Thanks Terry! Just installed the new werks basket taking my time especially on the gasket surfaces, took just under 3hrs. Chudder is completely gone and the motor purrs again! The dedication to your craft is greatly appreciated Sir.
OK. So I never leave comments on UA-cam. But I had to make an exception. Thank you so very much Terry. Everything from placing the order to the super fast response time and even faster shipping was a pleasure to do business with you sir. And this video was the topping on the cake. Having a step by step walk through of disassembly and reassembly made this job a breeze. I asked Terry for everything I would need. And he delivered. An absolute must if you have the clutch chudder of the vtwin I have a 2003 sv1000s with only 13k on it. But the chudder made riding a choir. I received the werks basket and installed it today. The bike runs better than new. The chudder is completely gone and the low end torque is back. An absolute breath of fresh air into my bike. Thank you sir Terry. 100% recommend Werks Baskets. Don't second guess it. Pull the trigger....
Thanks Terry as I was able to install your clutch basket correctly and the bike now feels like new again. Had to watch video a couple of times making sure all was put together correctly but with it, a success all the way.
I finally got the v strom together....I had this vicious overheat problem...im thinking that i failed to line up the impeller shaft with the key hole in the gear cause that baby broke right off...I thought it was the thermostat, then the electric temp switch. It took a few months to realize the impeller spun freely. Wait..is it supposed to do that? lol....Anyway, after Sir Terry re-did the clutch basked 6 months ago and today is the first day of riding it...and man o man, what a sweet heart is it!....It used to chug like a tank at lower RPMs. Now? nothing...Thanks to this gentleman....Kudos Terry..!!..From San Francisco....
Thank you for the detailed video, they are few and far between on the internet these days. A friend picked up an 03 dl1000. It wasn't well maintained before he got it and has higher milage, will mention your shop to him and that he should keep you clutch basket in mind,
Yes, the modifications made to the clutch baskets that WERKS Parts makes eliminate the chance for the inner plate to wear into the aluminum basket or to develop stress cracks. The precision bronze bearing machined into the aluminum basket is much more wear resistant than the factory cast aluminum surface. Plus the WERKS Pro builds have a second bearing added to the outer plate. ONLY available through WERKS Parts! This keeps the basket stabilized and the parts aligned better. It takes some load off the main bearing as well. There are WERKS clutch baskets with over 100,000 miles and still going strong!
The 2014+ models are different than what is shown. Check a service manual if you have a 2014 or newer. Basically the last three plates get installed into the clutch pressure plate and the last plate you put into it gets rotated so it will go into the short slots in the basket. My 2014 it smoother and quieter after the install.
Good to hear that! The purpose of the video is not to be a model for a technical college teaching motorcycle courses. It is to lead an owner through the details of how the parts fit together and in what order. To show what needs removed and what does not. A basic primer on the process. But the MOST important thing I address in the video is the things NOT to do!
This was a great video but my heart sank when I went to the website and saw that you've retired. Any thoughts on reliable alternative suppliers would be appreciated.
Even so...the 650's to on occasion require clutch plate replacement. Usually due to incorrect adjustment, but if used hard off road they can be short lived too. This isn't a 650, but they have a similar setup so many things still apply.
Thank you! When I set out to do this video I was getting e-mails or calls about every day from owners having issues with clutch basket installation. The video dropped that to maybe 5 times a month! So I know it helps and I am glad to help. I need to do one on the later 2014 and up models.
this is the single most helpful video on clutch baskets in the internet. Is there a lot of difference for the 2014+ models ? it will be great if you do :)
@@danielfalin Aside from the difference in the body work and getting to the radiator cap and reservoir tank, the only real difference is in the inner hub assembly. The 2014+ DL 1000 has a very nice "slipper or back torque limiting" hub/pressure plate assembly. These give a MUCH lighter lever pull and have some other benefits as well. So far they seem to hold up well, but these models are much more sensitive to having the hydraulic clutch components working in tip top shape. They are known to have some issues with the plates dragging even with the clutch lever pulled in.
@@werkspartsllc7856 Hoping to get some advice. On the highway wide open throttle, my clutch is slipping. Only 18k miles on bike. I have already cleaned the rod behind slave cylinder, as this was all gunked up. Are there other adjustments that I can try before calling the clutch done?
@@rocketj7449 Assuming this is an SV or DL 1000...Have you installed aftermarket levers? Those are a VERY common cause of clutch slippage problems. Cleaning the pushrod is good. Checking it for straightness is good too! Next up is the slave cylinder. These can get gunked up too. Which causes them to not fully retract....and the clutch slips. If it is corroded/gunked badly I would replace it. Some that have a good piston and bore can be rebuilt...but the cost for the kit isn't too cheap and the whole assembly isn't really high in cost.
Its best to remove the water pump cover - it makes a lot easier to line up the slot in the cam chain axle thingy with the counterpart on the back of the impeller axle when mounting it. Its always a good idea to clean the O-ring groove on the pump cover...
Having removed over 100 clutch covers off these bikes I can say that removing the water pump only adds to the time and complexity of doing a clutch upgrade. It is very easy to align the shaft to the engine, just don't use force. If the water pump isn't leaking, especially on bikes under 80,000 miles, removing it isn't helping the bike.
I always do. I probably only did around 50 of them, but in my opinion it helps the reassembly so you dont have to align anything in advance - just twist the impeller and the cover pops back in. The main issue is that i live in Denmark, and we use salt on the roads during winter time - so the O-ring groove for the pump cover usually leaks if its not cleaned before reassembly due to mild corrosion. :)
This is likely due to the hydraulic clutch actuation system being neglected. These are self adjusting....but when not maintained they don't function properly. Flush out the system with fresh fluid and bleed it well. That usually helps and should be done annually.
I have not done engine internals before. I assume you don't need to remove the engine but it looks like you want to drain coolant and engine oil. Anything else need to be done prior to the install? Can you tell me the model number on your EBC removal tool? The only part that makes no sense to me is the "peening" of the piece of metal before and after you remove the clutch nut. If someone can elaborate more on that I would appreciate it. Thanks for the awesome video.
You do have to drain the oil and coolant. But you don't remove the engine. Simply remove the "clutch cover". In fact you don't even need to remove the water pump. "Peening" is the process of indenting a metal part to lock it in position. The clutch hub nuts are "peened" where the nut flange overhangs the grooves in the transmission input shaft. This keeps the nut from backing off. For removal you have to lift this peened down area to remove the nut. Then, once tightened, you peen down an area above the groove/slot in the transmission shaft to again lock it into place.
Thank you for a really clear instruction in replacing the clutch basket. I have a dl650 and when I release the clutch when in neutral, I can hear a rumbling noise, It reminds me of a thrust bearing type of rumble, I can see there are a couple of bearings the larger bearing behind the basket, and the smaller bearing right near the end of reassembly, could it be one of these bearings, or maybe something else within the clutch assembly? The noise only started recently, I may be a little paranoid, because when I hear it, I can’t help but think it’s getting louder! Does anyone have any thoughts about what may be going on here? I can’t imagine after 20,000 miles the clutch would be worn to the point it’s causing any major issues, or could it? The year model is 2008 and I have owned it a couple of years, I have probably rode a couple of thousand miles in this time. Thanks again for a very clearly explained and demonstrated vid 👍
Andy, I rather doubt your noises are associated with the clutch basket. Two things to remember. First is that when you pull in the clutch lever , the clutch basket does NOT stop turning! It is mechanically connected to the crankshaft gear and if the engine is turning, so is the clutch basket. Second is that there are a lot more bearings, gears, and shafts spinning in the transmission that slow or stop when you pull in the clutch lever. Even with a modified basket, it will always be a bit quieter when you pull in the clutch lever. All those rotating parts make a bit of noise and slowing or stopping some of them simply makes less noise. Transmission bearing issues are almost non existent on these bikes. I would listen to another DL 650 to see how it sounds. I suspect your noises are quite normal!
I live in northern Ireland and have an SV 1000 I really like it,,but the clutch rattle just ruins the enjoyment,,I will look you up on the internet,, to see if you sell the modded basket,,☘️☘️☘️ from Belfast
The reason that the factory outer clutch fibre disc goes in the short slots, is that it makes the clutch either not slip at all when it Works and the pack is above minimum thickness, or slip so much that you can hardly get the bike to move when the clutch pack is worn out.Consider it a stern warning mechanism that your clutch pack has bought the bullet and is in need of replacement NOW... :)Riding with a clutch pack that is near its end of life and therefor slipping, will contaminate the oil and easily ruin the main or big end rod bearings.
I have measured clutch packs with over 300,000 miles on them out of a DL 1000. They were still in service specs. There is a video here of that clutch basket inspection. The "short slot" position has to do with moving stress around at the outer edge of the basket.
A Suzuki tech i spoke to, gave me the above explanation, and one fibre disc doesnt move much stress around, i think? Hell i dont know for sure, but i guess there's more than one answer depending on who you ask. :DTo this day i have never seen a worn out clutch pack on any of the 1000cc Suzuki V-Twins. :)
I cannot say what the "whine" is without listening to it. But it can be any number of things. I highly doubt it is coming from the clutch basket. The DL 650 is a completely different design and shows virtually none of the issues the design of the DL 1000 can give. Under load....tends to make me think it is simply gear meshing noise.
@@werkspartsllc7856 I wasnt sure if it was a bearing related issue, ive only just got the bike so still learning about its 'quirks' :), thanks for replying
Hi, I saw several of your videos about the suzukis sv1000s clutch basket and I want to tell you that I have the same problem, could you solve it or if I could buy you one that you already have? I am looking for someone serious who knows how to do it and until now I have not found him. Please answer me. I am writing to you from Barcelona Spain
Most any motorcycle shop ( Independent shops as well as Suzuki and some other brands ) will be glad to do an installation of a WERKS modified clutch basket. You will simply have to contact those in your area to find one you feel comfortable with. Typically they are going to charge 2-3 hours labor to do this job. I sell a lot of new OEM baskets with WERKS modifications to international customers. No return shipping or shipping your basket to me required. Take as much time as needed to install them. Currently a new OEM SV 1000 clutch basket with Standard Level build service costs $655 US. Add $75 shipping to Europe to that ($730 US total shipped ).
@@werkspartsllc7856 I need the piece rectified in its entirety for you, the assembly will be done in my workshop. I just need you to do the work of eliminating all the gaps. or exchange my piece for one that you already have rectified, paying you all the work. Can you do it? Thank you
No, there are important differences. The SV 1000 has double springs internally, which are much stronger. The SV makes more power and needs the stronger springs to control those power pulses. The SV 1000 also has a different top plate. Which is the same shape as the 2014+ DL 1000, but carries a different part number as it is heat treated differently. The inner hub assembly is completely different from the 2002-2012 DL 1000 and 2014+ DL 1000.
Thanks Terry! Just installed the new werks basket taking my time especially on the gasket surfaces, took just under 3hrs. Chudder is completely gone and the motor purrs again! The dedication to your craft is greatly appreciated Sir.
OK. So I never leave comments on UA-cam. But I had to make an exception. Thank you so very much Terry. Everything from placing the order to the super fast response time and even faster shipping was a pleasure to do business with you sir. And this video was the topping on the cake. Having a step by step walk through of disassembly and reassembly made this job a breeze. I asked Terry for everything I would need. And he delivered. An absolute must if you have the clutch chudder of the vtwin I have a 2003 sv1000s with only 13k on it. But the chudder made riding a choir. I received the werks basket and installed it today. The bike runs better than new. The chudder is completely gone and the low end torque is back. An absolute breath of fresh air into my bike. Thank you sir Terry. 100% recommend Werks Baskets. Don't second guess it. Pull the trigger....
Thanks Terry as I was able to install your clutch basket correctly and the bike now feels like new again. Had to watch video a couple of times making sure all was put together correctly but with it, a success all the way.
I finally got the v strom together....I had this vicious overheat problem...im thinking that i failed to line up the impeller shaft with the key hole in the gear cause that baby broke right off...I thought it was the thermostat, then the electric temp switch. It took a few months to realize the impeller spun freely. Wait..is it supposed to do that? lol....Anyway, after Sir Terry re-did the clutch basked 6 months ago and today is the first day of riding it...and man o man, what a sweet heart is it!....It used to chug like a tank at lower RPMs. Now? nothing...Thanks to this gentleman....Kudos Terry..!!..From San Francisco....
Made this job so much easier! Thank you for your fine video!
Thank you for the detailed video, they are few and far between on the internet these days.
A friend picked up an 03 dl1000. It wasn't well maintained before he got it and has higher milage, will mention your shop to him and that he should keep you clutch basket in mind,
I want to thank you Terry for this incredibly helpful video. I'm sure it has prevented me from making a few mistakes.
Yes, the modifications made to the clutch baskets that WERKS Parts makes eliminate the chance for the inner plate to wear into the aluminum basket or to develop stress cracks. The precision bronze bearing machined into the aluminum basket is much more wear resistant than the factory cast aluminum surface. Plus the WERKS Pro builds have a second bearing added to the outer plate. ONLY available through WERKS Parts! This keeps the basket stabilized and the parts aligned better. It takes some load off the main bearing as well. There are WERKS clutch baskets with over 100,000 miles and still going strong!
where can i get it
@@peyronhernandezvalladares3712 www.werksparts.com
The 2014+ models are different than what is shown. Check a service manual if you have a 2014 or newer. Basically the last three plates get installed into the clutch pressure plate and the last plate you put into it gets rotated so it will go into the short slots in the basket. My 2014 it smoother and quieter after the install.
After watching this video I feel much more confident doing this. Thankyou.
Good to hear that! The purpose of the video is not to be a model for a technical college teaching motorcycle courses. It is to lead an owner through the details of how the parts fit together and in what order. To show what needs removed and what does not. A basic primer on the process. But the MOST important thing I address in the video is the things NOT to do!
Ive enquired through your website about an exchange basket to do the job right and have hassle free riding.
Excellent instructional video! Thank you for posting!
Wow that was great. I've been schooled and I'm ready to do it.
I finally got up the nerve to do this myself. What a difference! The bike runs smooth with no more chudder. If you're thinking of doing it, do it.
What a fantastic video. You sir are proper.
Fantastic video. I'll be contacting you soon for a SV modification.
This was a great video but my heart sank when I went to the website and saw that you've retired. Any thoughts on reliable alternative suppliers would be appreciated.
No idea why i just watched all this, i own a DL650 and they dont have the clutch basket problem, but enjoyed it, and well explained too
Even so...the 650's to on occasion require clutch plate replacement. Usually due to incorrect adjustment, but if used hard off road they can be short lived too. This isn't a 650, but they have a similar setup so many things still apply.
what a great tutorial! sir, you are a natural :) thank you very much
Thank you! When I set out to do this video I was getting e-mails or calls about every day from owners having issues with clutch basket installation. The video dropped that to maybe 5 times a month! So I know it helps and I am glad to help. I need to do one on the later 2014 and up models.
this is the single most helpful video on clutch baskets in the internet. Is there a lot of difference for the 2014+ models ? it will be great if you do :)
@@danielfalin Aside from the difference in the body work and getting to the radiator cap and reservoir tank, the only real difference is in the inner hub assembly. The 2014+ DL 1000 has a very nice "slipper or back torque limiting" hub/pressure plate assembly. These give a MUCH lighter lever pull and have some other benefits as well. So far they seem to hold up well, but these models are much more sensitive to having the hydraulic clutch components working in tip top shape. They are known to have some issues with the plates dragging even with the clutch lever pulled in.
@@werkspartsllc7856 Hoping to get some advice. On the highway wide open throttle, my clutch is slipping. Only 18k miles on bike. I have already cleaned the rod behind slave cylinder, as this was all gunked up. Are there other adjustments that I can try before calling the clutch done?
@@rocketj7449
Assuming this is an SV or DL 1000...Have you installed aftermarket levers? Those are a VERY common cause of clutch slippage problems. Cleaning the pushrod is good. Checking it for straightness is good too! Next up is the slave cylinder. These can get gunked up too. Which causes them to not fully retract....and the clutch slips. If it is corroded/gunked badly I would replace it. Some that have a good piston and bore can be rebuilt...but the cost for the kit isn't too cheap and the whole assembly isn't really high in cost.
i ordered standard werks modified clutch basket. I installed the basket and the vibrations are gone. No more chudder.
Its best to remove the water pump cover - it makes a lot easier to line up the slot in the cam chain axle thingy with the counterpart on the back of the impeller axle when mounting it. Its always a good idea to clean the O-ring groove on the pump cover...
Having removed over 100 clutch covers off these bikes I can say that removing the water pump only adds to the time and complexity of doing a clutch upgrade. It is very easy to align the shaft to the engine, just don't use force. If the water pump isn't leaking, especially on bikes under 80,000 miles, removing it isn't helping the bike.
I always do. I probably only did around 50 of them, but in my opinion it helps the reassembly so you dont have to align anything in advance - just twist the impeller and the cover pops back in.
The main issue is that i live in Denmark, and we use salt on the roads during winter time - so the O-ring groove for the pump cover usually leaks if its not cleaned before reassembly due to mild corrosion. :)
Are the metal plates all the same please in manual it says one is thicker or am I reading it wrong please
Super Super nice video!! you ARE a pro! thank you
I own a 2003 sv1000 , shifting from neutral from a stop to 1st gear is rough , clutch adjustment ? I appreciate your video .
This is likely due to the hydraulic clutch actuation system being neglected. These are self adjusting....but when not maintained they don't function properly. Flush out the system with fresh fluid and bleed it well. That usually helps and should be done annually.
I have not done engine internals before.
I assume you don't need to remove the engine but it looks like you want to drain coolant and engine oil. Anything else need to be done prior to the install? Can you tell me the model number on your EBC removal tool?
The only part that makes no sense to me is the "peening" of the piece of metal before and after you remove the clutch nut. If someone can elaborate more on that I would appreciate it.
Thanks for the awesome video.
You do have to drain the oil and coolant. But you don't remove the engine. Simply remove the "clutch cover". In fact you don't even need to remove the water pump.
"Peening" is the process of indenting a metal part to lock it in position. The clutch hub nuts are "peened" where the nut flange overhangs the grooves in the transmission input shaft. This keeps the nut from backing off. For removal you have to lift this peened down area to remove the nut. Then, once tightened, you peen down an area above the groove/slot in the transmission shaft to again lock it into place.
very informative, thank you
Very nice instructional video!
Thank you for a really clear instruction in replacing the clutch basket. I have a dl650 and when I release the clutch when in neutral, I can hear a rumbling noise, It reminds me of a thrust bearing type of rumble, I can see there are a couple of bearings the larger bearing behind the basket, and the smaller bearing right near the end of reassembly, could it be one of these bearings, or maybe something else within the clutch assembly?
The noise only started recently, I may be a little paranoid, because when I hear it, I can’t help but think it’s getting louder! Does anyone have any thoughts about what may be going on here? I can’t imagine after 20,000 miles the clutch would be worn to the point it’s causing any major issues, or could it? The year model is 2008 and I have owned it a couple of years, I have probably rode a couple of thousand miles in this time.
Thanks again for a very clearly explained and demonstrated vid 👍
Andy, I rather doubt your noises are associated with the clutch basket. Two things to remember. First is that when you pull in the clutch lever , the clutch basket does NOT stop turning! It is mechanically connected to the crankshaft gear and if the engine is turning, so is the clutch basket. Second is that there are a lot more bearings, gears, and shafts spinning in the transmission that slow or stop when you pull in the clutch lever. Even with a modified basket, it will always be a bit quieter when you pull in the clutch lever. All those rotating parts make a bit of noise and slowing or stopping some of them simply makes less noise. Transmission bearing issues are almost non existent on these bikes. I would listen to another DL 650 to see how it sounds. I suspect your noises are quite normal!
I live in northern Ireland and have an SV 1000 I really like it,,but the clutch rattle just ruins the enjoyment,,I will look you up on the internet,, to see if you sell the modded basket,,☘️☘️☘️ from Belfast
I do sell the modified baskets to Ireland! Send me an e-mail. Contact form and e-mail is listed on the website.
The reason that the factory outer clutch fibre disc goes in the short slots, is that it makes the clutch either not slip at all when it Works and the pack is above minimum thickness, or slip so much that you can hardly get the bike to move when the clutch pack is worn out.Consider it a stern warning mechanism that your clutch pack has bought the bullet and is in need of replacement NOW... :)Riding with a clutch pack that is near its end of life and therefor slipping, will contaminate the oil and easily ruin the main or big end rod bearings.
I have measured clutch packs with over 300,000 miles on them out of a DL 1000. They were still in service specs. There is a video here of that clutch basket inspection. The "short slot" position has to do with moving stress around at the outer edge of the basket.
A Suzuki tech i spoke to, gave me the above explanation, and one fibre disc doesnt move much stress around, i think?
Hell i dont know for sure, but i guess there's more than one answer depending on who you ask. :DTo this day i have never seen a worn out clutch pack on any of the 1000cc Suzuki V-Twins. :)
Only thing better than watching this video and doing it yourself would probably be Terry doing it for you.
Does the WERKS clutch have the modification to it to help stop the vibrations and the unnecessary wear?
yes
Very good video, i have a DL650 K5 with 40k miles and whines really bad under low RPM load, is that normal ?
I cannot say what the "whine" is without listening to it. But it can be any number of things. I highly doubt it is coming from the clutch basket. The DL 650 is a completely different design and shows virtually none of the issues the design of the DL 1000 can give. Under load....tends to make me think it is simply gear meshing noise.
@@werkspartsllc7856 I wasnt sure if it was a bearing related issue, ive only just got the bike so still learning about its 'quirks' :), thanks for replying
Very very good video Sir. Thanks alot, you eplain it in way it's cristal clear motion with tips about mistakes. Gute arbeite.
Hi, I saw several of your videos about the suzukis sv1000s clutch basket and I want to tell you that I have the same problem, could you solve it or if I could buy you one that you already have? I am looking for someone serious who knows how to do it and until now I have not found him. Please answer me. I am writing to you from Barcelona Spain
Most any motorcycle shop ( Independent shops as well as Suzuki and some other brands ) will be glad to do an installation of a WERKS modified clutch basket. You will simply have to contact those in your area to find one you feel comfortable with. Typically they are going to charge 2-3 hours labor to do this job.
I sell a lot of new OEM baskets with WERKS modifications to international customers. No return shipping or shipping your basket to me required. Take as much time as needed to install them. Currently a new OEM SV 1000 clutch basket with Standard Level build service costs $655 US. Add $75 shipping to Europe to that ($730 US total shipped ).
@@werkspartsllc7856 me puede proporcionar algun nombre o pagina web donde yo pueda encontrar lo que necesito?busque por España pero no hay nada.
@@werkspartsllc7856 Can you provide me with a name or web page where I can find what I need? I searched for Spain but there is nothing.
@@aurelianborici8077 Lo siento, pero no tengo contactos ni nadie que pueda recomendar para la instalación.
Terry
@@werkspartsllc7856
I need the piece rectified in its entirety for you, the assembly will be done in my workshop. I just need you to do the work of eliminating all the gaps. or exchange my piece for one that you already have rectified, paying you all the work. Can you do it? Thank you
so are the sv1000 and the dl1000 clutch baskets the same?
No, there are important differences. The SV 1000 has double springs internally, which are much stronger. The SV makes more power and needs the stronger springs to control those power pulses. The SV 1000 also has a different top plate. Which is the same shape as the 2014+ DL 1000, but carries a different part number as it is heat treated differently. The inner hub assembly is completely different from the 2002-2012 DL 1000 and 2014+ DL 1000.
How long are the pressure springs for this clutch? thanks
They are going to average in the .915" to .920" range.