I like adding a supplemental fuel injector working off a pressure switch in the intake tube before the carburetor as a more simple solution. Thanks for the video
You can do that. It was a common thing to do back when I uses to work on turbocharged hondas 10+ years ago. With a properly built carb, you can tune for the whole curve instead of just dumping fuel at WOT. Regardless, it does work.
Why do you think that? How does it divert boost pressure off the power valve if they use the same power valve design? Do you have a video running one on boost by chance? Genuinely curious
Very informative video as allways man, but damn it threw me off when you had to enlarge the idle feed restrictior channels for this (lol never had to even look at ifr on my NA build) guess part three will explain it
Hey be careful with the SS needle and seats. I tried converting a 4150 to E85 blow through and put in .150" needle and seat. There was not enough buoyant force on the float to actually seal the needle and seat shut due to the larger are of the .150". I tested this because with the bowl on the car it would overfill and start to flood the engine. Taking the bowl off the car and hooking up the fuel pump feed to the bowl, I was able to simply hold the float up with my hands and seal off the needle and seat. But with the buoyant force of the float by itself it doesn't. The pro systems carb I have for E85 blow through is dual needle and seat and they still use viton tips
I double checked my needles after editing this video and my old alcohol demon actually had stainless .150 needles. The tip was round smooth. I do remember that in the beginning, I did have trouble getting the needles to seal when I went down to gasoline. Swapped to a larger return line on my bypass style regulator and lowered the base pressure a touch and they've been holding ever since. 7 months and several thousand miles. I'm not saying they can all be made to work, but the ones I had I did manage to save. With that being said, dual needles are a much better way to feed a carb 100%
Good Morning my Brother!!! Excellent information as usual. Love and appreciate all of your content. I wish I had your awesome skills! Do you think your blow-thru carb would work well with a Procharger? And, Why would you or anyone run 25 lbs of fuel pressure for a carb? Is it because of the boost? I run N/A on a built 429/460 but only run 7 lb fuel pressure. Thanks for sharing, Cheers and blessings from Motown/Dearborn.
If you missed part 1, here it is! ua-cam.com/video/p88OHXFnVC4/v-deo.html
I like adding a supplemental fuel injector working off a pressure switch in the intake tube before the carburetor as a more simple solution. Thanks for the video
You can do that. It was a common thing to do back when I uses to work on turbocharged hondas 10+ years ago. With a properly built carb, you can tune for the whole curve instead of just dumping fuel at WOT. Regardless, it does work.
I think you would benefit from a eldebrock vrs-4150 over these set ups because the secondary air bleed off valves and all the other adjustments.
And it can handle boost. Even though it's not made for boost.
The vrs-4150 won't have the slamming power valve problem.
Why do you think that? How does it divert boost pressure off the power valve if they use the same power valve design? Do you have a video running one on boost by chance? Genuinely curious
Very informative video as allways man, but damn it threw me off when you had to enlarge the idle feed restrictior channels for this (lol never had to even look at ifr on my NA build) guess part three will explain it
Didn't wanna spoil all of the fun 😎
Interesting video is there a part 3?
Right here ua-cam.com/video/bdKC-c4TbcA/v-deo.htmlsi=IghXcIMMO5KtUKVW 👍
Hey be careful with the SS needle and seats. I tried converting a 4150 to E85 blow through and put in .150" needle and seat. There was not enough buoyant force on the float to actually seal the needle and seat shut due to the larger are of the .150". I tested this because with the bowl on the car it would overfill and start to flood the engine. Taking the bowl off the car and hooking up the fuel pump feed to the bowl, I was able to simply hold the float up with my hands and seal off the needle and seat. But with the buoyant force of the float by itself it doesn't.
The pro systems carb I have for E85 blow through is dual needle and seat and they still use viton tips
I double checked my needles after editing this video and my old alcohol demon actually had stainless .150 needles. The tip was round smooth. I do remember that in the beginning, I did have trouble getting the needles to seal when I went down to gasoline. Swapped to a larger return line on my bypass style regulator and lowered the base pressure a touch and they've been holding ever since. 7 months and several thousand miles. I'm not saying they can all be made to work, but the ones I had I did manage to save. With that being said, dual needles are a much better way to feed a carb 100%
Good Morning my Brother!!! Excellent information as usual. Love and appreciate all of your content. I wish I had your awesome skills! Do you think your blow-thru carb would work well with a Procharger? And, Why would you or anyone run 25 lbs of fuel pressure for a carb? Is it because of the boost? I run N/A on a built 429/460 but only run 7 lb fuel pressure. Thanks for sharing, Cheers and blessings from Motown/Dearborn.
Thank you sir! Check this video out, it has the answer to your question ua-cam.com/video/HYElRJoWIHI/v-deo.html
You need to add a lb of fuel pressure for every lb of boost. That's why you boost reference the fuel pump/regulator.
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This is all over the place just tell us what you did to get it to work
Its a 3 video series, its not just 1 thing. If it was that easy, everyone would be doing it. Theres a reason people charge $600+ for the conversion
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