Was a cool video, need to look into the band aid mod. Does that work for any key with stabilizers, the enter key for example? I am confused how you lubed your switches.. they aren't hot swappable so did you just lube inside through the top? You mentioned the bottom of the switch, did you desolder them? My keyboard is not hot swappable and I don't want to desolder to lube 'em.
@@ireakhavok Thank you for the information and response. Seems like top lubing did make a difference, or at least with the other mods. You put the band aid under the stabilizer with some of it on the frame of the keyboard? I assume for the part of the cap that hits the frame.. ah wait for tightening it, that keyboard in the linked video, looks like a few keys hit the frame and then other strips go on the pcb, do they go in certain places? Someone mentioned putting it under the stabilizer in the hole for the stabs(I think you did this in this current video, in the linked one I didn't notice it), it was a text representation and not a video to show it, I might have misunderstood. I am interested in the other hot swap boards. Been thinking of getting one, then I started to mess with my keyboard and am looking at doing mods for it. My keyboard is a cherry mx red switch. I have the Corsair k68 RGB.
Thank you, that was very helpful. I understand it now. One under the stab on the PCB hole for it and if the stab cage is loose then you would put it on the plate and against the stab cage. I was thinking the plate was the case of the keyboard lol. It's the plate on the PCB though. So 2 or 4 places for the band aids.
Hey nice video, Im getting the k65 for christmas and was wondering if all of these mods were possible, btw habe you found any keycaps that work on this keyboard? It has a non standard bottom row and i habent found any keycaps made for this keyboard
Nice video ! I have a question, did you use bandaid on other stabilizers or did you just use lube, like shift and back button? Did you use lube on space bar stabilizers or just bandaid ? Thanks !
I don't know where my comment went, but I band-aid modded between the plate for just the ones that rattled, I think the backspace and the space bar. but then I lubed them all.
Nice video. I'm getting a K63 for Christmas and I was wondering if you could explain the benefits of this mod in a way that a five year old could understand?
hello, if i like the red switches and want to change the switch what brand you may suggest? can i slap gateron red or yellow or brown on my k63? my keeb is now having double input (even if i only press it once) probleem and i dont wanna use cherry mx for no apparent reason.
You'd have to de-solder all the switches. I would probably try to clean the contacts of the keys having double press issues with rubbing alcohol, by squirting some in and pressing the key like 20 times upside down. sometimes it isn't the switch, though, it's the keyboard, so I would get it functional first, before trying to swap out all of the switches. if the alcohol doesn't work, swap out the one switch first, and try that out for a few days before doing the rest of the board.
@@ireakhavok thank you for reply m8! Yes, i do aware of this clean first. Actually, the biggest reason i want to change swicth simply because i want a refresh feeling (?) because i have this keeb for over 2 years. Btw what kind of alcohol i may use? 70% alcohol? Or is it ok if i use vodka? Btw do you have any thought on tecware phantom elite?
@@bobcut2022 First time I have seen them. I am not impressed by their other boards - I don't like outemu, soldered, and non-detachable keyboards. I do, however like the style and the simplicity of the boards. With some very small changes it could be a very good company and keyboard. I do like what they are doing with the phantom elite, but there are two main things that I do not like about the elite is the non-detachable cable, and the ABS keycaps. I would pay 30-40$ more for the phantom elite keyboard if it had PBT keycaps and a detachable cable. Their pricing doesn't seem to be bad, so if I were to buy this, as it is, with gateron switches, and without the features I am suggesting, it would have to be 70$ or below for me to want one. I would opt for getting other boards if it was above 75 USD. Other than that, I do feel that for a budget board, this would be a good buy, when it is available. Doesn't seem to be available yet, in the states. always use ISOPROPYL alcohol. Never use any other kind of alcohol. Ethanol spirits like vodka will leave residue and cause the terminals to short and become sticky from the sugars.
@@bobcut2022 Send me one to mod, lol. I can't that keyboard in the states, yet. and yes, I would guess that my price estimate is close to what I suggested because of shipping.
@@marnarnoxmarnarnox1238 I do not have the .bin file. I would suggest reaching out to Corsair directly, they are generally pretty good at this kind of thing. I will be able to help you in a few days after I take my MCAT test. Right now, I am studying, and will be able to help you figure it out after the 10th.
@@foggyd8821 Just make sure that it isn't plugged in, cut out some extra foam on the keyboard where the usb cable attaches to the keyboard and be careful if you unplug the USB header from the PCB. You may have to check for extra screws around where the USB cable goes into the body. If you need more help, join the discord and message me. link is on my channel page!
@@ireakhavok Thanks a lot. Might just do the lubing and the bandaid mod for more and when I feel like i'm ready that's when I'll get started with the case foam and stuff.
Sorry for having a lot of comments but, with the rubber kind of feet at the bottom of the keyboard would I use superglue to reapply it or maybe hotglue?
Totally fine to comment as much as you want! Don't use hotglue. I was able to just put them back on and they stayed there stuck just fine, even years later. But if you did end up getting them dirty or something, honestly I would just use a tiny bit of what's called rubber cement. Super glue won't allow for the rubber to flex as you move it around and cause it to eventually fall off.
@@foggyd8821 it is just much easier to slide and scratch desk surfaces. if you have a deskmat, it's not that much of an issue, if you don't then I would suggest leaving them on, but if you're missing one or something you can leave them all off.
Just double check that you removed the screws. Underneath the little rubber bands there's going to be more screws. Once you do get the guitar pick in there and all the screws are out. The plastic uses what's called a tongue and groove which means that at random locations There will be a groove that some plastic is sitting in so you'll have to hold the old part of it open as you slide it through so you might need more guitar picks
I am not having any issues with mine! Sorry! I would say, just make sure that it is charged and use a very good cable in a USB 3.0 port, if you can. Don't use the 2.1 or whatever. Those are my only suggestions for firmware updates. You may also want to reach out to corsair, they do have better than average customer service.
@@ireakhavokHello sir! how did you update the firmware? Through iCue? Mine is not continuing. :( I'm also using the cable they provided. As i observed lately, it's just the firmware, everytime it gets disconnected, I just turn it off and then turn it on again.
@@janlerpadonan5298 make sure that you are doing everything on this page: help.corsair.com/hc/en-us/articles/360025278572-Update-device-firmware-with-iCUE the updater can be finicky, and with how often they push updates, I don't mess with them anymore. I have updated mine a couple times, but have stopped doing it.
It should be mostly the same. Only difference would be to be careful when you actually separate the keyboard. There will be an extra part to disconnect from the PCB. Essentially a USB header wire connector. Maybe more screws around the wire? But I doubt it. Just be careful, and you should be fine. Lmk what you find out.
YT deleted my original comment: No, there isn't an easy way to remove lube! I haven't heard of anybody actually wanting to remove it! you can, say swab it up, but there will always be some residue.
I don't think it was because of my guide. Many 100's of people that have used my guide haven't had an issue. Sorry that you broke your keyboard. I never mess with the plate at all, do you mean the plastic cover? You should never use "unreasonable force" when it comes to anything electronic. My plastic cover has some very small scratches on it from where I stuck the plastic pick in the side and the rubber feet are easier to pull off. Next time you work on something, and are having trouble, reach out and ask!
I tried out the foam mod with my K63 compact but upon putting it back together it shows up as CRD_DISABLD in My Computer. I have no idea why disassembling it can cause a brick.
It's not bricked. You didn't cut out the foam from the top left, like I suggested in the video. There is a way to fix it, I'm not entirely sure of the method. But when I get home from vacation I'll look it up. It may be as easy as just removing the foam from that spot.
@@eliasainsworth2587 well mine still retained the sticky glue stuff on the pads, they just stuck right back on. if yours didn't then you can use rubber cement to glue it back down, if you like, just don't use very much.
YT deleted my original comment: Yes it should. I would just be careful to check and make sure it won't mess up or cloud your switches. Start with a small droplet on the housing and leave it for half an hour, if it clouds it up or warps it in that time, then don't use it.
@@ireakhavok TY. How do I get the lube in stem. Put a healthy amount on top side? A light weight that w flow into spring or heavy? Have superlube 50014 like maple syrup. (no desoldering)
If you do not want to desolder, than I would definitely do foam, and top lube like I do in the video, being sure to not put too much lube. Wiping off the brush before each application should be good.
@@ireakhavok there's still a soft ringing noise, but improved since it doesn't echo. W replace w better foam and may move up to krytox. Wish I could put foam thin layer on top too.
@@Frank020 Sounds like a good plan of action! If you ever get a new board, try to get a hot-swap board so that you can do more with it without soldering! foam in between the PCB and the plate would be another great way to help stop ringing.
The foam I usually get from other packages that were shipped to me. It's another way to recycle. If you need to get some, then I would suggest getting some packing foam from uhaul. there is a link somewhere in the comments for some thin packing foam.
haveing any extra grease built up at all is going to collect debris over time and gum up your switches. The layer of grease should be very thin and idealy applied to the switches directly disassembled. Otherwise good video!
*puts mod voice on* your just looking to get banned from my channel! *Holds banhammer menacingly* Na dude for real tho I don't have time for stuff like that, I work hard for what I have. Get off your computer and go accomplish something, you pleb!
@@ireakhavok they're kinda right though. you actually miss out on the most important part. not breaking off trhese little tabs. or, better: in which direction to move/wiggle the top to open it.
you don't wiggle it off, you stick a little flat pick in there and slide it around the edge. there are lock tabs. Just make sure you get every screw first. Any questions? It can be annoying to open if you've never opened anything before. LMK@@Todbrecher
@@ireakhavok I figured the exact same thing, but still ended up breaking about 5 of 17? hooks. Will be fine, cause I opened it for an experiment in the first place. But in the end it would have been nice to see a video tuitorial on how to do it beforehand, to maybe tweak the process a little. As for opening experience: All the poorly designed laptops I opened so far are nothing compared against this keyboard...
well, you're not wrong. this can be a little harder than a laptop. I don't have a clue how you could have broken so many, though. That being said, I'll take your criticism to heart and if I have a harder keyboard to open I'll show it a little better. @@Todbrecher
Thankyou so much. I have the k63 too and have been looking for a video on the best ways to mod it. Keep up the amazing videos.
YT deleted my original comment: thank you for the comment! Please sub and check out the new videos! I appreciate it!
Thank you bud! Keep up the great work fam
YT deleted my original comment: Thank you so much!
Thanks for the video, I just did this with my keyboard :)
Glad it helped!
Was a cool video, need to look into the band aid mod. Does that work for any key with stabilizers, the enter key for example? I am confused how you lubed your switches.. they aren't hot swappable so did you just lube inside through the top? You mentioned the bottom of the switch, did you desolder them? My keyboard is not hot swappable and I don't want to desolder to lube 'em.
@@ireakhavok Thank you for the information and response. Seems like top lubing did make a difference, or at least with the other mods. You put the band aid under the stabilizer with some of it on the frame of the keyboard? I assume for the part of the cap that hits the frame.. ah wait for tightening it, that keyboard in the linked video, looks like a few keys hit the frame and then other strips go on the pcb, do they go in certain places? Someone mentioned putting it under the stabilizer in the hole for the stabs(I think you did this in this current video, in the linked one I didn't notice it), it was a text representation and not a video to show it, I might have misunderstood. I am interested in the other hot swap boards. Been thinking of getting one, then I started to mess with my keyboard and am looking at doing mods for it. My keyboard is a cherry mx red switch. I have the Corsair k68 RGB.
Thank you, that was very helpful. I understand it now. One under the stab on the PCB hole for it and if the stab cage is loose then you would put it on the plate and against the stab cage. I was thinking the plate was the case of the keyboard lol. It's the plate on the PCB though. So 2 or 4 places for the band aids.
Hey nice video, Im getting the k65 for christmas and was wondering if all of these mods were possible, btw habe you found any keycaps that work on this keyboard? It has a non standard bottom row and i habent found any keycaps made for this keyboard
YT deleted my original comment: you have to spend much more on a custom set, from a place like drop.com or a group buy from geekhack.
Nice video ! I have a question, did you use bandaid on other stabilizers or did you just use lube, like shift and back button? Did you use lube on space bar stabilizers or just bandaid ? Thanks !
@@ireakhavok ok ! Thank you man for all this advices, just bought the k63 and gonna do all you do in this video. Thanks again !
I don't know where my comment went, but I band-aid modded between the plate for just the ones that rattled, I think the backspace and the space bar. but then I lubed them all.
Thanks for this video! Definitely looking forward to doing these mods to mine
Glad that I could help! This is definitely a great board to modify!
Nice video. I'm getting a K63 for Christmas and I was wondering if you could explain the benefits of this mod in a way that a five year old could understand?
@@ireakhavok thank you for the explanation! curse you for making me want to do this!
Did you ever mode a keyboard for yourself?
hello, if i like the red switches and want to change the switch what brand you may suggest? can i slap gateron red or yellow or brown on my k63? my keeb is now having double input (even if i only press it once) probleem and i dont wanna use cherry mx for no apparent reason.
You'd have to de-solder all the switches. I would probably try to clean the contacts of the keys having double press issues with rubbing alcohol, by squirting some in and pressing the key like 20 times upside down. sometimes it isn't the switch, though, it's the keyboard, so I would get it functional first, before trying to swap out all of the switches. if the alcohol doesn't work, swap out the one switch first, and try that out for a few days before doing the rest of the board.
@@ireakhavok thank you for reply m8! Yes, i do aware of this clean first. Actually, the biggest reason i want to change swicth simply because i want a refresh feeling (?) because i have this keeb for over 2 years.
Btw what kind of alcohol i may use? 70% alcohol? Or is it ok if i use vodka?
Btw do you have any thought on tecware phantom elite?
@@bobcut2022 First time I have seen them. I am not impressed by their other boards - I don't like outemu, soldered, and non-detachable keyboards. I do, however like the style and the simplicity of the boards. With some very small changes it could be a very good company and keyboard. I do like what they are doing with the phantom elite, but there are two main things that I do not like about the elite is the non-detachable cable, and the ABS keycaps. I would pay 30-40$ more for the phantom elite keyboard if it had PBT keycaps and a detachable cable. Their pricing doesn't seem to be bad, so if I were to buy this, as it is, with gateron switches, and without the features I am suggesting, it would have to be 70$ or below for me to want one. I would opt for getting other boards if it was above 75 USD. Other than that, I do feel that for a budget board, this would be a good buy, when it is available. Doesn't seem to be available yet, in the states. always use ISOPROPYL alcohol. Never use any other kind of alcohol. Ethanol spirits like vodka will leave residue and cause the terminals to short and become sticky from the sugars.
@@ireakhavok omg the sugar, i forgrt about that. Thanks!
Btw here in Indonesia, tecware phantom elite gateron red full size hot swapable is $56.
@@bobcut2022 Send me one to mod, lol. I can't that keyboard in the states, yet. and yes, I would guess that my price estimate is close to what I suggested because of shipping.
i lubed my mx blacks with dry ptfe lube, and its great, it doesnt destroy my plasticc though?
No, it doesn't!
Could I use wd-40 to lube the switches and stabilizers
@@ireakhavok ok thanks
don't use that. it will most likely cause your plastic to degrade. wrong kind of lubericant
help mine doesnt work after being re assembeled and shows up as a flash drive that says crp disabld. please help me :(
there is a switch on the bottom of the PCB that you are putting too much pressure on. Remove the pressure from that area and it should turn back on.
@@ireakhavok ok so, my keyboard has the katar firmware.bin do you have the k63 firmware.bin? i cant find it on google
@@marnarnoxmarnarnox1238 I do not have the .bin file. I would suggest reaching out to Corsair directly, they are generally pretty good at this kind of thing. I will be able to help you in a few days after I take my MCAT test. Right now, I am studying, and will be able to help you figure it out after the 10th.
Can you use the same method for corsair k63 *Wired*? Because I want some mods that don't include a risk braking or damaging my keyboard.
Yes, you can!
@@ireakhavok Looking to do the case foam mod would there be any extra steps that would be taken into account when I dissasemble the keyboard.
@@foggyd8821 Just make sure that it isn't plugged in, cut out some extra foam on the keyboard where the usb cable attaches to the keyboard and be careful if you unplug the USB header from the PCB. You may have to check for extra screws around where the USB cable goes into the body. If you need more help, join the discord and message me. link is on my channel page!
@@ireakhavok Thanks a lot. Might just do the lubing and the bandaid mod for more and when I feel like i'm ready that's when I'll get started with the case foam and stuff.
@@foggyd8821 Sounds like a good plan!
Sorry for having a lot of comments but, with the rubber kind of feet at the bottom of the keyboard would I use superglue to reapply it or maybe hotglue?
Totally fine to comment as much as you want! Don't use hotglue. I was able to just put them back on and they stayed there stuck just fine, even years later. But if you did end up getting them dirty or something, honestly I would just use a tiny bit of what's called rubber cement. Super glue won't allow for the rubber to flex as you move it around and cause it to eventually fall off.
@@ireakhavok would it matter if i just permanently took them off?
@@foggyd8821 it is just much easier to slide and scratch desk surfaces. if you have a deskmat, it's not that much of an issue, if you don't then I would suggest leaving them on, but if you're missing one or something you can leave them all off.
@@ireakhavok Do I need to undo all the screws I want to pop the case?
@@foggyd8821 yes.
Wait just to clarify? You don't have to solder the cherry switches when lubing?
:P No, you don't HAVE to, but it is definitely suggested if you have the time and moneys!
Sorry why would you add or heat up the solder and what doesn’t that have anything to do with lube
@@farmboy3632 No I meant like desolder the switches lol and solder the switches back together lol. Ngl i didnt know what i was yapping about.
I'm having trouble opening the case. I used the guitar pick multiple times along the keyboard and I can't seem to open it.
Just double check that you removed the screws. Underneath the little rubber bands there's going to be more screws. Once you do get the guitar pick in there and all the screws are out. The plastic uses what's called a tongue and groove which means that at random locations There will be a groove that some plastic is sitting in so you'll have to hold the old part of it open as you slide it through so you might need more guitar picks
@@ireakhavok Ok thanks, this well really help!
@@ireakhavok Also do i need to remove the scre at the bottom to pop the case?
Good day sir! Is your keyboard also having a firmware problem? Mine always gets disconnected sometimes :( Please help
I am not having any issues with mine! Sorry! I would say, just make sure that it is charged and use a very good cable in a USB 3.0 port, if you can. Don't use the 2.1 or whatever. Those are my only suggestions for firmware updates. You may also want to reach out to corsair, they do have better than average customer service.
@@ireakhavokHello sir! how did you update the firmware? Through iCue? Mine is not continuing. :( I'm also using the cable they provided. As i observed lately, it's just the firmware, everytime it gets disconnected, I just turn it off and then turn it on again.
@@ireakhavok Bro what version of iCue u are using? I can't update my firmware :(
@@janlerpadonan5298 make sure that you are doing everything on this page: help.corsair.com/hc/en-us/articles/360025278572-Update-device-firmware-with-iCUE the updater can be finicky, and with how often they push updates, I don't mess with them anymore. I have updated mine a couple times, but have stopped doing it.
Hey just a quick question, I have the same keyboard exept its wired, I dont know if its going to pose a problem during the dissasembly any tips ?
It should be mostly the same. Only difference would be to be careful when you actually separate the keyboard. There will be an extra part to disconnect from the PCB. Essentially a USB header wire connector. Maybe more screws around the wire? But I doubt it. Just be careful, and you should be fine. Lmk what you find out.
good video
Quick question: is there a way where i can remove the lube later if i regret doing it?
@@ireakhavok oh alright. thanks for the tip. massive respect to u
YT deleted my original comment: No, there isn't an easy way to remove lube! I haven't heard of anybody actually wanting to remove it! you can, say swab it up, but there will always be some residue.
bro I ended up getting my top plate broken by following your guide
I don't think it was because of my guide. Many 100's of people that have used my guide haven't had an issue. Sorry that you broke your keyboard. I never mess with the plate at all, do you mean the plastic cover? You should never use "unreasonable force" when it comes to anything electronic. My plastic cover has some very small scratches on it from where I stuck the plastic pick in the side and the rubber feet are easier to pull off. Next time you work on something, and are having trouble, reach out and ask!
@@ireakhavok the two gaps between f4-f5 and f8-f9 is too hard that I broke it
Is k63 wired hot swappable
Nope! Same as the wireless. That's why I top lubed it in this video
I tried out the foam mod with my K63 compact but upon putting it back together it shows up as CRD_DISABLD in My Computer. I have no idea why disassembling it can cause a brick.
It's not bricked. You didn't cut out the foam from the top left, like I suggested in the video. There is a way to fix it, I'm not entirely sure of the method. But when I get home from vacation I'll look it up. It may be as easy as just removing the foam from that spot.
@@ireakhavok I did go back and cut the foam out on the top left like in your video but the brick remained. Still though thanks a lot.
@@NoirGK- I would suggest to contact corsair support, they apparently can fix this with a firmware updater. help.corsair.com/hc/en-us
If you haven’t fixed it it happened to me as well. All I had to do was cut the foam and unplug the cable from the pcb
NIC, THANK YOU SO MUCH
My pleasure!
@@ireakhavok can you tell me how to reassemble the rubber base under the keyboard
@@eliasainsworth2587 well mine still retained the sticky glue stuff on the pads, they just stuck right back on. if yours didn't then you can use rubber cement to glue it back down, if you like, just don't use very much.
@@ireakhavok ok, you so friendly
@@ireakhavok I forgot to leave room for the switch on the bottom of the PCB :((( , is that ok?
will the lubing technique work with k68 rbg?
YT deleted my comment, yes.
Will the using super lube pen work on my K70?
YT deleted my original comment: Yes it should. I would just be careful to check and make sure it won't mess up or cloud your switches. Start with a small droplet on the housing and leave it for half an hour, if it clouds it up or warps it in that time, then don't use it.
Hi, I have a K68 w ring on the release of keys. Anything recommend? Reds.
@@ireakhavok TY. How do I get the lube in stem. Put a healthy amount on top side? A light weight that w flow into spring or heavy? Have superlube 50014 like maple syrup. (no desoldering)
@@ireakhavok Will try it. TY.
If you do not want to desolder, than I would definitely do foam, and top lube like I do in the video, being sure to not put too much lube. Wiping off the brush before each application should be good.
@@ireakhavok there's still a soft ringing noise, but improved since it doesn't echo. W replace w better foam and may move up to krytox. Wish I could put foam thin layer on top too.
@@Frank020 Sounds like a good plan of action! If you ever get a new board, try to get a hot-swap board so that you can do more with it without soldering! foam in between the PCB and the plate would be another great way to help stop ringing.
Where can I get the foam?
The foam I usually get from other packages that were shipped to me. It's another way to recycle. If you need to get some, then I would suggest getting some packing foam from uhaul. there is a link somewhere in the comments for some thin packing foam.
haveing any extra grease built up at all is going to collect debris over time and gum up your switches. The layer of grease should be very thin and idealy applied to the switches directly disassembled. Otherwise good video!
This is correct, however I've not had any issues, and I've wiped off the excess. I have several other videos where I do all the desoldering, etc.
@@ireakhavok Thanks for the response!
This had to be a discord mod
It's mah house! I'm no discord mod.
@@ireakhavok discord admin then xD
*puts mod voice on* your just looking to get banned from my channel! *Holds banhammer menacingly* Na dude for real tho I don't have time for stuff like that, I work hard for what I have. Get off your computer and go accomplish something, you pleb!
@@ireakhavok xD
WHY don't you SHOW HOW to DISASSEMBLE it!?
I do. ua-cam.com/video/IZPD4VPLMlE/v-deo.html
@@ireakhavok they're kinda right though. you actually miss out on the most important part.
not breaking off trhese little tabs. or, better: in which direction to move/wiggle the top to open it.
you don't wiggle it off, you stick a little flat pick in there and slide it around the edge. there are lock tabs. Just make sure you get every screw first. Any questions? It can be annoying to open if you've never opened anything before. LMK@@Todbrecher
@@ireakhavok I figured the exact same thing, but still ended up breaking about 5 of 17? hooks. Will be fine, cause I opened it for an experiment in the first place.
But in the end it would have been nice to see a video tuitorial on how to do it beforehand, to maybe tweak the process a little.
As for opening experience: All the poorly designed laptops I opened so far are nothing compared against this keyboard...
well, you're not wrong. this can be a little harder than a laptop. I don't have a clue how you could have broken so many, though. That being said, I'll take your criticism to heart and if I have a harder keyboard to open I'll show it a little better. @@Todbrecher