I really appreciate all of the time, effort, and skill that went into this video. . . Really something to be proud of, for everyone involved. Thank you very much for providing such thorough information for free. . . This channel is a goldmine of information, and I hope that every single person involved with the production of these videos knows how appreciated their work is. Thank you all so much.
This is a master class in sewing techniques! I've been using my Sailrite machine for years, but still picked up many tips and techniques (e.g. as you sew on binding, focus on the exit point of the binder attachment not the front). I love Eric's "stream of consciousness" commentary and how he explains the WHY of what he's doing at the moment. I watched all 4+ hours of the video! Best regards from Key West, Capt. Blackheart Charlie
I am replacing a dodger that is falling apart. I replaced the windows a couple of years ago - scared to death - as my first boat project. Man was that challenging! I bought new material from you about 4 years ago. Ok. Wish me luck! Between your videos and having a dodger to use as a pattern I hope I can pull this off. The dodger he has now has more leather trim and extra canvas for strength. I haven’t checked yet but I hope you have something similar to what he has. The windows is what makes me nervous!
Having done some hack sewing on heavy materials, I have a great appreciation for this video. Thank you! Looking forward to my next project hopefully with a new sailrite sewing machine.
Thank you for the video (and so many others), this is a huge undertaking! I have to say, I now have a better appreciation why a canvas sprayhood is so expensive!
Thank you so much for your kind words! I'm glad the video helped you understand the value of a canvas sprayhood. It's always great to hear that my content is appreciated.
Another question. I have my window installed, tails and zippered sleeves done as well. I'm about to start joining all the panels together, but as I mentioned in a previous question. I want a zippered roll up window. Ive got to believe that installing the roll up window would be easier to do while I still have the panels NOT stitched together. Less material to fight with the machine Could I jump to finishing the window then do the steps for the roll up part, then jump back to joining the panels????
On a Sailwind 1260 we had some clears for weather that were basically just single panels. snaps along side the helm area and above to the hard dodger. Even though they were brand new, two of the snaps on one side failed, broke, tore out... It was obvious that if the snaps at the corners failed we'd have to endure a lot of heavy weather unprotected (the total trip was 7500nm, including crossing the north Pacific. We saw a lot of weather.) My first thoughts were to have a snap kit on board or double up some of the snaps in critical places, so if one failed there'd be one next to it that wouldn't have to be used except as a back up. I'm interested in what Sailrite recommends. (And I kind of hate snaps, well my thumbs hate them, but I can't think of a better solution.) And if I didn't know Sailrite I'd think, "Com'on only specialists can make dodgers." But my dock mates following the instructions made an absolutely beautiful dodger that completely encloses their cockpit.
I am not sure how your snap failed, but usually, if they do fail, it is because they pull out of the fabric assembly they are secured into. If that is the case the main issue is usually not enough fasteners for the amount of tension they are under, not spaced close enough together. Or the fabric thickness was less than three layers. It is often the case that the fabric assembly is not thick enough, I try to install a snap in three or more layers of fabric when possible. If the snap fails, because it does not stay snapped consider using "Twist Locks" or "Lift-The-Dot" or "Loxx" fasteners. Let me know if you have more questions.
Thank you. My boat is 20 years old and apparently so is my dodger. No snap failures at all. (They must have followed your standards). I prefer the Twist locks.... but I also don't like pelican clips, etc... But I've also learned that there is usually a good reason for anything on a sailboat. I think those broken snaps: one pulled through the fabric and the other the metal 'seat' on the gelcoat just broke. (I've seen snaps from WWII that were still good.) @@SailriteDIY
Thank you so much for this video! Is there a reason to install the vinyl window before sewing the top and front part together? It seems like it would be more manageable to put the dodger together before attaching the window. Thank you!
We had great luck with your bimini frame kit. We just ordered your dodger frame for our Bayfield 29. Is it possible to order your dodger skin kit with the Sailrite Sunbrella Seamark Hemlock Tweed? What type of window material is included in your kit?
I'm studying this video in preparation for complete replacement of my dodger/bimini. Is there a practical reason to use two zippers, each one joining in the middle for the pocket, as opposed to one continuous zipper (in my case would be 80" across)?
Typically it is easier to install the dodger with two zippers, one on port and one on starboard. If trying to start the zipper from the side, where the dodger is tensioned very tightly, it may be very difficult to start the zipper. It is much easier to start it from the dead center. So... two zippers are recommended.
@@SailriteDIY Ahh, I get that. Thank you so much for making this possible, using all sailrite's instructional videos and materials, and an occasional question. You guys rock!
Sailrite has a full skin kit for this project at this link: www.sailrite.com/2-Bow-Dodger-Skin-Kit-Standard-Sunbrella-Fabric It includes the fabric required and clear vinyl window materail.
I patterned a bimini this past summer and the strapping tape adhesive left a horrible sticky mess on the stainless tubing. Going to try painters tape next time. Strapping tape in hot climates does not work well
Thanks again for annother great video!! I have now done a couple of projects using acrylic and basting tape and found that the basting tape tends to polute the needle and - worse - the hook. When there is glue polution on the hook my thread (Profilen) keeps breaking and I have to stop sewing, lift the machine and get the glue of the hook. Is there a trick to prevent this polution of hook and needle. I have tried oiling both but this is only a short term solution.
I will use McLube on the hook and needle. It cleans the residue off easily and also helps to reduce the build up, so you do not have to clean them are regularly as you would. Here is a link: www.sailrite.com/McLube-Sailkote-8oz
It is used to help water flow off the edge of the top. The tail is also used to sew on zippers for extension panels and enclosure curtains, if required.
just got all my materials and made my patterns, quick question....at 2 hours in you are putting on the bias binding tape. 1. to give the thread more stuff to graband help keep it all togetherm but also 2. to make for a more finished look. Could you overlap the binding tape over the edge of the clear glass . Inother words actually open up the small flap on the binding tape and tuck under the clear glass. Such that you don't see the cut edge of the glass. Or am I overthinking and just adding more potential frustration?
That would be very difficult, since the edge of the binding is so small. I would not attempt that for all the tea in China. Well.... may all the tea in China.
@@SailriteDIY ok so i'd just be creating frustration, got it.. :) I'm trying to piece all the videos together since i want to add a rollup window and a zipper for a fly attachment. trying to make sure I do everything in the proper order... to make life as easy as possible.
Great video as always. I'm waiting for material to arrive for my project, but I have done all the patterning and I will share my experience. Using the strapping tape (from Sailrite) on the bows and fiberglass caused problems for me. I am doing this work while living on the boat and just the tensioning of the bows and the patterning took me close to a week to complete including an attached bimini. It is likely due to heat and UV, but the strapping tape is an absolute nightmare to remove from the coaming and the bows. My suggestion would be to use blue painters tape first, put the strapping tape on that and then the basting tape on that. I know it sounds like a complicated process, but the basting tape does not stick to the blue tape but you need something to keep strapping tape from making a total mess when trying to remove it. Now all I need is a good solution for removing Sailrite strapping tape from stainless bows and fiberglass coaming... Any hints?
To tension the bows so that the dodger will stretch out well, I had to make a long "luggage strap" from a lengthy piece of webbing using an actual luggage strap's hardware. Strapping tape residue is pretty difficult to remove, but try acetone (nail polish remover) if it gives you a hard time.
The Stainless Steel tubing frame's bows can be cut down in size for shorting. The frame is slightly flexible, if you pull on the bottom of the tubing legs you can move them in or out from the original mounting position by as much as 3 inches, but no more than that.
@@SailriteDIY oh oops, those time stamps were incorrect that should have been. 3:05:05 (extra one inch for tubing) vs the zipper placement for the other pocket around l 3:09:10 ... when the template was made for the aft tube was it just b/c it was marked at the furthest aft part of the tube? vs the fwd pocket being marked on the top of the tube? It was a little hard to tell where on the tube it was being marked.
@@kenj86734 We do not want the forward bow to possibility distort the shape of the dodger top by fitting in a tightly made pocket. Rather we want the forward bow to be pushed tightly up against the dodger top, without the possibility of a pocket also being drawn up tight. If it were, it may create a hard spot in the top along the stitch where the forward pocket's zipper was sewn to the top. So, that is why we back it off 1 inch to accommodate for the diameter of the tubing so it, the pocket, will not be super tight. However, for the rear bow we want that tubing to fit snuggly into the rear pocket with no slack in the pocket to give the dodger a distinctive tight fit along that edge. So, we lay the pocket flat without adding extra space for the tubing in the rear pocket.
I am in the process of making this "kit" with my wife. I don't care for your videos. There is a lot of repetition on how to drill holes and bed screws. Lots of voice over corrections. The kit comes with no written illustrated instructions. You talk about stuff assuming we know what and where tails and pockets go. Lots of advertising for tools and gadgets that we need for the dodger construction, but are not included in the kit. I thought you would never mention drill stops instead of using masking tape. I got your kits after getting a quote of $5400.00 for a dodger and frame from a pro. Worth it, I'm realizing now that I've watched 4 hours of instruction 5 times!
A larger neck would be helpful, but we did get the job done with this Sailrite Ultrafeed LSZ-1. If you need a larger arm sewing machine for canvas consider this machine: www.sailrite.com/Sailrite-Fabricator-Sewing-Machine-in-Power-Stand-with-Workhorse-Servo-Motor
I want to thank you once again for these amazing tutorials! I already made a bimini using your other tutorial and now I will attempt a dodger. One question came up: on most other sprayhoods I've seen the window extends all the ways to the sides of the forward panel (example: www.tecsew.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/IMG_5527-e1601898471525.jpg.webp) and yours doesn't. Is there any specific reason for this function-wise or is it simply a design choice? Your input would help me decide how to make my window. Thanks!
Thanks for your kind comments! As you know you can make a dodger in a variety of ways. The link you provided is one approach, which would be a good option in my opinion. We do not have a specific video tutorial for doing it that way, but the concepts are similar. If it were my choice I would go with the larger windows, as seen in your link. I hope this helps, let me know if you have more questions.
I really appreciate all of the time, effort, and skill that went into this video. . . Really something to be proud of, for everyone involved. Thank you very much for providing such thorough information for free. . . This channel is a goldmine of information, and I hope that every single person involved with the production of these videos knows how appreciated their work is. Thank you all so much.
We'd like to thank you for your kind words, and for digging our channel like a goldmine!
Probably one of the best "Do-it-Yourself" videos, I have seen. Yes it was long, but it has to be. Great Video
We are so glad that you liked this video!!! Thanks!
This is a master class in sewing techniques! I've been using my Sailrite machine for years, but still picked up many tips and techniques (e.g. as you sew on binding, focus on the exit point of the binder attachment not the front). I love Eric's "stream of consciousness" commentary and how he explains the WHY of what he's doing at the moment. I watched all 4+ hours of the video!
Best regards from Key West,
Capt. Blackheart Charlie
I create myself a job with my sailrite and studying your tutorials!!! Many, many thanks!
These videos and voice overs are so thorough and extremely appreciated!
I am replacing a dodger that is falling apart. I replaced the windows a couple of years ago - scared to death - as my first boat project. Man was that challenging! I bought new material from you about 4 years ago. Ok. Wish me luck! Between your videos and having a dodger to use as a pattern I hope I can pull this off. The dodger he has now has more leather trim and extra canvas for strength. I haven’t checked yet but I hope you have something similar to what he has. The windows is what makes me nervous!
I learn so much from your instructions even though I don't own a boat. Applications can be used elsewhere. Thank you.
We are glad to help! Let us know if you have questions. Thanks!!!
Having done some hack sewing on heavy materials, I have a great appreciation for this video. Thank you! Looking forward to my next project hopefully with a new sailrite sewing machine.
Sailrite sewing machines are the best way to make sure your projects turn out great - and if they don't, you can always blame the machine!
Your videos are so good that you think Hollywood did it. It's so well explained that I think I can do this. Thank you so much
Wow, thanks for the kind comment!
Thank you for the video (and so many others), this is a huge undertaking! I have to say, I now have a better appreciation why a canvas sprayhood is so expensive!
Thank you so much for your kind words! I'm glad the video helped you understand the value of a canvas sprayhood. It's always great to hear that my content is appreciated.
Great video! Nice technique and nice to show us how to do it. Thanks. That's the way to go!
Another question. I have my window installed, tails and zippered sleeves done as well. I'm about to start joining all the panels together, but as I mentioned in a previous question. I want a zippered roll up window. Ive got to believe that installing the roll up window would be easier to do while I still have the panels NOT stitched together. Less material to fight with the machine Could I jump to finishing the window then do the steps for the roll up part, then jump back to joining the panels????
On a Sailwind 1260 we had some clears for weather that were basically just single panels. snaps along side the helm area and above to the hard dodger. Even though they were brand new, two of the snaps on one side failed, broke, tore out... It was obvious that if the snaps at the corners failed we'd have to endure a lot of heavy weather unprotected (the total trip was 7500nm, including crossing the north Pacific. We saw a lot of weather.) My first thoughts were to have a snap kit on board or double up some of the snaps in critical places, so if one failed there'd be one next to it that wouldn't have to be used except as a back up. I'm interested in what Sailrite recommends. (And I kind of hate snaps, well my thumbs hate them, but I can't think of a better solution.)
And if I didn't know Sailrite I'd think, "Com'on only specialists can make dodgers." But my dock mates following the instructions made an absolutely beautiful dodger that completely encloses their cockpit.
I am not sure how your snap failed, but usually, if they do fail, it is because they pull out of the fabric assembly they are secured into. If that is the case the main issue is usually not enough fasteners for the amount of tension they are under, not spaced close enough together. Or the fabric thickness was less than three layers. It is often the case that the fabric assembly is not thick enough, I try to install a snap in three or more layers of fabric when possible. If the snap fails, because it does not stay snapped consider using "Twist Locks" or "Lift-The-Dot" or "Loxx" fasteners. Let me know if you have more questions.
Thank you. My boat is 20 years old and apparently so is my dodger. No snap failures at all. (They must have followed your standards). I prefer the Twist locks.... but I also don't like pelican clips, etc... But I've also learned that there is usually a good reason for anything on a sailboat. I think those broken snaps: one pulled through the fabric and the other the metal 'seat' on the gelcoat just broke. (I've seen snaps from WWII that were still good.) @@SailriteDIY
Thank you so much for this video! Is there a reason to install the vinyl window before sewing the top and front part together? It seems like it would be more manageable to put the dodger together before attaching the window. Thank you!
We had great luck with your bimini frame kit.
We just ordered your dodger frame for our Bayfield 29.
Is it possible to order your dodger skin kit with the Sailrite Sunbrella Seamark Hemlock Tweed?
What type of window material is included in your kit?
I'm studying this video in preparation for complete replacement of my dodger/bimini. Is there a practical reason to use two zippers, each one joining in the middle for the pocket, as opposed to one continuous zipper (in my case would be 80" across)?
Typically it is easier to install the dodger with two zippers, one on port and one on starboard. If trying to start the zipper from the side, where the dodger is tensioned very tightly, it may be very difficult to start the zipper. It is much easier to start it from the dead center. So... two zippers are recommended.
@@SailriteDIY Ahh, I get that. Thank you so much for making this possible, using all sailrite's instructional videos and materials, and an occasional question. You guys rock!
@@maureenshepard2689 THANKS FOR YOUR LOYAL SUPPORT!!!!
Thanks a lot for the video, learning lots!
Can you tell me please why you don't leave any allowance for tubing on the aft zipper pocket?
We want the fabric to be very tight along the aft side, so we do not add allowance for the tubing on that pocket.
fantastic video. thank you so much for sharing your skills :)
Thank you for your kind words! It means a lot to me that you appreciate my content.
Great video! However, I didn't see how much of fabric and plastic windows can be used for this bimini. Any info on this? Thanks!
Sailrite has a full skin kit for this project at this link: www.sailrite.com/2-Bow-Dodger-Skin-Kit-Standard-Sunbrella-Fabric It includes the fabric required and clear vinyl window materail.
I patterned a bimini this past summer and the strapping tape adhesive left a horrible sticky mess on the stainless tubing. Going to try painters tape next time. Strapping tape in hot climates does not work well
Thanks for sharing your experience! It's always helpful to hear what works and what doesn't in different situations.
Agreed, I had the same problem and I patterned our Bimini in January in Maryland
Thanks again for annother great video!! I have now done a couple of projects using acrylic and basting tape and found that the basting tape tends to polute the needle and - worse - the hook. When there is glue polution on the hook my thread (Profilen) keeps breaking and I have to stop sewing, lift the machine and get the glue of the hook. Is there a trick to prevent this polution of hook and needle. I have tried oiling both but this is only a short term solution.
I will use McLube on the hook and needle. It cleans the residue off easily and also helps to reduce the build up, so you do not have to clean them are regularly as you would. Here is a link: www.sailrite.com/McLube-Sailkote-8oz
@@SailriteDIY Thanks for the reply. I see I can get this product overhere. I will get it and try.
@@windmill10 We ship worldwide, so yes you can get it.
@@SailriteDIY I already ordered from a shop in the Netherlands. Shipping from the US would make it a bit costly.
Will you please remind me what is the purpose of the Tail? I am considering leaving it off. Thank you.
It is used to help water flow off the edge of the top. The tail is also used to sew on zippers for extension panels and enclosure curtains, if required.
just got all my materials and made my patterns, quick question....at 2 hours in you are putting on the bias binding tape. 1. to give the thread more stuff to graband help keep it all togetherm but also 2. to make for a more finished look.
Could you overlap the binding tape over the edge of the clear glass . Inother words actually open up the small flap on the binding tape and tuck under the clear glass. Such that you don't see the cut edge of the glass.
Or am I overthinking and just adding more potential frustration?
That would be very difficult, since the edge of the binding is so small. I would not attempt that for all the tea in China. Well.... may all the tea in China.
@@SailriteDIY ok so i'd just be creating frustration, got it.. :) I'm trying to piece all the videos together since i want to add a rollup window and a zipper for a fly attachment. trying to make sure I do everything in the proper order... to make life as easy as possible.
Priceless
Thanks!
great work! Thanks for shearing
Great video as always. I'm waiting for material to arrive for my project, but I have done all the patterning and I will share my experience. Using the strapping tape (from Sailrite) on the bows and fiberglass caused problems for me. I am doing this work while living on the boat and just the tensioning of the bows and the patterning took me close to a week to complete including an attached bimini. It is likely due to heat and UV, but the strapping tape is an absolute nightmare to remove from the coaming and the bows.
My suggestion would be to use blue painters tape first, put the strapping tape on that and then the basting tape on that. I know it sounds like a complicated process, but the basting tape does not stick to the blue tape but you need something to keep strapping tape from making a total mess when trying to remove it.
Now all I need is a good solution for removing Sailrite strapping tape from stainless bows and fiberglass coaming... Any hints?
nobody believes you
To tension the bows so that the dodger will stretch out well, I had to make a long "luggage strap" from a lengthy piece of webbing using an actual luggage strap's hardware. Strapping tape residue is pretty difficult to remove, but try acetone (nail polish remover) if it gives you a hard time.
Is the top stitch a necessity on that long top panel to front panel seam or just decorative?
That stitch makes it a semi felt flat seam , stronger and more waterproof, not just decorative
How much flex is in the frame for shorting the bow connectors to accommodate a more diagonal line to eliminate the box structure?
The Stainless Steel tubing frame's bows can be cut down in size for shorting. The frame is slightly flexible, if you pull on the bottom of the tubing legs you can move them in or out from the original mounting position by as much as 3 inches, but no more than that.
@@SailriteDIY thank you for that!
Super
why is there room left for the forward tube 3:05 ish in the fwd pocket, but not for the aft tube in the aft pocket 3:08ish?
I looked at 3:05 minutes and at 3:08 minutes, but did not understand what you are asking. Can you help me understand your question better.
@@SailriteDIY oh oops, those time stamps were incorrect that should have been. 3:05:05 (extra one inch for tubing) vs the zipper placement for the other pocket around l 3:09:10 ... when the template was made for the aft tube was it just b/c it was marked at the furthest aft part of the tube? vs the fwd pocket being marked on the top of the tube? It was a little hard to tell where on the tube it was being marked.
@@kenj86734 We do not want the forward bow to possibility distort the shape of the dodger top by fitting in a tightly made pocket. Rather we want the forward bow to be pushed tightly up against the dodger top, without the possibility of a pocket also being drawn up tight. If it were, it may create a hard spot in the top along the stitch where the forward pocket's zipper was sewn to the top. So, that is why we back it off 1 inch to accommodate for the diameter of the tubing so it, the pocket, will not be super tight. However, for the rear bow we want that tubing to fit snuggly into the rear pocket with no slack in the pocket to give the dodger a distinctive tight fit along that edge. So, we lay the pocket flat without adding extra space for the tubing in the rear pocket.
I am going to make a Dodger
I am in the process of making this "kit" with my wife. I don't care for your videos. There is a lot of repetition on how to drill holes and bed screws. Lots of voice over corrections. The kit comes with no written illustrated instructions. You talk about stuff assuming we know what and where tails and pockets go. Lots of advertising for tools and gadgets that we need for the dodger construction, but are not included in the kit. I thought you would never mention drill stops instead of using masking tape. I got your kits after getting a quote of $5400.00 for a dodger and frame from a pro. Worth it, I'm realizing now that I've watched 4 hours of instruction 5 times!
This machine neck is to short for this job.
A larger neck would be helpful, but we did get the job done with this Sailrite Ultrafeed LSZ-1. If you need a larger arm sewing machine for canvas consider this machine: www.sailrite.com/Sailrite-Fabricator-Sewing-Machine-in-Power-Stand-with-Workhorse-Servo-Motor
I want to thank you once again for these amazing tutorials! I already made a bimini using your other tutorial and now I will attempt a dodger.
One question came up: on most other sprayhoods I've seen the window extends all the ways to the sides of the forward panel (example: www.tecsew.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/IMG_5527-e1601898471525.jpg.webp) and yours doesn't. Is there any specific reason for this function-wise or is it simply a design choice? Your input would help me decide how to make my window. Thanks!
Thanks for your kind comments! As you know you can make a dodger in a variety of ways. The link you provided is one approach, which would be a good option in my opinion. We do not have a specific video tutorial for doing it that way, but the concepts are similar. If it were my choice I would go with the larger windows, as seen in your link. I hope this helps, let me know if you have more questions.