I'm looking to get into peacocks. Thanks for the info! I am currently rolling with a 75g mbuna mixed gender tank, so aggression was super high until I added more. I'm up to about 30 - mbuna's are a little smaller. An all male tank is 100% easier, but if you get unsexed juveniles, either get rid of the females, or know you may need to overstock quite a bit if things start getting out of hand. Thought I'd share this since gender is not a factor you mentioned. Thanks again, good luck with the channel!
I get that for sure. You're right, I mentioned that this is for show tanks, which are all male. I was focusing more on stocking levels. I will address aggression only in another video that will explore gender in the tank.
@@Byron4343 I have all peacocks and haps, except for the one yellow lab I bought from a guy who already had him with peas and haps. BTW, don't ever assume it will be okay because it was okay in someone else's tank. I took a tropheus as well from this guy, and he was a spawn of Satan. Looked innocent, but pecked at the eyes of several of my boys before I excommunicated him.
@@dustinmatlock a tropheus! That’s what I had once. I’m pretty sure he is the little devil who took out the eyes in several of my haps and peacocks. I hope yours isn’t demon possessed like mine was 👹
Thanks! That sounds like a great tank! Those are called Imagitarium Copper Pipes -- Petco. They don't presently make them, unfortunately. My guys love them!
Great looking tank How long have you had your fish? I just started with peacocks in my 90 gal 14 fish all peacocks at 2.5 to 3 inches how fast to they grow and color up?
Thank you, ManSa! Don't you just love your fish? My oldest fish were delivered to me a year ago last November. They do grow and color up at different rates, so it is hard to say. Some of mine were colored up at 3". Others, like my hawk, were about 5" when they started to color up. He is 6" now and still not fully colored. The sub dominant ones will look drab compared to your dominant boys too.
Why would you be doing three water changes a week? I have a 75 with 25 cichlids in it. I do one water change a week. The tank grows zero algae and is crystal clear. I feed these fish and all my fish twice daily. On top of that I have zero aggression. The tank stays so clean because of my filtration and my maintenance and zero aggression because I feed my fish properly. These fish are territorial. It's not just there own space and females. It's also resources. Meaning food. Most people feed once a day with fasting days here and there. Because they worry about nitrates and bloat. If you feed the right food you don't have to worry about bloat. The nitrates can be solved with anoxic filtration and for me large once a week water change. I use both. I do 80% water changes weekly on all my tanks. Nitrate never goes over 20ppm. I have a 110 gallon with 46 adult cichlids and zero algae, low nitrates. Another thing to consider and you never hear about this is your lights. The bright lights will cause aggression especially if you have red in your lights. If you have an adjustable light turn the red way down or off. Best thing you can do for aggression is feed your fish twice daily everyday. I recommend Ron's Cichlid Food. It's the best I've found. Zero fillers and don't bloat your fish. If your feeding the off the shelf foods from say petsmart you will bloat your fish feeding twice a day. Even once a day it can bloat your fish. For some reason they bloat victorians the worst.
@@CichlidCharmer I like to think I do. I struggled like most in the beginning but like most people I listened to UA-cam on how to go about an aquarium. The amount of not only bad but completely false info on here is ridiculous. It cost people fish and gets people to buy unnecessary products. The 75 gallon I mentioned before hasn't had the glass cleaned in 10 months. Looks like it was cleaned this morning. No chemicals, snails, shrimp, plecko, ect... all I do is water change and vacuum 100% of the substrate weekly and clean the filters when needed. Vacuuming the substrate and not using a deep substrate is crucial. Bad things happen in deep substrate. UA-cam will tell you the opposite. It needs to be oxygenated all the way to the bottom. If not it will go Anaerobic and can also ferment. Anaerobic conditions in hit substrate don't convert nitrate to nitrogen. It covers nitrate to nitrite and then to ammonia. This is why people can't get rid of algae. There substrate is literally a food factory for it.
Hi Dave, you have a great looking tank. I have a 70 gallon and going to upgrade 150 gallon soon. I would like to ask you, what is your aquarium dimensions and what type of lightning are you using, also what kind of substrad you have in here ?
That will be an awesome upgrade! My 75 is 48x18x21". My 240 is 96x24x24". The lighting in this video is the Fluval Aquasky. I use the Fluval Sea/Marine on my 240. My substrate for ACs is Caribsea aragonite to keep the ph up high. Please post a pic of tour 75 and then your 150 if you have a chance!
In the African Vicki’s tank I had as soon as I seen any aggression I would rearrange the tank eventually they did give up and more or less you could make it into what you want instead of what they want 😂
@@stevelopynski yes. I painted my 75. It took about four coats and took a lot longer than the vinyl took. Plus if you change your mind, you just peel it off!
@@CichlidCharmer how many peacocks and haps do you reccomend for a 75 gallon? Also, Have you heard of anyone successful combining discus with peacocks? Very unusual i know!
@@stevelopynski check this out: Do YOU Have TOO MANY? | Stocking Guide ua-cam.com/video/r2rlEfM39x4/v-deo.html I haven’t heard of anyone doing that, but if the peacocks didn’t outright kill them, I think they would be starved and stressed and eventually die. Plus they need very acidic water, the opposite of Africans. I wouldn’t do it.
I personally wouldn’t go larger than 6”, and they would need to be peaceful or I would just keep one or a mating pair of aggressive ones. Not enough room to get away from a crazed American. If I had a Salvini for instance, only one fish. Also keep in mind the height of the fish anal fin to dorsal.
Hi there. If you add nine all at once, the only problem I see is that you will probably crash your cycle unless you add enough seeded filter media. You will need to add some bacteria in a bottle, which might keep your tank cycled without the extra filter media, but either way, check your ammonia level every day for several days. Any sign of ammonia and dose Seachem Prime for ammonia. Does that make sense?
I change it bi monthly for 12 Cichlids. High powered filter that can handle twice the current tank capacity of 300L. With heavy biological media and bio balls filled with media in tank.
@@CichlidCharmer Not, When you have a limited supply of good fresh water. For some Cichlids, like bichardi, it doesn't seem to work out well though. Ammonia, and nitrite levels are in control except for occasional spike in nitrate.
That should be a cool tank! I really don't have any experience with mbuna, except for Ray, my solo yellow lab in with my peas and haps. I am sure it's a pretty high number, but I can't say for sure.
I've always tried to stick to one inch of fish per gallon and it has always worked well for me. Obviously you have to take into consideration their full size growth but I have a heavily planted tank currently so I overstocked mine beyond my typical standard
You didn't mention anything about what usually works better (probably like your tank) which is an all-male tank with different color variations and species. Have more of the same fish or females even can make a tank more aggressive.
The title of the video eliminates the option of females in the tank. I have spoken about conspecific aggression in my videos, but I don’t remember if I did in this one. I’ve done other videos that deal with aggression that cover much more than this video does.
1.5 inches is pretty small... You could put them in a grow out tank until they are 2.5 to 3" and then add them to the other guys' tank. If it were me however, I would just add them to the tank now, and watch them very frequently. If there is aggression then take them out. Sometimes doing the add during a water change helps, but I've had success without doing one. Make sure to feed them during the addition.
Zero peacocks or haps in a 55 unless it’s just a growout tank for juvies. They need more room than that size tank can offer. I do have a more recent updated video about stocking these fish if you go to my channel page.
That is sad. They can definitely be killers. That's why it is so great when you get a good mix, but things can still go south. I hope they're doing well now!
@@CichlidCharmer since then I put aumbee in there green terror golden palm, and others African cichlids. Plus they have been breeding in the 150gal too. Some fry have been coming out in the past few months. Umber does not eat the fry . I feed pellets and beef hearts and krill.
@@miltonemahan6276 wow quite an unusual mix! Be careful, that green terror could RIP those ACs apart. Also the beef heart tends to give ACs Malawi bloat. You should post a pic of your 150 here!
@@CichlidCharmer the green terror is a very slow grower. The umbee is female. What I need to do is be careful of not putting my small 4inch male dovii in the 150 gal .
@@CichlidCharmer Male only tanks are not a good idea to my opinion. Keep 3 or 4 couples or trios, only, and let them have sex and breed. It's much more fun for them, but also for us.
All my males literally started fighting. my water is consistently at 76-78 degrees. It started out of NOWHERE. I've literally had to 2 out because they take the tail off off of all my others. I put the good ones back but I've got w EVIL cichlids on my tank. I think they started fighting themselves then started going after All the others because they were just there as well. I'm actually beyond annoyed. I'll never own African cichlids again. Worst fish I've ever owned. I'd rather have a tank of guppies then go through this BS again.
Sorry to hear about your horrible experience with the Africans. In many situations they just don’t make good aquarium fish. There is plenty of room to swim away from nut jobs in Lake Malawi. Not so in an aquarium
That sucks mate. Sometimes it just doesn't work. I've kept some of the most aggressive and docile/dwarf species together and as long as I broke line of sight well, over filtered (per usual) & added enough fish at a time being the key for my 55g/75. 15-20 smaller mbuna or as a grower tank has always worked fine with the exception of the dom male that won't accept he's won. Nothing beats a chill alpha, it's a God send, you can get away with anything. But overstocking for aggression mitigation is sometimes the only way to go with a 55-75g. Some fish just have to go, I've had a lab that had no chill, yet Johannis, Jenyis, Auratus, Zebras, Hongis, Cobalts, Labs, Demasoni, Acei, all kinds of random stuff my friend didn't end up keeping.This was a dozen yrs or so ago, some of these fish were exotic for their time, so I did whatever I could, & they even made it through Katrina. I'll also freely admit had the alpha in this situation been another fish, I might not have been able to keep such a setup for X years in a 55g, it truly depends. Always had higher water temps as well, as again back then a Hongi, Demasoni etc weren't common or cheap. Chance favors the prepared, at a moment's notice w/ a nursery/fry tank of screen set up, change of decor, addition of new contenders of at least equal size. If $ is an issue I've successfully used schools of tiger barbs as a kid (6-9 small schooling) anything can theoretically work, but do your research. I'd do this to hold me down long enough to get the community size high enough without males killing females too young to produce, name it. Definitely stay away from all Cichlids for that matter if you're not willing to manage the conditions for success though. Ideally this could and should have been preventable, (larger more docile "new alpha" sometimes works, sometimes those fish will simply not live together without 15 others interrupting that blood fued. The signs are always there though, even as a child I knew when things were getting out of hand. Hope you try again sometime with some more tame breeds, maybe another 100lb of stone, & perhaps more fish that can hold their own. Nothing beats paying for your next 125g, etc with fry over the yrs from your LFS. Or shrimp apparently...God bless.
@@CichlidCharmer75-90% user error with the amount of knowledge available these days. Dial up kid, snobby forum types, Labs were exotic, had it not been for breeding Convicts I'd had gone a long time thinking only salt was the way to go. No way, despite the advances since Ive been away a decade, coral is as coral does man. But one day perhaps. Huge market opportunity in my area actually but at my age - Capital after damn govt policies man, never again. Subbed.
That's a beautiful tank. I have a 75 gallon as well but now I want a 125 gallon.
Amazing Tank! Water looks Crystal clear. Fish looks super healthy. Awesome job!
Thank you!
The hyperactivity following water changes, I believe, is because it simulates rainfall in their native environment that stimulates the urge to mate
Your so passionate and love your fish it’s really good to see
Thank you so much!
Very nice video I appreciate the info I can actually sleep in peace tonight lol
Oh I wouldn’t sleep if I were you. Just keep watching those cichlids 😂
I'm looking to get into peacocks. Thanks for the info! I am currently rolling with a 75g mbuna mixed gender tank, so aggression was super high until I added more. I'm up to about 30 - mbuna's are a little smaller. An all male tank is 100% easier, but if you get unsexed juveniles, either get rid of the females, or know you may need to overstock quite a bit if things start getting out of hand. Thought I'd share this since gender is not a factor you mentioned. Thanks again, good luck with the channel!
I get that for sure. You're right, I mentioned that this is for show tanks, which are all male. I was focusing more on stocking levels. I will address aggression only in another video that will explore gender in the tank.
@@CichlidCharmer have you mixed all three types of African cichlids in one tank?
@@Byron4343 I have all peacocks and haps, except for the one yellow lab I bought from a guy who already had him with peas and haps. BTW, don't ever assume it will be okay because it was okay in someone else's tank. I took a tropheus as well from this guy, and he was a spawn of Satan. Looked innocent, but pecked at the eyes of several of my boys before I excommunicated him.
@@CichlidCharmer sounds like me I also have one lab and a tropheus... with peacocks
@@dustinmatlock a tropheus! That’s what I had once. I’m pretty sure he is the little devil who took out the eyes in several of my haps and peacocks. I hope yours isn’t demon possessed like mine was 👹
Nice bit of info bud and a great setup you have well done.
Great Video. I have a 360 gallon acrylic peacock and hap tank. Where did you find those pipes. They are a nice size for the fish to go into.
Thanks! That sounds like a great tank! Those are called Imagitarium Copper Pipes -- Petco. They don't presently make them, unfortunately. My guys love them!
@@CichlidCharmer thank you 👍
Great looking tank How long have you had your fish? I just started with peacocks in my 90 gal 14 fish all peacocks at 2.5 to 3 inches how fast to they grow and color up?
Thank you, ManSa! Don't you just love your fish? My oldest fish were delivered to me a year ago last November. They do grow and color up at different rates, so it is hard to say. Some of mine were colored up at 3". Others, like my hawk, were about 5" when they started to color up. He is 6" now and still not fully colored. The sub dominant ones will look drab compared to your dominant boys too.
Awesome video! What light do you use?
I use a Fluval Aquasky on my 75g, but my 240 I use a Fluval Sea Marine 3.0 4' and a 2'. Thanks for watching!
Your Video Was Helpful.. I Also Have African cichlids.. Had Same Problem In The Past.. I've Watched Video's On UA-cam.. In All Thank You.. 🐟🐠
Thanks for the feedback!
Why would you be doing three water changes a week? I have a 75 with 25 cichlids in it. I do one water change a week. The tank grows zero algae and is crystal clear. I feed these fish and all my fish twice daily. On top of that I have zero aggression. The tank stays so clean because of my filtration and my maintenance and zero aggression because I feed my fish properly. These fish are territorial. It's not just there own space and females. It's also resources. Meaning food. Most people feed once a day with fasting days here and there. Because they worry about nitrates and bloat. If you feed the right food you don't have to worry about bloat. The nitrates can be solved with anoxic filtration and for me large once a week water change. I use both. I do 80% water changes weekly on all my tanks. Nitrate never goes over 20ppm. I have a 110 gallon with 46 adult cichlids and zero algae, low nitrates. Another thing to consider and you never hear about this is your lights. The bright lights will cause aggression especially if you have red in your lights. If you have an adjustable light turn the red way down or off. Best thing you can do for aggression is feed your fish twice daily everyday. I recommend Ron's Cichlid Food. It's the best I've found. Zero fillers and don't bloat your fish. If your feeding the off the shelf foods from say petsmart you will bloat your fish feeding twice a day. Even once a day it can bloat your fish. For some reason they bloat victorians the worst.
Sounds like you've got a good system going!
@@CichlidCharmer I like to think I do. I struggled like most in the beginning but like most people I listened to UA-cam on how to go about an aquarium. The amount of not only bad but completely false info on here is ridiculous. It cost people fish and gets people to buy unnecessary products. The 75 gallon I mentioned before hasn't had the glass cleaned in 10 months. Looks like it was cleaned this morning. No chemicals, snails, shrimp, plecko, ect... all I do is water change and vacuum 100% of the substrate weekly and clean the filters when needed. Vacuuming the substrate and not using a deep substrate is crucial. Bad things happen in deep substrate. UA-cam will tell you the opposite. It needs to be oxygenated all the way to the bottom. If not it will go Anaerobic and can also ferment. Anaerobic conditions in hit substrate don't convert nitrate to nitrogen. It covers nitrate to nitrite and then to ammonia. This is why people can't get rid of algae. There substrate is literally a food factory for it.
I always enjoy SG cichlids comments.
Ron's Cichlid food is $999.00 an oz???!!! On Amazon?? That's crazy!
@@daddykiller5835 are you sure?
Hi Dave, you have a great looking tank. I have a 70 gallon and going to upgrade 150 gallon soon. I would like to ask you, what is your aquarium dimensions and what type of lightning are you using, also what kind of substrad you have in here ?
That will be an awesome upgrade! My 75 is 48x18x21". My 240 is 96x24x24". The lighting in this video is the Fluval Aquasky. I use the Fluval Sea/Marine on my 240. My substrate for ACs is Caribsea aragonite to keep the ph up high. Please post a pic of tour 75 and then your 150 if you have a chance!
In the African Vicki’s tank I had as soon as I seen any aggression I would rearrange the tank eventually they did give up and more or less you could make it into what you want instead of what they want 😂
Very good information thanks for sharing 💯✌️👍
Thank you for checking it out!
Awesome video! Thanks for sharing. New subscriber here ✌
Awesome, thanks for subscribing!
@@CichlidCharmer ✌✌ Check out my beautiful aquarium fish videos when you get the chance. Thanks
What type/model black paint is on the back of your aquarium in the video? Would you reccomend Vantablack?
It’s actually window tinting. I did a really poor job on it too. You have to use a lot of soapy water when applying it. A LOT.
@@CichlidCharmerKevin w/ kaveman aquatics reccomends painting the back black. Have you heard of that? You're window tinting idea sounds better tho.
@@stevelopynski yes. I painted my 75. It took about four coats and took a lot longer than the vinyl took. Plus if you change your mind, you just peel it off!
@@CichlidCharmer how many peacocks and haps do you reccomend for a 75 gallon?
Also, Have you heard of anyone successful combining discus with peacocks? Very unusual i know!
@@stevelopynski check this out: Do YOU Have TOO MANY? | Stocking Guide
ua-cam.com/video/r2rlEfM39x4/v-deo.html
I haven’t heard of anyone doing that, but if the peacocks didn’t outright kill them, I think they would be starved and stressed and eventually die. Plus they need very acidic water, the opposite of Africans. I wouldn’t do it.
Great Info!!!
How many american cichlids, 6"to 8", could I stock in a 75 gal?
I personally wouldn’t go larger than 6”, and they would need to be peaceful or I would just keep one or a mating pair of aggressive ones. Not enough room to get away from a crazed American. If I had a Salvini for instance, only one fish. Also keep in mind the height of the fish anal fin to dorsal.
I'm starting a new 75. I have 9 3 to 4 inch fish in my cart. There no fish in it yet. Is it a good idea to introduce them all at once?
Hi there. If you add nine all at once, the only problem I see is that you will probably crash your cycle unless you add enough seeded filter media. You will need to add some bacteria in a bottle, which might keep your tank cycled without the extra filter media, but either way, check your ammonia level every day for several days. Any sign of ammonia and dose Seachem Prime for ammonia. Does that make sense?
Sweet. I did the upgrades you did a video on the fx4. I also have safe start, prime, and microbacter start xlf?
I will add 1 fish and a pleco for about 10 days before my shipment of fish come. Thanks
@@prockfisherman8661 okay. I would still do the things I suggested
@CichlidCharmer I can still order less I suppose. With shipping so expensive I thought id fit as man as I could.lol but maby I'll go with 5.
Great video! Super informative, I don't like jerk fish neither 🤪
I change it bi monthly for 12 Cichlids. High powered filter that can handle twice the current tank capacity of 300L.
With heavy biological media and bio balls filled with media in tank.
Just the thought makes me feel all fuzzy inside 😂. Sounds awesome
@@CichlidCharmer Not, When you have a limited supply of good fresh water.
For some Cichlids, like bichardi, it doesn't seem to work out well though. Ammonia, and nitrite levels are in control except for occasional spike in nitrate.
beautiful tank!!!
Thank you so much!
Hi, I have a 5 x 2 x 2.5 ft tank. I am going for mbuna cichlids. May I ask, what will be your recommend amount to stock them?
That should be a cool tank! I really don't have any experience with mbuna, except for Ray, my solo yellow lab in with my peas and haps. I am sure it's a pretty high number, but I can't say for sure.
I've always tried to stick to one inch of fish per gallon and it has always worked well for me. Obviously you have to take into consideration their full size growth but I have a heavily planted tank currently so I overstocked mine beyond my typical standard
Eyo 12 gallon tank 1 male kakadu cichilid and 3 female kakadu cichilid it is ok?
I am not familiar with the kakadu cichlid, unfortunately
Ok thanks
For a 75 gal full grow peacocks I wouldnt go over 20-25 I currently have 25 in my 100 gal
You didn't mention anything about what usually works better (probably like your tank) which is an all-male tank with different color variations and species. Have more of the same fish or females even can make a tank more aggressive.
The title of the video eliminates the option of females in the tank. I have spoken about conspecific aggression in my videos, but I don’t remember if I did in this one. I’ve done other videos that deal with aggression that cover much more than this video does.
@@CichlidCharmer yeah not sure how I missed that haha
If I have a 75 inch with 3 3inch African cichlids how can I add three more that are only 1.5 inches
1.5 inches is pretty small... You could put them in a grow out tank until they are 2.5 to 3" and then add them to the other guys' tank. If it were me however, I would just add them to the tank now, and watch them very frequently. If there is aggression then take them out. Sometimes doing the add during a water change helps, but I've had success without doing one. Make sure to feed them during the addition.
Watch closely when putting them back sometimes you can't or other higharchy will kill them.
Always watching....
Thx ❤
Welcome 🙏
How bout cichlids can go in a 55gallon aquarium
Zero peacocks or haps in a 55 unless it’s just a growout tank for juvies. They need more room than that size tank can offer. I do have a more recent updated video about stocking these fish if you go to my channel page.
What name of video
@@305chevyboysp6 HOW MANY African Cichlids Should You Have in YOUR TANK? | Stocking Guide
ua-cam.com/video/r2rlEfM39x4/v-deo.html
Beautiful fishes, but the look is not everything. I think it's not natural to have a tank with only male fishes. But that's only my opinion.
I appreciate you sharing your opinion here. Thank you!
I got my cichlids in a 150 gal and I still had a couple of them get killed.
That is sad. They can definitely be killers. That's why it is so great when you get a good mix, but things can still go south. I hope they're doing well now!
@@CichlidCharmer since then I put aumbee in there green terror golden palm, and others African cichlids. Plus they have been breeding in the 150gal too. Some fry have been coming out in the past few months. Umber does not eat the fry . I feed pellets and beef hearts and krill.
@@miltonemahan6276 wow quite an unusual mix! Be careful, that green terror could RIP those ACs apart. Also the beef heart tends to give ACs Malawi bloat. You should post a pic of your 150 here!
@@CichlidCharmer the green terror is a very slow grower. The umbee is female. What I need to do is be careful of not putting my small 4inch male dovii in the 150 gal .
what do you feed them??
I will have a video on that soon. A variety of northfin pellets mostly, with some zucchini and frozen krill as occasional trests.
All male cichlids tanks are cichlid's nightmare, a kind of concentration tank only made for human eyes!
Thanks for the comment. Do you mean that you think it is bad to try to keep them?
@@CichlidCharmer Male only tanks are not a good idea to my opinion. Keep 3 or 4 couples or trios, only, and let them have sex and breed. It's much more fun for them, but also for us.
@@constantinyanicostas4664 I can definitely see where that would be more fun for them, lol
All my males literally started fighting. my water is consistently at 76-78 degrees. It started out of NOWHERE. I've literally had to 2 out because they take the tail off off of all my others. I put the good ones back but I've got w EVIL cichlids on my tank. I think they started fighting themselves then started going after All the others because they were just there as well. I'm actually beyond annoyed. I'll never own African cichlids again. Worst fish I've ever owned. I'd rather have a tank of guppies then go through this BS again.
Sorry to hear about your horrible experience with the Africans. In many situations they just don’t make good aquarium fish. There is plenty of room to swim away from nut jobs in Lake Malawi. Not so in an aquarium
That sucks mate. Sometimes it just doesn't work. I've kept some of the most aggressive and docile/dwarf species together and as long as I broke line of sight well, over filtered (per usual) & added enough fish at a time being the key for my 55g/75. 15-20 smaller mbuna or as a grower tank has always worked fine with the exception of the dom male that won't accept he's won. Nothing beats a chill alpha, it's a God send, you can get away with anything. But overstocking for aggression mitigation is sometimes the only way to go with a 55-75g. Some fish just have to go, I've had a lab that had no chill, yet Johannis, Jenyis, Auratus, Zebras, Hongis, Cobalts, Labs, Demasoni, Acei, all kinds of random stuff my friend didn't end up keeping.This was a dozen yrs or so ago, some of these fish were exotic for their time, so I did whatever I could, & they even made it through Katrina. I'll also freely admit had the alpha in this situation been another fish, I might not have been able to keep such a setup for X years in a 55g, it truly depends. Always had higher water temps as well, as again back then a Hongi, Demasoni etc weren't common or cheap. Chance favors the prepared, at a moment's notice w/ a nursery/fry tank of screen set up, change of decor, addition of new contenders of at least equal size. If $ is an issue I've successfully used schools of tiger barbs as a kid (6-9 small schooling) anything can theoretically work, but do your research. I'd do this to hold me down long enough to get the community size high enough without males killing females too young to produce, name it. Definitely stay away from all Cichlids for that matter if you're not willing to manage the conditions for success though. Ideally this could and should have been preventable, (larger more docile "new alpha" sometimes works, sometimes those fish will simply not live together without 15 others interrupting that blood fued. The signs are always there though, even as a child I knew when things were getting out of hand. Hope you try again sometime with some more tame breeds, maybe another 100lb of stone, & perhaps more fish that can hold their own. Nothing beats paying for your next 125g, etc with fry over the yrs from your LFS. Or shrimp apparently...God bless.
@@CichlidCharmer75-90% user error with the amount of knowledge available these days. Dial up kid, snobby forum types, Labs were exotic, had it not been for breeding Convicts I'd had gone a long time thinking only salt was the way to go. No way, despite the advances since Ive been away a decade, coral is as coral does man. But one day perhaps. Huge market opportunity in my area actually but at my age - Capital after damn govt policies man, never again. Subbed.