2006 Mazda 3, 2.0 L engine. I'm in the middle of replacing the CV axle, seal, wheel bearing, and control arm ball joint. Got the axle from Autozone (Duralast Gold 10462N). Website said it was the correct part. It looked right, but wouldn't go all the way into the transmission. Turns out there are multiple versions of this axle around 2006-07. Measured the old vs new splines and they were different. The Autozone guy looked up and pulled out multiple axles that were supposed to fit and nothing matched the OEM. Then he looked up 2007 axles, and Duralast 10454N matched the original. My car must've been built during a transition. What a PITA!
I hate when that happens. With how technologically advanced we are these days you would think that they would have that up-to-date in their parts system.
👍Thanks for this vid dude. Had a lot of people saying pull the tie rod, pull the whole knuckle, pull the strut and LCA, people saying how stuck the axle was going to be. I followed your video and was done in 45mins or so in my driveway. Although im working on a Mazda 5, its the same set up.
I shoulda watched this first. Oh well. One note: torque specs on that axle nut is 173 - 202 ft/lbs. It kinda looked like you didn't put much on that one.
You don't necessarily have to replace the seal. I just inspected mine, they still looked fine. Obviously be careful putting in the splines so you don't damage the seal.
2006 Mazda 3, 2.0 L engine.
I'm in the middle of replacing the CV axle, seal, wheel bearing, and control arm ball joint. Got the axle from Autozone (Duralast Gold 10462N). Website said it was the correct part. It looked right, but wouldn't go all the way into the transmission.
Turns out there are multiple versions of this axle around 2006-07. Measured the old vs new splines and they were different. The Autozone guy looked up and pulled out multiple axles that were supposed to fit and nothing matched the OEM. Then he looked up 2007 axles, and Duralast 10454N matched the original. My car must've been built during a transition. What a PITA!
I hate when that happens. With how technologically advanced we are these days you would think that they would have that up-to-date in their parts system.
👍Thanks for this vid dude. Had a lot of people saying pull the tie rod, pull the whole knuckle, pull the strut and LCA, people saying how stuck the axle was going to be. I followed your video and was done in 45mins or so in my driveway. Although im working on a Mazda 5, its the same set up.
Glad to hear it boss man 👍
Im sure its the same on my 2012 Mazda 3 skyactiv. You make it look real easy.
It should definitely be similar. Best of luck with your repair.
I shoulda watched this first. Oh well. One note: torque specs on that axle nut is 173 - 202 ft/lbs. It kinda looked like you didn't put much on that one.
Hi i was looking to buy a cv axle on rockauto but i dont find the seal and it doesnt say if it comes with it did yours come with the new axle ?
No the axle seal has to be bought separate.
You don't necessarily have to replace the seal. I just inspected mine, they still looked fine. Obviously be careful putting in the splines so you don't damage the seal.
Look at your local auto part store, i got one for 12$ bucks