Correct, but that still wouldn’t solve this issue. The issue is the rebuilds draw more current than the factory style single wire voltage regulator will handle. Thus, I had to upgrade my voltage regulator to the newer style adjustable regulator rated for 10 amps, which is why I had to upgrade to the two wire alternator too.
Ok so I should put back the insulating washer back on the field terminal and buy a pig tail to connect both wires to the new mopar eletronic voltage regulator?
All you had to do was attach one of the field connections on the square back alternator to ground and use your original regulator.
Correct, but that still wouldn’t solve this issue. The issue is the rebuilds draw more current than the factory style single wire voltage regulator will handle. Thus, I had to upgrade my voltage regulator to the newer style adjustable regulator rated for 10 amps, which is why I had to upgrade to the two wire alternator too.
@@markshep03might one have to do the same thing if installing a higher amp alternator?
@@qntmxiii- Yes. The high output is why the rotor (field circuit) draws so much more current.
Since the voltage regulator is adjustable, how do you know where to set it?
I have a one wire alternator on my car it is a 1972 a body Dodge dart
Did you have to ground one of the field terminals on the back of the alternator?
Yes, if you use the older style regular. I switched to the new style two wire regulator. Very easy install and they are rated for higher amps.
Ok so I should put back the insulating washer back on the field terminal and buy a pig tail to connect both wires to the new mopar eletronic voltage regulator?