Tonia, I really enjoy these types of video's of yours! I DO WANT, and NEED, to learn about the bust darts, since knitting patterns NEVER include that info (unlike sewing patterns, where it's standard). I love that you show us on your own body, or in actual knitting examples, and explain all of the details. I wish we'd learn a little more about the math when knitting in your own gauge, as I never hit the row gauge...and sometimes it does matter. Thanks for a great video!
I've watched a lot of knitting podcasts but, as far as I can tell, no one has covered how to start a young child off knitting. What size needles work best to start and what size yarn, so they won't get discouraged. Do you start with a square or would that not be exciting for them, though easy. Do you start them holding needles the proper way or just let them drop the right needle, throw the yarn around and make a stitch, which makes for such awful gauge there are holes everywhere. Do you think you could help some of us grannies get our grandchildren (8 &10) to get started the best way?
I've never taught a child to knit so don't have much advice to offer. I suggest starting them off with medium-weight wool and needles appropriate for the yarn. I'd cast on the stitches and just teach the knit stitch first and gauge their interest from there.
I stumbled across your videos when searching for a new source for yarny/knitting information, and I'm so grateful the UA-cam algorithm brought your content into my life! I'm constantly looking for ways to produce a garment with a fabric I like that does not match the pattern gauge, so your this video was really helpful. I have a question that might fit into a future video - how would you adjust a pattern for someone who has a bit of a belly and a flat chest, especially when the person's frame (shoulders in particular) is more narrow? I'm thinking specifically for a circular yolk or top-down raglan sweater. Thanks for your nerdy content!
Welcome! I'm so glad you found the channel. 😁 No matter what adjustments I need to make I always plan to knit a size for my frame (shoulders area) to make sure that's fitting well through the shoulders. Then, in the case you mentioned, I would either use short row shaping for the belly (like I did for my bust - the same shaping works for a larger belly too) OR make more of an A-line shape where I would start increasing right beneath the bust to give me more fabric around the middle.
@@NerdyKnitting thanks for the insight on shaping for a belly! I've tried making the sweaters a bit more A-line, which works well sometimes. I'll look forward to (hopefully) seeing a video about how you add darts in the future. ☺️
Thanks Tonia. I have been doing the same. Not even worrying about getting gauge. Just looking at the fabric and then adjusting . What I am wondering is how to increase the front .Abdomen is bigger than bust You mentioned increasing at the sides. How to you figure out the increases when there is maybe 16 stitch increases. Do you increase over how many rows. I'm not sure if this is making sense. I also notice that when I try on after joining after the armhole depth that it rides up more in the back. Do I add more short rows in the back? Hope this makes sense. Love your podcast.
There are different ways to increase and add fabric. For the A-line shaping for this top, I figured out how many stitches I wanted to add and how many rows I had to do that (basically from the waist to the hip - I figured out approximately how long that area would be and multiplied by my row gauge to see how many rows I had). Then I just spaced out those increases over the number of rows (there are some online knitting calculators that can help figure that part out). And for short rows - yes, I would add them wherever things are 'riding up' to add some extra length in that area.
Thank you so much for sharing your adventures with this project. The end result is great! I appreciate how you explained the logic behind your changes! BTW, I am currently pursuing the MHK certificate program and am at the moment launching into the first few swatches. Excited! :)
@@NerdyKnitting Thank you! I did take the Taming Tension course and learned so much about tension. Corrected my edge stitches tension issues and got some really valuable feedback!
I didn't take that course (I took the basics before I started) but I bet it was a perfect introduction to the course since proper tension is such a huge part of the program. Good luck!
@@KalliBella1 I just noticed that class yesterday and was thinking about taking it myself! I need to learn how to handle to my tension on those edge stitches, and yes, I know there's lots of way of disguising them, but I'd rather learn to do it correctly - like you! Do you feel you got your money's worth? What other tension topics did they discuss? I'm SO curious!
@@DebbieHQ I found the class "Taming Tension" to be extremely helpful. It covers all the areas where a knitter may have tension issues. I highly recommend it!
Certified and master knitter…that’s pretty neat! I had never heard that before. Does that mean you can teach high school or college classes? How does a person receive this? Sorry for all the questions, I have watched your videos a few times and you explain things so well and I had to ask. Thank you.
It just means I've taken a course and received a certificate that demonstrates that I have the ability to teach knitting classes! Here's the course I used - tkga.org/certification-for-knitting-instructors/
Hello! Big question here… What do I do if I'm knitting a top-down raglan where the increases are every other row, my stitch length is perfect but row gauge is too many from the pattern, and at the same time the last row of the yoke ends on an increase as opposed to knitting the rest of the rows to the length before splitting sleeves!? How do I adapt the pattern to be the right yoke length with the right amount of increases? Please tell me that makes sense!
Do you mean you have MORE rounds to the inch than the pattern? To get the depth needed for the yoke, just keep working rounds 'straight' without increasing until the yoke is the depth you need it to be. If it's the opposite and your yoke is too long, you could work some of the increases on the plain rounds to shorten the yoke.
@@NerdyKnittingThanks! Yes, I mean if yoke is too long. You don’t find it makes the raglan seam look wonky when you do this? Is there a specific increase you would use if you’re having to make an increase every row in the same spot?
@@kimmygibbler3984 When I have to make changes to the shaping on a raglan, I like to do it in the last third so those changes sort of hide in the underarm. I think M1L or M1R is pretty invisible and probably a good choice (but it might be a good idea to knit a little swatch to test!).
@@NerdyKnitting Awesome, thanks so much for the help! 😊 I have a math/numbers learning disability (dyscalculia) so I find knitting and crochet so frustrating when I need specific measurements or if I’m trying to figure out gauge! Otherwise, it’s my favorite thing.
![The secrets to getting gauge and knitting perfect swatches [5 common mistakes]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ntK-ICmol2E/mqdefault.jpg)
![The secrets to getting gauge and knitting perfect swatches [5 common mistakes]](/img/tr.png)
Tonia, I really enjoy these types of video's of yours! I DO WANT, and NEED, to learn about the bust darts, since knitting patterns NEVER include that info (unlike sewing patterns, where it's standard).
I love that you show us on your own body, or in actual knitting examples, and explain all of the details. I wish we'd learn a little more about the math when knitting in your own gauge, as I never hit the row gauge...and sometimes it does matter.
Thanks for a great video!
I'm glad you found it helpful!
You are one of my absolute favorite channels.
Aww 🥰 thank you!
Very nice, thank you. The top fits you so well!
Thank you!
Your sweater came out lovely!
Thank you! 😊
That is a lovely color on you
Thank you! 🥰
Awesome! Thank you!
This project turned out great and the color is beautiful on you.
Thank you so much!
Very informative episode. Thank you 💜
Glad it was helpful!
Very lovely work! Thank you for sharing this project and all of the details.
Thank you very much!
I have had to change sizes because of gauge problems. I do it exactly how you described. Thank you.
Wonderful sweater- great colour and fit!
Thank you! 😊
I've watched a lot of knitting podcasts but, as far as I can tell, no one has covered how to start a young child off knitting. What size needles work best to start and what size yarn, so they won't get discouraged. Do you start with a square or would that not be exciting for them, though easy. Do you start them holding needles the proper way or just let them drop the right needle, throw the yarn around and make a stitch, which makes for such awful gauge there are holes everywhere. Do you think you could help some of us grannies get our grandchildren (8 &10) to get started the best way?
I've never taught a child to knit so don't have much advice to offer. I suggest starting them off with medium-weight wool and needles appropriate for the yarn. I'd cast on the stitches and just teach the knit stitch first and gauge their interest from there.
I stumbled across your videos when searching for a new source for yarny/knitting information, and I'm so grateful the UA-cam algorithm brought your content into my life! I'm constantly looking for ways to produce a garment with a fabric I like that does not match the pattern gauge, so your this video was really helpful.
I have a question that might fit into a future video - how would you adjust a pattern for someone who has a bit of a belly and a flat chest, especially when the person's frame (shoulders in particular) is more narrow? I'm thinking specifically for a circular yolk or top-down raglan sweater. Thanks for your nerdy content!
Welcome! I'm so glad you found the channel. 😁 No matter what adjustments I need to make I always plan to knit a size for my frame (shoulders area) to make sure that's fitting well through the shoulders. Then, in the case you mentioned, I would either use short row shaping for the belly (like I did for my bust - the same shaping works for a larger belly too) OR make more of an A-line shape where I would start increasing right beneath the bust to give me more fabric around the middle.
@@NerdyKnitting thanks for the insight on shaping for a belly! I've tried making the sweaters a bit more A-line, which works well sometimes. I'll look forward to (hopefully) seeing a video about how you add darts in the future. ☺️
Thanks Tonia. I have been doing the same. Not even worrying about getting gauge. Just looking at the fabric and then adjusting . What I am wondering is how to increase the front .Abdomen is bigger than bust You mentioned increasing at the sides. How to you figure out the increases when there is maybe 16 stitch increases. Do you increase over how many rows. I'm not sure if this is making sense. I also notice that when I try on after joining after the armhole depth that it rides up more in the back. Do I add more short rows in the back? Hope this makes sense. Love your podcast.
There are different ways to increase and add fabric. For the A-line shaping for this top, I figured out how many stitches I wanted to add and how many rows I had to do that (basically from the waist to the hip - I figured out approximately how long that area would be and multiplied by my row gauge to see how many rows I had). Then I just spaced out those increases over the number of rows (there are some online knitting calculators that can help figure that part out).
And for short rows - yes, I would add them wherever things are 'riding up' to add some extra length in that area.
Thank you so much for sharing your adventures with this project. The end result is great! I appreciate how you explained the logic behind your changes!
BTW, I am currently pursuing the MHK certificate program and am at the moment launching into the first few swatches. Excited! :)
Yay - another Master in the making! 😁 Good luck with your swatching!
@@NerdyKnitting Thank you! I did take the Taming Tension course and learned so much about tension. Corrected my edge stitches tension issues and got some really valuable feedback!
I didn't take that course (I took the basics before I started) but I bet it was a perfect introduction to the course since proper tension is such a huge part of the program. Good luck!
@@KalliBella1 I just noticed that class yesterday and was thinking about taking it myself! I need to learn how to handle to my tension on those edge stitches, and yes, I know there's lots of way of disguising them, but I'd rather learn to do it correctly - like you! Do you feel you got your money's worth? What other tension topics did they discuss? I'm SO curious!
@@DebbieHQ I found the class "Taming Tension" to be extremely helpful. It covers all the areas where a knitter may have tension issues. I highly recommend it!
Certified and master knitter…that’s pretty neat! I had never heard that before. Does that mean you can teach high school or college classes? How does a person receive this? Sorry for all the questions, I have watched your videos a few times and you explain things so well and I had to ask. Thank you.
It just means I've taken a course and received a certificate that demonstrates that I have the ability to teach knitting classes! Here's the course I used - tkga.org/certification-for-knitting-instructors/
@@NerdyKnitting thank you for replying on this. I find this very interesting. I can’t wait to see the next video! 🧶
Hello! Big question here… What do I do if I'm knitting a top-down raglan where the increases are every other row, my stitch length is perfect but row gauge is too many from the pattern, and at the same time the last row of the yoke ends on an increase as opposed to knitting the rest of the rows to the length before splitting sleeves!? How do I adapt the pattern to be the right yoke length with the right amount of increases?
Please tell me that makes sense!
Do you mean you have MORE rounds to the inch than the pattern? To get the depth needed for the yoke, just keep working rounds 'straight' without increasing until the yoke is the depth you need it to be. If it's the opposite and your yoke is too long, you could work some of the increases on the plain rounds to shorten the yoke.
@@NerdyKnittingThanks! Yes, I mean if yoke is too long. You don’t find it makes the raglan seam look wonky when you do this? Is there a specific increase you would use if you’re having to make an increase every row in the same spot?
@@kimmygibbler3984 When I have to make changes to the shaping on a raglan, I like to do it in the last third so those changes sort of hide in the underarm. I think M1L or M1R is pretty invisible and probably a good choice (but it might be a good idea to knit a little swatch to test!).
@@NerdyKnitting Awesome, thanks so much for the help! 😊
I have a math/numbers learning disability (dyscalculia) so I find knitting and crochet so frustrating when I need specific measurements or if I’m trying to figure out gauge! Otherwise, it’s my favorite thing.