I have an unconventional cure to get a secure pinion gear: If you drill a small hole laterally along the shaft body between it and the pinion gear and then chase threads into it, you can screw an appropriate bolt into that gap hole, spreading it tight between the two with the threads locking everything into place
Hey i just wanted to let you know the circlip idea wont work, yhe main and biggest issue of all bn gear drives is that there is nothing aside from the green loctite thats having axial load from riding being applied to it. Therefore since there is no load being placed on the gear drive casing itself or thrust bearing seat that can also absorb axial load, putting a circlip will not bandaid patch the issue. In fact clip will be near immediately destroyed and could cause you to get launched off your board. The best thing in your case is to surface scratch the inside of the motor pinion, motor shaft and keyway. That way the green loctite will adhere better and hopefully make the loctite last longer. You still will have to chnage out the loctite on the drive every 2-3 months of active riding. Or u can sell these drives and get apex jump drives so you dont have to deal with this issue, i personally been using bn m1 streets and i have to deal with the same problem which is dangerous and annoying to deal with. And one more thing it doesnt matter what matter wat voltage your at with bn gds, the torque from any voltage can cause the green loctite to break.
Only time will tell with the circlip but I disagree with your statement about it being a band aid. The C-Clamp that I put on the outside in combination with the epoxy held so there’s no reason that a C-Clip on the inside with a grove won’t work. Apex uses the same model with their gear drives so you’re contradicting yourself because you referenced a product that relies on C-Clips but say it won’t work?
@@Mooney.esk8 im not contradicting myself because if you actually take a good look at how apex jump drives can be setup, option one is use there motors which allows you to use a c-clamp without the need of loctite because again the thrust bearing thats seated inside of the gear drive case is taking the axial load that would otherwise be transferred to the c clip causing it to break and its applying said load to the bearing and the case. And the second setup, where you use your own motors on jump drives requires loctite but thats again just to hold the pinion to the shaft, the physical axial load itself its still be transferred to the bearing and gear casing meaning no load is being applied to the loctite so you dont have to worry about over time from doing rides the loctite breaking. Your method of using not only a c clamp but also epoxy to hopefully hold the pinion on the shaft and preventing it from backing out simply will not work and depending on if the epoxy even is sticking to the metal and how heat resistant it is will for sure break and more then likely cause you to crash. It is still a bandaid patch to a problem you cant solve yourself, you can ask Kevin (boardnamics) yourself because i already chatted with him about this weeks ago.
I see what you’re saying about the thrust bearing and if I could use that option, I would but I didn’t think it would be viable with the shape of the motor shaft hole. I used JB weld for a good while on this same setup and it worked for over 1000 miles but it eventually slid loose because of how perfect the shaft was. I should’ve mentioned it in the video but I did grind down small imperfections in the shaft so the epoxy has more places to stay. I don’t believe that it’ll cause me to crash becase even if the circlip breaks or whatever which imo, I don’t think will happen, you can hear the noise that it makes pretty quickly and say worst case scenario, it locks up a wheel. I’m binded in and have dealt with similar issue before. The point of the video was to offer a possible solution that’s inferred by the question mark too. If it ends up not working, I’ll admit I’m wrong and make another video!
I have an unconventional cure to get a secure pinion gear: If you drill a small hole laterally along the shaft body between it and the pinion gear and then chase threads into it, you can screw an appropriate bolt into that gap hole, spreading it tight between the two with the threads locking everything into place
That could work pretty well too. Would you be drilling into the pinion and shaft along the shaft if I’m understanding correctly?
@@Mooney.esk8 exactly. There’d be a half channel on each part for the screw to thread into, kinda like the flat, which is where i’d drill.
Hey i just wanted to let you know the circlip idea wont work, yhe main and biggest issue of all bn gear drives is that there is nothing aside from the green loctite thats having axial load from riding being applied to it. Therefore since there is no load being placed on the gear drive casing itself or thrust bearing seat that can also absorb axial load, putting a circlip will not bandaid patch the issue. In fact clip will be near immediately destroyed and could cause you to get launched off your board.
The best thing in your case is to surface scratch the inside of the motor pinion, motor shaft and keyway. That way the green loctite will adhere better and hopefully make the loctite last longer. You still will have to chnage out the loctite on the drive every 2-3 months of active riding.
Or u can sell these drives and get apex jump drives so you dont have to deal with this issue, i personally been using bn m1 streets and i have to deal with the same problem which is dangerous and annoying to deal with.
And one more thing it doesnt matter what matter wat voltage your at with bn gds, the torque from any voltage can cause the green loctite to break.
Only time will tell with the circlip but I disagree with your statement about it being a band aid. The C-Clamp that I put on the outside in combination with the epoxy held so there’s no reason that a C-Clip on the inside with a grove won’t work. Apex uses the same model with their gear drives so you’re contradicting yourself because you referenced a product that relies on C-Clips but say it won’t work?
@@Mooney.esk8 im not contradicting myself because if you actually take a good look at how apex jump drives can be setup, option one is use there motors which allows you to use a c-clamp without the need of loctite because again the thrust bearing thats seated inside of the gear drive case is taking the axial load that would otherwise be transferred to the c clip causing it to break and its applying said load to the bearing and the case.
And the second setup, where you use your own motors on jump drives requires loctite but thats again just to hold the pinion to the shaft, the physical axial load itself its still be transferred to the bearing and gear casing meaning no load is being applied to the loctite so you dont have to worry about over time from doing rides the loctite breaking.
Your method of using not only a c clamp but also epoxy to hopefully hold the pinion on the shaft and preventing it from backing out simply will not work and depending on if the epoxy even is sticking to the metal and how heat resistant it is will for sure break and more then likely cause you to crash. It is still a bandaid patch to a problem you cant solve yourself, you can ask Kevin (boardnamics) yourself because i already chatted with him about this weeks ago.
I see what you’re saying about the thrust bearing and if I could use that option, I would but I didn’t think it would be viable with the shape of the motor shaft hole. I used JB weld for a good while on this same setup and it worked for over 1000 miles but it eventually slid loose because of how perfect the shaft was.
I should’ve mentioned it in the video but I did grind down small imperfections in the shaft so the epoxy has more places to stay. I don’t believe that it’ll cause me to crash becase even if the circlip breaks or whatever which imo, I don’t think will happen, you can hear the noise that it makes pretty quickly and say worst case scenario, it locks up a wheel. I’m binded in and have dealt with similar issue before. The point of the video was to offer a possible solution that’s inferred by the question mark too. If it ends up not working, I’ll admit I’m wrong and make another video!
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