@@SkitZHitZ Peopoly Moai is a Laser SLS printer. The resin used will cure when it is hit with a certain wavelength of light. Once you've washed off all the excess resin from the printed prop you need to properly cure it using UV light. This can be done in sunlight as well but most of us end up using a UV chamber of some sort to do it quickly / efficiently.
@@SkitZHitZ it cures the resin. when the uv laser cures the resin to make the part/prop it is still in the bath of resin and some will stick to the surface. which is why you clean it. The resin that was cured by the laser however is in a "green" state, and it isn't fully cured yet. The uv light finishes the curing.
Christopher Maschek small mistake made here, it’s not a dagger, it’s a throwing knife. See how it doesn’t have a hand guard, is perforated, and has a handle loop? That means it’s most likely a throwing knife.
Thanks for letting us know you're interested in that build! We have our current schedule worked out, but there could be room for this kind of video in future plans.
Absolutely the most useful, helpful, friendly and delightful 3D Printing, Mold Making & Casting Video Tutorial EVER. @Punished Props Academy Forever! Thank you.
Bill also think about manually adding your own supports. You could move them to flat surfaces and not on those edges that may be hard to sand away or on any place that has a detailed textured surface. 5 more minutes in the slicer could save you 20+ minutes of finishing work.
I am not sure if the matter hackers resin is less brittle than the resin from form labs, but I have found that using a higher grit sandpaper - such as starting at 600 or 800 - reduces clean up time. The material sands off very easily and already has a fairly smooth finish. One more reason to make a mold is that many conventions do not allow a rigid blade, and you can cast your items is flexible rubber or foam. Also, you can go the other way, as you have done in the past, and cast the part out of a low melt metal like pewter, or make a wax piece for a lost wax process. Also, I am very impressed with how well your mold came out. A split mold with a cut through is scarier that I would usually attempt, and you cut it so that it had minimal clean up. Please take a bow for that!
I would print the Eye of Agamotto from Doctor Strange. All those little teeny tiny runes on almost the entire surface would be amazing to see printed with this printer... I wish I had the funds...goshdang!
I know I'm late to the party on this one, and I'm certain others have mentioned this, but that "circle with an X in it" yeah that's supposed to be another, larger, screw.... This was amazing, I've just recently started watching your videos, and they're amazing
The detail off the Moai is amazing, and that build volume is enviable! If you're going to do a bunch of SLA printing and don't fancy molding every piece, it might be worth checking out some less brittle resins. Siraya blu is a really solid engineering resin. I also know a few people that mix Monocure Flex with other resins to make them less brittle but I haven't tried that myself.
A Faberge Egg including the iconic carriage would be a real test of the detail ability of the printer. It would probably need to be printed in 2 parts. But I think it would give the printer a real workout
5:00 Hmmmm... I was thinking about printing weapons... If i had the cash... But I'll find other ways of making it. 22:59 "Toasty!" I was avoiding this video thinking I was going to come back to it but now I'm glad I did! It's resin based too!
The amount of work and time put into this is crazy . Your a great crafts men and thank u for not having 5 minute videos and showing everything. Everyone should be thanking u for ur work
I clearly have an issue, at 39:04 I told myself, "That looks like a screw from a blaster like an older N-strike blaster" and you immediately confirm my absolutely ridiculous hunch. Newer N-strike Elite blasters and Rebelle and stuff normally use those weird cylinder-head screws. If I had to guess the blaster I'm going with Longshot.
That 45 minutes went way too quick, so it certainly is true that time flies when you are having fun. Awesome build bill and I definitely had to agree with Britt about adding more powder to the resin. Looks awesome you guys
so... almost a year late commenting. but... MAN! the confidence to be talking to camera and pouring silicone at the same time! Bravo The end product looks amzing! Thanks for taking the time to create, film and share :)
one thing i thought about for the vent is to put something like a pvc dowel next to the piece for the mold so you have a nice big vent right out the gate and then trim the little channels. really enjoy these videos and thanks for continuing to make them
Looks awesome! That iridescent purple was definitely a nice touch. One idea I thought would be cool to make would be a Jedi or Sith holocron, especially the Jedi holocron since it has some moving parts
Something you could do as a 'one step further' since the purple resin was translucent - could drill out the large screw head you painted gold and glue in a coin-battery powered LED to make the whole thing glow from inside.
After watching countless hours of these videos I was inspired to finally make my own prop gun which actually turned out pretty awesome and I think this place in this channel prayer helping make that an awesome reality I don't know if you're going to see this but either way I want a thank you to be somewhere on your Channel
I've done most of my moulds with 14NV and it's been amazing. Super durable and is pretty good at not leaving bubbles but you do get some if you're not careful.
This printers seem pretty cool. The post printing process you showed is about the same as what I use for printing dentures and dental models on the Carbon at work, except the Carbon would have probably printed it a heck of a lot faster. That thing is crazy fast and the prints look so smooth! I wish I could use it for personal stuff once in a while.
Yeah, I would use that as a positive to make the negative for molds and then redo this knife in aluminum. Hopefully the mold catches the fine details, but if they are a little weak just do a little dremel work and get those in there, hammer harden the edge, make sure it is sharp and bingo you have a working knife. Afterwards you can annodize it if you want and have it those different colors. If you can make a permanent negative, or if you are willing to make a lot of sand molds, then you can make a bunch of them to have on a bandolier for a cosplay of a rogue.
Bill, I know a lot of people who are using resin printers for making miniatures have started adding some flex resin to their standard printing resin to add some durability and reduce the brittleness of their prints.
Nice video!! You should try to print a battering from Batman beyond. Bill when you use the pressure pot it will take longer for it to cure due to the solvent can off-gas out anywhere cuz it's under pressure so it stays softer longer. This happens to a lot of urethane and alkaline paints in the Northwest due to temperature and humidity.
I find for larger parts that a nail brush works well to clean it. Just a little faster than the toothbrush. I would also work on picking support locations that are on flat surfaces and away from detail as it makes it much easier to sand.
Fantastic project! Appreciate the tips on a one piece mold. I too often make two part molds, when carefully cut one-piece would be much quicker after seeing this!
I'm really impressed with your ability to speak to the camera while pouring. It'd be all over my feet! Could you make the sprue/support as a component, with a corresponding hole in the dagger, and print it at the same time? How much would the 12-inch print cost a member of the public? How much is the materials cost of the mould and the casting? Thanks
ive seen a technique where you use the moai (or a formlabs) to print the actual mold, basically a negative of your prop with sprue and vent holes as well as some screw threads then inject the resin in (after spraying some mold release) with a baster... looked pretty cool.. ever tried it ? thought it may be fun since you had the moai
Great video as always. Love you all and always manage to learn something even when I think there's nothing left. In this case, it was the mold cutting knife. Fantastic idea. Thanks. Maybe I can give some of that knowledge dropping back. Literally, the easiest way to harden steel is to get it hot then dip it in cool (not cold, slightly cooler than room temp) water. It's probably still hot enough after you are done bending it, but maybe one more quick lick with the torch then in a cup of water and you're good. Hope it helps! Thanks again for the awesome videos!!
if you plan to print it again maybe print it in two halfs and then glue them together so you can sand the inside just flat and you dont loose the fine printing details
Considering the material, a gunpla modeling trick is removing the nubs with an exacto knife. I have always loved these printers. Unfortunately the price and cost of build material has always shy'd me away cheers keep up the amazing vids
not a prop but i'd print housings for all sorts of things, i recon the dimensional accuracy aswell as the surface finish are really tempting to do like a handheld arcade/retro gaming device with raspi zero internals
Totally did not know SLA prints were so brittle. I've been trying to do tiny Captain America shields for a friend who does toy photography, and my Prusa simply can't get that level of detail. Plus the support side is so gnarly. Gotta save up for an SLA printer!
unasked for 2C worth not got a SLA printer, but from my education from the University of youtube its apparently easer to remove all the supports (clean up the contact points) before UV curing, it will prevent the 'divit' resulting from breaking a hardened resin
I would print a broche or pendant. Like the Leaf of Lothlorien without the green (clear green resin that). Or Arwen's Evenstar. Or the Phantomhive logo broche. Something with plenty of detail, really small and hard for normal printer
Hi Bill! first my quilifications, I have had a form 1 and form 2 for the past 5 years, and have grown hundreds of SLA prints, and cleaned them up, some advice. 1. Don't put supports on detail parts, or in low areas if possible, for this dagger, I would have added an extra bit on the knife edge and put the supports there and on some high points on the side, to support it from side to side, if you do that, there will be no clean up in the low areas. You can orient it any way you want, and you don't have to accept the support sudgestions that the program does.. cull as many supports as you can. 2. Seen you use putty to fill in the divots of the supports, advice is, use the UV resin as a filler, and shoot a UV lazer on the spot, or throw it in the UV oven, or in the sun for abit, and just sand away!. 3. use citedel Corax white paint.. sticks quite well to the resin. Good luck on future prints!
If u guys ever are gonna do another apex heirloom which I’d love to watch because I’m currently in the process to gather the materials in order to make this beautiful prop would be bloodhounds raven claw heirloom or octane butterfly knife heirloom. Either way I’m glad u guys made this vid cause it inspired me to actually start making something cool such as this 👍👍👍
I love SLA printers. You should try using clear resin it looks so good and would be great for lights!!! Other cool things are the gears and moving parts you can make. I highly recommend trying that. On thing I've always want to try but haven't had the chance to is adding glow powder to the resin. You'd have to be careful with the amount to get an even glow and make sure it cures properly but if it works it would be epic!
Friggin gorgeous end result. Super cool watching your process! Careful waving that xacto blade around! Would. Have loved to see a light silver dry brush on there. Just found you're channel today you've got a new sub! 😊
Check out the full tools & Materials list plus build photos at punishedprops.com/2019/04/22/wraith-heirloom-dagger/
what exactly does the uv lights do to the prop?
@@SkitZHitZ Peopoly Moai is a Laser SLS printer. The resin used will cure when it is hit with a certain wavelength of light. Once you've washed off all the excess resin from the printed prop you need to properly cure it using UV light. This can be done in sunlight as well but most of us end up using a UV chamber of some sort to do it quickly / efficiently.
A destiny dagger or a mask of some sort
@@SkitZHitZ it cures the resin. when the uv laser cures the resin to make the part/prop it is still in the bath of resin and some will stick to the surface. which is why you clean it. The resin that was cured by the laser however is in a "green" state, and it isn't fully cured yet. The uv light finishes the curing.
@@diamondruststreams Slight clarification, it's an SLA printer. SLS is selective laser sintering, I.E. the one with the white nylon powder.
The light showing the purple, though the blue pearlessence, made it feel like the dagger was alive. Like a Morganti blade.
Christopher Maschek small mistake made here, it’s not a dagger, it’s a throwing knife. See how it doesn’t have a hand guard, is perforated, and has a handle loop? That means it’s most likely a throwing knife.
SAVAGE TUNER cool
@@savagetuner2404 It's a kunai. A throwing knife indeed :)
Like is you agree that they should try and make bloodhound’s axe!
Thanks for letting us know you're interested in that build! We have our current schedule worked out, but there could be room for this kind of video in future plans.
I see me chasing my bully to the end of the world with an axe, just like in the game (i dont have a bully btw)
And lifeline’s shock sticks
@@punishedprops And Lifeline heirloom too!!
Yes please that would be so cool to see.
Absolutely the most useful, helpful, friendly and delightful 3D Printing, Mold Making & Casting Video Tutorial EVER. @Punished Props Academy Forever! Thank you.
I used to want a Form 2. NOT ANYMORE
Bill also think about manually adding your own supports. You could move them to flat surfaces and not on those edges that may be hard to sand away or on any place that has a detailed textured surface. 5 more minutes in the slicer could save you 20+ minutes of finishing work.
Holy crap, that glove with the noisemakers HAHAHA!
Him and Harrison are doing a one up challenge on social media with that earlier. It's entertaining to say the least
LOL Iknowright!? That glove + party horns made my day.
@@jackkuehneman9300 Happen to have a link? I can't seem to find it.
@@PlanetAlexanderProjects Check out @chinbeard’s Tweet: twitter.com/chinbeard/status/1113874977042857989?s=09
Looking for me, here I am
I am not sure if the matter hackers resin is less brittle than the resin from form labs, but I have found that using a higher grit sandpaper - such as starting at 600 or 800 - reduces clean up time. The material sands off very easily and already has a fairly smooth finish.
One more reason to make a mold is that many conventions do not allow a rigid blade, and you can cast your items is flexible rubber or foam. Also, you can go the other way, as you have done in the past, and cast the part out of a low melt metal like pewter, or make a wax piece for a lost wax process.
Also, I am very impressed with how well your mold came out. A split mold with a cut through is scarier that I would usually attempt, and you cut it so that it had minimal clean up. Please take a bow for that!
I would print the Eye of Agamotto from Doctor Strange. All those little teeny tiny runes on almost the entire surface would be amazing to see printed with this printer...
I wish I had the funds...goshdang!
That's a great idea! And I've already got some green resin.
"I may not even weather this!"... Seconds later
"It's too clean"
I expect nothing less
It looked SO GOOD just right out of the printer!
I know I'm late to the party on this one, and I'm certain others have mentioned this, but that "circle with an X in it" yeah that's supposed to be another, larger, screw.... This was amazing, I've just recently started watching your videos, and they're amazing
mmm . . . 3D printing, mold making, and pretty powders!!! Loved it!
Thanks guys!
Don't often watch big DIY vids like this, but this turned out so stunning, and seeing 3d print tech put to good use makes me really happy.
9:40 Check out using a fiberglass auto detailing pen for these trickier spots where sand paper may be too large
That Time-lapse of the print felt like a glimpse into the future, so neat. One day it will go that fast. Fascinating. Great build love the purple!
Isn't it amazing to watch?
I love those little emery boards. I used them on leather too. I pick them up at beauty supply and they go up to a super fine grit.
The detail off the Moai is amazing, and that build volume is enviable!
If you're going to do a bunch of SLA printing and don't fancy molding every piece, it might be worth checking out some less brittle resins. Siraya blu is a really solid engineering resin. I also know a few people that mix Monocure Flex with other resins to make them less brittle but I haven't tried that myself.
A Faberge Egg including the iconic carriage would be a real test of the detail ability of the printer. It would probably need to be printed in 2 parts. But I think it would give the printer a real workout
Wraith is my favorite legend and this prop does the dagger in the game justice in every aspect. Amazing print, amazing cast, amazing everything.
Thank you so much, I'm so glad you enjoyed the video!
The rubber glove noise makers on the pressure pot amused me greatly lol
The way the light shines through that purple resin is the best! I dig it
Isn't it delightful?
5:00 Hmmmm... I was thinking about printing weapons... If i had the cash... But I'll find other ways of making it.
22:59 "Toasty!"
I was avoiding this video thinking I was going to come back to it but now I'm glad I did! It's resin based too!
The amount of work and time put into this is crazy . Your a great crafts men and thank u for not having 5 minute videos and showing everything. Everyone should be thanking u for ur work
*"There's a thin line between life and death, you'll find me there"*
Apex fanboy
"There's something wrong with your head if you fight me."
Blink and you'll miss me
Follow my path to win
Pee in a pan
I enjoyed this video on so many levels, and the bit where you held the finished dagger up to the light was a joy. Great video!!
Awesome video guys!
Thanks so much!
The way that the light hits the edge makes the dagger look so nice.
That blue/purple stuff looks great :)
I clearly have an issue, at 39:04 I told myself, "That looks like a screw from a blaster like an older N-strike blaster" and you immediately confirm my absolutely ridiculous hunch. Newer N-strike Elite blasters and Rebelle and stuff normally use those weird cylinder-head screws. If I had to guess the blaster I'm going with Longshot.
28:43 You're not going to start having to add a Modern Rogue style injury counter, are you? ;)
Excellent video, and very comprehensive. Thank you.
That 45 minutes went way too quick, so it certainly is true that time flies when you are having fun. Awesome build bill and I definitely had to agree with Britt about adding more powder to the resin. Looks awesome you guys
Thanks so much! We're so glad you had a good time!
38:41 ”Little bit of semen here” 😂
I think he was trying to say "seam in"
so... almost a year late commenting. but...
MAN! the confidence to be talking to camera and pouring silicone at the same time!
Bravo
The end product looks amzing! Thanks for taking the time to create, film and share :)
Thanks for taking the time to watch our content!
That printer would easily make Malfeasance from Destiny 2!
one thing i thought about for the vent is to put something like a pvc dowel next to the piece for the mold so you have a nice big vent right out the gate and then trim the little channels. really enjoy these videos and thanks for continuing to make them
That's a great option! So glad you enjoyed the video!
should get some god hands for support nub removal or any of the pro gundam builder snippers, will make it so it doesn't leave marks
Snipers, huh? Are those to take out the model, or the hobbyist?
ChozoSR388 there won’t be any printing nubs if you and your shop were annihalited by an energy sniper
Looks awesome! That iridescent purple was definitely a nice touch. One idea I thought would be cool to make would be a Jedi or Sith holocron, especially the Jedi holocron since it has some moving parts
That would be NEAT!
Something you could do as a 'one step further' since the purple resin was translucent - could drill out the large screw head you painted gold and glue in a coin-battery powered LED to make the whole thing glow from inside.
@15:20 "I did some math?" Eye raising intensifies!
Great video! The UV lamps "warm, glowing, warming glow"... that's been in my head the whole time!
Age restriction at about and around 27:30
A dirty mind is a joy forever :)
I lost it at 30:09 hahahha
Really
After watching countless hours of these videos I was inspired to finally make my own prop gun which actually turned out pretty awesome and I think this place in this channel prayer helping make that an awesome reality I don't know if you're going to see this but either way I want a thank you to be somewhere on your Channel
Nice work. I made a wooden heirloom knife on my channel although I'm no where near as skilled
I've done most of my moulds with 14NV and it's been amazing. Super durable and is pretty good at not leaving bubbles but you do get some if you're not careful.
Try and make a wearable shoe (I think adidas made a shoe in the same sort of way it’s called 4d future craft)
They have a proprietary resin for that. We covered that product in my CE course at MIT. Really cool things in the world of 3d printing these days.
This printers seem pretty cool. The post printing process you showed is about the same as what I use for printing dentures and dental models on the Carbon at work, except the Carbon would have probably printed it a heck of a lot faster. That thing is crazy fast and the prints look so smooth! I wish I could use it for personal stuff once in a while.
Make a mozambique next
Leo Lizard i want him to make a wingman that opens how it does when inspected
Cool!
Yeah, I would use that as a positive to make the negative for molds and then redo this knife in aluminum. Hopefully the mold catches the fine details, but if they are a little weak just do a little dremel work and get those in there, hammer harden the edge, make sure it is sharp and bingo you have a working knife. Afterwards you can annodize it if you want and have it those different colors. If you can make a permanent negative, or if you are willing to make a lot of sand molds, then you can make a bunch of them to have on a bandolier for a cosplay of a rogue.
43:43 I want a baby from that shiny thing 👀
the bits you trim off of the mold make really good zombie-guts if you ever have a zombie cosplay
Thor's hammer would be a great detailed print
Gorgeous!! That pearlescent effect and color...
Ide like to print a T -800 endoskeleton skull
Awesome build! mold making is so fascinating!
The deamon dagger from Netflix show Lucifer
Bill, I know a lot of people who are using resin printers for making miniatures have started adding some flex resin to their standard printing resin to add some durability and reduce the brittleness of their prints.
I like how it says OUIETO instead of QUIETO
WELP
That came out ridiculously good! Well done!
if anyone can make me 2 of those perfectly i will legit pay for them
Wow! That is a beautiful dagger! I love watching you guys.
My favorite way to start the week is by listening to Bill describe what he's doing.
Awwww
I'm not really into tech, so I've never seen something 3D printed like that. What the hell, that was awesome!
Nice video!! You should try to print a battering from Batman beyond. Bill when you use the pressure pot it will take longer for it to cure due to the solvent can off-gas out anywhere cuz it's under pressure so it stays softer longer. This happens to a lot of urethane and alkaline paints in the Northwest due to temperature and humidity.
I find for larger parts that a nail brush works well to clean it. Just a little faster than the toothbrush. I would also work on picking support locations that are on flat surfaces and away from detail as it makes it much easier to sand.
Fantastic project! Appreciate the tips on a one piece mold. I too often make two part molds, when carefully cut one-piece would be much quicker after seeing this!
Fantastic video! Beautiful execution of the build, and SUPER educational! Thanks friends!
I'm really impressed with your ability to speak to the camera while pouring. It'd be all over my feet! Could you make the sprue/support as a component, with a corresponding hole in the dagger, and print it at the same time? How much would the 12-inch print cost a member of the public? How much is the materials cost of the mould and the casting? Thanks
Seeing how that colored resin turned out, I'd love to see a Halo Energy Sword made with it.
As always, interesting video and enjoyed the commentary as to the reasons behind each step.
ive seen a technique where you use the moai (or a formlabs) to print the actual mold, basically a negative of your prop with sprue and vent holes as well as some screw threads then inject the resin in (after spraying some mold release) with a baster... looked pretty cool.. ever tried it ? thought it may be fun since you had the moai
This is amazing! The dagger came out sooo good!😍
Great video as always. Love you all and always manage to learn something even when I think there's nothing left. In this case, it was the mold cutting knife. Fantastic idea. Thanks.
Maybe I can give some of that knowledge dropping back.
Literally, the easiest way to harden steel is to get it hot then dip it in cool (not cold, slightly cooler than room temp) water. It's probably still hot enough after you are done bending it, but maybe one more quick lick with the torch then in a cup of water and you're good.
Hope it helps!
Thanks again for the awesome videos!!
We're so glad we can help you keep learning!
For the tiny imperfections, you could also just use CA Glue to fill those in. Simple, dries quickly, and sands very well.
I love SLA prints. They sand so smoothly.
if you plan to print it again
maybe print it in two halfs
and then glue them together
so you can sand the inside just flat and you dont loose the fine printing details
Quick tip, you can cut your sanding stick to a smaller size with metal shears.
The pressure pot rubber gloves were a glorious and hilarious surprise 😂😂
Outstanding! You have outdone yourself my man!
Thanks very much!
Considering the material, a gunpla modeling trick is removing the nubs with an exacto knife. I have always loved these printers. Unfortunately the price and cost of build material has always shy'd me away cheers keep up the amazing vids
More clean weapon hv never seen
So hard not to weather more!
Rlly good work
It's amazing
When Bill Doran makes a Zoidberg reference in the middle of a video I don't feel like as much of a 50 year old nerd. Thanks Bill!
I swear it’s always bill. But that’s a good thing cause he’s cool!
not a prop but i'd print housings for all sorts of things, i recon the dimensional accuracy aswell as the surface finish are really tempting to do like a handheld arcade/retro gaming device with raspi zero internals
Totally did not know SLA prints were so brittle. I've been trying to do tiny Captain America shields for a friend who does toy photography, and my Prusa simply can't get that level of detail. Plus the support side is so gnarly. Gotta save up for an SLA printer!
You can quench the blade after heating so that it tempers instead of annealing so that it doesn't stay bendable.
As a apex fan and a wraith main I love this I might have to get one for myself
unasked for 2C worth
not got a SLA printer, but from my education from the University of youtube its apparently easer to remove all the supports (clean up the contact points) before UV curing, it will prevent the 'divit' resulting from breaking a hardened resin
I would print a broche or pendant. Like the Leaf of Lothlorien without the green (clear green resin that). Or Arwen's Evenstar. Or the Phantomhive logo broche. Something with plenty of detail, really small and hard for normal printer
Oh that's a fantastic idea!
Any steampunk prop that is not covered in elaborate engraving is a missed opportunity. That would be a great idea for high-precision printing.
Hi Bill! first my quilifications, I have had a form 1 and form 2 for the past 5 years, and have grown hundreds of SLA prints, and cleaned them up, some advice.
1. Don't put supports on detail parts, or in low areas if possible, for this dagger, I would have added an extra bit on the knife edge and put the supports there and on some high points on the side, to support it from side to side, if you do that, there will be no clean up in the low areas. You can orient it any way you want, and you don't have to accept the support sudgestions that the program does.. cull as many supports as you can.
2. Seen you use putty to fill in the divots of the supports, advice is, use the UV resin as a filler, and shoot a UV lazer on the spot, or throw it in the UV oven, or in the sun for abit, and just sand away!.
3. use citedel Corax white paint.. sticks quite well to the resin.
Good luck on future prints!
I would love to see an attempt to embed some blue LEDs or EL wire in that dagger while casting it in translucent resin.
Oh that would be very cool
Crazy good looking
I would’ve just 3D printed the kunai, painted it, and called it a day. It’s crazy how much time, detail, and effort goes into these props
And my favorite thing is, either method is great! There's no "right" way with cosplay and it's awesome.
Every time when he makes a print and uses supports it reminds me of those roller coaster support beams that they use
If u guys ever are gonna do another apex heirloom which I’d love to watch because I’m currently in the process to gather the materials in order to make this beautiful prop would be bloodhounds raven claw heirloom or octane butterfly knife heirloom. Either way I’m glad u guys made this vid cause it inspired me to actually start making something cool such as this 👍👍👍
Fantatsic!! Thanks for letting us know some builds you're interested in
I dont care how many times its been said. The detail is incredible!
Thanks very much!
I love SLA printers. You should try using clear resin it looks so good and would be great for lights!!!
Other cool things are the gears and moving parts you can make. I highly recommend trying that.
On thing I've always want to try but haven't had the chance to is adding glow powder to the resin. You'd have to be careful with the amount to get an even glow and make sure it cures properly but if it works it would be epic!
All great suggestions!
you guys should get in touch with Alec Steele here in the tubes... to get that dagger casted in bronze!!!
Friggin gorgeous end result. Super cool watching your process! Careful waving that xacto blade around! Would. Have loved to see a light silver dry brush on there. Just found you're channel today you've got a new sub! 😊
Welcome aboard!
Absolutely awesome tutorial Bill! Love the work your doing. Could you show how resin can be used for repair and filler in a future resin print please?