I highly recommend first using reflective bubble foil insulation against the metal sheeting. This is to prevent moisture from penetrating into the pink insulation when the metal sweats during temperature changes. If you don't do that, you will end up with black mold all over the pink insulation which will cause sickness.
Hey thanks for making this video. I have a 30’x35’ metal building. I “insulated” the walls with the foam board like everyone else on UA-cam and I insulated the ceiling with blue tex. I have a 36k btu mini split in the building and still can’t seem to get the building up to 60 degrees without running my wood stove at the same time as the mini split. Think changing the foam board out with rock wool would help??
The rock wool would certainly increase the R value. The reason I built the walls was to get a solid 3 1/2 inches of insulation in the walls, and 10 inches in the ceiling. You could swap the foam board with rock wool or you could maybe figure out a way to add the rock wool to the walls leaving the foam board in place.
I am sure it is ventilating well. The nature of these buildings is that they are very drafty. The rockwool is mold and moisture resistant so I am sure it is fine.
I plan on doing this same thing. Have you had any problems with condensation. I’m debating if I want to add BlueTex™ Pro 2mm Super Wide 62" Foil/ foam for a vapor barrier on the metal studs with 2” air gap. Not sure if this is necessary or not.
Thank you so much too but I really trying to figure out what material that Polly Polly Catherine stuff I don’t know but I just wanna know what it is and thank you so much again
Love your videos on framing and insulating your steel shop. It's pretty much what I want to do and way less than spray foam. Quick question, after framing and insulating are there any drawbacks to potentially having condensation from the ribs behind your frame-out and trusses above getting trapped behind there?
I did a couple things to hopefully prevent any mold or issues from condensation. My framing obviously doesn't sit against the metal to draw in moisture. Also, the Roxul insulation doesn't sit against the metal, and it is mold and moisture resistant. There is an air gap about 2 and a half inches where the metal framing separates my framed walls and the corrugated metal, so there should be a good air flow to keep things dried out.
I have a question?? I live in a 120+ year old home. The Fix N Flipper that bought the house put stucco on the outside frame of the house with no insulation and inside is thick plaster walls. THIS house is COLD in Winter. Can you tell me what I can do to stay warm? (I am not selling my house and moving) Should I take the plaster off the inside walls and put in insulation and dry wall? Thank you
what my wife an I did in our old house was cut channels in the plaster and lathe walls, ran our plumbing and electrical work, and than covered all the walls with 3/8ths thick drywall as we were really putting a vaneer over the plaster and didn't need the strength of 1/2 inch drywall. For your house, I would have a company that puts foam insulation in walls, like US Insulation here in the Pittsburgh Pennsylvania area, where they drill holes in the inside or outside of the walls of your house and fill them with foam insulation. I would have them drill holes in the inside walls, do their work, and then use something like Plaster of Paris or Easy Sand 5 drywall compound and mesh drywall tape to repair the holes as the holes for the installation installation shouldn't be more than an inch wide.
The braces are c channels so I just put insulation around them. The problem is metal conducts heat to a certain extent so even with the insulation, the metal braces will be cold if the rest of the building is cold.
If you notice in the framing, the inside structure is completely separate from the metal building. I didn't want any unnecessary stress on the building so I kept the two structures independent. You could still frame with the walls being insulated.
![TOSOT Mini-Split Installation [Electrical Emphasis]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/DaJp_DCxlJM/mqdefault.jpg)
![TOSOT Mini-Split Installation [Electrical Emphasis]](/img/tr.png)
Thank you for sharing these ideas!
Great info
I highly recommend first using reflective bubble foil insulation against the metal sheeting. This is to prevent moisture from penetrating into the pink insulation when the metal sweats during temperature changes. If you don't do that, you will end up with black mold all over the pink insulation which will cause sickness.
i am trying to figure out what insulation for my metal garage and i was wondering this exact thing
This is not true. He has the vapor barrier set up correctly to prevent any issues.
Check out more Metal Garage videos here:
ua-cam.com/play/PLLeTRuTziDk6iU3eXPWaWMI-0D6C5LRui.html
Hey thanks for making this video. I have a 30’x35’ metal building. I “insulated” the walls with the foam board like everyone else on UA-cam and I insulated the ceiling with blue tex. I have a 36k btu mini split in the building and still can’t seem to get the building up to 60 degrees without running my wood stove at the same time as the mini split. Think changing the foam board out with rock wool would help??
The rock wool would certainly increase the R value. The reason I built the walls was to get a solid 3 1/2 inches of insulation in the walls, and 10 inches in the ceiling. You could swap the foam board with rock wool or you could maybe figure out a way to add the rock wool to the walls leaving the foam board in place.
You probably just have air leaks.
Did you had and mold on the Rockwool so far? Is the air between sheet metal and Rockwool circulating enough?
I am sure it is ventilating well. The nature of these buildings is that they are very drafty. The rockwool is mold and moisture resistant so I am sure it is fine.
I plan on doing this same thing. Have you had any problems with condensation. I’m debating if I want to add BlueTex™ Pro 2mm Super Wide 62" Foil/ foam for a vapor barrier on the metal studs with 2” air gap. Not sure if this is necessary or not.
I was gonna ask the same thing
Did you go with the BlueTex?
Thank you so much too but I really trying to figure out what material that Polly Polly Catherine stuff I don’t know but I just wanna know what it is and thank you so much again
I'm sorry, what material are you wondering about?
Polyurethane fabric factory laminated for a nice white interior finish for the metal building made from steel building insulation division corp
Love your videos on framing and insulating your steel shop. It's pretty much what I want to do and way less than spray foam. Quick question, after framing and insulating are there any drawbacks to potentially having condensation from the ribs behind your frame-out and trusses above getting trapped behind there?
I did a couple things to hopefully prevent any mold or issues from condensation. My framing obviously doesn't sit against the metal to draw in moisture. Also, the Roxul insulation doesn't sit against the metal, and it is mold and moisture resistant. There is an air gap about 2 and a half inches where the metal framing separates my framed walls and the corrugated metal, so there should be a good air flow to keep things dried out.
@@brettleybuilt Ah, thanks for the info. So this was about a year ago? How has the design been working so far? Keeping cool and warm when should?
Kraft paper is not a vapour barrier, its a smart vapour barrier, meaning it has less penetration when dry and more when wet, so it dries both ways.
I have a question?? I live in a 120+ year old home. The Fix N Flipper that bought the house put stucco on the outside frame of the house with no insulation and inside is thick plaster walls. THIS house is COLD in Winter. Can you tell me what I can do to stay warm? (I am not selling my house and moving) Should I take the plaster off the inside walls and put in insulation and dry wall? Thank you
what my wife an I did in our old house was cut channels in the plaster and lathe walls, ran our plumbing and electrical work, and than covered all the walls with 3/8ths thick drywall as we were really putting a vaneer over the plaster and didn't need the strength of 1/2 inch drywall. For your house, I would have a company that puts foam insulation in walls, like US Insulation here in the Pittsburgh Pennsylvania area, where they drill holes in the inside or outside of the walls of your house and fill them with foam insulation. I would have them drill holes in the inside walls, do their work, and then use something like Plaster of Paris or Easy Sand 5 drywall compound and mesh drywall tape to repair the holes as the holes for the installation installation shouldn't be more than an inch wide.
@@brettleybuilt Thank you we will try that.
Those braces could you have drilled a hole at the top and sprayed foam in a can to fill it ?
The braces are c channels so I just put insulation around them. The problem is metal conducts heat to a certain extent so even with the insulation, the metal braces will be cold if the rest of the building is cold.
@@brettleybuilt oh i didn't realize they were that way
How could I put up walls if I didn’t frame before getting spray foam insulation?
If you notice in the framing, the inside structure is completely separate from the metal building. I didn't want any unnecessary stress on the building so I kept the two structures independent. You could still frame with the walls being insulated.
What is "Rockswill?"
Packages said “Rockwool”
"Please don't put it in the comments" Comment got my Like!!!!