it's ALL about the lenses. This I learned after using an OM-1 with Pro glass and ended up selling all my Canon R5 and RF L glass. I use f1.2 Pro glass as well as some of the f2.8 glass. For indoors it is exceptional. NOT lacking.
I have both Fuji and Olympus with a mix of pro and nine pro lenses. I switch between the two systems. The problems you mention never bother me. My Fuji kit, camera and lens, are smaller than my Olympus kit. I like the results I kit from both. I use the Olympus 1.8 lenses in low light all the time. The 75 1.8 is awesome. I’ll use it all the time for indoor sports. The Fuji f2.0 primes are also very good. Them along with the X-S10 make my Fuji kit smaller than my Olympus. The IBIS may not be as good as Olympus. But, it has never been a problem. I think both systems are excellent.
Could you say a few words about the color difference in the two systems? I am choosing between Olympus 5 iii and Fuji XS10. I have canon R6 from before and like the colors there. I wish for a more compact system.
Hi Tudor!! Excellent video but let me make some constructive comments: You didn't mention a lot of things that M43 offers and not Fuji that makes the system even more interesting: LiveView, LiveComposite are present even in the cheapest olympus cameras. In the upper side you have the LiveND and the HRES shot which offers an incredible improve in image quality AND (because of the on camera image stacking) a huge improve in noise and Dynamic Range. If you try it you will get impressed. (By the way, the XT4 has a fantastic IBIS too now) I have to disagree with you when you say that for "fun" M43 and for "professional" FF... I consider myself a professional landscape shooter and I don't think you can differentiate any of my M43 images (I am doing landscape) from any photo taken with a FF... and actually I asure you that lots of the photos I took are impossible with a FF (with my 8-25 Pro I can shoot 4 seconds handheld this changes the way you see photography... I promise you). With the OM1 camera now, you have the most advanced pro camera in the market (speed, focusing, computational, sealing...) The M43 was a system engineered without compromise as the best system possible in the digital world. It is not only a sensor, it is a whole... a sensor, crop factor, an IBIS, lenses, computational capabilities, read speed, etc... right now the differences in image quality are so minimum (impossible to say which camera took which photo actually) that don't compensate the huge amount of disadvantages that the unnecessarily big sensor have (except if what you need is a super bokeh and you are forced to shoot in very narrow spaces... which is a very specific situation). About the comparison, you didn't mention one thing... the aperture. Of you want the same field of view you will need to close the aperture in the Fuji or FF cameras, so you will have to increase the ISO for the same FOV. Then compare same ISO's between different sized sensors,is ok in lab, but totally fake in real life.
I swap from EM1 to XT2 and then back to EM13, fuji has a slightly better low light IQ than the EM1 but overall IQ is not that good TBH, and while I'm using the EM13+1025/1.7 with HHHR, I'm amazed that how fantastic the small sensor can do even I am using full-frame cameras but I still keep the EM13 and plan to upgrade to GH6 or OM1
I watched this video from the very beginning with a smile on my face, why because you were weighing up the exact same quandary that I find myself having every so often. That Panasonic IBIS is so valuable and I cannot pull myself to sacrifice it for a camera without it event though I really like the fuji x100v for the reasons you also mention. I too use the Olympus 12-100 and a few primes from both Olympus and Lumix, the 12-100 is a fine lens and renders really well. Yes that IBIS and especially combined with OIS where the lense permits opens so many creative doors. The GX9 is possibly the most underrated street photography camera for all of the above reasons and many more. And btw, Panasonic, I don’t shoot with Oly so don’t know, have some very nice Jpg filter settings plus you can dial in your own settings. I shoot full-frame too for studio work and landscape, but M43 will always have a place in my camera bag. Ignore M43 at your expense. This is a sincere and honest video, this guy is spot on in my view.
Thanks for the great video! Today I held a X-S20 and an OM-5, because after 10 years, I'd thought a new camera would be nice (I'm on 4/3). You've help me decide on what I already knew: I want to keep my gear light and not too big. The OM-5 is a really nice camera and a big step up for me, plus I can keep using my lenses, but I'm very tempted to get the 12-45 f/4 along with it (I saw your other video ;-) ).
Tudor, as a previous owner of the GX9 and several Olympus lenses, like you I miss my MFT kit. I'm an avid Fujifilm shooter and have been for the past 4 years but I've also shot with MFT LUMIX cameras as well. The GX9 is a perfect street photography camera especially if you're shooting in daylight. Low light will always be a problem for MFT for those who don't know how to properly use the system. I currently shoot with the X-Pro3, Leica CL, and the LUMIX S5 for varying use cases but I miss the GX9 so much I'm considering purchasing it again because it's a great camera. Whether you shoot MFT or APS-C, there's a place for each system depending on the type of photography you do.
@@Tudor_Mateescu my pleasure. The GX9 wasn't celebrated enough by LUMIX shooters and I was really hoping Panasonic would have made a GX10 with some of the same photographic technology they're planning for the GH6. Imagine a GX10 with 6-axis IBIS, dual-card slots, a higher resolution EVF and LCD, and a 24MP sensor. Also, a new line of lenses built for street photography. I'm sure I'm having a dream right now. LOL
I just bought a GX9 on Black Friday to maybe get into u43 coming from a Ricoh GR III and Fuji X-Pro 2. I’m not going to keep all three but I wanted to try out u43 for years now.
Very interesting video. Thanks. I sold almost everything from my Nikon Equipment and I’m very happy with my M43 Cameras and lenses. The new OM1 is FANTASTIC! I’m very happy with it.
Panasonic pro f2.8 are liter then Olympus. I use the Olympus f2.8 12-40mm and the Panasonic f2.8 35-100. I went with Olympus 12-40 over the Panasonic 12-35 for the extra 5mm for portraits for weddings. DXO stopped me form switching to full frame best noise reduction.
Back in my film only days, I primarily used Nikon 35mm SLR cameras and a Leica M6 35mm rangefinder camera. In 2007, I began using Nikon APS-C digital SLRs with my large inventory of Nikon lenses. In 2011 I began using Olympus micro 4/3 mirrorless cameras. In 2015, I switched from micro 4/3 mirrorless cameras to Fuji X-Pro APS-C mirrorless cameras. I had been happy with my micro 4/3 lenses, image quality, and the size of my Olympus cameras but the bodies broke too often for me to rely on them for professional work.
Hello Tudor. Thank you for explaining your dilemmas. I too angst over the same issues, trying to balance among several factors: smaller form-factor; lower weight; higher image quality, and overall versatility. A few years ago, I traveled throughout Italy, but Instead of using my current Olympus OM1M3 camera, I purchased a Fuji X100F for my trip. I too, missed the in-body-stabilization (IBIS), which X100F does not have. Thus, I had to increase my ISO to maintain 1/100 sec shutter speed, necessary to counter my somewhat shaky hands. I realized, while photographing the darker church interiors, not having IBIS, and thus, having to raise the ISO, negated the inherent, lower noise of the APS sensor. And since I print only 8in x 10in, pictures for my photo books, either camera, the Olympus or the Fuji would produce acceptable quality. With quality (visible sharpness and noise) now being equal, the IBIS feature still has a big advantage in allowing longer, hand-held, shutter speeds. I wanted to capture the motion of flowing water in the fountains, while maintaining sharpness in the stationary objects, which required a shutter speed in the range of 1/8 to 1/30 sec. I could not get sharp images with the X100F. This was the tipping point for me. After returning to the USA, I sold the Fuji and bought the Leica Q2. However, the Q2 is still bigger and heavier than I like. Recently, I purchased the Ricoh GRIIIx, which, so far, has checked all the boxes: IBIS, APS sensor, small and light, with excellent image quality. I am getting used to the optional, optical viewfinder, so far it is doable, but there is no perfect camera.
Hi Tudor. I recently bought the GX9 and the 15mm f1.7 Panasonic lens, so far i love using it, for me image quality very good indeed. If i continue to be impressed with the GX9 and MFT format (4:3 aspect ratio is perfect), i can see myself selling the X100V. I would probably miss it for a while but having a pro zoom for MFT could be ideal. Much more versatile.
Great! Test it a for a long period of time and see how it works. Personally the only thing I'm missing from Fujifilm are the film recipes. Also GX9 has lots of options to customize the jpegs (even more than Fujifilm) in certain ways.
I have a Olympus em1 with 12-40 2.8 lens. Like you said, I find indoor and portrait in general is lacking in m43. Should I get a lumix 25mm 1.4/voigtlander 25mm 0.95, or just go Fuji or full frame?
Lumix 25mm f1.4 would be a good start. Because it has AF and this is important. F0.95 it will work just for standing portraits, not moving being manual focus. Also there is the small and doing the job Olympus 45mm f1.8. And also Sigma 30mm f1.4 that I feel it's a perfect focal length on M43 for portraits. The best lens from this three I guess it's Sigma 30mm F1.4. If neither of this lenses are satisfiying you enough than my advice it's go with Fuji or even Sony a7c with Samyang lenses and a small Sigma zoom.
I shoot both the Olympus EM-1 Mk2 and the Fuji X-T4. I can honestly say the IBIS is much better on the EM-1. I upgraded from the X-T3 to the X-T4 mostly due to the IBIS. I could have upgraded the Olympus to the OM1 instead but I love the X System just as much as I enjoy shooting OM Systems.
Hi Tudor. Thanks for the comparison videos. I’ve just started my m43 journey with the GX85 coming from full frame Nikon DSLR/mirrorless and Fujifilm X100V systems. Question on using the pro Olympus lenses on the Lumix GX bodies, will the IBIS on the body still work well and in that case would the lens optical stabilisation work with the Likud bodies. Thanks again
Hi, yes the IBIS it's working with any lens but you'll not have Dual/Sync IS, so you'll have either IBIS or OIS depending on the lenses that you use, but no OIS AND IBIS togheter.
I have the Fuji XT2 and also Olympus OM 1 II and the IBIS is the main thing I miss with the Fuji. I don’t find low light performance with people that good either with the Fuji even using the 16-55 f2.8. I am still undecided which system to continue with. I do know that the OM1 for me is too expensive and not worth it. I do want IBIS as I take photographs in military museums that are very dimly lit. IBIS for me is very useful oh and the battery life with my XT 2 is terrible compared to the Olympus.
I cannot help but notice you are using an Olympus lens on the Lumix GX9. Great lens but it will not use the DFD+CDAF and so its focusing capabilities are compromised. The 12-100 does have Lens-IS but you can't get Dual-IS with it. I use both flavours of mft cameras (for ~10y) but stick to Lumix Power-OIS lenses for the Dual where that is needed. They work very well on Olympus backs and may even use the undocumented (patented) "Olympus Dual IS" (not to be confused with their Sync-IS). Unstabilised Olympus primes are good, it's their IS lenses that fall down on the job on current Lumix backs. They should be fully compatible but they have diverged. If you pop over to Photons To Photos and compare the actual noise and DR, you will find Fuji are actually noisier than MFT and the DR vs ISO very similar. A smaller sensor produces less heat, which is less electronic noise. The trick in poor light is keep the ISO low and close the aperture, this will of course make for a slow shutter, which is what the stabilisation is for. All cameras trade-off DR for high ISO. Use the right colour temperature too, AWB will be trying for 18% grey. I've often shot mft under poor stage lighting where a Fuji or Sony or Nikon has packed up and gone to bed unable to cope with the multi-coloured LED spots. The default NR on both Lumix and Olympus seems OTT to me, I drop it down a notch to reduce artefacts. Any changes you make for the jpeg which alters the gain, and most do, alters the raw exposure too.
Hello Tudor, I have been watching for a while but now I have to comment! You described perfectly my exact problem! I did not start with M43 though. I started with film (teenage years), moved to DSLR and then to Ricoh GR. Ricoh GR had too many failed bodies (dust, etc.). I also wanted interchangeable lenses. So then I moved to Fujifilm. In the last few years using only Fujifilm, I wanted even less weight, size for travel. Now I am looking at M43, but how much size and weight do you really lose? As you mention, the necessity for good light requires 1.4 lenses, which then does what? ADDS MORE WEIGHT! So now I'm back in the same situation if I buy these lenses. I want the best quality but for me, weight and size is #1. I have a shoulder and hand injury and so this is very important to me. Right now I have the Lumix GM-1 and 14mm F/2.5 only. I was going to add another body but for this reason, hesitating on purchasing M43.
HI! Unfortunately it doesn't give me subtitles in Italian, I'll try to understand what I can from the video. I wanted to ask you something. Have you ever tried om 1? In your opinion does this machine have good jpegs, in terms of pleasantness of the colours? bye thank you
hello. thanks for this great video. always been an olympus fan girl do bird photography mostly, agree the 75-300 mm is a fabulous lens used it for so long gave me beautiful results as here its always sunny. its also fabulous for video better than lumix 100-300 mm which is a little better for stills. now i use the 300 mm f4 pro and again this pro lens brought my photography to a whole new level. in sync ibis make video as if the are taken on tripod. only recently i got fujifilm xe3 to replace my dying pen f, right now i only have the kit lens 18-55 mm f4 i love the results for landscape and nature closeups like flowers and fruits. the first thing i have noticed is that the olympus IS is way better, not the IS of fuji s not good but olympus is something else. really happy with the xe3 loved it more than the gx9 by lumix which i found there menus so hard to understand. with your knowledge in fuji do you think the 55-200 mm f4.8 is good next level lens. thanks you again your beautiful images are so stunning, really inspiring. and yes i am keeping olympus.
Hello, Yes that 300f4 lens from Olympus it's something! I don't have any Fujifilm Zooms because when I've researched that segment I decided to stick with Olympus zooms or if I want better I would go to Sony Full frame with Tamron Zooms. But for Fuji, yes that zoom it's doing the job, being an APS-C I think it will be above the quality of 75-300 Olympus. Thank you very much for the comment and appreciation.
I switched from Nikon to Olympus because of mobility and IS. Yes the images are noisier, but DXO and other software has fixed this. This software will be in the cameras in the future. No more big lenses or tripods for me Hose! Fuji doesn't even come into the equation for us Wildlife photographers.
Thanks for interesting video & question: You mention Straight Out of Camera (SOC) images which I take to mean JPG? If yes, do you ever shoot RAW & what do you use for post processing?
Yes I shoot raw+jpeg and used Capture One which it's the best. But for the moment I use Adobe Lightroom with luminar and silver efex as plugins. I would like to move to capture one in the feature now that they've added the panorama stich and hdr stacking. But Adobe just introduced some other great functions like subject and sky auto selections, plus the catalog it's more intuitive and stable (I had big problems with Capture One catalog when I've got the paid version a few years ago).
Help! Coming from a fujifilm X-e3 I've recently bought an olympus e-m10 mark iii with 25mm 1.8 lens. However I wasn't very happy with image quality, it looked overly sharpened and not very natural. so much so that I've already sold the olympus on. I want to be sold to this micro 4/3 system, because of IBIS mostly, but my experience wasn't great. Should I try an e-m1 instead? Was it the lens t that isn't very good? Would love to hear opinions
No, the em1 will still be there. It really depends on the photographer, subject and light. I can get you. Yes MFT it can go there faster than Fujifilm. The best results are from raw files plus capture one. Try editing your files with capture one and see how you like them. Also if you don't use light to your advantage you'll have a bigger penalization on m43. And also the expectations should be lower. You can't do with a smaller sensor what you can do with a bigger sensor. Ideally m43 is great in summer time and traveling - I'm using it for this. Also for videos and product photography in the studio with lights. P.s. the 25mm is not a very good lens at F1.8. The 17mm f1.8 is ok. The 20mm f1.4 and the pro f4 zoom I love.
Hi Tudor. Great, great video )) Please help me. I am choosing a standard prime for my Olympus em1 m2 mostly for family, street and travel photography. I am stretched between Leica 25mm 1.4 and Olympus 25mm 1.2. Price difference for these two new lenses is about EUR270 where I live. I really want a great, sharp lens. Watched some reviews and Leica has a lot of good reviews. I am just concerned that some people say that weather sealing on Leica may not work 100% on Olympus due to different positions of rubber seals on lenses. What would you recommend? Olympus is definitely great but it is bigger and more expensive and difference in aperture not that big. Thanks!
Thank you. It depends on weight I guess. For family you really don't need weather sealing. Personally I would go for the smaller one. But... I was in same situation and decided to go for Olympus 20mm f1.4 lens. Because it's small, and for family I prefer to be closer - so it will work great indoors too. My first review ua-cam.com/video/7QQx7dkl--s/v-deo.html And second ua-cam.com/video/3uxIfDcjRRo/v-deo.html
Hi! I really enjoy this video and I'm in a similar spot right now. I'm starting with engage more into photography and I haven't solved yet the gear issue... :-) I've been using Fujifilm and I'm not totally happy with it, and honestly, not totally happy with my photographic skills to... :-) But talking about gear, I got in touch with the Micro 4/3 system and I've been enjoying the variety and type of lenses it has, comparing it to Fujifilm... The size and weight matter to me because, now, I'm more into street, city and documental photography, and the weight and volume that you carry when you go out or travel, do make a difference... To finalize this I have two questions... Which Panasonic fast lenses do you consider to use in lower light conditions?... Or you stick with the Olympus ones... What do you think about Fujifilm XT4 and Panasonic G9? Best wishes from Portugal!
Panasonic 25mm f1.4. g9 and XT4 very good cameras, xt4 better IQ for humanistic photography, g9 very good for video, street, nature photography. Both very good cameras.
✍ Check blog post with image samples and resources here tudormateescu.com/switch-to-fujifilm-from-m43/ 📸 Go here to see how I use Fujifilm X100v and X-PRO 3 and receive my PRIVATE POV tudormateescu.com/get-access-to-the-goodies/
Are M43 Pro lenses such a huge leap above other lenses? I am not convinced. I have a GX9 and Olympus 17mm f1.8 (amongst other lenses), I can get very sharp detailed photos. Maybe the Pro 17mm f1.2 or 20mm f1.4 would be better but surely only if you pixel-peep?
It's not about pixel-peep. The pro lenses have better micro-contrast, contrast, details and resolution. The overall image has more detail, and more texture. I don't know how good is 17mm f1.8. I have the 25mm 1.8 that it's so and so. I have the 45mm f 1.8 that I like it very much but still not at the level of a pro lens. I also have the 20mm f1.7 Lumix II and what can I say it's that the pro level glass it's something else: you get more details, better rendering, better resolution, better color, better tones, better gradation... The 12-100 f4 pro when I bought it, blew my mind how good it is - and still now when looking at the pictures (the majority of the picture from the video are done with 12-100f4). The 12-45mm f4 lens I find it to be a little better than 12-100, and I can use it with great results in low light situation (not so low, but without sun in summer - and I get very detailed images, NOT FLAT images). The OM 20mm f1.4 it's above at f4 regarding this zooms... so.. if you have a chance to try a pro zoom or a pro lens test it and see the results...
@@Tudor_Mateescu thanks for the detailed reply. I will have to get a pro lens one day. I just don't like the size, cost and eight of them. By the way, I also have the Oly 60mm f2.8 macro, it is my favourite lens, the pictures from it are superb.
@@MichaelGerrard I know what you mean. I also have the Olympus macro 30mm f3.5 and also the details for macro work but also for portraits it's superb. The small pro lenses are the 12-45mm f4 zoom and this 20mm f1.4 from what I know.
@@MichaelGerrard the Olympus 17/1.8 is a pretty soft lens, with lots of chromatic aberrations. Even the very cheap Laowa 17/1.8 is a much better lens. You will see a difference with the Olympus Pro lenses even in small prints, no need to pixel peep. I own the 17/1.2 Pro, it’s brilliant. It’s not as big or heavy as it looks online.
For me, switching brand will not make me a better photographer. For me switching brand only make GAS (gadget acquisition syndrome). Better for me to improve my skill in composition, etc etc. Of course, this is only for me. In my country, these brands are expensive ones.
Hello! I like what you do (it seems you do too). I need your opinion... if you can give me some advice about buying a camera and a lens. I want to take pictures of my children and pictures (both close and far) in nature with mountains, waters, sun and shadows. I am not locked into any brand or model, however I would be happy to be able to purchase the kit somewhere around $1000. Thanks.
Hi and thank you. It's a long talk and I've made a video here ua-cam.com/video/y9_Tclvb8X4/v-deo.html My advice it's to pick Fuji X-E4 with the small zoom 15-45 and add a small prime lens (23mm F2). This setup will give excellent colors and image quality being very lite and portable. So if you want to get one please use my affiliate link here amzn.to/3LHgOqM Also the X-E4 kit with the 27mm f2.8 it's a good starter kit and then add a zoom or a prime. But X-e4 should be the foundation (best camera for family starting with family pictures - good jpegs, good sensor, fast AF - it has the sensor, AF and image quality of x-t4). A little downside is that it can get warm if you use the clarity effect - but there are no issues. And I don't recommend to use the clariry effect for family photography because it will slow you down and kids are moving fast.
Very interesting video, but pro lenses does not give pro images! We have to train our ability to take sharp mages at slow speeds and Iso:s! One over six @ f8 at Iso 800is more than possible with some training! / Ulf
@@belalang90 I'm using 100-400 and 70-300 for wildlife with my fuji camera but the weight with 100-400 +battery grip is about 2kg... I'm always telling myself that I've gone the wrong way... the discussion IQ / Weight is an important factor ... when I look some of the image of mft , it make plenty of sense to go mft...
Nah! Olympus colour science is the best, IBIS is better, proven track record in WR sealing of camera bodies and lenses for decades, live composite, Procapture, 60 fps RAW files ...
APS-C allows slightly more light but the Olympus IBIS allows slower shutters. A lot better IBIS in Olympus. Pro Grade is more about the build quality than the image quality. the 45mm Olympus is tack sharp, picked it up for $200. I can also hand hold my OM-D for 3.5 seconds.
It is amazing how a simple comparison video can teach you so much about photography! Subscribed!
Awesome, thank you!
it's ALL about the lenses. This I learned after using an OM-1 with Pro glass and ended up selling all my Canon R5 and RF L glass. I use f1.2 Pro glass as well as some of the f2.8 glass. For indoors it is exceptional. NOT lacking.
Exactly!
Olympus makes some of the best leases in the market and way better than fuji, in my opinion .
I have both Fuji and Olympus with a mix of pro and nine pro lenses. I switch between the two systems. The problems you mention never bother me. My Fuji kit, camera and lens, are smaller than my Olympus kit. I like the results I kit from both. I use the Olympus 1.8 lenses in low light all the time. The 75 1.8 is awesome. I’ll use it all the time for indoor sports. The Fuji f2.0 primes are also very good. Them along with the X-S10 make my Fuji kit smaller than my Olympus. The IBIS may not be as good as Olympus. But, it has never been a problem. I think both systems are excellent.
Could you say a few words about the color difference in the two systems? I am choosing between Olympus 5 iii and Fuji XS10. I have canon R6 from before and like the colors there. I wish for a more compact system.
Hi Tudor!! Excellent video but let me make some constructive comments:
You didn't mention a lot of things that M43 offers and not Fuji that makes the system even more interesting: LiveView, LiveComposite are present even in the cheapest olympus cameras. In the upper side you have the LiveND and the HRES shot which offers an incredible improve in image quality AND (because of the on camera image stacking) a huge improve in noise and Dynamic Range. If you try it you will get impressed. (By the way, the XT4 has a fantastic IBIS too now)
I have to disagree with you when you say that for "fun" M43 and for "professional" FF... I consider myself a professional landscape shooter and I don't think you can differentiate any of my M43 images (I am doing landscape) from any photo taken with a FF... and actually I asure you that lots of the photos I took are impossible with a FF (with my 8-25 Pro I can shoot 4 seconds handheld this changes the way you see photography... I promise you).
With the OM1 camera now, you have the most advanced pro camera in the market (speed, focusing, computational, sealing...)
The M43 was a system engineered without compromise as the best system possible in the digital world. It is not only a sensor, it is a whole... a sensor, crop factor, an IBIS, lenses, computational capabilities, read speed, etc... right now the differences in image quality are so minimum (impossible to say which camera took which photo actually) that don't compensate the huge amount of disadvantages that the unnecessarily big sensor have (except if what you need is a super bokeh and you are forced to shoot in very narrow spaces... which is a very specific situation).
About the comparison, you didn't mention one thing... the aperture. Of you want the same field of view you will need to close the aperture in the Fuji or FF cameras, so you will have to increase the ISO for the same FOV. Then compare same ISO's between different sized sensors,is ok in lab, but totally fake in real life.
Very good points, thank you 🙏
Moisho is everywere!
@@mistergiovanni7183 I like ti keep myself informed and learn as much as I can from as many sources I can.
I swap from EM1 to XT2 and then back to EM13, fuji has a slightly better low light IQ than the EM1 but overall IQ is not that good TBH, and while I'm using the EM13+1025/1.7 with HHHR, I'm amazed that how fantastic the small sensor can do
even I am using full-frame cameras but I still keep the EM13 and plan to upgrade to GH6 or OM1
The solution to missing ibis is the xs10.
I watched this video from the very beginning with a smile on my face, why because you were weighing up the exact same quandary that I find myself having every so often. That Panasonic IBIS is so valuable and I cannot pull myself to sacrifice it for a camera without it event though I really like the fuji x100v for the reasons you also mention. I too use the Olympus 12-100 and a few primes from both Olympus and Lumix, the 12-100 is a fine lens and renders really well. Yes that IBIS and especially combined with OIS where the lense permits opens so many creative doors. The GX9 is possibly the most underrated street photography camera for all of the above reasons and many more. And btw, Panasonic, I don’t shoot with Oly so don’t know, have some very nice Jpg filter settings plus you can dial in your own settings. I shoot full-frame too for studio work and landscape, but M43 will always have a place in my camera bag. Ignore M43 at your expense. This is a sincere and honest video, this guy is spot on in my view.
Thank you 🙏😊
Thanks for the great video! Today I held a X-S20 and an OM-5, because after 10 years, I'd thought a new camera would be nice (I'm on 4/3). You've help me decide on what I already knew: I want to keep my gear light and not too big. The OM-5 is a really nice camera and a big step up for me, plus I can keep using my lenses, but I'm very tempted to get the 12-45 f/4 along with it (I saw your other video ;-) ).
Tudor, as a previous owner of the GX9 and several Olympus lenses, like you I miss my MFT kit. I'm an avid Fujifilm shooter and have been for the past 4 years but I've also shot with MFT LUMIX cameras as well. The GX9 is a perfect street photography camera especially if you're shooting in daylight. Low light will always be a problem for MFT for those who don't know how to properly use the system. I currently shoot with the X-Pro3, Leica CL, and the LUMIX S5 for varying use cases but I miss the GX9 so much I'm considering purchasing it again because it's a great camera.
Whether you shoot MFT or APS-C, there's a place for each system depending on the type of photography you do.
Thank you very much for the comment and input! It really matters knowing I'm not the only one thinking about how great it's Lumix GX9 👍😁
@@Tudor_Mateescu my pleasure. The GX9 wasn't celebrated enough by LUMIX shooters and I was really hoping Panasonic would have made a GX10 with some of the same photographic technology they're planning for the GH6.
Imagine a GX10 with 6-axis IBIS, dual-card slots, a higher resolution EVF and LCD, and a 24MP sensor. Also, a new line of lenses built for street photography.
I'm sure I'm having a dream right now. LOL
I just bought a GX9 on Black Friday to maybe get into u43 coming from a Ricoh GR III and Fuji X-Pro 2. I’m not going to keep all three but I wanted to try out u43 for years now.
Very interesting video. Thanks. I sold almost everything from my Nikon Equipment and I’m very happy with my M43 Cameras and lenses. The new OM1 is FANTASTIC! I’m very happy with it.
Thank you and yes, the OM1 it's extraordinary!
wow i really liked olympus but i didn't know why, thank you for clear that to me !
The short answer: Don't switch from MFT.
Panasonic pro f2.8 are liter then Olympus. I use the Olympus f2.8 12-40mm and the Panasonic f2.8 35-100. I went with Olympus 12-40 over the Panasonic 12-35 for the extra 5mm for portraits for weddings.
DXO stopped me form switching to full frame best noise reduction.
Im using both: Oly OM1 and Fuji X100V.
Perfect duo.
Thanks Tudor, much appreciated. Some very good comments from other veterans as well.
Back in my film only days, I primarily used Nikon 35mm SLR cameras and a Leica M6 35mm rangefinder camera.
In 2007, I began using Nikon APS-C digital SLRs with my large inventory of Nikon lenses.
In 2011 I began using Olympus micro 4/3 mirrorless cameras.
In 2015, I switched from micro 4/3 mirrorless cameras to Fuji X-Pro APS-C mirrorless cameras. I had been happy with my micro 4/3 lenses, image quality, and the size of my Olympus cameras but the bodies broke too often for me to rely on them for professional work.
Very interesting, thank you!
Hello Tudor. Thank you for explaining your dilemmas. I too angst over the same issues, trying to balance among several factors: smaller form-factor; lower weight; higher image quality, and overall versatility. A few years ago, I traveled throughout Italy, but Instead of using my current Olympus OM1M3 camera, I purchased a Fuji X100F for my trip. I too, missed the in-body-stabilization (IBIS), which X100F does not have. Thus, I had to increase my ISO to maintain 1/100 sec shutter speed, necessary to counter my somewhat shaky hands. I realized, while photographing the darker church interiors, not having IBIS, and thus, having to raise the ISO, negated the inherent, lower noise of the APS sensor. And since I print only 8in x 10in, pictures for my photo books, either camera, the Olympus or the Fuji would produce acceptable quality. With quality (visible sharpness and noise) now being equal, the IBIS feature still has a big advantage in allowing longer, hand-held, shutter speeds. I wanted to capture the motion of flowing water in the fountains, while maintaining sharpness in the stationary objects, which required a shutter speed in the range of 1/8 to 1/30 sec. I could not get sharp images with the X100F. This was the tipping point for me. After returning to the USA, I sold the Fuji and bought the Leica Q2. However, the Q2 is still bigger and heavier than I like. Recently, I purchased the Ricoh GRIIIx, which, so far, has checked all the boxes: IBIS, APS sensor, small and light, with excellent image quality. I am getting used to the optional, optical viewfinder, so far it is doable, but there is no perfect camera.
Very good points! Indeed Ricoh GR it's ticking very well this boxes!
What you think about the gr3x? I want to try it but I am worried about the price tag and there are better value choices
I've had both. The OM-1 is leagues beyond anything Fuji
Especially in ergonomic point of view 💪
Why not try Fujifilm S X10. It is the cheaper then XT4 which has also an IBIS.
Hi Tudor. I recently bought the GX9 and the 15mm f1.7 Panasonic lens, so far i love using it, for me image quality very good indeed. If i continue to be impressed with the GX9 and MFT format (4:3 aspect ratio is perfect), i can see myself selling the X100V. I would probably miss it for a while but having a pro zoom for MFT could be ideal. Much more versatile.
Great! Test it a for a long period of time and see how it works. Personally the only thing I'm missing from Fujifilm are the film recipes. Also GX9 has lots of options to customize the jpegs (even more than Fujifilm) in certain ways.
I have a Olympus em1 with 12-40 2.8 lens. Like you said, I find indoor and portrait in general is lacking in m43. Should I get a lumix 25mm 1.4/voigtlander 25mm 0.95, or just go Fuji or full frame?
Lumix 25mm f1.4 would be a good start. Because it has AF and this is important. F0.95 it will work just for standing portraits, not moving being manual focus.
Also there is the small and doing the job Olympus 45mm f1.8.
And also Sigma 30mm f1.4 that I feel it's a perfect focal length on M43 for portraits.
The best lens from this three I guess it's Sigma 30mm F1.4.
If neither of this lenses are satisfiying you enough than my advice it's go with Fuji or even Sony a7c with Samyang lenses and a small Sigma zoom.
Have you considered adding a G9 to the stable? The 80MP high res mode is quite something for larger prints and for those scenes that can benefit.
Very good addition, indeed G9 it's an excellent camera and that high res mode its something!
I shoot both the Olympus EM-1 Mk2 and the Fuji X-T4. I can honestly say the IBIS is much better on the EM-1. I upgraded from the X-T3 to the X-T4 mostly due to the IBIS. I could have upgraded the Olympus to the OM1 instead but I love the X System just as much as I enjoy shooting OM Systems.
What do you enjoy about X system?
@@bestbidio I like the nostalgic feel and look, the film simulations and the sensor takes great photos.
@@Vincent13997 how does taking videos compare for em1 ii and xt4?
@@bestbidio I don’t shoot much in movie mode but I’d say the X-T4 has the Olympus beat with options.
@@Vincent13997 what kind of options?
Hi Tudor. Thanks for the comparison videos. I’ve just started my m43 journey with the GX85 coming from full frame Nikon DSLR/mirrorless and Fujifilm X100V systems. Question on using the pro Olympus lenses on the Lumix GX bodies, will the IBIS on the body still work well and in that case would the lens optical stabilisation work with the Likud bodies. Thanks again
Hi, yes the IBIS it's working with any lens but you'll not have Dual/Sync IS, so you'll have either IBIS or OIS depending on the lenses that you use, but no OIS AND IBIS togheter.
I have the Fuji XT2 and also Olympus OM 1 II and the IBIS is the main thing I miss with the Fuji. I don’t find low light performance with people that good either with the Fuji even using the 16-55 f2.8. I am still undecided which system to continue with. I do know that the OM1 for me is too expensive and not worth it. I do want IBIS as I take photographs in military museums that are very dimly lit. IBIS for me is very useful oh and the battery life with my XT 2 is terrible compared to the Olympus.
The solution may be the Fujifilm X-T5, good IBIS and battery. ua-cam.com/video/fnBmE0oJALo/v-deo.html
I cannot help but notice you are using an Olympus lens on the Lumix GX9. Great lens but it will not use the DFD+CDAF and so its focusing capabilities are compromised. The 12-100 does have Lens-IS but you can't get Dual-IS with it. I use both flavours of mft cameras (for ~10y) but stick to Lumix Power-OIS lenses for the Dual where that is needed. They work very well on Olympus backs and may even use the undocumented (patented) "Olympus Dual IS" (not to be confused with their Sync-IS). Unstabilised Olympus primes are good, it's their IS lenses that fall down on the job on current Lumix backs. They should be fully compatible but they have diverged.
If you pop over to Photons To Photos and compare the actual noise and DR, you will find Fuji are actually noisier than MFT and the DR vs ISO very similar. A smaller sensor produces less heat, which is less electronic noise. The trick in poor light is keep the ISO low and close the aperture, this will of course make for a slow shutter, which is what the stabilisation is for. All cameras trade-off DR for high ISO. Use the right colour temperature too, AWB will be trying for 18% grey.
I've often shot mft under poor stage lighting where a Fuji or Sony or Nikon has packed up and gone to bed unable to cope with the multi-coloured LED spots.
The default NR on both Lumix and Olympus seems OTT to me, I drop it down a notch to reduce artefacts. Any changes you make for the jpeg which alters the gain, and most do, alters the raw exposure too.
Thank you for the video. I loved it! Can one use Cobalt profiles for video?
No you can't... :(
@@Tudor_Mateescu thank you for the answer.
Hello Tudor, I have been watching for a while but now I have to comment! You described perfectly my exact problem! I did not start with M43 though. I started with film (teenage years), moved to DSLR and then to Ricoh GR. Ricoh GR had too many failed bodies (dust, etc.). I also wanted interchangeable lenses. So then I moved to Fujifilm. In the last few years using only Fujifilm, I wanted even less weight, size for travel. Now I am looking at M43, but how much size and weight do you really lose? As you mention, the necessity for good light requires 1.4 lenses, which then does what? ADDS MORE WEIGHT! So now I'm back in the same situation if I buy these lenses. I want the best quality but for me, weight and size is #1. I have a shoulder and hand injury and so this is very important to me. Right now I have the Lumix GM-1 and 14mm F/2.5 only. I was going to add another body but for this reason, hesitating on purchasing M43.
I know...
@@Tudor_Mateescu I might just use my XH2S which I use professionally. I love M43 but maybe I just use them for fun.
HI! Unfortunately it doesn't give me subtitles in Italian, I'll try to understand what I can from the video. I wanted to ask you something. Have you ever tried om 1? In your opinion does this machine have good jpegs, in terms of pleasantness of the colours? bye thank you
I have Olympus OMD EM 10 IV, and the colors are great!
hello. thanks for this great video.
always been an olympus fan girl do bird photography mostly, agree the 75-300 mm is a fabulous lens used it for so long gave me beautiful results as here its always sunny. its also fabulous for video better than lumix 100-300 mm which is a little better for stills. now i use the 300 mm f4 pro and again this pro lens brought my photography to a whole new level. in sync ibis make video as if the are taken on tripod.
only recently i got fujifilm xe3 to replace my dying pen f, right now i only have the kit lens 18-55 mm f4 i love the results for landscape and nature closeups like flowers and fruits. the first thing i have noticed is that the olympus IS is way better, not the IS of fuji s not good but olympus is something else. really happy with the xe3 loved it more than the gx9 by lumix which i found there menus so hard to understand.
with your knowledge in fuji do you think the 55-200 mm f4.8 is good next level lens.
thanks you again your beautiful images are so stunning, really inspiring.
and yes i am keeping olympus.
Hello,
Yes that 300f4 lens from Olympus it's something!
I don't have any Fujifilm Zooms because when I've researched that segment I decided to stick with Olympus zooms or if I want better I would go to Sony Full frame with Tamron Zooms.
But for Fuji, yes that zoom it's doing the job, being an APS-C I think it will be above the quality of 75-300 Olympus.
Thank you very much for the comment and appreciation.
My first camera was MFT system than Fujifilm came along and my heart was altered.
Thank you so much. 📷 Always good light ☀️
Thanks for watching
I switched from Nikon to Olympus because of mobility and IS. Yes the images are noisier, but DXO and other software has fixed this. This software will be in the cameras in the future. No more big lenses or tripods for me Hose! Fuji doesn't even come into the equation for us Wildlife photographers.
Thanks for interesting video & question: You mention Straight Out of Camera (SOC) images which I take to mean JPG? If yes, do you ever shoot RAW & what do you use for post processing?
Yes I shoot raw+jpeg and used Capture One which it's the best. But for the moment I use Adobe Lightroom with luminar and silver efex as plugins. I would like to move to capture one in the feature now that they've added the panorama stich and hdr stacking. But Adobe just introduced some other great functions like subject and sky auto selections, plus the catalog it's more intuitive and stable (I had big problems with Capture One catalog when I've got the paid version a few years ago).
@@Tudor_Mateescu Thanks,
Help! Coming from a fujifilm X-e3 I've recently bought an olympus e-m10 mark iii with 25mm 1.8 lens. However I wasn't very happy with image quality, it looked overly sharpened and not very natural. so much so that I've already sold the olympus on.
I want to be sold to this micro 4/3 system, because of IBIS mostly, but my experience wasn't great. Should I try an e-m1 instead? Was it the lens t that isn't very good?
Would love to hear opinions
No, the em1 will still be there. It really depends on the photographer, subject and light. I can get you. Yes MFT it can go there faster than Fujifilm. The best results are from raw files plus capture one. Try editing your files with capture one and see how you like them.
Also if you don't use light to your advantage you'll have a bigger penalization on m43. And also the expectations should be lower. You can't do with a smaller sensor what you can do with a bigger sensor. Ideally m43 is great in summer time and traveling - I'm using it for this. Also for videos and product photography in the studio with lights.
P.s. the 25mm is not a very good lens at F1.8. The 17mm f1.8 is ok. The 20mm f1.4 and the pro f4 zoom I love.
Hi Tudor. Great, great video )) Please help me. I am choosing a standard prime for my Olympus em1 m2 mostly for family, street and travel photography. I am stretched between Leica 25mm 1.4 and Olympus 25mm 1.2. Price difference for these two new lenses is about EUR270 where I live. I really want a great, sharp lens. Watched some reviews and Leica has a lot of good reviews. I am just concerned that some people say that weather sealing on Leica may not work 100% on Olympus due to different positions of rubber seals on lenses. What would you recommend? Olympus is definitely great but it is bigger and more expensive and difference in aperture not that big. Thanks!
Thank you. It depends on weight I guess. For family you really don't need weather sealing. Personally I would go for the smaller one.
But...
I was in same situation and decided to go for Olympus 20mm f1.4 lens. Because it's small, and for family I prefer to be closer - so it will work great indoors too.
My first review ua-cam.com/video/7QQx7dkl--s/v-deo.html
And second ua-cam.com/video/3uxIfDcjRRo/v-deo.html
Hi! I really enjoy this video and I'm in a similar spot right now. I'm starting with engage more into photography and I haven't solved yet the gear issue... :-) I've been using Fujifilm and I'm not totally happy with it, and honestly, not totally happy with my photographic skills to... :-) But talking about gear, I got in touch with the Micro 4/3 system and I've been enjoying the variety and type of lenses it has, comparing it to Fujifilm... The size and weight matter to me because, now, I'm more into street, city and documental photography, and the weight and volume that you carry when you go out or travel, do make a difference... To finalize this I have two questions... Which Panasonic fast lenses do you consider to use in lower light conditions?... Or you stick with the Olympus ones... What do you think about Fujifilm XT4 and Panasonic G9? Best wishes from Portugal!
Panasonic 25mm f1.4. g9 and XT4 very good cameras, xt4 better IQ for humanistic photography, g9 very good for video, street, nature photography. Both very good cameras.
@@Tudor_Mateescu Thank you for your reply. I’m quite divided about this two. Now the Panasonic is much cheaper…
I have the Panasonic 12 mm 1.4 and the olympus plus 45 mm 1.2
guess what 20 mm next
Good choice 👍📸
Great job!!!I agree with your opinion 👍
✍ Check blog post with image samples and resources here tudormateescu.com/switch-to-fujifilm-from-m43/
📸 Go here to see how I use Fujifilm X100v and X-PRO 3 and receive my PRIVATE POV tudormateescu.com/get-access-to-the-goodies/
Are M43 Pro lenses such a huge leap above other lenses? I am not convinced. I have a GX9 and Olympus 17mm f1.8 (amongst other lenses), I can get very sharp detailed photos. Maybe the Pro 17mm f1.2 or 20mm f1.4 would be better but surely only if you pixel-peep?
It's not about pixel-peep. The pro lenses have better micro-contrast, contrast, details and resolution. The overall image has more detail, and more texture. I don't know how good is 17mm f1.8. I have the 25mm 1.8 that it's so and so. I have the 45mm f 1.8 that I like it very much but still not at the level of a pro lens. I also have the 20mm f1.7 Lumix II and what can I say it's that the pro level glass it's something else: you get more details, better rendering, better resolution, better color, better tones, better gradation...
The 12-100 f4 pro when I bought it, blew my mind how good it is - and still now when looking at the pictures (the majority of the picture from the video are done with 12-100f4). The 12-45mm f4 lens I find it to be a little better than 12-100, and I can use it with great results in low light situation (not so low, but without sun in summer - and I get very detailed images, NOT FLAT images). The OM 20mm f1.4 it's above at f4 regarding this zooms... so.. if you have a chance to try a pro zoom or a pro lens test it and see the results...
@@Tudor_Mateescu thanks for the detailed reply. I will have to get a pro lens one day. I just don't like the size, cost and eight of them. By the way, I also have the Oly 60mm f2.8 macro, it is my favourite lens, the pictures from it are superb.
@@MichaelGerrard I know what you mean. I also have the Olympus macro 30mm f3.5 and also the details for macro work but also for portraits it's superb. The small pro lenses are the 12-45mm f4 zoom and this 20mm f1.4 from what I know.
@@MichaelGerrard the Olympus 17/1.8 is a pretty soft lens, with lots of chromatic aberrations. Even the very cheap Laowa 17/1.8 is a much better lens.
You will see a difference with the Olympus Pro lenses even in small prints, no need to pixel peep. I own the 17/1.2 Pro, it’s brilliant. It’s not as big or heavy as it looks online.
Do you prefer the 12-40 f2.8 or the 12-100 f4 ?
I would say in the end I prefer 12-100 F4 - superb zoom !
Came from FF. love m 4/3
DXO PhotoLab or DXO PureRaw can sharpen even crappy lens very good. Like the first version of the Panasonic 18-140mm is very good with DXO.
Very cool, yes I want to try it.
Have you tried any of the Sigma F1.4 lenses for M43? I have the 30 & 54mm lenses and they are incredibly sharp.
I have it for Fuji, sigma glass is good indeed!
I have the 16mm and love it!!
For me, switching brand will not make me a better photographer. For me switching brand only make GAS (gadget acquisition syndrome). Better for me to improve my skill in composition, etc etc. Of course, this is only for me. In my country, these brands are expensive ones.
You should have compared the OM-1 to Fuji, the OM-1 kicks it's butt
Hello! I like what you do (it seems you do too). I need your opinion... if you can give me some advice about buying a camera and a lens. I want to take pictures of my children and pictures (both close and far) in nature with mountains, waters, sun and shadows. I am not locked into any brand or model, however I would be happy to be able to purchase the kit somewhere around $1000. Thanks.
Hi and thank you. It's a long talk and I've made a video here ua-cam.com/video/y9_Tclvb8X4/v-deo.html
My advice it's to pick Fuji X-E4 with the small zoom 15-45 and add a small prime lens (23mm F2). This setup will give excellent colors and image quality being very lite and portable.
So if you want to get one please use my affiliate link here amzn.to/3LHgOqM
Also the X-E4 kit with the 27mm f2.8 it's a good starter kit and then add a zoom or a prime. But X-e4 should be the foundation (best camera for family starting with family pictures - good jpegs, good sensor, fast AF - it has the sensor, AF and image quality of x-t4).
A little downside is that it can get warm if you use the clarity effect - but there are no issues. And I don't recommend to use the clariry effect for family photography because it will slow you down and kids are moving fast.
@@Tudor_Mateescu interesting, it's one year newer and about 250 g lighter than x-t4, but has less resolution for videos.
Great streetfotography pictures.
Get DXO PhotoLab or DXO PureRaw best noise reduction.
i believe Olympus camera may have a better AF than fuji
good info, thanks
Very interesting video, but pro lenses does not give pro images! We have to train our ability to take sharp mages at slow speeds and Iso:s! One over six @ f8 at Iso 800is more than possible with some training! / Ulf
You may laugh, I'm thinking the other way for landscape and wildlife.
People might argue for landscape due to MFT 'limitation' on dynamic range. But for wildlife, I think MFT is the best.
@@belalang90 I'm using 100-400 and 70-300 for wildlife with my fuji camera but the weight with 100-400 +battery grip is about 2kg... I'm always telling myself that I've gone the wrong way... the discussion IQ / Weight is an important factor ... when I look some of the image of mft , it make plenty of sense to go mft...
Yes
:)
Nah! Olympus colour science is the best, IBIS is better, proven track record in WR sealing of camera bodies and lenses for decades, live composite, Procapture, 60 fps RAW files ...
Can Olympus take as good video as x-t4?
APS-C allows slightly more light but the Olympus IBIS allows slower shutters. A lot better IBIS in Olympus. Pro Grade is more about the build quality than the image quality. the 45mm Olympus is tack sharp, picked it up for $200. I can also hand hold my OM-D for 3.5 seconds.
OMG how do you know that i want to change from my olympus to fuji? LOL
There's even more powerful 25mm f1.2 and 45mm f1.2 that's even more bokeh and speed!
Should I switch? Nope!
No
NO!