Barry, I honestly throw one comment on UA-cam every 5 years or so, and I gotta tell you that you and your UA-cam channel are absolute gems Thanks for the knowledge sharing, thanks for the dedication (And don’t stop doing tractor and truck videos)
I know the video was well intentioned, but there was quite a bit left out. To start with, there's no standard that manufacturers have to go by when rating an amplifiers power (or any other measurements). Each company does it as they see fit. If you take 5 or 10 different amps from different manufacturers and measured them all the same way, every one would be different. How different depends on how honest the manufacturer is. Beyond that, when you are trying to match an amp to a speaker, the single most important factor to consider is the lowest resistance the speaker shows the amp. That's the figure that's going to tell the amp how hard it has to work. When you look at a speaker that has an 8 ohm rating, for example, that's just an average. A speakers resistance determines the power output of an amp. And a speakers resistance changes with frequency. If you look at the specs for any power amp, you get a number in watts, like 100, but they also give you a number for resistance. You would see something like100watts at 8 ohms. And since we know an 8 ohm speaker will be an average derived from frequency, the only way that amp can actually be 100 watts is at the single frequency that shows an 8 ohm load. If the speaker has to reproduce a higher note, the speakers resistance be higher, like 16 ohms. At 16 ohms, you have a 50 watt amp. Literally. And if the speaker needs to play a low bass note, resistance may now drop to something like 4 ohms, and if the amp is made well, its now a 200 watt amp. This is where the problems start with power ratings. The lower the resistance, the harder the amp has to work. 0 ohms is a dead short. If you turn your amp on and touch the speaker cables together, that's 0 ohms. To use all this info in a practical sense, lets say you are looking a 2 pairs of speakers. Both of them have an average resistance of 8 ohms. However, one speaker may drop down to 4 ohms, and the other 2 ohms. The speaker that drops down to 2 ohms is going to be much harder to drive, Lowest resistance is the single most important number to look at. There was one huge thing that was left out of the video. In pro audio, its very common to bridge stereo amps into 1 channel. A bridged stereo amp is not a mono amp, its a bridged stereo amp. The rules change for bridged amps. When bridged, an amp sees the speaker at half its normal resistance. Your 8 ohm speaker that drops down to 4 ohms is now a 4 ohm speaker that drops down to 2 ohms. The amp has to work twice as hard to drive the exact same speaker. One last thing worth mentioning is extremely high wattage ratings. When you see an amp rated for 500 or 1000 watts, its just ridiculous. Those power ratings are going to be based on the lowest possible frequency its asked to reproduced. As the frequencies go up, the amps power rating goes down. Not only that, 90-95% of the amps on the market inflate their power ratings by how they take the measurements. They use test tones, not music. Its extremely easy for an amp to reproduce a constant test tone that doesn't vary. Watts are an artificial number based on something that can't happen in real world use. If you rated that same 1000 watt amp with music going through it instead of a test tone, the actual power is a small fraction of what the test tone numbers are.
Recently been able to upgrade piece by piece. Matched the amp continuous wattage to the speaker max input. Whereas the previous amp had just over half the speaker max. I was concerned of transient peaks but now i am not tempted to push things anywhere near what i did before. No need. Anything around the 10o'clock point on the volume damaging to ears let alone anything else. Headroom, soundstage, low frequencies are in abundance at very low listening levels. Your advice about not pushing things is very welcome Barry. From a budget Cambridge Audio 65wpc driving some very cheap TDL 130w 6ohm. To Fyne Audio F303 120watts being driven by (o.k its old) NAD C370 120wpc.
Thanks -- This is total opinion. I've used a lot of hifi gear over the years. I really pursued audiophile sound and bigger and better systems, which eventually lead me to pro-audio/live sound. My former hifi systems were much more expensive and elaborate... probably better, maybe... For me, nothing at home really compares to power, the bass, or the dynamics of the live sound systems. After doing concert sound, no home hi-fi system seems very impressive to me. Plus, I just don't actively listen to music as much as I once did, these days mostly I watch and occasionally produce video, work with my own productions/recording, or listen to podcasts. The audio system I use at my desk isn't "audiophile" level. If it was a big room, and I was entertaining people, I'd choose differently. For working at my desk, this setup works for me. I know I'm missing some sub-bass, and I've got some bumps in the mid-bass, but sometimes perfect is the enemy of good. I'm pretty content overall with this combo. It is currently comprised of a vintage Crown IC-150A preamp that I've upgraded with modern op-amps (the original op-amps were a bit harsh sounding, but now this unit sounds great with state-of-the-art performance, and the feel of the controls is old-fashioned quality like gear NASA used to make), a Crown PS-200 power amp (I choose this model because it sounds good, does not have any fans, has ample power for my desktop hifi, doesn't draw a ton of power at idle, and takes an unbalanced input). Yeah, I do like vintage Crown. My primary "desktop" speakers are JBL S38s (original version, not the IIs). I occasionally swap equipment as the mood strikes, but this setup has worked pretty well for me lately. I've previously used powered studio monitor speakers, and I think that's a valid choice too, and a bit simpler. For headphones, I usually reach for some vintage AKG-K240DFs if I want "accurate", or Sony MDR-7506 if I want "fun". The Sony's are easier to drive. If my mix sounds nice on both & the speakers, I'm probably ok on balance. When choosing a sound system, I think the loudspeakers have the greatest impact. So, I'd focus most of my attention and budget on getting the speakers that sound best to you.
Hi, I have an amp I care for very much. It is a Marshall 2525C the silver jubilee studio combo I actually have all four of those studio models lol. Either way the one thing consistent is the sharpness and the trouble of course also in the 20 W amp And summon senses their areas where I wonder if a higher wattage speaker rather than using the green back which is in the combo when I cannot carry an extension speaker cab, which I have scumbag speakers in what would be the ideal speaker I thought a cream, but then I was looking at the Celestion and even considered because my Mesa boogie Fillmore 25 has the 90 W Celestion Al Nico magnet speaker, and I wondered how this would sound in my silver jubilee and would it increase the headroom in anyway 2:022:052:10 and or deepen the Sound as well there is not a deep switch for the amp thanks any other advice about ideal speakers with the best Sound clarity and death I would love to hear any advice for this amplifier truly The greenback is OK but just not really OK thanks. Also look at a couple of eminence products. Mostly the governor.
Guitar tone is so subjective, and so personal, I think that's a matter of trying different options and deciding what really suits you best. Generally I'm a big fan of the eminence loudspeakers, and they have a variety of guitar amplifier speakers each with their own sound character, and I would imagine one of them would fit you well. I might also consider the addition of some acoustical insulation (fiberglass) in the loudspeaker cabinet if you want to mellow some of the edginess of the tone, and perhaps the use of an EQ pedal if you need more shaping than what the amp offers.
Very cool video. My journey brought me to less (81db) efficient speakers and 100w of hybrid power. As the speakers are 3 way with a 6 inch tweeter, they sing when the amp hits about 60%. Understanding decibels was cool too. My amp & speakers are from the same manufacturer so it was a small leap of faith, which I love now. Subwoofers are a mixed breed to me. Many sound like a loud mess like the concerts from the 70s/80s. Tight bass, imho, is tough depending on the room. Such a journey. ❤
Great explanation . A trough expert is easy to spot and understand. In a sense my only real question is how much this applies to most people, surely you would have to have your volume excessively loud before you where risking your system, or at least a verry badly mis matched one.
Good point. For me these issues primarily apply in commercial situations, doing audio for live bands where you are dealing with significant amounts of power. When I'm doing listening at home, I doubt I'm using much more than a few watts typically.
@@Barry-Watson As a matter of fact my sound system was chosen section by section to allow me to listen at verry low volumes. without it going flat my previos system about 5K cheaper than the currant one so far and I loved it loud but hated not enjoying it quietly.
Dude, who are you! You are absolutely one of the best communicators I have come across in the world of audio. No one talks like you without having a triple digit high IQ. I am grateful to have come across your channel. I hope you will continue to give us balanced truth. Thank You.
I start by saying I agree with your point of view on this subject and thanks for posting, I hit the button! I'm just adding a little color! At the end of the day If someone is the kind of listener mixer that can destroy speakers with a small amp going DC they should introduce themselves to A lighting desk. As that is akin to saying when you drive on narrow roads you don't like how much time is spent in the ditch so I want wider roads. Slow down driving is the job, staying on the road is the first order of business. The choice to blow speakers was the person on the throttle not the amp, under sized or not (proper output impedance considered here). Before any speaker is destroyed woofers for example will sound like a cardboard box getting slapped with a tennis racket. Bigger power wont fix that kind of talent. Yes too small of a system in too loud of environment will make it less apparent that speaker abuse is going on but it remains the first order of business in progressing with amplified live content in speaker systems. Good luck to all and remember learn to keep your crayon in-between the lines!
Watt ws watt. Or what watts. It's interesting to see how the relationship between continuous power, and peak or maximum power has changed. Compare class A/B with transformer, - A/B with switchmode power / variants like EE-Engine ( Yamaha ) and class H powersupply - and now class D, also with smp. Higher peaks compared to continuous, but that makes sense, music isn't continuous levels, at least not what I listen to. And if the peaks clipps..... Perhaps the subject of another video :)
I have a NAD 216 amp with a clip limiting function. Older amp I picked up because I wanted a spare that sounded good. Nice little amp, don't know how good clip limiter works. It just seems to me if you need to use that your amp is too small in the first place.
My basic rule has always been to have an amp rated higher than the speaker peak so the speaker has everything it needs when it needs it. I know that is just one part of amplifier choice, but I think it is a good starting point. I am not a pro, just talking about HiFi, and rarely do I turn up the volume so high that it stresses my amp ormy speakers. In fact never. I have big, loud speakers and a very powerful amp. Yet, I generally listen at sane levels in my living room. Though I do like to crank it up sometimes.
Yeah, I agree. No problem using a big amp as long as you don't crank things up to the point of damage. It's better to have some headroom. Some people suggest an amp that is 1.5 - 2x the speaker power rating. I have a 750w PA amp on my home stereo, and I almost never even light up the signal lights. Overkill, yup, but it's the amp that was handy. Plenty of headroom!
I have a pair of speakers that I want to connect to a kenwood amplifier and I’m not sure the amplifier is powerful enough and how I should wire it. I’ve tried understanding parallel Wiring and if it would double the power but I’m still confused do you have a email or other way we can communicate besides these comments let me know if so
Sure, no problem. Are we talking about home audio, or car stereo? Can you give me the model number of the Kenwood Amp, and how many speakers do you have, and what is their impedance (in ohms). Is this for full-range speakers or are you driving car audio subwoofers? Let me know, and I'll try to help ya figure out what makes sense in this situation.
@@Barry-Watson the speakers are 6ohm from a lg cm-8460 sound system and the amplifier is a Kenwood vr-6070. Here is specs on speakers. HIGH : 2 Way 2 Speaker MID : 1 Way 1Speaker Impedance HIGH : 6 Ω MID : 6 Ω Rated Input power HIGH : 555W MID : 555W Max. Input power HIGH : 1110W MID : 1110W
They'll be fine, just connect them to the main speaker outputs of the receiver. On the speaker wires there is probably a polarity indication, like one wire has a stripe along it, or the insulation is rounded on one wire, and the other wire has a little ridge. Connect the marked wire on each speaker to the (+) terminal of it's channel on the receiver, and the other wire to the (-) side. I'm assuming that those LG speakers are normal speakers, and they don't have any active electronics in them as part of that packaged LG sound system. Best wishes!
I am surprised that you didn't mention one of the easiest and cheap way of protecting drivers is to fuse them. Blowing a 25 cent fuse is much cheaper than replacing a driver, or a diaphram. On the subject of power ratings, I always have to shake my head and laugh whe I see a plastic stero at Walmart with big letters saying 1000 watts, and the whole thing only costs $29.99
You might be interested in this video: ua-cam.com/video/2xMT3rEvI-U/v-deo.html Yeah, fuses are an option. Some audiophiles believe that they degrade sound quality. I know, some equipment has power ratings that seem awfully optimistic.
Sound Man Barry! I need help! I have to run sound outside for a festival. I don't want to blow up my equipment. Will a regular generator work, or should I rent one with an inverter. I found an inverter generator that's 300watts. I'm running a Peavy 400watt mixer head, into two 200watt speakers, with a passive monitor, and I'm bringing my QSC 1450 with an Ashley bass preamp into an old Sonic 2x18 2x10 cabinet. I have no idea how to calculate total power draw. I'm really just a musician that got roped into doing this. They normally hire a sound company, but they don't have the money this year. The bands are traditional Irish bands with all acoustic instruments. I just don't want anything to blow up. Please help!!!!!!!!
When running on generators bigger is better. I'd look for at least a 5kw generator. I'm comfortable using those big commercial trailer mounted generators that are 20-60kw, but if you can't get that, I'd rent a good sized portable generator. The inverter type are best, but more importantly you want one that can handle the peak current demands. Don't go too small. Some amplifiers handle the brief power fluctiations from generators better than others. Have fun, hope you have a great time and a good show!
Lights often draw more continous power than sound, but the sound can have some high peak demands. You want to stay well within the generators ability. Running a bank or two of lights on the generator can help keep a nice modest load on the generator, and smooth out the power for the audio.
I dont understand how you can overdrive the amp. It the volume knob goes to 11, then the amp should be able to take it. The eq too. They should make em to take it.
The volume control doesn't really specify a certain output level. It controls how much the amp boosts the input signal. Put in a large enough input signal, and you could overdrive the amplifier. Yeah, I would expect most guitar amplifiers to be designed so they are difficult to break, but if you're using separate amplifiers and speakers, then it's your responsibility to make good decisions. Many pro-sound PA amplifiers do provide some signal processing including clip limiting, but that's another issue.
Thanks -- It's certainly possible. Clipped amplifiers put out a great deal of high frequency harmonic energy which can overpower tweeters. They can also put out dense energy spectrum, more so than standard music, which could possibly damage other drivers as well. This is why many people recommend using a large power amplifier to avoid clipping, rather than a too small amplifier that may get occasionally clip on the peaks. If your amplifier includes a clip limiting feature that may be a wise thing to engage if there is a likelihood of running near full power.
Very interesting and helpful. I learned things that I’ve been curious about for decades and you make it easy to understand.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Glad I found your channel. I’ve learned so much in just a few short videos. Thank you for the audio advice
Glad to hear it!
Barry, I honestly throw one comment on UA-cam every 5 years or so, and I gotta tell you that you and your UA-cam channel are absolute gems
Thanks for the knowledge sharing, thanks for the dedication
(And don’t stop doing tractor and truck videos)
Wow, thank you!
I know the video was well intentioned, but there was quite a bit left out. To start with, there's no standard that manufacturers have to go by when rating an amplifiers power (or any other measurements). Each company does it as they see fit. If you take 5 or 10 different amps from different manufacturers and measured them all the same way, every one would be different. How different depends on how honest the manufacturer is.
Beyond that, when you are trying to match an amp to a speaker, the single most important factor to consider is the lowest resistance the speaker shows the amp. That's the figure that's going to tell the amp how hard it has to work. When you look at a speaker that has an 8 ohm rating, for example, that's just an average. A speakers resistance determines the power output of an amp. And a speakers resistance changes with frequency. If you look at the specs for any power amp, you get a number in watts, like 100, but they also give you a number for resistance. You would see something like100watts at 8 ohms. And since we know an 8 ohm speaker will be an average derived from frequency, the only way that amp can actually be 100 watts is at the single frequency that shows an 8 ohm load. If the speaker has to reproduce a higher note, the speakers resistance be higher, like 16 ohms. At 16 ohms, you have a 50 watt amp. Literally. And if the speaker needs to play a low bass note, resistance may now drop to something like 4 ohms, and if the amp is made well, its now a 200 watt amp. This is where the problems start with power ratings. The lower the resistance, the harder the amp has to work. 0 ohms is a dead short. If you turn your amp on and touch the speaker cables together, that's 0 ohms.
To use all this info in a practical sense, lets say you are looking a 2 pairs of speakers. Both of them have an average resistance of 8 ohms. However, one speaker may drop down to 4 ohms, and the other 2 ohms. The speaker that drops down to 2 ohms is going to be much harder to drive, Lowest resistance is the single most important number to look at.
There was one huge thing that was left out of the video. In pro audio, its very common to bridge stereo amps into 1 channel. A bridged stereo amp is not a mono amp, its a bridged stereo amp. The rules change for bridged amps. When bridged, an amp sees the speaker at half its normal resistance. Your 8 ohm speaker that drops down to 4 ohms is now a 4 ohm speaker that drops down to 2 ohms. The amp has to work twice as hard to drive the exact same speaker.
One last thing worth mentioning is extremely high wattage ratings. When you see an amp rated for 500 or 1000 watts, its just ridiculous. Those power ratings are going to be based on the lowest possible frequency its asked to reproduced. As the frequencies go up, the amps power rating goes down. Not only that, 90-95% of the amps on the market inflate their power ratings by how they take the measurements. They use test tones, not music. Its extremely easy for an amp to reproduce a constant test tone that doesn't vary. Watts are an artificial number based on something that can't happen in real world use. If you rated that same 1000 watt amp with music going through it instead of a test tone, the actual power is a small fraction of what the test tone numbers are.
Recently been able to upgrade piece by piece.
Matched the amp continuous wattage to the speaker max input. Whereas the previous amp had just over half the speaker max.
I was concerned of transient peaks but now i am not tempted to push things anywhere near what i did before. No need. Anything around the 10o'clock point on the volume damaging to ears let alone anything else.
Headroom, soundstage, low frequencies are in abundance at very low listening levels.
Your advice about not pushing things is very welcome Barry.
From a budget Cambridge Audio 65wpc driving some very cheap TDL 130w 6ohm.
To Fyne Audio F303 120watts being driven by (o.k its old) NAD C370 120wpc.
Fantastic! Thanks!
I too have learned a lot from you Barry, thank you for the content. Can I ask .. what do you run at home for your music enjoyment?
Thanks -- This is total opinion.
I've used a lot of hifi gear over the years. I really pursued audiophile sound and bigger and better systems, which eventually lead me to pro-audio/live sound. My former hifi systems were much more expensive and elaborate... probably better, maybe...
For me, nothing at home really compares to power, the bass, or the dynamics of the live sound systems. After doing concert sound, no home hi-fi system seems very impressive to me.
Plus, I just don't actively listen to music as much as I once did, these days mostly I watch and occasionally produce video, work with my own productions/recording, or listen to podcasts.
The audio system I use at my desk isn't "audiophile" level. If it was a big room, and I was entertaining people, I'd choose differently. For working at my desk, this setup works for me. I know I'm missing some sub-bass, and I've got some bumps in the mid-bass, but sometimes perfect is the enemy of good. I'm pretty content overall with this combo.
It is currently comprised of a vintage Crown IC-150A preamp that I've upgraded with modern op-amps (the original op-amps were a bit harsh sounding, but now this unit sounds great with state-of-the-art performance, and the feel of the controls is old-fashioned quality like gear NASA used to make), a Crown PS-200 power amp (I choose this model because it sounds good, does not have any fans, has ample power for my desktop hifi, doesn't draw a ton of power at idle, and takes an unbalanced input). Yeah, I do like vintage Crown. My primary "desktop" speakers are JBL S38s (original version, not the IIs). I occasionally swap equipment as the mood strikes, but this setup has worked pretty well for me lately. I've previously used powered studio monitor speakers, and I think that's a valid choice too, and a bit simpler. For headphones, I usually reach for some vintage AKG-K240DFs if I want "accurate", or Sony MDR-7506 if I want "fun". The Sony's are easier to drive. If my mix sounds nice on both & the speakers, I'm probably ok on balance.
When choosing a sound system, I think the loudspeakers have the greatest impact. So, I'd focus most of my attention and budget on getting the speakers that sound best to you.
Hi, I have an amp I care for very much. It is a Marshall 2525C the silver jubilee studio combo I actually have all four of those studio models lol. Either way the one thing consistent is the sharpness and the trouble of course also in the 20 W amp And summon senses their areas where I wonder if a higher wattage speaker rather than using the green back which is in the combo when I cannot carry an extension speaker cab, which I have scumbag speakers in what would be the ideal speaker I thought a cream, but then I was looking at the Celestion and even considered because my Mesa boogie Fillmore 25 has the 90 W Celestion Al Nico magnet speaker, and I wondered how this would sound in my silver jubilee and would it increase the headroom in anyway 2:02 2:05 2:10 and or deepen the Sound as well there is not a deep switch for the amp thanks any other advice about ideal speakers with the best Sound clarity and death I would love to hear any advice for this amplifier truly The greenback is OK but just not really OK thanks. Also look at a couple of eminence products. Mostly the governor.
Guitar tone is so subjective, and so personal, I think that's a matter of trying different options and deciding what really suits you best. Generally I'm a big fan of the eminence loudspeakers, and they have a variety of guitar amplifier speakers each with their own sound character, and I would imagine one of them would fit you well. I might also consider the addition of some acoustical insulation (fiberglass) in the loudspeaker cabinet if you want to mellow some of the edginess of the tone, and perhaps the use of an EQ pedal if you need more shaping than what the amp offers.
Very cool video. My journey brought me to less (81db) efficient speakers and 100w of hybrid power. As the speakers are 3 way with a 6 inch tweeter, they sing when the amp hits about 60%. Understanding decibels was cool too. My amp & speakers are from the same manufacturer so it was a small leap of faith, which I love now. Subwoofers are a mixed breed to me. Many sound like a loud mess like the concerts from the 70s/80s. Tight bass, imho, is tough depending on the room. Such a journey. ❤
Thanks! I appreciate that.
Great explanation . A trough expert is easy to spot and understand.
In a sense my only real question is how much this applies to most people, surely you would have to have your volume excessively loud before you where risking your system, or at least a verry badly mis matched one.
Good point. For me these issues primarily apply in commercial situations, doing audio for live bands where you are dealing with significant amounts of power. When I'm doing listening at home, I doubt I'm using much more than a few watts typically.
@@Barry-Watson As a matter of fact my sound system was chosen section by section to allow me to listen at verry low volumes. without it going flat my previos system about 5K cheaper than the currant one so far and I loved it loud but hated not enjoying it quietly.
Dude, who are you! You are absolutely one of the best communicators I have come across in the world of audio. No one talks like you without having a triple digit high IQ. I am grateful to have come across your channel. I hope you will continue to give us balanced truth. Thank You.
Wow, thank you!
@@Barry-Watson Well earned. Liked and Subbed.
I start by saying I agree with your point of view on this subject and thanks for posting, I hit the button! I'm just adding a little color! At the end of the day If someone is the kind of listener mixer that can destroy speakers with a small amp going DC they should introduce themselves to A lighting desk. As that is akin to saying when you drive on narrow roads you don't like how much time is spent in the ditch so I want wider roads. Slow down driving is the job, staying on the road is the first order of business. The choice to blow speakers was the person on the throttle not the amp, under sized or not (proper output impedance considered here). Before any speaker is destroyed woofers for example will sound like a cardboard box getting slapped with a tennis racket. Bigger power wont fix that kind of talent. Yes too small of a system in too loud of environment will make it less apparent that speaker abuse is going on but it remains the first order of business in progressing with amplified live content in speaker systems. Good luck to all and remember learn to keep your crayon in-between the lines!
Watt ws watt. Or what watts. It's interesting to see how the relationship between continuous power, and peak or maximum power has changed. Compare class A/B with transformer, - A/B with switchmode power / variants like EE-Engine ( Yamaha ) and class H powersupply - and now class D, also with smp. Higher peaks compared to continuous, but that makes sense, music isn't continuous levels, at least not what I listen to. And if the peaks clipps..... Perhaps the subject of another video :)
I have a NAD 216 amp with a clip limiting function. Older amp I picked up because I wanted a spare that sounded good. Nice little amp, don't know how good clip limiter works. It just seems to me if you need to use that your amp is too small in the first place.
I wouldn't rely on the amp's clip limiting function. But, I bet that feature has saved a lot of PA loudspeakers.
'sound' qualitative analysis and advice ;-)
Glad you think so!
Very helpful!
Glad you think so!
My basic rule has always been to have an amp rated higher than the speaker peak so the speaker has everything it needs when it needs it. I know that is just one part of amplifier choice, but I think it is a good starting point. I am not a pro, just talking about HiFi, and rarely do I turn up the volume so high that it stresses my amp ormy speakers. In fact never. I have big, loud speakers and a very powerful amp. Yet, I generally listen at sane levels in my living room. Though I do like to crank it up sometimes.
Yeah, I agree. No problem using a big amp as long as you don't crank things up to the point of damage. It's better to have some headroom.
Some people suggest an amp that is 1.5 - 2x the speaker power rating.
I have a 750w PA amp on my home stereo, and I almost never even light up the signal lights. Overkill, yup, but it's the amp that was handy. Plenty of headroom!
I have a pair of speakers that I want to connect to a kenwood amplifier and I’m not sure the amplifier is powerful enough and how I should wire it. I’ve tried understanding parallel Wiring and if it would double the power but I’m still confused do you have a email or other way we can communicate besides these comments let me know if so
And any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Sure, no problem. Are we talking about home audio, or car stereo?
Can you give me the model number of the Kenwood Amp, and how many speakers do you have, and what is their impedance (in ohms).
Is this for full-range speakers or are you driving car audio subwoofers?
Let me know, and I'll try to help ya figure out what makes sense in this situation.
@@Barry-Watson the speakers are 6ohm from a lg cm-8460 sound system and the amplifier is a Kenwood vr-6070. Here is specs on speakers.
HIGH : 2 Way 2 Speaker MID : 1 Way 1Speaker
Impedance
HIGH : 6 Ω MID : 6 Ω
Rated Input power
HIGH : 555W MID : 555W
Max. Input power
HIGH : 1110W MID : 1110W
I’m sorry and they are full range for home with two sets of wires coming out The back of each speaker.
They'll be fine, just connect them to the main speaker outputs of the receiver.
On the speaker wires there is probably a polarity indication, like one wire has a stripe along it, or the insulation is rounded on one wire, and the other wire has a little ridge. Connect the marked wire on each speaker to the (+) terminal of it's channel on the receiver, and the other wire to the (-) side.
I'm assuming that those LG speakers are normal speakers, and they don't have any active electronics in them as part of that packaged LG sound system. Best wishes!
I am surprised that you didn't mention one of the easiest and cheap way of protecting drivers is to fuse them. Blowing a 25 cent fuse is much cheaper than replacing a driver, or a diaphram. On the subject of power ratings, I always have to shake my head and laugh whe I see a plastic stero at Walmart with big letters saying 1000 watts, and the whole thing only costs $29.99
You might be interested in this video:
ua-cam.com/video/2xMT3rEvI-U/v-deo.html
Yeah, fuses are an option. Some audiophiles believe that they degrade sound quality. I know, some equipment has power ratings that seem awfully optimistic.
Sound Man Barry! I need help! I have to run sound outside for a festival. I don't want to blow up my equipment. Will a regular generator work, or should I rent one with an inverter. I found an inverter generator that's 300watts. I'm running a Peavy 400watt mixer head, into two 200watt speakers, with a passive monitor, and I'm bringing my QSC 1450 with an Ashley bass preamp into an old Sonic 2x18 2x10 cabinet. I have no idea how to calculate total power draw. I'm really just a musician that got roped into doing this. They normally hire a sound company, but they don't have the money this year. The bands are traditional Irish bands with all acoustic instruments. I just don't want anything to blow up. Please help!!!!!!!!
When running on generators bigger is better. I'd look for at least a 5kw generator. I'm comfortable using those big commercial trailer mounted generators that are 20-60kw, but if you can't get that, I'd rent a good sized portable generator. The inverter type are best, but more importantly you want one that can handle the peak current demands. Don't go too small. Some amplifiers handle the brief power fluctiations from generators better than others. Have fun, hope you have a great time and a good show!
Lights often draw more continous power than sound, but the sound can have some high peak demands. You want to stay well within the generators ability. Running a bank or two of lights on the generator can help keep a nice modest load on the generator, and smooth out the power for the audio.
Thank you very much!!!!!!
Thanks again for your awesome advice and video's. Rock and roll 🎶🎶🎶
Big fan from India
Nice! Thanks!
I dont understand how you can overdrive the amp. It the volume knob goes to 11, then the amp should be able to take it. The eq too. They should make em to take it.
The volume control doesn't really specify a certain output level. It controls how much the amp boosts the input signal. Put in a large enough input signal, and you could overdrive the amplifier.
Yeah, I would expect most guitar amplifiers to be designed so they are difficult to break, but if you're using separate amplifiers and speakers, then it's your responsibility to make good decisions.
Many pro-sound PA amplifiers do provide some signal processing including clip limiting, but that's another issue.
It's also possible to launch the whole cone out and have it hanging by the leads 🤣
That would be impressive!
hey
100 watt amp will blow 800 watt speakers if you clip it. Waiting to see if I'm right. LOL
Thanks -- It's certainly possible. Clipped amplifiers put out a great deal of high frequency harmonic energy which can overpower tweeters. They can also put out dense energy spectrum, more so than standard music, which could possibly damage other drivers as well.
This is why many people recommend using a large power amplifier to avoid clipping, rather than a too small amplifier that may get occasionally clip on the peaks. If your amplifier includes a clip limiting feature that may be a wise thing to engage if there is a likelihood of running near full power.
Amplifier 600 ,800 ,1500 w? 😂 A speaker 50 -200 w can play nice and loud with an amplifier 85 w
Sure. I was doing this from the perspective of live sound reinforcement, where these higher power levels are commonplace.
Years back as an optimistic teenager I got some cheap pc speakers from eBay rated at like 200w... 😅 If i had to guess they sounded more like 2w... 🥲