I’m happy I found this! I actually bought a mini lathe headstock for this very reason. I guess I shouldn’t be surprised that someone has done this before 😆
Big Respect ....you already build your 4th the same way I wanted to since half a year I have everything here ready to rumble 😎😎 but never started so now this kick in my ad leave me no way to finish this job 🤗🤗👍
Great work! I made a 4th axis as well and use Fusion and Mach3. For the CAM fusion supports 4th axis, you only have to give it the 4th axis position in the post-process option (just before you save it). THere are cool tool strategys for 4 axis machining in Fusion, like rotary, that you have to activate it. You can search online how. Regarding Mach3, on top of the pins and motor tuning, you only have to set the A axis or whatever you use as a rotary axis in General configurations. Last step is to set the stock radius, this is important to calculate the feed rate. Fusion will output G93 which is reverse time, so Mach3 needs to know the radius if you want the correct feed rate. The trick I suggest is to set it at the lower value possible, like 0.0001, and set your XYZ0 at the center of the stock. In this way you do not need to set the radius compensation in Mach3 anymore, and leave the 0.0001 value. Happy machining!
Great stuff, thanks! I think I have everything in Mach3 set as needed, except for the stock radius, my plan was to output any code for this to have my WCS origin at the center of the stock like you said. I haven't done any full programming yet so I plan on clutching the E-Stop for dear life for the first few runs 😂
@@PracticalRenaissance Perfect, then assign the 4th axis position in Fusion post porcess and set the radius compensation to the lowest value in Mach3 (it's not in the main windows) and it will work out! Looking forward to see it in action. It's actually pretty fun. I have made some herringbone gears as well with it.
Nice. Something you might consider is an idler pulley instead is sliding the motor. Then a slightly larger belt and the idler pulley doesn’t just tighten the belt, it changes the engagement with the small pulley. It definitely will increase the holding power of the belt wraps 180 degree around the stepper pulley. If you need more holding than you ended up with, you might consider it
I find the trick with the run from here button it to hit the cancel button when you get the "I'm going to move to this location" pop up and the hit cyle start after that.
@@PracticalRenaissance yeh, we have been all there. "Run from here" coud have been made a bit more clear. I hit cancel as well and put the feed rate to 10% just to be sure, the speed it back.
I’d be especially worried about the rotational velocity of this setup... it might actually drop the key on your foot! 🤪 (seriously though, on a lathe, leaving the key in the chuck is a great way to have it come flying at your head).
How’s the rotational rigidity of that belt setup? I’m curious as to how much chatter you get, and how aggressive you can be with the cutting forces... 🤔
I am curious how that belt works out. One would think it would have too much flex during milling operations. I have a spare Taig spindle that I think I will attach to a harmonic drive and stepper for zero backlash positioning.
It is great that you have shown your project in such up close detail. Showing the programming behind it and the problems you had along the way is a real insight into how these machines work. You said it took longer than you thought, how would you go about things differently next time you had to do something like this?
I would be interested to know your findings with regard to whether the stepper motor's holding torque and dynamic torque proved sufficient to do (3+1) axis, and full 4-axis machining respectively, or whether and under what circumstances you lost steps and positional accuracy.
That was something I tried to do myself a while back. but keeping it a lathe for speed as well. So essentially you can switch back and forth. Needless to say my idea flopped and I gave up lol
A 1:6 ratio will give you 3*6=18Nm at the spindle.. That's around 360N at 50mm from the center.. I have no idea what kind of thrust forces you could get when drilling off center for example, but it seems a bit low to me?
Did you consider angular contact bearings instead of tapered roller bearings? Apparently you can get better precision/less runout with angular contact bearings and I guess for the radial/axial loads you probably will put on it both types will have far and away enough load-bearing capacity. But wondering if you had any thoughts on it.
Thing is, they're the only good bearing upgrade. They say these are "more stiff" but that's not the bottleneck of stiffness anyway and you can get sealed angular contact bearings. Taper rollers are always open, not for dry systems
@@perspectivex even more on the lathe because the higher rpm there is no good for poorly lubricated taper rollers but there's one more thing, the taper rollers are thicker than original bearings in the axial direction whereas the angular contact ball bearings are all same dimensions as the original regular ball bearings. The bearings will withstand the load and much more.
@@MF175mp thanks for the clarification. I'm getting the picture after reading a lot that tapered roller = for super heavy slower rpm loads, angular contact = for faster rpm, usually more precise.
@@perspectivex they both can be super precise if you bought the super precision versions. The taper rollers can take much more load having more surface contact area but that's not really an issue in a sieg headstock at all.
Enjoyed your video. Excellent work!! If I had my druthers, I would rather hear the sound of your machine while it is cutting,, rather than "music". Part of the learning is hearing the sound of the cut (feeds and speed would be nice too) I won't un-subscribe to your channel, but I have de-subbed others for using music during a technical video. You do good voice-over work,.... no music needed.
Hey man! That's pretty rad 👌 I wanna do this on my x2 but I'd get like 4 inches left on x axis. Hey could you do a vid on motor tuning? Lots of terrible tutorials out there
very well done.. I think the A axis is under motor tuning in config.. I could be wrong as i only have 3 axis..More likley is its arranged like super mario where you have to find the worm holes or the cheat codes to skip 3 levels. The f360 should be interesting , running the simulations and praying it does that in real life. (-'
You really shouldn’t ever leave the chuck key in the chuck as seen in the thumbnail. If you ever forget it’s in there and you turn the machine on, it could fly out at you, knocking the wind/teeth out of you.
![[UA] NAVI vs MOUZ | BO5 | IEM Rio 2024](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/CMBYk0cbGoA/mqdefault.jpg)
I’m happy I found this! I actually bought a mini lathe headstock for this very reason. I guess I shouldn’t be surprised that someone has done this before 😆
Awesome project! Using a mini lathe spindle was a touch of genius.
Big Respect ....you already build your 4th the same way I wanted to since half a year I have everything here ready to rumble 😎😎 but never started so now this kick in my ad leave me no way to finish this job 🤗🤗👍
Genius to use a headstock, why did I not think of that! Great job!
The music make it impossible to quit watching this video, great video.
I can't wait for the next installment where you cut some crazy stuff on it!
Already tried a little, can't wait to get some full code posted and parts made!
Great work! I made a 4th axis as well and use Fusion and Mach3. For the CAM fusion supports 4th axis, you only have to give it the 4th axis position in the post-process option (just before you save it). THere are cool tool strategys for 4 axis machining in Fusion, like rotary, that you have to activate it. You can search online how. Regarding Mach3, on top of the pins and motor tuning, you only have to set the A axis or whatever you use as a rotary axis in General configurations. Last step is to set the stock radius, this is important to calculate the feed rate. Fusion will output G93 which is reverse time, so Mach3 needs to know the radius if you want the correct feed rate. The trick I suggest is to set it at the lower value possible, like 0.0001, and set your XYZ0 at the center of the stock. In this way you do not need to set the radius compensation in Mach3 anymore, and leave the 0.0001 value. Happy machining!
Great stuff, thanks! I think I have everything in Mach3 set as needed, except for the stock radius, my plan was to output any code for this to have my WCS origin at the center of the stock like you said. I haven't done any full programming yet so I plan on clutching the E-Stop for dear life for the first few runs 😂
@@PracticalRenaissance Perfect, then assign the 4th axis position in Fusion post porcess and set the radius compensation to the lowest value in Mach3 (it's not in the main windows) and it will work out! Looking forward to see it in action. It's actually pretty fun. I have made some herringbone gears as well with it.
"This is where I keep various lengths of wire." ... [Subscribed]
Nice. Something you might consider is an idler pulley instead is sliding the motor. Then a slightly larger belt and the idler pulley doesn’t just tighten the belt, it changes the engagement with the small pulley. It definitely will increase the holding power of the belt wraps 180 degree around the stepper pulley. If you need more holding than you ended up with, you might consider it
Good thought, I hadn't considered increasing the engagement on the motor pulley, it's something I will remember if I run into trouble, thanks!
I see many custom muzzle devices in your future. ;)
I find the trick with the run from here button it to hit the cancel button when you get the "I'm going to move to this location" pop up and the hit cyle start after that.
Awesome tip, thanks! I never hit "cancel" on that pop up dialog because I blindly assumed it would just....cancel, lol
@@PracticalRenaissance yeh, we have been all there. "Run from here" coud have been made a bit more clear. I hit cancel as well and put the feed rate to 10% just to be sure, the speed it back.
Nice futurama reference
Key in chuck trolls have entered the chat
I’d be especially worried about the rotational velocity of this setup... it might actually drop the key on your foot! 🤪 (seriously though, on a lathe, leaving the key in the chuck is a great way to have it come flying at your head).
How’s the rotational rigidity of that belt setup? I’m curious as to how much chatter you get, and how aggressive you can be with the cutting forces... 🤔
Great job, I may do this on my DIY CNC'd Sieg SX3 mill!
Dude you kept your word you were working on a vid.... God bless happy fortj!!
I am curious how that belt works out. One would think it would have too much flex during milling operations. I have a spare Taig spindle that I think I will attach to a harmonic drive and stepper for zero backlash positioning.
Great, and interesting project Jeff. Thanks
I probably would have added some dowel pins to locate the lathe head to the mounting plate. But it’s probably not necessary
Nice video, and great idea to use a mini lathe headstock!
It is great that you have shown your project in such up close detail. Showing the programming behind it and the problems you had along the way is a real insight into how these machines work. You said it took longer than you thought, how would you go about things differently next time you had to do something like this?
I would be interested to know your findings with regard to whether the stepper motor's holding torque and dynamic torque proved sufficient to do (3+1) axis, and full 4-axis machining respectively, or whether and under what circumstances you lost steps and positional accuracy.
At first I had more concerns about it than I do after testing it under power, TBH, but will happily report back all of my findings and failings!
You can cut in a way that the cutting force is mostly projected into the chuck so the torque is not thaaaaat high.
That was something I tried to do myself a while back. but keeping it a lathe for speed as well. So essentially you can switch back and forth. Needless to say my idea flopped and I gave up lol
Nice project! Thanks for sharing
Did you post the base plate and the stepper mounting plate somewhere?
I want to see more of those assorted lengths of wire. Did you build a space ship with them?
I really ought to make a video about the space ship... buuuuuuuutt.... I am already in my pajamas....
Professor Farnsworth approves
Nice Futurama reference
Love the intro!
Nice stepper and pully setup. Uses aux axis? Making stuff to make more stuff.
A 1:6 ratio will give you 3*6=18Nm at the spindle.. That's around 360N at 50mm from the center.. I have no idea what kind of thrust forces you could get when drilling off center for example, but it seems a bit low to me?
it is indeed too low, the stepper won't be able to hold the torque correctly while milling, unless of course you make a lot of passes...
Some really good ideas. Thanks.
Very nice video! Which camera system are you using for filming?
Canon EOS T6i thank you!
very good video..thanks for your time
Was that a hockey puck you used for pressing in the bearing?
Yeah I bought a stack of them on amazon a while ago and use them for all sorts of stuff around the shop!
@@PracticalRenaissance Just making sure my eyes weren't playing tricks :-D
Have you checked into a harmonic gear drive? I may have a 80:1 laying around.
Did you consider angular contact bearings instead of tapered roller bearings? Apparently you can get better precision/less runout with angular contact bearings and I guess for the radial/axial loads you probably will put on it both types will have far and away enough load-bearing capacity. But wondering if you had any thoughts on it.
Thing is, they're the only good bearing upgrade. They say these are "more stiff" but that's not the bottleneck of stiffness anyway and you can get sealed angular contact bearings. Taper rollers are always open, not for dry systems
@@MF175mp You're saying angular contact would be better, at least in the case of this 4th axis build?
@@perspectivex even more on the lathe because the higher rpm there is no good for poorly lubricated taper rollers but there's one more thing, the taper rollers are thicker than original bearings in the axial direction whereas the angular contact ball bearings are all same dimensions as the original regular ball bearings. The bearings will withstand the load and much more.
@@MF175mp thanks for the clarification. I'm getting the picture after reading a lot that tapered roller = for super heavy slower rpm loads, angular contact = for faster rpm, usually more precise.
@@perspectivex they both can be super precise if you bought the super precision versions. The taper rollers can take much more load having more surface contact area but that's not really an issue in a sieg headstock at all.
Enjoyed your video. Excellent work!! If I had my druthers, I would rather hear the sound of your machine while it is cutting,, rather than "music". Part of the learning is hearing the sound of the cut (feeds and speed would be nice too) I won't un-subscribe to your channel, but I have de-subbed others for using music during a technical video. You do good voice-over work,.... no music needed.
That's really nice of you not to unsubscribe because of the music.
@@erik.... My tool maker friend got me hooked on listening to the sound of the cut while the machine is working.. Hard habit to break
Hey man! That's pretty rad 👌 I wanna do this on my x2 but I'd get like 4 inches left on x axis. Hey could you do a vid on motor tuning? Lots of terrible tutorials out there
Yes! I intend to do a followup video with the more nitty gritty (boring) stuff that there's not much info about!
And now I have a new song stuck in my head... ba bum bum ba :D
I see that Saikon.
very well done.. I think the A axis is under motor tuning in config.. I could be wrong as i only have 3 axis..More likley is its arranged like super mario where you have to find the worm holes or the cheat codes to skip 3 levels. The f360 should be interesting , running the simulations and praying it does that in real life. (-'
This would be an extreeemely easy way to build a rotary weld positioner.
Well, thats one of the thoughts behind this for future use ;)
Great vid love the new ways....
Should've gone with green to match the mill.
Protect future fingers... Lol. Are you getting new ones soon?
Great vid - ty!
lol, love your style man
and my box of carbide shame is about 40% 1/8 endmills
Hope you replaced all those plastic gears before you put in to action.
You really shouldn’t ever leave the chuck key in the chuck as seen in the thumbnail. If you ever forget it’s in there and you turn the machine on, it could fly out at you, knocking the wind/teeth out of you.
That wrench left in the chuck in the miniature is triggering me so much.
Two 10mm wrenches? Are you rich or something.
I have a third but edited it out to avoid the guillotine