A Good Video! Hidden fasteners, the way of the future! Screw through, good luck! Expansion - it's real. The money saved on No Damage inside, plus, replacing screws, is worth the upgrade from screw-down corrugated. Interlocking parts, this is what I think makes the roof look so much better, yes much better. No seams, a perfect place to start rusting out a roof, an issue I have seen over and over on commercial building, Thickness, and coatings, the key to getting it installed to near perfection and keeping it looking good, and functioning well - l o n g - term! Keep up the good work.
Ok....now that we know how to put 2 sheets together.....now how we attach those sheets to the roof ?? I got it...i saw in another of your videos, with a clip and screws
The 180 would tend to Oil Can on uneven roof surfaces vs the 138T. Especially if you were doing Curved panel. The 138T was designed to correct as many issues as possible that Seamed panels historically presented. If you are going below 1x12 pitch and the roof has high visibility you should always go with the 138T.
I fully disagree on that Transverse Chimney flash! A Splice or a Lap flash will perform just as well so long as the installers knows what he is doing and actually does his job! Next, 1.75 inch Snap Lok will perform perfectly fine down to 1x12 pitch. Also, I have removed panels on a 1.75 several times. It is not easy mind you, but definitely Do-able! I could probably make pretty good money off a UA-cam channel that focuses exclusively on correcting false Standing Seam videos several people have put on UA-cam!
Well fooock... you made me feel better. I'm about to bust out my double wide with 1.75" standing seam. The old owner added to the house so i have a transition off the main roof where it goes to under 2 on 12. Looking forward to doing it.
☝️🙄 ummm...snap lock "is repairable". You start at the eve, pull up the hem off the trim. Now get your snips and cut the female overlap away from the lock. Now you could sit there and run up with some nibblers or your shears but they actually make a tool for it with a guide on the front and it basically unzips the lock all the way up the panel. Once the panel is unlocked you lift from the bottom and slide it down from the 90, out of the clips. Next you take a tool and open the clips up ever so slightly, lift the adjacent panel off the clips. Put a piece of tape on the adjacent panel so you know where the clips are. Put your new panel in place. Rock it up to the 90. Line up your male lip end under the clip. Start at the top mallet and a 4-6" soft wedge wack, wack, wack at your clips, when you snap one in the next one should be halfway in the next. Remember on a 30-ft you're only really doing 15 to 20 clips. On shorter roofs lengths, you may even be able to slide it into the clips. Set eve hem and detail, use thin flashing and field cut a piece of z trim, unfold the profile on the bottom edge. He's a right-angle drill to secure the z flashing/butyl tape/and panel to the top. Now fold back the z flashing and snap it into the ridge trim. It's not easy but it's completely doable. It all really depends on what type of snap lock during the manufacturing is used on How difficult it will be.
A Good Video! Hidden fasteners, the way of the future! Screw through, good luck! Expansion - it's real. The money saved on No Damage inside, plus, replacing screws, is worth the upgrade from screw-down corrugated. Interlocking parts, this is what I think makes the roof look so much better, yes much better. No seams, a perfect place to start rusting out a roof, an issue I have seen over and over on commercial building, Thickness, and coatings, the key to getting it installed to near perfection and keeping it looking good, and functioning well - l o n g - term! Keep up the good work.
Snap lock somes apart standing seam is the one that sucks to come part
Ok....now that we know how to put 2 sheets together.....now how we attach those sheets to the roof ??
I got it...i saw in another of your videos, with a clip and screws
That's not true about repairability my friend. I've pulled panels out of the center of a roof and replaced them on the snap lock system
Thank you for teaching me how to do my job :-)
Would have been nice to see how the 138T went together...and how that seam cap worked.
Excellent video.
Excellent, informative video, Thanks!!
Glad it was helpful!
What about the 138T vs double seem 180
The 180 would tend to Oil Can on uneven roof surfaces vs the 138T. Especially if you were doing Curved panel. The 138T was designed to correct as many issues as possible that Seamed panels historically presented. If you are going below 1x12 pitch and the roof has high visibility you should always go with the 138T.
I fully disagree on that Transverse Chimney flash! A Splice or a Lap flash will perform just as well so long as the installers knows what he is doing and actually does his job!
Next, 1.75 inch Snap Lok will perform perfectly fine down to 1x12 pitch.
Also, I have removed panels on a 1.75 several times. It is not easy mind you, but definitely Do-able!
I could probably make pretty good money off a UA-cam channel that focuses exclusively on correcting false Standing Seam videos several people have put on UA-cam!
Well fooock... you made me feel better. I'm about to bust out my double wide with 1.75" standing seam. The old owner added to the house so i have a transition off the main roof where it goes to under 2 on 12. Looking forward to doing it.
@@calmistheway get her done buckwheat
Also not true snap lock always dose better on ripples in old house
Spending that kind of money I sure as hell hope I don’t need any repairs. Sounds to me like the system has problems right of the getgo. Stay clear.
LOL. Yeah trees don't fall on houses, never happens so keep trolling....
☝️🙄 ummm...snap lock "is repairable". You start at the eve, pull up the hem off the trim. Now get your snips and cut the female overlap away from the lock. Now you could sit there and run up with some nibblers or your shears but they actually make a tool for it with a guide on the front and it basically unzips the lock all the way up the panel. Once the panel is unlocked you lift from the bottom and slide it down from the 90, out of the clips. Next you take a tool and open the clips up ever so slightly, lift the adjacent panel off the clips. Put a piece of tape on the adjacent panel so you know where the clips are. Put your new panel in place. Rock it up to the 90. Line up your male lip end under the clip. Start at the top mallet and a 4-6" soft wedge wack, wack, wack at your clips, when you snap one in the next one should be halfway in the next. Remember on a 30-ft you're only really doing 15 to 20 clips. On shorter roofs lengths, you may even be able to slide it into the clips. Set eve hem and detail, use thin flashing and field cut a piece of z trim, unfold the profile on the bottom edge. He's a right-angle drill to secure the z flashing/butyl tape/and panel to the top. Now fold back the z flashing and snap it into the ridge trim.
It's not easy but it's completely doable. It all really depends on what type of snap lock during the manufacturing is used on How difficult it will be.
So the seam caps need to be spliced… kinda ugly.