Using SPRAY FOAM INSULATION In My Van! Closed Cell
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- Опубліковано 14 жов 2024
- I took the plunge and got a spray foam insulation kit to finally insulate my Peugeot Boxer camper van. The kit was great fun to use and I am hoping it is an effective insulator but time will tell. I do think it has saved me money already though.
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I think its a great time saver and the knock-test was impressive already. And regarding 'ruining your van' I would never want to take the armaflex off my van walls, it will be a total mess also. Great job, looking forward to updates!
Great video. I also used spray foam in my van and am very pleased with it. The spray foam not only acts as a great insulator (stops conduction of heat), it also stops condensation (rust inhibitor) and muffles a great deal of road noise. The only thing I did not spray was inside the support channels because I wanted to be able to pull/replace electrical wiring in the future.
Yeah I personally did spray in the channels as I will be running my cable over the top, cheers for the info!
@@HughTube I've been doing my homework on spray foam insulating the van I'm about to purchase, and there is some worrisome videos about the heating curing process altering the metal of the van either the exterior interior. I would love to hear from the two of you about how you feel a year later about the spray foam as opposed to the other options.
Glad you did this , its what I'm looking at doing 👍cheers
The vents are used to let air pressure escape when you close the doors. Otherwise you'd have a hard time closing the door. Well... Unless there is a roof vent, other door or window open to let the temporary pressure build up escape.
ooohh! that makes sense! cheers for that
Should be mega ! Condensation can’t form on a metal surface if it’s bonded to foam 👍
You’ve got balls biting the bullet doing that ! It’s one of those jobs where if you’d done half a dozen before your own you’d be laughing !
Those flappy vents are there to release the pressure build - up from closing the doors. Even cars have these flaps.
thanks for showing us how you did this and for going into so much detail... really very informative and helpful!!!! she looks great!!!
Awesome vid. I’ve always been semi against the idea of using expanding foam as insulation however after seeing this my opinion has definitely changed
Fascinating to watch. Hope you are pleased with the final result. Thanks for sharing 👍
pleased so far, hopefully it is a good insulator
I'm sure someone will say it but there's very little off gassing from closed cell spray foam, off gassing will come from open cell spray foam as the foam is full of small bubbles which not only allows the gas to pass through but will also allow water inside the foam. So after about 3-5 minutes the surface of the closed cell spray foam hardens then over 24 hours the whole foam hardens and there's no air bubbles in closed cell foam so no gasses pass through. Open cell foam will soak up water like a sponge, closed cell won't. Closed cell is a very good sound deadener and as said in the video, makes a great vapour barrier once the surface hardens. Tests have been done with closed cell spray foam which shows structural vehicle strength is also increased with closed cell spray foam. The only downside is when it comes to welding, the foam is a little bit flammable so make sure all welding work is done before you spray your van. At around 6.5 'R' value per inch thickness, it's a great insulator and only beaten by AeroGel open cell foam which is 7.0 'R' value BUT is friggin expensive !!. :)
Thanks for all this, great points!
Thanks for that info above...and to both of you! Cheers
Hi. I followed your videos earlier in the year while converting my Transit custom. Having just dropped in to see what you're up to I happened on your spray foam video. First I thought why did he bother doing it himself? But rechecking I realised your best contractor quote was £900!! I got mine professionally done with closed cell for €200. He normally does houses but had done a good few campers for a professional outfit. And the lad cut back the floor to level for me, plus a lot of the other excess bits. In response to a poster re windows: I did install the two windows and the roof vent. Just make sure ye cover/mask them well. And be careful masking door seals etc. also. I told him not to bother with a couple of spots that had a lot of factory wires and did them myself with some rockwool I had from an attic job. I had also installed battens for the ceiling boards and upper presses beforehand - mainly because I had installed plusnuts (great!) and didn't want to 'lose them'. Anyways throwing in my tuppence worth now because you gave me some good tips . And by the way my conversion (lockdown project) came out lovely.
cheers Seamus, you are very lucky to get it done for €200 that's an amazing deal
@@HughTube @seamus have you got some links to the pro guys.? I'm starting my build over the next few weeks and now I'm contemplating foaming it. Keen to ring around first. though Given it's my first build I might fork out the additional for a pro but might have to check their work out first as well.
Hiya buddy. I've returned to this vid again. several months later and still very impressed. When I get my van I think I'll be giving this spray insulation a whirl. Thanks for your very informative vid. Appreciated, Des
Epic job, I've been so tempted to do this on my conversation and now definitely thanks to this brilliant guide.
Cheers Jon
cutting a layer out from a closed cell foam does NOT brake the vapour barrier as the foam itself is closed cell foam so you can cut it how ever you want. It is true on open cell foam sprays (normal urethane spray).
i'm in the planning & research stage and this has made me think again about insulation!! I'm OK and have experience installing electric hardware (many youtube videos), but am dreading running all those cables and how best to do (not many....|Videos) and tips e.g. is it better to have a number 'local' of distribution fuse boxes to cut down on cbling etc. I am very interested to see how you do this 'on top' without impacting van aesthetics. Many thanks for all your videos Hugh
I planned to have my batteries and chargers at the back corner of my van on the passenger or nearside of the van. I am going to run some cables directly up the channel where the rear light is to power all the LED lights and a further cable to power the LED wall switch plus one cable from my inverter to a mains socket near that switch. for my other appliances I am going to run a larger fused positive and negative cable to a distribution board behind my kitchen as that is where most of my 12v electrical items will be situated. As there is an air gap between the ply walls and insulation that is where I will be running conduit to run the cable neatly behind the walls but with easier access. Sorry for long message
Awesome video Hugh, as always giving good tips and advices! I might probably do it on my next build!
It's a great time saver for sure, hoping it stands up over time 😊
First time I’ve seen someone in the Uk do this. Great results 👍
Thanks 👍
Great job 👏 impressive and brave to do this for the first time and on your own van too! 😎👍 huge respect.
now i wish id have done this mate , and totally agree great job
@@UrbanVanlife really should have got my green tick Neil. ✅... definitely worth it 👍
Hi Hugh. You have done a very good job on this spray foam insulation.
thank you very much!
I had mine done up in Bolton, £269 (2011) roof, sides doors and floor min 25mm deep most nearer to 50mm, insulation levels were really good winter and summer.
wow great price!
Who was this with please???
Great video, definitely works out cheap when you factor in all the time saving alone. I don't know how many days I spent insulating with celotex, vapour barrier etc...well I do...it must have been more than a week.
Hiya buddy. Really enjoying your vids mate. What did you use to clean the van with please? Degreaser or anything in particular? Thanks a bunch mate, Des
Hi Des I gave the van a very quick wipe down and visual check for areas of dust and grease. I tried not to use super aggressive chemicals but rather soapy water which was thoroughly dried
If I were doing another van, I would do this. Saves so much time. I hope you didn't spray over the rear light access? The thing with these van's is that they are galvanised. I still have a roof cut out and only the very edge has corroded. So you could drill a hole and add no protection and not a lot will happen. From what what I've read, put the tanks in bins filled with hot water.👍
no foam over rear light access, yeah wanted the van to still be easily accessible for jobs like this. great tip about the tanks in water
Brave man, I just started with a transit trend 460 minibus, nice and quiet in the back, factory heating and air con for the rear. Not going to insulate, just have a very good heating system, lots of air movement to allow drying behind the factory panels. Yours is definitely insulated though.
Cheers Simon!
Fair play, squeaky bum cheeks time, I’d be terrified but a much more efficient way of doing insulation. Will try this on my next build. Time saving is a no brainier, so depends how much you value your time I suppose. This method is the way forward. great vid. Very informative
Thanks Jay
Your brave. Will be interested in how this performs and will it stay together with all the vibrations while driving. Its a big time saver though, thanks for showing us how.
thats not being brave its just getting it done , cutting your roof out is brave lol
Hey , I found this video by accident! This is amazing. I also have a camper van like yours being conversion in China. Thanks for the video, it gave me a lot of inspiration！
Awesome! thanks so much
Yep I'd recommend always using mastic sealing tape as well as sikaflex trust me I speak from experience I had an awful time with my roof vent on my transit there would be no leaks when I tested it and when it rained but then a couple weeks later when and it rained I'd get a tiny drip inside the van because I didn't use enough mastic tape and sika flex. It was quite frustrating in the end my roof vent had to be re-done three times.
3 times!!! dude I do not envy you but thanks for sharing!
Whilst the canisters of product you used had a recommended temperature range, does the surface you are spraying it onto also have a temperature requirement. Obviously not so cold as to have condensation (or even ice) forming on the surface, and also in anticipation of warmer weather next year, is there a maximum - I’m thinking of a dark or black van parked in the sun next summer. A link to the product you used, containing this sort of information, would be much appreciated thank you. Great work as always 👍
Hi Ian, you are right, the surface your spraying should also be between 21-32 degrees for 'best' results but luckily the temp outside that day was about 16 degrees so I just went for it
great video mate , we are just at the end of our new build and I wish id have done this to mine at the start , it would have saves so so much time and just seems better , a mate of mine got his done by a company and it cost him £1000 but seeing you do it , I'm going to have to show him just to annoy him that he could have saves money , and may I add that your job and the pro-company job are totally the same . great vid
cheers matey, yeah I couldn't bring myself to dish out £1000
Good job not something I'd have thought to do but might do if I build another van. Also its probably lighter than sound deadening, celotex etc.
Hey, Hugh. I understand this is a fairly old (relatively speaking) video and likely u will not reply, but I was wondering if u became aware of any immediate sound deadening qualities from this product? I imagine this has also had a rather dramatic effect on panel vibration as well? If u could possibly update me/us with ur opinion on these matters, and let me know if u have had sufficient time with this product to confirm that u are pleased u did it this way, I would be very grateful, mate. Thanks in advance.
*EDIT:* For anyone who may be considering this, from what I have learned it is best to start at the top and work _down_ ur van, because the cylinders are at their highest pressure to start with. Obviously as u deplete the contents and the pressure, if u have left the roof till last, u may not get the application/coverage u would wish for.
Hello matey, so I noticed the sound deadening immediately on the first drive after application. Was really impressed, even if I was just using it as a works van I would now consider using the foam again for that reason and to keep the temp regulated.
And yeah you are right about the pressure the ceiling on mine isn’t coated as well as the walls so I am going to use a bit from Bens kit he just got to top the roof up.
Also I would definitely say that along with warming the tanks up, also heat up the van inside for spraying
@@HughTube Ok, I figured it would have a very noticeable affect, but wanted to be sure. Thanks for replying buddy. Great work, love ur vids. Stay safe, mate.
@@grimuk3817
Watch at 21:07 that tells you all you need to know about the sound and vibration deadening.
Great vid, well done, I work with a guy that uses that foam insulation in the Building trade, Its Highly toxic stuff and will give off nasty gases for quite a while even after installation, He said he would never put it in a confined space such as a van as it, needs to be completely sealed in a cavity to be safe and work properly insulation wise, He wears a full on sealed body suit when applying it after his best mate past away with lung cancer, he was 43 and a none smoker, I think the safety of this is product for camper vans is very much in its infancy and best avoided for peace of mind
he may be using a different type of spray foam, a lot of professionals who install the foam that I spoke to said that this type of spray foam is safe after 24 hours
@@HughTube I really hope your right, but do take care for future projects, and research the product well to be safe
Interesting with the spray foam. Does it not make the van to rigid. Or is that a good thing?
Looks like a great job. Have seen on some videos that spray foam can warp the metal and its noticeable on the outside of the van. Did you see anything like this?
Yeah, there doesn't seem to be any warping to the steel on my van. All smooth sailing this end
Looks fab! Good job 😎👍🏼
So, I reckon the pros are making about 100£ an hour. Not bad for a half-days work!
Thanks for showing it's doable with no experience. Wonder how much more insulated you could get adding reflectix or such?
Very brave mate. Is this van yours or is it for a customer? If I did another van project I would definitely use the foam. You’re an inspiration!!!
Thanks so much Mark! It is my van, I wouldn't feel happy doing it for a customer without some prior experience
Great videos, really useful for newbies. About the spray foam, given we've had some really terrible weather in the UK over the last few months and now starting to get some warm weather have you had the chance to test it to see if it's better than the alternatives you've used in the past?
And from the company link you provided in other comments, they offer two systems, did you pick Touch N Foam over Froth Pak just from a price point of view?
I'm very interested just in the time saving alone but have lots of windows so wondering whether any benefits might be lost. Lots to consider!
Thanks! Yeah the weather was bad recently, we just came back from a hot weekend away where the temp was around 22-26C and a lot of direct sunshine and the van stayed a really comfortable temp inside. We have been really impressed so far. I chose the touch n foam but have no idea if one system is better than the other!
Great video, couple questions what size is the van and did you have any chemicals left, as seen they do a smaller version for around the £300 mark
Hi Thomas, I have an L3H2 yes there was some foam left. You could cover a transporter with the smaller kit but my size van may be a bit of a stretch unless you didn't spray the floor
@@HughTube
You could use spray foam on the sides and top and Celotex on the floor and use a smaller cheaper spray system to cut costs a little. You don't need the sound deadening on the floor and it's really easy to lay strips of Celotex on it and then foil tape it to get your vapour barrier. It would also make mods or repairs to the floor a lot easier, if the panels were removable to run wires, pipes etc.
Nice video! Do you have an idea of how thick your foam is on average?
I did go round the van with a stiff bit of wire and prodded through until I hit the van shell. It was amazingly even in most areas at 25mm
HI Hugh, thanks for posting this, its very informative. I'm looking at doing the sae thing to our van and its given me the confidence of tackling it now. A quick question if I may. Its not clear to me from the video if you sprayed over the hard to cover with wood surfaces (Ie the bits that would normally be carpeted) if you did, how did you achieve a smooth finish and has the carpet stuck to the insulation foam OK? Many thanks.
ahh yes so you will always end up with a bumpy surface but for those areas i did a quick pass to get a thin coat, then sanded or used a sharp knife to flatten the surface and the carpet sticks well tot he surface of the foam
How do you like it so far?
Did it warp your van panels?
How much did it cost you ?
So pleased to see this actually being done by someone that has not attempted it before ,so well done and it looks a pucker job. I have been toying with this for my van and i think it will be the best and most efficient way to go. Plus it has the extra bonus of really stiffening up the panels of the van . Only one thing that i was thinking is, should you have run all your cabling first!
hey John I personally chose to not pre run my main amount of cables just because it would have been a nightmare to change anything in the future. I find I am always changing stuff around in my van so something more modular works better for me
Hi what's thickness is recommended for the insolation cheers good vid as always
if spray instructions are followed it comes out at about 25mm once cured per pass
Did you notice any deformation on the outside wall? I want to do the same in my next build but I saw a video that the guy said tried in 3 different van and all so them they had to removed because cause deformation on the sheet metal outside.
He might not of used the correct foam, If you don't use closed cell, just regular builders stuff it expands a lot
Yeah there was no deformation at all, try to use the closed cell foam, not sure what the guy you mentioned used but the more common foam that you usually get out a can is not what you want to use
Hey Hugh, really appreciating all of the knowledge you share on your channel - question - what do you reckon for this spray foam with fibreglass roofing/aluminium roof sticks - we're doing a luton box van conversion at the moment and are questioning whether this might be the way to go - knowing that fibreglass can change with temperature - expand/contract do you think this would be a suitable option? Plus with the 600 kit did you have much leftover - our van is an old removals luton so a lot larger than the Peugeot - more like your mate's one that he's been steadily converting...? Cheers :)
Hi Ben, very interesting question the 600 kit was able to cover 50sqm at 25mm so should be able to do the luton. Not sure how the foam will act with expanding and contracting, sorry i can't help there.
@@HughTube Cheers dude! Thanks for replying - well I'll keep on researching and see :)
Brave man!
What kind of coverage would you get from the kit ? Do you think you'd get a luton done for instance?
Hi Roy, yes indeed. the 600 kit can apparently cover 50-60sqm in the right conditions to 25mm thick
Thanks @@HughTube for the reply 👍 considering doing a luton , and my head is spinning with ideas , after seeing a van pull up and start blowing polystyrene cavity insulation , another idea 😄
That’s such a cool workshop. What is the rent like? Trying to find something similar
which kit did you use Hugh?... Also do you think the kit is different to the cans you can buy and attach a nozzle/gun to. There are large cans od spray foam you can buy in hardware stores, wondering if its the same stuff?
It was a froth pak kit but after looking it looks like the price has gone up a bit since last. A friend of mine recently just found the single cans that you put a nozzle on and they are way way cheaper. They have to be closed cell foam though and his are. He has a lwb transit and apparently will be able to do the whole inside for £140!! I will be interested to see how it finally comes out and if it proves itself but potentially a great alternative
Well done mate
Nice one Hugh, you made it look alot less daunting.
Do you have a link to where you got the kit?
www.abbuildingproducts.co.uk/touch-n-foam-600-spray-foam-insulation-kits.html
thats the kit i got and was pretty pleased with it as you can tell haha
@@HughTubekit is now £1000 😂
Wouldn't it make more sense to do the ceiling first then fill the crevices first then do the side panels?
Could there be a downside to spraying 2 coats of foam, in that the second coat is sealing in the first and could delay off-gassing? Reading some other comments, the upside of 2 thin coats are probably less likely to distort the panels, especially as you only put about an inch of foam on them. mind you, I'm surprised one 1inch is thick enough to give you the insulation you need.
Great video. Thank you. I am thinking of doing this to my new camper conversion. Which kit did you buy? Thank you.
www.abbuildingproducts.co.uk/touch-n-foam-600-spray-foam-insulation-kits.html
Fiy that link doesn't work anymore, maybe they removed that kit, I only found the other kit on ther site
Have you heard whether this type of closed cell insulation would work on the underbelly of an toy hauler? I’ve already purchased the kit but I’m hoping it’ll be okay exposed to the elements.
Hi Bailey, I would speak to a full time installer of the foam but from what I have seen I wouldn't like to use this on the exterior as I feel it will get hammered by road grit etc over time
Good job mate so my question is after a year, did the foam warped the skin of your van?.
What is the approximate R value of the foam. looks good and quite neat I thought it would get more mess than it did.
6.5 per inch
Did you fill all the support beams solid too?
Hey bud! Not solid but I did spray in there to give them a coating
Hi Hugh, I’m also in Dorset. I’m thinking of going this way with my horsebox, but paying a company to do it. You said you were quoted about £900, who was that from?
think it was thermofoam or arrow insulation in bournemouth
nice one fella
Great video, what kit did you use and where did you buy it?
used a closed cell 600 kit i got from abbuildingproducts
Nice vid. What thickness of battens did you use on the floor?
25mm the same as what the foam should expand to
Let's hope it never gets damaged and needs a replacement panel welded in
What difference does it make? It would still be a nightmare if it wasn't foam but bitumen vibration damping, various insulation, timber everywhere plus fixtures fittings, pipes wiring, nightmare either way. I think I'd rather use fire resistant foam than anything else inside a camper to make it safer if you need repairs where heat is the only option to cut, grind or burn away old metal.
Hugh...unrelated, but did I see you on a TV advert the other day? 😁
haha yes on a hobbycraft advert lol. wasn't expecting so many people to see it
@@HughTube haha I certainly had to double take!
Interesting! 2 layers. Sonif you cut the top-Layer You still have a water vapor barrier.😮
So 2 years past would you still recommend spray foam insulation ? I’m thinking of doing it to my van ? Soo much quicker
Ok, at this time Did it Insulate Correctly as good as it should?
Is there anything you would change?
Is the foam Highest Quality?
Thanks Hugh, what size (kg) foam kit did you use, and do you know if it was just about right or tonnes left over, Just about to get my van but its a bit smaller cheers
I had 26 sqm to cover and the 600 kit probably has a third left, i reckon you could just about get away with the 200 kit on a smaller van
I would like to purchase the product you used in your van, would you be willing to provide the link or name of the spray foam product?
Hi did you fill in the holes at the bottom along the sides.
I've got a condensation issue in my overhead cab where I couldn't insulate due to hard to reach areas. What kind of spray foam did you use and did it expand much as I'm looking for one that doesn't expand too much
Have I just seen you on the Hobby Craft advert?
haha yes
@@HughTube Nice work dude!
11:22 are these to equalize the pressure when i fart?
Hugh, you forgot to do the affiliate links in the description.
Did you install windows after the spray foam install?
A year on how did it fair out ? Is there any condensation forming while sleeping in it over night
Share the link to the kit please 👌🏼
Looks awesome
if you google 'spray foam insulation kit' a few options come up. look for the 600 kits to get enough spray area, although you may be able to get away with a 200 kit on a small van
I've heard that spray foam insulated vans can't have any welding work done due to the foam being flammable. Does anyone know if this is true? I'm asking because I'd like to go with this option of insulating as it's quick and cheap but I only have a small budget for a van so it's likely to have rust in certain parts that may need welding in the future.
Open cell spray foam is flammable, closed cell will burn but takes a lot more to get it started.
@@sunnydaze6974 I heard this too and what you say makes a lot of sense! Like trying to start a fire with a log
the bits that normally need welding wernt spray foamed
did you learn anymore about cutting the foam and it losing its outer sheen affecting the R value as it sort of seals itself off?
Would it make sense to spray the underside of the vehicle with it?
not sure how well it would adhere to the sealing paint on the underside and would also worry about debris breaking it apart over time during driving
@@HughTube no it will fail the M O T
Other videos say that it distorts the outside metal? Any help on this
I don't see any red lead etc to protect the cut edges of the metal.
I used a black edge sealing paint instead of your standard red oxide paint
Bit late but thought I would point you in the direction of another sealing tape, there is an art to fitting it you put it in the jount then let it expand. I used it on 32 storie tower blocks to seal widowes etc on the facade of the building
www.illbruck.com/en_GB/product/tp600-compriband-600/
Awesome Mick! Cheers for this, will look into this for future vent sealing
Hi m8 just s quick question ive noticed you've done a quite a few insulation jobs now just wondering what one do u feel happiest and most secure about.
Also are there any things you look back on now when doing the spray foam insulation and think I should of done it this way or that way instead.
Also were did you get the 2 bottle kit from and have you found it cheaper yet anywhere
I love the spray foam as it’s sound deadening, insulation and vapour barrier all in one and goes up so fast and gets in all the small areas. The only issue is price and it’s very much permanent ha. I still think going for sound deadening panels with PIR board in larger areas and something like recycled plastic bottle insulation to fill the trickier areas covered by a vapour barrier is still a fantastic option.
If I used the spray foam again I would make sure to tape and cover EVERYTHING I didn’t want foam on. I forgot to tape over the rubber seals in mine so got freckles of foam on them and it’s a nightmare to get off.
Got my foam kit from ‘a building supplies’ and they seem to be very competitive. But I would definitely recommend asking around at local companies that do spray foam insulation professionally as they may offer some great advice and also may even do your van for a good price and they’re pros
Mate...thank you so much...excellent vlog,, .... is there a R value per sqm? Thanks
apparently 6.5
Is 6.5 good?
@@janemack1933 Its on the high end of the scale, I've yet to come across anything higher that's still reasonably priced and not thousands
That's some craz insulation!!!! Check ours! Self adhesive
Nice work! Do you have a link for that lovely skylight window?
www.jacksonsleisure.com/caravan-motorhome/dometic-seitz-heki-2-caravan-and-motorhome-roof-light/
Would it be good to put wiring in first?
Not worth it.
I've spent two winters in my ProMaster, snowboarding. Dress warm, sleep in thermals and socks.
Easy to reuse nozzles! Clean with acetone.!!!!
cheers Len
Great job Hugh, What is the name or link for the foam kit please ?.. thankyou 👍👍🚙
if you google 'spray foam insulation kit' a few options come up. look for the 600 kits to get enough spray area, although you may be able to get away with a 200 kit on a small van
@@HughTube Thanks for the info 👍👍🚙
Are you not having windows in your van then !?
not yet, I feel I may add some later down the line but want to see what it's like without
Sorry, I've seen loads of people using this tape and with this type of roof light it's the wrong way to go. Mastic tape is fantastic for sealing but...heki rooflights (that dont have screws securing it through the roof and into a solid structure on the inside) should NOT use mastic tape. What you are doing by using mastic tape is making a weak bond between the rooflight and the roof. Use sikaflex (or a specialist bonding agent of your choice) and fill all the highs and lows in the roof and gently push the rooflight into place. When it has cured it will be bonded down and, as you have said will take 2 hours to remove. Then apply a final (sealing bead) around you rooflight. If this is done correctly and ALL surfaces and keyed and cleaned it will never move or leak. By using mastic tape, then sikaflex you are basically sticking the rooflight to the tape and not the roof itself. If you would prefer to fill the undulations in the roof use plastic fillers which are bonded in place before the rooflight is fitted. Hope you can see why mastic tape is not designed for this application. Good luck Mick
Hi Micheal Gillman... Wnen you say to lower the skylight/vent into place, and wait until the Sikaflex has cured... do you mean to screw the skylight/etc down tight right away and let it cure, or do you mean to nearly fully tighten it down, then once it's fully cured, tighten the last little bit (so it's like you're pressing down into a "gasket" of Sikaflex) before running the final edge bead?
What about your windows? Wouldn’t you do those first?
not having windows for now
Where in Dorset are you?
Ferndown area
Do you have a link for the kit?
www.abbuildingproducts.co.uk/touch-n-foam-600-spray-foam-insulation-kits.html
There's a company on eBay that sells tins of closed cell insulation its called polynor pro 28pc kit of it for £142 thought it was reasonable for that.. Not sure what area it covers though
Think its from poland
Just put this up for others who might want to do it..
Nice job you've done from what I've seen of others there's a bit of an art to it dono how easy it would be with them individual tins.
Interestingly that is the same company this foam came from according to link. I was thinking of maybe using that (Polynor) so will call them to ask for comparative info. There are videos of people using it in vans.
Were did you get the kit thanks
if you google 'spray foam insulation kit' a few options come up. look for the 600 kits to get enough spray area, although you may be able to get away with a 200 kit on a small van
Thanks hugh