I’ve been stressing about moving a Bridgeport, a surface grinder and a metal lathe into my garage for the last two weeks. You just made my day. Thank you
I usually don't comment at all on UA-cam videos but for this one I had to because everything this guy made on this video and said on this video worked flawlessly for me, the only thing that I would add something that he didn't say was go get yourself a packet of those cheap shims that way you can put in front of the skate wheels to stop it from moving when you're jacking up The other side of what you try to move, because the first side that's already on the wheels moves so easily that they need to stop so you can actually get the machine up to get the second set of skates under it if you don't the Jack just basically pushed of the machine because the skates rolled so easily. Great video helped me alot
Nice video! I once bought a mill for $550 and the rigger wanted $300 delivery, I took day off from work and accomplished that task by myself. Glad the child is learning skills and not busy playing video games!
Like I said, I made them. They work perfectly. I can push my 4000lb lathe anywhere I want now. Thanks so much for the idea. Honestly, without a way to move heavy machinery, I would never have bought a lathe!
Rick Rose Definitely use three, not four. Think "three legged stool," where all the legs will always be loaded. Add a 4th and the potential exists for one to be unloaded, as they found with the corner that slipped out. Even with a friction pad if it is unloaded it could slip out from under the load and lead to a tipping situation.
I caution anyone using this method as you can see he is about to loose the front corner skate because the bearings on one of the other skates got stuck on loose concrete causing the front to almost slide off and cause a serious accident. Don't get me wrong this is a good method I would just have at least 3 people 4 would be better 1 to monitor each corner and move much slower. Watch the video again and you will see what I'm talking about. Besides that, great idea, great use of materials and great video. Thank you for sharing. You can bet I will be making some of these.
Eddie, you're right about the way I used the skates in the video. It's better to use 3 skates instead of 4. And it's best if you add thick rubber pads to the top of the skates to help them stay in place. Riphaven commented a while back and suggested welding bumps to the skates so they grip better when you're using a wood spacer.
Love it!! =) I'm about to go and purchse a 1300lbs lathe that I need to move, so I've been doing some research into what other people have done. I'm really grateful for your video and how well you've explained everything. Time to buy some steel plate, some rod and some bearings. And make some skates!! =) Many many thanks! Mich
I use to be a rigger, you don't need rubber on the top of the skate, just make about five dimples with the welder,they don't need to be perfect. When you lower the weight on to the skate the dimples will push into the wood and hold them in place.
Great video, thanks! I think you can make it easier and safer quite easily - drill and tap the centre of the skates for a sturdy bolt, with a slight counterbore, then sandwich a thrust bearing (or just a greasy bronze washer) between skate and a top plate, a sleeve welded in the top plate and snuggish in the counterbore holds everything aligned while you position and run the bolt in (loosely) through the the hold-down holes in the machine base - the skates can't get away, and if you drill a hole or cut a slot in the face of the plate you can slip a lever in and point the skates where you'd like them to go! I'll be making some to move my lathe (4500 pounds) around the garage, but the roll in from the trailer will be on scaffold pole rollers - much easier on rough / softer surfaces like my crazed tarmac! One question, how would epoxy floor paint hold up to the skates?
before i retired we used to have to move heavy equipment such as chiller condensers, boiler chambers and large pumps and motors. we used a commercially available device called a Multiton. it was similar to you skate except that it had several hardened rods used as rollers on each one. they could handle several tons each and with a johnson bar and 4 of them we could move anything we had to. I do like the skate idea for equipment under a couple of tons.....
Great vid, this helped me quite a bit. With crowded home shops we all need ways to move heavier and heavier equipment around. I thought a couple thousand pound machine was heavy until I heard you say 5500# and even in a small area. Being able to clean around machines is a must in small shop so my stuff is on wheels. Working on a system for being able to have one end on straight wheels and the front on a swivel with pull handle to steer and move lathes and mills.
Hey, glad it helped you! Before I knew how to do it, moving machines around was one of the bigger roadblocks to owning some of the very affordable used machine tools on the market. Always happy to hear others find it useful knowledge too!
Great video! Love the simple, home-made skates. It's nice to see someone using their brain! Over the years in my experience in industrial settings, I've seen a lot of crazy and dumb moves by workers. I'm always drilling into people's heads to "work smarter, not harder". Nice job and thanks for the ideas.
So interesting. I thought the fixed line skates could not be a used to rotate objects. Very interesting. The trick now will be working out what orientation to put them in in order to move and rotate things.
I made my toe jack, and moved Bridgeport mills and 3,500 CNC mills one of the tools you just can not do things without! Also, I am making skates now... tires of the "pipe" method. I'll add a top layer of the stick-on traction (grip) tape because never metal-on-metal (even a piece of cardboard is better!) and low profile is needed because my CNC mill "just" clears the garage hight! - Thank you for providing the bearing size. I will cut snap ring groves into the rod and press in the bearings, and again use snap rings to keep then on securely No need to drill and tap (hardened steel is no joy to do this!)
Hey John, sorry to see your comment months late, but I appreciate your situation - I also had the 'low height garage' problem and can really relate! I'm sure you've built your skates by now, but another workable solution is to heat the bearing, chill the shaft/skate and then slip it on. If there is enough of an interference fit, it won't move. Of course it won't be serviceable either, but that's how I built mine. Sounds like yours are going to be much nicer. Thanks for the nice comment!
agreed, they're not for every situation - certainly not for asphalt, or anything rougher. However, I used these on my rough concrete driveway which had beem broomed for texture. It was a little harder to push, but still workable for my load (around 5500 lbs). I was even able to push across the seams between the concrete slabs, which surprised me - I thought it was going to get stuck. It's good to have several tricks in the bag, including the pipe method you used.
Good homemade skates. I will make some smaller ones for myself, so thanks for the idea. To stop the skate/s from slipping out from under the load, place a layer of compressible material on top of the skate, so that there is a layer between the skate and the weight. Rubber matting is ideal for this. Cut up old rubber car footmats, strips of garden hosepipe, or household door mats are a perfect solution. Thick cardboard will do the job, but obviously won't last as long.
Glad you enjoyed it! I built the skates with R10 bearings riding on 5/8" shafts, with the intention of keeping them very low profile, so I would not cause too much machine tilt when I put the first skate under. As it turns out, I ended up putting 2x4 spacers on the skates. It seems logical that larger wheels would be more tolerant of rough concrete, especially a driveway. Just watch the slope and don't let it get away from you, of course =)
good tips - thanks! A year ago, I cut up some thick 20mm rubber pads (about 3/4"). Perhaps in the future, I'll mill some texture into the top surfaces of the skates to make them more slip resistant.
Cool! I was looking for a way to move a mill around my garage, and that should work for me. Similar to your toe jack, to put machinery mounts under my lathe I turned a cap and bolted a chain to it with a grab hook on each side of the cabinet on one end. Once lifted, I used a chunk of square tube as a safety stand while placing the mounts.
Thanks for sharing. Gave me some great ideas to help me move stuff now that my son has grown up. Wife is pretty useless when it comes to helping move anything heavier than a wallet.
Very nice. Gonna make some skates. Though I don't shop at Horrible Frate, I will make a jack from an old bottle jack. Thanks... Love the out-take, LOL.
Great video I plan on making a set of these, as I have a South Bend 13"x40" tool room lathe that I need to re-position in my garage. I moved it using (4) 1/2x24" steel pipe (3) 2x10 x12 boards and a engine hoist over 22 feet of gravel THEN up on the concrete. I was amazed how easily I could move the appox 1800 pound machine over gravel by myself using the board roller method (wouldn't want to do it all the time though) but it was a total pain to try and position the machine once in the garage and on the concrete with 12 foot boards took much longer than if I had had a set of these
Nice and useful, I've borrowed a set to move my lathe. (980lbs). For final placing in tight corners I use 2 small sheets of hardboard, shiny-sides together with a dusting of real talcum powder between the sheets, placed beneath the machine feet. This reduces the risk of a roller catching on a small bump and the machine slipping off sideways. The thing will slide freely, then the sheets can easily be slipped out.
I'm happy to hear of your success! Even though I use them infrequently, they are one of my favorite tools - there's quite a sense of accomplishment moving around heavy machines like that.
I use R10 bearings on 5/8" drill rod axles. The press fit worked out to be plenty to keep the bearings in place, but if I had problems, I would have remade them with snapring grooves to retain the bearings. One nice thing about the skates is that they don't raise the load very far.
You can use Watermelon skin, the best way to do that. Here in Mexico, we move Hyperbaric chambers with watermelon skin. Hyperbaric chambers can weight a lot.
I purchased drill rod from Enco, with nominal OD matching the nominal bearing ID. It was a light or medium press fit. I tapped it on with a socket pushing on the inner race (so as not to damage the bearing). Drill rod is strong, has a precise OD, and cheap.
Is that a stunt dog with his paw under the machine when you jacked it up at 2.50? Great idea I have been toying with this idea to move a 750kg plus milling machine. I just have to learn to weld! Mike
thanks for your sharing and I hope I am able to build ones.Would you mind giving me some advice and teaching me how to do that.Thank you for your help.
Nicely done, answered my question of how can I get my ironworker to move frontwards and backwards in my garage space and not change the height very much. Thanks
nice video.. i need these to move my washing machine with dryer sitting on top.. I need to move it just 2 feet away from the wall. i also need that particular custom Jack, to lift the washer off the floor.. is it something i can find in the store?
+Nehemiah Jandroep You can buy the red jack, but not the gray part he made that fits onto the jack. You have to make that part. amaedesigns next project needs to be a handle the bleed off the jack. Just kidding you amaedesign . Nice project.
Awesome.... I just purchased a used Cincinatti arrow 500 VMC and I am wanting to move it myself. This idea is great!! What sort of bearings did you use to make them and is there some kinda keeper holding them onto the shaft? I know you said they were pressed on but with that much weight on them I would probably want to MAKE SURE they stay on. I suppose a threaded hole in the lathe and a simple bolt and washer not larger than the inner race would be pretty simple. That lathe is my next purchas
how you made axes aligned while welding ? in some comments lower I see good idea to make some threaded hole in mid of roller pad for bolt securing scate under your machine corner. I see you have holes for fixing cnc on basement or vibropad installing, using bolt you can stop scate rolling away and leave machine fliyng on other three scates
+Dmitry Ponyatov Aligning the axes was simple - I just didn't try too hard. The shafts are aligned to the cut edges of the skates, but I don't need the wheels to be precisely parallel to work well, so I just used a magnet to align the shaft and edge of the plate. Agreed, it would be better to use 3 skates, and a friction pad to keep them under the load.
I’ve been stressing about moving a Bridgeport, a surface grinder and a metal lathe into my garage for the last two weeks. You just made my day. Thank you
Hey, happy to help!
I usually don't comment at all on UA-cam videos but for this one I had to because everything this guy made on this video and said on this video worked flawlessly for me, the only thing that I would add something that he didn't say was go get yourself a packet of those cheap shims that way you can put in front of the skate wheels to stop it from moving when you're jacking up The other side of what you try to move, because the first side that's already on the wheels moves so easily that they need to stop so you can actually get the machine up to get the second set of skates under it if you don't the Jack just basically pushed of the machine because the skates rolled so easily.
Great video helped me alot
Hey Matt, glad this worked for you and thanks for adding the tip about using shims as brakes!
I followed your video and made a set for my 1,850Lb surface grinder. Moved with one hand. Thanks for posting a great idea.
Nice video! I once bought a mill for $550 and the rigger wanted $300 delivery, I took day off from work and accomplished that task by myself. Glad the child is learning skills and not busy playing video games!
Like I said, I made them. They work perfectly. I can push my 4000lb lathe anywhere I want now. Thanks so much for the idea. Honestly, without a way to move heavy machinery, I would never have bought a lathe!
I had nearly the identical design in mind for both the toe jack and the skates--You've proven the concept. Thanks!
Rick Rose Definitely use three, not four. Think "three legged stool," where all the legs will always be loaded. Add a 4th and the potential exists for one to be unloaded, as they found with the corner that slipped out. Even with a friction pad if it is unloaded it could slip out from under the load and lead to a tipping situation.
I am an iron worker/rigger by trade. In my opinion, you did a great job, both in fabrication and implication of the lift plan. Good job.
Thanks for the compliment! I have a ton of respect for professionals like you who handle much trickier loads day in and day out!
Are you not making any more videos? Would be a shame. You are a natural in front of the camera, and very helpful and informative.
Moved very easily. Liked the 3 skate triangle, good idea. Good job you have a very smooth floor. Not so easy on rippled concrete! Thanks for posting
Great idea and the construction of the skates looks not complicated. Thanks
I caution anyone using this method as you can see he is about to loose the front corner skate because the bearings on one of the other skates got stuck on loose concrete causing the front to almost slide off and cause a serious accident. Don't get me wrong this is a good method I would just have at least 3 people 4 would be better 1 to monitor each corner and move much slower. Watch the video again and you will see what I'm talking about. Besides that, great idea, great use of materials and great video. Thank you for sharing. You can bet I will be making some of these.
Eddie, you're right about the way I used the skates in the video. It's better to use 3 skates instead of 4. And it's best if you add thick rubber pads to the top of the skates to help them stay in place. Riphaven commented a while back and suggested welding bumps to the skates so they grip better when you're using a wood spacer.
great idea. I need to move a 5k+ milling machine. thanks for the build info
Hope you have a successful move!
Love it!! =) I'm about to go and purchse a 1300lbs lathe that I need to move, so I've been doing some research into what other people have done. I'm really grateful for your video and how well you've explained everything. Time to buy some steel plate, some rod and some bearings. And make some skates!! =) Many many thanks! Mich
I use to be a rigger, you don't need rubber on the top of the skate, just make about five dimples with the welder,they don't need to be perfect. When you lower the weight on to the skate the dimples will push into the wood and hold them in place.
Thanks for the tip Riphaven! I'll have to give that a try!
did you ever try the idea with the dimples? i should also said we cut out pieces of ply wood that fit on top of the skates.
riphaven Not yet, but I plan to for the next set I make. Currently, I'm using very thick cast urethane pads.
riphaven þŕ_5 5xl shirt 5
Great video, thanks!
I think you can make it easier and safer quite easily - drill and tap the centre of the skates for a sturdy bolt, with a slight counterbore, then sandwich a thrust bearing (or just a greasy bronze washer) between skate and a top plate, a sleeve welded in the top plate and snuggish in the counterbore holds everything aligned while you position and run the bolt in (loosely) through the the hold-down holes in the machine base - the skates can't get away, and if you drill a hole or cut a slot in the face of the plate you can slip a lever in and point the skates where you'd like them to go!
I'll be making some to move my lathe (4500 pounds) around the garage, but the roll in from the trailer will be on scaffold pole rollers - much easier on rough / softer surfaces like my crazed tarmac!
One question, how would epoxy floor paint hold up to the skates?
I'm building a set this week!! Thank you!
before i retired we used to have to move heavy equipment such as chiller condensers, boiler chambers and large pumps and motors. we used a commercially available device called a Multiton. it was similar to you skate except that it had several hardened rods used as rollers on each one. they could handle several tons each and with a johnson bar and 4 of them we could move anything we had to. I do like the skate idea for equipment under a couple of tons.....
Great vid, this helped me quite a bit. With crowded home shops we all need ways to move heavier and heavier equipment around. I thought a couple thousand pound machine was heavy until I heard you say 5500# and even in a small area.
Being able to clean around machines is a must in small shop so my stuff is on wheels.
Working on a system for being able to have one end on straight wheels and the front on a swivel with pull handle to steer and move lathes and mills.
Hey, glad it helped you! Before I knew how to do it, moving machines around was one of the bigger roadblocks to owning some of the very affordable used machine tools on the market. Always happy to hear others find it useful knowledge too!
Concise, infromative, and obviously well thought out and executed production.... thanks! Now to buy that Bridgeport mill I've been coveting.
I like the low profile. Love the toe jack. Hockey pucks work good to hold the machine on top of the skates.
Great video! Love the simple, home-made skates. It's nice to see someone using their brain! Over the years in my experience in industrial settings, I've seen a lot of crazy and dumb moves by workers. I'm always drilling into people's heads to "work smarter, not harder". Nice job and thanks for the ideas.
Awesome & thanks for your nice comment! That's the reason I made the video to share a simple and easy idea most people could replicate.
So interesting. I thought the fixed line skates could not be a used to rotate objects. Very interesting. The trick now will be working out what orientation to put them in in order to move and rotate things.
Thanks a lot for showing me the way to handle heavy loads.
Regards
That was awesome, the kid and you make a good team!
Great ingenuity, thanks for sharing.
I made my toe jack, and moved Bridgeport mills and 3,500 CNC mills one of the tools you just can not do things without! Also, I am making skates now... tires of the "pipe" method. I'll add a top layer of the stick-on traction (grip) tape because never metal-on-metal (even a piece of cardboard is better!) and low profile is needed because my CNC mill "just" clears the garage hight! - Thank you for providing the bearing size. I will cut snap ring groves into the rod and press in the bearings, and again use snap rings to keep then on securely No need to drill and tap (hardened steel is no joy to do this!)
Hey John, sorry to see your comment months late, but I appreciate your situation - I also had the 'low height garage' problem and can really relate! I'm sure you've built your skates by now, but another workable solution is to heat the bearing, chill the shaft/skate and then slip it on. If there is enough of an interference fit, it won't move. Of course it won't be serviceable either, but that's how I built mine. Sounds like yours are going to be much nicer. Thanks for the nice comment!
Brilliant. I will be making a set of these. Thanks.
great simple method i especially like the toe jack. great video.thanks
yes i must make some and i like your idea on the jack very good thanks
glad you enjoyed it!
We could have saved a lot of effort had I seen your video earlier. Great idea and great equipment.
Thank you a great video. Just about to move a machine and it was a great help!
agreed, they're not for every situation - certainly not for asphalt, or anything rougher. However, I used these on my rough concrete driveway which had beem broomed for texture. It was a little harder to push, but still workable for my load (around 5500 lbs). I was even able to push across the seams between the concrete slabs, which surprised me - I thought it was going to get stuck. It's good to have several tricks in the bag, including the pipe method you used.
You Sir deserve more views,this helped me alot.Thanks man
glad it helped!
Good homemade skates. I will make some smaller ones for myself, so thanks for the idea. To stop the skate/s from slipping out from under the load, place a layer of compressible material on top of the skate, so that there is a layer between the skate and the weight. Rubber matting is ideal for this. Cut up old rubber car footmats, strips of garden hosepipe, or household door mats are a perfect solution. Thick cardboard will do the job, but obviously won't last as long.
Simply fabulous - I need to build some skates and modify my harbor freight jack
+Dick Damian, glad you liked the video!
Like a close up of your custom bottle jack mod.....the bearings are real slick...!
Thanks for sharing, your bottle jack mod is great!
Excellent your job and excellent your ideas.
Congratulations guy.
Greetings from Colombia
Great video. I'm going to make a set of these to move my new to me Cadillac lathe.
Very well presented. Great ideas. Thanks.
Hey, thanks!
Excellent video! Thanks for posting this. I'll be making a set of these.
thank u so much. ur ideas helped me here in india
Thank you very much for posting this info.
Even seeing the DIY toe jack is great.
Glad you enjoyed it! I built the skates with R10 bearings riding on 5/8" shafts, with the intention of keeping them very low profile, so I would not cause too much machine tilt when I put the first skate under. As it turns out, I ended up putting 2x4 spacers on the skates.
It seems logical that larger wheels would be more tolerant of rough concrete, especially a driveway. Just watch the slope and don't let it get away from you, of course =)
good stuff! thanks for taking the time to show how it's done!
I used three small floor jacks. Can make turns easily and lift and lower. You do need more room to turn though.
good tips - thanks! A year ago, I cut up some thick 20mm rubber pads (about 3/4"). Perhaps in the future, I'll mill some texture into the top surfaces of the skates to make them more slip resistant.
VERY HELPFUL !!!!! Many Thanks !!!!!
Glad you liked it!
Cool! I was looking for a way to move a mill around my garage, and that should work for me.
Similar to your toe jack, to put machinery mounts under my lathe I turned a cap and bolted a chain to it with a grab hook on each side of the cabinet on one end. Once lifted, I used a chunk of square tube as a safety stand while placing the mounts.
Thanks for sharing. Gave me some great ideas to help me move stuff now that my son has grown up. Wife is pretty useless when it comes to helping move anything heavier than a wallet.
Great simple idea - thanks.
Good job ;-) I've moved my letterpress equipment too many times to mention. Usually end up using steel roller under a corner. These look great...
Very nice. Gonna make some skates. Though I don't shop at Horrible Frate, I will make a jack from an old bottle jack. Thanks... Love the out-take, LOL.
thanks heaps . i will be making some on Monday
Thank you very much for such a helpful idea. More power!
Great video I plan on making a set of these, as I have a South Bend 13"x40" tool room lathe that I need to re-position in my garage. I moved it using (4) 1/2x24" steel pipe (3) 2x10 x12 boards and a engine hoist over 22 feet of gravel THEN up on the concrete. I was amazed how easily I could move the appox 1800 pound machine over gravel by myself using the board roller method (wouldn't want to do it all the time though) but it was a total pain to try and position the machine once in the garage and on the concrete with 12 foot boards took much longer than if I had had a set of these
Nice and useful, I've borrowed a set to move my lathe. (980lbs). For final placing in tight corners I use 2 small sheets of hardboard, shiny-sides together with a dusting of real talcum powder between the sheets, placed beneath the machine feet. This reduces the risk of a roller catching on a small bump and the machine slipping off sideways. The thing will slide freely, then the sheets can easily be slipped out.
Nice tip about the hardboard + talc!
Nice work!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks, glad you liked it!
Thanks for the video I will be making 4 of these asap!! so cool :)
Great idea. Machinery skates cost a small fortune.
Good work!
nice work bro, always up for saving $$ thx for sharing...
I'm happy to hear of your success! Even though I use them infrequently, they are one of my favorite tools - there's quite a sense of accomplishment moving around heavy machines like that.
Nice video, smart man 👍👍👏💐👏👏😘😘👍👍
Thanks Khaled!
excellent video, I will be building me a set
no se necesita mucha explicacion para darse cuenta que el metodo es genial, gracias por el aporte amigo
great video i appreciate your time and effort
I love it, nice done man!!!!!!
Thanks. I have enjoyed your videos.
Cheers.
Good stuff there. Had me cringing with the dog's paw though.
For all those wondering what parts I used, I added that in the description above along with links to where you can get them.
great video it's useful for me!
I use R10 bearings on 5/8" drill rod axles. The press fit worked out to be plenty to keep the bearings in place, but if I had problems, I would have remade them with snapring grooves to retain the bearings. One nice thing about the skates is that they don't raise the load very far.
You can use Watermelon skin, the best way to do that. Here in Mexico, we move Hyperbaric chambers with watermelon skin. Hyperbaric chambers can weight a lot.
thanks for the video man! very useful information!
I'm on it, thanks! I'm sick of rolling around on stupid pipe.
I purchased drill rod from Enco, with nominal OD matching the nominal bearing ID. It was a light or medium press fit. I tapped it on with a socket pushing on the inner race (so as not to damage the bearing). Drill rod is strong, has a precise OD, and cheap.
Everyone needs a little brother to help hahaha. I got one also lol.
i wish my company would provide the right shit to get the job done... time to take the matter into my own hands thanks for the video!
Nice work!
Is that a stunt dog with his paw under the machine when you jacked it up at 2.50? Great idea I have been toying with this idea to move a 750kg plus milling machine. I just have to learn to weld!
Mike
Ty man super helpful for what I’m trying to do!
Great, I love your videos.
Great Skates!
Very helpful and timely since I have a Bridgeport to move. What was the diameter of your axels? Looks like 3/4". Very well done video.
Thanks for making this video. It was very helpful.
Love it! Thank you thank you thank you.
Awesome! You're welcome, glad you enjoyed!
thanks for your sharing and I hope I am able to build ones.Would you mind giving me some advice and teaching me how to do that.Thank you for your help.
Nicely done, answered my question of how can I get my ironworker to move frontwards and backwards in my garage space and not change the height very much. Thanks
Glad it was helpful! Wow, you've got an ironworker in your garage? Fantastic!
Hey, thanks for featuring my video!
nice video.. i need these to move my washing machine with dryer sitting on top..
I need to move it just 2 feet away from the wall. i also need that particular custom Jack, to lift the washer off the floor.. is it something i can find in the store?
+Nehemiah Jandroep You can buy the red jack, but not the gray part he made that fits onto the jack. You have to make that part.
amaedesigns next project needs to be a handle the bleed off the jack. Just kidding you amaedesign . Nice project.
How heavy was that machine? I have to move a 2000 pound piece of equipment for a job soon and was looking for something like this.
Somewhere between 5500 and 6500 lbs if I remember right.
very useful
Super duper - great video
thanks
Awesome.... I just purchased a used Cincinatti arrow 500 VMC and I am wanting to move it myself. This idea is great!! What sort of bearings did you use to make them and is there some kinda keeper holding them onto the shaft? I know you said they were pressed on but with that much weight on them I would probably want to MAKE SURE they stay on. I suppose a threaded hole in the lathe and a simple bolt and washer not larger than the inner race would be pretty simple. That lathe is my next purchas
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it!
how you made axes aligned while welding ? in some comments lower I see good idea to make some threaded hole in mid of roller pad for bolt securing scate under your machine corner. I see you have holes for fixing cnc on basement or vibropad installing, using bolt you can stop scate rolling away and leave machine fliyng on other three scates
+Dmitry Ponyatov Aligning the axes was simple - I just didn't try too hard. The shafts are aligned to the cut edges of the skates, but I don't need the wheels to be precisely parallel to work well, so I just used a magnet to align the shaft and edge of the plate. Agreed, it would be better to use 3 skates, and a friction pad to keep them under the load.
very very helpful!
I used 5/8" drill rod axes with R10 bearings. Of course, you can use larger sizes for more capacity.
great one!!!
Thanks for posting. Good ideas.