How To Set Intonation On A Stratocaster
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- Опубліковано 6 жов 2024
- How to set the Intonation On a Fender Stratocaster. Highwood Saddle Install
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To be clear, harmonic or fretted note is not the issue. You cannot set the intonation with anything except the fretted note. Because intonation compensates for fretting-induced sharpening (not really the 'thickness of the strings'). You move the saddle to lengthen the string's scale length enough to flatten the fretted note back to the true 12th fret pitch (or shorten the scale if the fretted note happens to be flat). On the other hand the 12th fret harmonic and open string are always exactly an octave apart (unless it's a bad string). So the only choice is do you compare fretted note to the harmonic, or fretted note to the open string - either works. Without the fretted note you would have nothing to adjust.
On my Strats I've found that bringing the saddles all the way back as the starting point takes the stress off of the screw threads because you're moving the saddles forward in the adjustments which is far less pressure on the screws than trying to screw them to move the saddles backwards.
I do the same thing. It allows you to adjust under string tension. Let the saddle screw out a little. Retune the string. Check intonation. Repeat until done. I do the same with action. Raise the saddles high. Tune. Let the saddles down until correct height, retune. Check it’s right. It’s just faster and eliminates the, “Wait, do I let it out or bring it in? It’s sharp. I think…”
What?
A very helpful and instructional video. Thank you, Dylan!
When the original saddles on my '62 Strat rusted out, I replaced them with the Highwood saddles. First, the tone of the guitar did not change, at least not for the worse. It's still a '62 Start in every way that it was before.
Second. it is nice not to have those damn' screws poking my hand. No big deal, but better than before.
A win, win as far as I'm concerned.
For me, the actual measurement of the string distance from the nut to the 12th fret and from the 12th fret to the saddle is irrelevant. I know that's the reality of the thing, but all I care about is that the guitar plays in tune with itself. An octave should be more or less an octave, etc.
I learned to set the high strings slightly sharp at the 12th fret and the low strings slightly flat. This "stretched" tuning works just fine to my ears.
I mean, these guitars are NOT by any means precision instruments and the moment we touch them the tuning varies, so I don't sweat intonation and such very much. After a few moments playing I want the guitar to disappear, anyway.
Oh, and I don't tune on the open strings but at the third fret because that's closer to where I play most of time.
"That is, you can't, you know, tune in but it's all right.
That is, I think it's not too bad."
Thank you for the awesome video. The Highwood Saddles are AMAZING!
Excellent video, Dylan. As someone forever challenged by the technical aspects of guitars, I truly appreciate your straightforward explanations and solutions to an age old problem. Thank you! KMan
I fucking love your channel dude. You are EASILY one of the greatest on UA-cam, and ive seen pretty much anyone of any significance, and many less known. Top notch material and honest advice, bro.
You've nailed it man....easy to understand/follow etc and easy on the brain.
Great video. I also don't really have a problem with the saddle ends cutting into me. Next do the Tune-o-matic bridge.
'saddle ends' or screws in the saddles sitting high? I buy 8mm and 6mm saddle screws since cheap guitars generally have all 10 mm saddle height screws. 8mm seems to be the usual solution to get adjustability and make the screw end disappear into the saddle. I do NOT use bent steel old fashioned saddles, but rather real steel solid block saddles....
I just did in my washburn mg24, a strat style guitar, (30 years old), thanks for the confirmation and even more fine tuning on my understanding of what I did and what has to be done.
Hi Dylan, great video, very helpful. One more thing to keep in mind is to set the saddles to the same radius of the fret board. Always look forward to your new videos, good job!
Thank you Dylan. God bless you in all that you do.
Get shorter adjusting screws if they are sticking up too high! Callaham makes Strat bridges out of cold rolled steel!
So does Wilkinson 👌🏻
Really good point about fretting the 12th, as opposed to using harmonics when setting the intonation. I've always fretted the guitar when playing it. I never played it using harmonics.
Great Saddles...I'm surprised that Fender could not come up with this improvement ?
They did. They replaced the bent steel saddles with block saddles on some of their models.
@@domoniquebrooks816 That's a reply from someone who hasn't got a clue.
Highwood Saddles are great, I have them on 2 of my Strats.
Do you work for Highwood ?
@@benallmark9671 nope just got tired of scraping the side of my hand.
@@ramoncruz2405 nice , I was just being a smart ass.
Hey Dylan, thanks for posting this video. Very helpful and I enjoy your explanations- cheers
Unca Stu
Perth, west Australia 🇦🇺
Nice video, measuring the scale length and not starting blind is a good tip, another comment mentioned the callaham saddles, so my question is what do you think about the heavy strat trem blocks that they sell for helping tone?
I set my intonation to the 3rd fret which gives me more accuracy all through the fretboard. I only do this on my floating bridge Strats.
i do the same thing start measuring from the second inch cuz it’s more accurate
Great video, makes for a good refresher for me. The Highwood saddles on the other hand seem like a band-aid solution for a problem that was solved by block saddles along time ago. I always use either brass or stainless steel machined blocks on my guitars and haven't looked back to the vintage bent steel type saddles even once.
That Strat has such great tone; is it being recorded through and amp, or through a mixer or some sort of a direct box? Thanks for posting!
You've misunderstood the how and why some people use a harmonic to intonate a guitar. The idea is not to intonate harmonic against the open string (which is indeed pointless), but to intonate the fretted note against the harmonic.
The low E on a Strat can be problematic, even on a nicely set up guitar with normal string gauges (10-46). I've had to remove the spring from the intonation screw to get enough travel to the bridge because the spring was totally compressed. At that point, the screw is very close to hitting the string as well. Not an uncommon issue (google for it). FWIW, my particular problem child is a G&L Legacy (Strat) from the mid-90s.
I wonder if anyone makes a shorter saddle for the low E or maybe even a set of compensated saddles?
low E is always the one bouncing around sharp/flat... not just on strats
Yep.
Something mite be wrong with your guitar as there should be enough room to adjust he low E saddle. The nut of your guitar could be high, the low E slot in the nut particularly, your neck could have to much relief or the string height is off. Either way, something is out of adjustment.
Sometimes the bass E string saddle cannot be moved rearward and the spring can be snipped in half or even removed to allow rearward saddle movement to get it intonated.
Hi Dylan, Enjoy your channel very informational and educational (cool stuff). What do you know about SIRE guitars ? and can you review them ?
Old video but interesting, if you fret the 12th fret you are actually pitching the string right? so it will be a tiny bit off, I think whatever method is used it could be based on the players style of play, example, if he only play guitar riffs and soloing all day, then by all means, I think fretting the 12th fret would probably be the best and most accurate method, but lets say he is only doing chords and play open tunes, then I probably should use harmonics because he is using mostly open strings. just a thought?
Hi Dylan, love your videos! One question: do you consider Polytune3 by TC Electronic a good tuner for intonation jobs? Thanks for the answer!
awesome🎉
I've intonated my strat in the past with good results. Last night after a much needed string change I cant seem to intonate it? Any adjustments on the saddles are not making any difference on the 12th fret. It doesnt make sense.
What is string height are you using?
What do you measure your string height at the 12th fret at? Great video!
At fret 12, I find that 2/32" is right for the treble E up to the A string and the bass E string gap is about 3/32" from fret top to string bottom. It may be a tiny bit different for you if you press harder or softer on strings...
Don't use the 12th fret, it's less accurate, use the 17th fret with a 64th ruler. For the neck relief, set that so at the 7th fret it will read 3/64ths from the bottom of the string to the top of the 7th fret, then head for the action setup, 3/64 for the high E to D, then 4/64 for A and E low, then intonate. You can also try D as 4/64 if that's too low for your liking but this will give you a good low action.
👍
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