My old kettle started arcing and fizzing internally so I decided to get a new one. Let's have a look inside the old one and see how it works and what went wrong.
Kettle in family home will not auto switch off. I check the biometric disc (beneath the switch), it's fine. It flexs when heated and fully connects with the switch, yet will not trigger the switch when powered on. Kettle water just boils, boils, and boils away, rocking and shaking. Steam wand inside is not blocked and channels well onto the biometric disc (lid is on/shut). Completely perplexed with the unit at this point 😦😕.
Thanks for the video and some explanation. Maybe I'm more sensitive than most but the moving of the camera was making it a bit hard to watch. A tripod is great but even if you are just a little more conscious of keeping the camera on a particular spot instead of moving it in-line with your eyes, if that makes sense. Hope I'm not coming across as a complainer. I really am grateful for the helpful video and encourage you to keep making them, no matter how you shoot it because they are valuable to many people.
Could have been a lot more informative if you had shown the dismantling of the parts rather than show the part after it had been dismantled. Fairly good explanations otherwise.
Similar kettles in North America are labelled 1500 watts, yet the parts are exactly the same. That would indicate that the electrical kettle parts in Britain and Europe handle twice the current. That will certainly affect lifespan.
George Cyclist not twice the current, twice the voltage. We use 240V for everything here. A typical UK socket can provide up to 13 amps. 240 x 13 = 3120
My Russell Hobbs kettle (same as your new one here) has exactly the same mechanism all but the push down handle. Mine would not stay on and all it was the three screws that hold the mechanism had come loose!
Can't find the base to a really nice T fal electric kettle I found at the Goodwill on the bottom of the Tea pot it has this number N/14222 , unsure of the model number , the base indicates 220-240/1840-2200w 50-60hz Type -2115 Serie 1 , which base can I buy for this? does anyone know which base can I purchase for this electric TFal kettle, Alibaba has a few but I don't know which to get seeing the model # is unclear ,I'd greatly appreciate if someone can provide an answer , want to make some ginger and lemon tea ,please
Yousaf Akhtar the standard is actually 230V in the U.K. and Europe. The UK's standard used to be 240V but the tolerances were adjusted to fall in line with Europe years ago. The tolerances allow most existing U.K. Kit to remain at 240V and still be in spec. It's not unusual to see line voltages in excess of 250V. Europe increased their standard from 220 to 230 years ago as well. It was formalised in January 2003.
our earth and neutral rings have bent, meaning the kettle sticks to base each time we remove it. wonder if I need to buy thermal paste when replacing the terminal component? thanks!
Tony White If it's dried up then clean it off and put new compound on. It's cheap enough so it wouldn't hurt to do it anyway. It won't affect operation but it is used for safety in case you put the kettle on with no water or if it boils dry.
RedDragonUKTech thanks, turns out that in this throwaway world, it's more expensive to source the part than a new kettle. #buyingacheaperonenexttime :)
It’s a tube that passes the steam when the kettle boils into the base and on to the bi-metallic switch. The purpose is to turn the kettle off when it boils. The steam heats the bi-metallic strip that in turn flexes and turns off the switch.
Thanks for making this video! It was very helpful. I got the confidence, took apart my own kettle a couple times and fixed myself!
Kettle in family home will not auto switch off. I check the biometric disc (beneath the switch), it's fine. It flexs when heated and fully connects with the switch, yet will not trigger the switch when powered on. Kettle water just boils, boils, and boils away, rocking and shaking. Steam wand inside is not blocked and channels well onto the biometric disc (lid is on/shut). Completely perplexed with the unit at this point 😦😕.
So excited when I opened this vid cos your new kettle is exactly the one i'm trying to fix ha ha
Thanks for the video and some explanation. Maybe I'm more sensitive than most but the moving of the camera was making it a bit hard to watch. A tripod is great but even if you are just a little more conscious of keeping the camera on a particular spot instead of moving it in-line with your eyes, if that makes sense.
Hope I'm not coming across as a complainer. I really am grateful for the helpful video and encourage you to keep making them, no matter how you shoot it because they are valuable to many people.
Video was great. helped. a lot. haven't open mine yet. tear and wear. might be time to buy a new one. I did pay $30 or less. Thanks
You’re like me I like tearing things down when they break to
I also like doing this to fix things to
Could have been a lot more informative if you had shown the dismantling of the parts rather than show the part after it had been dismantled.
Fairly good explanations otherwise.
Similar kettles in North America are labelled 1500 watts, yet the parts are exactly the same. That would indicate that the electrical kettle parts in Britain and Europe handle twice the current. That will certainly affect lifespan.
George Cyclist not twice the current, twice the voltage. We use 240V for everything here. A typical UK socket can provide up to 13 amps. 240 x 13 = 3120
My Russell Hobbs kettle (same as your new one here) has exactly the same mechanism all but the push down handle.
Mine would not stay on and all it was the three screws that hold the mechanism had come loose!
The plastic but is broken in mine as well. Now I have a bit more of an idea about what to do about it without breaking it
Can't find the base to a really nice T fal electric kettle I found at the Goodwill on the bottom of the Tea pot it has this number N/14222 , unsure of the model number , the base indicates 220-240/1840-2200w 50-60hz Type -2115 Serie 1 , which base can I buy for this? does anyone know which base can I purchase for this electric TFal kettle, Alibaba has a few but I don't know which to get seeing the model # is unclear ,I'd greatly appreciate if someone can provide an answer , want to make some ginger and lemon tea ,please
i believe there is a thermal fuse as well please mention about it, thanks
how about indicator lamp.
pls kindly inform me what to use.
so how you can repair the leaking water liuid where must be vapor instead water?
240???? you mean 220 , thats the standard but can fluctuate between 220-240.
Yousaf Akhtar the standard is actually 230V in the U.K. and Europe. The UK's standard used to be 240V but the tolerances were adjusted to fall in line with Europe years ago. The tolerances allow most existing U.K. Kit to remain at 240V and still be in spec. It's not unusual to see line voltages in excess of 250V. Europe increased their standard from 220 to 230 years ago as well. It was formalised in January 2003.
Yousaf Akhtar I
Love it 😍 thank you , what is this sticky white substance under the electric circuit?
Heat conducting paste
What is the white past at the back of the kettle
our earth and neutral rings have bent, meaning the kettle sticks to base each time we remove it. wonder if I need to buy thermal paste when replacing the terminal component? thanks!
Tony White If it's dried up then clean it off and put new compound on. It's cheap enough so it wouldn't hurt to do it anyway. It won't affect operation but it is used for safety in case you put the kettle on with no water or if it boils dry.
RedDragonUKTech thanks, turns out that in this throwaway world, it's more expensive to source the part than a new kettle. #buyingacheaperonenexttime :)
Tony White yeah fair one, as much as I prefer to fix things instead of throwing them out sometimes it's just not feasible.
I have some thermal paste left over from doing the heat-sink on my computer's CPU and it was bloody expensive. What's your idea of cheap.?
Does anyone know what the white grease like substance is beneath the two metal discs and what is it's purpose
It’s thermal compound, it helps with heat conduction. It’s the same sort of stuff you use for CPU heat sink in a computer.
@@NoSignal_UK Thanks, I was hoping it might be that.
What's that long, black lever thing inside the kettle ?
It’s a tube that passes the steam when the kettle boils into the base and on to the bi-metallic switch. The purpose is to turn the kettle off when it boils. The steam heats the bi-metallic strip that in turn flexes and turns off the switch.
@@reddragon27284 Thanks
How did you get the metal backplate at 4:23 off? You said it was "pretty brutal"
i have same question. did you figure it out?
@@carlchai312 I just folded back the metal tabs, and the base plate came away, had to prise it with a screwdriver.
😙😙😒