I usually don't comment at all on UA-cam videos but for this one I had to because everything this guy made on this video and said on this video worked flawlessly for me, the only thing that I would add something that he didn't say was go get yourself a packet of those cheap shims that way you can put in front of the skate wheels to stop it from moving when you're jacking up The other side of what you try to move, because the first side that's already on the wheels moves so easily that they need to stop so you can actually get the machine up to get the second set of skates under it if you don't the Jack just basically pushed of the machine because the skates rolled so easily. Great video helped me alot
I’ve been stressing about moving a Bridgeport, a surface grinder and a metal lathe into my garage for the last two weeks. You just made my day. Thank you
Nice video! I once bought a mill for $550 and the rigger wanted $300 delivery, I took day off from work and accomplished that task by myself. Glad the child is learning skills and not busy playing video games!
I caution anyone using this method as you can see he is about to loose the front corner skate because the bearings on one of the other skates got stuck on loose concrete causing the front to almost slide off and cause a serious accident. Don't get me wrong this is a good method I would just have at least 3 people 4 would be better 1 to monitor each corner and move much slower. Watch the video again and you will see what I'm talking about. Besides that, great idea, great use of materials and great video. Thank you for sharing. You can bet I will be making some of these.
Eddie, you're right about the way I used the skates in the video. It's better to use 3 skates instead of 4. And it's best if you add thick rubber pads to the top of the skates to help them stay in place. Riphaven commented a while back and suggested welding bumps to the skates so they grip better when you're using a wood spacer.
Like I said, I made them. They work perfectly. I can push my 4000lb lathe anywhere I want now. Thanks so much for the idea. Honestly, without a way to move heavy machinery, I would never have bought a lathe!
Rick Rose Definitely use three, not four. Think "three legged stool," where all the legs will always be loaded. Add a 4th and the potential exists for one to be unloaded, as they found with the corner that slipped out. Even with a friction pad if it is unloaded it could slip out from under the load and lead to a tipping situation.
before i retired we used to have to move heavy equipment such as chiller condensers, boiler chambers and large pumps and motors. we used a commercially available device called a Multiton. it was similar to you skate except that it had several hardened rods used as rollers on each one. they could handle several tons each and with a johnson bar and 4 of them we could move anything we had to. I do like the skate idea for equipment under a couple of tons.....
So interesting. I thought the fixed line skates could not be a used to rotate objects. Very interesting. The trick now will be working out what orientation to put them in in order to move and rotate things.
Great vid, this helped me quite a bit. With crowded home shops we all need ways to move heavier and heavier equipment around. I thought a couple thousand pound machine was heavy until I heard you say 5500# and even in a small area. Being able to clean around machines is a must in small shop so my stuff is on wheels. Working on a system for being able to have one end on straight wheels and the front on a swivel with pull handle to steer and move lathes and mills.
Hey, glad it helped you! Before I knew how to do it, moving machines around was one of the bigger roadblocks to owning some of the very affordable used machine tools on the market. Always happy to hear others find it useful knowledge too!
agreed, they're not for every situation - certainly not for asphalt, or anything rougher. However, I used these on my rough concrete driveway which had beem broomed for texture. It was a little harder to push, but still workable for my load (around 5500 lbs). I was even able to push across the seams between the concrete slabs, which surprised me - I thought it was going to get stuck. It's good to have several tricks in the bag, including the pipe method you used.
I made my toe jack, and moved Bridgeport mills and 3,500 CNC mills one of the tools you just can not do things without! Also, I am making skates now... tires of the "pipe" method. I'll add a top layer of the stick-on traction (grip) tape because never metal-on-metal (even a piece of cardboard is better!) and low profile is needed because my CNC mill "just" clears the garage hight! - Thank you for providing the bearing size. I will cut snap ring groves into the rod and press in the bearings, and again use snap rings to keep then on securely No need to drill and tap (hardened steel is no joy to do this!)
Hey John, sorry to see your comment months late, but I appreciate your situation - I also had the 'low height garage' problem and can really relate! I'm sure you've built your skates by now, but another workable solution is to heat the bearing, chill the shaft/skate and then slip it on. If there is enough of an interference fit, it won't move. Of course it won't be serviceable either, but that's how I built mine. Sounds like yours are going to be much nicer. Thanks for the nice comment!
Good homemade skates. I will make some smaller ones for myself, so thanks for the idea. To stop the skate/s from slipping out from under the load, place a layer of compressible material on top of the skate, so that there is a layer between the skate and the weight. Rubber matting is ideal for this. Cut up old rubber car footmats, strips of garden hosepipe, or household door mats are a perfect solution. Thick cardboard will do the job, but obviously won't last as long.
Love it!! =) I'm about to go and purchse a 1300lbs lathe that I need to move, so I've been doing some research into what other people have done. I'm really grateful for your video and how well you've explained everything. Time to buy some steel plate, some rod and some bearings. And make some skates!! =) Many many thanks! Mich
Great video! Love the simple, home-made skates. It's nice to see someone using their brain! Over the years in my experience in industrial settings, I've seen a lot of crazy and dumb moves by workers. I'm always drilling into people's heads to "work smarter, not harder". Nice job and thanks for the ideas.
I use to be a rigger, you don't need rubber on the top of the skate, just make about five dimples with the welder,they don't need to be perfect. When you lower the weight on to the skate the dimples will push into the wood and hold them in place.
Great video, thanks! I think you can make it easier and safer quite easily - drill and tap the centre of the skates for a sturdy bolt, with a slight counterbore, then sandwich a thrust bearing (or just a greasy bronze washer) between skate and a top plate, a sleeve welded in the top plate and snuggish in the counterbore holds everything aligned while you position and run the bolt in (loosely) through the the hold-down holes in the machine base - the skates can't get away, and if you drill a hole or cut a slot in the face of the plate you can slip a lever in and point the skates where you'd like them to go! I'll be making some to move my lathe (4500 pounds) around the garage, but the roll in from the trailer will be on scaffold pole rollers - much easier on rough / softer surfaces like my crazed tarmac! One question, how would epoxy floor paint hold up to the skates?
Cool! I was looking for a way to move a mill around my garage, and that should work for me. Similar to your toe jack, to put machinery mounts under my lathe I turned a cap and bolted a chain to it with a grab hook on each side of the cabinet on one end. Once lifted, I used a chunk of square tube as a safety stand while placing the mounts.
good tips - thanks! A year ago, I cut up some thick 20mm rubber pads (about 3/4"). Perhaps in the future, I'll mill some texture into the top surfaces of the skates to make them more slip resistant.
Great video I plan on making a set of these, as I have a South Bend 13"x40" tool room lathe that I need to re-position in my garage. I moved it using (4) 1/2x24" steel pipe (3) 2x10 x12 boards and a engine hoist over 22 feet of gravel THEN up on the concrete. I was amazed how easily I could move the appox 1800 pound machine over gravel by myself using the board roller method (wouldn't want to do it all the time though) but it was a total pain to try and position the machine once in the garage and on the concrete with 12 foot boards took much longer than if I had had a set of these
Glad you enjoyed it! I built the skates with R10 bearings riding on 5/8" shafts, with the intention of keeping them very low profile, so I would not cause too much machine tilt when I put the first skate under. As it turns out, I ended up putting 2x4 spacers on the skates. It seems logical that larger wheels would be more tolerant of rough concrete, especially a driveway. Just watch the slope and don't let it get away from you, of course =)
thanks for your sharing and I hope I am able to build ones.Would you mind giving me some advice and teaching me how to do that.Thank you for your help.
Very nice. Gonna make some skates. Though I don't shop at Horrible Frate, I will make a jack from an old bottle jack. Thanks... Love the out-take, LOL.
nice video.. i need these to move my washing machine with dryer sitting on top.. I need to move it just 2 feet away from the wall. i also need that particular custom Jack, to lift the washer off the floor.. is it something i can find in the store?
+Nehemiah Jandroep You can buy the red jack, but not the gray part he made that fits onto the jack. You have to make that part. amaedesigns next project needs to be a handle the bleed off the jack. Just kidding you amaedesign . Nice project.
Nicely done, answered my question of how can I get my ironworker to move frontwards and backwards in my garage space and not change the height very much. Thanks
I purchased drill rod from Enco, with nominal OD matching the nominal bearing ID. It was a light or medium press fit. I tapped it on with a socket pushing on the inner race (so as not to damage the bearing). Drill rod is strong, has a precise OD, and cheap.
Awesome.... I just purchased a used Cincinatti arrow 500 VMC and I am wanting to move it myself. This idea is great!! What sort of bearings did you use to make them and is there some kinda keeper holding them onto the shaft? I know you said they were pressed on but with that much weight on them I would probably want to MAKE SURE they stay on. I suppose a threaded hole in the lathe and a simple bolt and washer not larger than the inner race would be pretty simple. That lathe is my next purchas
I use R10 bearings on 5/8" drill rod axles. The press fit worked out to be plenty to keep the bearings in place, but if I had problems, I would have remade them with snapring grooves to retain the bearings. One nice thing about the skates is that they don't raise the load very far.
how you made axes aligned while welding ? in some comments lower I see good idea to make some threaded hole in mid of roller pad for bolt securing scate under your machine corner. I see you have holes for fixing cnc on basement or vibropad installing, using bolt you can stop scate rolling away and leave machine fliyng on other three scates
+Dmitry Ponyatov Aligning the axes was simple - I just didn't try too hard. The shafts are aligned to the cut edges of the skates, but I don't need the wheels to be precisely parallel to work well, so I just used a magnet to align the shaft and edge of the plate. Agreed, it would be better to use 3 skates, and a friction pad to keep them under the load.
Nice and useful, I've borrowed a set to move my lathe. (980lbs). For final placing in tight corners I use 2 small sheets of hardboard, shiny-sides together with a dusting of real talcum powder between the sheets, placed beneath the machine feet. This reduces the risk of a roller catching on a small bump and the machine slipping off sideways. The thing will slide freely, then the sheets can easily be slipped out.
Is that a stunt dog with his paw under the machine when you jacked it up at 2.50? Great idea I have been toying with this idea to move a 750kg plus milling machine. I just have to learn to weld! Mike
Thanks for sharing. Gave me some great ideas to help me move stuff now that my son has grown up. Wife is pretty useless when it comes to helping move anything heavier than a wallet.
i would use either the ward wood or leave it as is but drill holes straight threw the wood and metal plate and countersink the holes so that you can bolt them on and wont have the issue of the wood sliding off.
I'm happy to hear of your success! Even though I use them infrequently, they are one of my favorite tools - there's quite a sense of accomplishment moving around heavy machines like that.
That worked well. But what when you have to move a machine into your garage, and the pavement and garage is not the same level? I used round pieces of wood, just like the Egyptians did. Many hobbyists do not have access to a welder... :(
You may be surprised to learn you can rent machine skates, which certainly would be nicer than the DIY set I'm showing here. The Egyptian method can get the job done, but in my experience it was always more trouble, especially when you want to turn a machine, or the floor is sloped. To deal with a level change between two concrete slabs, you could shim with wood, or just jack it up and move the skates across the gap, then drop it back down on the skates. There are a ton of ways - no one right way - and I encourage everyone to use their creativity and figure out what works best in each situation.
I used round pieces of wood, together wit a winch to pull it. Now I have an electric winch (like the ones they use on cars), on 12 volt, but not a power source for it yet. you can pull it uphill easily.
fantastico e isso que estava procurando amigo, poderia me passar lista material usado ? como espessura chapa,diametro eixo, e qual codigo rolamento e foi voce mesmo fabricou o macaco hidraulico p levantar a maquina? desde ja agradeco sua atencao se possivel
Usei rolamentos R10 e haste de perfuração de 5/8" porque essas peças eram fáceis de obter. A placa de aço superior tem cerca de 16 mm de espessura e cerca de 100x100 mm. No entanto, você pode facilmente escolher qualquer tamanho de rolamento e eixo que seja fácil de encontrar onde você ao vivo. Sugiro usar uma haste de broca endurecida para o eixo porque a superfície é precisa e resistirá à flexão. Se você tiver problemas para encaixar o rolamento, pode congelar o eixo e aquecer o rolamento no forno e, em seguida, montá-los. A parte superior a placa pode ter qualquer tamanho ou formato que você quiser. Espero ter ajudado! E caso precise de links dos rolamentos e eixo R10 que usei: R10 Bearing: amzn.to/3D6lN1W Axles (5/8" W1 Drill Rod): amzn.to/2yJBDg6
hi thanks for posting! We have the same kind of skates and about to move our centerless grinder! Do you have some more information on the custom tophat on the bottle jack? We've been trying to use the pry bar and it's a PITA. Thanks in advance for any information!
you could mount a thrust bearing in the top on your skates. This way, no matter which way you go the skates will turn along with the machine you are moving...by the way what is that machine anyway? A CNC turret lathe?
Very useful, thank you very much.... I have a machine with around 5000kg. how many skate i need to use??? is this bearing available in any local market or it is special type?? thank you
You can use Watermelon skin, the best way to do that. Here in Mexico, we move Hyperbaric chambers with watermelon skin. Hyperbaric chambers can weight a lot.
I am intend to move a 30tonne equipment. It will be grate full you can gives some idea on the roller skates. I' m thinking of making 4 skates with 10tonne capacity each. Please advice type and no of bearing for each skates, axle length and top plate thickness.
Ok im done. Seriously though. Any chance you give a little more information on the bearings? I have a bearing place just down the street from me, but im not even sure what to ask for. What diameter is that shaft? about .750"?
Thanks! i found those bearings for 2ea with a quick search. my previous plan, using material i had on hand. was 1/4" plate cut and welded into an E shape, a hole drilled through all 3 tines of the E with skateboard bearings filling the gaps. thats 608zz bearings, 730lbs dynamic load ea. 2 to 3 bearings per gap, would be 4-6 per axle and you could do 2-3 axles per skate, easily. 2 axle 8 bearing skate would be 2920 dynamic load, roughly, but slow moving halves that?? Is that plan total crap?
is that a Torin Big Red Jack? What a 5 or 10? Im a Rigger and we use pentagonal skates that swivel, we also have straight skates like these. Are skates are 90+ lbs a skate, so they are exhausting to tote all day long. Considering making lighter skates like these for moving our lighter machinery.
I usually don't comment at all on UA-cam videos but for this one I had to because everything this guy made on this video and said on this video worked flawlessly for me, the only thing that I would add something that he didn't say was go get yourself a packet of those cheap shims that way you can put in front of the skate wheels to stop it from moving when you're jacking up The other side of what you try to move, because the first side that's already on the wheels moves so easily that they need to stop so you can actually get the machine up to get the second set of skates under it if you don't the Jack just basically pushed of the machine because the skates rolled so easily.
Great video helped me alot
Hey Matt, glad this worked for you and thanks for adding the tip about using shims as brakes!
I’ve been stressing about moving a Bridgeport, a surface grinder and a metal lathe into my garage for the last two weeks. You just made my day. Thank you
Hey, happy to help!
great idea. I need to move a 5k+ milling machine. thanks for the build info
Hope you have a successful move!
I followed your video and made a set for my 1,850Lb surface grinder. Moved with one hand. Thanks for posting a great idea.
Nice video! I once bought a mill for $550 and the rigger wanted $300 delivery, I took day off from work and accomplished that task by myself. Glad the child is learning skills and not busy playing video games!
I caution anyone using this method as you can see he is about to loose the front corner skate because the bearings on one of the other skates got stuck on loose concrete causing the front to almost slide off and cause a serious accident. Don't get me wrong this is a good method I would just have at least 3 people 4 would be better 1 to monitor each corner and move much slower. Watch the video again and you will see what I'm talking about. Besides that, great idea, great use of materials and great video. Thank you for sharing. You can bet I will be making some of these.
Eddie, you're right about the way I used the skates in the video. It's better to use 3 skates instead of 4. And it's best if you add thick rubber pads to the top of the skates to help them stay in place. Riphaven commented a while back and suggested welding bumps to the skates so they grip better when you're using a wood spacer.
Moved very easily. Liked the 3 skate triangle, good idea. Good job you have a very smooth floor. Not so easy on rippled concrete! Thanks for posting
Like I said, I made them. They work perfectly. I can push my 4000lb lathe anywhere I want now. Thanks so much for the idea. Honestly, without a way to move heavy machinery, I would never have bought a lathe!
I am an iron worker/rigger by trade. In my opinion, you did a great job, both in fabrication and implication of the lift plan. Good job.
Thanks for the compliment! I have a ton of respect for professionals like you who handle much trickier loads day in and day out!
I had nearly the identical design in mind for both the toe jack and the skates--You've proven the concept. Thanks!
Rick Rose Definitely use three, not four. Think "three legged stool," where all the legs will always be loaded. Add a 4th and the potential exists for one to be unloaded, as they found with the corner that slipped out. Even with a friction pad if it is unloaded it could slip out from under the load and lead to a tipping situation.
Are you not making any more videos? Would be a shame. You are a natural in front of the camera, and very helpful and informative.
before i retired we used to have to move heavy equipment such as chiller condensers, boiler chambers and large pumps and motors. we used a commercially available device called a Multiton. it was similar to you skate except that it had several hardened rods used as rollers on each one. they could handle several tons each and with a johnson bar and 4 of them we could move anything we had to. I do like the skate idea for equipment under a couple of tons.....
Like a close up of your custom bottle jack mod.....the bearings are real slick...!
Great idea and the construction of the skates looks not complicated. Thanks
So interesting. I thought the fixed line skates could not be a used to rotate objects. Very interesting. The trick now will be working out what orientation to put them in in order to move and rotate things.
Great vid, this helped me quite a bit. With crowded home shops we all need ways to move heavier and heavier equipment around. I thought a couple thousand pound machine was heavy until I heard you say 5500# and even in a small area.
Being able to clean around machines is a must in small shop so my stuff is on wheels.
Working on a system for being able to have one end on straight wheels and the front on a swivel with pull handle to steer and move lathes and mills.
Hey, glad it helped you! Before I knew how to do it, moving machines around was one of the bigger roadblocks to owning some of the very affordable used machine tools on the market. Always happy to hear others find it useful knowledge too!
yes i must make some and i like your idea on the jack very good thanks
glad you enjoyed it!
I like the low profile. Love the toe jack. Hockey pucks work good to hold the machine on top of the skates.
Concise, infromative, and obviously well thought out and executed production.... thanks! Now to buy that Bridgeport mill I've been coveting.
agreed, they're not for every situation - certainly not for asphalt, or anything rougher. However, I used these on my rough concrete driveway which had beem broomed for texture. It was a little harder to push, but still workable for my load (around 5500 lbs). I was even able to push across the seams between the concrete slabs, which surprised me - I thought it was going to get stuck. It's good to have several tricks in the bag, including the pipe method you used.
I'm building a set this week!! Thank you!
I made my toe jack, and moved Bridgeport mills and 3,500 CNC mills one of the tools you just can not do things without! Also, I am making skates now... tires of the "pipe" method. I'll add a top layer of the stick-on traction (grip) tape because never metal-on-metal (even a piece of cardboard is better!) and low profile is needed because my CNC mill "just" clears the garage hight! - Thank you for providing the bearing size. I will cut snap ring groves into the rod and press in the bearings, and again use snap rings to keep then on securely No need to drill and tap (hardened steel is no joy to do this!)
Hey John, sorry to see your comment months late, but I appreciate your situation - I also had the 'low height garage' problem and can really relate! I'm sure you've built your skates by now, but another workable solution is to heat the bearing, chill the shaft/skate and then slip it on. If there is enough of an interference fit, it won't move. Of course it won't be serviceable either, but that's how I built mine. Sounds like yours are going to be much nicer. Thanks for the nice comment!
great simple method i especially like the toe jack. great video.thanks
Brilliant. I will be making a set of these. Thanks.
Good homemade skates. I will make some smaller ones for myself, so thanks for the idea. To stop the skate/s from slipping out from under the load, place a layer of compressible material on top of the skate, so that there is a layer between the skate and the weight. Rubber matting is ideal for this. Cut up old rubber car footmats, strips of garden hosepipe, or household door mats are a perfect solution. Thick cardboard will do the job, but obviously won't last as long.
Love it!! =) I'm about to go and purchse a 1300lbs lathe that I need to move, so I've been doing some research into what other people have done. I'm really grateful for your video and how well you've explained everything. Time to buy some steel plate, some rod and some bearings. And make some skates!! =) Many many thanks! Mich
Great video. I'm going to make a set of these to move my new to me Cadillac lathe.
Great video! Love the simple, home-made skates. It's nice to see someone using their brain! Over the years in my experience in industrial settings, I've seen a lot of crazy and dumb moves by workers. I'm always drilling into people's heads to "work smarter, not harder". Nice job and thanks for the ideas.
Awesome & thanks for your nice comment! That's the reason I made the video to share a simple and easy idea most people could replicate.
That was awesome, the kid and you make a good team!
Great ingenuity, thanks for sharing.
I use to be a rigger, you don't need rubber on the top of the skate, just make about five dimples with the welder,they don't need to be perfect. When you lower the weight on to the skate the dimples will push into the wood and hold them in place.
Thanks for the tip Riphaven! I'll have to give that a try!
did you ever try the idea with the dimples? i should also said we cut out pieces of ply wood that fit on top of the skates.
riphaven Not yet, but I plan to for the next set I make. Currently, I'm using very thick cast urethane pads.
riphaven þŕ_5 5xl shirt 5
Thanks for sharing, your bottle jack mod is great!
Great video, thanks!
I think you can make it easier and safer quite easily - drill and tap the centre of the skates for a sturdy bolt, with a slight counterbore, then sandwich a thrust bearing (or just a greasy bronze washer) between skate and a top plate, a sleeve welded in the top plate and snuggish in the counterbore holds everything aligned while you position and run the bolt in (loosely) through the the hold-down holes in the machine base - the skates can't get away, and if you drill a hole or cut a slot in the face of the plate you can slip a lever in and point the skates where you'd like them to go!
I'll be making some to move my lathe (4500 pounds) around the garage, but the roll in from the trailer will be on scaffold pole rollers - much easier on rough / softer surfaces like my crazed tarmac!
One question, how would epoxy floor paint hold up to the skates?
Simply fabulous - I need to build some skates and modify my harbor freight jack
+Dick Damian, glad you liked the video!
Thanks a lot for showing me the way to handle heavy loads.
Regards
Thank you a great video. Just about to move a machine and it was a great help!
Cool! I was looking for a way to move a mill around my garage, and that should work for me.
Similar to your toe jack, to put machinery mounts under my lathe I turned a cap and bolted a chain to it with a grab hook on each side of the cabinet on one end. Once lifted, I used a chunk of square tube as a safety stand while placing the mounts.
good tips - thanks! A year ago, I cut up some thick 20mm rubber pads (about 3/4"). Perhaps in the future, I'll mill some texture into the top surfaces of the skates to make them more slip resistant.
Excellent video! Thanks for posting this. I'll be making a set of these.
Great video I plan on making a set of these, as I have a South Bend 13"x40" tool room lathe that I need to re-position in my garage. I moved it using (4) 1/2x24" steel pipe (3) 2x10 x12 boards and a engine hoist over 22 feet of gravel THEN up on the concrete. I was amazed how easily I could move the appox 1800 pound machine over gravel by myself using the board roller method (wouldn't want to do it all the time though) but it was a total pain to try and position the machine once in the garage and on the concrete with 12 foot boards took much longer than if I had had a set of these
I used three small floor jacks. Can make turns easily and lift and lower. You do need more room to turn though.
Glad you enjoyed it! I built the skates with R10 bearings riding on 5/8" shafts, with the intention of keeping them very low profile, so I would not cause too much machine tilt when I put the first skate under. As it turns out, I ended up putting 2x4 spacers on the skates.
It seems logical that larger wheels would be more tolerant of rough concrete, especially a driveway. Just watch the slope and don't let it get away from you, of course =)
thanks for your sharing and I hope I am able to build ones.Would you mind giving me some advice and teaching me how to do that.Thank you for your help.
Very nice. Gonna make some skates. Though I don't shop at Horrible Frate, I will make a jack from an old bottle jack. Thanks... Love the out-take, LOL.
nice video.. i need these to move my washing machine with dryer sitting on top..
I need to move it just 2 feet away from the wall. i also need that particular custom Jack, to lift the washer off the floor.. is it something i can find in the store?
+Nehemiah Jandroep You can buy the red jack, but not the gray part he made that fits onto the jack. You have to make that part.
amaedesigns next project needs to be a handle the bleed off the jack. Just kidding you amaedesign . Nice project.
Nicely done, answered my question of how can I get my ironworker to move frontwards and backwards in my garage space and not change the height very much. Thanks
Glad it was helpful! Wow, you've got an ironworker in your garage? Fantastic!
I purchased drill rod from Enco, with nominal OD matching the nominal bearing ID. It was a light or medium press fit. I tapped it on with a socket pushing on the inner race (so as not to damage the bearing). Drill rod is strong, has a precise OD, and cheap.
We could have saved a lot of effort had I seen your video earlier. Great idea and great equipment.
thanks heaps . i will be making some on Monday
Thank you very much for posting this info.
Even seeing the DIY toe jack is great.
Awesome.... I just purchased a used Cincinatti arrow 500 VMC and I am wanting to move it myself. This idea is great!! What sort of bearings did you use to make them and is there some kinda keeper holding them onto the shaft? I know you said they were pressed on but with that much weight on them I would probably want to MAKE SURE they stay on. I suppose a threaded hole in the lathe and a simple bolt and washer not larger than the inner race would be pretty simple. That lathe is my next purchas
excellent video, I will be building me a set
Very well presented. Great ideas. Thanks.
Hey, thanks!
I use R10 bearings on 5/8" drill rod axles. The press fit worked out to be plenty to keep the bearings in place, but if I had problems, I would have remade them with snapring grooves to retain the bearings. One nice thing about the skates is that they don't raise the load very far.
how you made axes aligned while welding ? in some comments lower I see good idea to make some threaded hole in mid of roller pad for bolt securing scate under your machine corner. I see you have holes for fixing cnc on basement or vibropad installing, using bolt you can stop scate rolling away and leave machine fliyng on other three scates
+Dmitry Ponyatov Aligning the axes was simple - I just didn't try too hard. The shafts are aligned to the cut edges of the skates, but I don't need the wheels to be precisely parallel to work well, so I just used a magnet to align the shaft and edge of the plate. Agreed, it would be better to use 3 skates, and a friction pad to keep them under the load.
Good job ;-) I've moved my letterpress equipment too many times to mention. Usually end up using steel roller under a corner. These look great...
You Sir deserve more views,this helped me alot.Thanks man
glad it helped!
good stuff! thanks for taking the time to show how it's done!
Nice work!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks, glad you liked it!
Nice and useful, I've borrowed a set to move my lathe. (980lbs). For final placing in tight corners I use 2 small sheets of hardboard, shiny-sides together with a dusting of real talcum powder between the sheets, placed beneath the machine feet. This reduces the risk of a roller catching on a small bump and the machine slipping off sideways. The thing will slide freely, then the sheets can easily be slipped out.
Nice tip about the hardboard + talc!
Is that a stunt dog with his paw under the machine when you jacked it up at 2.50? Great idea I have been toying with this idea to move a 750kg plus milling machine. I just have to learn to weld!
Mike
Thank you very much for such a helpful idea. More power!
I'm on it, thanks! I'm sick of rolling around on stupid pipe.
Thanks for sharing. Gave me some great ideas to help me move stuff now that my son has grown up. Wife is pretty useless when it comes to helping move anything heavier than a wallet.
i would use either the ward wood or leave it as is but drill holes straight threw the wood and metal plate and countersink the holes so that you can bolt them on and wont have the issue of the wood sliding off.
Excellent your job and excellent your ideas.
Congratulations guy.
Greetings from Colombia
Great video, your idea solved me a big problem. But, what is the diameter of those shafts? Thank you very much!
Thanks for the video I will be making 4 of these asap!! so cool :)
I love it, nice done man!!!!!!
I'm happy to hear of your success! Even though I use them infrequently, they are one of my favorite tools - there's quite a sense of accomplishment moving around heavy machines like that.
nice work bro, always up for saving $$ thx for sharing...
great video i appreciate your time and effort
That worked well.
But what when you have to move a machine into your garage, and the pavement and garage is not the same level?
I used round pieces of wood, just like the Egyptians did.
Many hobbyists do not have access to a welder... :(
You may be surprised to learn you can rent machine skates, which certainly would be nicer than the DIY set I'm showing here. The Egyptian method can get the job done, but in my experience it was always more trouble, especially when you want to turn a machine, or the floor is sloped. To deal with a level change between two concrete slabs, you could shim with wood, or just jack it up and move the skates across the gap, then drop it back down on the skates. There are a ton of ways - no one right way - and I encourage everyone to use their creativity and figure out what works best in each situation.
I used round pieces of wood, together wit a winch to pull it.
Now I have an electric winch (like the ones they use on cars), on 12 volt, but not a power source for it yet.
you can pull it uphill easily.
ColtDeltaElite10mm
I will get me a good one.
fantastico e isso que estava procurando amigo, poderia me passar lista material usado ? como espessura chapa,diametro eixo, e qual codigo rolamento e foi voce mesmo fabricou o macaco hidraulico p levantar a maquina? desde ja agradeco sua atencao se possivel
Usei rolamentos R10 e haste de perfuração de 5/8" porque essas peças eram fáceis de obter. A placa de aço superior tem cerca de 16 mm de espessura e cerca de 100x100 mm. No entanto, você pode facilmente escolher qualquer tamanho de rolamento e eixo que seja fácil de encontrar onde você ao vivo. Sugiro usar uma haste de broca endurecida para o eixo porque a superfície é precisa e resistirá à flexão. Se você tiver problemas para encaixar o rolamento, pode congelar o eixo e aquecer o rolamento no forno e, em seguida, montá-los. A parte superior a placa pode ter qualquer tamanho ou formato que você quiser. Espero ter ajudado!
E caso precise de links dos rolamentos e eixo R10 que usei:
R10 Bearing: amzn.to/3D6lN1W
Axles (5/8" W1 Drill Rod): amzn.to/2yJBDg6
Good work!
Great idea. Machinery skates cost a small fortune.
What type of steel did you use for the plate?
+Finn Custom Knives , I just used mild steel. It's 1/2" flat bar, cut to length. At that thickness, any steel will do.
VERY HELPFUL !!!!! Many Thanks !!!!!
Glad you liked it!
hi thanks for posting! We have the same kind of skates and about to move our centerless grinder!
Do you have some more information on the custom tophat on the bottle jack? We've been trying to use the pry bar and it's a PITA. Thanks in advance for any information!
+Paul Boonyanetr , I'm planning a follow-up video showing some more moving techniques, along with more detail about that jack.
Awesome, looking forward to it!
Very helpful and timely since I have a Bridgeport to move. What was the diameter of your axels? Looks like 3/4". Very well done video.
Great job.. what is the total weight of that machine bythe way..
you could mount a thrust bearing in the top on your skates. This way, no matter which way you go the skates will turn along with the machine you are moving...by the way
what is that machine anyway? A CNC turret lathe?
Great simple idea - thanks.
Very useful, thank you very much.... I have a machine with around 5000kg. how many skate i need to use??? is this bearing available in any local market or it is special type??
thank you
I used 5/8" drill rod axes with R10 bearings. Of course, you can use larger sizes for more capacity.
How heavy was that machine? I have to move a 2000 pound piece of equipment for a job soon and was looking for something like this.
Somewhere between 5500 and 6500 lbs if I remember right.
Nice video, smart man 👍👍👏💐👏👏😘😘👍👍
Thanks Khaled!
You can use Watermelon skin, the best way to do that. Here in Mexico, we move Hyperbaric chambers with watermelon skin. Hyperbaric chambers can weight a lot.
Hi, am building some skates to your design. I have some 6203 bearings (17mm id)
What diam did you use for a press fit on your skates?
no se necesita mucha explicacion para darse cuenta que el metodo es genial, gracias por el aporte amigo
I am intend to move a 30tonne equipment. It will be grate full you can gives some idea on the roller skates. I' m thinking of making 4 skates with 10tonne capacity each. Please advice type and no of bearing for each skates, axle length and top plate thickness.
thank u so much. ur ideas helped me here in india
Great Skates!
thanks for the video man! very useful information!
great video it's useful for me!
Ty man super helpful for what I’m trying to do!
Ok im done. Seriously though. Any chance you give a little more information on the bearings? I have a bearing place just down the street from me, but im not even sure what to ask for. What diameter is that shaft? about .750"?
Thanks. I have enjoyed your videos.
Cheers.
Thanks! i found those bearings for 2ea with a quick search. my previous plan, using material i had on hand. was 1/4" plate cut and welded into an E shape, a hole drilled through all 3 tines of the E with skateboard bearings filling the gaps. thats 608zz bearings, 730lbs dynamic load ea. 2 to 3 bearings per gap, would be 4-6 per axle and you could do 2-3 axles per skate, easily. 2 axle 8 bearing skate would be 2920 dynamic load, roughly, but slow moving halves that?? Is that plan total crap?
Where did you get your bearings? Will something like skateboard bearings work with 8 per skate?
is that a Torin Big Red Jack? What a 5 or 10? Im a Rigger and we use pentagonal skates that swivel, we also have straight skates like these. Are skates are 90+ lbs a skate, so they are exhausting to tote all day long. Considering making lighter skates like these for moving our lighter machinery.