dovetailing in 4 minutes or less
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- Опубліковано 8 лют 2025
- This process usually takes me between 30 and 40 minutes
Step 1 - Mark the cuts and depth of cut:
I am using 2 sets of calipers, one set to measure the edges, and one to measure the spacing between the tails. I usually shoot for 2-3 kerf widths between tails. This allows me to keep the pins small but also gives me enough room to mark between the tails. One thin kerf width is ideal and is the universal signal that the dovetails were cut by hand.
I use the bigger set of calipers to make a really big mark between the tails. I really push the calipers into the end grain here because then I can saw on either side of the divot to get consistent (enough) spacing without having to mark the lines with a pencil or marking knife.
There are much better ways to do the measuring but I usually find I am +/- about half a millimeter error which is plenty good enough. I’d argue against being fussier than that because from 3 feet away you’ll never spot the difference.
I use a marking gauge to mark the width of the connecting board and give about an extra 16th to a 32nd of an inch (couple mil) overhang to be planed smooth after glueing.
Step 2 - Cut the tails:
I use a dovetail guide for this because I am only 4-5 dovetail boxes into my woodworking career. Eventually I need to take time to practice my downward cutting freehand but the dovetail guide is a great beginner tool and helps with muscle memory.
I use a big veritas carcass saw with a rip cutting blade to give me enough clearance on top of the guide. This saw is overkill and takes a more aggressive cut than what is normally recommended. It works well for me but if you’re cutting dovetails freehand use a smaller saw with a higher tpi.
Step 3 - Cut and chisel the waste:
I use a fretsaw for the recess between the tails/pins, and the ripsaw to cross cut the shoulders on the outer edges of the board.
To chisel the waste between the tails I use a quarter inch Japanese tapered chisel so I won’t bruise the wood as I cut between the narrow gap between the tails.
Step 4 - Mark the pins and depth of cut:
I typically use my hand plane to help create a right angle between the two connecting boards. I will sometimes cut a small indent into the marking gauge line to better stabilize the board but I find that it is a waste of time.
I am careful to keep firm downward pressure while marking to prevent the board from moving. I use a veritas marking knife because it has a long thin blade and allows me to get into the recess between the tails easily. An exacto knife works well here and is a cheaper substitute.
Like before I mark the depth of cut using my marking gauge, usually I don’t need to change the setting of the marking gauge.
Step 5 - Cut the pins, waste and chisel clean:
Like before I use the dovetail guide to cut the pins. I then use the fretsaw to cut the waste. A coping saw works just as well. Coping saws typically have a thicker blade which means you would need to match it to a ripsaw with a thicker blade.
I use a bigger chisel to cut the waste for the pins. Here I have the grain of the board running perpendicularly to me, so I can better see the angle at which I am cutting away the waste. I try to make a degree or so undercut so that the tails will sit flush in the mortice.
Step 6: Fine tune:
After cleaning up the platform for the tails, I use a pencil on the underside on every edge of every tail to apply some graphite. This helps me see what parts of the tails I need to slim down as I friction fit the joint. I am careful to use a sharp chisel and make delicate cuts to the pins as it is really easy to take away too much material.
I repeat this step until the joint is snug and fitting nicely.
In conclusion:
Having the right tools is everything when it comes to dovetailing. Of equal importance is using the plentiful strategies that can be found on the internet when developing your own methods for making nice looking dovetails.
My first try dovetailing I brute-force tried to cut it by hand with a Japanese pull saw. I quickly realized the level of precision needed to obtain a clean looking joint after that dismal failure.
Hopefully you found something useful from this description on dovetailing and I hope you found it visually interesting as well.
Thank you for stopping by. Please like, subscribe, and support me on patreon!
Noah
Skills!! I love how you showed all the adjustments!
Thank you!
Thanks for sharing. Appreciate your experience and guidance. A new subscriber.
Great little video! I have the same dovetail guide and was thinking it needed more friction, and sandpaper would do just the ticket! I should do that mod and use it more.
For the final fine tuning do you have problems with paring across the grain like that with tearout or other issues? I've been trying to pare straight down but I don't like the result, usually a gap at the top of the pin and tight at the bottom since I didn't go perfectly vertical.
Thank you! That is a good question.. and I am not sure if I have a good answer lol. I dont usually have trouble paring across the grain but I'd be lying if I said I never had any tear out. Gotta take small shavings wherever possible..
Sometimes I will pare across the grain at a very small angle to get the joint fitting and then go with the grain to make the face more perpendicular if that makes sense?
You're making me want to research this bc I feel like I should have this down pat and by the book :P
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