The video might complicate things by splitting the process into separate bottles, but here's a clear summary of what you need to do: 1. Pour 1250 ml of distilled water into a 1.5-liter bottle, then add 250 ml of EK-CryoFuel Loop Cleaner to reach a total of 1500 ml. 2. Use a tester to check for leaks in the system and then fill the system with the mixture. 3. Allow the mixture to circulate for 15 minutes and refill the system if the level has dropped. 4. Let the EK-CryoFuel Loop Cleaner and distilled water mixture circulate for approximately 8 hours. 5. Drain the EK-CryoFuel Loop Cleaner and distilled water mixture. 6. In a 3-liter bottle, pour 2759 ml of distilled water and then add 250 ml of EK-CryoFuel Superflush to make a total of 3000 ml of mixture. 7. Fill the system with 1500 ml of the EK-CryoFuel Superflush and distilled water mixture and let it circulate for 15 to 20 minutes. If excessive foam occurs, reduce the pump speed. 8. Drain the EK-CryoFuel Superflush and distilled water mixture. 9. Refill the system with the remaining 1500 ml of EK-CryoFuel Superflush and distilled water and let it circulate for 24 hours. 10. After 24 hours, drain the mixture and proceed to refill the system with your preferred coolant. It will be ready to use!
Love these products, bought them for my first custom loop i completed this week. But honestly, the prep time is too long. two full days of flushing is simply annoying.
Nah. I rather let the cleaner do its job and not rush it. You can still use your computer, but you can’t game on it. Since I work during the day, I’ll let the system run while I’m away. I plan to do 24 hours due to my schedule. Then superflush for 15min then 24 hours. 2 days ain’t so bad :)
I see you flushed a whole system here as im planning to do with my superflush and loop cleaner soon. My concern is if youre flushing the loop same as the liquid rotating through the system already anyway. So yes the flush will pick up and loosen bits in the loop that the coolant might not have... but they will simply end up flowing through til they get stuck in my CPU block where the fins are wouldnt they? As a result wether i flush or not i will have to take apart the whole board and monoblock to clean the fins because of my setup. So is this really worth flushing the whole system or maybe say the system minus the CPU block so as not to catch the bits and save me doing a teardown? Thoughts please if anyone sees what im getting at
Hello, how do i reduce the pump speed?, and I know this is a dumb question but this is my first time and nervous and wanna make sure i do it right, when it says to keep it running the pump running it just means to leave the pc on right?
Isn't it bad to blow into the loop to empty it due to bacteria? New to watercooling and about to flush my loop for the first time maintenance, so this timing is impeccable lol.
The biocide in the coolant should prevent any growth from that bacteria, but you're right, if you can drain the loop without blowing in it, that would be even better.
Yes, that is bad but the EK guy then uses EK SuperFlush so supposedly that help clean everything up. Though, why he didn't show that himself using the EK Leak Tester for that is beyond me. The EK Leak Tester or similar leak testers should be capable of light weight flow creation for assisting with the loop draining process.
Yeah but he blew into the loop to push the SuperFlush out, just like he did with the original coolant, and the cleaning solution mixture. Though, I agree the cryofuel should kill any mouth bacteria that get in there. It's too bad the cryofuel can't just be 30% alcohol and 70% anti-freeze.
No it's fine. People that are into water cooling too much are weirdos. It won't do anything I promise especially if you change the coolant out yearly. Don't listen to these idiots 😂
What happen to the third bottle? Did he add it together on the 24 hour flush? How much distilled water is added to each bottle of the cleaner. They appear to have two different amounts
The video might complicate things by splitting the process into separate bottles, but here's a clear summary of what you need to do: 1. Pour 1250 ml of distilled water into a 1.5-liter bottle, then add 250 ml of EK-CryoFuel Loop Cleaner to reach a total of 1500 ml. 2. Use a tester to check for leaks in the system and then fill the system with the mixture. 3. Allow the mixture to circulate for 15 minutes and refill the system if the level has dropped. 4. Let the EK-CryoFuel Loop Cleaner and distilled water mixture circulate for approximately 8 hours. 5. Drain the EK-CryoFuel Loop Cleaner and distilled water mixture. 6. In a 3-liter bottle, pour 2759 ml of distilled water and then add 250 ml of EK-CryoFuel Superflush to make a total of 3000 ml of mixture. 7. Fill the system with 1500 ml of the EK-CryoFuel Superflush and distilled water mixture and let it circulate for 15 to 20 minutes. If excessive foam occurs, reduce the pump speed. 8. Drain the EK-CryoFuel Superflush and distilled water mixture. 9. Refill the system with the remaining 1500 ml of EK-CryoFuel Superflush and distilled water and let it circulate for 24 hours. 10. After 24 hours, drain the mixture and proceed to refill the system with your preferred coolant. It will be ready to use!
I used the cleaner/flush concentrate 2 times already and my cleaner mix turned into a milky looking fluid. Looking in this video I see a clear liquid. Does anyone know anything about this?
I hope EKWB is continuing to develop preventative solutions for this necessity. I had clear cryofuel in my loop, and as the level dropped every so slightly over a few months, a white precipitate built up where the coolant level used to be, at the very top. I feel like this is preventable? To be clear, I bought a pre-built gaming rig from them, so... it wasn't me who screwed something up. A quick google search shows many, many customers reporting the same thing- significant precipitate buildup. I look at it like this- you would never flush your car's radiator once a year- that's overkill. So why do we have to do it here? That brings up another question- why can't we use car anti-freeze? lol. I just feel like the cryofuel should be designed so that you don't have to clean the loop once a year with 2 separate products. Maybe I'm naive, but I just have the sense that there's a solution to this, whether it be only one type of cleaning/flush product, and/or not having to clean the loop once a year.
I used the EKWB EK-CRYOFUEL SOLID AZURE BLUE and now the loop is always clogging exspecially the CPU Block, and the flow is going down from day to day, till i take the CPU Block out and clean it, and every time i find some interesting residuals in it. Do i get the Pastel out of the loop using this superflush & loop Cleaner?
That can happen with solid coolants as they break down over time and the larger particles can obstruct the coolant flow. You want to physically remove them from the loop. The best way to do that is to disassemble the block and thoroughly clean the coldplate using a toothbrush and some warm soapy water. You can watch the video on how to clean our water blocks here: ua-cam.com/video/0bwUNcJhhwE/v-deo.html
In the manual you say the loope cleaner is for flushing the rads, but in this video it sounds like you should use the superflush for flushing the rads?
If I am not using loop cleaner, but have new EK rads do I flush them with distilled water before filling or not? It’s a bit confusing as some of your videos say don’t do this but the cryofuel says do do this. If I flush with distilled will it affect the balance of the mystic fog? Thanks
i'm very new to the whole water loop system, it's about time for mine to be flushed and changed but i have no idea where to even begin, if anyone here has any videos or could explain in detail how to do so i would really appreciate it, i don't know what to flush it with or even how to run the pump by it's self i just know i need to do so, then refill with coolant. it's the first one i've ever owned so bare with me
I just flushed 2 new ek radiators before installing using an aquarium pump and distilled water, filtered through a coffee filter. Got some green small particles, very small and very little quantity. You guys did a good job on those radiators.
Had the opposite experience and flushed out around 6 rads, 2x360, 2x480 and 2x 560, all XM. Went through so much distilled water. I don't know if there were issues with the first batches, but they were painful to clean. It was like a nation's worth of dandruff in there.
@@sargeyrose8253 Jesus, what the heck are you cooling? A nuclear reactor? I flushed the new quantum surface slim 360 and one performance 280 in my Y60 dark hero build, cooling a 5950x quantum vector cpu and a strix 4090 alphacool block. Surely you have a dual cpu build?
@@adamfogel837 I think you may have gotten luckier than me; I'm pretty sure I used at least 4 months of showers for mine. Although it depended on the thickness, the thicker ones were more of a pain than the thinner ones. Still, even their radiator cleaning stuff did not help. I might genuinely film myself next time.
I personally would never use respiratory air for draining the system, like shown in this video. By doing so one can bring back bacterium back to the system.
You can’t just use distilled water. You need to add biocides/growth inhibitors if you want to run distilled and not something like a premix. Idk how you didn’t come across this in your research before you did a custom loop but yeah, pretty standard tbh
If I got a brand new complete set of water cooling gear from EK (3x 420mm radiators, distribution block and pump, pipes, CPU block, GPU block and fittings ALL from you) would I still need to #pre-wash" the system to remove resins, etc that the manufacturer failed to remove? I understand about wasing oit once a year, but brand new unused EK parts? Surely EK is premium enough to guarantee all their brand new parts are pre-washed and ready to use for the first time?
@Sargey Rose but then, surely, it should be down to the manufacturer to be responsible for rinsing out the parts they make? These parts are very expensive to buy for what they are & the relatively small amounts of materials used to make them. So for the premium prices, with cheaper alternatives to EK, shouldn't EK parts at least be sold pre-washed and ready to use?
@@TimLongson Would love it if that was the case. But no, kind of applies to all of the radiators you buy on the market. You always want to do a clean beforehand. Just standard practice.
Seems like it will be hard on the pump and the rest of the componets to run for 24 hours straight. I thought about running power to the pump only during this period, but it's gonna run full blast without the bios. Did anybody figure out a better way to do this?
@@TheGirthGoblin I did something crazy, but it worked. My pump is 12v, I think most of them are. I took an old 4 pin power plug and spliced a 12v power supply I had laying around into one end, plugged the other right in. The power supply was just a plug-in black cube type of something random I had. Make sure and read the label to check for 12v, at least an amp or 2.
Thanks to EK for the quick response to my inquiries..I wanted help replacing the heat pads for the Asus ROG Maximus Z690 Extreme Glacial motherboard and the Quantum Vector² Strix RTX 3090 graphics card. There was a quick response and immediate help and support. Thank you all❤❤🎉🎉
I will be building a new PC within the next year and was thinking of a water cool kit from EK. I am learning that it takes a lot of work and time to setup and maintain. Am I missing something or does this process take a couple of days? I am questioning if an custom loop is the way to go. Is the temperature reduction over an AIO that much?
Search the web for a water cooling pressure leak tester. It tests the loop to see if it’s airtight. Corsair makes one that’s pricey, but there are cheaper options. I went cheap and kinda regretting it tbh haha
the pump thing he held in his hand is an EK product. You literally just pump in air up to a certain pressure and wait like 15 mins and see if it holds that pressure. If it holds air it will hold liquid
Be careful, I used superflush on a bran new full ekwb loop. It caused a powder residue to form on all my blocks and tubes and distro. Literally everything has to be torn down and cleaned. Wish I would have just used distilled water and coolant.
Can you guys comment on the warning for aluminum parts in the manual? Are these products still safe to use? I have an asus z690 formula MB and I hear rumors that the vram heatsink might be aluminum, so im holding off on using this for now.
The concern about aluminum is only for using parts or fittings that use aluminum. EK's cleaning and flush solutions are fine to use in an aluminum loop. How do I know? I contacted their tech support because I'm re-doing/upgrading my loop on the pre-built computer I bought from them. It's the mixing of metals that you need to be careful about.
@juliangarcia6073 that's what I did. Asus wanted me to send the whole MB back but I heard horror stories about their RMA process. Instead I had them send me the vrm heatsink replacement, and I rebuilt the whole system myself. Everything seems ok except I have brownish red gunk gathering around all of my orings. I was worried that it was bacteria, but it showed up within hours of filling the system, far to quick for bacteria. When I rebuilt I took every component out, broke down all plexi ek parts, connectors, oring, everything and soaked them in distilled water, then scrubbed them with dish soap, then rinsed with distilled again. I then ran the ek loop flush and clean twice before filling with ek cryofule. There is no way, even if I had bacteria, that it could grow that fast in these chemicals. I decided to wait and see, and as I expected it has not gotten worse. So I think what I'm seeing is oring grease leeching out of the orings. I've heard EK is notorious for the nasty grease they put on their orings. It doesn't matter in my system because I have so much rgb that you can't really notice the brown grease unless I set the rgb color to white.
@@xGoody05 You can also burn a hundred dollar bill... Doesn't mean it's smart to do. Expanding an AIO is not only more work than it's worth it's also not cost effective at all. At that rate just get a better AIO to suit your needs or build yourself a loop. I mean you can do whatever you want it's just not worth the time, money or effort.
I use a special paint brush oil free compressor at 1 bar to blow out the system, this makes that the loop has a constant stream of air, which is also dry. Because I build a lot of custom loops and do maintenance on those systems, it's also handy for blowing out dust. Those clean products are great, I use them too. In my own system, I do the cleaning every 6 months with full color fluids, and with the transparent colored fluids every year. I noticed with the "mist" fluids, the chance of clogging is much more happening than with the transparent colored. In short, I will start to build a fully ARGB custom loop, all with EK products. Except the UV LED strips, these I bought in a special modding shop. And these works great. Other strips give blue color, and don't get the UV out.
Is it okay if a little bit of EK-Superflush remains in the system after draining and then filling up the system with EK-Cryofuel? Some build configurations may make it difficult to completely drain all of the EK-Superflush.
@@benwhite8503 no you're not supposed to do that. the entire point of superflush is that it is a better flushing solution than plain distilled water. using distilled water will revert any effects from superflush. you just leave the leftover superflush in the loop after draining and let it mix with your coolant.
EK, you make the coolest products out there!❤🔥🔥 But please, please please please.... a Monoblock for the ASUS ROG CROSSHAIR X670E Extreme would be sooooo freaking awesome!🙏
Nice video... But you need to use proper protective gear when managing the concentrate! And you used your mouth to blow air! Isn't it dangerous to accidentally breathe in vapor from this thing that you can't even dump it down the drain?
Thanks for the info. IMHO, this cleaning of manufacturing process residues should be done by the manufacturer before packaging: when we buy something new, we expect to be able to use it out of the box, especially when considering the high price of water loop elements. It's as if you were adding a tax of CAD $70.00 (ship. inc.) for buying your water loop components, and that's despicable: two bottles to buy, one for cleaning the loop, and another for cleaning the cleaner (for 250ml)... Come on guys, if you oblige us to do what you should do, at the very least make this affordable for what it is and stop trying to milk down your customers! Jesus...
I love how ek became a bigger company bc they sold good stuff and had good customer support, now for the past couple years there products are way over priced and are poorly made.
I've Built 6 or 7 custom water loops and I never did this. Just flush your system for an hour with some distilled water, then add the coolant of your choice. Make sure you replace your coolant once a year and never use additives + distilled water in ek loops unless you like yellow stains.
@@Kyezie131 Just stick with ekwb products and you will be fine. It's not the distilled water but the 3rd party additives you add to the water that can cause flaking and staining.
@@pccanvas Ohh okay gotcha. Because I was literally going to use EK concentrate and of course mix it with distilled water. First time building a loop so I was confused
@@Kyezie131 yes that is fine. Just replace the fluid once a year and you should be good. Jay's two cents has some great videos if you want to learn more.
@@Kyezie131 hmmm follow the manufacturer recommended treatment or a random internet expert (such an expert they are watching a video on how to flush a system), tough call this.
I like EH parts but you are Ridiculous trying to sell people on all these extra chemicals. I bet if you tried really hard you could turn those 4 bottles into 8 bottles of different products. Maybe we need a cleaner for the outside of the shipping Box and then another cleaner for the outside of the cooler and then a different cleaner for the plastic parts and then another cleaner for the painted parts and then a different cleaner for the O rings And then a different cleaner for where the plastic parts meet the metal parts and then another cleaner for after it's all clean And then another cleaner for before you clean it but after it's all clean but before you clean it again
Depending on your set up you only need one cleaner and one flush or just the flush if you have no major build ups. One is meant to clean out the system and help remove build up that happens when using colored liquid and just over time and the other meant to flush the system to remove the cleaning solution and prep for the new coolant
@@colton9841 consumer society. if u want long change periods use distilled water and some pharmacy alcohol (the ~90% one), and make a 5% mixture. that'll last. no fancy colours tho!
I bought the blue colored liquid. Someone told me the color ones stain your block and may cause blockage later and bad performance issues. Is that true or does ek make these liquids so that it doesn't do that. Is clear liquid the better option.
So basically, this is a 2 day process. Can you better explain why you can't game on the machine? You have fluid in the system. I hear that heat in the loop helps break up stubborn gunk.
This video should have been produced with safety in mind, the chemicals in this product are not something you want to get into contact with skin, the bottle of the superflush says "suspected of damaging the unborn child". I'm not saying you should not use this product but I would at least expect a more professional approach to safety, starting with the basics. Wearing gloves to avoid skin contact, proper eye safety goggles, some form of warning about the hazardous nature of the product, and not blowing into a tube with your mouth. I think as a reputable brand you have a social responsibility to ensure the safety of your users and the lack of basic safety precautions in this video is dissappointing. You can do better than this.
The video might complicate things by splitting the process into separate bottles, but here's a clear summary of what you need to do:
1. Pour 1250 ml of distilled water into a 1.5-liter bottle, then add 250 ml of EK-CryoFuel Loop Cleaner to reach a total of 1500 ml.
2. Use a tester to check for leaks in the system and then fill the system with the mixture.
3. Allow the mixture to circulate for 15 minutes and refill the system if the level has dropped.
4. Let the EK-CryoFuel Loop Cleaner and distilled water mixture circulate for approximately 8 hours.
5. Drain the EK-CryoFuel Loop Cleaner and distilled water mixture.
6. In a 3-liter bottle, pour 2759 ml of distilled water and then add 250 ml of EK-CryoFuel Superflush to make a total of 3000 ml of mixture.
7. Fill the system with 1500 ml of the EK-CryoFuel Superflush and distilled water mixture and let it circulate for 15 to 20 minutes. If excessive foam occurs, reduce the pump speed.
8. Drain the EK-CryoFuel Superflush and distilled water mixture.
9. Refill the system with the remaining 1500 ml of EK-CryoFuel Superflush and distilled water and let it circulate for 24 hours.
10. After 24 hours, drain the mixture and proceed to refill the system with your preferred coolant. It will be ready to use!
Love these products, bought them for my first custom loop i completed this week. But honestly, the prep time is too long. two full days of flushing is simply annoying.
Nah. I rather let the cleaner do its job and not rush it. You can still use your computer, but you can’t game on it. Since I work during the day, I’ll let the system run while I’m away. I plan to do 24 hours due to my schedule. Then superflush for 15min then 24 hours. 2 days ain’t so bad :)
The real life pains of downtime 😢
I see you flushed a whole system here as im planning to do with my superflush and loop cleaner soon. My concern is if youre flushing the loop same as the liquid rotating through the system already anyway. So yes the flush will pick up and loosen bits in the loop that the coolant might not have... but they will simply end up flowing through til they get stuck in my CPU block where the fins are wouldnt they? As a result wether i flush or not i will have to take apart the whole board and monoblock to clean the fins because of my setup. So is this really worth flushing the whole system or maybe say the system minus the CPU block so as not to catch the bits and save me doing a teardown?
Thoughts please if anyone sees what im getting at
Hello, how do i reduce the pump speed?, and I know this is a dumb question but this is my first time and nervous and wanna make sure i do it right, when it says to keep it running the pump running it just means to leave the pc on right?
Does this cleaning system help get rid of any bacteria that might have already started growing in your radiators?
Isn't it bad to blow into the loop to empty it due to bacteria? New to watercooling and about to flush my loop for the first time maintenance, so this timing is impeccable lol.
The biocide in the coolant should prevent any growth from that bacteria, but you're right, if you can drain the loop without blowing in it, that would be even better.
Yes, that is bad but the EK guy then uses EK SuperFlush so supposedly that help clean everything up. Though, why he didn't show that himself using the EK Leak Tester for that is beyond me. The EK Leak Tester or similar leak testers should be capable of light weight flow creation for assisting with the loop draining process.
Yeah but he blew into the loop to push the SuperFlush out, just like he did with the original coolant, and the cleaning solution mixture. Though, I agree the cryofuel should kill any mouth bacteria that get in there. It's too bad the cryofuel can't just be 30% alcohol and 70% anti-freeze.
No it's fine. People that are into water cooling too much are weirdos. It won't do anything I promise especially if you change the coolant out yearly. Don't listen to these idiots 😂
I had to use a really small water pump & that electric air duster to flush everything out the system before coolant. Was the hardest part.
After reading your comment, I think a shop vac might be useful.
What's the formula for making the coolant?
What happen to the third bottle? Did he add it together on the 24 hour flush?
How much distilled water is added to each bottle of the cleaner. They appear to have two different amounts
The video might complicate things by splitting the process into separate bottles, but here's a clear summary of what you need to do:
1. Pour 1250 ml of distilled water into a 1.5-liter bottle, then add 250 ml of EK-CryoFuel Loop Cleaner to reach a total of 1500 ml.
2. Use a tester to check for leaks in the system and then fill the system with the mixture.
3. Allow the mixture to circulate for 15 minutes and refill the system if the level has dropped.
4. Let the EK-CryoFuel Loop Cleaner and distilled water mixture circulate for approximately 8 hours.
5. Drain the EK-CryoFuel Loop Cleaner and distilled water mixture.
6. In a 3-liter bottle, pour 2759 ml of distilled water and then add 250 ml of EK-CryoFuel Superflush to make a total of 3000 ml of mixture.
7. Fill the system with 1500 ml of the EK-CryoFuel Superflush and distilled water mixture and let it circulate for 15 to 20 minutes. If excessive foam occurs, reduce the pump speed.
8. Drain the EK-CryoFuel Superflush and distilled water mixture.
9. Refill the system with the remaining 1500 ml of EK-CryoFuel Superflush and distilled water and let it circulate for 24 hours.
10. After 24 hours, drain the mixture and proceed to refill the system with your preferred coolant. It will be ready to use!
I used the cleaner/flush concentrate 2 times already and my cleaner mix turned into a milky looking fluid. Looking in this video I see a clear liquid. Does anyone know anything about this?
Ek pls make asus gx601 helios and gr701 hyperon destro plate
Hello there, is there a difference in the drain frequency if we use colored coolant and transparent coolant ? Thank you very much
Yes color coolant typically need to be changed more frequently
I hope EKWB is continuing to develop preventative solutions for this necessity. I had clear cryofuel in my loop, and as the level dropped every so slightly over a few months, a white precipitate built up where the coolant level used to be, at the very top. I feel like this is preventable? To be clear, I bought a pre-built gaming rig from them, so... it wasn't me who screwed something up. A quick google search shows many, many customers reporting the same thing- significant precipitate buildup.
I look at it like this- you would never flush your car's radiator once a year- that's overkill. So why do we have to do it here? That brings up another question- why can't we use car anti-freeze? lol.
I just feel like the cryofuel should be designed so that you don't have to clean the loop once a year with 2 separate products. Maybe I'm naive, but I just have the sense that there's a solution to this, whether it be only one type of cleaning/flush product, and/or not having to clean the loop once a year.
I used the EKWB EK-CRYOFUEL SOLID AZURE BLUE and now the loop is always clogging exspecially the CPU Block, and the flow is going down from day to day, till i take the CPU Block out and clean it, and every time i find some interesting residuals in it. Do i get the Pastel out of the loop using this superflush & loop Cleaner?
That can happen with solid coolants as they break down over time and the larger particles can obstruct the coolant flow. You want to physically remove them from the loop. The best way to do that is to disassemble the block and thoroughly clean the coldplate using a toothbrush and some warm soapy water. You can watch the video on how to clean our water blocks here: ua-cam.com/video/0bwUNcJhhwE/v-deo.html
@@EKWBofficial i already made it, but i continue to find particles. so you are saying that this cleaner is not ideal for my prob??
@@MarcoTechExperiencesorry to burst your bubble but avoid solid coolants. You can never go wrong with clear coolant. Make it easy on yourself.
I have a z690 Glacial it has some build up in the block, looks like a gel, I'm hoping the Super Flush helps.
Did it work?
Just take the block apart and clean it manually, no cleaner liquid will clean it up on its own.
In the manual you say the loope cleaner is for flushing the rads, but in this video it sounds like you should use the superflush for flushing the rads?
@@Cernunn0s90 well ye i know. But why does the manual not say to use the superflush for the rads?
If I am not using loop cleaner, but have new EK rads do I flush them with distilled water before filling or not?
It’s a bit confusing as some of your videos say don’t do this but the cryofuel says do do this.
If I flush with distilled will it affect the balance of the mystic fog?
Thanks
i'm very new to the whole water loop system, it's about time for mine to be flushed and changed but i have no idea where to even begin, if anyone here has any videos or could explain in detail how to do so i would really appreciate it, i don't know what to flush it with or even how to run the pump by it's self i just know i need to do so, then refill with coolant. it's the first one i've ever owned so bare with me
I just flushed 2 new ek radiators before installing using an aquarium pump and distilled water, filtered through a coffee filter. Got some green small particles, very small and very little quantity. You guys did a good job on those radiators.
Had the opposite experience and flushed out around 6 rads, 2x360, 2x480 and 2x 560, all XM. Went through so much distilled water.
I don't know if there were issues with the first batches, but they were painful to clean. It was like a nation's worth of dandruff in there.
@@sargeyrose8253 Jesus, what the heck are you cooling? A nuclear reactor? I flushed the new quantum surface slim 360 and one performance 280 in my Y60 dark hero build, cooling a 5950x quantum vector cpu and a strix 4090 alphacool block. Surely you have a dual cpu build?
@@sargeyrose8253 I had a lot of residue as well. I used a gallon of distilled water for each on a 280 and a 360 radiator.
@@adamfogel837 I think you may have gotten luckier than me; I'm pretty sure I used at least 4 months of showers for mine.
Although it depended on the thickness, the thicker ones were more of a pain than the thinner ones. Still, even their radiator cleaning stuff did not help.
I might genuinely film myself next time.
I personally would never use respiratory air for draining the system, like shown in this video. By doing so one can bring back bacterium back to the system.
Not to mention you risk inhaling the cleaner vapors or getting it on your lips and in your mouth.
I hope you have a medical grade air system then and not just a harbor freight pancake compressor that gets dusted off every 8-12 months 😂
are these mixtures compatible with corsairs pmma tubing?
Would this help if I only used distilled water in my loop? The blocks are black and nasty. 😅
You can’t just use distilled water. You need to add biocides/growth inhibitors if you want to run distilled and not something like a premix. Idk how you didn’t come across this in your research before you did a custom loop but yeah, pretty standard tbh
If I got a brand new complete set of water cooling gear from EK (3x 420mm radiators, distribution block and pump, pipes, CPU block, GPU block and fittings ALL from you) would I still need to #pre-wash" the system to remove resins, etc that the manufacturer failed to remove? I understand about wasing oit once a year, but brand new unused EK parts? Surely EK is premium enough to guarantee all their brand new parts are pre-washed and ready to use for the first time?
Always do a pre-wash, and no, they are not premium enough.
Things will get left behind, due to the manufacturing process that they use, flux ect.
@Sargey Rose but then, surely, it should be down to the manufacturer to be responsible for rinsing out the parts they make? These parts are very expensive to buy for what they are & the relatively small amounts of materials used to make them. So for the premium prices, with cheaper alternatives to EK, shouldn't EK parts at least be sold pre-washed and ready to use?
@@TimLongson Would love it if that was the case. But no, kind of applies to all of the radiators you buy on the market. You always want to do a clean beforehand. Just standard practice.
Ist the superflush allowed to remain in the System for longer than 24h?
Hello, how do you reduce the speed of the pump if necessary ???
You have to turn on the PC and have the PC control the pump speed.
@@Zinic_is there a program involved?
@@juliangarcia6073 it runs on max speed when PC is off. Most likely your PC turned on will slow it down. Bios can handle that.
Seems like it will be hard on the pump and the rest of the componets to run for 24 hours straight. I thought about running power to the pump only during this period, but it's gonna run full blast without the bios. Did anybody figure out a better way to do this?
Any word on this?
@@TheGirthGoblin I did something crazy, but it worked. My pump is 12v, I think most of them are. I took an old 4 pin power plug and spliced a 12v power supply I had laying around into one end, plugged the other right in. The power supply was just a plug-in black cube type of something random I had. Make sure and read the label to check for 12v, at least an amp or 2.
Thanks to EK for the quick response to my inquiries..I wanted help replacing the heat pads for the Asus ROG Maximus Z690 Extreme Glacial motherboard and the Quantum Vector² Strix RTX 3090 graphics card. There was a quick response and immediate help and support. Thank you all❤❤🎉🎉
I will be building a new PC within the next year and was thinking of a water cool kit from EK. I am learning that it takes a lot of work and time to setup and maintain. Am I missing something or does this process take a couple of days? I am questioning if an custom loop is the way to go. Is the temperature reduction over an AIO that much?
Thank you for the video. But how did you test the loop for leaks?
Search the web for a water cooling pressure leak tester. It tests the loop to see if it’s airtight. Corsair makes one that’s pricey, but there are cheaper options. I went cheap and kinda regretting it tbh haha
the pump thing he held in his hand is an EK product.
You literally just pump in air up to a certain pressure and wait like 15 mins and see if it holds that pressure. If it holds air it will hold liquid
What about to only use Superflush to clean out a new build before use?
that's fine. loop cleaner is only for coolant change.
@@Creamworks yeah will do it this week
Be careful, I used superflush on a bran new full ekwb loop. It caused a powder residue to form on all my blocks and tubes and distro. Literally everything has to be torn down and cleaned. Wish I would have just used distilled water and coolant.
Temp on idle and max? Thanks
It's a loop cleaning video you muppet
where can I buy the bottle that is filling the loop
EK- Store, Amazon -EK
You can grab it here: ek.tech/Fill-Bottle
i whant to ask where to get the ride ge ddistileerd stuff can you ged dde ride adres to gedit in nederland??
Can you guys comment on the warning for aluminum parts in the manual? Are these products still safe to use? I have an asus z690 formula MB and I hear rumors that the vram heatsink might be aluminum, so im holding off on using this for now.
You shouldn't mix metals that come in contact with the liquid, as in a copper cpu block and an aluminum radiator.
The concern about aluminum is only for using parts or fittings that use aluminum. EK's cleaning and flush solutions are fine to use in an aluminum loop. How do I know? I contacted their tech support because I'm re-doing/upgrading my loop on the pre-built computer I bought from them. It's the mixing of metals that you need to be careful about.
You have to contact ASUS to send you that correct part since there was an RMA publicly announced.
@juliangarcia6073 that's what I did. Asus wanted me to send the whole MB back but I heard horror stories about their RMA process. Instead I had them send me the vrm heatsink replacement, and I rebuilt the whole system myself. Everything seems ok except I have brownish red gunk gathering around all of my orings. I was worried that it was bacteria, but it showed up within hours of filling the system, far to quick for bacteria. When I rebuilt I took every component out, broke down all plexi ek parts, connectors, oring, everything and soaked them in distilled water, then scrubbed them with dish soap, then rinsed with distilled again. I then ran the ek loop flush and clean twice before filling with ek cryofule. There is no way, even if I had bacteria, that it could grow that fast in these chemicals. I decided to wait and see, and as I expected it has not gotten worse. So I think what I'm seeing is oring grease leeching out of the orings. I've heard EK is notorious for the nasty grease they put on their orings. It doesn't matter in my system because I have so much rgb that you can't really notice the brown grease unless I set the rgb color to white.
Can you guys make a video on how to expand your new nucleus aio???
It's an AIO... You don't expand it.
@@Deltatwo3 but you can.
@@xGoody05 You can also burn a hundred dollar bill... Doesn't mean it's smart to do. Expanding an AIO is not only more work than it's worth it's also not cost effective at all. At that rate just get a better AIO to suit your needs or build yourself a loop. I mean you can do whatever you want it's just not worth the time, money or effort.
@@Deltatwo3 ok, thank you
I use a special paint brush oil free compressor at 1 bar to blow out the system, this makes that the loop has a constant stream of air, which is also dry. Because I build a lot of custom loops and do maintenance on those systems, it's also handy for blowing out dust. Those clean products are great, I use them too. In my own system, I do the cleaning every 6 months with full color fluids, and with the transparent colored fluids every year. I noticed with the "mist" fluids, the chance of clogging is much more happening than with the transparent colored. In short, I will start to build a fully ARGB custom loop, all with EK products. Except the UV LED strips, these I bought in a special modding shop. And these works great. Other strips give blue color, and don't get the UV out.
Is it okay if a little bit of EK-Superflush remains in the system after draining and then filling up the system with EK-Cryofuel?
Some build configurations may make it difficult to completely drain all of the EK-Superflush.
Fill the system with distilled water then run the loop, then drain. Repeat process until no EK-Superflush remaining.
@@benwhite8503 exactly what they tell NOT TO DO lol
From my understanding it's fine if a little bit still in the system
@@benwhite8503 no you're not supposed to do that. the entire point of superflush is that it is a better flushing solution than plain distilled water. using distilled water will revert any effects from superflush.
you just leave the leftover superflush in the loop after draining and let it mix with your coolant.
@@Creamworks did they not mix the superflush with distilled water?
Currently building an all EK loop. Is it really required to prepare the loop in this way or is it "just" recommended?
only recommended. i believe most people still use plain distilled water for cleaning and flushing.
Thanks for educational video.
EK, you make the coolest products out there!❤🔥🔥 But please, please please please.... a Monoblock for the ASUS ROG CROSSHAIR X670E Extreme would be sooooo freaking awesome!🙏
i always thought that blowing air in would introduce bacteria. but you did it, so I'm guessing it's not too bad
Its a bit confusing to start out the video by having 2 bottles each of cleaning fluid and super flush when only 1 each is required.
You may want to edit this video and add a safety disclaimer. Got some not-so-fun stuff in both the loop cleaner and the super flush.
safety instructions are in the product manual
Nice video... But you need to use proper protective gear when managing the concentrate!
And you used your mouth to blow air! Isn't it dangerous to accidentally breathe in vapor from this thing that you can't even dump it down the drain?
It would be nice to be able to get hold of the EK parts to finish the EK loop to then be able to flush it………stock holding is awful.
ordered mine 3 days ago
Thanks for the info. IMHO, this cleaning of manufacturing process residues should be done by the manufacturer before packaging: when we buy something new, we expect to be able to use it out of the box, especially when considering the high price of water loop elements. It's as if you were adding a tax of CAD $70.00 (ship. inc.) for buying your water loop components, and that's despicable: two bottles to buy, one for cleaning the loop, and another for cleaning the cleaner (for 250ml)... Come on guys, if you oblige us to do what you should do, at the very least make this affordable for what it is and stop trying to milk down your customers! Jesus...
I always hear him say MaTits :))
I love how ek became a bigger company bc they sold good stuff and had good customer support, now for the past couple years there products are way over priced and are poorly made.
Blowing bacteria from your mouth to flush the loop during a watercooling guide cleaning video 💀😭
He could have just used the leak tester to blow air into it.
@@blakes2k😮
It's not going to do anything 😂 y'all are touchy AF. Waterloops and PC parts are not as fragile as y'all make them out to be.
Why wouldn’t you show this using the reflection 2 distroplate, barely anyone uses that side distro, way more people use the reflection, this is silly.
I've Built 6 or 7 custom water loops and I never did this. Just flush your system for an hour with some distilled water, then add the coolant of your choice. Make sure you replace your coolant once a year and never use additives + distilled water in ek loops unless you like yellow stains.
Never use distilled water?
@@Kyezie131 Just stick with ekwb products and you will be fine. It's not the distilled water but the 3rd party additives you add to the water that can cause flaking and staining.
@@pccanvas Ohh okay gotcha. Because I was literally going to use EK concentrate and of course mix it with distilled water. First time building a loop so I was confused
@@Kyezie131 yes that is fine. Just replace the fluid once a year and you should be good. Jay's two cents has some great videos if you want to learn more.
@@Kyezie131 hmmm follow the manufacturer recommended treatment or a random internet expert (such an expert they are watching a video on how to flush a system), tough call this.
I like EH parts but you are Ridiculous trying to sell people on all these extra chemicals. I bet if you tried really hard you could turn those 4 bottles into 8 bottles of different products. Maybe we need a cleaner for the outside of the shipping Box and then another cleaner for the outside of the cooler and then a different cleaner for the plastic parts and then another cleaner for the painted parts and then a different cleaner for the O rings And then a different cleaner for where the plastic parts meet the metal parts and then another cleaner for after it's all clean And then another cleaner for before you clean it but after it's all clean but before you clean it again
Depending on your set up you only need one cleaner and one flush or just the flush if you have no major build ups.
One is meant to clean out the system and help remove build up that happens when using colored liquid and just over time and the other meant to flush the system to remove the cleaning solution and prep for the new coolant
Probably just citric acid tbh
😂😄😁!!! Then it'll be Clean Clean...Clean...
FIRST AND MAIN ADVICE: avoid facctory liquids. Or change em every 6 months
THIS! Or buy AquaComputer Ultra clear DP and change it once a year (or even less, but maintenance is the key)
Factory liquids as in EKs liquids? Why?
@@colton9841 consumer society. if u want long change periods use distilled water and some pharmacy alcohol (the ~90% one), and make a 5% mixture. that'll last. no fancy colours tho!
I bought the blue colored liquid. Someone told me the color ones stain your block and may cause blockage later and bad performance issues. Is that true or does ek make these liquids so that it doesn't do that. Is clear liquid the better option.
@@cybcarr alcohol??? Plexi????
"Dont game for 8hours" - ok i am out :-D
maybe just clean this shit after manufacturing it?
So basically, this is a 2 day process. Can you better explain why you can't game on the machine? You have fluid in the system. I hear that heat in the loop helps break up stubborn gunk.
bacteria growth, heat + moisture = bacteria growth/mold, as the video stated there's no biocide in the cleaner/rinse
@@cipher8390 thanks. I’m coming from the Primochill System Reboot cleaner. Their video states you can use the PC normally lol.
Сорян, есть на русском? Или кратко
You forgot to mention that it is a Hazardous Waste and should never be poured in your drain
I bought those cleaning kits a while ago and made this video ua-cam.com/video/7yNyakyKYdA/v-deo.html
This video should have been produced with safety in mind, the chemicals in this product are not something you want to get into contact with skin, the bottle of the superflush says "suspected of damaging the unborn child". I'm not saying you should not use this product but I would at least expect a more professional approach to safety, starting with the basics. Wearing gloves to avoid skin contact, proper eye safety goggles, some form of warning about the hazardous nature of the product, and not blowing into a tube with your mouth. I think as a reputable brand you have a social responsibility to ensure the safety of your users and the lack of basic safety precautions in this video is dissappointing. You can do better than this.
2days! WTF