This is really a very useful video to get rid of the annoying red coloration on the display and to be able to judge the images that way before sitting at the computer and processing the raw data. Thanks a lot for this.👍
This is really smart. I could wait for a cloudy day, take my camera outside and capture some frames for "cloudy" white balance calibration with a card, then do the same on a sunny day, then go indoors and capture calibration frames for artificial lighting.
Great video. I have a Nikon 7500 modified. What settings regarding white balance you use? The reason I'm asking is because I find it difficult to find targets with it. Increase ISO for framing? GREAT videos , editing and your audio is aamazing. Diana
@@kamilkp I will be using a new small mount scientific explorer Exos , I have a Skywatcher EQ6-R. I also watched your video on the optolong l extreme and will be adding this too. I guess it wil be even darker.
If you have a computerized GOTO mount then pointing shouldn’t be a problem. Just use the GOTO feature or better yet, connect to a computer and use plate solving
@@kamilkp That's a great idea. I thought I need new readers LOL! It is really hard to see, and wanted to ask someone because the dedicated camera is a different deal. Thank you so much for your time, and I am watching all of your videos, it is so pleasant to get good information and great production! Your lighting is really good too, you will see me around! Diana
Well thought... But I was wondering, to make the process even easier, if you also could, rather than adjust the WB with the 3 sd card pics all the time, assign instead C1, C2 and C3 to the same common general settings, but each one with its own WB preset from your 3 W.Balanced pics. Unless you would need the Custom Functions C1 to C3 for something else, it would be much quicker for just the WB switch, no ? And should the camera be unable to memorize 3 different custom white balance settings, well, then each of these setting should have a corresponding WB temperature, which can then be assign to each custom function instead, no ? Any insight welcome...
Hey Kamil! Great video as usual. I do have a quick question. What WB do you use to minimize the reddish tinge in the night astrophotography? I want to capture the Ha emissions but don’t want the entire photo to have a reddish tinge. Thanks.
@@kamilkp thanks so much. So should I shoot a gray card or white card and use that as reference WB? Would I still be able to capture the bright red Ha emissions in the nebulae and galaxies and Milky Way? Also, I don’t have the color card you used. Can I simply use a white paper or a white card? Can you kindly post a link where I can purchase that color chart that you used in your video? Thanks as always.
@@kamilkp ok. Will do that. Then basically go to the WB settings and choose that image as the reference, correct? And that would eliminate the excess reds in the night images (and day ones) but will not affect the Ha emission reds, right? Thank you sooo much
Could edit the colours in gimp after easily instead? I have to document all of my rocks fossils and minerals which would be over 500 so would take a really long time i guess
Yes, as a previous directory of photography for an Australian feature film, the fingers on the colour swatches made me cringe. We used ColorCheckers extensively, and if that happened with someone leaving skin grease on it, it would be thrown away and replaced.
Genius
This is really a very useful video to get rid of the annoying red coloration on the display and to be able to judge the images that way before sitting at the computer and processing the raw data.
Thanks a lot for this.👍
Having astro-modified my Canon T3i this past winter, I greatly appreciated this video. Many thanks!
You’re welcome!
Can you use h-alpha modified camera with flash for daytime shooting?
This is really smart. I could wait for a cloudy day, take my camera outside and capture some frames for "cloudy" white balance calibration with a card, then do the same on a sunny day, then go indoors and capture calibration frames for artificial lighting.
Your method sounds cheaper too
Great video. I have a Nikon 7500 modified. What settings regarding white balance you use? The reason I'm asking is because I find it difficult to find targets with it. Increase ISO for framing? GREAT videos , editing and your audio is aamazing. Diana
Yeah finding targets is a challenge. What mount do you use?
@@kamilkp I will be using a new small mount scientific explorer Exos , I have a Skywatcher EQ6-R. I also watched your video on the optolong l extreme and will be adding this too. I guess it wil be even darker.
If you have a computerized GOTO mount then pointing shouldn’t be a problem. Just use the GOTO feature or better yet, connect to a computer and use plate solving
@@kamilkp That's a great idea. I thought I need new readers LOL! It is really hard to see, and wanted to ask someone because the dedicated camera is a different deal. Thank you so much for your time, and I am watching all of your videos, it is so pleasant to get good information and great production! Your lighting is really good too, you will see me around! Diana
Hello Kamil, nice video. Did you try a day-to-night timelapse with the astro-mod camera?
Excellent video!
Thanks for this video,
So Which custom WB (1,2,3 ) do you choose for mod camera at night shooting?
Thanks
Thank you for the video. Do you need to calibrate back if we want to do astrophotography?
No
@@kamilkp thank you ☺️
Thanks!
Well thought... But I was wondering, to make the process even easier, if you also could, rather than adjust the WB with the 3 sd card pics all the time, assign instead C1, C2 and C3 to the same common general settings, but each one with its own WB preset from your 3 W.Balanced pics.
Unless you would need the Custom Functions C1 to C3 for something else, it would be much quicker for just the WB switch, no ?
And should the camera be unable to memorize 3 different custom white balance settings, well, then each of these setting should have a corresponding WB temperature, which can then be assign to each custom function instead, no ?
Any insight welcome...
great video but the kit you link cost more than my camera .......
Awesome video! What white balance did you used when taking the grey card photos?
I used the built-in daylight mode but it doesn’t really matter. Could be shot with any WB
@@kamilkp Thank w much I enjoy your channel
Hey Kamil! Great video as usual. I do have a quick question. What WB do you use to minimize the reddish tinge in the night astrophotography? I want to capture the Ha emissions but don’t want the entire photo to have a reddish tinge. Thanks.
I just use this „custom daylight” setting pretty much all the time - including actual nighttime photography
@@kamilkp thanks so much. So should I shoot a gray card or white card and use that as reference WB? Would I still be able to capture the bright red Ha emissions in the nebulae and galaxies and Milky Way?
Also, I don’t have the color card you used. Can I simply use a white paper or a white card? Can you kindly post a link where I can purchase that color chart that you used in your video? Thanks as always.
A white sheet of paper should do it. But better to have a pile of them because a single sheet might not be 100% opaque
@@kamilkp ok. Will do that. Then basically go to the WB settings and choose that image as the reference, correct? And that would eliminate the excess reds in the night images (and day ones) but will not affect the Ha emission reds, right? Thank you sooo much
It’s just white BALANCE. Doesn’t affect the light that you collect. It’s not a filter
Could edit the colours in gimp after easily instead? I have to document all of my rocks fossils and minerals which would be over 500 so would take a really long time i guess
@kamil pekala
what white balance settings are you using for astrophoto , with a modded camera ?
Usually my „custom tungsten” or „custom daylight”
Hey Kamil. Where did u get yor Canon R modified? An what kin off modification did u get?
/Cheers
IR-cut filter removal only. I got a Polish expert do it: Michał Kałużny
Hi Kamil! Can i take a photo with my non modded dslr and save it on my camera before i mod my dslr and after the mod use the same photo for custom WB?
No, that wouldn’t make sense. You need to have those color shifts in the RAW used for custom WB so that the camera can correct for them
Could you use an ir cut filter to bring it back, specifically the one you can put in the body between kens and camera?
Yes. It’s called an OWB filter. Mostly useful if you have a full spectrum mod
much cheaper getting the filter than the 2 products used in the video, though you could do without them, would require trial and error
Can you apply a custom WB to an image after you have taken it, using DPP for example?
If you shoot in RAW then yes. Altough you’d probably have to play around with Temperature and Tint sliders yourself
@@kamilkp thanks. I think it's possible to set up custom WB profiles in DPP but I've never tried it. I might be getting confused with pictures styles.
Hi Kamil,
What WB was set on the camera itself for each shot?
When I was shooting the gray card? I had it at daylight but it doesn’t matter which one you use for that
@@kamilkp ok great, thanks mate!
Why not just screw a IR cut filter to the filter thread of the lens?
Did you know you can ruin a colour checker passport by touching the swatches with your fingers ?
Yes, as a previous directory of photography for an Australian feature film, the fingers on the colour swatches made me cringe. We used ColorCheckers extensively, and if that happened with someone leaving skin grease on it, it would be thrown away and replaced.