Thanks I'll try to shim up all the lose ends and I also use rubber bands and use it as bushing for the ball joints to soften any play so it isn't so boldly wonky
Ive had the Kraton v5 for two weeks I’ve shimmed the diffs, broke the rear wing bracket, bent the rear shocks, bent a front shock,bent the rear mount, slightly bent the chassis at the rear and blown two tyres and the shocks have leaked at the rear!! this is me being careful lol
I’ve just made a video on the ultimate basher, well my ultimate basher, and a lot of the bits I’ve done to it are also on my exb 6s . I’ll have it edited in the next day or so and it might give you some ideas on upgrades to help with durability. I did a ground up build and it just runs and runs and take a beating. A lot of it is about control and learning what the car can and can’t do and air control on jumps. When I put the video up please let me know if it helps you at all 👍🏻
@@bradjrc196 nice one Brad have been looking and trying to decide which upgrades to buy I look forward to seeing your video...I kinda love and hate the Kraton at the moment lol 👍🏻
My first rc car ewer ,started with nitro one , and i was for a suprise how sloppy ewerything is on those , i always thought ewerything its nice and tight and nice quality , exactly oposite 😂 Shimmed my swing arms , whell hubs , spindles , and now im on the slop in ball joints for stearing and upper controll arms , any adwice on that ?
Oh nice one , well with the upper arms I use small washers each end of the pin/ screw and if it’s a rpm arm I put a couple of small nuts in the middle of the arm to stop to much flex / movement. Ball joints you can use plastic washers/shims as well. It’s trial end error really to see what works.
Thanks for the tips unfortunately the heat didn't help me. Still stripped even though the hex was clean and the locktite was liquid. I almost feel like it was potentially cross threaded from the factory
Update: tapped a new hex into the set screw and got it out. Threads were in real bad shape. I'm on the fence between factory cross threaded and damage from extraction. Leaning cross threaded to protect my fragile ego 😂
But wouldn’t a bit of play reduce or dampen the strain and stress on the whole drive train? Is removing all play in the wheel really good for the car’s durability? Honest question
You will never remove all the play as you want them to move freely, but taking out as much play as you can will help reduce the extra ware it can cause on other parts and give the car a more precise feel.
This is true , it’s still very free moving. When I have brought new arrma trucks they were never this loose . For me I just feel that if it has to much slop it will wear parts around it more but thank you for your comment I will keep it in mind 👍🏻
Very informative video. Now I know what to do. Thank you for this video
Glad it helped buddy.
Awesome info brother! That will come in handy on my speed build too!… thanks for sharing! Subbed to ya!!
Nice one glad it helped and appreciate the sub 👍🏻
Thanks I'll try to shim up all the lose ends and I also use rubber bands and use it as bushing for the ball joints to soften any play so it isn't so boldly wonky
Nice one glad the video helped, makes a difference when everything is not slopping around
This helps me😌
Just down mine and it worked a treat …… what size have you used for your arrma kraton 8s ???
I’ve not done any in the k8 yet as it’s not been run a great deal to need it.
Cheers Brad this is helpful for an arrma noob lol 😀
Ive had the Kraton v5 for two weeks I’ve shimmed the diffs, broke the rear wing bracket, bent the rear shocks, bent a front shock,bent the rear mount, slightly bent the chassis at the rear and blown two tyres and the shocks have leaked at the rear!! this is me being careful lol
I’ve just made a video on the ultimate basher, well my ultimate basher, and a lot of the bits I’ve done to it are also on my exb 6s . I’ll have it edited in the next day or so and it might give you some ideas on upgrades to help with durability. I did a ground up build and it just runs and runs and take a beating. A lot of it is about control and learning what the car can and can’t do and air control on jumps. When I put the video up please let me know if it helps you at all 👍🏻
@@bradjrc196 nice one Brad have been looking and trying to decide which upgrades to buy I look forward to seeing your video...I kinda love and hate the Kraton at the moment lol 👍🏻
I’ve got a lot of slop in my Traxxas Sledge front and rear hubs I was thinking something was loose
Try doing something along these lines to reduce the play and thank you for watching and hope this helps.
My first rc car ewer ,started with nitro one , and i was for a suprise how sloppy ewerything is on those , i always thought ewerything its nice and tight and nice quality , exactly oposite 😂
Shimmed my swing arms , whell hubs , spindles , and now im on the slop in ball joints for stearing and upper controll arms , any adwice on that ?
Oh nice one , well with the upper arms I use small washers each end of the pin/ screw and if it’s a rpm arm I put a couple of small nuts in the middle of the arm to stop to much flex / movement. Ball joints you can use plastic washers/shims as well. It’s trial end error really to see what works.
Thanks for the tips unfortunately the heat didn't help me. Still stripped even though the hex was clean and the locktite was liquid. I almost feel like it was potentially cross threaded from the factory
Update: tapped a new hex into the set screw and got it out. Threads were in real bad shape. I'm on the fence between factory cross threaded and damage from extraction. Leaning cross threaded to protect my fragile ego 😂
But wouldn’t a bit of play reduce or dampen the strain and stress on the whole drive train? Is removing all play in the wheel really good for the car’s durability? Honest question
You will never remove all the play as you want them to move freely, but taking out as much play as you can will help reduce the extra ware it can cause on other parts and give the car a more precise feel.
@@bradjrc196 got it, thanks!
Where can I purchase these, and will they fit the arrma Mojave?
You can buy them on Amazon buddy and should fit the mojave
Is there a little white/clear piece in the wheel where you put the hex screw in ??
No just the shim to the bearing
8x12 what
Loose is fast….tight makes them break easier. Just run them!
This is true , it’s still very free moving. When I have brought new arrma trucks they were never this loose . For me I just feel that if it has to much slop it will wear parts around it more but thank you for your comment I will keep it in mind 👍🏻
@@bradjrc196 understood, been running RC for 30+ years…..there is no right or wrong way so long as it’s fun. Thanks for the good videos
@@markrusk2870 very true and thank you for your support it means a lot 👍🏻
Looser better for me it kills my battery faster and makes it slower good point tho