I'm surprised your doing glass on this project but very cool! I'm going to try it on a project I'm working on this winter. Looking forward to seeing your finishing steps! Mike
Hi Mike, I use this type of surface preparation on almost all the airplanes I work on. It provides a significant amount of strength to the airframe, helping it withstand flight loads and preventing damage from hangar rash during transport. I have airplanes that are 30 years old, and you wouldn't be able to tell. Additionally, there is minimal weight penalty if applied correctly. If your model is meant to have a metal surface, the smooth finish is ideal for adding details such as panel lines and rivets. Definitely give it a try....cheers, Rick
@rcflyingwithrick i sure will. Yes it's metal with fabric on the tail surfaces. And ailerons. It'll be first time trying for a scale look. I am in the process of building it right now. Thanks.
Great videos, keep them coming. Question: I am making an old AAMCO Aeromaster and it has stringers in the turtledeck of the biplane. What would you recommend for glassing its fuselage, would you use the same poxy method you are showing here? Thanks, all the best for you.
That sounds like an exciting project! The biplane looks fantastic. However, I wouldn't recommend finishing it with fiberglass and epoxy. While it is possible to do so, it would require a significant amount of time, and the added weight could be a concern. The turtle deck, of course, will remain as is.
It's called "Blaze Glaze" (Automotive product) it is an epoxy filler that hardens in under 10 minutes. It is a remarkable material that sands easily. Although it is pricey, it is very strong and goes a long way.
You can use a squeegee, but be careful not to move the fibreglass fabric or to stretch it. Also to accomplish a perfectly level surface and not to remove too much resin. However, I find that using bathroom tissue paper is very effective in removing just the right amount of resin and keeping the surface perfectly level. It's also easy to remove the resin by just throwing the paper away. This method works well for beginners in glassing. In the end, it all comes down to personal preference.Thanks for asking. Rick
As always Rick yet another excellent and informative episode. I love your methodical approach on everything you do, models looking great 👍
Hi Craig, Thank you for your comment. Rick
Neat!
👍
Great project with a lot of helpful information.
Happy to hear the video is useful. Thanks for the comment. Rick
I have seen the toilet paper soak method but wondered if it leaves fibers behind.
I have never had it leave any fibres behind.
I'm surprised your doing glass on this project but very cool! I'm going to try it on a project I'm working on this winter. Looking forward to seeing your finishing steps! Mike
Hi Mike, I use this type of surface preparation on almost all the airplanes I work on. It provides a significant amount of strength to the airframe, helping it withstand flight loads and preventing damage from hangar rash during transport. I have airplanes that are 30 years old, and you wouldn't be able to tell. Additionally, there is minimal weight penalty if applied correctly. If your model is meant to have a metal surface, the smooth finish is ideal for adding details such as panel lines and rivets. Definitely give it a try....cheers, Rick
@rcflyingwithrick i sure will. Yes it's metal with fabric on the tail surfaces. And ailerons. It'll be first time trying for a scale look. I am in the process of building it right now. Thanks.
I'll check it out on your channel 👍😊
@rcflyingwithrick sweet the first video should be coming out in the next couple weeks.
Great videos, keep them coming. Question: I am making an old AAMCO Aeromaster and it has stringers in the turtledeck of the biplane. What would you recommend for glassing its fuselage, would you use the same poxy method you are showing here? Thanks, all the best for you.
That sounds like an exciting project! The biplane looks fantastic. However, I wouldn't recommend finishing it with fiberglass and epoxy. While it is possible to do so, it would require a significant amount of time, and the added weight could be a concern. The turtle deck, of course, will remain as is.
What is the green/ blue filler your using on the balsa before glassing?
It's called "Blaze Glaze" (Automotive product) it is an epoxy filler that hardens in under 10 minutes. It is a remarkable material that sands easily. Although it is pricey, it is very strong and goes a long way.
Great work! Any reason not to use a squeezie to remove the majority of the excess resin?
You can use a squeegee, but be careful not to move the fibreglass fabric or to stretch it. Also to accomplish a perfectly level surface and not to remove too much resin. However, I find that using bathroom tissue paper is very effective in removing just the right amount of resin and keeping the surface perfectly level. It's also easy to remove the resin by just throwing the paper away. This method works well for beginners in glassing. In the end, it all comes down to personal preference.Thanks for asking. Rick
Where do you get your fiberglass?
I purchase my fibreglass cloth from "Thunderbolt RC". The cloth is excellent quality. Also they give very good service-quick shipping.