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Carb Idle/Stumble Issues - Diagnose & Repair (Farm Fresh Original 69 f100 Update)
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- Опубліковано 1 сер 2017
- stumble and idle problems - working through this and finding the issue - its not what you would have guessed.
Anyone who runs an old classic with a carb needs to sit down and watch a few hours of this guys videos. You will learn a ton. Even for folks that grew up running carbs in our teens you will learn alot of the "why" behind what the usual Chilton/Clymer tuning/troubleshooting manuals tell you. BTW this truck is nice - reminded me of my old 69 F100 with 3 on the tree and a 300 six.
New wheels and tires look great, I always think a little bigger tires always improves the look! Really enjoy your videos, always informative and I always learn something new!
I love the fact that you're doing this in the driveway with basic hand tools.
Good Stuff!
Makes sense. I’ve pressure washed engines professionally for a very long time and never had a problem. But I suppose it could happen to a very old engine that hasn’t been started in years. I sure enjoy watching your work. Keep it up.
This is so genius. I didn’t even think about the pcv being a problem. I got a original 220k mile 240 I6 in my 68 f100 with some blow by. It recently started randomly misfiring at idle. Almost everything external on the engine is refreshed but I bet the pcv could be sticky. Thanks!
Too funny of a coincidence that I have to mention. I have a 77 f150 painfully bone stock. The only add-on is a seat cover and a small hang ten foot over the high beam switch. Same Sun tachometer in the exact same position. The tires and rims were switched out in the late seventies for American racing rims that look exactly like the ones that you just installed. I picked it up last year after it was sitting in the desert for 6 years. Also having some stumbling problems even with new carburetor. This video was great help thank you.
voltage drop at the coil while engine is running means you have a ballist resistor in the system, if you remove the resistor on a points ignition they burn up in a few days, plus the coil doesnt like it
Great grandpa had one I learned to shift on. We had fun together. Thanks for the memories!!
That truck is a real beauty. Hope it runs for years to come.
Id love to find a truck like this one. Love those old 3 speeds. Nice solid runner!
Thanks for bringing attention to and explaining the function of the PCVV.
I always just thought if it rattled when shaken, it must be working. I never thought much about how it actually functions. Great information!
been meaning to do a tune on my old Pontiac...rough idle and surge at light throttle. just been distracted with other projects. after watching your vid, I ran out to check the PCV and goddam if it didn't have a split hose and a lot of carbon in it. bypassed the valve and 90% of the stumble has disappeared! now idling down and much smoother. thx for the kick in the pants
You really know your stuff about these small block fords!
I am having a major vacuum leak somewhere with my 1968 302ci, as tested with a bosch vacuum gauge, reading about 4 hg/lbs, i understand i should be around 15 or higher on stock cam.
Also rebuilt my 2100 autolite carb, and now transmission kick down doesnt seem to be working.
Good finds on pop’s ride. I recall having a distributor cap’s terminal being loose before on my sbf, weird stuff you find sometimes!
Best Carb Video Luke. Great Truck. I watched you and got mine running great. This is really the best video Ive seen and I have looked everywhere.
I have a 71 ranger with 3 on the tree and manual brakes but it has a double master cylinder. I love driving it. Good video buddy
Loving your videos! Get to learn more about old American cars.
Crossfire on old sparkplug wires can be a misfire source too.
agreed, i once had a cracked plug and at night you could see it arc through the plug to the block.
Need some mud grips on the back! Super cool truck, love those old Fords.
Thanks for the info on this. I just stuck a different 4 barrel carb on a pickup truck. It puzzles me because it has inconsistent idle and also runs almost like it's starving for fuel then it runs almost perfect. I am looking into furl pressure but may also check for vacuum issues.
The videos on the F100 make me miss my first car - a 69 Chevy C-10 stepside. I got in 82 when I was not yet 16
i picked up my 74 when i was 16 - I really need to get that project completed
you explain tuning very well....
Informative video, thanks!
That's why I clean or replace my p.c.v every time I change the oil or do a tune up...or change them every few years there cheap enough...i had a 69 same color as this one but it was a f250 and had the 390FE in it...every summer it would vapor lock in the heat so I got a long length of copper line coiled it up and put it in a coffee can under the hood and put dry ice in it......that took care of the vapor locking issues.....and it loved running off that cold fuel
I love stuff like that, thats pretty darned cool! (ha)
pcv stuff has come up to be an issue on several vehicles i have owned at this point. my old carbed stuff i usually just remove it, but i like pulling the carbon and moisture out of the oil as well. decisions decisions . . . .
ThunderHead289 yeah that's the main reason I keep mine in place other wise out here in the Pacific north west you get excessive moisture
The last PCV I bought was, no joke, $0.26 on Rock Auto. Just replace them at every oil change if they're giving you so much grief.
how many miles per pound do you get out of the expensive dry ice? lol
That's some good info, however I am still having problem with my 79 F150 with 351m. When engine gets warm and the butterfly opens up, the engine stumbles and idles erratically, then dies. I have to keep foot on the gas to keep her running. Everything and everyone tells me I have a huge vac leak but can't seem to find any leaks. I would test every hose, checked plugs, EGR cleaned but not sure how to check EGR. PCV checked and cleaned. New Dist cap. Couple new vac hoses (dry rot). New fuel pump (old one had a little bit of play in it). Removed the box (box is junk will install flatbed) checked gas tank and fuel lines. I am stump and disappointed to the point where I've given up on it. She always ran great and was my daily driver for 12 years. truck does have a cat converter and thinking about cutting it off. Any thoughts and suggestions? Thanks for reading.
Nice Father's Day gift!
Thanks for the lug nut tip.
A little work with that grill and you will have a FINE looking survivor. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks! it was very cool. literally bought it right out of a barn!
You guys are so lucky to have these old trucks and cars. There is practically nothing further back than the mid 90s in an average UK junk yard.
PTE 2509
It’s the same in California. The state did a “cash for clunkers” program to get rid of old cars that didn’t have modern air pollution control systems. So all the old cars were bought by the state and crushed. They paid $1000, running or not. Cleaned out the junk yards and farmers fields where all the old cars sat. ☹️
@@ffarmchicken We had the same scheme in 2000, all the cars are still sat on an airfield rotting.
Nice to see a young guy who knows how to tune an old beast like that... brings me back to my 20s.
Next year get pops a power brake booster?
or at least a dual reservoir unit for safety sake !!!!
@@ThunderHead289 could the missing oil fill cap be causing a vacuum issue?
@@ThunderHead289 That distributor cap is dirty enough to potentially short sparks through the dirt, especially when also damp and humid. I suggest cleaning it at least a bit. Same for the top of the coil.
Silicone tire shine protects mufflers, though a bit late for that one.
@@ThunderHead289 gdhd
Llpi do check
Nice truck my grandma drove one just like it same color and all
I had a 71 Ford f 100 same green color automatic with 302 V8. I wish I still had it.
I just got an old 1968 F500. It doesn't have a lot of oil in the engine bay. I would like to lean up the engine bay without taking off the original paint on the valve cover and stuff. It is still covered in leaves twigs, dust and rodent droppings. She'll run.
Holy shit thats my truck haha same exact truck
Love this video, other than me having 2 batteries, its the same engine so cool
Mine still has its points
PCV - Positive Crankcase Ventilation. If you have worn rings it can cause high pressure in the crankcase which pressurizers your engine. PCV valve relieves that pressure so it decrease oil blow by and burning. Before PCV valves there was a crankcase ventilation pipe that let pressure bleed off and oil fumes to vent into the air instead of being burned off (pollution control) or just plain old breathers in the valve covers. Just change the dang PCV valve or clean it by soaking it in solvent and clean it, the engine needs to be vented.
What width are those wheels? I have a set like those, but their width is 10 in. 15×10. Your dad's truck looks good. You're a good son. God bless.
I wish my 67's dash pad was in that great of shape. Here in az it's the first thing to go.....
I'd keep running a points distributor on that rig. For an $8 set of points in the glovebox you can keep rolling. When the much touted MSD box went out, the fix was a replacement $300 control box. I figured every 5-8K miles I'll just file my points.
I use pertronix ignitor modules in my points engines where the distributor is still the original unit. This way, if the module goes bad, you can toss the points in 👍
@@ThunderHead289 Great idea. Thanks brother.
Hey buddy I’ve been watching a bunch of your videos and appreciate the time and knowledge you’ve shared with us, I’m swapping my 94 f150 302 from efi to carb and I’m running a Holley 600cfm double pumper on an Edlebrock intake and I was wondering if I hook my brake booster vacuum line to my carburetor anywhere, and I’m gonna be hooking up the MSD 6AL ignition control module up also with an oem distributor tfi any pointers on that, if you could respond it’d be highly appreciated thanks
Thanks brother
I’ve got a 73 f250 with a 360 that has been swapped in. Idk the mileage on the motor but it for sure has shot piston rings burns oil and has some blow by. The problem I’m haveing is that it’s stumbling around when I’m driving and it seems it gets worse with the heater on and thoughts on what it could be
Otherwise very informative and well explained video
Thanks for the video.
Quick question, I have a bone stock 85 Trans Am with a LG4 305 4bbl qjet... the carb still has the air/fuel mix screws capped... all emissions intact, has 66K on her... it has a pcv... you can hear it rattle while the engine is running, the more throttle the louder it gets, is that normal, should I replace it or remove it? what do I do to remove it and would this cause any issues? I've only had for a few months, and driven it a few times, seems to run ok... thoughts on what I can or should do? Thanks.
I know you have more Ford info and I'm throwing a GM question at you, I might ask VGG as well, but felt like asking is all... fyi I used to own a 1979 Ford Bronco, would like to get into a 1978 that doesn't have the emissions on it, or a Blazer, love the full size rigs with the convertible tops.
Love the hat on the dash !!! #johndeere !
Thunderhead289
I have a76 f-150 with 390 . I just installed an Edlebrock carb model 1906. They say it needs no adjustment out of the box. I’m having trouble with the motor stalling as soon I put it in gear. Any tips on what to check?
Is there need for front accelerator pump on carb bowl? I see a small fuel seepage under it. Thanks.
+ThunderHead289 ah LEAK!!!! Completely different meaning!!!!
There is nothing extensive, but it's starting to get past the gasket. This carb has been around since 08- inside scoop here is that I'm switching it out for a summit in the coming months just so all my carbed stuff is the same
Lol! My old 4x4 mud truck runs about 2800 rpm at 60. I love it. I feel like it purs very happy at 3000. So I figure if 3000 is good, 4000 should be better! & I'm right!
I know on mopars ive had bad luck with aftermarket pcv valves. When i bought mopar brand the issues stopped with that system. Right now on my 5th ave 318. I decided to try out an oil catch can. Engine has lots of blow by. But i dont like the idea of all that not being circulated out. As well i dont want all that crap gooping up my intake worse. Not sure what i think of the cheap catch can i bought yet. It does collect alot. But i have a random idle rpm that sometimes changes after reving the engine. Starting to wonder if i found the culprit.
Your dad’s cowl gasket looks like mine.
Spray carb cleaner around base of carb for vacuum leaks. Rpm goes up have a leak.
Good instructional video on troubleshooting.
I've wandered about simply running a hose to the air cleaner cleaner and doing away with this valve completely , is there anything wrong with this idea??? Have it on the filtered side of the element so bugs and gunk didn't get back inside the valve cover and in the oil.
The choke was manual. It had a cable that ran into the cabin of the vehicle.
How are PCV valves if you use an oil accumulator to keep oil from getting into the intake? I've got a single breather, need to add another or two, but it took 6 quarts of oil to go 2500 miles on the highway buzzing at 3k rpm. Need some kind of ventilation. Don't want to have to screw about with the carb tune but it seems like a PCV system is the way to go if you have an accumulator.
the positive crankcase situation helps the rings to seal, so if you are burning oil, it may help a little bit. one a v8 i would definitely recommend at least two breathers at the very least (one at each of the highest points for moisture to evacuate. what do you believe caused you to consume/lose so much oil and how to you perceive that the PCV is related? im trying to address this accordingly.
It wasn't burning it, it's just blowing it out of the front crank seal because there's too much pressure in the crankcase at higher rpms. I built a catch can so I can hook up a PCV without worrying about oiling the intake, wondering if I should go with that or just throw a couple more breathers on it. Does a PCV make the carb tune less consistent?
I just always try to avoid PCV as its another item to fail - it shouldnt effect things too adversely. just make sure you have an open breather and then the pcv valve. you need one of each - which i assume you are aware of
Ok. I don't really like the idea of them either, I'll maybe just run more breathers first and if it's still bad I'll try a pcv. Thanks
Great video! If I had a brother I would want him to be you!
Those are 1968 light covers , 1969 light covers had black around centers and grill had A red stripe lining the grill , Which turn pink from the elements , That but ugly white bumper I've only seen on 1967 f100s " Just saying , I heard guys comment that the White bumpers were on 1968 to some 1969 had white bumpers , I have been around those trucks since I was 3 years old , I still have my Dads 1968 f100 ranger , He bought brand new 1968 , Those old truck are still thick I see them on tv daily nightly out riding in mine , TOUGH ASS TRUCKS , BUT NO WHITE BUMPERS IVE SEEN ON 68 - 69 years that came out of factory , less they maybe was cleaning out a ware house for 1968 years , That grill is A 1968 to 😄 !
What's the best way to run without PVC valve ? I have a 69 460 with the same problem
Good job on that one can you send me a video of your technical standpoint on rebuilding a holly carb I want to see yours vs everyone else
New wheels made look 100 percent better.
Hi, I have a 78 F100 with a Cleveland 351. It has an odd problem. When I start it, it runs ok ( I have the idle set high to overcome following issue). When I stop, say to go to the shops and come back. When I start it, it feels almost like I am trying to start it on a cold winters day. Its struggles to maintain and the revs are low approx 600 rpm. I have to rev it up for a few minutes to get it to come good. (Some one said timing belt as I have tried to set ignition a couple of times and it sounds good when it running). I would like to cure it so I can drop the idle to where it should be. Thanks,
OldDog NewTricks 351 does not have a timing belt, it has a timing chain. It would help though to check timing at least periodically.
I have a 1970 Ford F250 Camper Special with a 360FE, and i have ZERO readings on my dash gouges. The Oil / Water / Fuel / Alternator Gauges aren't moving at all. This year was the only year that they had a complete metal dash. I checked the fuses and changed the instrument cluster voltage regulator but it didn't change anything ..... any experience with this ??????
most of those gauges are fairly simple, can you test if you are getting any electric signal out to the sensors themselves?
ThunderHead289 I'm gonna try and see if there's any power to the instrument cluster from the ignition ...... this is maddening.
How do I contact u gotta question on my88 Ford F-150 that’s been converted from fuel injection to carb has about 2 sec stumble when leaving in first but not at upper rpm now it has single plane intake was wondering if that would make a difference
I left me email in the video description!
I like the size of the new rims and tires. What are the sizes?
I had one miss fire once in a while it was plug wires
There are two different types of P.C. valves. One must be vertical - otherwise it leaks. The other is made to be horizontal. The rattle test is bogus . mine rattled but when I blew through it it wouldn't seal because of the installation a vertical type laid horizontal. I wonder why your distributor is hooked to straight manifold vacuum rather than ported? On a chevy motor, that would give too much advance at idle. Guess fords do it different..
How do I tune what I assume is a Holley 4160 carb. I got it off an f250 at the wrecker and I don't see a mixture screw
no mix screws? is there a cap over where the mix screws should be?
Apperently it's a 4180.
"What makes the Holley 4180 different from its aftermarket 4150/4160/1850 cousins is the tamper-proof metering block that makes it virtually impossible to adjust the idle air mixture."
From this site www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/engine/mump-0907-how-to-understand-the-holley-4180/
This article shows where they are and that mine have already been access by a previous owner.
I learned how to drive standard transmission on my ‘68 ford f100. Three on the tree.
The three on the tree is just something else. Definitely cool
I learned to drive on a 66 GMC pickup with three on the tree. I was 12, and finally tall enough to press in the clutch. I never drove an automatic till I was in drivers education at 15.
Down by the plug it would spark into the manifold and they were new wires but a defective insulator
I immediately went on Google and looked up Father's Day 2017. I was freaking out there for a second. Didn't know if I should have got my dad something LOL
The best thing you can do to that truck is a set of headers from either Stans Headers, Doug's or Hedman
I have my dad's '73 F100. I think everyone in town has worked on it. It's still having issues. It will usually start up and run fine for about 15 minutes. Then when you pull up and stop it start to get rough, like it's missing and if I don't put it in neutral it will die. It's an automatic. Then it is hard to start. No one seems to be able to figure it out. I used to work on cars with my dad so I thought I would watch your video... which was great fun by the way. Any ideas???
That sounds like vapor lock. The fuel is getting too hot and "boiling" into vapor. Because of that the fuel pump cant supply fuel. Shield the fuel line from any heat and put a heat spacing gasket under the carb. Modern day fuels contain ethanol which makes them boil more easily compared to gas back in the day when these trucks were on the road when the gas didnt have ethanol.
ha, i traded a set of a chome rims for the old steel rims like that.
Maybe I missed something but is the V8 in the '69 a 302 or 360FE engine?
I have had 4 f100 units on the channel - a 68, a 69, a 74, and a 72 ! This one is a 302!
What does it got in it engine wise?
Jack got a leak or handle not tightened all the way?
its a leaky jack - crazy how it showed up over the time lapse!
Great info
thanks!
1:50 JYD REPRESENT SON
Hey Thunder.....I am in the process of replacing my heads on my 72 F100 360......I have the manifold and heads off can you pressure wash the engine as long as you change the oil afterwards.......I remember in the military running water through the transmissions (I was told to do it) but can you do that with a older truck.......
Hey,
To be honest I would caution against that, you will develop rust on a lot of surfaces that you don't want to, like the cylinder walls. Do you want to clean the outside or the inside?
I wanted to clean the inside under the intake manifold.....when I pulled it off there is literally 45 years of crap in there......
PCV system is only for emissions and really doesn't even make a huge difference to emissions. It's always bad for performance, oil goes into your intake, it can gum up mas air sensor if you have EFI, it introduces random globs of oil into the combustion chamber that the ECU didn't calculate the ratio for so it screws it up. It just is bad for performance all around.
it definitely had caused issues on my little ranger - it has since been removed from it as well as the egr at this point.
PVC is WAAAAY down stream of the MAF on every fuel injected car I've ever seen. They usually pull right off of the manifold.
sirgallium PCV keeps pressure out of the crankcase as well , if you dont let the pressure out youll blow seals and gaskets..
Why all the talk about EFI and MAF and all these imaginary problems that a PCV system will NOT cause on a late 60's carbureted truck?
Won't the change of wheel/tyre size have affected the accuracy of the speedometer?
Indeed it will, it is about 5 miles per hour faster on the interstate than the speedo displays
Just noticed you have the ported vacuum on the carb pluged. Yet on another video you said you don't like to use manifold vacuum for the advance. ???
I should have clarified - carb had a fubared ported port.
I have since cleaned the carb and it does run ported now
Where does a young man like you get so much car knowledge? Most kids don’t know where to check the oil.
By having no money and still wanting to do old cars - I’m not a quitter, but maybe I should have been HA!
I like the before it looked more original
Are those wheels off of a 95?
The original wheels look better to me. Do u have the caps?
Good Info..
thanks
On that ranger you have are you ever going to clean those rims like you did those other aluminum ones
definitely considered it, but i think that with them looking good, the ugliness of the truck will be much more apparent !
Look better with out center cap old School look
Fuel filter?
that open breather on the driver side might be an issue
If your crank case is supposed to be under vacuum that missing oil cap would be a major vacuum leak.
Nope. Your pcv could be completely hanging out of the vehicle and it would be exactly the same as if it were in the valve cover
hey, how do you find good projects? Seems like you know where to search. i'm guessing by word of mouth!
itsAttow honestly, I’m a one man army. I don’t really have any close friends who do this stuff up until mid last year. Most things I found through binge searching craigslist back when I was in college 👌
ThunderHead289 you do good. Keep going!
+itsAttow thanks! I appreciate that. I’m a traveling engineer now, so time is limited. But I’m not done just yet!
I get that impression from your vids.
You got it right. Time is our enemy!
I've heard that aluminum wheels especially should be re-torqued after driving a bit.
Hoe much did the wheels cost ?
Nothing but a complete novice here. I see you have plug wire separators installed,but you still have a wire crossing over and touching. Also, it looked like plugs wires on both sides of engine we're laying on valve covers. Wouldn't these situations cause a miss fire and potentially ruin the plug wire. Maybe it was the camera angle giving a false perception (?)
I ask because I have recently been working on a "barn find" project. Trying to keep the plugs wires from touching the exhaust manifold, valve cover, each other etc is a P.I.T.A!! Is it a waste of time? Enjoyed the video and many others you do as well! Keep them coming!
I'm not a fan of petronics I used it in my Pontiac Catalina only lasted a year and then left me stranded. I just said fuck those things and went back to points
it really all depends - they are picky.
has to be 12 volts to the coil, and you have to use the special pertronix coil unit. also, the ignitor 3 is the only unit worth having. the others burn up with the key on and truck not running.
What ever happened to the 68 F100 that was out in the woods?
That's actually my coworkers vehicle. He has worked on it some here and there as have I.
His channel name is c2h6
Pollution Contributing Valve
does anyone know where i can get a bed cover like that?
Thunder, why don’t you pressure wash the engine compartment before you start working on it?
Iv never pressure washed anything.
Fastest way to destroy things.
by looking at the distributer it is one notch too slow too
Looks like gibbs dads from ncis