Dear Patrique, I would like to thank you for your information. I just replaced the ratteling clutch of my bumble bee from 2006 (same colour as yours) with a used K1300s clutch that I bought from ebay for 750 €. I looked your video several times to gain confidence to do the job. Now my bike sounds in idle as it should be for a BMW. No need to constantly pull the clutch to prevent the rattle noise. Once again: Thank you so much.
@@achimoppermann9796 1 more thing just to be clear i got a 2006 k1200 gt 123 000 km and i found a k1300 s complte clutch(with basket) only 8000km on ebay is this a bolt on? no mods requiered ?its 800 euro also oil pump sprocket
@@danielgabriel7396 Hi, it seems to be a good deal. You will also have to remove the aluminum part in the shaft, as explained in Patrique‘s video. Good luck with assembling!
When you go to the BMW dealer, they sell you a complete "lamellar package". This includes the inner+outer aluminum hub, the steel plates and the clutch plates. A used (early version) 1200 "lamellar package" does not have that anti judder spring and the slightly smaller first plate. The newest version "lamellar packet" which is sold now as a replacement for all K12+K13 clutches has that spring in it. I don't have that spring and i have no judder, because i modified the push pin to get more oil into the clutch. A K12 lamellar packet will fit in a K13. Steel plates snd clutch plates are the same. Aftermarket solutions that everyone else is installing is made by Barnett.....
Dear Patrique, I would liek to thank you so much for your work on these videos. You've made a complex a detailed report about those incredible bikes. I did sell my R1150R and K1200S or K1300S shall come soon to me :-) So it helped me to make a decision or to be at lest ready for upcoming repairs/improvments! Best regards and be sure I stay tuned:-)
Great fkn video! I got myself a k1200r sport,2008 and it has a littlebit noisy clutch. Now i know what is going on. You had answer for many guestions! Thank you!
Hey Patrique, great video! Do you have any idea, how much oil there should come out of the gearbox shaft? I dit replace my clutch, with a brand new one, but it keeps slipping. It seems like, there is not enough oil coming to the plates. I bought the latest serial number available for my bike. The oil holes, are at the right position. So, when I remove the slave cylinder from the engine cover, remove the pice with the slot in it the bearing, and then start the bike. It seems not a lot of oil is coming out of the shaft. But I have now idea, what the amount of oil should be. Regards, Edwin
I have a k1200s 2005 with 60k miles that recently threw a rod through the crank case. There was no warning and the bike had been riding great and sounded fine and there were no warning lights including low oil ahead of time. I found a couple of complete engines available on eBay, one a 2005 which I imagine should be a direct replacement and a 2007. Are there any particular questions I should ask them about the engines? Would the 2007 be a direct drop in? Any advice on doing a swap greatly appreciated. I’m not a mechanic.
If you put your hand over the carburettor, the engine may run rough, but surely it will running rich rather than lean as you're restricting the amount of air? Love the video.
Hi Patrique! I got info from 2 people who rebuilt their basket's by not riveting but instead drilling and tapping the basket M8x1,25 and the using 12.9 bolts and loctite 243. What is your take on that procedure?
Fantastic, informative and just what I needed. Thanks mate, appreciate you sharing. Where in Aussie are you? I just got an 07 last week and it has an issue with the gearbox and a slight rattle in the clutch. I knew when I bought the bike and intend to repair it. Are you able to tell me if the gearbox is the same for the 2007 as the 2013? Regards Paul (nuffys builds) Sunshine Coast, Qld
hi i'm martino, i have a problem with my bmw k1200s year 2005. I have to change the clutch plates, but I'm not sure of the right spare part. all clutch spare parts start from 2006. can you help me ? are the k1200s clutch all the same? or I have to make changes to the discs or the clutch bell. forgive my bad english. thank you
Amazing detail in your videos, thank you so much!! I will be referring to them a lot as i attempt to replace gearbox and clutch in my k1200r. A question for you - does the k1300R gearbox and clutch swap out with k1200r? Is there modifications that need to bee made? My bike is a 2008 k1200r, i have the opportunity to purchase clutch and gearbox from a 2014 k1300R.. The gearbox needs replacing, is it worth replacing the clutch too? Thanks again legend
I had a k100rs fail bc the rivets that hold the clutch assembly together got loose. It was not worth the value of the bike to repair. Needless to say I was aggressive when releasing the clutch.
I have a 2006 k12r and am not sure how to remove the original aluminium oiler within the oil pump shaft. I noticed you holding an old one but with a good size hole drilled through the middle. I'm thinking to drill a hole and use a gear puller to remove it. Any advice? Thanks.
Excellent videos man. I am looking at buying a well maintained K1200R SPORT(!), jan-2008 model.. Do you know if it should have the latest upgrades, in the clutch design and oil shaft by then already?
Hello Patrique Thanks for such an informative discourse. I'm wondering if a Booster Plug or Accelerator might help with the rough low rpms? Would this help the life expectancy of the clutch basket springs? From what I've read the enrichment provided is most effectively noticed at the low rpms.
Because you have clutch basket from k1200 and k1300 I have one very important question. Can you tell me if clutch plates (cork and steel) are the same in k1200 and k1300 ? Or there are differences ? If they are different can you tell me how? Do you know is there any aftermarket replacement for clutch plates in k1300 ? because for k1200 I could get cluch plates pack without any problem, but for k1300 I can't find one.
Who knows where I can send my clutch basket to get proper maybe stronger springs and the correct rivers reinstalled? 404 is not answering PMs. There had to be a shop in the US that can do this work correctly?
Great video and explanation but the sound quality is so poor that I really can't understand what you're saying. Does anyone make an aftermarket complete assembly that can just be a total replacement?
There must be something wrong with your phone or computer..... the sound quality is perfect. There is no "complete" aftermarket kit. The only thing you can buy is the plates, but not a complete aftermarket kit.
This is great Patrique ! I have exactly this problem with my k1200r. It only has 27,500 km on. The shop tells me its "normal" or "characteristic" of the bike ... (...?...) I'm trying to sell the bike but with the rattle in the clutch it may be just plain embarrassing. Guess I'll have to do the clutch job if I'll ever be able to sell it. I only get the noise at the idle after the high idle falls down to around 1100 rpms
Great informative video. Thanks. If the Chinese made these engineering blunders we would be saying,.....well what do you expect. It's one thing to get it wrong but I judge BMW by their ignoring of a serious design issue that falls onto the owners to fix. (not a cheap fix) This fault will eventually see the bike off the road on every single K1200. The bikes are brimming with amazing tech like their suspension but in many ways BMW is a lottery! A few winners and lots of losers.
Is it necessary to remove the air from the engine after the oil change, because vaccum in oil pump ?? Sorry about the language Motul 10W40 5100 is ok oil for BMW K12S?? what do you think How many kilometers starting problems in the clutch?? Sorry about the language. Thanks
10W40 is for cold weather. I use 5W40 Castrol Power 1 Racing 4T. (recommended by BMW) Clutch basket problem (rattle) can start any kilometers (Silver color basket). Clutch packet "Lamellar Packet" problem with hole not drilled correct is 05-06 maybe 07 . Just check for correct hole. Oil/Filter change no need for vaccum. Only when removing Oil Pump.
hellloPratique. What good video. You say that the rivets are straight on K1200. K1300 ar e not. Which rivets have i to buy for a my K1300... 2009. Please could you give me a reference. Thanks.
ok no problem. last week i bought this model. www.vis-express.fr/fr/rivet-plein-tete-ronde-tr-acier-nfe-27153r/3655-rivet-tete-ronde-tr-7x50-acier-3202705001.html Is it ok?
Out of warranty because of part wear is one thing. These are design flaws and plenty of them, which I find is a joke BMW is putting on the backs of their customers. I recently purchased an 07' K1200GT. Why is it they are fine with having their customers be their guinea pigs in their testing in design changes. I've had two Japanese bikes before and both of them never, I mean, never had any issues remotely this ridiculous. I would put fluids in and the occasional clutch ring change along with other standard maintenance but nothing like the bullshit BMW is passing along. I think as soon as this bike is paid off (Which will be sooner than planned), I will be moving back to a Japanese bike. I mean really almost $2,000.00 for a clutch pack that BMW fucked up to begin with, not doing it !
I have a K1300R 2009 and I have the clutch rattle and the clunk when I put it in first gear.... Im in Canada and I though they fixed the problem by then.... is it also an issue on the 2009? And also is it okay to ride with this problem? I only have 23000km.....
expressobike The clunk is always there..... every K12 and K13 has it. It will progressively get louder the more the springs get compressed. A constant rattle in "neutral" is the sign that the basket is shot (the dampening springs in the back)
I called the dealer and was told that BMW Motorrad changed the parts for 2010-2011. cost for the repair is around 3000$ Canadian dollars.... Thank you for your quick response. Your the only one who explains very well the problem
And the infuriating thing, this was never a recall! BMW knew this is a bad design, they knew it causes failure almost invariably, and they just left for the owners to deal with.
HOLY SMOKES! This is an amazing series of videos. Patrique, You are amazing. Well done my friend! I am subscribing to all your K1200 vids. Keep up the good work!One of the best clutch people that can make our clutchs work is fourhundred4. He is the clutch master for our bikes. He has the rebuild proces and all the parts that work down to a science. He will get my clutch when it craps out.THANK YOU Again.BC
Yes, fourhundred4 from I-BMW.com would be the guy to talk to in regards to clutch baskets. He can be difficult to get a hold sometimes, but from what I've heard he does a fantastic job.
I would tell the Dealer to get f_cked if i would get an answer like this. BMW did a poor job testing the K1200 clutch, and now all 05-06-possibly07 owners are paying for their mistake. May i ask why you are wanting to sell it? Because of the rattle?
Nice explanation and everything man but the thing with the CLUNK noise..if you mean(going to a stop and then when stopped you put in 1st gear)then that clunk is normal and even with what you said in part 2 you cannot get rid of it. Reason: the gear is spinning with the clutch plate and just pulling it in doesnt stop the inertia from happening. here is a link to a video..tho its in german but you can still see whats going on ua-cam.com/video/RZl4Kag59C0/v-deo.html
Yes, correct. The clunk is always there. When you start the bike, being in neutral, the clutch assembly and input gears/shaft of the gearbox is spinning. The other half of the gearbox is stationary, held in place by the the Wheel/Final Drive/shaft drive. After starting the engine in neutral, and you then pull the clutch to engage first gear, the steel plates and the friction plates are "sticking together" because of the oil film causing the gearbox input shaft to spin. When you hit it into first gear, the gearbox input shaft comes to a complete stop. The clutch basket keeps spinning the friction plates and the steel discs come to a complete stop, as they are connected/driven by the transmission input shaft. That is where the "clonk" comes from. The only time when there is no clonk (a tiny clonk), is if you put it in neutral from 1st or 2nd and don't let go of the clutch lever coming to a stop at a traffic light. Because then the plates are already separated, by having it in gear before going back to neutral. You could avoid the "clonk" at first startup, by putting it in gear and pulling the clutch when starting......but that's not really friendly with your starter motor. Installing a 1300 driveshaft makes the "clonk" less aggressive, but it will never go away completely.
Patrique Hofmann pretty much thats it while the k1300 gearbox is less clunky it will always have a more "manly" clunk then other bikes.in short..blame the german design haha.still your info is top notch and i can recommend anyone who has a k bike to look it up.as for me im going to get the last year k1300r bike in about 2 months.A real bummer that this amazing machine is not in production anymore and you cant really get anything like it. Cheers and safe riding man.
Hey man, thx so much for this video. It looks like the k12 is a piece of shit. I own a k1200r and i wanted to ask you, what if i leave the clutch the way it is? Will it give me major problems later, or what would happen? Thx and cheers
The clutch rattle will become worse and worse over time, and it affects what the crankshaft+camshaft sensor is reading/telling the BMSK. Consequently the BMSK tries to compensate and the idle starts to turn to shit...... The basket springs being fucked means that the clunk is harder on the gearbox and the fairly unflexible driveshaft. How many miles do you have?
26000 miles and i already got the discs changed once... i replaced the original ones for Barnet ones since I'd heard they are more sturdy... I don't hear any rattle when idling; however, from time to time (seldom, I'd have to say), what happens is that when I'm on first gear and releasing the clutch, it makes a horrible noise as if the clutch were grinding
When you put the barnett clutch kit in, did you check for wear on the aluminium faces of the hub (where the first/last plates sits)? Not that your first/last plate has worn down after install because of the uneven surface/lip.
sorry... the thing is that i didn't do it myself; i got it done by a BMW dealer... what's most frustrating is that they don't seem to really know what's going on... i mean, they don't seem to be aware that this is a common issue on k12's, thus they don't know what to do for sure
I got shafted once by the dealer..... not knowing much about the bike when i bought it. Paid nearly AUD $800 for a full service and later found out they never flushed the brake system. I would find someone who has the clutch holding tool and the crankshaft lock and investigate. Its not an easy job the first time, but its manageable since you dont have to remove the basket (no clutch rattle) And you are right, the mechanics at the dealership don't know anything. Because they get paid to change/sell parts and "diagnose" via computer instead of investigating the root problems. They usually don't have long background experience in mechanical engineering and get qualified by "PowerPoint Presentations" supplied by the mothership. After 3 years of owning my machine, and learning how the electronics/mechanics work (and recently installing the I-ABS2 system) I can say that I know more about these machines then the idiots at the stealership will ever know.
Dear Patrique, I would like to thank you for your information. I just replaced the ratteling clutch of my bumble bee from 2006 (same colour as yours) with a used K1300s clutch that I bought from ebay for 750 €. I looked your video several times to gain confidence to do the job. Now my bike sounds in idle as it should be for a BMW. No need to constantly pull the clutch to prevent the rattle noise. Once again: Thank you so much.
hi just the clutch? or the basket aswell?
@@danielgabriel7396 Hi Daniel, I changed the complete clutch, including the basket and the sprocket to the oil pump chain.
@@achimoppermann9796 Thank you im gonna look for a complete clutch from a k1300
@@achimoppermann9796 1 more thing just to be clear i got a 2006 k1200 gt 123 000 km and i found a k1300 s complte clutch(with basket) only 8000km on ebay is this a bolt on? no mods requiered ?its 800 euro also oil pump sprocket
@@danielgabriel7396 Hi, it seems to be a good deal. You will also have to remove the aluminum part in the shaft, as explained in Patrique‘s video. Good luck with assembling!
When you go to the BMW dealer, they sell you a complete "lamellar package". This includes the inner+outer aluminum hub, the steel plates and the clutch plates.
A used (early version) 1200 "lamellar package" does not have that anti judder spring and the slightly smaller first plate.
The newest version "lamellar packet" which is sold now as a replacement for all K12+K13 clutches has that spring in it.
I don't have that spring and i have no judder, because i modified the push pin to get more oil into the clutch.
A K12 lamellar packet will fit in a K13. Steel plates snd clutch plates are the same.
Aftermarket solutions that everyone else is installing is made by Barnett.....
Dear Patrique,
I would liek to thank you so much for your work on these videos. You've made a complex a detailed report about those incredible bikes. I did sell my R1150R and K1200S or K1300S shall come soon to me :-) So it helped me to make a decision or to be at lest ready for upcoming repairs/improvments! Best regards and be sure I stay tuned:-)
Great fkn video! I got myself a k1200r sport,2008 and it has a littlebit noisy clutch. Now i know what is going on. You had answer for many guestions! Thank you!
Hey Patrique, great video!
Do you have any idea, how much oil there should come out of the gearbox shaft?
I dit replace my clutch, with a brand new one, but it keeps slipping.
It seems like, there is not enough oil coming to the plates.
I bought the latest serial number available for my bike.
The oil holes, are at the right position.
So, when I remove the slave cylinder from the engine cover, remove the pice with the slot in it the bearing, and then start the bike.
It seems not a lot of oil is coming out of the shaft.
But I have now idea, what the amount of oil should be.
Regards,
Edwin
I have a k1200s 2005 with 60k miles that recently threw a rod through the crank case. There was no warning and the bike had been riding great and sounded fine and there were no warning lights including low oil ahead of time. I found a couple of complete engines available on eBay, one a 2005 which I imagine should be a direct replacement and a 2007. Are there any particular questions I should ask them about the engines? Would the 2007 be a direct drop in? Any advice on doing a swap greatly appreciated. I’m not a mechanic.
If you put your hand over the carburettor, the engine may run rough, but surely it will running rich rather than lean as you're restricting the amount of air? Love the video.
Hi Patrique! I got info from 2 people who rebuilt their basket's by not riveting but instead drilling and tapping the basket M8x1,25 and the using 12.9 bolts and loctite 243. What is your take on that procedure?
Tenho uma dúvida, o basket e discos da k1200 e k 1300 são iguais? Mesmas medidas diâmetros ?
Fantastic, informative and just what I needed. Thanks mate, appreciate you sharing. Where in Aussie are you? I just got an 07 last week and it has an issue with the gearbox and a slight rattle in the clutch. I knew when I bought the bike and intend to repair it. Are you able to tell me if the gearbox is the same for the 2007 as the 2013?
Regards
Paul (nuffys builds)
Sunshine Coast, Qld
hi i'm martino, i have a problem with my bmw k1200s year 2005.
I have to change the clutch plates, but I'm not sure of the right spare part.
all clutch spare parts start from 2006.
can you help me ?
are the k1200s clutch all the same?
or I have to make changes to the discs or the clutch bell.
forgive my bad english.
thank you
Hi, Is it normal to have 2nd gear problem with k1200r 80k miles? Any issue with riding it with 2nd gear problem?
Amazing detail in your videos, thank you so much!! I will be referring to them a lot as i attempt to replace gearbox and clutch in my k1200r.
A question for you - does the k1300R gearbox and clutch swap out with k1200r? Is there modifications that need to bee made? My bike is a 2008 k1200r, i have the opportunity to purchase clutch and gearbox from a 2014 k1300R.. The gearbox needs replacing, is it worth replacing the clutch too?
Thanks again legend
I had a k100rs fail bc the rivets that hold the clutch assembly together got loose. It was not worth the value of the bike to repair. Needless to say I was aggressive when releasing the clutch.
I have a 2006 k12r and am not sure how to remove the original aluminium oiler within the oil pump shaft. I noticed you holding an old one but with a good size hole drilled through the middle. I'm thinking to drill a hole and use a gear puller to remove it. Any advice? Thanks.
Excellent videos man. I am looking at buying a well maintained K1200R SPORT(!), jan-2008 model.. Do you know if it should have the latest upgrades, in the clutch design and oil shaft by then already?
Hello Patrique
Thanks for such an informative discourse. I'm wondering if a Booster Plug or Accelerator might help with the rough low rpms? Would this help the life expectancy of the clutch basket springs? From what I've read the enrichment provided is most effectively noticed at the low rpms.
the best explaination ever listen, please continue!!
Because you have clutch basket from k1200 and k1300 I have one very
important question. Can you tell me if clutch plates (cork and steel)
are the same in k1200 and k1300 ? Or there are differences ? If they are
different can you tell me how? Do you know is there any aftermarket
replacement for clutch plates in k1300 ? because for k1200 I could get
cluch plates pack without any problem, but for k1300 I can't find one.
Who knows where I can send my clutch basket to get proper maybe stronger springs and the correct rivers reinstalled? 404 is not answering PMs. There had to be a shop in the US that can do this work correctly?
Great video and explanation but the sound quality is so poor that I really can't understand what you're saying. Does anyone make an aftermarket complete assembly that can just be a total replacement?
There must be something wrong with your phone or computer..... the sound quality is perfect.
There is no "complete" aftermarket kit. The only thing you can buy is the plates, but not a complete aftermarket kit.
Great vid. ThX for the time you put in to this.
This is great Patrique ! I have exactly this problem with my k1200r. It only has 27,500 km on. The shop tells me its "normal" or "characteristic" of the bike ... (...?...) I'm trying to sell the bike but with the rattle in the clutch it may be just plain embarrassing. Guess I'll have to do the clutch job if I'll ever be able to sell it. I only get the noise at the idle after the high idle falls down to around 1100 rpms
Great video thank you so much for this explanation.
Great informative video. Thanks. If the Chinese made these engineering blunders we would be saying,.....well what do you expect. It's one thing to get it wrong but I judge BMW by their ignoring of a serious design issue that falls onto the owners to fix. (not a cheap fix) This fault will eventually see the bike off the road on every single K1200. The bikes are brimming with amazing tech like their suspension but in many ways BMW is a lottery! A few winners and lots of losers.
if i was considering the k1300R would all this be avoided?
I have a K1200gt with 60,000 miles on it. Would this rattle cause the engine to stall ?
So is that a recall fix or whoever owns one has to deal with it themselves?
Is it necessary to remove the air from the engine after the oil change, because vaccum in oil pump ?? Sorry about the language
Motul 10W40 5100 is ok oil for BMW K12S?? what do you think
How many kilometers starting problems in the clutch??
Sorry about the language. Thanks
10W40 is for cold weather. I use 5W40 Castrol Power 1 Racing 4T. (recommended by BMW)
Clutch basket problem (rattle) can start any kilometers (Silver color basket).
Clutch packet "Lamellar Packet" problem with hole not drilled correct is 05-06 maybe 07 . Just check for correct hole.
Oil/Filter change no need for vaccum. Only when removing Oil Pump.
Patrique Hofmann HI Patridge. I want to ask.Do you repair clutch baskets?
Sorry, I don't. Too risky.
Maby you know some one,WHO CAN HELP ME?
www.I-BMW.com Member Name: fourhundred4
He rebuilds clutch baskets
hellloPratique. What good video. You say that the rivets are straight on K1200. K1300 ar e not. Which rivets have i to buy for a my K1300... 2009. Please could you give me a reference. Thanks.
moT42 No, they are always conical in shape.
ok i m french, i have not really understand ...what are the dimensions thanks
moT42 That i dont remember.... you would need to remove one from the basket and measure. Sorry
ok no problem. last week i bought this model.
www.vis-express.fr/fr/rivet-plein-tete-ronde-tr-acier-nfe-27153r/3655-rivet-tete-ronde-tr-7x50-acier-3202705001.html
Is it ok?
moT42 This is what you will need..... catalog.nordex.com/cc1750
Sr tem as medidas do pino?
Out of warranty because of part wear is one thing. These are design flaws and plenty of them, which I find is a joke BMW is putting on the backs of their customers. I recently purchased an 07' K1200GT. Why is it they are fine with having their customers be their guinea pigs in their testing in design changes. I've had two Japanese bikes before and both of them never, I mean, never had any issues remotely this ridiculous. I would put fluids in and the occasional clutch ring change along with other standard maintenance but nothing like the bullshit BMW is passing along. I think as soon as this bike is paid off (Which will be sooner than planned), I will be moving back to a Japanese bike. I mean really almost $2,000.00 for a clutch pack that BMW fucked up to begin with, not doing it !
I have a K1300R 2009 and I have the clutch rattle and the clunk when I put it in first gear.... Im in Canada and I though they fixed the problem by then.... is it also an issue on the 2009? And also is it okay to ride with this problem? I only have 23000km.....
expressobike The clunk is always there..... every K12 and K13 has it. It will progressively get louder the more the springs get compressed. A constant rattle in "neutral" is the sign that the basket is shot (the dampening springs in the back)
I called the dealer and was told that BMW Motorrad changed the parts for 2010-2011. cost for the repair is around 3000$ Canadian dollars.... Thank you for your quick response. Your the only one who explains very well the problem
Awesome Job!
Great ! thank you.
Pretty fuckin' helpful. Thanks.
And the infuriating thing, this was never a recall! BMW knew this is a bad design, they knew it causes failure almost invariably, and they just left for the owners to deal with.
Thank you!
HOLY SMOKES! This is an amazing series of videos. Patrique, You are amazing. Well done my friend! I am subscribing to all your K1200 vids. Keep up the good work!One of the best clutch people that can make our clutchs work is fourhundred4. He is the clutch master for our bikes. He has the rebuild proces and all the parts that work down to a science. He will get my clutch when it craps out.THANK YOU Again.BC
Yes, fourhundred4 from I-BMW.com would be the guy to talk to in regards to clutch baskets. He can be difficult to get a hold sometimes, but from what I've heard he does a fantastic job.
My volume was turned up to 100%, and I still could barely hear you.
I would tell the Dealer to get f_cked if i would get an answer like this. BMW did a poor job testing the K1200 clutch, and now all 05-06-possibly07 owners are paying for their mistake. May i ask why you are wanting to sell it? Because of the rattle?
Nice explanation and everything man but the thing with the CLUNK noise..if you mean(going to a stop and then when stopped you put in 1st gear)then that clunk is normal and even with what you said in part 2 you cannot get rid of it.
Reason: the gear is spinning with the clutch plate and just pulling it in doesnt stop the inertia from happening. here is a link to a video..tho its in german but you can still see whats going on ua-cam.com/video/RZl4Kag59C0/v-deo.html
Yes, correct.
The clunk is always there.
When you start the bike, being in neutral, the clutch assembly and input gears/shaft of the gearbox is spinning.
The other half of the gearbox is stationary, held in place by the the Wheel/Final Drive/shaft drive.
After starting the engine in neutral, and you then pull the clutch to engage first gear, the steel plates and the friction plates are "sticking together" because of the oil film causing the gearbox input shaft to spin.
When you hit it into first gear, the gearbox input shaft comes to a complete stop.
The clutch basket keeps spinning the friction plates and the steel discs come to a complete stop, as they are connected/driven by the transmission input shaft.
That is where the "clonk" comes from.
The only time when there is no clonk (a tiny clonk), is if you put it in neutral from 1st or 2nd and don't let go of the clutch lever coming to a stop at a traffic light.
Because then the plates are already separated, by having it in gear before going back to neutral.
You could avoid the "clonk" at first startup, by putting it in gear and pulling the clutch when starting......but that's not really friendly with your starter motor.
Installing a 1300 driveshaft makes the "clonk" less aggressive, but it will never go away completely.
Patrique Hofmann pretty much thats it while the k1300 gearbox is less clunky it will always have a more "manly" clunk then other bikes.in short..blame the german design haha.still your info is top notch and i can recommend anyone who has a k bike to look it up.as for me im going to get the last year k1300r bike in about 2 months.A real bummer that this amazing machine is not in production anymore and you cant really get anything like it.
Cheers and safe riding man.
I would love to watch it but it just sounds like you are mumbling, sorry
Hey man, thx so much for this video. It looks like the k12 is a piece of shit. I own a k1200r and i wanted to ask you, what if i leave the clutch the way it is? Will it give me major problems later, or what would happen? Thx and cheers
The clutch rattle will become worse and worse over time, and it affects what the crankshaft+camshaft sensor is reading/telling the BMSK. Consequently the BMSK tries to compensate and the idle starts to turn to shit......
The basket springs being fucked means that the clunk is harder on the gearbox and the fairly unflexible driveshaft.
How many miles do you have?
26000 miles and i already got the discs changed once... i replaced the original ones for Barnet ones since I'd heard they are more sturdy... I don't hear any rattle when idling; however, from time to time (seldom, I'd have to say), what happens is that when I'm on first gear and releasing the clutch, it makes a horrible noise as if the clutch were grinding
When you put the barnett clutch kit in, did you check for wear on the aluminium faces of the hub (where the first/last plates sits)?
Not that your first/last plate has worn down after install because of the uneven surface/lip.
sorry... the thing is that i didn't do it myself; i got it done by a BMW dealer... what's most frustrating is that they don't seem to really know what's going on... i mean, they don't seem to be aware that this is a common issue on k12's, thus they don't know what to do for sure
I got shafted once by the dealer..... not knowing much about the bike when i bought it.
Paid nearly AUD $800 for a full service and later found out they never flushed the brake system.
I would find someone who has the clutch holding tool and the crankshaft lock and investigate.
Its not an easy job the first time, but its manageable since you dont have to remove the basket (no clutch rattle)
And you are right, the mechanics at the dealership don't know anything. Because they get paid to change/sell parts and "diagnose" via computer instead of investigating the root problems. They usually don't have long background experience in mechanical engineering and get qualified by "PowerPoint Presentations" supplied by the mothership.
After 3 years of owning my machine, and learning how the electronics/mechanics work (and recently installing the I-ABS2 system) I can say that I know more about these machines then the idiots at the stealership will ever know.