You should be tightening the lugs in a crosswise pattern, not going around in a circle. And you should only do the final torquing with a torque wrench because it’s easy to exceed the 80 lb/ft specification.
Kelvin, that is an exceptionally useful tour de force of the Civic drum brake. Easy to follow. I've got a bizarre situation with my passengers side drum, under hard braking it locks up before either of the front discs or the driver's side. It skids. Would this be remedied by releasing the pre-set click wheel to other way? It is particularly noticeable when the roads are wet.
Which direction should I move that cog wheel?? Up or down?? I want the brakes to be activated as soon as I press the brake pedal. The wheel cylinders was replaced recently. I have a 2009 civic with rear drums
Unless you're changing your brake shoes completely, you don't have to manually adjust. The adjuster has threads on it, like a bolt, so that it unscrews a little bit when it turns, lengthening to fill in the gap. When the brake shoes wear a little more, the adjuster can advance again, so it always keeps the shoes close to the drum.
If that is the intended design, it doesn’t work that well on this car. You could drive for years without the shoes wearing down because they lose contact with the drum and never self-adjust.
Not saying it’s true or false, just curious and surprised. How often do you change the rear shoes? If you ever get a chance to perform this adjustment, you will feel an immediate difference in the rear brake bias. I didn’t do this for many years and the car still stopped ok but relied mostly on the front pads. Good luck and thanks for the input!
Yes you are absolutely correct I didn’t adjust my rear drum brakes for at least 10 years and the car took some effort to stop although it stopped ok but after adjusting the rear drum brakes to have a slight drag it made a noticeable difference in stopping power by the way the rear drum shoes looked like it was barely used but in that 10-12 years I had my 2010 Civic I replaced my front pads 3 times and front rotors 1 time thereby proving that the front brakes was doing most of the work
Never use water from nozzle to clean inner brakes…always use brake cleaner from can found in local hardware store. Straight water will only create rust in the inner brake mechanism!
I would not hesitate to use water on a warm sunny summer afternoon, those components will dry quickly and without rust forming. It is not a fully sealed system and I think Kelvin is right about brake cleaner solvent removing required lubrication. That is a bigger issue if you don't want to pull everything about.
Water should be fine as long as it dries up and doesn’t cause rust to occur. Drive slowly after rinsing and heat from the drum brakes should dry up any residual moisture.
@@lilpepper989 nah bro. This is one of the few reasons why small UA-cam channels don't go big. You need to learn top of the line video, sound editing skills to make it big here. Just make sure you are not going overboard with it. I get it its his channel and can do whatever he likes. Just putting out a constructive criticism
You should be tightening the lugs in a crosswise pattern, not going around in a circle. And you should only do the final torquing with a torque wrench because it’s easy to exceed the 80 lb/ft specification.
Kelvin, that is an exceptionally useful tour de force of the Civic drum brake. Easy to follow. I've got a bizarre situation with my passengers side drum, under hard braking it locks up before either of the front discs or the driver's side. It skids. Would this be remedied by releasing the pre-set click wheel to other way? It is particularly noticeable when the roads are wet.
Yes, you should try to reduce the brake bias by rotating the adjuster the other way. Check the wheel drag as an indicator of tightness.
Thanks you, your video is more effective nice and for all.
Take a shot every time he says okay or alright
Which direction should I move that cog wheel?? Up or down?? I want the brakes to be activated as soon as I press the brake pedal. The wheel cylinders was replaced recently. I have a 2009 civic with rear drums
You can tell by looking at the adjuster whether your Lengthening or shortening the adjuster
Unless you're changing your brake shoes completely, you don't have to manually adjust. The adjuster has threads on it, like a bolt, so that it unscrews a little bit when it turns, lengthening to fill in the gap. When the brake shoes wear a little more, the adjuster can advance again, so it always keeps the shoes close to the drum.
If that is the intended design, it doesn’t work that well on this car. You could drive for years without the shoes wearing down because they lose contact with the drum and never self-adjust.
@@kelvinsgarage If you say so...I have a Civic and never had to...
Not saying it’s true or false, just curious and surprised. How often do you change the rear shoes? If you ever get a chance to perform this adjustment, you will feel an immediate difference in the rear brake bias. I didn’t do this for many years and the car still stopped ok but relied mostly on the front pads. Good luck and thanks for the input!
Yes you are absolutely correct I didn’t adjust my rear drum brakes for at least 10 years and the car took some effort to stop although it stopped ok but after adjusting the rear drum brakes to have a slight drag it made a noticeable difference in stopping power by the way the rear drum shoes looked like it was barely used but in that 10-12 years I had my 2010 Civic I replaced my front pads 3 times and front rotors 1 time thereby proving that the front brakes was doing most of the work
Your voice reminds me of the Rabbi from Seinfeld who has the hots for Elaine.
Or you can tightened it up thru the access hole behind the hub. Taking the tire off is absolutely unnecessary
Never use water from nozzle to clean inner brakes…always use brake cleaner from can found in local hardware store. Straight water will only create rust in the inner brake mechanism!
I would not hesitate to use water on a warm sunny summer afternoon, those components will dry quickly and without rust forming. It is not a fully sealed system and I think Kelvin is right about brake cleaner solvent removing required lubrication. That is a bigger issue if you don't want to pull everything about.
They are suppose to self adjust
un'fortunatly its not but in trucks they have this technology in airbrakes auto slack adjusters hit 2 hard brakes and it adjusts automatically
the adjuster teeth of my hyundai accent won't turn..I guess its stucked?
try to spray some wd40 or lubricant on the adjuster screw. but be careful not to get it on the brake shoes or drum.
Should water be used ,I would have thought water is the last thing I’d want to use on brakes
Water should be fine as long as it dries up and doesn’t cause rust to occur. Drive slowly after rinsing and heat from the drum brakes should dry up any residual moisture.
water inside your brake drum LOL.. people DO NOT DO THIS!!!!!!!!!
You talk too much
It’s his channel, Just get off it.
You kidding me? You are not supposed to rinse all that poisonous stuff straight into the nature!!!!
I hate these 30 minute walk throughs that assume ive never touched a car. Get to the point.
Yeah you talk to muck.. that may sound rude but a good amoutnof editing and getting strate to the point would be more helpful
It’s his channel, He does as he please.
@@lilpepper989 yeah he can, thanks for telling us what we already know.
@@lilpepper989 nah bro. This is one of the few reasons why small UA-cam channels don't go big. You need to learn top of the line video, sound editing skills to make it big here. Just make sure you are not going overboard with it. I get it its his channel and can do whatever he likes. Just putting out a constructive criticism