Great job John and Jen! I've been watching a bunch of you vids. Sounds like more are coming. Hoping to come see you before next season for a consult and possibly dual rates on my stock WE's.
John, when you're trying new rear torsion springs for a sled, no you initially try setting the sag with the adjuster set to the 'middle' allowing for adjustment in both directions? I se online guys throwing springs at sleds but no mention of where the adjuster is. Like you mention in the video, the sag may be OK for a 'light situation' but if you're maxxed out on the adjustment in either direction in a lightly or loaded condition, you may not have any more adjustment.
Generally, you should get a static sag measurement, and then determine the amount of rider sag from the static sag measurement ... rider sag should not be determined from an uncompressed suspension, as you've demonstrated here. Also, as you point out, rider sag should be measured with the rider in full gear, as well as with anything else you plan to carry. Something this video lacks is how to determine proper sag (you could at least mention whether the sled manufacture has a recommending range, and where one can look to find this info). I don't know if you intend to make a video showing what adjustments should be made to bring the sag into the manufacturer's recommended range, but if not, you also left out how to adjust spring pre-load, and what effects will occur with adjustments to each shock in the skid.
I disagree completely. We ALWAYS check rider sag from completely topped up. We also measure static sag as you have indicated (difference between topped up and vehicle only). Comparing the static sag to the rider sag can tell us lots about the rate of the spring and amount of preload required to hit sag. We posted a second video a few hours that does indeed show us adjusting the preload and it's effect on the spring to hit target sag. I do however appreciate all your negative comments and i will try to do better next time.
Coming from the dirt bike works we always check static sag first, then go off of that number to get the sag we want, agree you need a rider in full gear and sled with all the accessories to get a good set up
Yes I am with you there. I lift sled let it settle back down to resting position and go from there. I got that way from a BRP rep. and have always done it that way with good luck. I am sure there are a few good ways as long as you do it the same all the time you will still get the same result. Even if you do it his way vs mine it will be within the range anyway. From lifted off the ground to sitting on the ground I only loose about 1/2" so if your range is 2-3 of sag then even with that 1/2 loss still in the window. Just my thoughts and it's always worked for me.
Great job John and Jen! I've been watching a bunch of you vids. Sounds like more are coming. Hoping to come see you before next season for a consult and possibly dual rates on my stock WE's.
Helpful video, thank you!
John, when you're trying new rear torsion springs for a sled, no you initially try setting the sag with the adjuster set to the 'middle' allowing for adjustment in both directions? I se online guys throwing springs at sleds but no mention of where the adjuster is. Like you mention in the video, the sag may be OK for a 'light situation' but if you're maxxed out on the adjustment in either direction in a lightly or loaded condition, you may not have any more adjustment.
Generally, you should get a static sag measurement, and then determine the amount of rider sag from the static sag measurement ... rider sag should not be determined from an uncompressed suspension, as you've demonstrated here. Also, as you point out, rider sag should be measured with the rider in full gear, as well as with anything else you plan to carry. Something this video lacks is how to determine proper sag (you could at least mention whether the sled manufacture has a recommending range, and where one can look to find this info). I don't know if you intend to make a video showing what adjustments should be made to bring the sag into the manufacturer's recommended range, but if not, you also left out how to adjust spring pre-load, and what effects will occur with adjustments to each shock in the skid.
I disagree completely. We ALWAYS check rider sag from completely topped up. We also measure static sag as you have indicated (difference between topped up and vehicle only). Comparing the static sag to the rider sag can tell us lots about the rate of the spring and amount of preload required to hit sag. We posted a second video a few hours that does indeed show us adjusting the preload and it's effect on the spring to hit target sag. I do however appreciate all your negative comments and i will try to do better next time.
Coming from the dirt bike works we always check static sag first, then go off of that number to get the sag we want, agree you need a rider in full gear and sled with all the accessories to get a good set up
Yes I am with you there. I lift sled let it settle back down to resting position and go from there. I got that way from a BRP rep. and have always done it that way with good luck. I am sure there are a few good ways as long as you do it the same all the time you will still get the same result. Even if you do it his way vs mine it will be within the range anyway. From lifted off the ground to sitting on the ground I only loose about 1/2" so if your range is 2-3 of sag then even with that 1/2 loss still in the window. Just my thoughts and it's always worked for me.
Never showed how to set it. Not good video at all
Hi. Is it a problem to add only one (1) stiffer torsion spring. My problem is going with both stiffer torsion springs will be way too stiff.