It's crazy how many of the same keys we have. I feel the same way about the TP-III. It's my go-to portable key. Once it's adjusted and locked in, it's amazing. 73
Yeah, it's a really nice key. I did just get an actual N0SA key yesterday (one actually made by Larry), and that one might give the TP-III a run for its money. I'll see what I think after I use it for its first activation. Thanks for watching!
@@EvanK2EJT I remember emailing him a long ways back asking if he could make one. I believe this was just prior to CWMorse taking over. It never panned out. I still want to get one. They look pretty awesome. I love the videos, man. Keep up the great work.
I think you'd do well with a 3d printer. I'm pretty sure you would be the one person to combine all the features you love about your gear into one awesome piece. I'm just now getting into cw, and I look forward to the gear I'll be printing. The bug got me when an Elmer had me solder the lines on a western union key he had from the early 1900s. It was a field day, and I'm the only one who brings repair gear, but It blew my mind that he would let me do it. I'm the only one in the club who doesn't need glasses, tho. 😆🤙🏾
Ahh, the N0SA paddle - they look neat, but there’s a big design flaw. The left paddle on the first one I had would make intermittent contact. Now on my replacement the right paddle makes intermittent contact. The problem is that the electrical connection is made through the pivot point on the paddles. I’ve thought about modifying mine so the aluminum bars are properly connected electrically. I’ve also thought about dropping it into the trash can because it’s so frustrating trying to use it. Lol.
I own the Bamakey TP2 and can really recommend it. The build quality is amazing, once adjusted it is really smooth thanks to the magnet springs. Well worth the money. (but still quite small for stationary use)
I have same paddle, I have it on a small piece steel for desk operation, field work it’s spot on, tried others but just sometimes you find a paddle that feels part of your hand. Am left handed I find the right hand operation that you are, strange to me. Good comparison video, as you said it’s up to you.
that W1SFR Fat Boy is the only other key I want besides my Vibro-Keyer. I have the N6ARA Tiny Key for going outside with but could probably use something a 3D printed that's a bit larger, and reserve it for backups.
I would like to see Markus from BaMaTech make the TP-III with larger levers, similar to the size of the CW Morse N0SA paddle. That would be the best of both worlds. The paddle is incredible aside from the size of the levers. Furthermore, I'd really love for him to make a single lever TP-III version, also with a lever size similar to the N0SA.
Agreed on both points! That's my only complaint with that key. Aside from the size of the paddles it's amazing. I just got an actual N0SA key Thursday (not the cwmorse version, but straight from Larry). I'm taking that out today to put it through its paces. I think this might be THE field key, but I haven't used it in anger yet LOL.
I have an American Morse PortaPaddle II that gives me the same problem you describe with the N0SA. I've only noticed it with the Mountain Topper. It's infuriating. Edit: I just ran through all of the electrical contact points, screws, etc on the Porta Paddle and found that sometimes I'd get over 200 ohms on the dah side. I took everything apart, greased every screw and more importantly every pivot point with Ox Gard grease. There are a few moving parts in the electrical path and they weren't making a good connection. Now I get a resistance of 1-2 ohms consistently. I wouldn't be surprised if that's the problem people are having with the N0SA paddles. A few quick measurements will tell you if it's making a good connection or not, and be sure to press the paddles from various angles. That made a big difference for me, and I could get it to change from 2 ohms to 200 ohms by pressing higher or lower on the paddle. I can only assume that the Mountain Topper is not as tolerant of poor continuity as other radios, which is why that's where it shows up. This weekend I'll test it out again in the field and see if it fixed it or not. Fingers crossed.
Awesome tip, and good on you for finding that! I did something very similar with my cwmorse N0SA key, and now it works fine. Hopefully your key does as well. Thanks for watching!
Sadly, it didn't really help. I couldn't send an R, L, or F without extra dits thrown in. I came home and ordered a BaMaKey-TP-III. Life's too short.@@EvanK2EJT
I'm interested in getting a TP-II as well. I have the feeling that for a more stationary setup like, say, a picnic table, the TP-II would be a better key than the TP-III. My one complaint about the TP-III is the tiny size of the paddles, and the TP-II would solve that issue.
@@EvanK2EJT I am just starting my CW journey so I am sure it will be the first of many keys that I will buy. I have a MJF 564 key, but I am not a fan of it. The TP-II, just spoke to me when I first saw it. I had a hard time finding video to see it in action and I searched on TP-2 instead and found a handful where I could see the key in action.
@@EvanK2EJT Thanks. I need to order some. Still waiting on my BaMaTech TP3 but the Begali Simplex Pro showed up today. It was stuck in Paris (FedEx) for 2 weeks! Christmas Traffic I’m told! These keys seem to have a way of multiplying hi hi.
i have several of the n0sa paddles.. the first one i bought came with hex head screw contacts... however, CW Morse cheaped out and the next pair i bought came with those stupid round head contacts screws... you can buy the better (IMHO) hex head screws which have a low profile and avoid accidental keying when gripping the paddle: "M3 x 8mm Socket Set Grub Screws Cup Point Stainless Steel 10 Pack with 1.5 mm Hex Key Wrench 8mm Length" - $7 on the s. american river.. 72, bill
Just gotta get my hands on one. It's on my short list. They're expensive, so it'll probably be a little while, but I plan on ordering one this winter. My car will be paid off in November, so that opens up some more disposable income to buy toys with :D
Yeah, they're not the greatest keys out there. They're cheap, and that's why a lot of people use them. There are a lot better keys out there, but generally speaking you're going to pay for them
It's crazy how many of the same keys we have. I feel the same way about the TP-III. It's my go-to portable key. Once it's adjusted and locked in, it's amazing. 73
Yeah, it's a really nice key. I did just get an actual N0SA key yesterday (one actually made by Larry), and that one might give the TP-III a run for its money. I'll see what I think after I use it for its first activation. Thanks for watching!
@@EvanK2EJT I remember emailing him a long ways back asking if he could make one. I believe this was just prior to CWMorse taking over. It never panned out. I still want to get one. They look pretty awesome. I love the videos, man. Keep up the great work.
Thanks for pointing out leaving the 3D printed ones in the car, as mine is sitting out there now 😂
These automatically chapter titles really got me :D Bagawa and BAM-Attack - great! 73 from DL
🤣I didn't even notice that!
Thanks very interesting. Once I get to the right CW level this will be my go to video before activating with CW
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Thanks for such a varied review!
I think you'd do well with a 3d printer. I'm pretty sure you would be the one person to combine all the features you love about your gear into one awesome piece. I'm just now getting into cw, and I look forward to the gear I'll be printing. The bug got me when an Elmer had me solder the lines on a western union key he had from the early 1900s. It was a field day, and I'm the only one who brings repair gear, but It blew my mind that he would let me do it. I'm the only one in the club who doesn't need glasses, tho. 😆🤙🏾
Ahh, the N0SA paddle - they look neat, but there’s a big design flaw. The left paddle on the first one I had would make intermittent contact. Now on my replacement the right paddle makes intermittent contact. The problem is that the electrical connection is made through the pivot point on the paddles. I’ve thought about modifying mine so the aluminum bars are properly connected electrically. I’ve also thought about dropping it into the trash can because it’s so frustrating trying to use it. Lol.
Yeah, mine was hot mess too. It works half way decent now, but I still wouldn't trust it to take out in the field without a backup key
Yeah, I'm very pleased with my Bamatech field key. I'm thinking about picking up one of their bigger ones too Cheers.
I like my BaMaTech so much I bought a second one. I've been eyeing a TP-II as well. Great keys
Thank you!
You did a video as you promised!
👍
Thanks for watching!
This is great! So informative! Thank you!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
I own the Bamakey TP2 and can really recommend it. The build quality is amazing, once adjusted it is really smooth thanks to the magnet springs. Well worth the money. (but still quite small for stationary use)
Agreed. It's an awesome little key!
I wish the TP-II had a removable 3.5mm cable. Still might get it though. Ha.
@@mainetomass99 Agreed
I have same paddle, I have it on a small piece steel for desk operation, field work it’s spot on, tried others but just sometimes you find a paddle that feels part of your hand.
Am left handed I find the right hand operation that you are, strange to me.
Good comparison video, as you said it’s up to you.
That's a wierd looking straight key top right of the desk !! 😉
LOL, I've had lots of people think that's what it was. Based on the comment, I'm guessing you know what it actually is
@@EvanK2EJT Yep ! It can only be used whilst “stationery” ! 🤣🤣🤣
@@nickbrown9757 😂😂
that W1SFR Fat Boy is the only other key I want besides my Vibro-Keyer. I have the N6ARA Tiny Key for going outside with but could probably use something a 3D printed that's a bit larger, and reserve it for backups.
Another awesome video
Thanks man!
0:04 "My name is Evan and I am an addict" ;-)
LOL very true
Very informative. You are gonna make me spend money!
😂 I'm a bad influence
I would like to see Markus from BaMaTech make the TP-III with larger levers, similar to the size of the CW Morse N0SA paddle. That would be the best of both worlds. The paddle is incredible aside from the size of the levers. Furthermore, I'd really love for him to make a single lever TP-III version, also with a lever size similar to the N0SA.
Agreed on both points! That's my only complaint with that key. Aside from the size of the paddles it's amazing. I just got an actual N0SA key Thursday (not the cwmorse version, but straight from Larry). I'm taking that out today to put it through its paces. I think this might be THE field key, but I haven't used it in anger yet LOL.
I have an American Morse PortaPaddle II that gives me the same problem you describe with the N0SA. I've only noticed it with the Mountain Topper. It's infuriating.
Edit: I just ran through all of the electrical contact points, screws, etc on the Porta Paddle and found that sometimes I'd get over 200 ohms on the dah side. I took everything apart, greased every screw and more importantly every pivot point with Ox Gard grease. There are a few moving parts in the electrical path and they weren't making a good connection. Now I get a resistance of 1-2 ohms consistently.
I wouldn't be surprised if that's the problem people are having with the N0SA paddles. A few quick measurements will tell you if it's making a good connection or not, and be sure to press the paddles from various angles. That made a big difference for me, and I could get it to change from 2 ohms to 200 ohms by pressing higher or lower on the paddle.
I can only assume that the Mountain Topper is not as tolerant of poor continuity as other radios, which is why that's where it shows up.
This weekend I'll test it out again in the field and see if it fixed it or not. Fingers crossed.
Awesome tip, and good on you for finding that! I did something very similar with my cwmorse N0SA key, and now it works fine. Hopefully your key does as well. Thanks for watching!
Sadly, it didn't really help. I couldn't send an R, L, or F without extra dits thrown in. I came home and ordered a BaMaKey-TP-III. Life's too short.@@EvanK2EJT
I just bought a TP-II yesterday.
I'm interested in getting a TP-II as well. I have the feeling that for a more stationary setup like, say, a picnic table, the TP-II would be a better key than the TP-III. My one complaint about the TP-III is the tiny size of the paddles, and the TP-II would solve that issue.
@@EvanK2EJT I am just starting my CW journey so I am sure it will be the first of many keys that I will buy. I have a MJF 564 key, but I am not a fan of it. The TP-II, just spoke to me when I first saw it. I had a hard time finding video to see it in action and I searched on TP-2 instead and found a handful where I could see the key in action.
I have the American Morse DCP paddle 2.5 oz attached to a leg mount i made.cost was $59.95
Evan, Great video! Thanks. Now here's a trivial question hi hi. What is the orange cord keeper on the CW Morse SP-4 Paddle? 73
It's a Nite Ize Gear Tie. They're awesome
@@EvanK2EJT Thanks. I need to order some. Still waiting on my BaMaTech TP3 but the Begali Simplex Pro showed up today. It was stuck in Paris (FedEx) for 2 weeks! Christmas Traffic I’m told! These keys seem to have a way of multiplying hi hi.
@@dovetomarc My Begali got stuck in Paris for two weeks too..... In the spring. They're just slow at Charles de Gaulle lol
Are they still selling this kx2 capacitive key? 73!
Unfortunately no, but they do pop up for sale every once in a while.
i have several of the n0sa paddles.. the first one i bought came with hex head screw contacts... however, CW Morse cheaped out and the next pair i bought came with those stupid round head contacts screws... you can buy the better (IMHO) hex head screws which have a low profile and avoid accidental keying when gripping the paddle: "M3 x 8mm Socket Set Grub Screws Cup Point Stainless Steel 10 Pack with 1.5 mm Hex Key Wrench 8mm Length" - $7 on the s. american river.. 72, bill
I have a real N0SA key straight from Larry now. It's MILES better than the cwmorse version.
Evan, I'd love to hear your thoughts on the Penntek TR45L... Either version.. Let's chat about it sometime. DE W4EMB
Just gotta get my hands on one. It's on my short list. They're expensive, so it'll probably be a little while, but I plan on ordering one this winter. My car will be paid off in November, so that opens up some more disposable income to buy toys with :D
What do you think
Of the vibroplex code warrior jr?
I'll be honest, I don't have any personal experience with it, but it looks like a nice, solidly built key.
@@EvanK2EJT got it at a swap meet last Saturday specifically for a field key. Great timing with your video. That TP-III is still on my wish list
Another FB video!
This one beats all the others: USB Type-c DC 5V CW Morse Telegraph Touch Sensitive Automatic Key Module (aliexpress). (Joke)73
🤣
So you like your UR5 better than the begali on the desk? Lol
I do, at least for a shack key I do. I find I send better on it.
@@EvanK2EJT I’ll have to give it a go. They sure have the beauty factor
@@JayN4GO They're insanely nice, regardless of price. It's just a bonus that it cost half as much as the Begali
My CW morse key ended in the junk.
Yeah, they're not the greatest keys out there. They're cheap, and that's why a lot of people use them. There are a lot better keys out there, but generally speaking you're going to pay for them
Mine is about find itself in the trash can.