To anyone watching this, get the job done by someone like this man. I took my timing belt to be changed, and they didn’t even do it, said they did and charged me. I took it back and they did it, but left four belt cover bolts out. So who knows what kind of job they have done.please pay the extra few pounds and go to a reputable garage. I saved £50 but wish I had not.
I found this video after my mechanic (who didn’t change timing belts) told me that the water pump leaking was the cause of the expansion bottle level dropping. I called Georgi at GB autoworks and within a few days the van was in his workshop and getting a new water pump and timing belt. It’s been two weeks since the work was carried out and everything is fine. Georgi is a really genuine, knowledgeable and nice guy who is passionate about his work and if I have any other problems in the future then I know where I’ll be taking the van. Thanks Georgi.
Mein jumper hatte das gleiche Problem. Der Motor verträgt keinen Frost . Unter 3Grad minus löst sich das Schaufelrad von der Welle . Citroën Kulanz dennoch 2 Tage und 250 km abschleppen . Unvorstellbarer Fehler.
Da! Ne-ai explicat de ne-ai rupt!... In loc sa arăti cum se pune la punct, cum aliniezi cureaua si mai ales cum procedezi la pinionul de la arbore, ne arati cu sa strangem cu dinamometrica... Asta era acum, daca nu strangi cu dinamometrica, n-o sa mearga motorul... Daca tot faci un video...
mulțumim pentru că ne împărtășești cunoștințele tale. Părerea mea dacă îmi permiți. rezumă-te la limba maternă pentru explicații mai precise și cuvinte mai potrivite în a descrie ce și cum faci și lasă un tiraj în engleză la fel de clar și concis pentru publicul larg care îți poate viziona filmele. totul e ok în opinia mea și îți doresc mult succes. am un peugeot 508 2.0 și asta m-a adus la filmul tău. o să fac distribuția și eu cândva probabil într-un an sau 2. ce tester folosești?... și cât de precis este având în vedere ca peugeot/Citroen nu sunt citite cum trebuie de către foarte multe diagnoza multi-marcă (observat din proprie experiență). cu diagnoza Bosch care costa peste 5000 de euro pe an la service multimarcă (in Germania) mi-au dat peste cap sistemele și pana nu a trecut vreo ora după citire nu și-a revenit după mai multe repornire și deconectare a bateriei.. dintr-o eroare la adblue mi-a adăugat vreo alte 4 toate cu icon rosu în bord însoțite de 🛑 stop. Și-a revenit de la sine. cu 607 in trecut în România la fel. mașina perfect funcțională fără probleme, la simpla citire de erori a pus-o cu botul pe labe. n-a mai pornit nici cu popă mai mult de o oră. și-a revenit la fel de la sine după ce am lăsat-o în pace alte 30/40 de minute. niciodată nu s-a întâmplat ceva la Peugeot la reprezentanță în schimb la citire
there's a couple of special tools you could have also used: one to centralise the bottom pinion Citroën No.(-).0188.AH.and one to lock the flywheel Citroën No.(-).0188.F.
great video. i am looking to buy a relay/boxer and was wondering on the reliability of the engines (my budget will see me restricted to a 100k mileage vehicle) are the timing on these vehicles classed as a "wet belt" i thought not, but have heard several people refer to them as such and that they can cause contamination issues with the oil galleries on the bottom end. my anxiety is a killer when buying cars 😅😅
One of our customers has already passed over 80k miles since we replaced the timing belt kit and water pump on Gates. Peugeot/Citroën are dry belt , Ford Transit 2.0 Ecoblue is wet belt and has a belt on the oil pump as well we did video how to remove stuck injectors, unfortunately we did not capture, the job with the belt. I will say mostly personal preference, but with Peugeot and Citroën we never have had injector complaining.
Great video, thanks a lot for taking the time to make this! Question guys, following the procedure from Haynes manual and taking advices from this video I’ve got stuck with my DW10 and would appreciate any advice and experience that you could share before I move forward. Both, camshaft and crankshaft were secured with safety pins, old belt teeth position marked (on the belt, on camshaft sprocket and crank sprocket). New water pump installed, new roller and tensioner pulley installed. New timing belt fitted with the same marks at the same position on sprockets like the old belt, crankshaft checked and right position confirmed with the key on the top side of sprocket. Here is the problem, once I installed tensioner pulley, I did pre tight the bolt that holds tensioner pulley connected to the engine block, naturally tensioner pulley already gave some tension to the belt but I’m not sure if this tension was enough or at this stage I had to pre tension tensioner pulley with hex key before doing 4 crankshaft rotations. In Haynes manual it just states that you have to pre tight the bolt to 15Nm but it doesn’t clarify if that bolt holds the tensioner pulley connected to the engine block or you have to take pre tension for these 15Nm before doing 4 crankshaft rotations. For me the belt was looking perfectly seated in place. I did 4 crankshaft rotations and I was able to lock crankshaft and camshaft again. My marks during these rotations never matched again, they were always off. I removed locks and continued for 6 more rotations (10 total rotations) and still not able to match belt and sprocket marks. I’m thinking that new timing belt slip the teeth or so during my rotations and that I lost camshaft and crankshaft synchronised. Am I correct? Is there any way I could check these stuff at this stage? At some online sources I found that marks are missing due to number of teeth on sprockets vs number of teeth on the belt and eventually they will match again after so many crankshaft rotations. Can I continue with crankshaft rotations to make sure they match again or I could create some problem with more rotations? Thanks a lot for your suggestions.
@peetrovicdj our advice is to put the engine on marks again to make sure everything is in the right position. The tensioner must be adjusted on the mark by hex key ,tight the tensioner by the torque specs, and after that, do the rotation.
Thanks a lot for your reply. Does it mean I can remove the belt at this stage put individually camshaft first in lock position by rotating it, then put crankshaft in lock position and follow your steps? Out of curiosity if I do more rotations trying to chance marks to match again is that going to make any problems to the engine? Cheers!!
@peetrovicdj you can remove the belt, but you must be careful when you rotate the engine to not damage the valves. If you meet the piston and the valves, you gonna feel the resistance, and you have to sort by yourself which way to go to timing the engine on marks.
Hi , you forgot to say how many nw torque on the cambelt tensioner 🙂 , I found something on google like 57 Nm…. But I’m not 100% sure if corect or no .
Thank you for the video my friend, I will contact with you by email for ask you some things about this engine . I have the same van with the same engine.
To anyone watching this, get the job done by someone like this man. I took my timing belt to be changed, and they didn’t even do it, said they did and charged me. I took it back and they did it, but left four belt cover bolts out. So who knows what kind of job they have done.please pay the extra few pounds and go to a reputable garage. I saved £50 but wish I had not.
I found this video after my mechanic (who didn’t change timing belts) told me that the water pump leaking was the cause of the expansion bottle level dropping. I called Georgi at GB autoworks and within a few days the van was in his workshop and getting a new water pump and timing belt. It’s been two weeks since the work was carried out and everything is fine. Georgi is a really genuine, knowledgeable and nice guy who is passionate about his work and if I have any other problems in the future then I know where I’ll be taking the van. Thanks Georgi.
Thank you very much for your feedback. Do not hesitate to contact us whenever you need.
Proper mechanic at work, nothing being left to chance. Wish you were near me. thanks for the video.
very good work and thourough well done
Really nice video with a lot of explanation 😊 Keep up the good work GB!!!!
We are really happy when we can help and teach our audience.
By me the same at 101000 KM Great work, thanks❤
Mein jumper hatte das gleiche Problem. Der Motor verträgt keinen Frost . Unter 3Grad minus löst sich das Schaufelrad von der Welle . Citroën Kulanz dennoch 2 Tage und 250 km abschleppen . Unvorstellbarer Fehler.
One question if you have a plastic oil pan , how do you support engine to remove top mount
Hello.
You can use Engine Support Beam.
Da!
Ne-ai explicat de ne-ai rupt!...
In loc sa arăti cum se pune la punct, cum aliniezi cureaua si mai ales cum procedezi la pinionul de la arbore, ne arati cu sa strangem cu dinamometrica... Asta era acum, daca nu strangi cu dinamometrica, n-o sa mearga motorul...
Daca tot faci un video...
Hello, if you watch carefully I gonna see the pin on the top sprocket and the pin on the bottom.
mulțumim pentru că ne împărtășești cunoștințele tale. Părerea mea dacă îmi permiți. rezumă-te la limba maternă pentru explicații mai precise și cuvinte mai potrivite în a descrie ce și cum faci și lasă un tiraj în engleză la fel de clar și concis pentru publicul larg care îți poate viziona filmele.
totul e ok în opinia mea și îți doresc mult succes. am un peugeot 508 2.0 și asta m-a adus la filmul tău. o să fac distribuția și eu cândva probabil într-un an sau 2.
ce tester folosești?... și cât de precis este având în vedere ca peugeot/Citroen nu sunt citite cum trebuie de către foarte multe diagnoza multi-marcă (observat din proprie experiență). cu diagnoza Bosch care costa peste 5000 de euro pe an la service multimarcă (in Germania) mi-au dat peste cap sistemele și pana nu a trecut vreo ora după citire nu și-a revenit după mai multe repornire și deconectare a bateriei.. dintr-o eroare la adblue mi-a adăugat vreo alte 4 toate cu icon rosu în bord însoțite de 🛑 stop. Și-a revenit de la sine.
cu 607 in trecut în România la fel. mașina perfect funcțională fără probleme, la simpla citire de erori a pus-o cu botul pe labe. n-a mai pornit nici cu popă mai mult de o oră. și-a revenit la fel de la sine după ce am lăsat-o în pace alte 30/40 de minute.
niciodată nu s-a întâmplat ceva la Peugeot la reprezentanță în schimb la citire
there's a couple of special tools you could have also used: one to centralise the bottom pinion Citroën No.(-).0188.AH.and one to lock the flywheel Citroën No.(-).0188.F.
Thank you very much. It's really helpful.
great video. i am looking to buy a relay/boxer and was wondering on the reliability of the engines (my budget will see me restricted to a 100k mileage vehicle) are the timing on these vehicles classed as a "wet belt" i thought not, but have heard several people refer to them as such and that they can cause contamination issues with the oil galleries on the bottom end. my anxiety is a killer when buying cars 😅😅
One of our customers has already passed over 80k miles since we replaced the timing belt kit and water pump on Gates.
Peugeot/Citroën are dry belt , Ford Transit 2.0 Ecoblue is wet belt and has a belt on the oil pump as well we did video how to remove stuck injectors, unfortunately we did not capture, the job with the belt.
I will say mostly personal preference, but with Peugeot and Citroën we never have had injector complaining.
Thank you so much for taking the time to reply! This has settled my nerves a little on my van choice 😊
Great video, thanks a lot for taking the time to make this! Question guys, following the procedure from Haynes manual and taking advices from this video I’ve got stuck with my DW10 and would appreciate any advice and experience that you could share before I move forward.
Both, camshaft and crankshaft were secured with safety pins, old belt teeth position marked (on the belt, on camshaft sprocket and crank sprocket). New water pump installed, new roller and tensioner pulley installed. New timing belt fitted with the same marks at the same position on sprockets like the old belt, crankshaft checked and right position confirmed with the key on the top side of sprocket.
Here is the problem, once I installed tensioner pulley, I did pre tight the bolt that holds tensioner pulley connected to the engine block, naturally tensioner pulley already gave some tension to the belt but I’m not sure if this tension was enough or at this stage I had to pre tension tensioner pulley with hex key before doing 4 crankshaft rotations. In Haynes manual it just states that you have to pre tight the bolt to 15Nm but it doesn’t clarify if that bolt holds the tensioner pulley connected to the engine block or you have to take pre tension for these 15Nm before doing 4 crankshaft rotations. For me the belt was looking perfectly seated in place.
I did 4 crankshaft rotations and I was able to lock crankshaft and camshaft again. My marks during these rotations never matched again, they were always off. I removed locks and continued for 6 more rotations (10 total rotations) and still not able to match belt and sprocket marks.
I’m thinking that new timing belt slip the teeth or so during my rotations and that I lost camshaft and crankshaft synchronised. Am I correct? Is there any way I could check these stuff at this stage?
At some online sources I found that marks are missing due to number of teeth on sprockets vs number of teeth on the belt and eventually they will match again after so many crankshaft rotations. Can I continue with crankshaft rotations to make sure they match again or I could create some problem with more rotations?
Thanks a lot for your suggestions.
@peetrovicdj our advice is to put the engine on marks again to make sure everything is in the right position.
The tensioner must be adjusted on the mark by hex key ,tight the tensioner by the torque specs, and after that, do the rotation.
Thanks a lot for your reply. Does it mean I can remove the belt at this stage put individually camshaft first in lock position by rotating it, then put crankshaft in lock position and follow your steps? Out of curiosity if I do more rotations trying to chance marks to match again is that going to make any problems to the engine? Cheers!!
@peetrovicdj you can remove the belt, but you must be careful when you rotate the engine to not damage the valves. If you meet the piston and the valves, you gonna feel the resistance, and you have to sort by yourself which way to go to timing the engine on marks.
@@gbautoworks5596thanks guys, will proceed, keep you posted.. Cheers!
@@peetrovicdjHi, how did you get on, did you fix the problem?
Why does PSA always insist on using timing belts instead of using maintenance-free timing chains?
We have to ask the engineers, but mostly because of all new regulations about emissions and ect.
Hi , you forgot to say how many nw torque on the cambelt tensioner 🙂 , I found something on google like 57 Nm…. But I’m not 100% sure if corect or no .
Torque settings
Timing belt tensioner pulley 25 (Nm)
Timing belt idler pulley 60 (Nm)
@@gbautoworks5596 many thanks
Thank you for the video my friend, I will contact with you by email for ask you some things about this engine . I have the same van with the same engine.
I have same engine with 550 km in it I thought they had a chain not a belt
Chain aswell but is inside engine , if you pull out the oil cap you will see the chain 👍
You don't have to change the chain. Should last a car life. (But mine snapped at 340k km😢)
@erikoosterveld2536 the belt or the chain?
@@Ian-ij4of the chain. They told me it should last the life of the car.
How much money to do this
You can contact our team Monday to Friday and they gonna answer all of yours requirements and questions.
how much you got 😁
What a waste of a video, you didn't show how to remove or replace the pump or woodrug key or timing belt just tightening nuts