BMW MSD80 ECU check and repair for misfires
Вставка
- Опубліковано 9 тра 2021
- This will show you how to check a Siemens MSD80 ECU if you have a constant misfire on one or more cylinders. These ECUs can be found on petrol engines from the 120i to 335i models and more.
The driver chips to activate the coils can go bad, but luckily they can be repaired quite easy.
Replacement drivers are IRF644SPBF for the D2PAK surface mount type, and you can find these at RS Components, Farnell, Mouser etc.
uk.rs-online.com/web/p/mosfet...
uk.farnell.com/vishay/irf644s...
Background music is Flutter by Punchdeck
/ punch-deck
creativecommons.org/licenses/... - Авто та транспорт
There are several videos on this topic however the majority just show you how to check continuity. All of my drivers passed the continuity check. When I used the diode function on my meter as per this video, the MOSFET for cylinder 2 injector had very different values to the other 5 MOSFETs indicating it to be suspect.
nice video, thanks
My ecu has issue communicating with oxygen sensor, specifically one pin of the ecu wouldn’t provide any signal or voltage from or to the oxygen sensor. I figured because I switched the connector wires red to black and black to red (black wire is not getting any current) and somehow I received signal from the wire that does not have signal before and the other wire that was getting signal doesn’t get signal once swapped. So that’s how I figured it must be the Ecu. My question to you in regards to DME S65 x60005 pin 7 which is not providing any current to the black wire. I am wondering what is the chip part number to make the necessary replacement?
Yeah, the thing is for the MSD81 the mosfets you are looking for are .... on the other side of the board :)
My ecu has issue communicating with oxygen sensor, specifically one pin of the ecu wouldn’t provide any signal or voltage from or to the oxygen sensor. I figured because I swapped the connector wires black to red and red to black (black wire wasn’t getting any voltage) somehow I received signal from the wire that does not have signal before and the other wire that was getting signal doesn’t get signal once swapped. So that’s how I figured it must be the ecu. For E60 M5 DME MS S65, x60005. Pin 7 of the DME for x60005. I wonder what is the chip part number to make the necessary repair?
Hello, I have a problem with my 4-cylinder e90 320i 2009, engine N43 with ECU version MSD81.2..Fault memory: 29CE - Combustion (ignition) misfire cylinder 2. Physically the spark plugs, coils, injectors, wiring are good. Car is still shaking after cold start. When engine is warmed up (or warm weather), works nice. So....Swapped coils, plugs, injectors each others in different cylindets, but with no change of fault code - still cylinder 2 ignition problem. Live data for rough run are bad always with cylinder 2. So I provided a test of these IGBTs V5036S according your video (on MOSFETs), but seem to be good - no short cicruit with measuring with multimeter. Is there posibility of bad working of V5036S in specific temperature and I can't detect it by multimeter? Or should to find a problem in another place? Should I replace a VS5036S? I found a blog about MSD80 and Bimmerprofs recommends to exchange them by ISL9V5045. Thank you.
Have you fixed me 7.4.7 for random misfires when warm?
Waiting for new videos
The IRF644SPBF devices are injector MOSFETs. The ignition coils are driven by the V5036S IGBT devices. Obviously, a failure in either will lead to a misfire.
I have one in front of me right now, and yes, you are correct. On the N54 ECU I have now, those FETs go to X60006, a set of 12 pins.
N54 has these listed as injectors on all pins 1-12, and ignition on X60004, a set of 6 pins.
It seems like other MSD80s use X60006 for ignition on 1-6.
Ignition drivers are the row of slightly smaller FETs just behind the middle C.
Thanks for the correction!
So u can repair a ecu that misfires
@@brandonmccall3929 how much is this part
@@Everybodyshinetogether1 for my car is $140 for a ecu
@@brandonmccall3929 can a bad one of these cause a engine electronics fault?
If it was the Ecu causing a misfire would it always throw a code ? As I think my msd80 is causing my misfire I've been chasing however I don't have any codes
Yep, if it were the driver chip, it would be a strong, constant misfire. Once they burn out, they won't come back on and the car would have an obvious shake.
It would be clear to the ECU that there is a misfire too. Weaker/milder misfires could be things like airleaks which are the most common reason for a slight misfire, or it could be injector related, or intake port sooting.
A "carbon clean" would do nothing for that, the best solution is usually walnut shell blasting. There are cheap USB endoscopes about that can see into tight places, but you'd probably need to get the intake manifold off to see properly.
@@enda320 Thank you I have changed injectors, coils, plugs, done walnut blast, reset adaptations and it seemed to be ok but drove it on holiday and it's came back just like a slight misfire at idle and low revs so maybe it's not my ecu? Due to the fact it seemed to get better/not do it but then went back to misfiring occasionally 🤦♂️
Bro which Mosfet did you use? Which yiu recommend for n53 530i 07?
Have a look in the description bit under the video. I've been using Vishay IRF644SPBF, and there's a couple of links to them at RS components, and Farnell.
Here's a link for them at Digi-key, so they are pretty common to find- www.digikey.co.uk/en/products/detail/vishay-siliconix/irf644spbf/812237
Hi, where you have 1.33v i have: 1.244v, 1.485v, 0.793v, 0.178v. please help because the car is not running. regards
Are you doing this with diode check? I have sometimes heard people say they get different readings, but you can often just look for one that stands out as being different from the others. A diode junction usually has a voltage drop of 0.6-0.7V, and you can often see 2x this for components that have 2 diodes, so 1.2- 1.4v is common.
0.793V would seem like a single diode junction, and 0.178V is too low, so it looks like one internal diode has shorted.
If those are two readings from FET "a" and two readings from FET "b", then FET "b" is your problem. If those are a/b/c/d, then c and d are bad.
Hi Have you seen this happen on MSV70? I’ve got an unexplained misfire this the last step
I don't think it's a common issue, but anything is possible.
You could try some tests with a mulitmeter and look for anything that stands out.
If you can't identify which chips control injectors or coils, you can do continuity between an injector or coil pin, as they would usually turn up on the leg of some chip. Coil drivers are usually separate, injector drivers can sometimes be combined in one chip. Once you've figured out the ignition and injector controlling chips, you can compare them to others. You might not need the exact numbers to check, but just see what the cyl1 chips show as compared to cyl2, cyl 3 etc.
If one of these chips stands out, and it's on the cylinder that has the misfire, that could be the cause.
great video, this is exactly the problem i have. but the IGBTs i need are proprietary, cant find any information on it (fairchild D941CR-00211). Is there any reasonable way around needing a donor board? can i just use any new ON-semi Ecospark or similar? can you give me a hint to characterize the IGBT? i obviously have 3 working ones :)
That would be a bit beyond me, but try asking on the EEV Blog forums (they have a forum as well as the UA-cam channel) as there's a lot of smart people there, and you're not going to get crucified like on StackExchange
The ignition IGBTs are 360V 500mJ types, eg ISL9V5036S
@@inse001 you legend! thank you! how do you know?
@@domothepilot insider
@@inse001nice. i figured. your answer is for the generic car ones from the video, or for my fairchild specific one (motorbike)? or doesn't matter?
Hey I think mine got wet any idea how I can repair it or how I can check if it did get wet?
I have a decent multi meater
@@brennenbartom8424 If you open it up, you'll usually see a very obvious tide-line on the inside of the thin metal lid. There's a lot of things that can start to corrode, so in cases like this, I tend to just clone them instead. You would need specific programmers to do this, as you need to get the ISN immobiliser code from the ECU. A straight 1:1 clone will plug in and work, everything gets copied over including any previous fault codes. Other options would be maybe switching to the MSD81 ECU, it's backward compatible with the MSD80s and doesn't tend to blow this chips up as much, but you'd still need fancy stuff to change the immobiliser code in the replacement ECU to match your existing ECU/Car.
@@endtuning do you have a video showing how to clone
@@MrJinwright Not for this type, I use Magic Motorsport Flex to clone them, you read all data out of the old ECU as a backup and write this into a replacement and Flex sorts everything out.
Thanks, valuable information
Can we communicate with you?
Where are u
MV946
Bmw e87 . Has a bsd error. I believe tja102010 could be bad. Where do I find it
It's 2004 bmw e87 n46b20 engine. Plse help
Hi mate I have an e92 with a check engine light. If I leave the car running for about 15 minutes at standstill my engine light starts flashing.
I have codes for misfire cylinder 2 and 3. I have changed all spark plugs, got full service, coil packs nd petrol injectors for those 2 cylinders all coded in and replaced my o2 censor before cat however, my problem isn’t going away.
My mechanic said it might be the ECU but that’s a £300 job so I’m wondering if you have experienced anything like this and by getting my ECU changed could it solve the problem?
I don't think that would be the ECU, when the driver chips go, they are dead forever more. I'm guessing you're going to have a 4cyl N engine, a misfire that starts up after a while could be awkward to figure out, direct injection engines have a couple of operating modes, homogeneous which is close to the traditional mixing, and stratified mode which is getting the fuel to sit in just one patch of the swirling air so in that patch, it is rich enough to keep the burning going.
Disturbances to the airflow could mix the fuel and air more, spread it about and then there isn't enough nearby to keep it going.
Sometimes it is injector spray patterns, sometimes it can be sooting on the back of the intake ports that don't get washed with fuel like a traditional injection system out in the manifold.
I'd probably look at intake port cleaning first, walnut blasting is the way to go. It something most direction injection engines will need at some point in their lives, so even if it doesn't fix the problem, you've at least got something clean and tidy.
Viewer 420