So here is some information for all of you interested in these. They are called "over load springs" or "heavy Duty springs", they are designed to be larger and haul more weight then stock. Stock springs are .408 thickness, these are .437 thickness. This is a huge difference. Polaris did make a midrange size also but not popular so it was stopped. Most of these springs are harder to find as Polaris only makes a few a year as its being fazed out(sleds older then 20 years old). You can find these on partszilla or aftermarket retailers or even ebay. OEM springs cost about 115 each. Aftermarkets are alot cheaper $50 each most cases but make sure of the thickness. Yes you can adjust the block but the springs help even more. I am 250 and with a passenger I bottom out on highest level. New Heavy duty springs and I don't huge help! Only other thing I will say is yes you can change these out with only removing 4 back bolts and lifting sled rear high in the air for clearance. Although it is a lot easier to removed all 6 bolts and removed skid from the track.
Also if it was me, I change out the stock 6 bolts with grade 8s from my local hardware store, on reinstallation use alittle thread locker-low strength blue for example. Nothing worse then one gets loose or breaks.
Could you of changed the springs by just taking out 4 bolts leaving the front 2 bolts in and let the carriage swing down far enough to take the wheel off and slide the new springs on?
hoping to get some help from the community. i am having issues getting out the rear bolts on a short track. they are spinning and the lock collar/retainer ring 5010155 is rotating with it and i cant remove the back bolts to remove the skid. can someone give me assistance?
I saw your video and I didn't see the part number for your new spring.i tried to order from deniskirk and royal distribution and my local snow mobile shop and they don't have have them only oem eny idea greatly appreciated thanks
Thanks for replying! I have the exact same sled (1998) and my suspension doesn't rebound and it bottoms out, especially 2 up. I'm not really sure what to replace and if the torsion springs will really be enough. I've been reading a TON of threads on this problem. Some say its fine its not supposed to rebound, some say it should... I know the xtra 12 is designed for smoother trails and around here that doesn't happen too often. So, when you get on the sled how much does it compress? Also, do you ever have to pull up to get another 3-4 inches rise out of it? I'm not sure what is normal and what isn't for this sled. I've already checked and my front skid shock is turned up, the torsion spring adjustments are too, the rear shock has the blocks set to high. Many have mentioned the slides too, ever change yours? Any and all help is appreciated!
Also, could you happen to post a video of the rear suspension functioning? I would love to see a video of this sled basically sitting as high as it should, then have you get on it, then off of it, then pull the rear end up. This would really help me compare mine to a good one. If measured it in each position that would be super helpful too!
If easier, since I'm trying to do the work tomorrow friday 2/17, could you provide the measurements here? (fully extended/no weight height, weight height, after weight height)
bflo716 i can make a video in the am. i ended up having to replace the front track shock and spring as well thats what really made a difference between it bottoming out and not
@@AdventuresInLiving part number? Yes. I'm looking to do the same - but, do not want to buy the stock springs - need heavier spring (as you show in the video) along with stiffer shocks. I'm a big guy (250) and I bottom out when in the woods on the trails.
@@edbennett1751 this will def help then. i can now ride 2 up with no bottoming out. ill get the part number here at lunch time and post it for you tonight
Yes u can but the stock Springs are stock much thinner. He obviously bought the thicker replacement Springs and for good reason the stock ones wear over 15 years or so most definitely if it's been beat then even worse
Notice the new spring doesnt have any gaps between the windings? Once the spring starts making gaps between the windings it is losing its torsion. Also the suspension should be adjusted so that it drops no more than 1 1/2" when the riders are on.
Why didn't you mention that you needed to loosen the bolts for the rear bogey wheels. Loosening the tension bolts alone doesn't help. Otherwise fair video. And they're called helper springs.
So here is some information for all of you interested in these. They are called "over load springs" or "heavy Duty springs", they are designed to be larger and haul more weight then stock. Stock springs are .408 thickness, these are .437 thickness. This is a huge difference. Polaris did make a midrange size also but not popular so it was stopped. Most of these springs are harder to find as Polaris only makes a few a year as its being fazed out(sleds older then 20 years old). You can find these on partszilla or aftermarket retailers or even ebay. OEM springs cost about 115 each. Aftermarkets are alot cheaper $50 each most cases but make sure of the thickness.
Yes you can adjust the block but the springs help even more. I am 250 and with a passenger I bottom out on highest level. New Heavy duty springs and I don't huge help!
Only other thing I will say is yes you can change these out with only removing 4 back bolts and lifting sled rear high in the air for clearance. Although it is a lot easier to removed all 6 bolts and removed skid from the track.
Also if it was me, I change out the stock 6 bolts with grade 8s from my local hardware store, on reinstallation use alittle thread locker-low strength blue for example. Nothing worse then one gets loose or breaks.
Good to know. Thank you :) for the tip
Could you of changed the springs by just taking out 4 bolts leaving the front 2 bolts in and let the carriage swing down far enough to take the wheel off and slide the new springs on?
That little block that the spring is on. Take a wrench and turn it to the high setting. Makes springs a little tighter if you need
ok cool thank you
hoping to get some help from the community. i am having issues getting out the rear bolts on a short track. they are spinning and the lock collar/retainer ring 5010155 is rotating with it and i cant remove the back bolts to remove the skid. can someone give me assistance?
Part number for the springs, and do you think they will fit a 1998 classic Touring
I saw your video and I didn't see the part number for your new spring.i tried to order from deniskirk and royal distribution and my local snow mobile shop and they don't have have them only oem eny idea greatly appreciated thanks
The part numbers are in the video description below the video . I ordered mine from a polaris dealer by me
Can you provide a part number number on springs, and do you think the springs will fit a 1998 Polaris Indy Classic Touring thanks
its in the video description
Big thx
My pleasure I like to help when I can
Hi I saw your video on charging torsion spring to a more heavy duty ones could you please send me the part number thanks
The part number is in the video description
How long did this take from start to finish?
+bflo716 about 30 min
Thanks for replying! I have the exact same sled (1998) and my suspension doesn't rebound and it bottoms out, especially 2 up. I'm not really sure what to replace and if the torsion springs will really be enough. I've been reading a TON of threads on this problem. Some say its fine its not supposed to rebound, some say it should... I know the xtra 12 is designed for smoother trails and around here that doesn't happen too often. So, when you get on the sled how much does it compress? Also, do you ever have to pull up to get another 3-4 inches rise out of it? I'm not sure what is normal and what isn't for this sled. I've already checked and my front skid shock is turned up, the torsion spring adjustments are too, the rear shock has the blocks set to high. Many have mentioned the slides too, ever change yours?
Any and all help is appreciated!
Also, could you happen to post a video of the rear suspension functioning? I would love to see a video of this sled basically sitting as high as it should, then have you get on it, then off of it, then pull the rear end up. This would really help me compare mine to a good one. If measured it in each position that would be super helpful too!
If easier, since I'm trying to do the work tomorrow friday 2/17, could you provide the measurements here? (fully extended/no weight height, weight height, after weight height)
bflo716 i can make a video in the am. i ended up having to replace the front track shock and spring as well thats what really made a difference between it bottoming out and not
Where did you get these springs?
amazon.com ill see if i can get the link for you here tonight when i get home
@@AdventuresInLiving I would like the part numbers too!
I added the part number to the description
Where did you get the parts?
Polaris dealership. If you need part number let me know
@@AdventuresInLiving part number? Yes. I'm looking to do the same - but, do not want to buy the stock springs - need heavier spring (as you show in the video) along with stiffer shocks. I'm a big guy (250) and I bottom out when in the woods on the trails.
@@edbennett1751 this will def help then. i can now ride 2 up with no bottoming out. ill get the part number here at lunch time and post it for you tonight
go to partzilla.com prices are a lot cheaper than the dealership
I would like to get the part number also thanks
you know instead of buying the new torsion springs you could have just adjusted them.
+yammilover had already tried that. was to fat lol and the ild ones were wore ou
Yes u can but the stock Springs are stock much thinner. He obviously bought the thicker replacement Springs and for good reason the stock ones wear over 15 years or so most definitely if it's been beat then even worse
Monica Candice way better ride now
Notice the new spring doesnt have any gaps between the windings? Once the spring starts making gaps between the windings it is losing its torsion. Also the suspension should be adjusted so that it drops no more than 1 1/2" when the riders are on.
Why didn't you mention that you needed to loosen the bolts for the rear bogey wheels. Loosening the tension bolts alone doesn't help. Otherwise fair video. And they're called helper springs.