This video is total class and I've learned something new which I'm going to try out myself. Haven't seen this kind of video on UA-cam. The centre of our milky way galaxy is barely visible here in scotland and I've got to travel further south to see it. So many deep sky objects that is on my target list. I should also try this with a smartphone too. Knowing what's in the milky way before photographing gives you greater knowledge of these objects and knowing what they are and putting them in shots. Mars has been bright lately and one day we may find life there as we are getting closer to finding it. Thanks for sharing this video and I'm looking forward to next video. Our solar system could have many life types and Europa this moon could be teaming with life in that oceon or how about the clouds covering Venus as a gas has been found there so who knows. Titan will one day warm up when our sun becomes alot brighter and hotter when the sun is about a thousand times brighter and titan will warm up and life will start there. Most scientists believe Comets could have hit earth and carried life onto earth. Comets has so many clues to the formation of the solar system and they come from the Oort cloud which is about 2 light years away. Comets are the building blocks of life and the early formation of our solar system when our sun was still forming into a star! Life will find a way!!!
Very nice video. Great work man. I only have one question. Since we are tracking, and the tracker will rotate, let’s say each exposure is 2 minutes. That will throw the balance level out completely. Do we level the camera after every exposure or just do one single sweep?
You can get the accessories that I mentioned in the video here: ► amzn.to/3d3iASZ - my red/white LED flashlight ► amzn.to/34uDhmX - 1/4" to 3/8" screw adapter ► amzn.to/2SVP09d - Benro IB0 ballhead ► amzn.to/2SX49Hj - Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer tracking mount ► amzn.to/34tbcfZ - LAWOA 15mm f/4 MACRO lens
great work Kamil! Have you tried doing several photo's at at each position, stacking them to reduce noise and then stitching them together. What issues could arise? Cheers
It’s definitely possible. But when you stitch a panorama the noise gets physically smaller to the point where it’s not noticable. Currenty I’m doing untracked panos with ISO 6400 - one shot per panel and they look amazing
Great channel. I watched your video on correct wb and LP removal. Roger Clark right? I was nodding all the way through it. I get alot of why is it so orange questions ha ha.
@@kamilkp i am sometkmes getting a weird problem in PS doing this though the histogram keeps showing me the land even although its not selected very annoying it is.
Aloha Kamil. Mahalo for your great videos - learn something everytime I watch. I just purchased the Sky Watcher Star Adventurer 2i and was disappointed that it did not come with the snap cable or shutter release cable - probably because there as so many camera options. I happen to shoot with an EOS R and would like to find out where can I locate and purchase the correct cable? Sky Watcher support was no help and they only offer the cable for the Canon 5D, and could not verify if that cable works with the EOS R. Since you shoot with the EOS R, can you direct me where to buy this cable? Thanks and take care. Mahalo and Aloha!
It’s just a micro-jack to micro-jack (2,5mm cable). Those are however surprisingly hard to get at least in Europe so what I did was I got a micro-jack to mini-jack cable and then a mini-jack to micro-jack adapter. Works like a charm
Thanks a lot for this tutorial... one part wasn't clear though - when you use tracker for the pano, do you reset the tracker to initial position after each exposure?
I am planning a weekend camping rip to a remote location specifically to shoot the Milkyway pano with my iOptron tracker. I had been wondering about whether to re-level the ball head base at the start of each section of the pano, but if I understand you correctly, you're saying I can just do the pano and allow the plane of the ball head mount to rotate as the tracker rotates? I have a couple questions (which might be answered in the second video but I'll ask just in case): 1. Would it hurt (or would it help) to re-level the ball head at the start of each section of the pano if the relabeling can be done quickly? 2. Assuming the Milky Way core is to the south and arches across the sky, setting in the north, should I start the pan aiming north, then work towards the right to the south (where the core will be rising) or should I start at the south, where the core is and pan to the left, and end shooting to the north?
Nice clear explanation. One question: how long an exposure can you get away with, assuming that if the core is close to the horizon and setting, that you start at the right side where the core is. Below someone mentions 2 minutes as a hypothetical time and you seemed to be OK with that. Do you typically do much more or less than that? Thanks. I just got an MSM tracker and will be using it a lot starting end of Feb.
I love your tutorials man, another banger! I personally use a RRS pano head for tracked Milky Way panos since it makes for easier balance *(for me personally) and corrects for parallax, but I really enjoy this alternative too.
Thx Kamil, once again excellent and I love your work. I’m guessing it not necessary but I can’t recall you mentioning polar alignment using this technique is polar alignment required? Cheers 🍺
Yes polar alignment is always required but since you’re shooting with very wide lenses - the polar alignment doesn’t need to be super precise - rough one will do!
Hi Kamil, I just come back to see this video again. As the camera has moved due to the tracker , we can level it back up .. How often do we have the level the camera back up while we are shooting? Every single shot? Or Once a row ? Thanks
Great video, Kamil! I just have one question: How can I avoid the parallax effect when tracking the MW with 50mm and 135mm lenses? Thank you very much!
Awesome video really. I was searching for something like this and indeed your video is the only one i found. Quick question. I know that the polar alignment doesn't need to be extremely accurate especially at wide angle shot,s but is there any chance that during the movement of the camera on the ballhead for the polar alignment to fail enough to ruin the whole process ?
Thanks! I don’t think you can ruin your PA enough by rotating the ballhead. You’d have to bump into a leg of the tripod when walking towards it - which can happen when it’s dark haha so be careful. Did you see part 2 of this video - about post-processing?
Well it wouldn’t help much. In order for the Dec axis to be perpendicular to the horizon you’d need to shoot at the equator. In essence the Dec bracked just moves your mounting platform by 90 degrees.
@@kamilkp thanks for reply and im new to astrophotography I've just bought the star adventurer pro kit what I mean is with no ballhead can I use it the way it is with the L bracket sorry not the dec bracket. It seems I can point the camera which ever way I like when it's balanced is this still true for a milky way pano. New subscriber too as I've watched a few of your videos and has given me plenty of info
Kamil, as always love your videos. Had a question: In the sky adventurer there is a mode called Time lapse and the mount needs to be turned completely to one side and it will do a 180 degree sweep clockwise. Would you advise using that at all?
In standard firmware the only difference between the Timelapse position and N is the rate of shutter releasing via the SNAP port. What I would recommend is to upgrade to the Advanced Firmware - I just posted a video about it
Excellent video!!! I’m taking a trip in June to bortle 2 for Milky Way photography and have been looking for a video like this and you nailed it!!! How does it affect your balancing when you set your rig up with two ball heads? Are you using a counter weight? Subscribed!
EXCEKENTE video Kamil, por favor regalenos la configuracion de la rotula para hacer las tomas y el arco lo logra en postproduccion ???? camera raw de fotoshop?, muchas gracias por anticipado
So, do I rotate the RA back before moving to the next frame of the panorama or do I just turn it, even tho that means the rotation plane is not level anymore?
@@kamilkp Say I need 15 Minutes per frame, wouldn't that then create significant steps between each frame, eventually leaving a hole in the lower part on the side framed last if I didn't rotate it back? Or am I starting to overthink things now? :D Thanks for the reply btw, not that common anymore on UA-cam nowadays and very much appreciated~
Thanks! Well if you have that big of a step and you rollback RA each time you will end op with a panorama of the sky looking like a tooth saw. You will have to crop out a lot of fill with content-aware fill. I’d not roll it back
@@kamilkp Oh yeah, that also makes sense. I guess I'll just try both variants just to see how things turn out either way, but I like your version more now that I think about it. Thanks for the help! :-)
OK I am totally confused! You are using a tracker and a manual sweep? So what is the tracker doing. Why don't you set the RA axis vertical and let the tracker do the sweep? OR if you are using the RA at an angle so it's doing sidereal then you need to polar align the RA axis. Right?
Great video as always. Just started in astrophotography this Summer and your videos have been really helpful. You do a great job of explaining some of these subjects that can be difficult to understand. Question: Have you released Part 2? I can't seem to find it. Thanks Again
Great tutorial. When turning the second ball head in order to take the different pictures of the milky way, doesn't that cause motion (blur) as the star adventurer is also turning (as I haven't one yet, I don't know at what speed it turns, hence my question)?
It rotates at just the right speed to match the movement of the stars. I don’t rotate the ballhead during the exposure. I rotate it between them so it doesn’t cause any issues whatsoever!
Great set of videos Kamil. As others have said, you provide a great deal of information so thank you. I have a question though. If you have an autoguider attached to your camera, is that going to have any effect on the photographs? (I'm new to astrophotography). Thanks again.
@@kamilkp thanks. If I may ask one more. The correct steps: 1. Turn on autoguider 2. Focus camera for the first photo 3. Set camera on settings. 4. Take photo 5. Manually move camera the number of degrees so there is a 1/3 overlap of taken photo. 6. Start over.
Dosłownie kilka dni temu szukałem informacji jak zrobić panoramę drogi mlecznej. Wychodzi na to, że w tematyce astro z przyjemnością oglądam filmy jedynie dwóch youtuberów Petera Zelinka i Kamila Pekala.
The issue at 11:48 - rotation & plane being out of synch - can be solved by using an L-Bracket on your camera, and not laying the camera over via the ball head. Laying the camera over is a rather amateur move. You are going all this way to show "Pro Tips", and you mess it up with an amateur move. An L-bracket is inexpensive.
Hello I'll give you a suggestion! All of what you provide is useful and useful, but what if the explanation was during filming and work, the theoretical and practical would be more useful. Greetings to you
Hi Kamil, I just come back to see this video again. As the camera has moved due to the tracker , we have to level it back up . How often do we have the level the camera back up while we are shooting? Every single shot? Or Once a row ? Thanks
Watch part 2 here: ua-cam.com/video/sLhpHstryEc/v-deo.html
I have a iOptron Start Guider and this is exactly what I needed.
Came here from reddit . Awesome work man 🔥 subbed :)
Thanks! 😁
This is really cool, definitely something I'll be incorporating.
Yes Kamil, it looks pretty awesome ;) thanks for this video !
Such an under rated channel, I've learned a vast majority regarding star trackers due to you, thanks Kamil 👍
Thank you! I’m glad to hear that 🙂
I agree and very easy to listen to sounds a bit like Chekov from Star Trek lol
Excellent work!
Thank you...keep up the videos on Skytracker...❤️🌹🔭
Another informative video- thanks alot -lovn ur videos
Thanks 😊
This video is total class and I've learned something new which I'm going to try out myself. Haven't seen this kind of video on UA-cam. The centre of our milky way galaxy is barely visible here in scotland and I've got to travel further south to see it. So many deep sky objects that is on my target list. I should also try this with a smartphone too. Knowing what's in the milky way before photographing gives you greater knowledge of these objects and knowing what they are and putting them in shots. Mars has been bright lately and one day we may find life there as we are getting closer to finding it. Thanks for sharing this video and I'm looking forward to next video. Our solar system could have many life types and Europa this moon could be teaming with life in that oceon or how about the clouds covering Venus as a gas has been found there so who knows. Titan will one day warm up when our sun becomes alot brighter and hotter when the sun is about a thousand times brighter and titan will warm up and life will start there. Most scientists believe Comets could have hit earth and carried life onto earth. Comets has so many clues to the formation of the solar system and they come from the Oort cloud which is about 2 light years away. Comets are the building blocks of life and the early formation of our solar system when our sun was still forming into a star! Life will find a way!!!
Very nice video. Great work man. I only have one question. Since we are tracking, and the tracker will rotate, let’s say each exposure is 2 minutes. That will throw the balance level out completely. Do we level the camera after every exposure or just do one single sweep?
I did one sweep. But if you do more than one sweep you can re-level it - sure. It should work either wasy
nice video kamil keep it up !!!!!
Thank you for this video...well done.
You can get the accessories that I mentioned in the video here:
► amzn.to/3d3iASZ - my red/white LED flashlight
► amzn.to/34uDhmX - 1/4" to 3/8" screw adapter
► amzn.to/2SVP09d - Benro IB0 ballhead
► amzn.to/2SX49Hj - Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer tracking mount
► amzn.to/34tbcfZ - LAWOA 15mm f/4 MACRO lens
great work Kamil! Have you tried doing several photo's at at each position, stacking them to reduce noise and then stitching them together. What issues could arise? Cheers
It’s definitely possible. But when you stitch a panorama the noise gets physically smaller to the point where it’s not noticable. Currenty I’m doing untracked panos with ISO 6400 - one shot per panel and they look amazing
Awesome video! Kamil when you overlap your pano shots for 50% plus. Does aberration coma and astigmatism go away?
Great channel. I watched your video on correct wb and LP removal. Roger Clark right? I was nodding all the way through it. I get alot of why is it so orange questions ha ha.
Haha yeah! Thsnks Steven, I’m glad you liked it!
@@kamilkp i am sometkmes getting a weird problem in PS doing this though the histogram keeps showing me the land even although its not selected very annoying it is.
Nice! Cant wait for the new season to start!
Aloha Kamil. Mahalo for your great videos - learn something everytime I watch. I just purchased the Sky Watcher Star Adventurer 2i and was disappointed that it did not come with the snap cable or shutter release cable - probably because there as so many camera options. I happen to shoot with an EOS R and would like to find out where can I locate and purchase the correct cable? Sky Watcher support was no help and they only offer the cable for the Canon 5D, and could not verify if that cable works with the EOS R. Since you shoot with the EOS R, can you direct me where to buy this cable? Thanks and take care. Mahalo and Aloha!
It’s just a micro-jack to micro-jack (2,5mm cable). Those are however surprisingly hard to get at least in Europe so what I did was I got a micro-jack to mini-jack cable and then a mini-jack to micro-jack adapter. Works like a charm
@@kamilkp Thanks Kamil. I believe my intervalometer has the same cable - I'll try that and see if it works. Mahalo!
Thanks a lot for this tutorial... one part wasn't clear though - when you use tracker for the pano, do you reset the tracker to initial position after each exposure?
No I don’t. If you shoot more rows then you might need to though
I am planning a weekend camping rip to a remote location specifically to shoot the Milkyway pano with my iOptron tracker. I had been wondering about whether to re-level the ball head base at the start of each section of the pano, but if I understand you correctly, you're saying I can just do the pano and allow the plane of the ball head mount to rotate as the tracker rotates? I have a couple questions (which might be answered in the second video but I'll ask just in case):
1. Would it hurt (or would it help) to re-level the ball head at the start of each section of the pano if the relabeling can be done quickly?
2. Assuming the Milky Way core is to the south and arches across the sky, setting in the north, should I start the pan aiming north, then work towards the right to the south (where the core will be rising) or should I start at the south, where the core is and pan to the left, and end shooting to the north?
Nice clear explanation. One question: how long an exposure can you get away with, assuming that if the core is close to the horizon and setting, that you start at the right side where the core is. Below someone mentions 2 minutes as a hypothetical time and you seemed to be OK with that. Do you typically do much more or less than that? Thanks. I just got an MSM tracker and will be using it a lot starting end of Feb.
I love your tutorials man, another banger! I personally use a RRS pano head for tracked Milky Way panos since it makes for easier balance *(for me personally) and corrects for parallax, but I really enjoy this alternative too.
Thks Kamil !
Another fine video Kamil! Thank you!
Thx Kamil, once again excellent and I love your work. I’m guessing it not necessary but I can’t recall you mentioning polar alignment using this technique is polar alignment required? Cheers 🍺
Yes polar alignment is always required but since you’re shooting with very wide lenses - the polar alignment doesn’t need to be super precise - rough one will do!
Kamil Pekala Thx buddy this is all new for me, I’m finding your info relevant to me and your methods easy to follow, bring on pt 2 cheers 🍺
Hi Kamil,
I just come back to see this video again.
As the camera has moved due to the tracker , we can level it back up ..
How often do we have the level the camera back up while we are shooting?
Every single shot? Or Once a row ?
Thanks
I think once per row should be enough
Great video, Kamil! I just have one question: How can I avoid the parallax effect when tracking the MW with 50mm and 135mm lenses? Thank you very much!
Man, I was just wishing for this and here it is! Thanks!
Make sure to also check out part 2 about editing: ua-cam.com/video/sLhpHstryEc/v-deo.html
Awesome video really. I was searching for something like this and indeed your video is the only one i found. Quick question. I know that the polar alignment doesn't need to be extremely accurate especially at wide angle shot,s but is there any chance that during the movement of the camera on the ballhead for the polar alignment to fail enough to ruin the whole process ?
Thanks! I don’t think you can ruin your PA enough by rotating the ballhead. You’d have to bump into a leg of the tripod when walking towards it - which can happen when it’s dark haha so be careful. Did you see part 2 of this video - about post-processing?
@@kamilkp Was kinda late when i finished this one so I decided to watch it tonight after work :D. Thank you very much and keep up the great content.
Great video. Been waiting for a milky way tracked tutorial for ages. Is it more difficult to use just the dec bracket instead of ballheads?
Well it wouldn’t help much. In order for the Dec axis to be perpendicular to the horizon you’d need to shoot at the equator. In essence the Dec bracked just moves your mounting platform by 90 degrees.
@@kamilkp thanks for reply and im new to astrophotography I've just bought the star adventurer pro kit what I mean is with no ballhead can I use it the way it is with the L bracket sorry not the dec bracket. It seems I can point the camera which ever way I like when it's balanced is this still true for a milky way pano. New subscriber too as I've watched a few of your videos and has given me plenty of info
Kamil, as always love your videos. Had a question: In the sky adventurer there is a mode called Time lapse and the mount needs to be turned completely to one side and it will do a 180 degree sweep clockwise. Would you advise using that at all?
In standard firmware the only difference between the Timelapse position and N is the rate of shutter releasing via the SNAP port. What I would recommend is to upgrade to the Advanced Firmware - I just posted a video about it
@@kamilkp will do. thanks for the quick response Kamil.
This is awesome!! Do you have to focus each time you move the camera? This part always gets me confused. Thank! :)
I’m glad you liked it! No, you don’t need to focus each time - focus once and then just be careful not to touch the focus ring on the lens 😉
Excellent video!!! I’m taking a trip in June to bortle 2 for Milky Way photography and have been looking for a video like this and you nailed it!!! How does it affect your balancing when you set your rig up with two ball heads? Are you using a counter weight? Subscribed!
EXCEKENTE video Kamil, por favor regalenos la configuracion de la rotula para hacer las tomas y el arco lo logra en postproduccion ???? camera raw de fotoshop?, muchas gracias por anticipado
Like I said - *post production* process will be covered in detail in *part 2* -stay tuned
How long an exposure can you get away with? Say, if you plan on doing 7 panels?
Be curious to see how a smarter tracker changes this workflow(benro)
Completely
@@kamilkp Cool! I just got my Benro in and have been watching a lot of vids on it trying to come up with some things to try first.
So, do I rotate the RA back before moving to the next frame of the panorama or do I just turn it, even tho that means the rotation plane is not level anymore?
You can do it both ways. I didn’t rollback RA for each shot. You need to replace the foreground in post anyway
@@kamilkp Say I need 15 Minutes per frame, wouldn't that then create significant steps between each frame, eventually leaving a hole in the lower part on the side framed last if I didn't rotate it back? Or am I starting to overthink things now? :D
Thanks for the reply btw, not that common anymore on UA-cam nowadays and very much appreciated~
Thanks! Well if you have that big of a step and you rollback RA each time you will end op with a panorama of the sky looking like a tooth saw. You will have to crop out a lot of fill with content-aware fill. I’d not roll it back
@@kamilkp Oh yeah, that also makes sense. I guess I'll just try both variants just to see how things turn out either way, but I like your version more now that I think about it. Thanks for the help! :-)
I was curious why not use an L bracket for your portrait modes
Didn’t have one at that time but I have now and love it. Would definitely recommend it for such panos!
OK I am totally confused! You are using a tracker and a manual sweep? So what is the tracker doing. Why don't you set the RA axis vertical and let the tracker do the sweep? OR if you are using the RA at an angle so it's doing sidereal then you need to polar align the RA axis. Right?
Great video as always. Just started in astrophotography this Summer and your videos have been really helpful. You do a great job of explaining some of these subjects that can be difficult to understand.
Question: Have you released Part 2? I can't seem to find it.
Thanks Again
I literally filmed it yesterday! It will be out in the upcoming week 😉
Great tutorial.
When turning the second ball head in order to take the different pictures of the milky way, doesn't that cause motion (blur) as the star adventurer is also turning (as I haven't one yet, I don't know at what speed it turns, hence my question)?
It rotates at just the right speed to match the movement of the stars. I don’t rotate the ballhead during the exposure. I rotate it between them so it doesn’t cause any issues whatsoever!
@@kamilkp Thanks for your reaction. So you switch the Star Adventurer off and on between each exposure ?
I could but it doesn’t matter. I just had it tracking continuously so that the sky exposured would stitch easily
Is it possible to shoot the milky way pano without a star tracker?
Yes
@UCMHxxdu-EmqwA9YxxObMAPA Do you have a link to a video on how to do that?
Great set of videos Kamil. As others have said, you provide a great deal of information so thank you. I have a question though. If you have an autoguider attached to your camera, is that going to have any effect on the photographs? (I'm new to astrophotography). Thanks again.
Thanks Geoff! Yes, the autoguider allows you to take even longer exposures which means lower ISO and cleaner images!
@@kamilkp thanks. If I may ask one more. The correct steps:
1. Turn on autoguider
2. Focus camera for the first photo
3. Set camera on settings.
4. Take photo
5. Manually move camera the number of degrees so there is a 1/3 overlap of taken photo.
6. Start over.
Yeah pretty much. You’d have to reset and recalibrate guiding every time you change the framing.
@@kamilkp thanks very much.
Turn on subtitles. Thank you
Dosłownie kilka dni temu szukałem informacji jak zrobić panoramę drogi mlecznej. Wychodzi na to, że w tematyce astro z przyjemnością oglądam filmy jedynie dwóch youtuberów Petera Zelinka i Kamila Pekala.
Miło mi to słyszeć! Dzięki za komentarz 😊
The issue at 11:48 - rotation & plane being out of synch - can be solved by using an L-Bracket on your camera, and not laying the camera over via the ball head. Laying the camera over is a rather amateur move. You are going all this way to show "Pro Tips", and you mess it up with an amateur move. An L-bracket is inexpensive.
Can’t you just have you’re mount pointing staring up then it would move east to west doing a panoramic shot ??
Hello
I'll give you a suggestion!
All of what you provide is useful and useful, but what if the explanation was during filming and work, the theoretical and practical would be more useful.
Greetings to you
I have one video like that, but it’s hard to film in pitch darkness haha. Check it out: ua-cam.com/video/-RalZ1vOX1I/v-deo.html
Hi Kamil,
I just come back to see this video again.
As the camera has moved due to the tracker , we have to level it back up .
How often do we have the level the camera back up while we are shooting?
Every single shot? Or Once a row ?
Thanks