I loved the video, but I can never decide how I feel about this sort of restoration. Ultimately I guess the question is, do you want an original object in your collection or an object that looks substantially better, but which is part faithful reproduction? I don't know why I'm perfectly ok with replacing broken parts inside an old computer to make it work, but at the same time am conflicted about having visible parts replaced.
I totally concur. However, it's borderline OCD.. ah who are we kidding here.. it's FULL OCD ;) *Almost* as severe as that other guy who handpaints holiday lights bulbs.
I swear to god that there is better programming on UA-cam than on cable TV. At least stuff like this could easily be a better tv show than a lot of documentary type stuff on cable today.
Yeah. there's less time and content constraints, so they can make the video they want however long they want, so their content is going to be better. I would much rather watch a good 10 minute video than a mediocre 20-25 minute one.
When you cut out the labels, leave small handles that protrude from a few sides. You can use the handles to move the label into place after you spray adhesive on it. Then you just make a small incision with the razor blade to snip off the handle you left. If there is a printed border, extend the color of the border slightly into the handles to avoid any white flecks of paper left over if your incision isn't exactly precise.
Yes, and also a better razor blade will help prevent fuzzy edges. A good, fresh and sharp straight razor blade, or if you're feeling fancy go for a small Xacto. I like to do my cutting on cardboard rather than cutting board, and if I'm doing a curve or circle, turn the paper (and pad) and pull it through the knife rather than trying to draw a circle.
He got glue on his fingers and had to work with the back of his knuckle to avoid spreading it. His standard practice of spraying on the device itself is ok as long as he can mask the gaps fine. The hard one for this device would have been around the joysticks to make sure spray didn't get inside the holes nor on the joysticks.
Mr. Murray, I'd love to be your neighbor. I'd love to help you with all the stuff you do. Not so much the technical stuff, like repairs and things, although, I'd also love to learn that from you, but I could help with the easier stuff, like opening things up and maybe taking care of the retrobrite stuff, so you'd have time to get things done faster. Which translates to possibly MORE videos. I have learned so much from watching your channel. You, by far, are my most favorite "GEEK TECH" on here. That's saying a lot because there is a lot of other tm"teckies" on here, esoecially the ones that may have been on your "SHOW", or ones you have mentioned. I guess I can relate to things you do because, when I was younger, I had various games, not so much in the way of computers, but video games and any other simple electronics and I would at times disassemble them and attempt to repair them. It was fun. Anyway, out of all my most favorite people on here, you, Paul Short, and The Crazy Russian Hacker, are, by far, my most favorite youtube "STARS". Once I am able to, financially, I am going to help you out through Patreon. I feel your stuff is that important. For the most part, I believe if kids would learn stuff like this, it could potentially keep them at home more, and out of trouble, and learn a valuable trade, possibly, one day. You are truely the best. I hear that Louisville, KY and maybe Lexington, KY have some sort of gaming expos, I believe. It would be cool if one day you got to come to one of these. It would be possible to get to meet you in person and thank you personally for these great videos and for keeping me "sane" while I stay home and try to get better, after 2 surgeries and possibly more to come. GOD Bless, you sir.
That Donkey Kong mini cabinet flooded me with a wave of nostalgia. My grand parents had one when I was a kid and I remember when we'd go visit them in Houston my brother and I would race each other to play that thing 😂 They didn't have many toys at their house so it was one of the most entertaining things we had to do during our visits, lol.
You just blew my mind when you turned off the light and the flicker went away..... WOW!! Another great episode, and very well made. You and TechMoan have SERIOUSLY raised the bar for not only Tech videos on UA-cam, but any information based video production across the internet as a whole.
About that black gunk: Probably way after the fact, but mine also had that when I originally got it as a kid. Years later after seeing yours, I believe some black pellets or residual black plastic from a previous use was in the mold used at the factory. No idea how many it affected, but I thought you'd like to know.
Looks like burnt melted plastic. If they're ABS shells, and it fused, it's basically a part of the case now, hence why even scrapping it didn't remove it fully.
Wow...that’s really interesting. I was wondering why the discoloration actually penetrated so deep into the plastic. Your explanation makes sense...also because if you noticed...once he got the label off on that part of the unit...there was more black discoloration beneath the label- and the label had no damage.
Also, WD40 is a poor cleaner/solvent and was not its intended use. It gives me cringe to see him use it. There are half a dozen better solutions. "Goo gone" is much better. If the black was an inherent manufacturing artifact as you suggest then an alternative would be to match the color of cabinet and paint it. Or possibly use colored tape - if color was close enough.
I have a full arcade (about 20 little arcades). Love those things! Sometimes I'll start them all and run them at the same time to make it sound like the arcade used to. Glad I found your channel! Good stuff.
Same. I think it's the perfect 'starter' episode for The 8-Bit Guy's channel because it's got a combination of the things he does a lot. Namely, restoring electronics, relabeling (that was only one time, but still) and comparing newer versions of older tech/games to their originals.
Funny that i realize now i missed this the first time i watched this video. My mom taught me a nice technique for cleaning up all those nasty dots without the painstaking work of doing it manually and risking altering the thickness of the lines. Once you have removed the color you can convert the image to 2bit (black and white) and then back to full color this will perfectly flatten all the lines then you can fill the lines with any other color this will leave only the messy black dots unconnected to the main mass as black, then you can fill all the white spaces with black and then white again to clean up the dots. My mom taught me this around 15 years ago actually on paint shop pro kek.
Wow, what a great presentation! Not many UA-cam presenters or even professional tv presenters grab my attention and get me enthralled as you have! You sir are a wizard in both slick presentation and the environment you use for your program! Love your discovery at 23:40 of 2 games on the same PCB! Congratulations, I will be watching your whole series.
Those mystery melt marks are caused by a certain type of rubber resting on the plastic for long, dormant periods of time. An example is the type of rubber cheap balloons are made of, resting on hard brittle type plastics toys are made of. GI Joe toys from the 1970's are notorious for that condition. For shallow melts, I use 00 grade steel wool and car polish. And to remove labels, heat them up with a hair dryer, they peel right off.
Kinda seems unfair that the new Pac-Man game had a primitive segmented display, while the others had a proper dot matrix LCD with much, much more rich gameplay. Do they all cost the same?
I own that Pac-Man mini arcade with the screen like Q-bert and Centipede and is just like the actual arcade. He just grabbed the cheaper version of Pac-Man.🤷♂️
@@chucknorriss5452 no, he grabbed an earlier version of Pac-man. Basic Fun (the company releasing the modern arcade cabinets you see in the video) released the monochrome LCD version, then they introduced the color LCD version, then they made another version with the same cabinet as the color LCD version, but with no mode button, and a dot matrix display with a custom ROM inside, then they made a color LCD version with the same cabinet as the monochrome LCD version, then they released a new Pac-man with the dot matrix display and custom ROM with the original cabinet design. And finally, they released a color LCD cabinet with the slimmer cabinet shape of the monochrome LCD cabinet, but with the original cabinet design on it. He didn't buy a cheaper version, he bought an earlier, more primitive version.
Could really be anything. There's a lot of things that eat away/react to plastic. Like, don't ever leave an eraser on things. Always make sure it's the protective case and not the eraser itself touching whatever it is on top of, because they can melt onto some plastics and stick to varnish on wooden tables (leaving a mark), etc. I've also had the soles of a pair of shoes start to melt basically on their own in storage and make a mess. One shoe being on top of the other and both of them on top of some basic, laminated cardboard box, both soles happily starting to melt into rubber sludge and sticking to whatever they were touching. So, the game may have simply been lying in a toy box with some other item on top of it. The thing is that it can be two seemingly inert substances reacting to each other, so the stuff may not be just some crud you can easily clean off. Get the right combination and they can melt on and bond and penetrate into each other. I suppose you might be able to find some solvent to remove most of it, but it might involve solvents that soften the plastic itself and for some of the plastics it means some vicious substances releasing toxic vapours, etc.
JASC PAINT SHOP PRO!!!!! YES! Finally someone else who uses this! I have been using that for nearly 20 years myself. I primarily use it for certain things these days but it still holds a special place in my toolset.
The solder pads on the board are what's called "test points". They're used during manufacturing to test the circuit to be sure it's working properly. It's also useful for repairs, if you have a service manual detailing what each testpoint should have in it (voltage, signal shape, signal frequency, etc).
These early portable games are really interesting from a technical standpoint. They use 4 bit microcontrollers usually running at 20-50Khz and have built in ROM, RAM, and drivers for segmented LCDs/VFDs. The MB Microvision and the Game and Watch uses them as well.
why am i so into watching your videos is still completely beyond me months later. I'm so pro technology and even get angry sometimes when people try to make old things sound so amazing just because of nostalgia. However, you somehow keep me incredibly interested and have taught me SO much about older hardware. I am 23 and also Romanian (we got stuff much later than the rest of the world) so I wouldn't know about all this stuff otherwise. Thanks for the great channel!
This is the video that got me into watching David ever since I've watched him and enjoyed all his videos nice to go back and rewatch what started it for me
7 років тому+58
The solder pads marked 'T'are for testing purposes. It seems like an SPI bus actually, the column of 2x3 at the left of the PCB. That means it is programmed after it has been put together and thus one could indeed hack another ROM in it.
I would imagine that's because different developers made them and they are just distributed by the same company. I am not quite sure if it's the case, but this is common with the video game industry. For example the Call of Duty franchise is developed by 3 different game companies.
They were released at different times, but the fact they all sell for the same price was surprising. Also surprising the centipede/Qbert board was labelled in plain English and don't know why he didn't then open the frogger machine out of curiosity. Those machines seem like a good deal as a base for a diy pi zero build.
New subscriber here, I am 47 years old. Those tabletop games take me back to a time when nothing mattered. You woke up, plan fun for the day, no stress. "I don't want to grow up, I'm a toys r us kid, there's a million things at toys r us that I can play with!"
You can get a rubber roller to press the label evenly, after it's set in place. If you're going to relable machines with controlers, a hole punch set may also be a good idea.
WHOA! Flashback! My brother got the Pac-man game for Christmas many many years ago. I remember being a little kid and watching him play over his shoulder for hours on end. Sometimes he even let me play it! Man did that thing chew through batteries. And that music/sound effects... true nostalgia! Thank you for making this video.
9:25 About cleaning the image, you can always use a morphology open operation (for example OpenCV could do that just fine) to "erode" the image first, then "dilate" back. It'll clean most of those scattered pixels.
"A lot of people had an aneurism when they saw that I recreated my labels for my cartridges" I just know one of the people that was aimed at was Pat the NES punk XD
i don't have a dog in this fight, but from what i recall about the anger over the original label replacement video it wasn't that HE is doing it for HIS stuff, it's that he's unintentionally making a how-to video for scammers to try to trick would-be collectors. from my point of view, his technique results in something way too glossy to be confused with the originals.
Honestly.. what's wrong with RESTORING something to a near original condition? From what I remember he has always been as faithful as possible to the original sticker, which I have no problem with. It would be different if he was replacing the stick with something entirely different. And, on top of that, the stickers he replaces are usually in pretty bad shape. Like, when a building needs repair do you just let it fall down to 'preserve' its original condition? No! Why not treat our electronics the same?
gravecactus I suppose too that future owners/dealers, long after The 8 Bit Guy's CMOS battery dies and 20th c objets tech are coveted like Bester's Flowered Thundermug, may not be so scrupulous or diligent in pointing these things out.
Norah Jones Facing a similar dilemma here with a 1920s portable gramophone that needs new leather cloth on the case. Purists would say to leave it alone, but so long as you do it well and carefully, using the right material, where's the harm? I'd much rather see it look factory new than like junk in the interests of collectors who would never pay top price anyway, despite going on and on about it...
I'm all for restoring something to its original condition. Why not? Why let it deteriorate when it can be preserved?People just like to complain about things. Restoration happens all the time An example would be the Sistine Chapel: tinyurl.com/y7gl847g
Man, I am thoroughly impressed with your range of skills and things you do. I've caught a handful of your videos so far and just want you to know I appreciate all of your effort!
8:59 Paint Shop Pro was great! THE best "Photoshop wannabe" and it was my go-to program for scanning, inking and coloring my pencil sketches. Best $79 I ever spent (in 1999).
Same! That was the best Christmas morning ever, except for fighting with my cousins, there being 4 of us and only 3 games. Well, 4 games but nobody wanted to play that stupid knock-off Coleco football game that our Drunkle bought.
Awesome review video my friend! I had the Coleco PAC-Man in 82 and was obsessed with it but the sound drove me nuts!!! It was awesome to see you clean it and restore it! Man that brought back memories thanks
I started off in Paintshop in the 90s too. However I learned Photoshop on about 12 years ago to an expert level. Erasing those stray pixels in Photoshop now takes a couple seconds if you know what your doing, it is just a time saver. To tell the truth, I sometimes use MS paint just because it loads so much faster than PS if I need to do a quick edit.
Yes I agree and yes I had Atari 2600 as a kid. Oh and yes the Original Pac-Man really sucks for Atari 2600. All the lighter incarnations were much much much better.
Also does anyone remember Pac-Man jr. For Atari 2600? Best Pac-Man game ever. and I was able to rack up thousands upon thousands of points without losing a life. O buy the way there is a video on UA-cam. About the AI of the Pac-Man ghosts in the original. And yes they were not actually fixed patterns. Mostly. One ghost would actually pursue Pac-Man. And shutch.
OMG I'm not the only one who still uses Paint Shop Pro 7 for image manipulation! It was the last version of that software that was still fast and nimble, before its creators decided they needed to go after Photoshop and made version 8 slow as molasses. I'm not doing any kind of serious graphic design, so PSP7 does most everything I need it to, I'm proficient with it, and so I have no incentive to learn something like Photoshop either.
It's stopped working for me - some recentish Windows 10 update (pre Creator's) has killed it. No amount of tweaking and compatibility settings will fix it :(
I still have and use an old copy of JASC paintshop pro 9 that still seems to work just fine. However, I do use the newer versions on my home PC. I use the older one at work.
PSP versions from 8 onwards are completely different to the preceding versions, and (I think) developed by a different team after JASC was bought by Corel. I'm not surprised the more modern versions still work. PSP7 worked on every subsequent version of Windows until an update in 10 borked it.
Lucky you, it happened on my desktop when some update came either late last year or early this one, when the same update came to my laptop it happened again. Months later, I format and reinstall on my desktop. Yay, PSP7 is working. Updates are forced on me, because Microsoft are assholes. Bang, PSP7 not working again.
@@robcohen7678 I honestly wonder how you could see MS Paint on screen somewhere in the footage. I mean, every person who ever used a computer, used or just know Paint as well, especially it didn't change at all for decades (well, almost). It's like Tetris, Pampers, Cola etc.
Highly recommend using some kind of non-yellowing acrylic fixative spray on both sides of the label after printing. It will protect the ink from UV fading issues and probably keep adhesive from seeping through from the back. The lamination is essential for physical protection, but will not protect the ink underneath from any kind of humidity or moisture seeping in from behind or around the edges of the paper. Any art supply store will carry a good archival-quality fixative spray in gloss or satin. Get yourself a set of proper precision X-Acto knives while you're at it. Utility knives just aren't made for that kind of work.
I still use an old Paint Shop Pro too! I previously used Photoshop back in the day, when I worked in a tech job, but it contains far too many features that I need. As a tattooist creating new designs it has all I need. Great video by the way, I'm a retro enthusiast, and am enthralled with all things pi at the moment. Maybe one day I'll start a channel documenting my many builds with my raspberry and orange pi boards. :)
I didn't see this till now but my favorite thing about it is that he uses an old version of Paint Shop Pro. I've been using 6.02 for as long as its been out... so 19 years now.
Just a tip for you to recreate images, it will save you allot of time. CorelDraw is an amazing tool convert the graphics to vector, had many great results with it. Did this for example with a photo of bally Midway's Domino man, result is awesome. It is the build-in CorelTrace feature (perimeter cover) which allow you to create vector shapes of an image, it is really amazing. I am also a fan of paintshop pro, and like you using an older version, I am using version 7 from 2000, king in color rearrangement. So what you can do to remove the color 'noise' is by reducing the color depth. Another thing is scaling, increase the image size (huge!), reduce the colors with optimized Octree (and edit the pallete if not the right color), set the colors back (increase to 24 bit), add a little blur and rescale it back. You can get great results with it.
+Stu I doubt he was that comfortable fixing the dirt pixels off every line, which could be done in three clicks and simple filters even in Paint.NET . Every year it's less reason to hold on to software that slows you down so much.
It is refering to the demo mode that is deactivated once you pull out the tabs in the back, notice the box says TRY ME! on it. Also you can see that the wires sodered onto it go to the small device the tabs would have been slotted into on the back of the machine.
I had the classic frogger tabletop exactly like the one in this video @ 17:55. I spent so many hours playing that thing. It eventually broke and my mom tossed it out when I went to college. If only it was still kicking around my attic I'd fix it up in a heartbeat just as a conversational piece in the living room~
I was at Target today and found an Oregon Trail mini game with what looks like the MS DOS version of the game housed in a chunky IBM computer look a like case . You should check it out.
I was so excited to buy my first full X-Acto set in years, and a Wally World. (found it online). Oh my, has the quality fell off the map. The larger plastic handle.. soo cheap compared to the originals of years ago. :(
or better yet, get a hole punch from harbor freight or something LOL, I used a smaller hole punch so many times for cutting out holes in plastic and card stock it is not even funny, and it always worked out fantastic. (also works on leather rather than using those crap hole punches from tandy ha ha.
I cheered when you paused to mention Paint Shop Pro. I was a PSP adherent, first with shareware and later supporting retail releases. I miss using it, having moved on to Gimp years ago. If I find myself digging through old boxes, I'll be sure to see if I still have it because you've enticed me to go back.
Hey, David, if you ever need to do something like this again, where you need to reproduce labels that have cut-outs, specifically circular ones, try getting a bit of pipe with a similar inner-diameter (you could theoretically use a pipe with with a similar outer diameter, but it might be a bit more difficult unless you have something with a small sanding tool), sharpen it to where the inner wall is the top of a very sharp die, and whack the other end of the pipe with a hammer or dead blow mallet to cut it out. I'm sure I could have explained this better, so, I do apologize for that.
I use this technique all the time The largest one I needed was about an inch and 1/8 wide so I used a piece of 1" conduit and filed it until it was sharp (it took forever)
He did a great job restoring those old mini tabletop arcades..he can always resell them in better conditions than they were before..easier for him to resell
I'm thinking that discolored spot could actually be a burn mark. Somehow, the plastic got scorched by something, but wasn't enough to actually melt it. Maybe someone had the game too close to a heater or something? The fact that it wouldn't come off with all those chemical cleaners suggests that the plastic was actually damaged by something.
ct92404 I remember leaving a couple hand held video games a little too close to baseboard heaters and it ended up looking something like this. You may be right. I may be crazy...
Chris Jones yeah, I've seen heat damage on plastic before that looked exactly like that - like kind of a brown spot. No amount of cleaning will get that off, because the plastic is actually scorched. You'd have to paint it or sand it off or something.
Thank you for the video, brought back a lot of memories for me..... My grandmother used to work at midway making the boards for Pac-Man, so she had one of these mini games. IDK if she bought it or the employees were given one or what not, but I do remember sitting at hear house on the holidays with my family and everyone took turns playing it. Never did find out what happened too it, but liked seeing it and hearing the sounds again :)
LOL! I use Paint Shop Pro 5 also! Sometimes, newer isn't always better. :) Also, to help you out in the future when creating reproduction labels like this. When you need to spray adhesive but can't handle the label manually, use suction cups on the outward facing side like the original manufacturers had to place the labels without hand-holding them.
Same here! lol... I still prefer Photoshop for a lot of things but I find PSP 5 much easier to work with for web images.. Corel really did a number on this program when they took ownership over JASC :mad:
Yep, sometimes newer isn't better. But in this case, newer IS better. Sure, newer programs will take time to learn, but the fact is, newer paint programs have more features and are more easy to learn.
You're right. Colour wise, the original shot has the slightly 'green' look caused by low CRI lighting whereas the second is much more vibrant and natural.
21:50 wow, i'm actually pretty impressed by this "Asteroids". the segment display looks so complicated, it might've been easier to use a hi-res LCD display instead. lol.
Hoping the higher end modern versions used a TFT display with real MAME instead of segmented display. Boo! Except Q-bert, Centipede and Frogger. That cluster of 6 pads T19-24 are most likely JTAG or similar serial programming port. I can see the GND and V+ terminal in the group of 6. Just need to identify what chip they are using and hack away.
There seems to be this kind of machine in China, which are tabletop arcades(though they are much more larger than what is shown in the video, they are still qualified as "tabletop") that run NeoGeo/CPS games via some kind of emulation.
Those modern consoles showed in the video are just NES-on-Chip devices, which is nothing more than a very tiny NES. However the "NeoGeo tabletop" I mentioned seems to be based on x86 architecture, or to say, a computer with an emulator.
Wow, I thought I was the oonly one who still uses Paint Shop Pro... It looks like you're using PSP7, which is the same version I use... Here's a pro tip for recoloring it: to turn it back into line art, increase the image size to 200-400% of original, then go to Colors, Adjust, Threshold, and adjust that until all you have left are the lines. Recolor it with flood fill, then shrink it back down to the original size The reason for increasing the resolution is that threshold introduces jaggies. By working in a higher resolution, and then shrinking it back down to anti-alias the jaggies out.
Most of the solder pads are labelled TXX where XX is a number. They're basically test points to debug the PCB back during development in the labs. They should be crucial signals like clocks, voltages and reset. But there's another pad labelled E something and the 'E' may mean Enable!
I had that pacman one when i was a kid. The contols have a habit of malfuctioning. There are metal strips under each control which snap after a while. I had to get someone to solder them back regularly so i could keep playing. Good video. Thanks for the memories. All the best.
Sorry if this has been asked before but two things sorta bugged me: 1) I know the razor knife you're using is "good enough" but why not go out and get an x-acto knife that might let you cut those sorts of things easier. They're only about $5-$8. 2) Does the version of PaintShopPro come with a color picker tool? Instead of guessing what colors are which if you had that sorta tool you could just write down the hex of each color used and match it more exactly that way. Surprised the Centipede game came with Q*bert but I guess in retrospect it makes sense. Why spend and make two different models when you can just make one with both on there? Anyway, thanks for the videos!
ItinerantSoldier, TBF the picker tool is not ideal when used with a scanned document, it can pick a lot of different values for a same area, especially when the original print is old, and it looks like he was trying to match the original color, and maybe make some adjustments compared to the faded one.
If they make one with both games, people would only buy one machine and get two games for the price of one. They want to capitalize as much as they can, while making the manufacturing process as easy as switching a label and soldering a connection ;-)
Yes, but unless his monitor covers most of the color gamut and his eyes are near superhuman sharp at discerning hues, it won't be more efficient than using the hex code from a color pick on the most consistent areas of the image if you're worried about accuracy.
Don't use finger to hold stickers. Use tweezer to hold the stickers, not with your hand. It makes it much easier and more accurate when sticking on. And fingers always ruin the gluing surface and hard to position it. Trust me on this one.
I just picked up a Centipede and Frogger today from my local Walmart and looks like there is a change in the boards. My centipede does not contain Q’Bert and nothing extra on the Frogger board.... bummed I was really hoping to mod them to have two games in one. Trying to track down the Rampage one next
Steven Deleon sure it is, I never miss a chance to pile on and have a laugh at an idiot like yourself. By the way it’s spelled “your”, you’re is a contraction for “you are”.
Hi there 8-bit guy,this was great to watch. I never knew about these mini tabletop games either until now. Well done with the restorations,good to see someone enjoy what they do.
There are actual remakes of the Coleco tabletops out there that look almost identical to the old ones, only modernized; I think they use color LCD displays and the controls are a little different. I actually thought this video was going to be comparing the originals and remakes. I still enjoyed it though, great job on restoring the Donkey Kong game.
It's an NES on-a-chip; Q*Bert *is* the NES version with a few minor tweaks, and Centipede is the same weird "7800-alike" version from the old Atari Flashback console. AFAIK the pads numbered T-XX are just test points for a bed of nails during manufacture although it's not impossible that there may be accessible JTAG/I2C headers somewhere. My guess would be that the empty component slots may simply be remnants of this board being used in other products (a plug-and-play console, etc.). (Also, I strongly suggest you upgrade to more modern/powerful image editing software -- that would have been a 2 minute job in Photoshop!)
Mat Hall, lets not forget to take into account that David might simply enjoy the process of making the labels using the older software. If so I can relate, but agree there are times that using filters or other operations in PS can save tons of time and there are uses for that.
+Onslaught Six First, because he wants to preserve the original look (aside from the "reproduction label" bit, of course). Second, because he doesn't want to risk a copyright hit. High resolution art from Google Images, unless it is explicitly public domain, is copyrighted. He could be sued if he uses it. (Highly unlikely, since he's only using it to replace the decals on one machine that's going in his private collection for the next decade or two, but it's plausible, especially because it is being shown in a monetized video.)
He could have made a better job even in Paint Shop Pro, by painting the stray pixels white before turning the image to black & white. But yeah, I guess that if he used some free Photoshop-like program (Krita? GIMP?) he could've achieved a better result, by editing the color channels or isolating the black color.
Thanks for the trip down memory lane. My brother and I had the Galaxian game of the old tabletops, which plays and looks great for a table top adaptation. There was also a cool AC adapter kit available that used hollow batteries that were little more than wires, and one of which attached to a 9V battery snap connector which went to the power brick side. The coolest thing we did with these games was invite other kids on our street over with their own games and set up a mini arcade in our basement. We had Galaxian, Pac Man, Q-bert, and Donkey Kong going. We tried to play our game in the middle of the night, but always got busted by our mother because Galaxian is so loud, so my brother installed a simple toggle switch to the speaker and drilled a hole in the case to fit it to the outside--early console mod :p
Man, I wouldn't worry about what people say -- your reproduction labels look amazing, and it's not like you're *ever* going to sell these items, right? You're not sticking them on eBay, telling folks "hey, look at these awesome all-original games with perfect labels." I wouldn't bother with that "reproduction" text on your new labels. You're not out there trying to rip people off by selling this stuff as if it were new and in perfect condition.
I'm assuming the 8-Bit Guy is going to be honest when he sells the stuff. But, if he does does sell it and the person that buys it decides to resell it, they might not be as honest or might forget that it's a reproduction
Timur Tripp Labeling reproduction labels is a good thing just in case the buyer or the buyer's grandchildren decide to sell it later on and don't disclose that information for whatever reason. It's a good way to protect the potential future consumer.
I had the Casio keyboard with the drum pads! I received it for Christmas in the late 80’s!! The 4 or 5 slides on the left would add different beats to sound. The rubber drum pads almost had to be hit in the center to register. That is amazing you have it on the wall and I recognize it so well. I’m pretty sure it came with a booklet and a cassette on how to play. Maybe some sheet music as well.
I always used paintshop pro also :D My friends used photoshop, but I prefered PSP. It also could use photoshop filters in the later versions i think. Then it was bought up by some other company and became crap :)
I have just finished watching your latest travelogue and for a change ,instead of squinting at the iPad, I have viewed on my new all singing and dancing 55inch LG tv, and what a joy, in fact absolutely bloody marvellous, the camera picture quality is spot on as is your laid back , down to earth presentations , I’m looking forward to the next episode, good work Ian, keep it up and don’t change a thing. Kind regards. Richard Halliday Yorkshire
7:20 That awkward moment you're so smart you just made your entire work harder. I like to philosophize those moments as "better safe than sorry" checkups, lol.
What hes doing here is complete restoration. And it's done in a very professional way. Good for him..
okie all we need to do now is slap in a rtx 2080 and a core i9 and then we can play pacman at 2fps
I loved the video, but I can never decide how I feel about this sort of restoration. Ultimately I guess the question is, do you want an original object in your collection or an object that looks substantially better, but which is part faithful reproduction? I don't know why I'm perfectly ok with replacing broken parts inside an old computer to make it work, but at the same time am conflicted about having visible parts replaced.
I totally concur. However, it's borderline OCD.. ah who are we kidding here.. it's FULL OCD ;)
*Almost* as severe as that other guy who handpaints holiday lights bulbs.
@@treborironwolfe978 I was going to disagree until it got to the 'sticker restoration' point.
@@jamescarter3196 ;)
I swear to god that there is better programming on UA-cam than on cable TV. At least stuff like this could easily be a better tv show than a lot of documentary type stuff on cable today.
You saying documentarys are bad? You can find those on UA-cam anyways
joseph fiorini they last about an hour, normal youtube videos last anywhere between 10-30 minutes of the same thing.
I haven't had cable for years
Yeah. there's less time and content constraints, so they can make the video they want however long they want, so their content is going to be better. I would much rather watch a good 10 minute video than a mediocre 20-25 minute one.
took you a while to figure out
The lone "solder pads" are actually test points for pin-bed testing.
Those 6(2x3) pads on the left are reminiscent of a JTAG. Perhaps that's the spot where the in-circuit system programming happened.
@@nullpointerworks4036 my thoughts exactly .🦄
If that's what they're for, send him the private message.
@@supercyberfunk Some folks, most folks actually, don't care for the attention like that.
When you cut out the labels, leave small handles that protrude from a few sides. You can use the handles to move the label into place after you spray adhesive on it. Then you just make a small incision with the razor blade to snip off the handle you left.
If there is a printed border, extend the color of the border slightly into the handles to avoid any white flecks of paper left over if your incision isn't exactly precise.
Rob Bates This.
Yes, and also a better razor blade will help prevent fuzzy edges. A good, fresh and sharp straight razor blade, or if you're feeling fancy go for a small Xacto. I like to do my cutting on cardboard rather than cutting board, and if I'm doing a curve or circle, turn the paper (and pad) and pull it through the knife rather than trying to draw a circle.
i dont see the point, his spraying and placing worked fine didnt it?
Scotch tape tabs would be even easier.
He got glue on his fingers and had to work with the back of his knuckle to avoid spreading it.
His standard practice of spraying on the device itself is ok as long as he can mask the gaps fine. The hard one for this device would have been around the joysticks to make sure spray didn't get inside the holes nor on the joysticks.
The TRUE American Do-It-Yourselfer:
*The 8-Bit Guy:* "I was unable to locate a schematic diagram for this board, so, I decided to make my own..."
sometimes you gotta YOLO it
*wasn’t
easy enough right? "look at the big brain on Brad!!" lol
Mr. Murray, I'd love to be your neighbor. I'd love to help you with all the stuff you do. Not so much the technical stuff, like repairs and things, although, I'd also love to learn that from you, but I could help with the easier stuff, like opening things up and maybe taking care of the retrobrite stuff, so you'd have time to get things done faster. Which translates to possibly MORE videos. I have learned so much from watching your channel. You, by far, are my most favorite "GEEK TECH" on here. That's saying a lot because there is a lot of other tm"teckies" on here, esoecially the ones that may have been on your "SHOW", or ones you have mentioned. I guess I can relate to things you do because, when I was younger, I had various games, not so much in the way of computers, but video games and any other simple electronics and I would at times disassemble them and attempt to repair them. It was fun. Anyway, out of all my most favorite people on here, you, Paul Short, and The Crazy Russian Hacker, are, by far, my most favorite youtube "STARS". Once I am able to, financially, I am going to help you out through Patreon. I feel your stuff is that important. For the most part, I believe if kids would learn stuff like this, it could potentially keep them at home more, and out of trouble, and learn a valuable trade, possibly, one day. You are truely the best. I hear that Louisville, KY and maybe Lexington, KY have some sort of gaming expos, I believe. It would be cool if one day you got to come to one of these. It would be possible to get to meet you in person and thank you personally for these great videos and for keeping me "sane" while I stay home and try to get better, after 2 surgeries and possibly more to come. GOD Bless, you sir.
Zombie8mybrain *Brett
That Donkey Kong mini cabinet flooded me with a wave of nostalgia. My grand parents had one when I was a kid and I remember when we'd go visit them in Houston my brother and I would race each other to play that thing 😂 They didn't have many toys at their house so it was one of the most entertaining things we had to do during our visits, lol.
U b ichkujo
You just blew my mind when you turned off the light and the flicker went away..... WOW!!
Another great episode, and very well made. You and TechMoan have SERIOUSLY raised the bar for not only Tech videos on UA-cam, but any information based video production across the internet as a whole.
About that black gunk: Probably way after the fact, but mine also had that when I originally got it as a kid. Years later after seeing yours, I believe some black pellets or residual black plastic from a previous use was in the mold used at the factory. No idea how many it affected, but I thought you'd like to know.
I thought it was old barbecue sauce lol
Looks like burnt melted plastic. If they're ABS shells, and it fused, it's basically a part of the case now, hence why even scrapping it didn't remove it fully.
Wow...that’s really interesting. I was wondering why the discoloration actually penetrated so deep into the plastic. Your explanation makes sense...also because if you noticed...once he got the label off on that part of the unit...there was more black discoloration beneath the label- and the label had no damage.
Also, WD40 is a poor cleaner/solvent and was not its intended use. It gives me cringe to see him use it. There are half a dozen better solutions. "Goo gone" is much better. If the black was an inherent manufacturing artifact as you suggest then an alternative would be to match the color of cabinet and paint it. Or possibly use colored tape - if color was close enough.
Kinda like how mold spots are with action figures made in Malaysia.
So much effort and explanation from the presenter :) satisfying and oddly relaxing to watch :)
That is every one of his videos
Those color dot-matrix displays are NICE. We would've killed to have displays like that in our handheld games back in the 80's.
Mike Hawk um I like lcd displays better
@@jadoggoman7120 Good for you.
for real those tiger handhelds were the pits!!
@@jadoggoman7120 : Those dot matrix displays are actually LCD!
I still remember the first time I saw a flat panel monitor. Never went back to CRT once I got a tiny computer LCD screen.
I have a full arcade (about 20 little arcades). Love those things! Sometimes I'll start them all and run them at the same time to make it sound like the arcade used to. Glad I found your channel! Good stuff.
This was the first 8bitguy episode I watched.... and wow, I'm glad I did =)
Same
same
Same
Same. I think it's the perfect 'starter' episode for The 8-Bit Guy's channel because it's got a combination of the things he does a lot. Namely, restoring electronics, relabeling (that was only one time, but still) and comparing newer versions of older tech/games to their originals.
Your patience and teaching is really admiring and inspiring. Excellent. Thanks
Funny that i realize now i missed this the first time i watched this video. My mom taught me a nice technique for cleaning up all those nasty dots without the painstaking work of doing it manually and risking altering the thickness of the lines. Once you have removed the color you can convert the image to 2bit (black and white) and then back to full color this will perfectly flatten all the lines then you can fill the lines with any other color this will leave only the messy black dots unconnected to the main mass as black, then you can fill all the white spaces with black and then white again to clean up the dots.
My mom taught me this around 15 years ago actually on paint shop pro kek.
Wow, what a great presentation! Not many UA-cam presenters or even professional tv presenters grab my attention and get me enthralled as you have!
You sir are a wizard in both slick presentation and the environment you use for your program!
Love your discovery at 23:40 of 2 games on the same PCB!
Congratulations, I will be watching your whole series.
Those mystery melt marks are caused by a certain type of rubber resting on the plastic for long, dormant periods of time.
An example is the type of rubber cheap balloons are made of, resting on hard brittle type plastics toys are made of. GI Joe toys from the 1970's are notorious for that condition. For shallow melts, I use 00 grade steel wool and car polish.
And to remove labels, heat them up with a hair dryer, they peel right off.
Kinda seems unfair that the new Pac-Man game had a primitive segmented display, while the others had a proper dot matrix LCD with much, much more rich gameplay. Do they all cost the same?
you CAN find Pac Man games that use the actual games instead of LCD recreations
No, the dot matrix games cost about 40 bucks
I own that Pac-Man mini arcade with the screen like Q-bert and Centipede and is just like the actual arcade. He just grabbed the cheaper version of Pac-Man.🤷♂️
@@chucknorriss5452 no, he grabbed an earlier version of Pac-man. Basic Fun (the company releasing the modern arcade cabinets you see in the video) released the monochrome LCD version, then they introduced the color LCD version, then they made another version with the same cabinet as the color LCD version, but with no mode button, and a dot matrix display with a custom ROM inside, then they made a color LCD version with the same cabinet as the monochrome LCD version, then they released a new Pac-man with the dot matrix display and custom ROM with the original cabinet design. And finally, they released a color LCD cabinet with the slimmer cabinet shape of the monochrome LCD cabinet, but with the original cabinet design on it. He didn't buy a cheaper version, he bought an earlier, more primitive version.
13:15 that must have been coca cola, that thing is like acid.
Coca-Cola contains phosphoric acid :>
Not like acid. Actual acid. This is why soda is such a great corrosion promoter. That and the fact it is sticky and the sugar residue is hygroscopic.
Could really be anything. There's a lot of things that eat away/react to plastic. Like, don't ever leave an eraser on things. Always make sure it's the protective case and not the eraser itself touching whatever it is on top of, because they can melt onto some plastics and stick to varnish on wooden tables (leaving a mark), etc. I've also had the soles of a pair of shoes start to melt basically on their own in storage and make a mess. One shoe being on top of the other and both of them on top of some basic, laminated cardboard box, both soles happily starting to melt into rubber sludge and sticking to whatever they were touching.
So, the game may have simply been lying in a toy box with some other item on top of it.
The thing is that it can be two seemingly inert substances reacting to each other, so the stuff may not be just some crud you can easily clean off. Get the right combination and they can melt on and bond and penetrate into each other. I suppose you might be able to find some solvent to remove most of it, but it might involve solvents that soften the plastic itself and for some of the plastics it means some vicious substances releasing toxic vapours, etc.
did he even use oven cleaner?
I dont think so...
JASC PAINT SHOP PRO!!!!! YES! Finally someone else who uses this! I have been using that for nearly 20 years myself. I primarily use it for certain things these days but it still holds a special place in my toolset.
on my computer right now I have Paintshop Pro 5, Paintshop Pro 8, Paintshop Pro x, Paintshop Pro x3 and Paintshop pro x5 installed.
Yeah, I used PSP8 for years. What finally got me to stop using it was Pixelmator on OSX.
Yuup, PSP4 and PSP5 for the win!
I'm also still using it for pixel art, as it has 16 and 256 color support built in.
You've been missing out on 7 for years. It's basically 5 but with more to it :D
The solder pads on the board are what's called "test points". They're used during manufacturing to test the circuit to be sure it's working properly. It's also useful for repairs, if you have a service manual detailing what each testpoint should have in it (voltage, signal shape, signal frequency, etc).
These early portable games are really interesting from a technical standpoint. They use 4 bit microcontrollers usually running at 20-50Khz and have built in ROM, RAM, and drivers for segmented LCDs/VFDs. The MB Microvision and the Game and Watch uses them as well.
The music on this episode is particularly good.
16:25 to 17:05 is really good, but what is rhe song called? I really kinda want to know
..
why am i so into watching your videos is still completely beyond me months later. I'm so pro technology and even get angry sometimes when people try to make old things sound so amazing just because of nostalgia. However, you somehow keep me incredibly interested and have taught me SO much about older hardware. I am 23 and also Romanian (we got stuff much later than the rest of the world) so I wouldn't know about all this stuff otherwise. Thanks for the great channel!
Weren't your grandparents NAZI's? Is that nostalgic enough for ya?
That was unnecessary, man. Come on. :/
This is the video that got me into watching David ever since I've watched him and enjoyed all his videos nice to go back and rewatch what started it for me
The solder pads marked 'T'are for testing purposes. It seems like an SPI bus actually, the column of 2x3 at the left of the PCB. That means it is programmed after it has been put together and thus one could indeed hack another ROM in it.
René Didden Someone must be working on it..I hope..
ungratefulmetalpansy It's not a 80s device.
The original comment is referring to the modern games, not the older ones.
René Didden thus, indeed? Are you a Victorian modder?
For sure the t-pads are test-points.
Hard to see but if some of them say j- it is probably a jtag port. In that case it's hack time for sure. 😊
About the newer games: it seems kind of weird that games from the same manufacturer and series use such dramatically different screen technologies.
"Good" "Better" "Best" is a common approach for pushing hardware like this.
I would imagine that's because different developers made them and they are just distributed by the same company. I am not quite sure if it's the case, but this is common with the video game industry. For example the Call of Duty franchise is developed by 3 different game companies.
They were released at different times, but the fact they all sell for the same price was surprising. Also surprising the centipede/Qbert board was labelled in plain English and don't know why he didn't then open the frogger machine out of curiosity. Those machines seem like a good deal as a base for a diy pi zero build.
Seems stupid though.
Mighty Jabba's Collection the old ones, they probably used a VFD display only because it is flat.
New subscriber here, I am 47 years old. Those tabletop games take me back to a time when nothing mattered. You woke up, plan fun for the day, no stress. "I don't want to grow up, I'm a toys r us kid, there's a million things at toys r us that I can play with!"
You are a very cunning, skilled, experienced and down to earth man. Your videos are the definiton of quality!
That is true
You can get a rubber roller to press the label evenly, after it's set in place. If you're going to relable machines with controlers, a hole punch set may also be a good idea.
A Cricut would work as well.
Being 13 and heavily into video games, these were the holy grail of toys. Only the rich kids had them and it was painful how much I wanted one.
WHOA! Flashback! My brother got the Pac-man game for Christmas many many years ago. I remember being a little kid and watching him play over his shoulder for hours on end. Sometimes he even let me play it! Man did that thing chew through batteries. And that music/sound effects... true nostalgia! Thank you for making this video.
9:25 About cleaning the image, you can always use a morphology open operation (for example OpenCV could do that just fine) to "erode" the image first, then "dilate" back. It'll clean most of those scattered pixels.
Time Zones mate :)
Patreon
That shouldn't factor, Is Google going crooked again?
I would probably have tried converting it to a vector image in something like Inkscape. Really great method for high-res line art.
"A lot of people had an aneurism when they saw that I recreated my labels for my cartridges" I just know one of the people that was aimed at was Pat the NES punk XD
Forget about the complainers, no need to print disclaimers for your own personal stuff. Thanks for the video!
i don't have a dog in this fight, but from what i recall about the anger over the original label replacement video it wasn't that HE is doing it for HIS stuff, it's that he's unintentionally making a how-to video for scammers to try to trick would-be collectors. from my point of view, his technique results in something way too glossy to be confused with the originals.
Honestly.. what's wrong with RESTORING something to a near original condition? From what I remember he has always been as faithful as possible to the original sticker, which I have no problem with. It would be different if he was replacing the stick with something entirely different. And, on top of that, the stickers he replaces are usually in pretty bad shape.
Like, when a building needs repair do you just let it fall down to 'preserve' its original condition? No! Why not treat our electronics the same?
gravecactus I suppose too that future owners/dealers, long after The 8 Bit Guy's CMOS battery dies and 20th c objets tech are coveted like Bester's Flowered Thundermug, may not be so scrupulous or diligent in pointing these things out.
Norah Jones Facing a similar dilemma here with a 1920s portable gramophone that needs new leather cloth on the case. Purists would say to leave it alone, but so long as you do it well and carefully, using the right material, where's the harm? I'd much rather see it look factory new than like junk in the interests of collectors who would never pay top price anyway, despite going on and on about it...
I'm all for restoring something to its original condition. Why not? Why let it deteriorate when it can be preserved?People just like to complain about things. Restoration happens all the time
An example would be the Sistine Chapel: tinyurl.com/y7gl847g
Man, I am thoroughly impressed with your range of skills and things you do. I've caught a handful of your videos so far and just want you to know I appreciate all of your effort!
8:59 Paint Shop Pro was great! THE best "Photoshop wannabe" and it was my go-to program for scanning, inking and coloring my pencil sketches. Best $79 I ever spent (in 1999).
Great restorations! I love how you did the labels.
I prefer these longer videos
Absolutely!
Awesome video my friend I had the Coleco Pac-Man in 82 it was still my favorite Christmas present ever
Same! That was the best Christmas morning ever, except for fighting with my cousins, there being 4 of us and only 3 games. Well, 4 games but nobody wanted to play that stupid knock-off Coleco football game that our Drunkle bought.
I love the reproduction labels you do.
In the beginning I thought that you said "we have the final episode today" and it made me very sad for a second.
Awesome review video my friend! I had the Coleco PAC-Man in 82 and was obsessed with it but the sound drove me nuts!!! It was awesome to see you clean it and restore it! Man that brought back memories thanks
That's hilarious! I use the same version of Paintshop for the exact same reason!
I started off in Paintshop in the 90s too. However I learned Photoshop on about 12 years ago to an expert level. Erasing those stray pixels in Photoshop now takes a couple seconds if you know what your doing, it is just a time saver. To tell the truth, I sometimes use MS paint just because it loads so much faster than PS if I need to do a quick edit.
Me too
My PSP fell over on Windows 10 but the upgrade wasn't expensive.
Using PSP 7 for *years* now!!!
i've also used paint shop pro 7 for ages....still does practically everything i need
7:20 ah yes, the engineering way. Always suspect the most complex solution to the easiest answer.
The tabletop Pac-Man seems better than the Atari 2600 version.
Everything was.
You say that, but the noise from the tabletop is maddening in person. Not sure why it's so much less annoying when hearing it in this video.
Yes I agree and yes I had Atari 2600 as a kid.
Oh and yes the Original Pac-Man really sucks for Atari 2600.
All the lighter incarnations were much much much better.
Also does anyone remember Pac-Man jr. For Atari 2600?
Best Pac-Man game ever.
and I was able to rack up thousands upon thousands of points without losing a life.
O buy the way there is a video on UA-cam.
About the AI of the Pac-Man ghosts in the original.
And yes they were not actually fixed patterns.
Mostly.
One ghost would actually pursue Pac-Man.
And shutch.
@@42sstuff33 I remember the noise EVEN as an annoying child was awful.
OMG I'm not the only one who still uses Paint Shop Pro 7 for image manipulation! It was the last version of that software that was still fast and nimble, before its creators decided they needed to go after Photoshop and made version 8 slow as molasses. I'm not doing any kind of serious graphic design, so PSP7 does most everything I need it to, I'm proficient with it, and so I have no incentive to learn something like Photoshop either.
It's stopped working for me - some recentish Windows 10 update (pre Creator's) has killed it. No amount of tweaking and compatibility settings will fix it :(
I still have and use an old copy of JASC paintshop pro 9 that still seems to work just fine. However, I do use the newer versions on my home PC. I use the older one at work.
PSP versions from 8 onwards are completely different to the preceding versions, and (I think) developed by a different team after JASC was bought by Corel. I'm not surprised the more modern versions still work. PSP7 worked on every subsequent version of Windows until an update in 10 borked it.
PSP7 still works fine for me on the very latest update of Windows 10 Pro. No idea why it doesn't work for you anymore.
Lucky you, it happened on my desktop when some update came either late last year or early this one, when the same update came to my laptop it happened again. Months later, I format and reinstall on my desktop. Yay, PSP7 is working. Updates are forced on me, because Microsoft are assholes. Bang, PSP7 not working again.
These restored Labels are so satisfying!
Ibakon Ferba but.. the arrows on the control stick tho
NES guy Oh, I didn't notice that. But he did a great job on the rest!
The fact he uses Paint is just amazing! Fits in everything he does! I love this channel, honest to God 😺
paint shop pro, not paint.
@@robcohen7678 I honestly wonder how you could see MS Paint on screen somewhere in the footage. I mean, every person who ever used a computer, used or just know Paint as well, especially it didn't change at all for decades (well, almost). It's like Tetris, Pampers, Cola etc.
@@override7486 I was saying it IS NOT MS Paint. You can see it says "Jasc Paintshop Pro" in the top of the window
You should upload those reproduction labels for other people who want to restore their tabletops
Not unless he vectorizes them.
Highly recommend using some kind of non-yellowing acrylic fixative spray on both sides of the label after printing. It will protect the ink from UV fading issues and probably keep adhesive from seeping through from the back. The lamination is essential for physical protection, but will not protect the ink underneath from any kind of humidity or moisture seeping in from behind or around the edges of the paper. Any art supply store will carry a good archival-quality fixative spray in gloss or satin. Get yourself a set of proper precision X-Acto knives while you're at it. Utility knives just aren't made for that kind of work.
you can buy printer paper that already has an adhesive backing. ;-)
He said "laser printer" so no ink used, unless UV also affects toner powder?
The older models design made them much more comfortable to play.
I still use an old Paint Shop Pro too! I previously used Photoshop back in the day, when I worked in a tech job, but it contains far too many features that I need. As a tattooist creating new designs it has all I need. Great video by the way, I'm a retro enthusiast, and am enthralled with all things pi at the moment. Maybe one day I'll start a channel documenting my many builds with my raspberry and orange pi boards. :)
I didn't see this till now but my favorite thing about it is that he uses an old version of Paint Shop Pro. I've been using 6.02 for as long as its been out... so 19 years now.
I use PSP 8 and it's still my favourite
PSP 7 user here! :)
It's great to see someone put so much care and attention into preserving these awesome toys.
Just a tip for you to recreate images, it will save you allot of time. CorelDraw is an amazing tool convert the graphics to vector, had many great results with it. Did this for example with a photo of bally Midway's Domino man, result is awesome. It is the build-in CorelTrace feature (perimeter cover) which allow you to create vector shapes of an image, it is really amazing.
I am also a fan of paintshop pro, and like you using an older version, I am using version 7 from 2000, king in color rearrangement. So what you can do to remove the color 'noise' is by reducing the color depth. Another thing is scaling, increase the image size (huge!), reduce the colors with optimized Octree (and edit the pallete if not the right color), set the colors back (increase to 24 bit), add a little blur and rescale it back. You can get great results with it.
code beat well damn, you smart
code beat wow
You must have missed the part where he said he's used paint pro for 20 years and is comfortable with it.
I was going to suggest Illustrator to do the same. But there you go. It's probably worth investing some time in a modern vector program by this stage
+Stu I doubt he was that comfortable fixing the dirt pixels off every line, which could be done in three clicks and simple filters even in Paint.NET . Every year it's less reason to hold on to software that slows you down so much.
That Q-bert/Centipede board in the top right has "Try_Me" on it. looks interesting
It is refering to the demo mode that is deactivated once you pull out the tabs in the back, notice the box says TRY ME! on it. Also you can see that the wires sodered onto it go to the small device the tabs would have been slotted into on the back of the machine.
I too would like to try out "Try_Me." I am intrigued.
Nuberax Its demo mode
plot twist its actually the worlds first interactive adult game
Careful Alice, Wonderland is a dangerous place.
I had the classic frogger tabletop exactly like the one in this video @ 17:55. I spent so many hours playing that thing. It eventually broke and my mom tossed it out when I went to college. If only it was still kicking around my attic I'd fix it up in a heartbeat just as a conversational piece in the living room~
I was at Target today and found an Oregon Trail mini game with what looks like the MS DOS version of the game housed in a chunky IBM computer look a like case . You should check it out.
I bought that the other day! It's so cool, but the Arrow key pad kinda sucks
Picked the same thing up at WalMart a couple weeks ago! Pretty cool.
and from what I heard, Basic Fun will be doing a similar one but with Carmen San Diego.
I bought that like last summer. It rocks. The floppy disk like thing is the power button too! Runs on AA batteries I believe
The 8-Bit Guy didn't do anything about it, but LGR did. The Ben Heck Show took these apart and made slimmer versions.
Get yourself some X-ACTO knives for precision cutting, way better than a box cutter and scissors.
Paul NeoStormer Bring me the knife of "Exact Zero"!
I was so excited to buy my first full X-Acto set in years, and a Wally World. (found it online). Oh my, has the quality fell off the map. The larger plastic handle.. soo cheap compared to the originals of years ago. :(
or better yet, get a hole punch from harbor freight or something LOL, I used a smaller hole punch so many times for cutting out holes in plastic and card stock it is not even funny, and it always worked out fantastic. (also works on leather rather than using those crap hole punches from tandy ha ha.
I cheered when you paused to mention Paint Shop Pro. I was a PSP adherent, first with shareware and later supporting retail releases. I miss using it, having moved on to Gimp years ago. If I find myself digging through old boxes, I'll be sure to see if I still have it because you've enticed me to go back.
Hey, David, if you ever need to do something like this again, where you need to reproduce labels that have cut-outs, specifically circular ones, try getting a bit of pipe with a similar inner-diameter (you could theoretically use a pipe with with a similar outer diameter, but it might be a bit more difficult unless you have something with a small sanding tool), sharpen it to where the inner wall is the top of a very sharp die, and whack the other end of the pipe with a hammer or dead blow mallet to cut it out. I'm sure I could have explained this better, so, I do apologize for that.
I use this technique all the time
The largest one I needed was about an inch and 1/8 wide so I used a piece of 1" conduit and filed it until it was sharp (it took forever)
The first time I've heard you saying "no pun intended"
Yes, puns are always intended even when people say its not.
lol "ghost"ing
That donkey Kong mini arcade put a permanent smile on my face! Me and brother had to share it when I was a kid! I love the 80's/90's
*permanent
It would be pretty simple to solder on a switch to let you choose between the two games.
He'd still have to worry about the joystick orientation problem.
For future labels with cutouts, maybe run a black marker around the holes (where appropriate) to hide the exposed edges of the paper.
Entarra De'Lacord the black ink will bleed out beyond the edge.
He did a great job restoring those old mini tabletop arcades..he can always resell them in better conditions than they were before..easier for him to resell
New 8-Bit Guy video, yay!
It's 25 minutes long - DOUBLE YAY!!
I'm thinking that discolored spot could actually be a burn mark. Somehow, the plastic got scorched by something, but wasn't enough to actually melt it. Maybe someone had the game too close to a heater or something? The fact that it wouldn't come off with all those chemical cleaners suggests that the plastic was actually damaged by something.
ct92404 I remember leaving a couple hand held video games a little too close to baseboard heaters and it ended up looking something like this. You may be right.
I may be crazy...
Chris Jones yeah, I've seen heat damage on plastic before that looked exactly like that - like kind of a brown spot. No amount of cleaning will get that off, because the plastic is actually scorched. You'd have to paint it or sand it off or something.
Then I suppose my guess that it could be a poliurethane foam leftover wan't correct. :)
Thank you for the video, brought back a lot of memories for me..... My grandmother used to work at midway making the boards for Pac-Man, so she had one of these mini games. IDK if she bought it or the employees were given one or what not, but I do remember sitting at hear house on the holidays with my family and everyone took turns playing it. Never did find out what happened too it, but liked seeing it and hearing the sounds again :)
I had the Donkey Kong version when I was a kid, lost it at Dulles Airport in Northern VA before a flight out with my parents. Was gutted.
Bummer
LOL! I use Paint Shop Pro 5 also!
Sometimes, newer isn't always better. :)
Also, to help you out in the future when creating reproduction labels like this. When you need to spray adhesive but can't handle the label manually, use suction cups on the outward facing side like the original manufacturers had to place the labels without hand-holding them.
Same here! lol... I still prefer Photoshop for a lot of things but I find PSP 5 much easier to work with for web images.. Corel really did a number on this program when they took ownership over JASC :mad:
Yep, sometimes newer isn't better.
But in this case, newer IS better.
Sure, newer programs will take time to learn, but the fact is, newer paint programs have more features and are more easy to learn.
I was thinking of the suction cup idea. Seems like tweezers would also work.
I have PSP 7 Myself, never really mastered it
@@edwardanimations6296 PSP 7 here too. I did master most of it and can do really good editing with it.
My neighbor stole mine when I was a kid. My brother still has his Donkey Kong one. I miss the 80’s.
I got the Wal-Mart Pac-Man Arcade Classics Game for Christmas 2017,
and I got the Coleco Pac-Man Tabletop Game for my 25th Birthday!
I've got to say, the camera you used on second half looks much better, especially with colors. (to compare, check out 0:41 and 24:49 )
You're right. Colour wise, the original shot has the slightly 'green' look caused by low CRI lighting whereas the second is much more vibrant and natural.
21:50 wow, i'm actually pretty impressed by this "Asteroids". the segment display looks so complicated, it might've been easier to use a hi-res LCD display instead. lol.
Hoping the higher end modern versions used a TFT display with real MAME instead of segmented display. Boo! Except Q-bert, Centipede and Frogger. That cluster of 6 pads T19-24 are most likely JTAG or similar serial programming port. I can see the GND and V+ terminal in the group of 6. Just need to identify what chip they are using and hack away.
There seems to be this kind of machine in China, which are tabletop arcades(though they are much more larger than what is shown in the video, they are still qualified as "tabletop") that run NeoGeo/CPS games via some kind of emulation.
Sorry for an network problem that caused me to sent muliple comments.
Same, I thought they were ARM based. Btw how could you figure out the chip it's using? Removing the blob?
Those modern consoles showed in the video are just NES-on-Chip devices, which is nothing more than a very tiny NES. However the "NeoGeo tabletop" I mentioned seems to be based on x86 architecture, or to say, a computer with an emulator.
I'd buy that for a dollar
First video i've seen of yours i enjoyed it thank you =3
Wow, I thought I was the oonly one who still uses Paint Shop Pro... It looks like you're using PSP7, which is the same version I use... Here's a pro tip for recoloring it: to turn it back into line art, increase the image size to 200-400% of original, then go to Colors, Adjust, Threshold, and adjust that until all you have left are the lines. Recolor it with flood fill, then shrink it back down to the original size
The reason for increasing the resolution is that threshold introduces jaggies. By working in a higher resolution, and then shrinking it back down to anti-alias the jaggies out.
rasberry pi 3 would fit in that Arcade case
Larry198s Look up PiScore on Thingiverse or Tested.
*raspberry
or just retro pie
Most of the solder pads are labelled TXX where XX is a number. They're basically test points to debug the PCB back during development in the labs. They should be crucial signals like clocks, voltages and reset. But there's another pad labelled E something and the 'E' may mean Enable!
I had that pacman one when i was a kid. The contols have a habit of malfuctioning. There are metal strips under each control which snap after a while. I had to get someone to solder them back regularly so i could keep playing. Good video. Thanks for the memories. All the best.
Sorry if this has been asked before but two things sorta bugged me:
1) I know the razor knife you're using is "good enough" but why not go out and get an x-acto knife that might let you cut those sorts of things easier. They're only about $5-$8.
2) Does the version of PaintShopPro come with a color picker tool? Instead of guessing what colors are which if you had that sorta tool you could just write down the hex of each color used and match it more exactly that way.
Surprised the Centipede game came with Q*bert but I guess in retrospect it makes sense. Why spend and make two different models when you can just make one with both on there? Anyway, thanks for the videos!
ItinerantSoldier, TBF the picker tool is not ideal when used with a scanned document, it can pick a lot of different values for a same area, especially when the original print is old, and it looks like he was trying to match the original color, and maybe make some adjustments compared to the faded one.
If they make one with both games, people would only buy one machine and get two games for the price of one. They want to capitalize as much as they can, while making the manufacturing process as easy as switching a label and soldering a connection ;-)
Yes, but unless his monitor covers most of the color gamut and his eyes are near superhuman sharp at discerning hues, it won't be more efficient than using the hex code from a color pick on the most consistent areas of the image if you're worried about accuracy.
Don't use finger to hold stickers.
Use tweezer to hold the stickers, not with your hand. It makes it much easier and more accurate when sticking on.
And fingers always ruin the gluing surface and hard to position it.
Trust me on this one.
When I was a little kid in the early 90's the family restaurant we ate at once a week had a bunch of them. I love it.
3:24
That's pretty impressive for technology of the 80's.
I just picked up a Centipede and Frogger today from my local Walmart and looks like there is a change in the boards. My centipede does not contain Q’Bert and nothing extra on the Frogger board.... bummed I was really hoping to mod them to have two games in one. Trying to track down the Rampage one next
How did you solder a button to non-existent jumpers? You mention yours didn't have any 🤔
Xilog he clearly doesn’t know what he’s talking about. Sautered? FFS it says “solder” right on the spool....
Steven Deleon sure it is, I never miss a chance to pile on and have a laugh at an idiot like yourself. By the way it’s spelled “your”, you’re is a contraction for “you are”.
@@Scarface6013 yeah confirmed you have no clue what you're talking about
My centipede is a newer one but the j1 jumper does pull up qbert even though it doesn't mention it on the board.
Hi there 8-bit guy,this was great to watch. I never knew about these mini tabletop games either until now. Well done with the restorations,good to see someone enjoy what they do.
There are actual remakes of the Coleco tabletops out there that look almost identical to the old ones, only modernized; I think they use color LCD displays and the controls are a little different. I actually thought this video was going to be comparing the originals and remakes. I still enjoyed it though, great job on restoring the Donkey Kong game.
Raven I
Hey you can get those at Thinkgeek.com
It's an NES on-a-chip; Q*Bert *is* the NES version with a few minor tweaks, and Centipede is the same weird "7800-alike" version from the old Atari Flashback console. AFAIK the pads numbered T-XX are just test points for a bed of nails during manufacture although it's not impossible that there may be accessible JTAG/I2C headers somewhere. My guess would be that the empty component slots may simply be remnants of this board being used in other products (a plug-and-play console, etc.).
(Also, I strongly suggest you upgrade to more modern/powerful image editing software -- that would have been a 2 minute job in Photoshop!)
Mat Hall, lets not forget to take into account that David might simply enjoy the process of making the labels using the older software. If so I can relate, but agree there are times that using filters or other operations in PS can save tons of time and there are uses for that.
I don't god damn understand why he doesn't just get new high resolution art from Google Images
+Onslaught Six First, because he wants to preserve the original look (aside from the "reproduction label" bit, of course).
Second, because he doesn't want to risk a copyright hit. High resolution art from Google Images, unless it is explicitly public domain, is copyrighted. He could be sued if he uses it. (Highly unlikely, since he's only using it to replace the decals on one machine that's going in his private collection for the next decade or two, but it's plausible, especially because it is being shown in a monetized video.)
@Mat Hall Yes, just a 2 min job in Photoshop after spending 6 years getting proficient with it.
He could have made a better job even in Paint Shop Pro, by painting the stray pixels white before turning the image to black & white. But yeah, I guess that if he used some free Photoshop-like program (Krita? GIMP?) he could've achieved a better result, by editing the color channels or isolating the black color.
Living the dream, I want a channel like this! YOU ARE AWESOME!
“Size Does Matter” “There Is A lot Of Ghosting No Pun Intended”
Windows 7 warms up my heart.
Thanks for the trip down memory lane. My brother and I had the Galaxian game of the old tabletops, which plays and looks great for a table top adaptation. There was also a cool AC adapter kit available that used hollow batteries that were little more than wires, and one of which attached to a 9V battery snap connector which went to the power brick side. The coolest thing we did with these games was invite other kids on our street over with their own games and set up a mini arcade in our basement. We had Galaxian, Pac Man, Q-bert, and Donkey Kong going. We tried to play our game in the middle of the night, but always got busted by our mother because Galaxian is so loud, so my brother installed a simple toggle switch to the speaker and drilled a hole in the case to fit it to the outside--early console mod :p
Had to check the year this was made when he said Toys'R'us. R.I.P. to a legend
It's making a slow comeback, like Radio Shack
Man, I wouldn't worry about what people say -- your reproduction labels look amazing, and it's not like you're *ever* going to sell these items, right? You're not sticking them on eBay, telling folks "hey, look at these awesome all-original games with perfect labels." I wouldn't bother with that "reproduction" text on your new labels. You're not out there trying to rip people off by selling this stuff as if it were new and in perfect condition.
Well, that's the thing.. I might sell these some day. Not right now, but maybe 10 or 20 years from now.
You just have to state that the labels aren't original to any potential buyers.
I'm assuming the 8-Bit Guy is going to be honest when he sells the stuff. But, if he does does sell it and the person that buys it decides to resell it, they might not be as honest or might forget that it's a reproduction
Timur Tripp Labeling reproduction labels is a good thing just in case the buyer or the buyer's grandchildren decide to sell it later on and don't disclose that information for whatever reason. It's a good way to protect the potential future consumer.
The 8-Bit Guy is it too difficult to reattach the original properly?
I had the Casio keyboard with the drum pads! I received it for Christmas in the late 80’s!! The 4 or 5 slides on the left would add different beats to sound. The rubber drum pads almost had to be hit in the center to register. That is amazing you have it on the wall and I recognize it so well. I’m pretty sure it came with a booklet and a cassette on how to play. Maybe some sheet music as well.
i have notifications turned on....and i got notified 27 minutes later.........
I always used paintshop pro also :D My friends used photoshop, but I prefered PSP. It also could use photoshop filters in the later versions i think. Then it was bought up by some other company and became crap :)
I have just finished watching your latest travelogue and for a change ,instead of squinting at the iPad, I have viewed on my new all singing and dancing 55inch LG tv, and what a joy, in fact absolutely bloody marvellous, the camera picture quality is spot on as is your laid back , down to earth presentations , I’m looking forward to the next episode, good work Ian, keep it up and don’t change a thing. Kind regards. Richard Halliday Yorkshire
7:20 That awkward moment you're so smart you just made your entire work harder.
I like to philosophize those moments as "better safe than sorry" checkups, lol.