THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK 1000 TIMES THANK YOU! I am a deisel mechanic, but i had never seen one of these until i bought a chinese tractor. Usually the no. 1 cylinder is at the front, hence my 3 day long confusion. I did what you said at the rear one, and BANG it fired right up! Thank you so much! I'd kiss you if i could!
I'm glad you find this video helpful and hopefully you can check your valve lash on your tractor. It's important to do this every now and then to reduce engine wear in case the gap becomes bigger. -Andreas
I am really not sure how that is possible, because there is literally no area for the rod to drop down into the oil pan. the bottom of the pushrod must sit on the valve tappet and besides that, there is only little passageways for oil to trickle down into the oil pan. Let me know if you get an update from him, I'd be curious to know what happened! Regards Andreas
This technique can be applied to almost any engine with solid valves lifters, so I really hope this will be beneficial for many viewers. The KT17 on the other hand does have a different setup and I actually still have one around that I could do a video on. I'll see what condition it is in and give you an update. Best regards -Andreas
When you tighten the nut - do you hold the screw steady (in one position), or are you allowing it to move a bit with the nut? Last time I did a valve job, I noticed the clearance always increased a fraction as the nut was tightened and I ended up having to redo a few times to get it right...
Good morning, I have a question. I am repairing a Yanmar 4TNV88-BSTX engine. I would like to know what the valve clearance is for this engine, please, and the sequence.
Hello, the valve clearance on your 4TNV88 is: Intake: 0.006" - 0.010" Exhaust: 0.006" - 0.010" These must be set when the engine is cold and your first cylinder (NR.1) is closest to your flywheel. Here is more information on your engine if needed: tractorgearbox.com/yanmar_4tnv88_engine_specs.html Regards Andreas
You seem to indicate that tightening the nut, closes the gap on the feeler gauge @7:10 - 7:20. It does not. The nut tightens to hold the adjusting bolt in place. It is the bolt, adjusted by the flat head screwdriver, that adjusts the gap. That is why you were not feeling any difference before and after "tightening" the nut.
I am aware that with the adjusting bolt, you can raise and lower the gap on the rocker arm. Once you tighten the nut, you will secure the adjusting bolt to the rocker arm so it does not move. If you have ever set your valve lash before, you will know that each thread has a certain tolerance. As you tighten the nut you're actually lifting the adjusting bolt away from the push rod, which leads to a larger gap. To compensate for this tolerance you can turn the adjusting bolt and nut at the same time to achieve your desired valve lash. I hope this clarifies what I did in this video. Regards Andreas
Good morning, I think I need a little more explanation. Top dead center is both valves shut and the piston fully extended at the top of the stroke. I’ve heard top dead center on the exhaust stroke vs compression stroke. Great video love the detail and btw your engine looks like a show piece! Perhaps I answered my own question 🤦.
Hallo, I have a question. I am repairing a Yanmar 3D72-2b engine. I would like to know what the valve clearance is for this engine, please, and the sequence.
The specs for a 4TNV88 are between 20-55PSI. 55PSI should be at your highest rpm setting of your engine. At idle your oil pressure will be lower, but make sure it's not too low! I hope this helps. Cheers
I've had great success sourcing parts through, Friday Parts. Check out their website to see what you can find: www.fridayparts.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=3t75u I hope this helps. Regards Andreas
Aren't diesels 4 stroke engines? Intake, compression, power then exhaust. Just no spark plug. You said set/ check valve lash then rotate engine 180 degrees then check again. Wouldn't it be on exhaust stroke at that point and valve under compression? Just trying to get it right in my head. Thanks alot.
You have to adjust everything to cyl. #1. (Closest to your Flywheel) Your injector (injection pump) must provide fuel about ~15degrees before TDC on the compression stroke. Some engines range between 12-18degrees, so 15 is right in the middle. I hope this helps. Cheers
@@WorkshopRebuild so I’m replacing the head on a c3.3b cat I never done it before I have the service Manuel but is kind of confusing do I adjust number 1 at top dead exhaust and intake can I do number 1 and 4 since both are at top dead or I have to do 1 then 2. 3. And 4. ? I apréciate your help
On a 4 cylinder engine like the one you mentioned, you’re going to want to do each separately. The firing order is most likely 1-3-4-2, because it’s very universal to any other 4-cylinder engine. Rotate the engine so #1 is at TDC on the compression stroke and adjust the valve lash. Rotate the engine on the crankshaft 180 degrees and adjust the valve lash on #3 Continue to rotate 180 degrees for #4 and then last #2, while adjusting the valve lash for each cylinder. Once you’re done recheck it once or twice to be sure and make sure all fasteners are well tight (not overly tight)😁👍🏼 I hope this helps.
Hey I may sound weird So I look on my manual today and notice it has to steps to adjust the valves one at top dead half of the valves then it says to turn number 1 to overlap position Any idea where the overlap is. And on this engine. Number 1 is closer to the water pump correct?
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK 1000 TIMES THANK YOU! I am a deisel mechanic, but i had never seen one of these until i bought a chinese tractor. Usually the no. 1 cylinder is at the front, hence my 3 day long confusion. I did what you said at the rear one, and BANG it fired right up! Thank you so much! I'd kiss you if i could!
I am happy to hear that you were able to get your engine sorted out with help of this video. Thank you for your amazing comment!! Regards Andreas
Another helpful video for one of my engines. I never checked the valve lash on my tractor and maybe it's time to do that now! Thanks WR!!
I'm glad you find this video helpful and hopefully you can check your valve lash on your tractor. It's important to do this every now and then to reduce engine wear in case the gap becomes bigger. -Andreas
Great video, clear and informative, thanks!
Thanks! I‘m glad you found this video informative! Regards Andreas
Thank you my friend dropped a push rod now we have to fix it
Did you drop it before or after watching this video? Was your pushrod seated properly in the valve tappet and on the adjustment screw (rocker arm)?
@@WorkshopRebuild his push rod is gone down in the oil pan I think don't know how it happened but it didn't come threw the valve cover
I am really not sure how that is possible, because there is literally no area for the rod to drop down into the oil pan. the bottom of the pushrod must sit on the valve tappet and besides that, there is only little passageways for oil to trickle down into the oil pan. Let me know if you get an update from him, I'd be curious to know what happened! Regards Andreas
@@WorkshopRebuild I'll let you know what happens
Very Food explaination buddy🙂
I appreciate your feedback! Thanks a lot😃👍🏽
Good video brother
Thank you for comment! I‘m glad you enjoyed this😎
Awesome video Andreas! Thanks for showing this! Could you do this on a flathead engine? Preferably the Kohler kt17.- Jason.
This technique can be applied to almost any engine with solid valves lifters, so I really hope this will be beneficial for many viewers. The KT17 on the other hand does have a different setup and I actually still have one around that I could do a video on. I'll see what condition it is in and give you an update. Best regards -Andreas
Great vid Andreas, how do you tell if the lifters are solid or hydraulic?
I have a Yanmar 3TNV80F engine in an excavator - how do you figure it out when you have a fan on one side and the hydraulic pump on the other?
When you tighten the nut - do you hold the screw steady (in one position), or are you allowing it to move a bit with the nut? Last time I did a valve job, I noticed the clearance always increased a fraction as the nut was tightened and I ended up having to redo a few times to get it right...
Good morning, I have a question. I am repairing a Yanmar 4TNV88-BSTX engine. I would like to know what the valve clearance is for this engine, please, and the sequence.
Hello, the valve clearance on your 4TNV88 is:
Intake: 0.006" - 0.010"
Exhaust: 0.006" - 0.010"
These must be set when the engine is cold and your first cylinder (NR.1) is closest to your flywheel.
Here is more information on your engine if needed: tractorgearbox.com/yanmar_4tnv88_engine_specs.html
Regards Andreas
@@WorkshopRebuild Thank you very much for the answer you have helped me a lot I appreciate it blessings
You seem to indicate that tightening the nut, closes the gap on the feeler gauge @7:10 - 7:20. It does not.
The nut tightens to hold the adjusting bolt in place. It is the bolt, adjusted by the flat head screwdriver, that adjusts the gap.
That is why you were not feeling any difference before and after "tightening" the nut.
I am aware that with the adjusting bolt, you can raise and lower the gap on the rocker arm. Once you tighten the nut, you will secure the adjusting bolt to the rocker arm so it does not move.
If you have ever set your valve lash before, you will know that each thread has a certain tolerance. As you tighten the nut you're actually lifting the adjusting bolt away from the push rod, which leads to a larger gap. To compensate for this tolerance you can turn the adjusting bolt and nut at the same time to achieve your desired valve lash.
I hope this clarifies what I did in this video. Regards Andreas
Good morning, I think I need a little more explanation. Top dead center is both valves shut and the piston fully extended at the top of the stroke. I’ve heard top dead center on the exhaust stroke vs compression stroke. Great video love the detail and btw your engine looks like a show piece! Perhaps I answered my own question 🤦.
Hallo, I have a question. I am repairing a Yanmar 3D72-2b engine. I would like to know what the valve clearance is for this engine, please, and the sequence.
One question, my brother, what is the oil pressure of the Yanmar 4TNV88 engine?
The specs for a 4TNV88 are between 20-55PSI. 55PSI should be at your highest rpm setting of your engine. At idle your oil pressure will be lower, but make sure it's not too low! I hope this helps. Cheers
Do you know where I can get engine parts for a 3T75U yanmar 1610D tractor?
I've had great success sourcing parts through, Friday Parts. Check out their website to see what you can find: www.fridayparts.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=3t75u
I hope this helps. Regards Andreas
Aren't diesels 4 stroke engines? Intake, compression, power then exhaust. Just no spark plug. You said set/ check valve lash then rotate engine 180 degrees then check again. Wouldn't it be on exhaust stroke at that point and valve under compression? Just trying to get it right in my head. Thanks alot.
Ever heard of a Detroit
@@billklass7802 amateur not that familiar with diesels. Just gas engines and trying to get the basic understanding of diesel principles.
Ok. Google is a wonderful thing. Evidently they make 2 and 4 stroke diesels. Interesting.
he said 360 degrees so it would have done two strokes and either goes from compression to power or power to exhaust..so no pressure on the rockers
Hello I need help setting the spill timing on my yanmar please help
You have to adjust everything to cyl. #1. (Closest to your Flywheel)
Your injector (injection pump) must provide fuel about ~15degrees before TDC on the compression stroke.
Some engines range between 12-18degrees, so 15 is right in the middle.
I hope this helps. Cheers
Hello I have a question so when you adjust the next cylinder #2 cylinder needs to be on top dead to be adjusted. ?
That is correct! Always adjust the valve lash when the rocker arms are NOT activating your valves, meaning in TDC position.
@@WorkshopRebuild so I’m replacing the head on a c3.3b cat I never done it before I have the service Manuel but is kind of confusing do I adjust number 1 at top dead exhaust and intake can I do number 1 and 4 since both are at top dead or I have to do 1 then 2. 3. And 4. ? I apréciate your help
On a 4 cylinder engine like the one you mentioned, you’re going to want to do each separately.
The firing order is most likely 1-3-4-2, because it’s very universal to any other 4-cylinder engine.
Rotate the engine so #1 is at TDC on the compression stroke and adjust the valve lash.
Rotate the engine on the crankshaft 180 degrees and adjust the valve lash on #3
Continue to rotate 180 degrees for #4 and then last #2, while adjusting the valve lash for each cylinder.
Once you’re done recheck it once or twice to be sure and make sure all fasteners are well tight (not overly tight)😁👍🏼
I hope this helps.
@@WorkshopRebuild ok I will do that tomorrow I’m at that point I apréciate your help. You have a good night
Hey I may sound weird So I look on my manual today and notice it has to steps to adjust the valves one at top dead half of the valves then it says to turn number 1 to overlap position Any idea where the overlap is. And on this engine. Number 1 is closer to the water pump correct?
How about 2 and 3. Valve clearance. The same 1