Highwood HG Contoured Vintage Saddles - How to Pick the Correct Size
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- Опубліковано 22 сер 2024
- I simply love these saddles and think they are the best replacement saddles out there. In this video, I show you how to measure your existing Strat saddles so you will order the correct size. I made a mistake the first time I ordered these because I was basing my measurements on replacement saddles that were already on the guitar, e.g. Callaham. For vintage or reissue Strats, you should order the 10.80mm size. They are the exact size of vintage saddles. There SHOULD be a slight gap between each saddle. This gives you just enough space to push the saddles in to close that gap and move your E strings farther away from the edge of the fret board. Strats are known for the E string slippage problem and this is one way to minimize it. There is no loss of sustain and if anything, the guitar sounds better with the slight gaps. Leo pretty much nailed everything perfectly so why mess with perfection.
From Highwood's website:
Contoured you say? That's right. Meaning; without the screws sticking out the top of the Saddles. Our innovative Saddles are made from exceptional quality steel and are nickel coated directly onto the steel body to provide you with pure vintage tone!
HG Contoured Vintage Guitar Saddles have more mass giving you longer sustain, clearer note separation and definition, improved harmonic response and touch sensitivity. These smooth feeling saddles still retain a lovely vintage look.
Each HG Saddle set comes with stainless steel intonation and height adjustment screws and springs. An allen wrench is also included.
Please note: our Saddles are hardened, but not as much as some other brands. We have noticed that extremely hardened Saddles can change the tone of your guitar, sometimes making your guitar sound 'pingy'. That's because they add upper mid and high to your tone. We believe Leo got it pretty darn right.
I just stumbled onto your page and this stuff is gold. It's like watching UA-cam 15 years ago when people just shared and weren't always trying to sell you something weather you liked it or not. cheers
Your channel is a one-stop shop for Stratocaster players. I'm in heaven. I remember watching one of your videos years ago when I was interested in Alessandro speakers. I should've looked around more.
These saddles are the best thing that ever happened to my Strats, especially if you use the tremolo a lot. Thanks for watching. Be sure to check out the Musikraft neck videos too. I just improved on my vintage 1964 Strat by switching the vintage neck with a new Musikraft neck with vintage size Fender frets. Amazing.
@@millstap I was actually looking at one on the emporium over at the gear page. I will definitely watch the video before I pull the trigger.
This does make perfect sense. Vintage saddles probably did have a spread but they changed it because it isn't as good.
Hey man, I was just gonna say regarding you reverse headstock guitars that dont stay in tune 100% that if you remove your string tree from low e and a string and just wind those 2 strings down further for a better break angle will fix your trem issues. It's the best thing about the reverse IMO because you dont need staggered tuners or trees because you can get the low e at just about the perfect angle and it shouldn't ever pop out even with you using those lighter gauge hendrix gauge strings
Super helpful and exactly the info I was looking for. Highwood should post this on their site. Thanks for making it.
That’s great to hear. I was hoping it would help. I mentioned it to Highwood but I guess they never updated their website. You’ll love their saddles.
Wow, thanks for taking the time to make this video...I'm having the exact same issue, with the exact same HW saddles, on a '59 strat. I'll measure and order up the smaller size today, if I discover it's necessary.
Very informative, we'll done.
Yeah, I’m super happy I went to the smaller size. No more slippage off the neck, or very minimal.
Best upgrade to make to your strat imo , would never have found them if it wasn't for your channel 👍👍👍👍
I'm glad you like them. I wish I would have found them many years ago. I've gone through so many different brands but the design of these is an improvement over the originals.
@@millstap Totally agree , my strat is tuned to #D and can take huge bends and never goes out of tune , which is all down to the highwoods I think .
@@Dad-Gad I used to hate it when I would put on a new set of Callahams. On the first big bend, the string would slide all over the top of the saddle. It's a pretty lame design really. Not sure why Fender did that. I think if they had seen the Highwood design, they would have used them.
I totally get this....I was looking at these, due to your endorsement and a couple of others, and I have yet to figure what I'm after on their website. Too pricey to guess at for me, so really appreciate the timing of this flick Mil.
Thank goodness. I was hoping I would prevent someone from making the same mistake. That can be expensive and I'm not sure how easy it is to return them since they are in Finland but they do have dealers in the USA now.
The saddle/s width is a great point you brought up here.......the true vintage width is definately NOT as wide as most clones claim they are.
Yes, I had to switch them all back to 10.8mm which is much better.
Some years ago I bought some steel saddles from eBay. When they arrived they didn't fit the strat I intended them for. I just put them in my parts drawer. It wasn't until much later that I realized they were Highwood Saddles. Oddly, I only paid$15 or $16 dollars for them. After measuring I found they'd fit another strat of mine. They'll go on next string change.
That's a good price. I hope they work for you.
I just put these on my Super Vee Blade Runner bridge. I lowered the height screws on the in side of the two E strings just a hair so that side is slightly lower. The tension of the string will push the saddle toward the center and keep them from moving around freely when using the trem.
And they sound better than the cast saddles.
You didn’t care for the saddles that came on the Super Vee? I’m waiting on three sets of Highwoods right now. Two in chrome and one in nickel. I’ve never tried the chrome. The nickel set is for a friend. I will put a set on a new Partscaster I’m getting ready to build if I don’t care for the vintage saddles on my Mark Foley ‘50’s era tremolo bridge.
@@millstapwhy don’t you like the crazy parts/foley saddles and prefer HW?
@@jordanreinecke1378 I have quite a few reasons. But, I'm just about to put together my new Strat today and I will try the Foley vintage saddles for a while. The Highwoods have more sustain and the groove keeps the strings from moving when you do extreme bends. On the vintage saddles, the the string can slide around on the top of new saddles and eventually cut multiple grooves on the tops and increases string breakage too. I find I'm always having to buff out the grooves on the tops of vintage saddles. Also, when the groove gets deep enough, it causes the sitar effect as I call it where the string vibrates against the sides of the groove and it sounds like a sitar. The hardness of the vintage saddle makes a big difference and vintage Fender saddles are the best. No new production saddles have gotten the hardness and coating correct but the Foleys do look as close to vintage as you can get. I will know in the next few weeks if they are going to stay or replaced by my Highwoods.
@@millstap and you usually get the in between spacing? So the E strings don’t slip off?
@@jordanreinecke1378 Yes, the 10.8mm is the correct size for a vintage Strat. Highwood didn't get the exact measurements of real vintage saddles which are a hair wider. But the 10.8mm gives you the right amount of gap between the saddles with a little wiggle room to push them in. The 11.2mm's fit very tightly together and could push your E's just a hair too close to the edge.
Hey Sir, thanks for doing these, I saw your original video about these saddles and bought a set for my Strat, and I love 'em, also tried the Raw vintage springs and I think they also make a difference in sound and feel. Cheers!
Good deal. I'm surprised more people don't know about the Highwoods. They're pretty cool. Raw Vintage are the best springs too.
Am contemplating either sanding out grooves that have developed in my smooth top vintage bent steel saddles...
OR
Getting Highwoods saddles with the string grooves...?
Have always had smooth topped saddles, but it seems the steel is softer these days, and grooves develope after time...?
Have an older guitar that hasn't developed grooves from strings.
The newer one did.
How hard are the Highwood saddles?
If the offer smooth topped saddles, will they also develop grooves from strings?
Thanks.
Great information you have provided 😎👍👍
Mills tap so what would be the right saddles for a fender SRV strat from high wood man those saddles do sound good on your strats
I found my vintage bridge string spacing (2-7/32" = 11.2 mm saddles)) would have me close to E/e string slip-off on higher frets. . I then started going slightly narrower on my nut width , 1-5/8 ( 41mm) , and that has left me with plenty of side room on higher frets with my 2-7/32" vintage string spacing. 1-11/16 nuts work better with modern bridge spacing of 2-1/16th string spacing which corresponds to 10.8 saddles.
Exactly. The trouble I had with my other guitars were the nut slots were cut too wide. But, all of the Musikraft nuts I have gotten have been perfect with narrower spacing. That has helped a lot but I probably could still use a little extra space. But, Highwood and several other guys didn't get the saddle dimensions correct. I just got a vintage tremolo from Mark Foley and his saddles are perfect and measure exactly what my vintage saddles do at 10.98mm. Highwood went with either 11.2 or 10.8mm which baffles me where they got those dimensions so you really are forced to get the 10.8mm which are a hair too small and the 11.2mm is really going to push those E's out even further.
cool video, I have the 11.20mm width ones on my 50s reissue, they work great, intonate well, feel comfortable and even a slightly better tone, well made
Yeah, if you don't have the slippage problem, your good to go but I like that extra space so I am going to put the 10.8mm's on the other two Strats too.
Thank you.
I just bought several sets off reverb they look awesome
They are the best thing to happen to the Strat saddles ever. Did you go with the 10.8 mm size?
Yes 10.8 mm thanks to your info I knew what to buy. I am stoked now because now the strat has what it was missing. I have four strat builds with all the parts and yesterday was able to return the Callaham saddles/I did not like the looks of them they were thin &cheap looking/ I emailed the seller & showed him your videos
@@MrSteppingstone888 Was the seller Bill Callaham, lol? I'm sure he would appreciate that. Bill isn't completely honest with his saddles. They are not vintage correct.
@@millstap Yes 10.8 mm thanks to your info I knew what to buy. I am stoked now because now the strat has what it was missing. I have four strat builds with all the parts and yesterday was able to return the Callaham saddles/I did not like the looks of them they were thin &cheap looking/ I emailed the seller & showed him your videos
This has been driving me crazy as well. The Fender bridge saddle screw holes and string through holes are drilled the same as the mounting holes. (2 7/32) Your original saddles were made in imperial measurements, slightly bigger than 10.8mm.
I’ve found that if the string does not line up from the string hole in the bridge to the center of the saddle, you get tuning problems. Pushing them together for extra space on the neck creates this problem. If you use lighter gauge strings with less downforce, they move around and change your string spacing and tuning. Your thoughts?
That is one of the exact reasons I went with the groove. The string cannot move around. On brand new standard saddles, you have to tolerate a lot of movement until the string finally cuts a groove into the top of the saddle where the string will hang up. I have virtually no tuning problems when the string is pushed in a little. I used to do it with standard saddle and move the string to the inner most groove. But, I found with the little burr type grooves the string cuts, it creates a string cutting area and you break a lot of strings. I used to buff down those grooves every time I changed strings and that eventually wore out the saddles. If you look at all of the Fender saddle designs, almost all of them have grooves. The Stratocaster is one of the few Fenders without grooves. Particularly look at the Jazzmaster. Those threaded barrel saddles had many grooves and you could put the string in whichever one you chose. But, that guitar also had a lot of problems with the strings popping out of the saddles. The early Teles also had threaded barrel saddles. Most guitars do including Les Pauls. They don't want the strings moving around. That will cause tuning problems. I have conquered the tuning problems especially with extreme use of the whammy bar. The best part about the Highwood groove is it is a nice little home for Teflon grease, particularly Super Lube. That groove will keep a little grease in it and your hand won't wipe it off as fast as it would on a standard saddle. Almost all tuning issues when using the tremolo, are caused by the strings hanging up on the saddle and those string cut grooves exacerbate the problem. Even Leo in the past when he was at G&L, designed a bridge where all the strings had to bend from the plate hole to the top of the saddle. It looked weird and I don't why he did it. It had to do with where the intonation screw was located. But, it didn't cause any tuning problems. Get the Highwoods and put the grease in there and you'll be set. I don't even think about greasing the nut anymore. That is a myth. The grease is clear and food grade so it won't stain anything. Good stuff.
I had an American standard Strat with the block saddles and 2 point bridge, but I never thought it sounded as good as the original. I’ve had the 2 point with the bent steel saddles and that didn’t do it for me either. All I own now is the original 6 point bridges. (EJ and a Classic ‘50s)
I also like the sound of the Fender saddles better than anything else I’ve tried.
Is the groove on the Highwood bent or filed into the saddle? Loss of mass makes me hesitant.
@@rjake61 Check out this video where I did the close-ups, ua-cam.com/video/-EaE-c-S1fk/v-deo.html. There is actually a little more mass. The groove is formed in there somehow and very smooth. Also, I think I'll post their website description of the design. I think if Leo had seen the design, he would have gone with it. They have a tad more sustain but really sound the same as my vintage saddles. You may have a better ear. They are super solid when you bend strings. The problem with ALL of the replacement saddles including Fender, is I still cut grooves in the tops and then start breaking strings. It's a never ending battle. Check the video description in a few minute.
Great video I think I’m going to order a set of high wood saddles after your videos but which ones should I get for my SRV strat it’s a 1996 I love this guitar but I struggle with keeping it in tune after using the bar changed the nut and installed a set of the raw vintage springs all 5 but my saddles have grooves in them so I’m gonna get a set of high wood saddles from watching your videos.
You'll have to measure your old saddles like I did in this video. I would guess you still need the 10.8mm and not the 11.2mm. When you put the Super Lube grease in the groove on the Highwoods, this should help solve your tremolo tuning problem. The strings are probably hanging up on old saddles.
I have the same problem with springs going off the side of the neck. I have a couple of solutions I haven’t tried yet, tell me what you think? What if you took a a really thin high e string and threaded it around your saddles, and twisted the ends together until it pulled all the saddles together and closed the gaps! It would keep the strings on the fretboard better and give it more sustain?
Well, as much as I appreciate the idea, every time I try something like this, it ends up being a bad idea. I ends up being a pain to maintain. With the narrower saddles (vintage correct) you can push the E's in a little and they will stay there just from string tension pushing down on the height screws. For some reason, it looks like all the manufacturers of new replacement saddles felt the need to fill those spaces between the saddles. I see Raw Vintage has the two size option 11.2 and 10.8mm but they label the 11.2 "Fender" and the 10.8 "Gotoh Japan type." Even on standard saddles, I would push the E's in mainly but sometimes the B and G too until I formed a groove there to keep the string in place. But then you start getting the sitar effect when the grooves get too deep. And, on full whammy bar dive bombs, the saddles can move back out a little so I am constantly checking them if I start slipping off the edge of the neck. Kind of a pain. Fender did get this one wrong by putting them so close to the edge and filling those saddle spaces just makes the problem worse.
Here’s another thing that might help, highway one strats have narrower saddles and are considered American parts so they might fit ?
Yes, if you are looking for a standard saddle, then those narrower ones may be the answer because most the other are 11.2mm. But, Raw Vintage also has a 10.8mm size. Callaham has a 2-1/16" string spacing set but don't give the saddle widths. I assume they are the narrower saddles but they may be all the way down to 10.5mm which wouldn't be good. 10.8mm is vintage correct.
thanks for the video. Question....If I get the highwoods with the 2 1/16 spacing, can I keep my current 6-Saddle American Vintage Synchronized Tremolo? The saddles on it are 2 7/32 so do I need to replace it with a Callaham bridge or something like that for the Highwoods to fit tight together? Hope this makes sense!
I'm not sure why you would want the 10.5 mm saddles with the 2-1/16" spacing on a standard 2-7/32" tremolo. If it is a standard tremolo bridge with 2-7/32" spacing, I found getting the 10.8mm saddles were best. The 11.2mm saddles will fit with no gaps between the saddles but then you risk the chance of pushing your E strings out slightly which could put them too close to the neck's edge. Highwood advertised that there should be no gaps in between the saddles but on vintage Strats, there were slight gaps. I think now, it also depends some on your nut width. My guitars all have a 1.65" or 41.9 mm nut width.
@@millstap because I don't like the 7/32 spacing. I want the modern 1/16 spacing
@@doyouluvit I don't think it will work. I would contact Callaham for verification. There will be big gaps with the 10.5 mm saddles and you will not be able to squeeze them together and keep them in place. I don't think you can put a 2-1/16" tremolo bridge on your Strat because the 6 mounting screw holes will not like up. www.callahamguitars.com/tech_compatibility_strat.htm
I just picked up a 59/62 AVRI Stratocaster for a song. Somebody was going for the SRV thing, which doesn’t bother me at all. I’m ordering some Raw Vintage springs and some Highwood saddles right now.
Oh, I see here. Somehow this comment probably went to my junk mail. I don't check it much but about 30% of all of my comments go to junk and I'm not sure why. So you are going with the 10.8mm Highwoods?
millstap the saddles on the AVRI bridge are 10.8mm, so I ordered 10.8mm Highwood saddles.
@@matthewf1979 Great. So Gotoh is a Japanese product? My Nash had a Gotoh bridge/tremolo on it but the springs were horrible. The Raw Vintage springs made a huge difference on that guitar.
millstap Yes, Gotoh is a Japanese OEM supplier. They took over the Ibanez/FGN OEM work after they went into full time guitar production. Almost all vintage Kluson style tuners are from Gotoh and non Fender branded bridges are Gotoh as well. Kluson the company was sold off years ago and are nothing but a name on a box with Gotoh tuners inside. Even my $6500 Gibson R9 has Gotoh “Kluson Deluxe” tuners on it.
They make really good parts that are to spec, except springs but Fender gets that wrong too. Fortunately there’s US companies that make parts too. They just cost three times(or way more) as much.
@@matthewf1979 Yeah, I installed some left handed Klusons several months ago and they are super nice. Better than the originals with the 15:1 gear ratio. It certainly looked like they were still Made in the USA. I need to go look at the box.
Stan, Chicago here... Glad to see you back. Were you still interested in the 5881's . nos military boxes. Sorry I hijacked your post. I lost your email address. Crazy times here Chgo. Lunatics everywhere... Muddy Waters house here is being restored for a Blues museum 43rd Lake Park Ave.I grew up on 53rd . If I only knew back then,I was just a a kid. Hope all is well.
Hello Chicago! It's been so long, I barely remember discussing 5881's. Send me a message on my FB page, Millstap's UA-cam Channel. I recently bought another so called match pair but haven't even put them in the amp to see if they were really matched. It's always nice to have spares but they last so long, I may not live long enough to use them, lol. Chicago sure is in the new a lot lately. This is one of the craziest years ever. I think the quarantine drove everyone crazy.
@@millstap I don't do social media. sorry
@@xxshocktheatrexx I don't think it's social media. It is a private message on my page through Messenger. A lot of people discuss amps with me there although I forget to check in on my messages regularly. FB has changed the whole look recently and I'm having trouble navigating the new look. But, it is private if you want to send a message. I just don't like posting my email in UA-cam anywhere.
Can those be placed on a Player series strat?
Yes. Just be sure to measure correctly to order the correct size. I think it will be 10.8mm or 10.5mm. They have the measuring instructions on their website.
How much does a set cost I went to the website and it seemed like it wasn't working properly
39.95 Euros.
Hey long time. What radious do you use?
I have a question about tuning in octaves. The saddles are in a different position on the green guitar. Thanks.
You mean setting the intonation by adjusting the saddle position? The octave intonation can be done several ways but the saddle position is mainly dictated by the size of the core wire on the wound strings. You'll notice the plain string saddles usually don't need adjusting if you use the same gauge strings every string change. But different brand of strings use different core sizes on the wound strings so you usually have to readjust the saddles to get an accurate intonation at the 12th fret. Another method is to get the octaves to match at the 5th and 17th frets. I usually check both. Most of the time when they are correct at the 12th fret, they will still be sharp at the 17th fret. It's a compromise. Sometimes you get a wayward string where the saddle seems to have to be moved to the extreme, mainly on the wound E. Ideally, they usually look like a stair step configuration with the wounds and plains in a separate group. Just yesterday, I had to adjust the big E saddle all the way back for a new string. I didn't like that so I tried another exact brand and gauge string and the saddle went back to the normal position. I am not sure what causes that anomaly but it does occur. I think it is a defect in the string somewhere. So, each guitar will be different based on the string gauge, brand, and possible defects.
Thank you for your answer. I changed the tremolo block and strings, installed a Callaham block and Pyramid Round Core 10 - 46 strings. Fender Stratocaster reissue 57. I usually use Fender Super Bullets 10 - 46. Yes, typical stairs have changed. I had to move some saddles. For example, the saddle of the E2 string. It is now in the position of the A2 string. Best regards from the Czech Republic.
@@bluesv1012 I was using the Bullets but the became unavailable here now. They have been on backorder for over 3 months. I am really glad though because I didn't realize how much difference the round core Pyramids would make in my tone, especially for Hendrix. Hello Czech Republic. I love that music is such a universal good that brings everyone together. I use the Hendrix gauge 10-38's exclusively now. You have to set your Strat properly for them to sound good.
I wanted your opinion on the fender supersonic 22 sound wise ? :) in your opinion what is the best sounding new fender tube amp?
Vibro king sounds great to me
I agree, the Vibroking is used by Pete Townsend I think but is pretty expensive. There are so many. I would check out some of the reissues like the blackface Deluxe and they have some new hardwired models I've heard about. Not sure which circuit those are though.
millstap got my hand wired VK for $1300 used which is a steal and about the same as DRRI new, just gotta look around, I think you’d really dig a vibroking Mr Millstap
Hello i have 0,433 saddles on my strat and highwood have 0,441 and 0,425 , which one is the right one?
Which model Strat do you have?
@@millstap fender hot rod 57 reissue
@@StefanosAndritsios That's a tough one. If your E strings are running precariously close to the edges of the neck, I would stick with .425"s which is closer to vintage saddle specs.
Is that going to work? Because hg grooves are centred. Your 62 Strat the strings don’t settle on center of saddle. So the width could only be the same 10.8 if the groove was offset to match nut?
They worked perfectly. Ideally you would hope the strings do settle in the center of a new standard saddle but they don't only because they slide around a lot when they are new until the strings finally cut grooves into the chrome. Those grooves end up causing all kinds of problems like string breakage, sitar string effect, and tremolo tuning problems. Usually, they end up with multiple grooves. At least that is my experience with replacement saddles. That is one reason I like the Highwood groove so much. Just get the 10.8mm size and the groove with be perfect. It makes the strings so much more stable, especially on hard bends.
Unfortunately already got the wider HG ones... but hadn’t noticed a problem e strings slipping off fingerboard so maybe my neck is slightly wider or nut is cut different.
@@RokinLee Did you receive them already? I'm not sure but Piet may exchange them. There are some dealers in the USA. I would check with them. If you don't have slippage, then it shouldn't be a big deal. You really have no choice with the others. Callaham and Raw Vintage are both around 11.30mm. The Gotoh's I just measured are around 10.80mm but who uses those? The extra room does feel better so, if you can switch, give it a shot. 10.80mm is vintage correct and I am not sure why everyone afterward felt they had to fill in those gaps. Like you said, some modern necks and nuts are wider so maybe they are accommodating mostly modern guitars.
@@millstap looking closer i can see that the E strings flare out as they reach the bridge.. i measured the saddles i replaced and they are under 11mm. HG need to ammend that guidance as I'd never have gone for import/asian specs on amercian made strat. But then again if I'd measured as they suggest then id have seen I needed 10.8mm. Interestingly my other strat an American deluxe with two piont has thinner than 10.8mm.
@@RokinLee I discussed it with them and Piet is supposed to change the wording on their website this week sometime. I would find out who the closest US dealer is and see if you can exchange them. Just mail them in a small bubble envelope for very little. It seems nice to close the gaps so the bridge is solid but as you've noted, the strings flair out towards the bridge. That's interesting that the American Deluxe is even narrower. They would probably take the 10.5mm set.