I had to switch my 2n over to 12 volt because I couldn't keep the generators working also..i done this about 10 years ago and havent had a problem since..just did a tune up with points, condenser. And rotor..ive been running this tractor here on my farm for 35 years. People love to see it in my gardening videos..ty for doing this video.. Rick in NC
Thanks for watching Rick. Yeah dealing with charging issues due to junk cut out relays and junk brushes for the generators anymore got to frustrating and expensive keeping it 6 volt
Great looking tractor and well cared for. Just performed this same upgrade on a friend's 1946 2N but instead of connecting the red wire of the Pertronix ignition to the coil positive (37:30 in the video) I ran a dedicated wire from the ignition switch to the red wire of the ignition. Reason being, if connected to the coil terminal the voltage to the electronics in the ignition is dropped to 8-9 volts by the ballast resistor. This is less than the intended 12-14 volts normally applied to the electronic ignition during operation. One additional modification was to connect a ground wire from the stud that holds the electronics to the plate to the threaded hole where the condenser once attached to provide the best ground possible. Great work!
I've seen that wiring done before. Reason why I didn't do it was I didn't want a wire on the outside of the new wire harness and I didn't want to open it up to put it in.
Great video!... You can't go wrong when you deal with Derek at Just 8N's! I'm fortunate to live about 20 minutes from his shop and he has been a tremendous help every time I go in!
I rebuilt my Ford 8N last year, changed it over to an electronic ignition, thanks for making this amazing education step by step video Jason!! It started on the first crank over!!
Jason, I keep coming back to your videos year after year as I do misc maintenance on my ford tractors. Your videos are by far some of the best on these models. Thank you.
Great video, helped a lot with my installation. One thing I found out, by accident when looking on an antique tractor forum, is that the Pertronix part needs suppression spark plug wires, not the standard wires with a steel or copper core. I called Pertronix and they confirmed this. It's not mentioned in the instructions. Steiner Tractor has them, so does a company called Brillman. Pertronix says without the suppression wires, the electronic ignition can fail.
You are absolutely correct. At the time of this video I was not aware of this until 4 years later. As you said it's not in the directions. Fortunately. In my opinion the cheap square coils we have available today are pretty weak compared to the round oil filled coils. In my opinion they don't produce enough juice to create the electromagnetic pulse that could destroy the module. I have since replaced all the plug wires on all my Fords just to be safe, but I had several hours on the old copper wires with no issues.
Terrific video! I just bought a Ford 8N and a Ford 900. The 8N is a six volt and it runs fine - I used it last summer to operate a brush hog. The wiring is a mess on both tractors. The 900 uses a 12 volt but the alternator isn't charging the battery. I appreciate gentlemen like you who show me the right way to perform upgrades that don't take away the history of these historic machines. Thank you, Jason!
you alternator needs to have about 14 v to charge 12v batter measure batt voltage with it running look for 14 volts if yous ee say 8 volt its a 6 volt alternator
My dad did that years ago on a ford tractor, convertto 12. Volt, alternator and electronic ignition. But left the starter as a six volt. Everybody said it would burn out . That starter was never changed ,it started so fast and easy.
There is a common myth out there that a 6 volt starter won't work with 12 volts. Obviously that is false. In all honesty 6 volts is harder on the starter and other components. Like you said the 12 volt system starts these engines so fast.
Yes as everyone else said Very good video. I'm like you today I put on and adjusted 3 different sets of points and even a new complete base plate with points set too, for a front distrisbuter and 3 times it ran for one minute and the points would not open and close for more than a minute and it quit running. ....Most New points are junk....I'm going Electronic on this one I have done it in the past and most of the times it's very easy install . When you put your test light on the coil to see if you had power I like to take it one step further and turn the motor over with the test light attached coil to see if the light blinks on and off telling me the points are opening and closing properly....GREAT JOB !!
Thanks Bruce! I normally put a meter on there instead of a test light when I'm actually trouble shooting. A test light will light up with any amount of current but isn't telling you if you got enough.
Again thank you so much for your help I do not know a lot about these older tractors but I am very much wanting to learn. I enjoy doing all the work myself and do not like having to have other people work on my equipment. So your knowledge and the fact that you will take time to help his extraordinary. Thank you very much
Hi, I am back again and having a other look and would like to add a second comment. Always run the earth lead from the battery direct to the engine and then earth the engine to the bodywork, doing it this way gives a perfect power flow to the starter motor and eliminates any loose or dirty connections in the body or frame. I have been a heavy diesel mechanic on trucks and earthmovers for over fifty years so I am talking from experience.
Hi Bob welcome back! You are giving a good tip. However I'm one to try and keep things simple and fallow the book and keep the wiring simple and less of it. I can honestly say I never have had and kind of grounding issues with any of my tractors other then right at the battery posts.
Just bought a '40 9N with 12V but with points. Gonna get changed ASAP. Perfectly clear and information filled presentation - thank you, sir! Joe S (USAF Ret. AK and ID)
i have a 53 dodge trk 6cy uses points no problem if you are having pitting prob on points change dist. condenser may have wrong mfd value or it is def condenser must match coil for max spark very easy to install wrong condenser.
Jason...thanks for posting this video! I kind of stumbled onto your channel, and this conversion really interested me. I don't own a tractor, but enjoy working on vehicles. I wanted to let you know that your presentation was awesome!! Great camera angles so viewers could get a clear view, audio that was clear, and spot-on knowledge of the subject and explanation of the process. Thanks again and keep up the great work!
By the way...that's a beautiful little tractor. Super job on the restoration! I agree with your mind set on the 12v upgrade. It's one thing to enjoy the "originality" of the tractor, but also practicality plays a big part. I'm glad you use it for what it was meant to do...work!
Very thorough video. Back in the day my Dad had a 9N. He took the front wheels off and replaced them with car tires. It was a lot smoother driving across a plowed field.
Barny Canuck my great grandfather used to do that but it was because he was to cheap to replace the tires with tractor tires but it made it hard to steer.
The bigger tires eat up your steering gears. We have two since new, a 1944 and a 1947. The 1944 had the 4.00-19 replaced with 6.00-16 truck tires then tractor tires in late 1950s. The 1947 still has the 4.00-19s the 1944 has completely worn out 3 sets of steering gears while the 1947 still has the original steering gears. We have now bought new wheels and put the 4.00-19s on the 1944 to much easier steering too.
Great video man; had an 8-N on the farm growing up. As a young boy I remember using it to feeding the cattle in the cold winters we used to have in north Georgia back un the 60’s. Rarely did it ever fail to start even in the coldest winter day and If it didn’t, it was always a battery issue. Just don’t make um like that anymore ! Great content and very informative 👍
Hi Jason, just got finished watching this entire tape video rather and I’m glad I did because it’s exactly what I’m gonna be doing to my Ford two and when I get up and work on this spring when it gets up warm up West Virginia but I’m converting it over to 12 V and I’m gonna put headlights tail lights and electronic ignition too so it exactlyshow me how to do all that so good take thank you
Awesome video. I used your video to do my 12 volt conversion on my 1947 2n. I ordered all my parts through Just8ns and was extremely pleased with the quality of parts. I have my own youtube channel and was going to video my conversion but nothing beats your video. very informative with step by step instructions. Thanks for putting in the work and time in to making this video.
Just watched this video for the second time, my brother has a 58 8n that sat for a while and was already converted to 12v. It won't run when it gets hot, sooo, so this video explains alot !!! I'm an OK mechanic, so this helped me answer all the question- problems that we are having ! Going to redo it your way!! Thanks! You have no idea how simple you made this for me! Good day! Especially about the resistors, figured there was one in the alternator , Going with electronic ignition also!
@@stevehamman4465 It's fairly normal for a coil to get hot to the touch,but there is such a thing as too much. A lot of the 12 volt coils being processed don't have enough windings in them. They are equivalent to a 6 volt. It is important to test any coil with a meter to see how much resistance it has. You may need to add a extra inline resistor. Generally a 12 volt coil will have around 3.0 ohms of resistance where as a 6 volt will be around 1.5 ohms. You can use a 6 volt coil with 12 volt battery but you would need to add a extra resistor.
@@Jason1Pa , Thanks ! This isn't a rush job. , it's to hot outside for this old timer! May have to pick your brain later on! Thanks for the information!, Good day!
@@Jason1Pa , when I was younger my father bought a used blue and grey diesel Ford, New Holland engine. 9n ?? 64 something?. 4 speed . It was burning oil , so was going to have it fixed , dude took it apart then said he couldn't find parts for it. This was 40yrs ago, so ?
thank you Jason , I was very anxious to hear it running , I hope you'll give that red a new coat, good luck with this piece of antique its beautiful , I just bought one its an 8N original shape it's already converted to 12 volt I will check the conversion as soon as my 8N will arrive to its new home.
Another "Great" for the video. Nice work explaining the centering of the static timing. When I installed the 1247 electronic ignition on my '50 front mount 8N I think I had to run a separate 12 volt line from the ignition switch with a diode to keep the tractor from running after I shut it off. I did have an after market ignition switch with no accessory terminal though.
@gregpratt6926 A lot of people hate it,but a lot of people love it. I currently have 4 tractors that have it and only experienced one failure and it was totally my fault. I didn't have enough resistance. My first tractor to get switched to EI was in 2004 and still going strong. One thing I failed to mention in the video is changing the copper core plug wires
liked your video nice looking tractor. I am doing and convert a 6N 6volt to 12volt and electronic ignition had a water pump go bad and dump all the antifreeze fan hitting shroud and sheared blade off a never got into radiator. I purchased the old tractor last year to handle job I was doing was a hassle to jumper it all the time. I'm a machanic have work on anything that rolled pushed or carried in door so I here you on the quality poor made products out there these day parts quality products use to last years and if they failed your could repair them or purchase a OEM standard repair kit these days its sucks because if you have a part fail you replace it with a worse quality made part that made in china you be lucky if you get a year out of it
@@Jason1Pa hay man how's things going? My name is Sean and I would like to get a full list of names of parts, model numbers and such for the parts you used in the video. I have an 8n that I have to replace all wires on and any and all info will help. It runs but takes a battery and jump box because I've been to lazy to replace the dryroted wiring lol. Thanks
Jason with your help, I just got Rachel running!!! Total rewire and electronic ignition. Never heard it run this good!! Bought 5 years ago finally get some satisfaction!. Driving her (41 ser# 85407) from Brunswick md to martinsburg wv cause I can't get a trailer..... thanks for your videos, hydros is next
That is great to hear!!! I do have hydraulic repair videos if you have not seen them yet. Good luck on your trip and be safe!! I Googled the distance and it says about 30 miles. I've given one 35 miles on a tractor run. It will feel slow but take your time. I would highly recommend taking another coil with you. These new ones arn't very good. If you have a extra you probably won't need it.
'MERICA! awesome video. Really appreciate your knowledge an explanation. I will be buying my first 9N I believe it's a 48. Hopefully my conversion to 12 volts goes smooth
9Ns were made from 1939 to 1942 then came the 2N from 1942 to 1947. Then in mid 1947 the 8N came out and lasted until 1952. Good luck with with your new tractor
There is a time for everything. Parts in a bag should you sell and you don't strike me as a seller. I love the fine detail and effort to keep original as most won't have a clue. I never apologize for making my stuff work for me as its mine and I can throw it off a cliff if I want to. You and I both know the satisfaction of using a tool that means something to the holder
Im the proud owner of a IH 434 witch i got after my dad passed away (it was his) and speaking of coolant i actually cant remember the last time the coolant on it was changed, i think i was 1 or 2 yrs old (im 14 now) so thats 12 yrs of pulling tree stumps out of the ground and driving medium sized row boats to the beach douring hot summerdays (20* plus) and ripping trees out like plants with roots and everything with me at the wheel (i was 10-11 so i remember it like yesterday) and now its sitting in a shed at one of my dads friends (my godfather) where im currently restorating it, i bumped the radiator a few days back and its leaking fluid so its gonna be the dirst time in over a decade its gonna recieve new fluids 💦
Piney life Suggested your UA-cam channel and I am here for your guidance. Thank you for your knowledge and expertise. And hello, from Romulus, Michigan.
Hello!! Thanks for stopping in and commenting! Hope you find a lot of my Ford videos helpful. Your not too far from the Henry Ford Museum and Village? I've been there a couple times. Along with the Michigan Speedway and Lake Michigan. Very beautiful state!
@Jason1Pa actually at 275/94 in romulus 12 miles w from Henry Ford Greenfield village the family and i go there about 3 times a year The tractor I picked up is about 1947 I cranked it over today just to see if it would it was in gear at moved, did not fire. Wire harness is a mess I would like to get it running. I need to find out if the block is good or not. Do you have a step 1 video? For a known tractor. Meaning I have no idea about this tractor
@@Jason1Pa no I don’t know where they got that name but that’s the grandson that I have around now he’s only one that I’ll make contact with so he’s going to get this Tractor when we get done and he’s gonna learn how to work on it so have a good day
Thank you Jason for this very informative video. I converted mine to 12 volt using the kit from just 8n's and also there was a guy on the forum I forget which 1 it was.maybe the 8n forum.( I have a 1948 8n by the way,) who pulled the guts out of his coil put an external coil and then ran the coil wire down through the old cap and soldered the secondary coil wire in place where the coil contacts the dist. cap and that's what I did and it works really good I have an external coil that I got from Napa with an internal resistor 12 volt and it really works good and I just wondered what I'd have to do to put the electronic in there I'm using the points and condenser right now so probably just the same thing I just have to solder or just put the The wire coming up from the electronic ignition system to where I placed the coil wire now and that would probably work ideal.🎚️🇱🇷🇱🇷🇱🇷🙏🚜🚜btw the old 8n whom I named " BUbba-Tom" starts@the first punch of the starter button after it's warmed up.
Glen Yes,putting a external round coil is a good choice if you want to make your ignition system almost bullet proof. The square coils of today are just junk. I thought about getting the kit from Yesterday's Tractor at some point but for now I just keep a few extra coils on hand for the Fords. Sounds like you have the right idea when it comes to wiring up the EI just one thing I forgot to mention in the video you need to change the copper core spark plug wires to the modern suppression ones. The copper ones can create a electronic pulse that could damage the EI module.
@@Jason1Pa thank you Jason yeah I'm going to order those wires when I ordered the EI so yeah I read that part in there I guess another reader or viewer had seen that and asked about that so that's what I'm going to do I'm going to order it when I order the kit thank you Jason for what you do I'm going to tune into this I'm going to subscribe so you have a good good day bye 😉😉🎚️🇱🇷🇱🇷🙏🚜
Good video - and I agree with you about the Pertronix. i've been using them a long, long time. I think the first one I bought was $12 or $18 ( can't remember now - about 1970). Over the years I've converted 7 or 8 vehicles and never had one go bad. Believe me, the're more than $18 now.
I think the whole kit for the front mount distributors is around $130 give or take. Depends on who you get it from. If down the road you'd need to replace the module only it would be around $60
Great content! So happy you did this like they really should be done. Made the whole process on conversion seem like a cake walk, even though I'm certain it wasn't as easy as you made it seem. The addition of the Dennis Carpenter headlights also was in keeping with the original, being an actual Ford die that made the shell and rings. The braided wire loom was a logical and perfect departure for your connections. Thank you for your efforts. Know that if I should find myself working on a Ford N-series tractor one day, I'll have the know-how and confidence to tackle the job at hand. Will be staying tuned in for all your content in the future.
@@Jason1Pa just thrilled to see folks who bother to do things that really lend dependability and stick to the standards that made these tractors the workhorse of most folks farms. It was practical advice with common-sense tips on just how to make it come all together well. Thanks for taking a moment to respond back. Be safe and stay well.
Thank you! This video answered a few questions I’ve trying to find answers for regarding an 8n a buddy of mine has that someone swapped the 12v kit over from another 8n onto this one. There has been more than one issue or I should say conflict with the 3/4 12v kit and 1/4 6v system. 😤
Liked, subscribed, and did the notifications. Like your videos - very well done. I appreciate you taking the hood off of the tractor so that we could see what is going on. WOW- your tractors are CLEAN! I have a 1952 8N with Sherman transmission
Thank you!! Glad you enjoyed! Hopefully some new videos being posted soon. Tractors are clean because I restore them and retire them. 😆 I'd like to get a late model 8N with a Sherman someday. Right now I'm looking around for a Sherman for my 48 8N.
@@Jason1Pa I got lucky when I got mine. I still use it for light work on my place Up North, but I also have a small diesel kubota with a front loader and 4wd (and power steering).... Great machine.. already converted to 12 volts, but none of the gauges are hooked up or lights.. I want to put LED replacement lights in it, then do the body work
@@joecnc3341 the side distributor 8Ns are nice to do the electronic ignition on since you have the round coil. You can get a "hot" one and will have enough resistance with out any extra resistors. Just a word of caution get new plug wires. Get new carbon core. Don't use the copper core wires. They can produce a electronic pulse and damage the electronic ignition module.
Great video Jason....I have an 8N and it is in rough shape. Had it converted to 12v and this would have been very doable even for a non mechanic like myself. Thank you.
Im doing my conversion now. I can see how the distributor is designed to only be installed one way but my distributor will go on either way so it definitely could be put on 180 out. To anyone reading this take note of the orientation of the shaft when you take the distributor off just in case.
Wow you must have a lot of wear!! Or someone at one time made the slot in the cam shaft bigger at one time for whatever reason. They should only fit one way.
starlin hembree You wouldn't need it if you are using the original style resistor that's on the firewall. Now if your tractor has some other way of being wired and doesn't use the original resistor then chances are you do.
Great video. I've got a 1940 9n and the charging system never worked. I've seen videos and everyone wired up there systems differently and sorta scared me on doing a conversion. So I am ordering both a 12volt charging system and ignition system( always burning up points). Thanks for showing me/us how easy it is to do
Your very good at teaching a pretend mechanic like me how to do it the right way. Thank you now I'm able to try it myself. At least I've got a video to keep me from messing up. A shad tree mechanic such as myself always ends up with a few extra parts at the end of the job. Lol.
I appreciate the kind words!! I don't consider myself the best teacher in the world but I give it my best. Good luck with your conversion!! And don't worry about those extra parts. Extra parts just shows you made it better!!😂 LOL
Great video, I really enjoyed it. Nice touch painting the alternator black. I've been on the fence about converting my 9N to 12V. It currently has a 3rd brush generator and I've had a few issues. I had to replace a cutout because it wouldn't close. I didn't notice for a while so the generator got really hot spinning with no load on it. With the new cutout it's charging but it's overcharging, I can't get it to charge any less than 9 amps on its lowest setting so I'm guessing it's only a matter of time before it needs the generator rebuilt.
Dave M Thanks I'm glad you enjoyed it. I can assure you at 9 amps you will cook that generator in a short amount of time. I generally don't like to go over 3 amps
I was afraid of that. Is this the kit that you used from just8N's - www.just8ns.com/8NE10300ALTC-Years-1939-50-12V-Conversion-Kit-Front-Mount-Dist? I like the alternator bracket you used.
12 Volt system is the only way to go on those tractors, we had a 8N the whole time I was growing up and that thing would barely start unless we had a brand new battery in it, we replaced batteries generators wiring everything and it never was dependable and I finally converted it over to 12 volt and just left the 6 volt starter in it and from that day on it started perfect every time and I never did have to change that starter, just a quick bump on the starter button and it was running every time, 12 Volt is the only way to go, hands down.
Especially now with the junk electrical parts. As I stated in the video I NEVER had a problem with starting or even charging for YEARS. The last 10 years have been a nightmare. Thanks for watching!
Could you make a short video on how you routed the wiring for your lights. Did you include the wire for the headlights in the harness you zip tied to the spark plug tubing? My 41 9n has headlights but no harness. I want to add rear lights just like yours. I'm impressed with your workmanship.
I'm sorry I missed your question. I should do a video on the lights. That question comes up. Since the lights were a add on and never from the factory you can pretty much do it how you want. Really no right or wrong way. Yes I just zip tied to the spark plug tube.
Hi Jason, I watched a few of your great videos on my smart TV. I also watch any other videos on the 9N, 2N, and 8N. I have a 1946 2N since about the middle of the 1960s. It came from a farm in South Holland, IL for the price of $300.00. My dad bought it for our 5 acres. We used it to remove snow, plow a garden, pull a trailer, dig post holes, and mow with a mott mower. Also used it to pull out bushes, small tree stumps, and broken fence posts. I always wondered if the 2N I have came from the factory all grey? Also did it come from the factory with a solution in the tires for weight? I won't change to the 12 volt electronic ignition because of the EMP threat. I would like to get different tires for the front end as the tires on it are shaped funny. I was told the front tires are for onion fields. The tires are skinny round with a center protruding lip. When plowing it is hard to hold the steering wheel steady with these kind of tires. I always wished my dad would have got a later model 8N with the four speed high low range transmission. I have kept the tractor under a roof since owning it. I have the hood off to replace the front axle bushing. I also want to fix the leak down hydraulic system. I believe 90 weight gear lube is recommended for the trans and hydraulic system. For awhile I was using 10 weight hydraulic oil as I didn't know any better. I never see a 2N with the coil spring under the seat. My coil spring broke. I believe the coil spring seat is an upgrade from the curved spring seat. It also has a shock absorber mounted to the seat. On the hood grill it says Ford Ferguson system I believe. I guess that was a hand shake agreement and then it turned ugly when Ferguson saw the money he was loosing. A local Ford Implement dealer replaced the riveted rear axle hubs with bolts and castle nuts locked down with cotter pins. If the Ferguson system is working properly while plowing the tractor's front end is not suppose to climb up and flip over killing the driver. How do I know if this Ferguson System is working properly? Thanks for your videos. Thanks Fred Z Orland Park, IL
Hi Greg! I have a 46 2N as well. My parents bought it back in early 70s I'll try to answer all your questions Yes your tractor would of been all gray. All 9N and 2Ns were all gray No liked in the tires did not come from the factory. You don't need to worry about EMP if you change your plug wires to a non copper core. It sounds like the seat you have was a aftermarket seat that was offered. To know if your lift system is working is simple. If it goes up and can hold weight even after you turn the PTO off your good. Also if it goes down as well. There is no draft control or position control like the 8Ns have. If you have anymore questions feel free to send me a email at jbeluschok@yahoo.com
A 52 8N has a total different design. That would be a side distributor not a front mount. Also the alternator is on the left hand side. Thanks for watching
One big problem with using the 6 volt coil on a 12 volt alternator is that you have reversed polarity on your spark plugs. With reversed polarity, the spark jumps from the ground electrode to the hot electrode. The problem with that spark would rather jump from a hot surface to a colder surface. Making a hard starting hot tractor. I know, my grandpa & my uncle had 8, 9N, 2N, & 8N. Some 6 volt, some 12 volt with an alternator, some 12 volt with a battery charger. The way that you can check your spark plug polarity is, hold the spark plug terminal away from the plug, insert a sharp pencil in the gap. If the flare is on the spark plug side of the pencil, excellent! NOTE: I like to put a rubber replacement eraser on the pencil, if you touch the metal band, you will get shocked! Look in the tune up section of an old Motor’s Manual. Either the blue car edition or the green truck & pickup edition. Good luck. Looking good. Hello from north east Montana. 10 miles from the Canadian border.
You are correct. It's interesting though that in a lot of cases I've talked to people that switched to 12 volt coils they wouldn't hold up as long. Throw a 6 volt with a added resistor and the 6 volt coil lasts. Odd. I'm assuming it's either luck or the 12 volts are just cheaper made. I currently have one Ford that's 12 volt with a 6 volt coil and it starts fine and runs fine. If it ain't broke I guess don't fix it. 😆 Thanks for reply and thanks for watching!
@@Jason1Pa I wonder if with the Ignitior Electronic Ignition conversion kit that you might have enough cranking spark to over come the reverse polarity. We put a 12 volt alternator on our NAA so that we could run the 12 volt winch on the PTO grain auger. At that time, about 1992, I had to make our kit, and build up an alternator. If you take one off of a 83 to 86 Buick Electra with the Olds 307”Y” motor. The alternator charges 25 amps at engine idle. 65 amps at full throttle. That alternator works great on Farmall M, SMTA, 400, 450, 706 gas or diesel, 806 gas or diesel. This alternator also solves the IHC 86 series where you can not run the A/C on high for very long, otherwise you will have a low enough battery that it may not start. Hello from north east Montana. 10 miles from the Canadian border.
Boy I really know what you mean about the low quality import parts. It sure gets aggravating messing with that stuff. Especially when it goes down at the worst possible time. I had no idea electronic ignition was available, thats good to know, thanks :)
Gunters Garage The struggle it real man. LOL I am a 6 volt guy and took me years to convert but I am tired of breaking down. You'd be surprised you can get electronic ignition for just about everything these days.
I know what you mean. I like 6 volt and points for the cool factor. People are always “oh wow your still running 6v & points”. Its funny how some folks think its a big deal. If you can get good parts everthing works fine. Key word good parts, lol.
Jason you were talking about how many generators you went through... we had a 9N and it would Cook the coil at least once a year... That was frustrating.
I'm assuming they are the square front mount distributor kind? Yeah they are junk. I get 1 to 2 years out of one. I always have a few on stock ready to go if I need one. There is away to modify the front distributor and put the regular round automotive coil on them. I haven't had the nerve to do it yet though.
Nice neat job there Jason! I just got a 53 Jubilee I’d like to switch over to 12 volt and also the Petronius ignition system. Would send me the links for your suppliers and also the spark gap tester. I’d really appreciate a reliable supplier for this stuff. Thanks for your help. I’m a subscriber so I’m looking forward for more of your videos.
Hi George! Any of my videos about Ford tractors I use parts from either Just8ns. com or Dennis Carpenter. I believe I got my spark tester at Advance Auto Parts years ago.
I don't recall how much I payed but it wasn't that much. I'm sure you can shop around other places. I do like this style better then most but there are all kinds of spark testers out there. shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/lisle-coil-on-plug-spark-tester-20700/11148098-P?searchTerm=spark+tester
Jason... great video... Can you make a video explaining the wiring throughout these tractors? I love how you give an understanding of all the critical features..
Fantastic... My tractor is stilla 6 volt with stuff on it that I'm not sure what it is! The layout of the wiring is the part I'm trying to understand! What wire goes where and why! Thank you for the detail you share!
@@barbschlegel3680 What tractor do you have? 9N 2N 8N? Google JMOR wiring diagram for 6 volt Ford then the model number. They are pretty easy to fallow wiring diagram.
Jason... I'm not sure.. The tractor was repainted and you can't make out the model number what so ever....I think maybe an 8N... All I know is that it's a 42 Ford!
@@barbschlegel3680 if it's a 42 it's not a 8n. Either a 9N or 2N if you'd like you can email me at jbeluschok@yahoo.com and I can see if I can help you out especially if you can send a picture or 2
I learn from my lap to always use distilled water in your radiator, cause regular tap water has a lot of junk that attacks the cylinder walls. Like minerals,chlorine and other things if It's well or city water. Just thought you'd like to know.
One of our old Olivers came with an eight volt system. Ever try and find an eight volt battery? Most were converted to 12 volts,and the starters held up under the increased voltage.
8 volt batteries have some challenges with them. First if you just drop it in and expect the 6 volt system to charge it you will be disappointed because they won't. You need to tweak the voltage regulator to be compatible with the 6 volt generator. Your average Joe (including myself) don't understand how that is done. Most of the old generator repair places can do it for you BUT they are almost off the face of this earth. It's a lost art. On this particular tractor there is no voltage regulator. They used a simple cut out relay and there is no adjustment that can be done. One would think you can turn up the generator to produce more juice but the end result would be a burnt up generator. Also personally I like to put all my batteries on battery maintainers or a charger when needed. You will not find a charger for a 8 volt battery.
Great video, I like your clean look. You brought up the ballast resister and alternator, but made no mention of the starter. must it be replaced with the 12 v conversion?
No the starter is fine being 6 volt. Unless you'd really set there and crank and crank and crank on it there won't be a problem. There are some places that can change the field coils to make the starter a 12 volt starter. If something would ever go wrong with any of my starters I'd get a 12 volt starter at that time. Thanks for watching!
what if engine camshaft was moved during carbon cleaning during head gasket replacement?can it be 180 out of time?or as you said" if dist dog goes in correctly you are timed correctly?Also is 9n HEI kit # different from side mount distributor?thanks.great videos
Yes the kits are different. The front mount distributor has a plate that comes with it. The side distributor just requires a module. Your distributor will only go on one way. You could turn the engine over until your blue in the face then put the distributor in where it fits flush on the cover and you are set. Just make sure your points are set correctly and the distributor is statically timed first if you ever had it apart for repair.
What ohm coil and which wiring diagram did you use for rest of tractor? I'm very frustrated with my points and am just going to strip it all off and reinstall all new.
If you have a 12 volt system you want a coil with 3.0 ohms. If lower you'll want to add a extra resistor. Google JMAR wiring diagram for your particular model and set up. What issues are you having with the points. EI isn't always going to solve your problem especially if the distributer bushings are worn.
@BobThielen-t9p Well the frustration with new electric parts can be irritating. I've had more than one coil come out of the box and not work so that's a possibility. Unfortunately the EI modules are voltage sensitive. A little too much or too little and they won't work. Are you using the OEM resistor on the dash? Did you check the resistance on the new coil?
I bought an 8n at an auction for 400 the rebuilt the motor new everything and could not get it to run and they said that they thought the cam gear broke or came off or it was out of time. I got it home took the hood of anticipating on taking it apart. I put a battery in it turned it over a few times and all it did was back fire through intake and couple time through exhaust looked at plug wires they were correct then I popped the cap and realized it had electronic ignition in it got looking at the wires out of the distributor which they did a really nice job putting it all in nice cloth wire loom and everything but they had the red lead on the neg side of coil and black on the pos side I switched them around and still did the same thing I played with it a little and then called pertronix they told me it was probably junk but how to check it and I ended up ordering other ignition got it in a couple days put it in and tractor fired right up so I got a rebuilt 8n with no hours on it for a little over 500 with the cost of buying the tractor and the cost of the new ignition
Awesome story!! Just a heads up. Replace your plug wires if they are copper core. They create a electronic pulse that can damage the module. Also check your coil to see how much resistance it has. A lot of these 12 volt coils only have 1.5 ohms of resistance. That's not good. It needs to be around 2.5 or more. If it's low you will need to add a extra resistor or you'll be burning up coils and Petronix modules.
I have the full pertronix ignition system including the coil and using 8mm plug wire because that is what the customer service guy from pertronix recomended.
Jason - great video, but I have a challenge. 8N is now 12v. Electronic ignition is installed. Power is at the coil - no spark. New coil, cap rotor and wires. Any suggestions?
I looked into this a lot.Even spoke to a company in California that does 12 volt alternator conversions to antique cars. Generally tractor generator shells are too small to have it converted to a 12 volt alternator. They can do this to car ones but they are much larger in size. Using a car one for these tractors would probably look even more odd and a challenge for making brackets. I've found that painting the alternator really helps not make it stand out like a silver tooth. I've gotten used to it. I really like all original, but I also like something that works too.
I’m confused I was told that you didn’t have to replace the coil because it didn’t matter if it was 6 or 12 volts going in it will still only have 4000 coming out, correct me if I’m wrong I just want to know why. And thanks for the video you covered everything I was thinking about.
You can still keep your 6 volt coil however you would need to add an extra resistor to your hot wire (that's the one that screws to the top of the coil) so that your new 12 volt battery doesn't cook your 6 volt coil. I personally like to switch to the 12 volt coil because you can eliminate one part (resistor). Plus it is easier if you use a wiring harness like I did you don't have to rip it apart to put the inline resistor in. Plus if there would be a issue down the road you can eliminate a possible in line resistor problem because there won't be any. Hope this helps!
The instructions say to have the ballast resistor in addition to the resistor that's normally bolted to the top right when looking under the hood. Half of the internet says it's fine to take it off, the other half says you have to have it. I'm not getting a spark and not sure if it's because of that, the fact that my electronic ignition CLEARLY looks used with spots of grease, shorter wires, and some wear, or if there is a completely different electrical problem altogether. I know I get power to my coil, but that's it. This is my second 12 volt coil, too.
I always tell people you need to put a meter on things to see how much resistance you have. A lot of times you have too much resistance with a 12 volt coil and the extra added resistor. You want 3.5 to 4.0 ohms of resistance total with your coil and resistors. I think you have a used/bad module by the sound of it.
@@Jason1Pa When I touch the top where the brown wire goes to either the tab or the spring on the underside, I get about 12 ohms. On my 6 volt coil, out of curiosity, I get about 8. I'm nervous to get another coil and have it end up being my electronic ignition since it looks like a return. I was contemplating getting the other electronic ignition where the coil is cylindrical. Looks interesting, and it's actually for the 8n. There is a plate that goes where the square coil goes, and you screw in this piece that has a piece that sticks up that looks like a spark plug to plug the coil. That way it can be mounted somewhere else and it's less bulky around the belt. I don't know what to do, honestly. lol. If I knew for sure that it was just another bad coil, I'd try to order one more and give it a go. I'm almost positive my wiring is right, too. I was worried the coil burnt out because of the lack of resistor, but lots of people say you don't need it with the 12 volt system. I don't know, this sucks lol. Thank you for your quick response, by the way!
@@ltsallwood if you want send me a quick email to jbeluschok@yahoo.com so I have your email address. I'd even be willing to give you my phone number if you'd want to give me a call,but first off there is no way you can get 12 and 8 ohms of resistance from your 12 and 6 volt coils. 12 volts are around 3 ohms and 6 volts are around 1.5 ohms. For the heck of it put on your 6 volt coil and see if you get any action. It won't hurt it to run it briefly on 12 volts. These square coils are junk these days. I've literally gotten bad ones right out of the box. I have a few coils on hand at all times just incase I have one give out. The kits you are mentioned are a good upgrade if your not worried about original appearance. The regular round automotive coils are far superior then the square coils made for the Ford's.
@@Jason1Pa Okay thank you very much!! I thought about trying the 6 volt for that exact reason! When I can get around to trying it, I will come back and let you know if too much time hasn't went by. lol
What you're doing to that tractor is the best upgrade you could of done to it it's not going to make it maintenance free but it's sure going to help you out of some stuff that is always having to be done to it and its more reliable for sure thanks for sharing it with us the new wiring harness is the best way to go with it expeshley with the newer altanateor charging system and the electronic ignition system the ones that have the problems with the electronic system is because thy had a short some were in there wiring every thing I have made this type conversations to seem to have more power because there working like there supposed to be and I've always gotten better fuel mileage out of them because of the better firing going to the spark plugs I would make a upgrade to the cap and wires while I was going that far with it and regap my spark plugs that old girl hasn't had that good of fire going into them plug's sense it was new run some sea foam through her to clean all that old carbon build up from that old weaker firing system it came with 50 years ago clean them old valves up she will definitely run better for sure that's why I say it's the best fix you could ever do to it
Thanks for watching! There is no need to clean any carbon out. Engine was just rebuilt a few years ago. Put new plugs in it then. I failed to mention or show in the video that I did replace the plug wires to a newer carbon core style then the copper core. Petronix recommends it to eliminate the possibility of a electric pulse that could damage the EI module. Granted that would probably only happen if you had a real hot coil but better to be safe then sorry.
Great video. Very thorough. One question when u said u won’t need the resistor after converting to electric ignition we’re u referring to the resistor little ceramic resistor on side of tractor or one on the dashboard? How did you eliminate it?
You never want to eliminate the original resistor on the dashboard. And if you use a 12 volt coil with a resistance of at least 3.0 ohms you do not need to add one of those white ceramic resistors that people add. If your 12 volt coil is less then 3.0 ohms resistance or you are still using your 6 volt coil then you do.
Excellent video! You may have already covered this, but is a resistor required with a 12 volt system? I currently have a resistor on the ignition wire that goes to the coil. Thank You and keep up the good work!
@TM-hk3ic Thank you for the compliments! So the answer to your question is it depends. You need to see what the resistance of your coil is. These cheap coils made today aren't made very precise. In fact, some 12 volt coils have the same resistance as a 6 volt. I would say it all comes down to quality control and how much of a winding is inside. Anyway, you want at least 3.0 ohms resistance in the coil. Plus I highly recommend using the OEM ballast resistor that is located behind the dash. If your coil is less then 3.0 ohms resistance I would recommend adding that resistor (white ceramic) that you are probably talking about. Even if your coil is at least 3.0 ohms resistance and you are not using the electronic ignition It probably won't hurt anything to leave it there. However too much resistance with the EI ignition will cause it to not function properly. Hope this helps you.
@@Jason1Pa Thank you for the detailed answer. I am currently switching it over to electronic ignition. Where did you buy your unit? I'd like to get he same thing for my 9N. Thanks again!
Hi Jason, I am beginning to install this Pertronix kit in my tractor and your video was very informative, the best on here. The tractor is already 12 volts. I saw the question about the red wire that you terminated on the coil which is on the down-side of the ballast resistor. I saw why you did it but am wondering which way to go. After 3 years any downside to that way to terminate it?
I painfully watched another conversion video before I found yours, ty for a great edited learning video *****
@FTT143 Awesome! I'm glad you enjoyed it!
I had to switch my 2n over to 12 volt because I couldn't keep the generators working also..i done this about 10 years ago and havent had a problem since..just did a tune up with points, condenser. And rotor..ive been running this tractor here on my farm for 35 years. People love to see it in my gardening videos..ty for doing this video..
Rick in NC
Thanks for watching Rick. Yeah dealing with charging issues due to junk cut out relays and junk brushes for the generators anymore got to frustrating and expensive keeping it 6 volt
Again thank you for all the information on the electrical work
Your very welcome William!! I hope the videos can help you with your future project!
Great looking tractor and well cared for. Just performed this same upgrade on a friend's 1946 2N but instead of connecting the red wire of the Pertronix ignition to the coil positive (37:30 in the video) I ran a dedicated wire from the ignition switch to the red wire of the ignition. Reason being, if connected to the coil terminal the voltage to the electronics in the ignition is dropped to 8-9 volts by the ballast resistor. This is less than the intended 12-14 volts normally applied to the electronic ignition during operation. One additional modification was to connect a ground wire from the stud that holds the electronics to the plate to the threaded hole where the condenser once attached to provide the best ground possible. Great work!
I've seen that wiring done before. Reason why I didn't do it was I didn't want a wire on the outside of the new wire harness and I didn't want to open it up to put it in.
Does that mean everything else shares that same low voltage?
Great video!... You can't go wrong when you deal with Derek at Just 8N's! I'm fortunate to live about 20 minutes from his shop and he has been a tremendous help every time I go in!
That's awesome!!! I sure wish I lived near by it would save me a bunch on shipping! 😆 Thanks for watching!
I rebuilt my Ford 8N last year, changed it over to an electronic ignition, thanks for making this amazing education step by step video Jason!! It started on the first crank over!!
Awesome!! So great to hear!! Have fun with the 8N
Jason, I keep coming back to your videos year after year as I do misc maintenance on my ford tractors. Your videos are by far some of the best on these models. Thank you.
That's awesome to hear! Glad they can help you!
The best description of any repair on UA-cam you have.
Thank You!! Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video, helped a lot with my installation. One thing I found out, by accident when looking on an antique tractor forum, is that the Pertronix part needs suppression spark plug wires, not the standard wires with a steel or copper core. I called Pertronix and they confirmed this. It's not mentioned in the instructions. Steiner Tractor has them, so does a company called Brillman. Pertronix says without the suppression wires, the electronic ignition can fail.
You are absolutely correct. At the time of this video I was not aware of this until 4 years later. As you said it's not in the directions. Fortunately. In my opinion the cheap square coils we have available today are pretty weak compared to the round oil filled coils. In my opinion they don't produce enough juice to create the electromagnetic pulse that could destroy the module. I have since replaced all the plug wires on all my Fords just to be safe, but I had several hours on the old copper wires with no issues.
This is a great video on the conversion I have been considering. Great Job Jason!
Terrific video! I just bought a Ford 8N and a Ford 900. The 8N is a six volt and it runs fine - I used it last summer to operate a brush hog. The wiring is a mess on both tractors. The 900 uses a 12 volt but the alternator isn't charging the battery. I appreciate gentlemen like you who show me the right way to perform upgrades that don't take away the history of these historic machines. Thank you, Jason!
Your welcome!! Enjoy those Fords!!
you alternator needs to have about 14 v to charge 12v batter measure batt voltage with it running look for 14 volts if yous ee say 8 volt its a 6 volt alternator
I am not a tractor guy but the information on the electrical system was great. Nice looking tractor.
Thanks Charlie! Thanks for watching!
One of the best informational videos I’ve seen by far.
My dad did that years ago on a ford tractor, convertto 12. Volt, alternator and electronic ignition. But left the starter as a six volt. Everybody said it would burn out . That starter was never changed ,it started so fast and easy.
There is a common myth out there that a 6 volt starter won't work with 12 volts. Obviously that is false. In all honesty 6 volts is harder on the starter and other components. Like you said the 12 volt system starts these engines so fast.
Yes as everyone else said Very good video. I'm like you today I put on and adjusted 3 different sets of points and even a new complete base plate with points set too, for a front distrisbuter and 3 times it ran for one minute and the points would not open and close for more than a minute and it quit running. ....Most New points are junk....I'm going Electronic on this one I have done it in the past and most of the times it's very easy install . When you put your test light on the coil to see if you had power I like to take it one step further and turn the motor over with the test light attached coil to see if the light blinks on and off telling me the points are opening and closing properly....GREAT JOB !!
Thanks Bruce! I normally put a meter on there instead of a test light when I'm actually trouble shooting. A test light will light up with any amount of current but isn't telling you if you got enough.
Again thank you so much for your help I do not know a lot about these older tractors but I am very much wanting to learn. I enjoy doing all the work myself and do not like having to have other people work on my equipment. So your knowledge and the fact that you will take time to help his extraordinary. Thank you very much
Hi, I am back again and having a other look and would like to add a second comment. Always run the earth lead from the battery direct to the engine and then earth the engine to the bodywork, doing it this way gives a perfect power flow to the starter motor and eliminates any loose or dirty connections in the body or frame. I have been a heavy diesel mechanic on trucks and earthmovers for over fifty years so I am talking from experience.
Hi Bob welcome back! You are giving a good tip. However I'm one to try and keep things simple and fallow the book and keep the wiring simple and less of it. I can honestly say I never have had and kind of grounding issues with any of my tractors other then right at the battery posts.
22:00 to 40:00 electronic ignition section. I had installed one on an 8n side distributor with instructions. This helped out Thanks
Just bought a '40 9N with 12V but with points. Gonna get changed ASAP.
Perfectly clear and information filled presentation - thank you, sir!
Joe S (USAF Ret. AK and ID)
i have a 53 dodge trk 6cy uses points no problem if you are having pitting prob on points change dist. condenser may have wrong mfd value or it is def condenser must match coil for max spark very easy to install wrong condenser.
Jason...thanks for posting this video! I kind of stumbled onto your channel, and this conversion really interested me. I don't own a tractor, but enjoy working on vehicles. I wanted to let you know that your presentation was awesome!! Great camera angles so viewers could get a clear view, audio that was clear, and spot-on knowledge of the subject and explanation of the process. Thanks again and keep up the great work!
Thanks Robert I really appreciate the compliments!
By the way...that's a beautiful little tractor. Super job on the restoration! I agree with your mind set on the 12v upgrade. It's one thing to enjoy the "originality" of the tractor, but also practicality plays a big part. I'm glad you use it for what it was meant to do...work!
Very thorough video. Back in the day my Dad had a 9N. He took the front wheels off and replaced them with car tires. It was a lot smoother driving across a plowed field.
Barny Canuck my great grandfather used to do that but it was because he was to cheap to replace the tires with tractor tires but it made it hard to steer.
The bigger tires eat up your steering gears. We have two since new, a 1944 and a 1947. The 1944 had the 4.00-19 replaced with 6.00-16 truck tires then tractor tires in late 1950s. The 1947 still has the 4.00-19s the 1944 has completely worn out 3 sets of steering gears while the 1947 still has the original steering gears. We have now bought new wheels and put the 4.00-19s on the 1944 to much easier steering too.
Great video man; had an 8-N on the farm growing up. As a young boy I remember using it to feeding the cattle in the cold winters we used to have in north Georgia back un the 60’s. Rarely did it ever fail to start even in the coldest winter day and If it didn’t, it was always a battery issue. Just don’t make um like that anymore ! Great content and very informative 👍
Thank You!! Glad you enjoyed!
Hi Jason, just got finished watching this entire tape video rather and I’m glad I did because it’s exactly what I’m gonna be doing to my Ford two and when I get up and work on this spring when it gets up warm up West Virginia but I’m converting it over to 12 V and I’m gonna put headlights tail lights and electronic ignition too so it exactlyshow me how to do all that so good take thank you
Your welcome!! Good luck!
Awesome video. I used your video to do my 12 volt conversion on my 1947 2n. I ordered all my parts through Just8ns and was extremely pleased with the quality of parts. I have my own youtube channel and was going to video my conversion but nothing beats your video. very informative with step by step instructions. Thanks for putting in the work and time in to making this video.
Awesome!! Glad it helped you. Thanks
I subbed to you as well. Looks like some interesting stuff.
Thank you for the sub I really appreciate it.
Appreciate the details and explaining the parts and info on them. Thank you and keep it up
Absolutely excellent conversion, workman ship first class. Any detractors are just jealous numb-sculls.
MIne's a 1950. Redoing it now. Great video. You do excellent work. Thanks for posting .
Thank you!! Thanks for watching
Just watched this video for the second time, my brother has a 58 8n that sat for a while and was already converted to 12v. It won't run when it gets hot, sooo, so this video explains alot !!! I'm an OK mechanic, so this helped me answer all the question- problems that we are having ! Going to redo it your way!! Thanks! You have no idea how simple you made this for me! Good day! Especially about the resistors, figured there was one in the alternator , Going with electronic ignition also!
Generally if they stop running after it gets hot the coil is the culprit.
@@Jason1Pa yes the coil was , hot to the touch. Maybe still 6v ? I'm just going to start from scratch?
@@stevehamman4465 It's fairly normal for a coil to get hot to the touch,but there is such a thing as too much.
A lot of the 12 volt coils being processed don't have enough windings in them. They are equivalent to a 6 volt. It is important to test any coil with a meter to see how much resistance it has. You may need to add a extra inline resistor. Generally a 12 volt coil will have around 3.0 ohms of resistance where as a 6 volt will be around 1.5 ohms. You can use a 6 volt coil with 12 volt battery but you would need to add a extra resistor.
@@Jason1Pa , Thanks ! This isn't a rush job. , it's to hot outside for this old timer! May have to pick your brain later on! Thanks for the information!, Good day!
@@Jason1Pa , when I was younger my father bought a used blue and grey diesel Ford, New Holland engine. 9n ?? 64 something?. 4 speed . It was burning oil , so was going to have it fixed , dude took it apart then said he couldn't find parts for it. This was 40yrs ago, so ?
thank you Jason , I was very anxious to hear it running , I hope you'll give that red a new coat, good luck with this piece of antique its beautiful , I just bought one its an 8N original shape it's already converted to 12 volt I will check the conversion as soon as my 8N will arrive to its new home.
Thanks! Hopefully it will get completely stripped next summer an painted correctly. Good luck with your 8N.
Another "Great" for the video. Nice work explaining the centering of the static timing. When I installed the 1247 electronic ignition on my '50 front mount 8N I think I had to run a separate 12 volt line from the ignition switch with a diode to keep the tractor from running after I shut it off. I did have an after market ignition switch with no accessory terminal though.
traffic czar Thanks! There are many ways these tractors can be wired. I think this is the easiest way to do it.
Thank you I can hardly wait until it gets warm enough so I can go up and start working on the tractor
I can't wait for better weather either. We need to dry out too.
@@Jason1Pa same here
Nice walk though especially on the ignition . We had upgraded the 8n to 12volt long ago but electronic ignition looks like a nice addition...
@gregpratt6926 A lot of people hate it,but a lot of people love it. I currently have 4 tractors that have it and only experienced one failure and it was totally my fault. I didn't have enough resistance. My first tractor to get switched to EI was in 2004 and still going strong. One thing I failed to mention in the video is changing the copper core plug wires
liked your video nice looking tractor. I am doing and convert a 6N 6volt to 12volt and electronic ignition had a water pump go bad and dump all the antifreeze fan hitting shroud and sheared blade off a never got into radiator. I purchased the old tractor last year to handle job I was doing was a hassle to jumper it all the time. I'm a machanic have work on anything that rolled pushed or carried in door so I here you on the quality poor made products out there these day parts quality products use to last years and if they failed your could repair them or purchase a OEM standard repair kit these days its sucks because if you have a part fail you replace it with a worse quality made part that made in china you be lucky if you get a year out of it
A whole lot of great info. Man I love those old tractor's .
Thanks
@@Jason1Pa hay man how's things going? My name is Sean and I would like to get a full list of names of parts, model numbers and such for the parts you used in the video. I have an 8n that I have to replace all wires on and any and all info will help. It runs but takes a battery and jump box because I've been to lazy to replace the dryroted wiring lol. Thanks
This is really helpful. Thanks for posting it.
My pleasure
You make such informative videos. This was helpful in so many ways. Thank you so much!
Thank you so much!!! Glad it could help.
Jason with your help, I just got Rachel running!!! Total rewire and electronic ignition. Never heard it run this good!! Bought 5 years ago finally get some satisfaction!. Driving her (41 ser# 85407) from Brunswick md to martinsburg wv cause I can't get a trailer..... thanks for your videos, hydros is next
That is great to hear!!! I do have hydraulic repair videos if you have not seen them yet.
Good luck on your trip and be safe!! I Googled the distance and it says about 30 miles. I've given one 35 miles on a tractor run. It will feel slow but take your time. I would highly recommend taking another coil with you. These new ones arn't very good. If you have a extra you probably won't need it.
ABSOLUTELY ONE OF THE BEST VIDEOS IVE SEEN.. YOU KNOW YOUR STUFF ! Thank you
I appreciate it Pete. Thanks
Great video. I appreciate your attention to detail and the clarity of the video and explanation of what you’re doing. Thanks!
M M Your welcome!! Glad you found it useful. Stay tuned there will be more trouble shooting and how to videos in the future
'MERICA! awesome video. Really appreciate your knowledge an explanation. I will be buying my first 9N I believe it's a 48. Hopefully my conversion to 12 volts goes smooth
9Ns were made from 1939 to 1942 then came the 2N from 1942 to 1947. Then in mid 1947 the 8N came out and lasted until 1952. Good luck with with your new tractor
There is a time for everything. Parts in a bag should you sell and you don't strike me as a seller. I love the fine detail and effort to keep original as most won't have a clue. I never apologize for making my stuff work for me as its mine and I can throw it off a cliff if I want to. You and I both know the satisfaction of using a tool that means something to the holder
Im the proud owner of a IH 434 witch i got after my dad passed away (it was his) and speaking of coolant i actually cant remember the last time the coolant on it was changed, i think i was 1 or 2 yrs old (im 14 now) so thats 12 yrs of pulling tree stumps out of the ground and driving medium sized row boats to the beach douring hot summerdays (20* plus) and ripping trees out like plants with roots and everything with me at the wheel (i was 10-11 so i remember it like yesterday) and now its sitting in a shed at one of my dads friends (my godfather) where im currently restorating it, i bumped the radiator a few days back and its leaking fluid so its gonna be the dirst time in over a decade its gonna recieve new fluids 💦
It's about time!! 😂 Good luck!
Piney life Suggested your UA-cam channel and I am here for your guidance. Thank you for your knowledge and expertise. And hello, from Romulus, Michigan.
Hello!! Thanks for stopping in and commenting! Hope you find a lot of my Ford videos helpful. Your not too far from the Henry Ford Museum and Village? I've been there a couple times. Along with the Michigan Speedway and Lake Michigan. Very beautiful state!
@Jason1Pa actually at 275/94 in romulus 12 miles w from Henry Ford Greenfield village the family and i go there about 3 times a year The tractor I picked up is about 1947 I cranked it over today just to see if it would it was in gear at moved, did not fire. Wire harness is a mess I would like to get it running. I need to find out if the block is good or not. Do you have a step 1 video? For a known tractor. Meaning I have no idea about this tractor
@@detroitredneckdetroitredne6674 You mean you want to try and figure out what model and year you have?
As always another great video watching you work is fun for me keep up the good work I would love to be there with you
Thanks so much William I really appreciate it!! I'm glad you are enjoying them.
@@Jason1Pa Have a happy Easter and next weekend I’m going to West Virginia to meet up with my ford 2N and my grandson Tucker
@williamgawel8467 Happy Easter to you too! Safe travels! Is your grandson named after the car by chance?
@@Jason1Pa no I don’t know where they got that name but that’s the grandson that I have around now he’s only one that I’ll make contact with so he’s going to get this Tractor when we get done and he’s gonna learn how to work on it so have a good day
Thank you Jason for this very informative video. I converted mine to 12 volt using the kit from just 8n's and also there was a guy on the forum I forget which 1 it was.maybe the 8n forum.( I have a 1948 8n by the way,) who pulled the guts out of his coil put an external coil and then ran the coil wire down through the old cap and soldered the secondary coil wire in place where the coil contacts the dist. cap and that's what I did and it works really good I have an external coil that I got from Napa with an internal resistor 12 volt and it really works good and I just wondered what I'd have to do to put the electronic in there I'm using the points and condenser right now so probably just the same thing I just have to solder or just put the The wire coming up from the electronic ignition system to where I placed the coil wire now and that would probably work ideal.🎚️🇱🇷🇱🇷🇱🇷🙏🚜🚜btw the old 8n whom I named " BUbba-Tom" starts@the first punch of the starter button after it's warmed up.
Glen
Yes,putting a external round coil is a good choice if you want to make your ignition system almost bullet proof. The square coils of today are just junk. I thought about getting the kit from Yesterday's Tractor at some point but for now I just keep a few extra coils on hand for the Fords. Sounds like you have the right idea when it comes to wiring up the EI just one thing I forgot to mention in the video you need to change the copper core spark plug wires to the modern suppression ones. The copper ones can create a electronic pulse that could damage the EI module.
@@Jason1Pa thank you Jason yeah I'm going to order those wires when I ordered the EI so yeah I read that part in there I guess another reader or viewer had seen that and asked about that so that's what I'm going to do I'm going to order it when I order the kit thank you Jason for what you do I'm going to tune into this I'm going to subscribe so you have a good good day bye 😉😉🎚️🇱🇷🇱🇷🙏🚜
@@glennwood1119 Sounds good thanks!
I don’t have a tractor yet but I’m glad I watched this video I’m still in the market for a 9n 8n or a 2n
That's great!!! Hope you can find one soon!!
Good video - and I agree with you about the Pertronix.
i've been using them a long, long time. I think the first one I bought was $12 or $18 ( can't remember now - about 1970). Over the years I've converted 7 or 8 vehicles and never had one go bad. Believe me, the're more than $18 now.
I think the whole kit for the front mount distributors is around $130 give or take. Depends on who you get it from. If down the road you'd need to replace the module only it would be around $60
So cool! It is nice to see someone taking care of a historical farm tractor!
Man am happy you posted this going to change over thanks for the information Jason.
Your welcome! Good luck
Great content! So happy you did this like they really should be done. Made the whole process on conversion seem like a cake walk, even though I'm certain it wasn't as easy as you made it seem. The addition of the Dennis Carpenter headlights also was in keeping with the original, being an actual Ford die that made the shell and rings. The braided wire loom was a logical and perfect departure for your connections. Thank you for your efforts. Know that if I should find myself working on a Ford N-series tractor one day, I'll have the know-how and confidence to tackle the job at hand. Will be staying tuned in for all your content in the future.
Thank you Sir I really appreciate the kind words!
@@Jason1Pa just thrilled to see folks who bother to do things that really lend dependability and stick to the standards that made these tractors the workhorse of most folks farms. It was practical advice with common-sense tips on just how to make it come all together well. Thanks for taking a moment to respond back. Be safe and stay well.
Thank you! This video answered a few questions I’ve trying to find answers for regarding an 8n a buddy of mine has that someone swapped the 12v kit over from another 8n onto this one. There has been more than one issue or I should say conflict with the 3/4 12v kit and 1/4 6v system. 😤
Glad the videos helped some. Good luck!
Liked, subscribed, and did the notifications. Like your videos - very well done. I appreciate you taking the hood off of the tractor so that we could see what is going on. WOW- your tractors are CLEAN! I have a 1952 8N with Sherman transmission
Thank you!! Glad you enjoyed! Hopefully some new videos being posted soon.
Tractors are clean because I restore them and retire them. 😆
I'd like to get a late model 8N with a Sherman someday. Right now I'm looking around for a Sherman for my 48 8N.
@@Jason1Pa I got lucky when I got mine. I still use it for light work on my place Up North, but I also have a small diesel kubota with a front loader and 4wd (and power steering).... Great machine.. already converted to 12 volts, but none of the gauges are hooked up or lights.. I want to put LED replacement lights in it, then do the body work
@@Jason1Pa Now I want to do the electronic ignition upgrade, too. Can definitely see what you mean about the quality of today's Points & Condensors
@@joecnc3341 the side distributor 8Ns are nice to do the electronic ignition on since you have the round coil. You can get a "hot" one and will have enough resistance with out any extra resistors. Just a word of caution get new plug wires. Get new carbon core. Don't use the copper core wires. They can produce a electronic pulse and damage the electronic ignition module.
@@Jason1Pa Thank You- for the advice. I want to keep "Henry" running.
Very helpful video. Excellent detail and rationale for each decision. Am impressed with what these old tractors can do
Thank you Sir!! Thanks for watching!
Great video Jason....I have an 8N and it is in rough shape. Had it converted to 12v and this would have been very doable even for a non mechanic like myself. Thank you.
Thanks Tom 😃
Thank you for explaining so well!.just what I need to get Rachel running well again. Thanks Tom in md
Thanks Tom and hope you get Rachel running good soon!!
thank you Jason, replaced the coil and the 8N runs great.
Dave Gerken Awesome!! That's what I like to hear!!
Im doing my conversion now. I can see how the distributor is designed to only be installed one way but my distributor will go on either way so it definitely could be put on 180 out. To anyone reading this take note of the orientation of the shaft when you take the distributor off just in case.
Wow you must have a lot of wear!! Or someone at one time made the slot in the cam shaft bigger at one time for whatever reason. They should only fit one way.
Hello Jason I have a 8n 12volt with a 12volt coil also along with the white resistor so I don't need that great video
starlin hembree You wouldn't need it if you are using the original style resistor that's on the firewall. Now if your tractor has some other way of being wired and doesn't use the original resistor then chances are you do.
Great video. I've got a 1940 9n and the charging system never worked. I've seen videos and everyone wired up there systems differently and sorta scared me on doing a conversion. So I am ordering both a 12volt charging system and ignition system( always burning up points). Thanks for showing me/us how easy it is to do
Larry Meyers Glad the video helped! Yes there are some scary wiring out there
did you get your tractor wired?
Your very good at teaching a pretend mechanic like me how to do it the right way. Thank you now I'm able to try it myself. At least I've got a video to keep me from messing up. A shad tree mechanic such as myself always ends up with a few extra parts at the end of the job. Lol.
I appreciate the kind words!! I don't consider myself the best teacher in the world but I give it my best. Good luck with your conversion!! And don't worry about those extra parts. Extra parts just shows you made it better!!😂 LOL
Really nice explanation of conversion. Very professional install!
Looking at getting one of the tractors eventually...not sure which one tho!
Thank You and I'm glad you found it enjoyable. I'm sure you will be happy with either of the models.
Great video, I really enjoyed it. Nice touch painting the alternator black. I've been on the fence about converting my 9N to 12V. It currently has a 3rd brush generator and I've had a few issues. I had to replace a cutout because it wouldn't close. I didn't notice for a while so the generator got really hot spinning with no load on it. With the new cutout it's charging but it's overcharging, I can't get it to charge any less than 9 amps on its lowest setting so I'm guessing it's only a matter of time before it needs the generator rebuilt.
Dave M Thanks I'm glad you enjoyed it. I can assure you at 9 amps you will cook that generator in a short amount of time. I generally don't like to go over 3 amps
I was afraid of that. Is this the kit that you used from just8N's - www.just8ns.com/8NE10300ALTC-Years-1939-50-12V-Conversion-Kit-Front-Mount-Dist? I like the alternator bracket you used.
Dave M Yes it is
Thanks Jason, I may have to come over to the 12V side.
12 Volt system is the only way to go on those tractors, we had a 8N the whole time I was growing up and that thing would barely start unless we had a brand new battery in it, we replaced batteries generators wiring everything and it never was dependable and I finally converted it over to 12 volt and just left the 6 volt starter in it and from that day on it started perfect every time and I never did have to change that starter, just a quick bump on the starter button and it was running every time, 12 Volt is the only way to go, hands down.
Especially now with the junk electrical parts. As I stated in the video I NEVER had a problem with starting or even charging for YEARS. The last 10 years have been a nightmare. Thanks for watching!
Could you make a short video on how you routed the wiring for your lights. Did you include the wire for the headlights in the harness you zip tied to the spark plug tubing? My 41 9n has headlights but no harness. I want to add rear lights just like yours. I'm impressed with your workmanship.
I'm sorry I missed your question. I should do a video on the lights. That question comes up. Since the lights were a add on and never from the factory you can pretty much do it how you want. Really no right or wrong way.
Yes I just zip tied to the spark plug tube.
Hi Jason, I watched a few of your great videos on my smart TV. I also watch any other videos on the 9N, 2N, and 8N. I have a 1946 2N since about the middle of the 1960s. It came from a farm in South Holland, IL for the price of $300.00. My dad bought it for our 5 acres. We used it to remove snow, plow a garden, pull a trailer, dig post holes, and mow with a mott mower. Also used it to pull out bushes, small tree stumps, and broken fence posts. I always wondered if the 2N I have came from the factory all grey? Also did it come from the factory with a solution in the tires for weight? I won't change to the 12 volt electronic ignition because of the EMP threat. I would like to get different tires for the front end as the tires on it are shaped funny. I was told the front tires are for onion fields. The tires are skinny round with a center protruding lip. When plowing it is hard to hold the steering wheel steady with these kind of tires. I always wished my dad would have got a later model 8N with the four speed high low range transmission. I have kept the tractor under a roof since owning it. I have the hood off to replace the front axle bushing. I also want to fix the leak down hydraulic system. I believe 90 weight gear lube is recommended for the trans and hydraulic system. For awhile I was using 10 weight hydraulic oil as I didn't know any better. I never see a 2N with the coil spring under the seat. My coil spring broke. I believe the coil spring seat is an upgrade from the curved spring seat. It also has a shock absorber mounted to the seat. On the hood grill it says Ford Ferguson system I believe. I guess that was a hand shake agreement and then it turned ugly when Ferguson saw the money he was loosing. A local Ford Implement dealer replaced the riveted rear axle hubs with bolts and castle nuts locked down with cotter pins. If the Ferguson system is working properly while plowing the tractor's front end is not suppose to climb up and flip over killing the driver. How do I know if this Ferguson System is working properly? Thanks for your videos. Thanks Fred Z Orland Park, IL
Hi Greg! I have a 46 2N as well. My parents bought it back in early 70s I'll try to answer all your questions
Yes your tractor would of been all gray. All 9N and 2Ns were all gray
No liked in the tires did not come from the factory.
You don't need to worry about EMP if you change your plug wires to a non copper core.
It sounds like the seat you have was a aftermarket seat that was offered.
To know if your lift system is working is simple. If it goes up and can hold weight even after you turn the PTO off your good. Also if it goes down as well. There is no draft control or position control like the 8Ns have.
If you have anymore questions feel free to send me a email at jbeluschok@yahoo.com
Good stuff. Will be using your knowledge on my ‘49 8n. Thank you!👍
Awesome! Good luck and thanks for watching!
Great video Jason so many use full tips in here dave from Ireland
david o leary Glad you enjoyed it Dave!
Outstanding video! Tractor looks great 👍
Farmall Fanatic Thanks Farmall Fanatic!! Glad you enjoyed it
Thank you for sharing your great video, I found it to be very informative.
Thanks again!
I appreciate it 😁 Thanks for watching
Great video thank you for sharing, i just bought 52' 8n an find this super helpful. Thanks again and beautiful work!
A 52 8N has a total different design. That would be a side distributor not a front mount. Also the alternator is on the left hand side. Thanks for watching
One big problem with using the 6 volt coil on a 12 volt alternator is that you have reversed polarity on your spark plugs. With reversed polarity, the spark jumps from the ground electrode to the hot electrode. The problem with that spark would rather jump from a hot surface to a colder surface. Making a hard starting hot tractor. I know, my grandpa & my uncle had 8, 9N, 2N, & 8N. Some 6 volt, some 12 volt with an alternator, some 12 volt with a battery charger.
The way that you can check your spark plug polarity is, hold the spark plug terminal away from the plug, insert a sharp pencil in the gap. If the flare is on the spark plug side of the pencil, excellent! NOTE: I like to put a rubber replacement eraser on the pencil, if you touch the metal band, you will get shocked!
Look in the tune up section of an old Motor’s Manual. Either the blue car edition or the green truck & pickup edition.
Good luck. Looking good.
Hello from north east Montana.
10 miles from the Canadian border.
You are correct. It's interesting though that in a lot of cases I've talked to people that switched to 12 volt coils they wouldn't hold up as long. Throw a 6 volt with a added resistor and the 6 volt coil lasts. Odd. I'm assuming it's either luck or the 12 volts are just cheaper made. I currently have one Ford that's 12 volt with a 6 volt coil and it starts fine and runs fine. If it ain't broke I guess don't fix it. 😆 Thanks for reply and thanks for watching!
@@Jason1Pa I wonder if with the Ignitior Electronic Ignition conversion kit that you might have enough cranking spark to over come the reverse polarity. We put a 12 volt alternator on our NAA so that we could run the 12 volt winch on the PTO grain auger. At that time, about 1992, I had to make our kit, and build up an alternator. If you take one off of a 83 to 86 Buick Electra with the Olds 307”Y” motor. The alternator charges 25 amps at engine idle. 65 amps at full throttle. That alternator works great on Farmall M, SMTA, 400, 450, 706 gas or diesel, 806 gas or diesel. This alternator also solves the IHC 86 series where you can not run the A/C on high for very long, otherwise you will have a low enough battery that it may not start.
Hello from north east Montana.
10 miles from the Canadian border.
Boy I really know what you mean about the low quality import parts. It sure gets aggravating messing with that stuff. Especially when it goes down at the worst possible time. I had no idea electronic ignition was available, thats good to know, thanks :)
Gunters Garage The struggle it real man. LOL I am a 6 volt guy and took me years to convert but I am tired of breaking down. You'd be surprised you can get electronic ignition for just about everything these days.
I know what you mean. I like 6 volt and points for the cool factor. People are always “oh wow your still running 6v & points”. Its funny how some folks think its a big deal. If you can get good parts everthing works fine. Key word good parts, lol.
Very good job look very nice are used to drive one of them he has a go on a big vegetable farm we have five or six of them
Jason you were talking about how many generators you went through... we had a 9N and it would Cook the coil at least once a year... That was frustrating.
I'm assuming they are the square front mount distributor kind? Yeah they are junk. I get 1 to 2 years out of one. I always have a few on stock ready to go if I need one. There is away to modify the front distributor and put the regular round automotive coil on them. I haven't had the nerve to do it yet though.
Yes... the square front mount.
Thanks great video
Great video, you explained a lot,and I learned a lot as well so thanks.
Ken Harvey Your welcome Ken glad you got something out of it.
Really an awesome video, I can't say enough about it !
Thanks Stephen!! Glad you liked it.
Great video , you did not mention polarity , did you leave it positive ground with the electronic ignition ?
Nice neat job there Jason! I just got a 53 Jubilee I’d like to switch over to 12 volt and also the Petronius ignition system. Would send me the links for your suppliers and also the spark gap tester. I’d really appreciate a reliable supplier for this stuff. Thanks for your help. I’m a subscriber so I’m looking forward for more of your videos.
Hi George! Any of my videos about Ford tractors I use parts from either Just8ns. com or Dennis Carpenter.
I believe I got my spark tester at Advance Auto Parts years ago.
I don't recall how much I payed but it wasn't that much. I'm sure you can shop around other places. I do like this style better then most but there are all kinds of spark testers out there.
shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/lisle-coil-on-plug-spark-tester-20700/11148098-P?searchTerm=spark+tester
Jason... great video... Can you make a video explaining the wiring throughout these tractors? I love how you give an understanding of all the critical features..
That's funny that you mentioned that because I've been thinking about doing a video like that.
Fantastic... My tractor is stilla 6 volt with stuff on it that I'm not sure what it is! The layout of the wiring is the part I'm trying to understand! What wire goes where and why! Thank you for the detail you share!
@@barbschlegel3680 What tractor do you have? 9N 2N 8N?
Google JMOR wiring diagram for 6 volt Ford then the model number. They are pretty easy to fallow wiring diagram.
Jason... I'm not sure.. The tractor was repainted and you can't make out the model number what so ever....I think maybe an 8N... All I know is that it's a 42 Ford!
@@barbschlegel3680 if it's a 42 it's not a 8n. Either a 9N or 2N if you'd like you can email me at jbeluschok@yahoo.com and I can see if I can help you out especially if you can send a picture or 2
A good place to buy you battery terminals is napa. Solder on terminals. Best way in my opinion to make your own. About the same price too.
I learn from my lap to always use distilled water in your radiator, cause regular tap water has a lot of junk that attacks the cylinder walls.
Like minerals,chlorine and other things if It's well or city water.
Just thought you'd like to know.
That is correct! One good thing with today is pre mixed 50/50 coolant is pretty much the norm now so you don't even have to worry about mixing.
Thanks Jason. I watched your other 2N videos as well. These will be extremely helpful to me when I tackle my 2N.
Awesome!! Thanks for watching!!
One of our old Olivers came with an eight volt system. Ever try and find an eight volt battery? Most were converted to 12 volts,and the starters held up under the increased voltage.
8 volt batteries have some challenges with them. First if you just drop it in and expect the 6 volt system to charge it you will be disappointed because they won't. You need to tweak the voltage regulator to be compatible with the 6 volt generator. Your average Joe (including myself) don't understand how that is done. Most of the old generator repair places can do it for you BUT they are almost off the face of this earth. It's a lost art.
On this particular tractor there is no voltage regulator. They used a simple cut out relay and there is no adjustment that can be done. One would think you can turn up the generator to produce more juice but the end result would be a burnt up generator.
Also personally I like to put all my batteries on battery maintainers or a charger when needed. You will not find a charger for a 8 volt battery.
Great video, I like your clean look. You brought up the ballast resister and alternator, but made no mention of the starter. must it be replaced with the 12 v conversion?
No the starter is fine being 6 volt. Unless you'd really set there and crank and crank and crank on it there won't be a problem. There are some places that can change the field coils to make the starter a 12 volt starter. If something would ever go wrong with any of my starters I'd get a 12 volt starter at that time.
Thanks for watching!
what if engine camshaft was moved during carbon cleaning during head gasket replacement?can it be 180 out of time?or as you said" if dist dog goes in correctly you are timed correctly?Also is 9n HEI kit # different from side mount distributor?thanks.great videos
Yes the kits are different. The front mount distributor has a plate that comes with it. The side distributor just requires a module.
Your distributor will only go on one way. You could turn the engine over until your blue in the face then put the distributor in where it fits flush on the cover and you are set. Just make sure your points are set correctly and the distributor is statically timed first if you ever had it apart for repair.
Great video. I’m a pretty big fan of antique tractors.especially the ford n models.
I just subscribed
Awesome Thanks!!
What ohm coil and which wiring diagram did you use for rest of tractor? I'm very frustrated with my points and am just going to strip it all off and reinstall all new.
If you have a 12 volt system you want a coil with 3.0 ohms. If lower you'll want to add a extra resistor. Google JMAR wiring diagram for your particular model and set up. What issues are you having with the points. EI isn't always going to solve your problem especially if the distributer bushings are worn.
Great video! our 8N is now 12 volt, electronic ignition is in, power to coil, no spark. New cap, wires, rotor and 12volt coil. Any suggestions?
@BobThielen-t9p Well the frustration with new electric parts can be irritating. I've had more than one coil come out of the box and not work so that's a possibility. Unfortunately the EI modules are voltage sensitive. A little too much or too little and they won't work. Are you using the OEM resistor on the dash? Did you check the resistance on the new coil?
I saw a ad a few years ago about a company that converts 6 volt Ford generators into 12 volt alternators thus retaining the original look.
Great video! It was very well done.
I bought an 8n at an auction for 400 the rebuilt the motor new everything and could not get it to run and they said that they thought the cam gear broke or came off or it was out of time. I got it home took the hood of anticipating on taking it apart. I put a battery in it turned it over a few times and all it did was back fire through intake and couple time through exhaust looked at plug wires they were correct then I popped the cap and realized it had electronic ignition in it got looking at the wires out of the distributor which they did a really nice job putting it all in nice cloth wire loom and everything but they had the red lead on the neg side of coil and black on the pos side I switched them around and still did the same thing I played with it a little and then called pertronix they told me it was probably junk but how to check it and I ended up ordering other ignition got it in a couple days put it in and tractor fired right up so I got a rebuilt 8n with no hours on it for a little over 500 with the cost of buying the tractor and the cost of the new ignition
Awesome story!! Just a heads up. Replace your plug wires if they are copper core. They create a electronic pulse that can damage the module. Also check your coil to see how much resistance it has. A lot of these 12 volt coils only have 1.5 ohms of resistance. That's not good. It needs to be around 2.5 or more. If it's low you will need to add a extra resistor or you'll be burning up coils and Petronix modules.
I have the full pertronix ignition system including the coil and using 8mm plug wire because that is what the customer service guy from pertronix recomended.
Jason - great video, but I have a challenge. 8N is now 12v. Electronic ignition is installed. Power is at the coil - no spark. New coil, cap rotor and wires. Any suggestions?
Hey Jason, superb job.
One question, just to keep the "vintage " appearance.
Can be built a 12V alternator in the shell of a Dynamo or Generator?
I looked into this a lot.Even spoke to a company in California that does 12 volt alternator conversions to antique cars. Generally tractor generator shells are too small to have it converted to a 12 volt alternator. They can do this to car ones but they are much larger in size. Using a car one for these tractors would probably look even more odd and a challenge for making brackets. I've found that painting the alternator really helps not make it stand out like a silver tooth. I've gotten used to it. I really like all original, but I also like something that works too.
Great looking tractor and great job God bless you
Thanks
I’m confused I was told that you didn’t have to replace the coil because it didn’t matter if it was 6 or 12 volts going in it will still only have 4000 coming out, correct me if I’m wrong I just want to know why. And thanks for the video you covered everything I was thinking about.
You can still keep your 6 volt coil however you would need to add an extra resistor to your hot wire (that's the one that screws to the top of the coil) so that your new 12 volt battery doesn't cook your 6 volt coil. I personally like to switch to the 12 volt coil because you can eliminate one part (resistor). Plus it is easier if you use a wiring harness like I did you don't have to rip it apart to put the inline resistor in. Plus if there would be a issue down the road you can eliminate a possible in line resistor problem because there won't be any. Hope this helps!
The instructions say to have the ballast resistor in addition to the resistor that's normally bolted to the top right when looking under the hood. Half of the internet says it's fine to take it off, the other half says you have to have it. I'm not getting a spark and not sure if it's because of that, the fact that my electronic ignition CLEARLY looks used with spots of grease, shorter wires, and some wear, or if there is a completely different electrical problem altogether. I know I get power to my coil, but that's it. This is my second 12 volt coil, too.
I always tell people you need to put a meter on things to see how much resistance you have. A lot of times you have too much resistance with a 12 volt coil and the extra added resistor. You want 3.5 to 4.0 ohms of resistance total with your coil and resistors.
I think you have a used/bad module by the sound of it.
@@Jason1Pa When I touch the top where the brown wire goes to either the tab or the spring on the underside, I get about 12 ohms. On my 6 volt coil, out of curiosity, I get about 8. I'm nervous to get another coil and have it end up being my electronic ignition since it looks like a return. I was contemplating getting the other electronic ignition where the coil is cylindrical. Looks interesting, and it's actually for the 8n. There is a plate that goes where the square coil goes, and you screw in this piece that has a piece that sticks up that looks like a spark plug to plug the coil. That way it can be mounted somewhere else and it's less bulky around the belt. I don't know what to do, honestly. lol. If I knew for sure that it was just another bad coil, I'd try to order one more and give it a go. I'm almost positive my wiring is right, too. I was worried the coil burnt out because of the lack of resistor, but lots of people say you don't need it with the 12 volt system. I don't know, this sucks lol. Thank you for your quick response, by the way!
@@ltsallwood if you want send me a quick email to jbeluschok@yahoo.com so I have your email address. I'd even be willing to give you my phone number if you'd want to give me a call,but first off there is no way you can get 12 and 8 ohms of resistance from your 12 and 6 volt coils. 12 volts are around 3 ohms and 6 volts are around 1.5 ohms. For the heck of it put on your 6 volt coil and see if you get any action. It won't hurt it to run it briefly on 12 volts.
These square coils are junk these days. I've literally gotten bad ones right out of the box. I have a few coils on hand at all times just incase I have one give out.
The kits you are mentioned are a good upgrade if your not worried about original appearance. The regular round automotive coils are far superior then the square coils made for the Ford's.
@@Jason1Pa Okay thank you very much!! I thought about trying the 6 volt for that exact reason! When I can get around to trying it, I will come back and let you know if too much time hasn't went by. lol
@@ltsallwood Sounds good. Let me know. Good luck but I'm willing to bet your module is no good. Someone probably burnt it up and sent it back.
What you're doing to that tractor is the best upgrade you could of done to it it's not going to make it maintenance free but it's sure going to help you out of some stuff that is always having to be done to it and its more reliable for sure thanks for sharing it with us the new wiring harness is the best way to go with it expeshley with the newer altanateor charging system and the electronic ignition system the ones that have the problems with the electronic system is because thy had a short some were in there wiring every thing I have made this type conversations to seem to have more power because there working like there supposed to be and I've always gotten better fuel mileage out of them because of the better firing going to the spark plugs I would make a upgrade to the cap and wires while I was going that far with it and regap my spark plugs that old girl hasn't had that good of fire going into them plug's sense it was new run some sea foam through her to clean all that old carbon build up from that old weaker firing system it came with 50 years ago clean them old valves up she will definitely run better for sure that's why I say it's the best fix you could ever do to it
Thanks for watching! There is no need to clean any carbon out. Engine was just rebuilt a few years ago. Put new plugs in it then. I failed to mention or show in the video that I did replace the plug wires to a newer carbon core style then the copper core. Petronix recommends it to eliminate the possibility of a electric pulse that could damage the EI module. Granted that would probably only happen if you had a real hot coil but better to be safe then sorry.
Great video. Very thorough. One question when u said u won’t need the resistor after converting to electric ignition we’re u referring to the resistor little ceramic resistor on side of tractor or one on the dashboard? How did you eliminate it?
You never want to eliminate the original resistor on the dashboard. And if you use a 12 volt coil with a resistance of at least 3.0 ohms you do not need to add one of those white ceramic resistors that people add. If your 12 volt coil is less then 3.0 ohms resistance or you are still using your 6 volt coil then you do.
Excellent video! You may have already covered this, but is a resistor required with a 12 volt system? I currently have a resistor on the ignition wire that goes to the coil. Thank You and keep up the good work!
@TM-hk3ic Thank you for the compliments! So the answer to your question is it depends. You need to see what the resistance of your coil is. These cheap coils made today aren't made very precise. In fact, some 12 volt coils have the same resistance as a 6 volt. I would say it all comes down to quality control and how much of a winding is inside. Anyway, you want at least 3.0 ohms resistance in the coil. Plus I highly recommend using the OEM ballast resistor that is located behind the dash. If your coil is less then 3.0 ohms resistance I would recommend adding that resistor (white ceramic) that you are probably talking about. Even if your coil is at least 3.0 ohms resistance and you are not using the electronic ignition It probably won't hurt anything to leave it there. However too much resistance with the EI ignition will cause it to not function properly. Hope this helps you.
@@Jason1Pa Thank you for the detailed answer. I am currently switching it over to electronic ignition. Where did you buy your unit? I'd like to get he same thing for my 9N.
Thanks again!
Hi Jason, I am beginning to install this Pertronix kit in my tractor and your video was very informative, the best on here. The tractor is already 12 volts. I saw the question about the red wire that you terminated on the coil which is on the down-side of the ballast resistor. I saw why you did it but am wondering which way to go. After 3 years any downside to that way to terminate it?
Nope! I have 3 Ford's running on Petronix this way and rack up several hours a year on them. No issues
@@Jason1Pa Thanks, I think I will go this way.