BBC's are still the best bang for your buck. They are also still relatively plentiful. Not the popular choice among the hipster crowd but, the technology is proven and results can't be argued with.
LOTS of power in factory parts. I see a ton of people paging through a summit or jegs catalog spending alot more money only to miss the mark. There is ALOT of marketing B.S. out there.
Proper assembly procedure for those who don't know... with the heads off, you index all plugs with ground straps down toward the piston, then sit a head on the block with no head gasket and two un-tightened bolts, manually rotate engine and when or if the head lifts... pull the plug and rotate again. A must procedure anytime a piston dome extends above the deck. Gasket thickness dictates additional clearance after proper fitment.
That engine is more or less a LS7 (+1 full point of compression) short block with the benefit of modern heads, cam, induction and dyno tuning. And the thing rips off an extra 200+ HP! Awesome.
I built a few yellow engines for oval track. Yes easier to find oil leaks, but that makes it easier for the officials to notice them too. A small valve cover leak can look like it's a big leak.
I ran into the crossed msd wire situation also.my builder caught it as soon as he put the timing light on it. This is in the msd trouble shooting instructions
Team G intake POS ??? only before port work, mostly plenum work needed. (runner entry's matched, raise & radius @ roof) Hard to believe a cam that opens @ 20° BTDC and a Bad intake is makin 740HP. You can easily pick up 30/40HP in plenum porting providing the intake is as cast.
This is very similar to my engine. Mine is a 4.310 bore 468. In the early 90's I bought the entire AFR top end. At the time AFR had used Brodix 305 cc rect. port head. Brodix cast AFR's logo in the valve spring area. AFR ported the Team-G intake including plenum work. Looking at the runners from the plenum area, the runners are tall and a little narrow. Heads flowed 347 short/ 367 long. 10.3 comp 91 octane pump gas made 705 hp and 588 tq. Don't know how other intakes compare but I believe the Team G works well with this smaller volume heads.
I still love building N/A engines and this one is nice. Not everyone wants to make power with 2,3 or 4 atmospheres crammed down an engines throat. I love boost, but it's not for my 2 bolt factory block. With an aftermarket block. Better internals, twin turbos, fuel injection, fuel tech electronics. Heck yes it would make triple the power. But you need to have the $ to build something that last more than a few runs. I don't know how many turbo cars I've seen blown-up due to the weakest link. Depends on what you want & can spend. If you just want the fastest thing in the world, go top fuel, or proline or Steve Morris. But that takes big $ if you've ever priced one. Out of most guys league. Yea you can ebay turbo an LS engine reasonably, and it might last a while depending on boost levels & tuning acumen. But I'll puke if I see another turbo LS. Especially in a Ford Mustang!
I had the same problem with spark plugs with a 548 bbc, we talked to srp and they said the notch in the piston was accidentally manufactured 0.50 over to one side we notched the piston 0.50 over sloved the spark plug issue, three sets of pistons we had this issue with.
Great combo Eric. Factory parts can be great. 351 Cleveland, factory crank ,rods and 4V heads are awesome, these Ford Engines make incredible and reliable horsepower.
That's cool. I built one almost exactly like that with the same heads, same short block, intake. Only difference was cam about 10 degrees bigger and lift about .060" shorter and it made 713 hp with a 950 carb, they are great heads for a budget build like that
Very Respectable Budget build. Another mention is now with a Dyno tune you can properly set up gear/tire size and torque convertor . Dyno time is well worth it.
Nice work Eric! So that would be a no on nitrous! Especially if they don’t know how to tune nitrous! Either way, thin cylinders & stock rods at that power level to start with, will turn a working engine into a pile quickly!
So, it's a 475 CID being the bore is 4.375 which is a little over plus 1/3rd point of compression over a 468's 4.310 bore, depending on combination... it's 10 to 20 of the HP on top. With a 47cc dome .041 head gasket and a 115cc ish chamber will yield 13.2: to 13.5:1 top. Hope you do an update when its tore down and dissected, hope someone throw's a degree wheel on it and checks the intake centerline location. N/A the block can go another .005 and have a special piston or .005 skirt coatings. That block can yet be ran for many years treated right.
@@WeingartnerRacing Got it, I missed the .100 over statement. The cam numbers makin 740 befuddle me, I had to watch it again. Hope you seen Straub's 475CID video makin 818HP with the twin Holley's & Pro Maxx Shocker cylinder heads. Very impressive. It's only Fiat money, backed by more ink & paper. Thanks for the feedback.
On a big block Team G... the "as cast" plenum is a debacle; the runner entries are drastically mis-matched, & the runner entries are low. Plenum porting only can up HP 30 to 40. Equally size the runner entries (runner length considered) & raise the ports in the plenum as much as possible with a large radius at the top. Team G is a tremendous intake, with only porting work in the plenum.
I wish I can get my engine dynoed but man I wish I can afford to do it so I can get it fully dialed and whatever. Like the engine I just ran 2 days ago it was fast as heck the one you did refresh on heads on the only thing is it kept overheating but it didn't puke out any water out of the overfill hose or radiator so I was confused on what was going on. Some say if you put the temperature sensor in the head that is close to the exhaust it might get false readings try it in the intake. Some say I am to lean even though I had more jet than others, or I am thinking my fuel pressure might be a little low because I do feel stumble just barley. Or I don't know what it could be but anyways motor was fast but was fighting the car being tight but was spinning to so many just image I had more power from your ported intake then I would have a harder time with the car lol I couldn't even stomp on it hardly at all because it would spin and be tight
Thank you for your knowledge and videos USA 🇺🇸 TRUMP
BBC's are still the best bang for your buck. They are also still relatively plentiful. Not the popular choice among the hipster crowd but, the technology is proven and results can't be argued with.
It's refreshing to see good "bang for the buck" engine builds. Good, smart parts choices can make decent power on a decent budget.
That's a good example of good running low dollar engine.perfect bracket motor
That's a good example of good running low dollar engine.perfect bracket motor
LOTS of power in factory parts. I see a ton of people paging through a summit or jegs catalog spending alot more money only to miss the mark.
There is ALOT of marketing B.S. out there.
Proper assembly procedure for those who don't know... with the heads off, you index all plugs with ground straps down toward the piston, then sit a head on the block with no head gasket and two un-tightened bolts, manually rotate engine and when or if the head lifts... pull the plug and rotate again. A must procedure anytime a piston dome extends above the deck. Gasket thickness dictates additional clearance after proper fitment.
Good solid advice, Lindy tool makes a tool that screws right in the plug hole to clearance for this.
Cam and induction is where power is made this is kicking ass stock block crank and rods
Awesome love to start Monday Morning with a EW video
That engine is more or less a LS7 (+1 full point of compression) short block with the benefit of modern heads, cam, induction and dyno tuning. And the thing rips off an extra 200+ HP! Awesome.
468 cubic inches? a 4.350 bore would make it a 475. not that 7 more cubic inches is making that much of a difference.
You are correct but nobody would know what Im talking about if I said 475
@@WeingartnerRacing yeah, I hear ya. I tell people I have a 475 and they look at me like what the heck...
@@WeingartnerRacing is this a mark IV block? And you stated it’s maxed out right?
Some can go to 4.375” but you really need to sonic test the block
Looks like this video didn't get much air time. I wonder why? Think this is a prime example of a low buck racing engine.
I built a few yellow engines for oval track. Yes easier to find oil leaks, but that makes it easier for the officials to notice them too. A small valve cover leak can look like it's a big leak.
I ran into the crossed msd wire situation also.my builder caught it as soon as he put the timing light on it. This is in the msd trouble shooting instructions
Team G intake POS ??? only before port work, mostly plenum work needed. (runner entry's matched, raise & radius @ roof) Hard to believe a cam that opens @ 20° BTDC and a Bad intake is makin 740HP. You can easily pick up 30/40HP in plenum porting providing the intake is as cast.
This is very similar to my engine. Mine is a 4.310 bore 468. In the early 90's I bought the entire AFR top end. At the time AFR had used Brodix 305 cc rect. port head. Brodix cast AFR's logo in the valve spring area. AFR ported the Team-G intake including plenum work. Looking at the runners from the plenum area, the runners are tall and a little narrow. Heads flowed 347 short/ 367 long. 10.3 comp 91 octane pump gas made 705 hp and 588 tq. Don't know how other intakes compare but I believe the Team G works well with this smaller volume heads.
I enjoy all your videos.Thanks for sharing your knowledge….!
What was the vacuum on the 2 carbs
Never measured
I still love building N/A engines and this one is nice. Not everyone wants to make power with 2,3 or 4 atmospheres crammed down an engines throat. I love boost, but it's not for my 2 bolt factory block. With an aftermarket block. Better internals, twin turbos, fuel injection, fuel tech electronics. Heck yes it would make triple the power. But you need to have the $ to build something that last more than a few runs. I don't know how many turbo cars I've seen blown-up due to the weakest link. Depends on what you want & can spend. If you just want the fastest thing in the world, go top fuel, or proline or Steve Morris. But that takes big $ if you've ever priced one. Out of most guys league. Yea you can ebay turbo an LS engine reasonably, and it might last a while depending on boost levels & tuning acumen. But I'll puke if I see another turbo LS. Especially in a Ford Mustang!
I had the same problem with spark plugs with a 548 bbc, we talked to srp and they said the notch in the piston was accidentally manufactured 0.50 over to one side we notched the piston 0.50 over sloved the spark plug issue, three sets of pistons we had this issue with.
Great combo Eric. Factory parts can be great. 351 Cleveland, factory crank ,rods and 4V heads are awesome, these Ford Engines make incredible and reliable horsepower.
That's cool. I built one almost exactly like that with the same heads, same short block, intake. Only difference was cam about 10 degrees bigger and lift about .060" shorter and it made 713 hp with a 950 carb, they are great heads for a budget build like that
Very Respectable Budget build. Another mention is now with a Dyno tune you can properly set up gear/tire size and torque convertor . Dyno time is well worth it.
Nice work Eric! So that would be a no on nitrous! Especially if they don’t know how to tune nitrous! Either way, thin cylinders & stock rods at that power level to start with, will turn a working engine into a pile quickly!
The comment about the dyno session being a good deal is true, if the dyno operator truly knows what they`re doing.
The guy that builds 600hp pump gas small blocks brings us a big block
Awesome stuff Eric. Always enjoy your videos.
short sweet video, right to the point, and we had a dyno pull too. Awesome!
That’s good power for a small engine with smaller heads
Great cam ang good heads
So, it's a 475 CID being the bore is 4.375 which is a little over plus 1/3rd point of compression over a 468's 4.310 bore, depending on combination... it's 10 to 20 of the HP on top. With a 47cc dome .041 head gasket and a 115cc ish chamber will yield 13.2: to 13.5:1 top. Hope you do an update when its tore down and dissected, hope someone throw's a degree wheel on it and checks the intake centerline location. N/A the block can go another .005 and have a special piston or .005 skirt coatings. That block can yet be ran for many years treated right.
Yes it’s 475 but as I said in other comments if I said that instead of 468 nobody would know what I’m talking about
@@WeingartnerRacing Got it, I missed the .100 over statement. The cam numbers makin 740 befuddle me, I had to watch it again. Hope you seen Straub's 475CID video makin 818HP with the twin Holley's & Pro Maxx Shocker cylinder heads. Very impressive. It's only Fiat money, backed by more ink & paper. Thanks for the feedback.
I can't believe that 468 is makin 740HP... I think someone bumped the calibration a hundred points, 640HP would be more like it.
Nope
I make low 6s with a 468 with 11:1 and a .657/.640 and 258/252 at .050 cam. So I can most definitely see 740 pretty easily at 13.5:1
@@wesleyaitken8756 What Weight?
Whys team g a pos .... i have ran them for years on sbc with really good results... another question can u regrind a sbc cam...
The dyno test on the sbc the team g was almost the worst.
On a big block Team G... the "as cast" plenum is a debacle; the runner entries are drastically mis-matched, & the runner entries are low. Plenum porting only can up HP 30 to 40. Equally size the runner entries (runner length considered) & raise the ports in the plenum as much as possible with a large radius at the top. Team G is a tremendous intake, with only porting work in the plenum.
Awesome
Thanks for sharing, all the best to you and your loved ones
I wish I can get my engine dynoed but man I wish I can afford to do it so I can get it fully dialed and whatever. Like the engine I just ran 2 days ago it was fast as heck the one you did refresh on heads on the only thing is it kept overheating but it didn't puke out any water out of the overfill hose or radiator so I was confused on what was going on. Some say if you put the temperature sensor in the head that is close to the exhaust it might get false readings try it in the intake. Some say I am to lean even though I had more jet than others, or I am thinking my fuel pressure might be a little low because I do feel stumble just barley. Or I don't know what it could be but anyways motor was fast but was fighting the car being tight but was spinning to so many just image I had more power from your ported intake then I would have a harder time with the car lol I couldn't even stomp on it hardly at all because it would spin and be tight
Dude, you're pissing time away.
BOOST!!!!!!