I'm surprised you are unable to find any 6cyl parts surrounding your state. Everyone doing v8 and LS swaps, I constantly see people giving and throwing away powertrains on Facebook. Seeing you have a repair manual, make sure as most have warned on the forms and online don't over look or assume anything. Something as simple as not dialing in the transmission/belhousing can really be a disappointment and a deterrent to finish when something blows up. Also just a guess but when you towed it home its a automatic reaction for most but don't realize at first it's Park neutral, drive, two, one, reverse and it's just an automatic reaction to drop it down two notches. Due to it having a rear pump it was probably turning the motor over at the same time which is why you think your truck might have been underpowered. Most people don't realize these are really light cars to begin with and only weigh 2800-3500 lb in the first place. As a kid I remember dragging them around the yard with a johndeere 140. Just my opinion but it's still a really good car even with the work and being a 4 door. Classic Enterprises has sheet metal for it (as you probably know already) and for reliability personally I'd still swap in the three speed. My oldest bought a 63 four-door and it's going to need more work than yours, the automatic should still be fine but if anything goes wrong he plans to swap a 3-speed in his also.
Yes! Quite definitely worth saving but that's my opinion because I've got a 64 like I said in the past comment but I was lucky mine didn't need as much as yours but in all honesty if you are able to weld with a little welder because it's a body on frame the floor is nothing to do it's just take it out drop it back in you're done okay it may be bigger than I say it is but to me x body man retired nothing really big the rocker panels the rear quarter panels which do unbolt front fenders look good engine and Bay looks good everything looks good except for the floor and maybe that little spot on the left door at the bottom but in my opinion these cars are rare especially 64 and up 64 was the last year at least the beginning of 64 it was the last year of the american-made ones yours looks to me like it's made in Canada in Hamilton not far from where I am Toronto but yes don't give up you've gone so far you might as well complete it best of luck and if you want to talk to me just message me back if you have any questions
I have a 1964 Studebaker with the original 289 V8 and all the parts that I ever got are in the United States I'm in Canada it's a place called Studebaker international try them they've got an amazing catalog they've moved their company to another state I believe and there catalog now is amazing I needed a new speedometer and got NOS stock from them for like $130 everything I ever got was from them and the parts fit correctly I even found out I have the 11-in rear-finned drums from the Avanti whoever ordered my car thank you very much hope this helps
Good video, it really illustrates the trials and tribulations, as well as the high points, of owning an old car! I would say work on this one to get it running and driving, then fix things as you drive. The floors don't have to be perfect to have fun in the car, patch over them best you can right now, and if you keep the car long term then do a more permanent repair. The crossmember, is not too hard to get out. The part number you need is 1547767, and was used in all '59-'62 6-cylinder Larks, in all '63-'64 manual transmission Larks, and in all '59-'64 V8 Larks. (Note, Right Hand Control Larks, and also Lark convertibles, did not use this p/n crossmember, but doubt you would run up on one of those. 🙂) This should not be too hard to find especially in a dry state like Texas. Consider putting the word out on the Studebaker Facebook sites and on the SDC Forum that you are looking for a crossmember. If the engine was running ok, you may even want to postpone a full rebuild on that, maybe put it back together with new gaskets and a valve job?
And brakes! Brakes would be good 👍 All this talk about running and driving and getting it to go but no talk about getting it to woah 😉 Nick, I don't remember, I know you had a driveshaft, I remember seeing it, but would that have been for the manual trans or the auto, or do they differ, I would assume they would or did you grab one off that parts car? That's what I'm failing to remember. I don't recall that being mentioned in this video either?
I have the same car, runs and drives, and I use it as a daily summer driver. It's a lot of fun, but lately, I've had some problems in the electrical areas. The wipers stopped working, the passenger blower fan doesn't work, and the headlights don't work (after I tried to replace some of the burnt bulbs-they all stopped working). Do you know where the location of the fuses are on the car?
@@bigbenjit I figured out the issue with the wipers, but not the other blower fan or the lights. The switch has a breaker in it, and I replaced the switch. I also oiled up the mechanism in the wiper motors.
Keep your good mood! By the time this car is a sound good comfortable reliable driver, you still have not reached the price of an Audi 2-year service!
I'm surprised you are unable to find any 6cyl parts surrounding your state. Everyone doing v8 and LS swaps, I constantly see people giving and throwing away powertrains on Facebook.
Seeing you have a repair manual, make sure as most have warned on the forms and online don't over look or assume anything. Something as simple as not dialing in the transmission/belhousing can really be a disappointment and a deterrent to finish when something blows up.
Also just a guess but when you towed it home its a automatic reaction for most but don't realize at first it's Park neutral, drive, two, one, reverse and it's just an automatic reaction to drop it down two notches. Due to it having a rear pump it was probably turning the motor over at the same time which is why you think your truck might have been underpowered. Most people don't realize these are really light cars to begin with and only weigh 2800-3500 lb in the first place. As a kid I remember dragging them around the yard with a johndeere 140.
Just my opinion but it's still a really good car even with the work and being a 4 door. Classic Enterprises has sheet metal for it (as you probably know already) and for reliability personally I'd still swap in the three speed. My oldest bought a 63 four-door and it's going to need more work than yours, the automatic should still be fine but if anything goes wrong he plans to swap a 3-speed in his also.
Yes! Quite definitely worth saving but that's my opinion because I've got a 64 like I said in the past comment but I was lucky mine didn't need as much as yours but in all honesty if you are able to weld with a little welder because it's a body on frame the floor is nothing to do it's just take it out drop it back in you're done okay it may be bigger than I say it is but to me x body man retired nothing really big the rocker panels the rear quarter panels which do unbolt front fenders look good engine and Bay looks good everything looks good except for the floor and maybe that little spot on the left door at the bottom but in my opinion these cars are rare especially 64 and up 64 was the last year at least the beginning of 64 it was the last year of the american-made ones yours looks to me like it's made in Canada in Hamilton not far from where I am Toronto but yes don't give up you've gone so far you might as well complete it best of luck and if you want to talk to me just message me back if you have any questions
I have a 1964 Studebaker with the original 289 V8 and all the parts that I ever got are in the United States I'm in Canada it's a place called Studebaker international try them they've got an amazing catalog they've moved their company to another state I believe and there catalog now is amazing I needed a new speedometer and got NOS stock from them for like $130 everything I ever got was from them and the parts fit correctly I even found out I have the 11-in rear-finned drums from the Avanti whoever ordered my car thank you very much hope this helps
Good video, it really illustrates the trials and tribulations, as well as the high points, of owning an old car! I would say work on this one to get it running and driving, then fix things as you drive. The floors don't have to be perfect to have fun in the car, patch over them best you can right now, and if you keep the car long term then do a more permanent repair. The crossmember, is not too hard to get out. The part number you need is 1547767, and was used in all '59-'62 6-cylinder Larks, in all '63-'64 manual transmission Larks, and in all '59-'64 V8 Larks. (Note, Right Hand Control Larks, and also Lark convertibles, did not use this p/n crossmember, but doubt you would run up on one of those. 🙂) This should not be too hard to find especially in a dry state like Texas. Consider putting the word out on the Studebaker Facebook sites and on the SDC Forum that you are looking for a crossmember. If the engine was running ok, you may even want to postpone a full rebuild on that, maybe put it back together with new gaskets and a valve job?
It should be a Borg Warner flight-o-matic which uses the same internals as a Ford-o-matic...
And brakes! Brakes would be good 👍 All this talk about running and driving and getting it to go but no talk about getting it to woah 😉
Nick, I don't remember, I know you had a driveshaft, I remember seeing it, but would that have been for the manual trans or the auto, or do they differ, I would assume they would or did you grab one off that parts car? That's what I'm failing to remember. I don't recall that being mentioned in this video either?
I think its cool
I have the same car, runs and drives, and I use it as a daily summer driver. It's a lot of fun, but lately, I've had some problems in the electrical areas. The wipers stopped working, the passenger blower fan doesn't work, and the headlights don't work (after I tried to replace some of the burnt bulbs-they all stopped working). Do you know where the location of the fuses are on the car?
im having same issue on my 66 there are two tube fuses under the dr side dash that arent the problem. did you figure out what it was?
@@bigbenjit I figured out the issue with the wipers, but not the other blower fan or the lights. The switch has a breaker in it, and I replaced the switch. I also oiled up the mechanism in the wiper motors.
Hope the rest of the body is good!