where it plugs in by the driveshaft near your right hand foot. It may need to be tightened down underneath the boot.
As for capability of you working on the bike. Anything you will need to do you can do yourself with a little knowledge and effort you shouldn't need to take it to a dealer.
It is one of the great benefits of owning this bike that you can be almost anywhere in the world and work on it yourself.
Both the throttle and choke cables need end plays of between 0.5 - 1.0 mm.
The initial settings of the carbs before syncing them are: Carb Mixture Jets - 2 turns out from seated position (rich Mixture).
Idle Screws - 1 turn in from just touching arm.
Then:
Adj idle 1000 rpm, then air balance.
Adj carb mix by screwing in to max rpm/smoothness.
ReAdjust idle and check air balance.
Adj cable end plays at 3000 rpm to air balance.
Adj cable lengths to keep free play intact at 0.5 - 1.0 mm.
You should have a clear mirror when you drive, without annoying blurred vibration.
Yup, the only way I’ve found for the side kick is to kill the bike and step off and drop the stand. Had her for years(1988) and have always wonder about that design. Safety issue.? You never forget to put your side stand up:)
As a GS owner, a much newer GS, I'm really enjoying this series. Beautiful bike with a great heritage and really solid work on your part.
I have been in love with GS since 1995
Nice bike buddy it is really a nice catch
Never been a fan of BMW, but I do like this bike.
Thanks for posting. It brings back fond memories of my ‘91 R100GSPD I owned for 9 years.
Speedo and odometer may be more than just the cable. Would start with the cable. If that does not fix it, there are a couple of places that service speedo/odometers. One is Terry Vrla. You can find him on the internet. He has my R80ST instruments now. He could at least advise you if needed.
The engine is off, adjust one cable to specs, then twist the throttle until the slack on the adjusted cable reaches 0, then adjust the other cable until no slack, and there you go identical slack on both cables
Sweet man. Looks like you live in the perfect place to enjoy that one. Looks like it has a good home
I have a 92 GS bmw they are really a wonderful bikes !
If the speedometer is mechanical, the issue is probably related to the "alignment" of the cable/cogwheel. Try to remove it, turn the wheel a bit and insert it again. Repeat if necessary.
i saw the airhead under the tarp. Dont hide it be proud!
Oh man, this was great!!! Looking forward to to seeing your next video!!!!! Great job!!!!!!
I had a feeling you would get leaking fork seals in your previous vids, buy yourself a fork saver. They go between the tyre and triple tree which stops the constant pressure on the forks being compressed while loaded on trailers and bench lifts 👍 very nice bike she's a beauty 😍
Upgrade to Progressive fork springs while you have forks apart. No regrets!
Yep. And when hauling, loosen the straps when you park. Keep it on a center stand, not a kickstand when you get home.
We always just made little custom fork blocks out of wood for each bike.
Looks and sounds great!! Are you running tubeless tires? What brand mono shock did you install?
If the gauges need rebuilding beyond your comfort, Palo Alto. Sweet bike!
My airhead GS speedo died and was replaced under warranty. Yes those gauges are kinda crappy.
Yeah easy enough to ship it off to the west coast for repair.
That's where I got the parts to fix mine....but be advised I was a watchmaker and small parts were not a problem for me...
@@stevebell4906 Where I work(construction) a common refrain is "hey we're not building a Swiss watch here". And my R100GS clocks are toast. My pseudo HPN inspired GS will have electronic gauges.
@@bernibeckmann9753 I had a K 100 RT....The forum was full of comments about those original gauges and Palo Alto even commented on them...it seemed that they were never intended as designed to be mounted outside in the weather...but were always supposed to to be mounted inside outside of the weather in an instrument panel or cockpit...and they were never intended to be weather proof...
Mine wasn't working when I bought the bike and restored it...it had little plastic gears inside that just crumbled...Palo Alto had replacements that were upgraded to a different and better material...You had to know the tooth count on the replacement...to make it read the right indication for your speed...
Many people on the forum just ignored it and replaced with a digital bike sped o from a bicycle shop....cheaper and more accurate and reliable and waterproof...Now a days your GPS is even better...but you lose that vintage and original look...
Great bike and awesome content.
good viewing pleasure.......looking forward to the fork service, thanks for doing this
I have a similar issue with my Buell Ulysses, the kick stand is super long and I have to extend my leg alllll the way to get it all the way out.
I adjust the idle mixture screw to when the engine runs the FASTEST
Loud valves save lives!
I owned a 1990 R80 GS for 20 years. I would dismount then put it on the stand.
super nice bike mate😀
When getting on and off I usually just get off the bike and put it on the center stand.
Nice bike! :)
I have a 100 gs PD too and mine also makes a lot more noise on the right side than the left side. I guess that's normal
Cant confirm that. Our 1990 GS PD isnt like that.
Yeah, you can adjust the valves till the cows come home and still have noise due to those pesky rocker arm shafts being just ever so slightly loose. They make the exact same sound as a loose tappet. When adjusted correctly, the bike makes very very little noise from the heads. When I finally figured this out, it was like I was riding a new bike...no lie!
Great video, like the move onto BMWs 😁
Any thoughts on getting s classic K bike? Be great to see a flying brick in your workshop 👍🏻
There is a side stand fixer out there, but be careful you don't leave it down as that can actually kill you.
Nice to see you trying something different. I like the bike!
I take off the same on my 2006 GSA which is having the same one single dry plate clutch.
Nice bike!, And would you be able to do a kickstart replacement video having some difficulty with the spring the kickstart will go down but won't come back up and having some difficulty turning it over with kick start but I'm able to run it with the starter
I have to get off the bike and then kick out the side stand - not found another way to do it! - With the tripometer try pulling the reset button up (out) and see if starts to work again?
The sidestand is like that so you can't forget to put it up before you ride off.
In Germany the sidestand must be swinging back. A safety feature which is obligatory or else you don‘t pass the „TÜV“ road test every two years. Earlier BMW‘s like my 1973 R75/5 don‘t have a retractable sidestand which led to dome dicussions with the tester. I was able to convert it with patrs fom a later model. If the sidestand is not spring loaded there must be a kill switch which interrupts the ignition when the sidestand is out.
whats with the garage lighting going on and off mate?
Thought I was the only one to notice that.
I'm really really enjoying the BMW videos and delighted to hear you might consider some more BMW stuff. I love the Honda rebuilds but for some reason I find the BMW stuff to be more interesting and inspiring 🤷🏻♂️
Awesome work as always 👏
probably because they're infinitely rebuildable?
@@bernibeckmann9753 😂 I think you've hit the nail on the head... I wasn't quite sure what it was about them... but that's it 👌
By the way … having just watched your KLR videos too. I grew up on on Killers but ultimately let it go when I got the GSPD. More range, more comfort, as nimble, just as easy to work on. And cooler! 😎
Just continue using the synchro meter to figure out which cylinder kicks in first..
Exactly. Can also use the short circuit method using 2 old spokes that need to be cut to approx. 3 inches. The nipples are then screwed on to the spark plug (happen to have same thread) and fix at 1500 rpm. Then short circuit left and then right and observe the rpm differences in drop.
just a guy adjusting some carbs on his drive with nature sounds and a nice copse in the background along side a classic muscle car. what's not to like!
I wonder if making the mixture as lean as possible is the right move on an air cooled bike used at slow speed though
I always set my old trail bikes a bit rich, makes them run cooler
I don't really care about losing a bit of power for that.
Yes. I get off and then kick out the stand.. not great is it. Dreamboat is right dude! I laughed when you said parts look like they're taken off like a car. Half the parts in this engine look like they're right off a Beetle! The coils? Hahaha
Badass bike Taylor 👍🏼👍🏼
Kick out the stand whilst seated, lean the bike over to the left and roll back a couple inches :-)
My tappets are louder on LHS. They do rock sideways and that can be adjusted or shimmed out. Of course, your hearing may not be as great as you hope it might be! I can hear birdsong clearly on my left, but not so much on my right. Too many metal concerts and steelworks.
Lovely bike.
That is a very nice bike indeed.
How about if you use the center stand instead
Yeah, " tune it by ear ". So easy to say 😉
I'm not a big fan of BMWs but that is an exceptionally cool bike
look for a stand mode kit called a sure foot
What I used o do,was to stand on the centre and pull on the handlebars it then settles on it🤪while on the bike😆oh good job✌️
Great! Great! Great, Taylor! Good job!
Fantastic vid.
Nice bike, keep the videos coming
There's one of these Paris Dakar's being auctioned on Bring A Trailer right now. I'll be curious to see what it goes for. I'm not familiar with this model at all.
Really awesome bike. Aren't you a bmw tech? Did you see anything similar from older bmw cars to the bike. Besides the clutch?
Where did you get ur hard tail for your triumph. I have a 71 Bonneville and I'm dieing and at a stand still. And need to finding one
great vid, was it the camera angle (on the ride) or are the bars slightly bent?
Be careful you will fall hard for the air head. Got a 09 R1200gs four years ago and wouldn't sell it for 4 times what I paid. Stay safe.
What gloves are those?
What the road you were on for the test drive?
love these bikes.I had one .And the wind noise was incredible .I coulnt solve that
Earplugs .
@@matthulstrunk6977 tried that as well as whisper kits all sorts of screens and even custom made earplugs.....all helped but was still very noisy..shoei helmet
Back in the day.... we removed the rear boot on the carbs and used a flat SU carb sink with ball gage and did them one at a time, old school, and that right side... you need to adjust the valve's again, it's the intake side. We did center stand for off and on.
love that bike
check your cable lube it !
Really nice bike! There's probably a reason, but why is the windscreen not symmetrical?
Oh, it's fixed relative to the bars. That notch on the right is to clear the master...
Love that bike!
My R100GS is "louder" on the right as well. The side stand just SUCKS! I get off, holding the front brake and balancing the bike, then deploy the stand. There are some people out there that build a regular type side stand but I hardly think it's worth 300 bucks.
I found the riding style called "the body english" works best for this bike. Sit square on the seat like at a kitchen chair and push down on the inside footpeg this transfers my 100 kgs to the hight of the footpeg and so develops less torque. To corner start from the outside as soon as you see centre line fold it over like a spitfire start from the centre and fold towards the edge of the road to corner the other way. You'll have to get a bit of practise in till it becomes second nature. If I'm teaching granny to suck eggs sorry
Great thank you. Awesome
Useful session, thx. Could you consider doing a "How to..." video on fixing older carb bikes that are hard to start, especially in winter. Keep up the great work man.
I’m considering buying one of these - 94 R100 GS Dakar. I can get it for $5K. It would be a good mate for my 650 GS Dakar. What do you think?
I would go for it. I paid $3,500 for this one but that it an unheard of deal. I sold it for more than 3X that.
T, if one side is ticking louder---check the end float on the rocker arms. Those should be shimmed on your bike. There should be no play ---up/down---but the RA should be able to move freely, otherwise. MAX BMW has a great parts fiche---if you've not seen it---that will show exploded views of all the parts components on the bike, including the shims for the RA. Good luck
That bike does NOT use shims to adjust the rocker arm shaft end play. The shaft is supported on pillow blocks that will move after you back off the head nuts to 10 lbs. Typically, the shaft is too loose and a c-clamp with socket spacers on each side for clearing the shaft end will close it up nicely. However, it might take a few tries because when you retorque the head bolts they will move a bit.
are the garage lights strobing on and off or is or a camera frequency effect?
I’m guessing refresh rate on camera, since they are LEDs.
I’m glad I’m not the only person that noticed the disco lights in the garage.
sweeet...what a beautiful bike
I’ve been wanting to get one of these for my first street bike what do you think of it as a starter bike
Get one. You will not be sorry.
How deep are your pockets?
@@Roger_Ramjet deep enough I’ve researched prices and i have a year or so to save up
The needles on your sync gauge were perfectly still. Are they like that when you sync a Honda 4? When I sync my CB750 carbs the gauge needles aren't perfectly still like that, they bounce around a bit, even with dampening tubes.
The stock side stand was a sad joke on these bikes, impossible to put down while sitting on the bike. I never used it, would just get off the bike and put it up on the center stand. Since I was getting off the bike with no stand down it could be a PITA specially if I had bags/luggage strapped on the back rack. Getting on wasn't as bad as I would climb on with the center stand down and just ride off the center stand. Somebody did make an aftermarket side stand for these that worked as a normal side stand should but I was always too cheap to get one.
I like It!😁👍
Get some ground pressure on the sidestand and then drag the bike back to lodge it into place.
It's a shitty desgn supossed to make things safer - just makes things far more complicated than they need be.
That is one noise engine I couldn't stand that might wanna try some Lucas oil lol
One of my airheads has over 100K miles, sir
One of mine done same.