Відео

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most have even Ditched 4K because to be relevant today you have to been Frist to get things out and 3K is costly and takes hours longer to process and most people are not watching in 4K everyone is trying to cut corners save dollars and one way is cutting internet speed they have discover the streaming service all run good today with slower internet and so they watch standard video

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Quite possibly, but I'm not familiar with a compatible remote control unit for this camera that plugs into that port. If you know of one that works properly, please let us know.

@@Barry-Watson I will give it a shot

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Thanks!

Great, let me know how it works for you!

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I appreciate that, I hope it helps you make a good decision!

I had the door closed for the greatest vacuum and deepest cleaning, but that may increase the risk of damaging the vacuum sensor slightly. I never have damaged a vacuum sensor however.

@@Barry-Watson it is easy to pull the vacuum hoses off the sensor before vacuuming

Sure, put the charger into a motorcycle or maintenance mode for full time battery monitoring and top off charging as required.

@ thanks for the quick response. What’s the difference between the std and motorcycle profiles?

The other modes do one charge cycle, and then the charger stops. In maintenance mode, the charger says it's off when complete, but the charger continues to monitor battery voltage and will restart as needed to keep the battery maintained for long periods.

Yeah, that's why I think these shields have limited effectiveness.

Thanks -- It's amazing how much ash gets caught in the crevices. I usually blow it out when I see the performance decline, or after burning about a pallet of pellets.

​@@Barry-Watson yeah we clean ours out once a week

The potential issue with just unplugging phantom powered mics would be the three terminal connections not making contact at exactly the same time, or making intermittent contact causing power transients, causing power applied to the microphone on only one line for a moment. How, or if, that would impact the microphone's electronics would depend upon that specific microphones design. I think the chances of damaging most microphone this way are very small, but at the cost of an expensive condenser microphone, is it worth the risk? I have un/plugged hot microphones many times, and have never had an issue. However I recommend turning off phantom power briefly before connecting or disconnecting microphones since it’s a simple habit that adds an extra layer of protection. The most important thing, I think, is to make sure the channel is muted and gain turned down so when you turn off or unplug the microphones you don't get a nasty transient pop through the system.

Some of the convoy lights are sold with batteries as an option. Value is a personal decision, I think they offer high quality product at a price point lower than most of their competition. As with most any product, you have to determine what's most important to you in terms of features, quality, and price.

@@Barry-Watson Thanks, its obvious that they are held in high regard! Appreciate the quick reply!

Thanks, I appreciate you watching!

There's more than one way to do this - let me suggest a simple approach. The actuator has internal limit switches when it is fully extended or closed, so you could apply power full time to the actuator and it will stop when it reaches travel limits. So we just need a circuit that will apply power to the actuator to extend, and then reverse the polarity when we want the actuator to retract. You can do this with a simple DPDT relay. Lets assume 12v DC. To use a 12V double pole double throw (DPDT) relay to output 12V and reverse polarity periodically with a simple timer, you would need to wire the relay to switch the polarity of the voltage sent to your load. Here's how you can set it up: Relay Configuration: A DPDT relay has six pins: two for the common (COM) terminals, two for the normally open (NO) terminals, and two for the normally closed (NC) terminals. The relay's COM terminals will be connected to your 12V DC power supply. The NO terminals will be connected to the positive and negative outputs going to your load. The NC terminals will provide the reverse polarity when activated. Wiring: COM 1 connects to the positive terminal of the 12V supply. COM 2 connects to the negative terminal of the 12V supply. NO 1 connects to the positive terminal of the load. NO 2 connects to the negative terminal of the load. NC 1 connects to the negative terminal of the load. NC 2 connects to the positive terminal of the load. Timer Control: Connect a 12v timer to switch the power supply to the relay's coil terminals to activate the relay periodically to open/close the activator.. The timer will periodically activate and deactivate the relay. When the relay is deactivated, the load will receive the 12V output (connected through the NO terminals). When the relay is activated, it will switch to the NC terminals, reversing the polarity to the load. As I mentioned this isn't the only way (or maybe the best way) you could do this, but it achieves the result with minimum parts - a 12 Volt digital timer, power supply/battery and a relay.

Thanks, glad it helped!

Glad you found the solution!

I'm so glad!

Sorry to hear that this simple reset didn't get your camera working again. Sometimes equipment needs more than just a reset, components can fail and then equipment needs repair. In this case usually the camera needs a new main circuit board and that is typically several hundred dollars of repair or you might be lucky and simply have a malfunctioning door switch or contact. If your camera needs an expensive repair, it might make the most sense to consider if this is a good time to upgrade to a new model. You can check the links in the video description for canon cameras that work well for me.

That would be cool, but it's not an option offered by this model.

Thanks, wishing you the best in this upcoming year!

Really enjoy your audio lessons. Happy 2025.

Thanks! Check the "Sound Advice" playlist for the audio related videos.

Thanks for subscribing! I'm glad the video was helpful!

Yes, of course.

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I had a DH-500, and it would run pretty warm at idle as well. Class AB amplifiers, even using mosfets, do dissipate a little heat at idle depending upon bias. The service manuals for those Hafler amplifiers can be found on the Internet, if you're looking for the adjustment procedure. It's pretty simple. Thanks for watching!

@Barry-Watson thank you the video was helpful in better understanding my amp.

I'm sorry to hear that didn’t work out for you. Unfortunately, some issues do require component repair. Given the potential cost of repairs, this might be a good opportunity to consider upgrading.

Thanks, I've always had good results with the EV ND767 also. The Neumann U87 is fantastic with a super lush and big sound, but I think you can get nearly equal great results for a lot less money with some other good LDC mics. Not saying other mics sound exactly the same, but there are other mics that sound as good (or better) in their own way. If you own a studio, you might need a U87 just because clients demand it, but for your own studio if price is any issue, I'd consider checking out other nice LDC mics at 1/2 the price. By the way, my U87s tend to pick up electrical interference a little bit more than my other mics and getting a perfectly silent background with them can be challenging if you are in a place with strong RF noise. For this reason, they are often not the first mic I grab, even though they do have great sound quality.

Thanks for sharing

That's awesome! Thanks for watching!

That's awesome, you're welcome! Deep cleaning with a leaf vacuum can really clean out the stove and improve performance, plus it's fun to do.

Thanks for the tip! So far at the unit that I repaired has been working well. The old Selenium rectifiers were simply riveted to the sides of the box cover as a heat sink. The new silicon rectifier is a lot more efficient, so I don't think it puts out as much heat as the old ones, and likewise I just used the enclosure and a dab of heat conductive paste to dissipate any heat. In my use, it never gets very warm.

@@Barry-Watson Point well made and taken Barry. The new rectifier is way more efficient and cooler running. Have yourself a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. Peace vf

@@Barry-WatsonI like your logic Barry. The new rectifier is way more efficient and well priced. I have learned that using aluminum as a heat sink really make electronic components perform best. Peace vf 😀😀😀

Thanks! Glad you found it helpful!

Thank you for the kind comments. I'm glad you enjoyed the video.

Engines only need three things to run, good spark, compression, and proper fuel mixture. I'd probably make sure that you have fresh fuel and good spark, that's an easy first step. Best wishes.

@ I appreciate the quick reply! I’ll try that out. Mower has been sitting for a while per the old owner. Thanks!

If the engine has been sitting around for a long time, my suspicions would lean towards the fuel system. You could have old fuel residue anywhere the fuel goes, the carburetor, fuel cutoff solenoid etc. I'd start by draining all of it out and flushing with fresh fuel, and anticipate that you might need to do a carburetor cleaning or overhaul and make sure you don't have any gummy fuel deposits in the system. There is a product called 'mechanic in a bottle' which is supposed to dissolve old fuel varnish deposits if they are not too severe. Dump out all the old fuel, put some fresh fuel in with this solvent, wait a couple days, and just maybe it will come to life without major disassembly,

@@Barry-Watson great! Appreciate the info, I’ll let you know how it goes!

Excellent! I'm glad that helped!

Glad you liked it!

I would probably attach the transmitter unit to the power cable at the house, and trace from the house outward. I think that would be the easiest location where you could tap onto the cable.

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